Is it necessary to buy a spotmeter with a sighting scope? These are
extremely expensive, but without one I do not see how you can accurately
point it at a spot you want to meter. Without being able to accurately
line up, you could only do general or incident readings surely? This is
why I
Thank you for your comment. Why is it so crisp and crystal clear? Well, it
was taken with a Super-Takumar so that explains a lot. It is almost as crisp
as the original print, in fact, after being scanned in with a Canon flat bed
scanner and then given two shots of sharpen with Photoshop 5.5.
Ray
Thanks for the additional information, William. I'll put it on hold for the
time being (but I certainly won't forget about it) and will bring it up
again closer to the actual date and see what the situation is then.
Ray Allen. Sydney. Australia.
Check out Spotmatic at Yahoo!Groups at:
Gerald,
For me, #01 is better because you caught a beautiful smiling expression. The
other one is good too but a smile usually beats a pensive look. Just my
opinion, though.
Ray Allen. Sydney. Australia.
Check out Spotmatic at Yahoo!Groups at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/spotmatic
-
On Mon, Jun 04, 2001 at 12:59:55AM -0600, William Robb wrote:
- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: June 4, 2001 12:40 AM
Subject: Mr. Stoopid's Darkroom Triumph
Insert your tale of woe here
May ~your~ darkroom
Hello!
Does anyone know anything more than what is on Boz's site about the 28-105 FA 3.2-4.5?
I've been looking around to try and find a price, but no place seems to stock it!
Does this lens really exist? I remember from previous threads it was suggested that
this is an original Pentax
Jon Hope wrote:
I found that for flowers and non moving objects the 50mm is fine. For
things that move, or things that tend to fly/run/crawl away when you get
too close, 105mm can be a tad on the short side. 50mm is usually way too
close. The problem with the next step, 180mm or 200mm is
Thanks Tom, that happens with most of my shots :-)
Norm
aimcompute wrote:
The Gallery by Norm Baugher, Germany/USA
Cool shot. It took me a while to figure out exactly what it was.
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Thanks for the mention Frantisek!
Norm
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Norm Baugher's. Now who says a 50mm lens is unusable for architecture? Your picture
proves them very wrong! I like this one a lot.
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In the UK , Jessops fixed grade papers is Ilfospeed,
according to Barry Thornton. I have used Jessops fixed
grade papers for a few years and found it to give more
pleasing prints with less frustration than most VC
papers. Jessops latest VC paper is the exception,
apparently it is Agfa sourced and
Shel I agree with you here.I recently bought a used AF to help
with my horse shots(to compliment my K1000 and SP 500)but my manual
cameras still take the best pic's.I find i concentrate an the
composition a lot more and pre set the shots.With the AF set on Sports
i just shoot(although this is
Hello
it seems to be true, as far as the Phillips CCD is very slow to refresh
itself, expensive regard to small size 6Meg.
Well I hope MZ Digital will existe as soon as possible even with a smaller
CCD, because it will mean that Pentax has to devellop a 17-35mm f/:2.8 zoom
See you
[EMAIL
From what I've gathered, the project has not stopped - just gone into shock
at the realization of what the actual retail price might be. Ever since
Photokina the figure $7,000 has been tossed around. As far as I can tell,
Pentax has NEVER officially announced this price - it seems that it was
Francis Tang schrieb:
Does anyone know anything more than what is on Boz's site about the 28-105 FA
3.2-4.5? I've been looking around to try and find a price, but no place seems to
stock it!
Pentax Flash, a consumer magazine from Pentax Germany, introduces the SMC Pentax-FA
-Original Message-
From: Jon Hope [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 8:19 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: AF Macro Lens Question
Snip
Snip
I found that for flowers and non moving objects the 50mm is fine. For
things that move, or things that tend
On Mon, 04 Jun 2001 01:31:43 -0400, Lon Williamson wrote:
Superglue carefully the right size strip in front
of your focus screen.
Be _very_ careful with super glue (cyanoacrylate glue) in this sort
of application. That stuff will emit vapors (outgas) for several days
after you apply it, while
Good choices. I believe you will be very happy with the Vivitar macro. A
little too much plastic but very sharp. The great part is that you can use
the attachment lens, which is of good quality, also on your 50mm.
--- Ed Dombek [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'd like to offer my sincere thanks to
At 20:40 4/06/01, you wrote:
Hi Len and Otis
Could you expand on the flash sync problem? I don't do a lot of macro work
but you have caught my interest, I being a heavy flash user, it's unusual
when I don't have flash mounted on the camera. I may not turn it on, but
it's usually there.
