I figure that if you aren't moving out by the time it gets that
noticeable you may not make it out no matter what it is that's
burning. With all the plastics and other man-made chemicals in
todays houses, flashover happens a whole lot quicker then it used
to even 40 years ago. Once the
If I had it to do over again, I would put styrofoam under but my garage
was built in 1985 and the floor is still solid so I don't think I want
to break it up and start over. My moisture problem is only a short term
issue a couple of times a year so not too bad. Just annoying when it
occurs. A
When I was typing that, I thought to myself, someone is going to raise
the definition of abuse. I guess I cannot argue but sometimes it is
difficult to prevent. We leave my mother's car in the garage at the lake
in the fall and it stays inside until mid May. Unfortunately, the spring
tends to
Give Fluid Film a try for the table saw deck and jointer. Short of heating the
garage I'm not sure how to remove the moisture- well you could run some de-
humidifiers!
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 16, 2012, at 5:26 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
When I was typing that, I thought
I would say to put a vapor barrier on the floor (just a big sheet of Visqueen)
and as for your tools, Cosmoline. Not a lot you can do for the airborne
moisture as far as the machined surfaces go without encapsulating them in
something, but as for the car I would put a big honking piece of
2:27 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars
When I was typing that, I thought to myself, someone is going to raise the
definition of abuse. I guess I cannot argue but sometimes it is difficult to
prevent. We leave my mother's car in the garage at the lake in the fall
Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
Give Fluid Film a try for the table saw deck and jointer. Short of
heating the garage I'm not sure how to remove the moisture- well you
could run some de- humidifiers!
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 16, 2012, at 5:26 PM, Randy Bennell
Electricity cost will not be cheap. You could drill a hole to the outside of
the garage and attach a hose to the dehumidifier which can be routed through
the hole.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 16, 2012, at 5:49 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
I have tried to avoid using oily things as I would have to clean them in
the spring before I started cutting wood again. I have used some of the
commercial spray cans touted for the purpose but they are not doing the
job. Cleaners and conditioners sort of things. They work fine in my
basement
The poly might be worth a try.
Randy
On 16/04/2012 4:40 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
I would say to put a vapor barrier on the floor (just a big sheet of Visqueen)
and as for your tools, Cosmoline. Not a lot you can do for the airborne
moisture as far as the machined surfaces go without
Or cover your floor with wooden planks ?
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 16, 2012, at 6:04 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
The poly might be worth a try.
Randy
On 16/04/2012 4:40 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
I would say to put a vapor barrier on the floor (just a big sheet of Visqueen)
and
To follow up on the plastic film idea, I wonder if painting the concrete with
an epoxy sealant would help?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To
Plastic film is cheap and easily removed each season. Painting an existing
concrete floor and getting it to stick is a major undertaking, and I have yet
to do it successfully on two occasions.
All I am thinking about is having a vapor barrier between the floor and the car
- that should be
On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:13:26 -0400 Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
To follow up on the plastic film idea, I wonder if painting the
concrete with an epoxy sealant would help?
Both the plastic film and painting the concrete with an epoxy sealant
will help reduce/stop the transmission of
I doubt it. I don't think the water comes up through the concrete. I
think it condenses on the surface because the concrete is cold and the
air is warmer and humid.
Randy
On 16/04/2012 5:13 PM, Max wrote:
To follow up on the plastic film idea, I wonder if painting the concrete with
an epoxy
Well then put a vapor barrier over the concrete and then cover with warm wood.
Now you are protected from the top and bottom!
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 16, 2012, at 6:33 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
I doubt it. I don't think the water comes up through the concrete. I think it
It seeps, because concrete cracks and water table rises. If you are below
grade, it will seep in the walls and live on the floor. Only way to properly
deal with this, is to heat the space and keep a dehumidifier going in the wet
months.
On Apr 16, 2012, at 3:33 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
I
I have been thinking of this. I do not have indoor storage for
cars, so the ones I am not driving, or the projects to be done
maybe I should park them over a tarp? Would that help at all?
On 4/16/2012 4:40 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
I would say to put a vapor barrier on the floor (just a big
On Apr 16, 2012, at 6:33 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
I doubt it. I don't think the water comes up through the concrete. I think it
condenses on the surface because the concrete is cold and the air is warmer
and humid.
Randy
Moisture definitely migrates upward through
- Original Message -
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars
I doubt it. I don't think the water comes up through the concrete. I think
it condenses on the surface because
Randy wrote:
I doubt it. I don't think the water comes up through the concrete. I think
it condenses on the surface because the concrete is cold and the air is
warmer and humid.
My son stored his motorcycle inside the outbuilding next door over the
winter. He put it in a bike bag that was
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