So I got a torque wrench the other day and wanted to check some of my torque
jobs I've done recently. (My rear axle but was spot on btw. Cheers). I get to
my exhaust flange bolts and I couldn't even get near the 17-22 torque spec
before the flange bolt snapped. So I'm warming up my soldering iro
Soldering attempt was futile. I went a bought some Jb weld high heat and it was
setting for maybe 3-4 hours and I tried doing some sanding on the weld and the
bolt came off pretty easily. The Jb weld was still kinda moist. It was a bit
crumbly. I'm thinking it hadn't cured totally yet. So I redi
Forget the solder and JB Weld
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 6, 2015, at 15:45, Alexander Press wrote:
>
> Soldering attempt was futile. I went a bought some Jb weld high heat and it
> was setting for maybe 3-4 hours and I tried doing some sanding on the weld
> and the bolt came off pretty easily
if you can get a pair of nuts on the remaining stud you can probably
unscrew it from the head, Better yet buy a stud extractor an have the right
tool for the job. The trick is finding a replacement stud.
On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 3:54 PM, Graham Rogers
wrote:
> Forget the solder and JB Weld
>
> Sen
You're right Allen. I didn't realize it was a double sided bolt. Cmsnl has one
left. One. And it's 30 euro to get it here. Screeweww that! Pun intended.
Maybe I can get one custom made for cheaper.
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So I'm sitting here thinking. Couldn't I just get a really long 8mm bolt and be
done with it? Pull the old stud out and just use a bolt for that one exhaust?
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yes
On Sep 6, 2015, at 5:36 PM, Alexander Press wrote:
> So I'm sitting here thinking. Couldn't I just get a really long 8mm bolt and
> be done with it? Pull the old stud out and just use a bolt for that one
> exhaust?
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Googl
et so it won't rust.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
Original message
From: Graham Rogers
Date: 09/06/2015 4:52 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor
yes
On Sep 6, 2015, at 5:36 PM, Alexa
00)
> To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor
>
> yes
>
> On Sep 6, 2015, at 5:36 PM, Alexander Press wrote:
>
> > So I'm sitting here thinking. Couldn't I just get a really long 8mm bolt
> and be done with it? Pull the
I wish I could find a 6-8mm stud. Looks like Honda is the only ones to use
them. I found a 700s 7-8 stud on eBay. Bought it. The length on mine is 52 the
700s is 60. Will that cause any issues you think?
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The length shouldn't cause too much trouble as long as you can slide the
collar over it. You may have to drill it out a little.
-Kyle
On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 5:55 PM, Alexander Press wrote:
> I wish I could find a 6-8mm stud. Looks like Honda is the only ones to use
> them. I found a 700s 7-8 s
Kinda what I was thinking. If it does I'm sure a machine shop could cut it to
size and round the ends off if absolutely needed. Man what a nightmare this has
been. Ugh!
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http://store.034motorsport.com/step-stud-8mm-to-6mm.html
Think these would work? Granted they're only 32 mm. Not 52 like spec calls for.
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A good hardware store will have the stud. Auto parts stores like napa have a
help section with dorman products, you'll find a package of studs and nuts for
manifolds in that section.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 7, 2015, at 10:39 AM, Alexander Press wrote:
>
> http://store.034motorsport.com/
http://www.lambrettaspares.com/spares/studs/stud,-8__6mm-x-42mm,-stepped-repair-stud-for-crankcase-side-tail-pipe,-stainless-steel,-mb/mbp0278.html
Here's another one for a scooter. It's only 1cm shorter than spec.
Man, I wish it were that easy. Although I haven't been to any hardware stores
or
I haven't tried this since Jason's 650 has all the studs, but you may be
able to ream out the hole in the exhaust collar so you can use an 8mm
straight stud.
Allen Thomas
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The PO of my 700S did this. Word of warning if you try it. Ream the hell
out of the collar before you try to slide it on. DO NOT FORCE IT. If you do
it will get stuck halfway, the soft aluminum will merge with the hardened
threads and it will be inseparable. No amount of prying, banging, torching
w
I figured it'd be possible. I'm having a helluva time with this stud. There's
maybe 3/4 " of the stud protruding from the head. It's a fairly tight squeeze
to the stud. Maybe a 3/4" diameter circle around the area I have to work with.
Could probably drop the exhaust to get a tiny bit more room o
This might be a dumb suggestion at this point my but have you tried soaking
it with PB blaster? I had only once had to deal with a seized stud, and
applying PB blaster several times and leaving it over night really did the
trick. In my opinion soldering something to grab it sounds like a good
optio
Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
Original message
From: Alexander Press
Date: 09/07/2015 3:20 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor
I figured it'd be possible. I'm having a helluva time with this stu
Calling shops was my next option. I really don't wanna mess it up any more than
I have. At least a shop will have dealt with this kind of issue before.
Hopefully they only charge like 20 bucks. I can't see this taking more than
five min for someone with the correct tools and know how.
Ugh. Ni
The best stuff I found for removing bluing is jeweler's rouge but like Allen
said you still have to rub till your arm falls off. With a buffing wheel or
similar, any polishing compound would do it.
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 9, 2015, at 09:35, Allen Thomas wrote:
>
> Run your bike hard while
I'm sorry, I sidetracked the thread with my snooty comment.
Anyways...
I got a torch coming to work tomorrow. Apparently the guy has a "good" pair of
vice grips.
Failing that, I'm going to Home Depot to buy a stuck extractor. Not an ez out.
