Start here Glen.
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I replaced the fork seals when I got the bike and had the entire front
end appart. Dennis H indicated it is an alignment problem and will
post an alignment procedure.
On Jan 14, 10:44 am, "Dick MacInnes" wrote:
> Normal on cambered roads, but may have an alignment problem
>
> Dick MacInnes
--
Yes. Reclean. My mistake. It was pointed out to me and went back and measured
the exact sizes.
Correct alignment ? I'll prepare a list of needed tools. Time consuming and
sometimes disappointing.
From: Snookfever
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
Sent: Fri,
Dennis:
What do you think about up sizzing to a 40 or 42 slow jet?
Looking forward to alignment... left side of tire is less then 50%.
On Jan 15, 10:05 pm, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
> Yes. Reclean. My mistake. It was pointed out to me and went back and measured
> the exact sizes.
> Correct alignm
I am on my own, but thanks to the NH Lovers and folks like Dennis H, I
am learning...
Still puzzled about my tire wear issue, may check archive.
On Jan 15, 8:58 pm, Kyle Munz wrote:
> Well, good luck :) I'm just grateful that I know ppl that speak carburetor.
>
> -Kyle
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 15
Dennis:
If the slow jet is #38 is 0.005" then when I wired it last year with a
0.0011 diameter wire I did not clean it properly to 0.005". Should I
try cleaning them again with a 0.005" wire or buy new ones?
How do I correct alignment?
On Jan 15, 9:37 pm, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
> The alignment
That was corrected later and Kyle had the right size .005" I had given a wrong
size from an old document compiled for me by another party. Jets are not
arbitrary in size. They are referenced to the number 100. There is a standard
for a number 100 that flows so much fuel in so much time at a fixe
You're at sea level 40 maybe. Clean 35 first.
From: Snookfever
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
Sent: Fri, January 15, 2010 10:26:18 PM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carb/K&N Tunning
Dennis:
What do you think about up sizzing to a 40 or 42 slow jet?
L
The alignment of your bike is off, shifting the contact point from the center
of the tire to one side. You broke off before getting to fine tuning a
chassis.
From: Snookfever
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
Sent: Fri, January 15, 2010 9:06:49 PM
Subject:
Josh:
The petcock should have a small vaccume line and a larger fuel line.
My shop manual shows the CA vaccume line routing diagram with the
canister /PCV connecting to the ports between each carb and the
engine. On my NON- CA 700S the vacume line goes to the number two
carb port and the other t
Well, good luck :) I'm just grateful that I know ppl that speak carburetor.
-Kyle
On Fri, Jan 15, 2010 at 7:39 PM, Snookfever wrote:
> Kyle:
>
> Thanks I found a message from Dennis from May of 2009 on the subject
> of 700S carb:
>
> Dennis wrote: "The actuall size of the hole in a slow jet (
Kyle:
Thanks I found a message from Dennis from May of 2009 on the subject
of 700S carb:
Dennis wrote: "The actuall size of the hole in a slow jet (#38) is .
0011" That's eleven ten thousands of an inch. No typo."
Final Jepoardy : I found two Keihin slow jets N424-21 and N424-26
(http://www.pjm
G'day Nighthawk Lovers,
Here in Virginia, I took advantage of the only 'got up to 50 degrees' day
lately to do a mid-winter run on my (new to me) parts bike, a 1984 CB-650SC
(just one year off my main ride). Got it this past fall, and its only
problem in fall was dirty carbs, which Seafoam
Just go to http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers and in the top
right corner is a 'search this group' box. As to translating jet sizes I
have no idea how that's done, I just went with what Dennis said he'd
measured. The kit I got from starcycle came with two sizes to choose from,
we simpl
Kyle:
Thanks, how did you search old messages? I recall a message from
Dennis last year when I first cleaned the carbs and I thought he
indicated the slow jet being 0.0011. I remember sanding a leader wire
to clean it. Several web sites sell jets for Keihin carbs, but the
size range is 35-80. H
Unfortunately, what I learned about jet sizes, is that they're arbitrary.
What one company might call a #35 for example doesn't really mean anything
to others. I think honda calls the stock jets #115 and #35. A quick search
of the group's archived messages turns up a msg from Dennis translating
tho
Kyle:
Do you recall the size of the slow jet you used?
