I did this about 15 years ago with sciroccos. I bought them cheap and parted
out the interiors/power trains. Sold the stuff via the old scirocco mailing
list.
I generally sold things for half the price of junkyards. Some thing I'd ask
for offers one with the proviso that the buyer had to
The biggest headache I'm seeing with parting out older cars is that so many
buyers want "factory-fresh" parts at below bargain basement prices. Worse are
the games that buyers play that range from requesting hundreds of worthless
photos to making false claims about damage.
It's become such a
It says that they’re easily viewed, maybe my eyes are worse than I thought
because I couldn’t find these.
Finding Engine Letter Codes
The code characters which identify an engine can be easily viewed in the engine
compartment. The code, GX for example, is given at the beginning of the engine
And just to be clear, the 1.8 code is PL, and the 2.0 is 9A.
~Holland
On Mar 19, 2016 13:27, "Steven Arguello" wrote:
> It says that they’re easily viewed, maybe my eyes are worse than I thought
> because I couldn’t find these.
>
> Finding Engine Letter Codes
>
> The
And just as an FYI, on a 2.0 block, both knock sensors are mounted on the
side of the block which faces the front of the car. And as I recall, the
leads for both sensors come from the firewall in a small vinyl covered
harness that runs by the rear of the head over the top of the bell housing
(more
The wire you’re touching looks like the O2 signal. In your case it looks like
the shield might have been pulled off and ran to ground. (That’s a guess, could
be like that from the factory) The red and yellowish (sorry, I’m a little color
blind) are the O2 heater. The 2 whites and the lead with
im pretty sure i have 2 knock sensors? im attaching a picture of what i
uncovered from electrical tape. looks like a brown wire covered with black
that goes to top connector from drivers side, its duct taped along i guess
stock loom. i assumed ground at first but wonder if this could be the
As Steve mentioned, the O2 sensor signal wire is shielded, similar to a
coaxial cable. It's basically a regular insulated braided copper wire of
about 20 gauge, with a braided shield covering it.
~Holland
On Mar 19, 2016 12:13, "damac2004" wrote:
> im pretty sure i have
On a typical 1.8 CIS-E the O2 signal wire is shielded and green to an insulated
male spade connector and there are 2 white heater wires into a duplex VW
connector. I’m not sure how big of a deal the knock sensor issue that you’re
going to have is. Your Motronic ECU is going to want 2 knock
Progress! That's awesome! I don't remember the wire colors anymore, but
yes, one of the wires to the O2 sensor is the heater wire. Hopefully, once
you set the timing, it will improve things. However, until you get the O2
sensor hooked up correctly, it isn't going to run right. But at least
you've
sorry i think the egr system attaches to the holes i am talking about. and
i just dumped water down the runners and confirmed that the 2 big holes are
open to the intake runners. so one picture is the euro intake and the
holes are so open you can look and see through. stock manifold isn't
You gotta cap those
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 16, 2016, at 9:51 PM, damac2004 wrote:
>
> sorry i think the egr system attaches to the holes i am talking about. and i
> just dumped water down the runners and confirmed that the 2 big holes are
> open to the intake
Hi,
the round rubber gasket which is immediately below the locking ring of the
transfer pump and surrounding the transfer pump assembly on my 87 gti 16v
is falling apart and swollen.
does anyone know the part number?
I think the Mk4's might use the same gasket... this is the part number that
I'm not following the description too well but any opening in the intake
manifold that allows air to bypass the air meter and fuel distributor is no
good. You able to send any picture?
On Mar 16, 2016 10:56 PM, "damac2004" wrote:
> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i
2 and 3 are a real pita to remove...
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 18, 2016, at 9:33 AM, Larry Velez wrote:
>
> This is local and I have to remove the parts I need myself, so not a lot of
> work for this one person.
>
> Mostly cosmetic stuff, no real engine parts which I
well i capped off one hole with a bolt/washer and the other with a thick
plate and gasket. turned the key once to hear the pump prime and then
tried to start the car and it started right up and idled a bit less than
900 rpm i think.
wow do i feel stupid.
i got various little things to fix
Thanks for the heads up that I am going to have headaches getting the fender
and headliner off.
About today’s buyer’s of partouts, I think we are seeing this across
everything. Today’s buyer has so many more choices for everything they buy
that they no longer have to be respectful, patient
Local guy had a 944 turbo that I'd like the get the torque tube from.
However he hasn't removed it yet and the rear suspension and tranny are still
in too.
That means I'd have to spend ten hours pulling it from the car. No thanks!
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 18, 2016, at 3:01 PM, Larry
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