But like a socket type deal. Anyone have experience
Parrot nose pliers are much better than vise and channel locks. They tighten
as you pull. Snap on has the best ones in 4 different sizes but $$.
Auto zone OEM tool rental has or had a stud socket kit that is a socket with
jaws inside them made to remove and install.
My last suggestion is
I have a 1983 650 Nighthawk with the outside stud of number 4 exhaust broken
off. I have not been able to unscrew it with vice grips of any kind even after
soaking it with PB Blaster. I'm not that concerned. I didn't notice it was
broken off when the was engine running. However I will check at
I've heard heat is necessary for extraction no matter what rote you choose. I
got a co worker coming to work with a torch today. So I'll keep everyone
updated as to how that goes. Tool rental from auto zone I think will be my best
bet. Thanks for that suggest.
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Don't get the stud glowing hot. Since the head is aluminum you can soften
the threads that way, you'll damage them pulling it out.
I've had success in the past hitting bolts with a torch, then squirting PB
or WD at the base to quickly chill the stud/bolt, then hitting it with the
extractor. Not a
Have your guy be super careful with that torch, aluminum doesn't give any
warning before it turns into a liquid. Its melting point is roughly 1200
degrees which is a lot lower than the 2000 degrees propane burns at, and
mapp or acetylene burns hotter especially if mixed with oxygen. You should
only
Alexander,
Are you unable to fit two nuts on the stud? That is still the best way to
remove a stud if possible. What other guys are saying about the torch is
true and the next time I have any success with a screw extractor will be
the first time. The stud socket solution sounds best but if you don'
I just bought the stud extractor from NAPA, the one you are talking about. It's
like a socket with the extractor inside. I'll have to remove the exhaust to get
it over the top of the stud. Won't happen for a couple of days, Graham
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 10, 2015, at 09:00, Alexander Press
It fits
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 10, 2015, at 11:18, Kyle Munz wrote:
>
> Alexander,
> Are you unable to fit two nuts on the stud? That is still the best way to
> remove a stud if possible. What other guys are saying about the torch is true
> and the next time I have any success with a scre
Graham, which kind did you get?
This type:
http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/image/spin_prod_206325301
This:
http://tinyurl.com/nrhb8z9
Or this:
http://www.toolsource.com/prod_medium/100652.jpg
On Thu, Sep 10, 2015 at 12:23 PM, Graham Rogers
wrote:
> It fits
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Sep 10
The one autozone lends out is the middle one. I've read decent things about the
Titan (last, tapered one). The top one sketches me out a bit as the torque
point is off to the side.
As far as the torch goes it's propane in a blue bottle. I'll be running it.
Going to drop my exhaust and go for i
The aluminum head is going to act like a big heatsink for that stud, I
would give it heat in 30 sec increments with trying to unscrew it in
between.
On Thu, Sep 10, 2015 at 3:15 PM, Alexander Press
wrote:
> The one autozone lends out is the middle one. I've read decent things
> about the Titan (
Don't forget new exhaust seals.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
Original message
From: Alexander Press
Date: 09/10/2015 3:15 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor
The one autozone lends o
The middle one Allen tinyurl.
On Sep 10, 2015, at 12:32 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
> Graham, which kind did you get?
>
> This type:
> http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/image/spin_prod_206325301
>
> This:
> http://tinyurl.com/nrhb8z9
>
> Or this:
> http://www.toolsource.com/prod_medium/100652.jp
rust.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
> Original message
> From: Graham Rogers >
> Date: 09/06/2015 4:52 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: nighthaw...@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodo
hone
>>
>>
>> Original message
>> From: Graham Rogers
>> Date: 09/06/2015 4:52 PM (GMT-06:00)
>> To: nighthaw...@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Feeling like Hodor
>>
>> yes
>>
>> On Sep 6, 2015,
s. Not sure
>>> about the 650s though. If you use bolts, get the best kind you can get so
>>> it won't rust.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
>>>
>>>
>>> Original message
>
you can get
>>>> so it won't rust.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Original message
>>>> From: Graham Rogers
>&g
IMHO
I wouldn't stress so much about one stud. If you have a limited season to
ride, enjoy it while you can. I rode my 550 for 8 months until I took the
pipes off to repaint them & found 2 broken studs! The pipes aren't going
anywhere.
-Bernie
On 09/07/15, Alexander Press wrote:
Calling
I wouldn't mind but it's so freakin' loud! I got one of those stud extractor
kits from a friends dad who works in remodeling. And our mechanic at work
(mobile diesel truck mechanic) is going to help me remove the screw tomorrow at
lunch. I have the cb700s stud incoming (7-8x60, oem for my bike i
I wouldnt. It wont stay chrome. "They" say that revving past 3-4,000 without
moving (cooling air) is why they turn color.
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I wouldnt. It wont stay chrome. "They" say that revving past 5-6,000 without
moving (cooling air) is why they turn color.
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I think that's from a poor air/fuel mixture. Mainly lean. As lean headers tend
to be hotter than rich or "normal" a/f ratio'do engines. But that takes time.
Quite a lot of time actually. It doesn't just happen overnight. And there are
products which can remove that "bluing". I don't know. We'll
Run your bike hard while it is lean and you get gold/blue pipes. Those
bluing products are nothing more than chrome polish, you need to rub until
your arm falls off to get them to do anything. If you actually want to get
rid of blueing you have to pull the pipes and use a buffing wheel, or at
least
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