Allen:
The K&N lets in more air but slower air which mean less fuel/
leaner.The cup inside the K&N does not restrict air flow it
accelerates it so it can pick up more fuel..
On Jan 15, 1:40 pm, Allen wrote:
> Kyle, if you had to put a yog
Got it. The shop manual that I have is for a 1992 CB750F2 I think
european? Not exactly the same apparently. There was a bolt on the
airbox that I needed to remove that wasn't on the diagram. Oh well,
now come the fun part! On mine the airbox bolts don't have slots you
just take them out. Thanks fo
I don't know about the newer bikes, but on my 650 the problem was the
studs in the airbox not sliding far enough back. I took a dremel to
the slots so it would slide further back. I'm not sure if the same
applies to 750 or not.
On 1/15/10, Allen wrote:
> I can't seem to get the airbox far enough
What you are doing is inviting more rust or aluminum corrosion later with that,
because it gets gummy and attracts dirt which attracts and holds moisture which
causes more corrosion, which is what you are trying to get rid of and protect
against in the first place.
I don't do half a--, Miss Hot
I can't seem to get the airbox far enough back to get the carbs off
the isolators. Do I need to pull off the rear fender?
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Thanks, Graham.
Stanley
--- On Fri, 1/15/10, Graham Rogers wrote:
From: Graham Rogers
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] I'm gonna practice painting on side-panel's 1st
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date: Friday, January 15, 2010, 11:49 AM
good advice Stan
On Jan 15, 2010, at 11:28
Has anyone had any luck painting the chrome with clearcoat after cleaning off
the rust? (non exhaust surfaces)
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 08:00:10 -0800
From: tinkrm...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] I'm gonna practice painting on side-panel's 1st
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
I'll have to think about that one for a while...
On Jan 15, 1:42 pm, Kyle Munz wrote:
> It runs smooth without the cup too. The idea behind the hammerl mod isn't to
> restrict flow so much as to shape it and speed it up.
>
> -Kyle
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Go
Actually if you are using thinned lacquer you can use a brush, and get
good results. Especially if you follow up with rubbing compound. I
build model airplanes and I can get silk cloth to shine like a car
with clear coat on it, just using a brush, rubbing compound, and wax.
Time consuming though.
It runs smooth without the cup too. The idea behind the hammerl mod isn't to
restrict flow so much as to shape it and speed it up.
-Kyle
On Fri, Jan 15, 2010 at 12:40 PM, Allen wrote:
> Kyle, if you had to put a yogurt cup in the air cleaner to restrict
> flow (richen the mixture) then I would
Kyle, if you had to put a yogurt cup in the air cleaner to restrict
flow (richen the mixture) then I would think that it is too lean and
you should have put in the bigger jets?
On Jan 14, 6:49 pm, Kyle Munz wrote:
> All we changed were the slow jets. The kit came with two sizes and we used
> the
I bought a multi-pack of small rubber seals from the auto parts store. Some of
them worked on my bikes. HotrodMamma.
From: Kyle Munz
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Sent: Fri, January 15, 2010 10:49:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1983 Nighthaw
To heck with all of that work. I just use WD-40 and a rag on it. Some of you
got too much time on your hands...;) It shines it up and stops the rust.
HotrodMamma.
From: Theresa Hutchison
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Sent: Fri, January 15, 2010 6:28:2
If the screen is bad I wouldn't worry about it just put a good in line fuel
filter on it.
rodhall
-Original Message-
From: Kyle Munz
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Sent: Fri, Jan 15, 2010 11:49 am
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1983 Nighthawk 550 Gas Leak
I removed m
You are right the tank comes off the same. the fuel and vacuum lines are the
same and there are no wires as there is no full gauge.
rodhall
-Original Message-
From: Kyle Munz
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Sent: Fri, Jan 15, 2010 11:49 am
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re:
I removed my tank first. On the 650 you remove the seat and you can see one
bolt holding the tail-end of the tank down, remove that and it lifts up and
back. Disconnect the fuel line and vacuum line. The 650 also has a fuel
gauge you have to disconnect the wires to the sending unit, I don't think
t
good advice Stan
On Jan 15, 2010, at 11:28 AM, stanley/ Randolph wrote:
Like I said: Fine Cut Cleaner. I used some equivalent to polish
brass for military inspection and no one had shinier brass. It
looked almost silver. Chrome is just another metal. Fine Cut
Cleaner on the end of a
Kyle,
That's really helpful. Thanks a ton man! I guess a remaining
question though, is without my Clymer manual, how would I get to the
point where your photos start? What are the steps to remove the
petcock itself (or is it too complicated and I need to wait for the
Clymer to ship)? And final
I have pictures from when I took mine apart on my 650. There should be some
similarities with your 550 if they're not the same part. Also, once you have
the petcock off there should be a plastic screen inside the tank that the
reserve "straw" sticks up into, make sure that doesn't have any rips or
I don't think it's a hole... However, I did realize it when I had it
running while sitting recently. It is dripping at a steady pace from
the bottom of the petcock. The main fuel line that runs from the
petcock to between the carbs (2 & 3) is also noticeably wet with fuel.
My clymer manual isn'
I use the steel wool with Mother's aluminum polish. The Mother's is good
for the wheels also. If the spots are deep the Brasso looks the best to me. It
fills the pits the best.
rodhall
-Original Message-
From: Theresa Hutchison
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Sent: Fri
We've just got a couple of new Advance Auto Parts stores here. Never used them
yet.
Stanley
--- On Fri, 1/15/10, Graham Rogers wrote:
From: Graham Rogers
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] I'm gonna practice painting on side-panel's 1st
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date: Friday, Janu
If it's available, your Busch may be better, Graham; but, I have also used
Brasso in a pinch.
Stanley
--- On Fri, 1/15/10, Graham Rogers wrote:
From: Graham Rogers
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] I'm gonna practice painting on side-panel's 1st
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date: Fr
Most parts houses have it, and even WallyWorld carries some Meguiar's. I
usually order from a wholesale supply company, because I order the wax and
cleaners in bulk sizes - gallons at a time.
Stanley
--- On Fri, 1/15/10, Theresa Hutchison wrote:
From: Theresa Hutchison
Subject: Re: [Nig
Yes just about any auto parts store has these products. I got the
Busch stuff at Advanced Auto Parts.
On Jan 15, 2010, at 11:14 AM, Theresa Hutchison wrote:
Is this something you can just pick up at the auto parts store?
On Fri, Jan 15, 2010 at 11:11 AM, stanley/ Randolph
wrote:
Due to
I don't use steel wool on aluminium, just chrome. On aluminium I
have a cleaner that is great - brings it up like chrome if you've
got the time. It's called Busch super shine aluminum polish. But i
imagine any medium or fine cut cleaner as Stan suggested would do the
same.
On Jan 15,
Like I said: Fine Cut Cleaner. I used some equivalent to polish brass for
military inspection and no one had shinier brass. It looked almost silver.
Chrome is just another metal. Fine Cut Cleaner on the end of a Dremel type
tool with a polishing pad will be a lot quicker than jeweler's rou
Fine steel wool more than likely won't, but if there is some peeling of the
chrome involved, a strand may get caught and pull the chrome up, more than
cleaner will. Medium Cut Cleaner.
I have used it to put a satin finish on laquer or acrylic finish on furniture,
but if you want a shine, use
Is this something you can just pick up at the auto parts store?
On Fri, Jan 15, 2010 at 11:11 AM, stanley/ Randolph wrote:
> Due to the fact that steel wool is harder and more abrasive than rubbing
> compound, and will leave particles lodged in the pocks, I would not
> recommend it. We lear
Due to the fact that steel wool is harder and more abrasive than rubbing
compound, and will leave particles lodged in the pocks, I would not recommend
it. We learned about this when I was in the Air Force, because proud crew
chiefs back in WWII would use steel wool to polish their planes. If y
So what do you people use to polish the rims? I assume that is aluminum,
right? the rims and forks on my '96 NH 750 don't shine anymore :(
J.
On Fri, Jan 15, 2010 at 11:00 AM, stanley/ Randolph wrote:
> If it's not too bad, you can use rubbing compound, like Meguiar's medium
> cut cleaner; I am
If it's not too bad, you can use rubbing compound, like Meguiar's medium cut
cleaner; I am sure it will remove most of the stains, but you may have minute,
barely noticeable pocks from the rust. There will be more upkeep, since the
iron beneath is exposed from the corrosion. Keep it waxed.
S
Awesome! Thanks!
On Fri, Jan 15, 2010 at 9:28 AM, Kyle Munz wrote:
> If you can find it "brass" wool works a little better. Pretty much the same
> as steel wool but it's softer so less chance of damaging the chrome. It does
> shine things right up, I've also used a brass wire-wheel in my dre
If you can find it "brass" wool works a little better. Pretty much the same
as steel wool but it's softer so less chance of damaging the chrome. It does
shine things right up, I've also used a brass wire-wheel in my dremel to get
rust off of chrome. Polish with regular wax when you're done to keep
If it ends up that the rust does take off the chrome in tiny spots, is there
some way to treat it or something you would put on it?
I have seen a friend of mine use the jewelers rouge along with something
else, I want to say mineral oil I think it was... it was definately alot of
elbow grease.
I
Dennis made a good comment. One good running bike is worth more than
a garage full of nonrunning fixer uppers - or something like that.
I'm weeding out my fixer uppers. I'm working on a 1980 Yamaha
Midnight Special 1100 right now.
On Jan 15, 2010, at 8:36 AM, Kim Paddock wrote:
You know
I would replace it before the weather gets too hot. It helps the air flow on
hot days.
From: in8design
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
Sent: Thu, January 14, 2010 2:21:05 PM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] How important is the air guide?
When I was winterizing
No, just the steel wool. On 'blued' or discolored from heat or
stains I used jeweler's rouge. It takes a lot of elbow grease but I
have brought pipes back to pristine that were blue from heat. Unless
the rust has taken off the chrome and is not just a spot here and
there, it's incredible
I have a bunch of different types of automotive gasket material. I picked one
of the thinner more dense fiber gaskets to work with.
From: "pa_s...@verizon.net"
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thu, January 14, 2010 1:50:19 PM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lov
You know it! I did look at the $300.00 one though...it's a mess. Needs just
about everything done even though it runs. Someone took the time and care to
take a paint brush to the gas tank too. Drugs'll make ya stoopid.
From: Graham Rogers
To: nighthawk_lovers
I can do that too. I have my trusty ole pocket knife right here ;) With
this poor bike I'll be picking for a while... you think this will qualify me
as a legitimate Picker and Grinner? ;)
Do you use the steel wook in conjunction with anything else to reduce
friction? Like soap or anything else
No, fine doesn't, but try it in an obscure place first. If there
are rust spots 'dots' I often just pick them off with a razor blade
or point of a knife.
On Jan 15, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Theresa Hutchison wrote:
Really...??... I would have thought it would scratch up the
chrome, it doesn't?
Really...??... I would have thought it would scratch up the chrome, it
doesn't?
On Fri, Jan 15, 2010 at 8:04 AM, Graham Rogers wrote:
> fine steel wool does a good job.
>
> On Jan 15, 2010, at 7:55 AM, Theresa Hutchison wrote:
>
> Speaking of painting and fixing up... Is there anyway to
fine steel wool does a good job.
On Jan 15, 2010, at 7:55 AM, Theresa Hutchison wrote:
Speaking of painting and fixing up... Is there anyway to clean up
the chrome after a bike has sat for YEARS...??? It's got little
tiny rust sposts here and there and I'm really not sure what to do
with
Speaking of painting and fixing up... Is there anyway to clean up the
chrome after a bike has sat for YEARS...??? It's got little tiny rust
sposts here and there and I'm really not sure what to do with it or if
anything really can be done at all...
~Traccie
On Thu, Jan 14, 2010 at 10:07 PM,
I can't imagine why the fuel would not go directly from the petcock
to the carbs. It's emissions from the valve cover to the air box
they did something different with I think. I have a PVC canister
under the tank, above the carbs on my '86 700. It's between the valve
cover vent and the ai
Here in the northern latitude I went for a 45 minute ride yesterday
on my '02 750 with a kawa friend. Today we will do the same. I'll
take a different NH - decisions, decisions, decisions ...
On Jan 14, 2010, at 10:06 PM, Kyle Munz wrote:
Yeah, time, time I won't be able to ride the bike.
I'm in the process of bringing an '84 cb700 back to life and have a question.
My nighthawk is a California model and the repair manual I have must be for the
same CA model. I just cleaned the fuel petcock and am trying to get the thing
to fire up. The fuel on this goes to a valve then to a c
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