At 3:37 PM 6/3/01 -0700 Jaroslaw Brzeziñski wrote:
As regards a 50mm f/1.4 with close-up lens(es), it does give you easier
focusing, especially in poor available light conditions due to te high
speed (and close-up lenses - in contrast to extension tubes or a
bellows -
do not slow it
At 20:23 4/06/01, you wrote:
Shel I agree with you here.I recently bought a used AF to help
with my horse shots(to compliment my K1000 and SP 500)but my manual
cameras still take the best pic's.I find i concentrate an the
composition a lot more and pre set the shots.With the AF set on Sports
i
William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: June 4, 2001 12:40 AM
Subject: Mr. Stoopid's Darkroom Triumph
Insert your tale of woe here
May ~your~ darkroom experiences all be
On Mon, 4 Jun 2001 05:32:17 -0700 martin tammer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Good choices. I believe you will be very happy with the Vivitar macro. A little too
much plastic but very sharp. The great part is that you can use the attachment lens,
which is of good quality, also on your 50mm.
I
I use the black foam from the underside of a spare mousepad, and after
cutting to size, stick it to the front-side of the focus screen with
standard UHU brand glue from the stationary shop. Works well... and
if I change my mind about something, I can pull it off with a pair of
tweezers and
Well as long as you didn't refill your wine glass with fixer, all should be
ok in the morning. :)
I've got a stoopid camera trick that rates up with that one and might make
you feel better.
Last weekend in Paris on a fine clear summery morning, jet-lagged and unable
to sleep, I took a cab with
What do you mean by jarring bokeh? I see a lot of shots in print these
days that use that as an artistic technique. I'm wearing my thick skin, so
please critique away. :)
More on the shots: I want to send her brother in Korea a pic or 2 of his
sister in Paris. I liked both of these pics
Mr. Stoopid would like to thank everyone who offered good ideas for
preventing this foolish mistake from happening again, and for not
making Mr. Stoopid feel too much like Mr. Sphincter.
--
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
It matters little how much equipment we use; it
matters much
On Fri, 1 Jun 2001, [iso-8859-1] Hernán Mouro wrote:
Pieter Nagel wrote:
2) Spot meter. Read the light of the musicians skin...
2a) Does this apply to portraits in general?
I would say so - the people are the focus of the shot - unless your
goal is to get all the detail of the black
On Sat, 2 Jun 2001 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
This may sound a really silly few questions, but I've
never seen a monopod. I realise it has one leg, but
how do you hold it steady? And when is it better than
a tripod? Is it as steady as a tripod? What does it
- Original Message -
From: Rob Brigham [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: June 4, 2001 3:13 AM
Subject: Spotmeters (Was: Learning To make a Photograph)
Is it necessary to buy a spotmeter with a sighting scope?
These are
extremely expensive, but without one I do not see how
On Sun, 3 Jun 2001, [iso-8859-1] Eduardo Carone Costa Júnior wrote:
Perhaps I'm just getting a little nervous. It seems that, the more I learn
about photography, the worse my photos get... Had anyone felt like this
before?
I find that with all forms of creativity.
What happens is that your
On Mon, 4 Jun 2001, Yoshihiko Takinami wrote:
Hello Ayash,
At 3 Jun 2001 10:25:20 +0530 (IST),
Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote;
Do any of you happen to possess this body or used it sometime? Please
comment (good or bad) on this body.
I have two. :^)
They are
the materials can be purchased at micro-tools.com
Paul M. Provencher
(ppro)
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Hi Gerald ...
What do you mean by jarring bokeh? I see a lot of shots in print these
days that use that as an artistic technique. I'm wearing my thick skin, so
please critique away. :)
What I meant is that the out of focus areas are, to my eyes and
sensibilities, harsh, not smooth. I'd
On Mon, 4 Jun 2001, Shel Belinkoff wrote:
Mr. Stoopid would like to thank everyone who offered good ideas for
preventing this foolish mistake from happening again, and for not
making Mr. Stoopid feel too much like Mr. Sphincter.
:-)
Wish you all the best.
Ayash K.
-
This message is from
If you are using the flash as fill in bright light, you will run into
camera shake problems with a long lens, and slower sync. This is not a
problem if you use a tripod, or use the flash as the main light.
Todd
At 07:27 AM 6/4/01 -0400, you wrote:
Jon Hope wrote:
I found that for flowers
In a message dated 6/4/2001 9:57:10 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
On Mon, 4 Jun 2001, Shel Belinkoff wrote:
Mr. Stoopid would like to thank everyone who offered good ideas for
preventing this foolish mistake from happening again, and for not
making Mr.
Combination and problem:
SV + Super-Takumar (not SMCT)
The mirror is stuck in the up/fired position and will not drop. The lens will
neither screw on tight nor unscrew and come off
I have tried - in vain - the self-timer, the clutch button, and both auto and
manual on the lens.
What do I do to
Usable Lenses:
Pentax KAF2-, KAF-, KA- and K-mount lenses.
Seems K-mount (AKA K and M series) lenses should be fine.
Todd
At 10:20 AM 6/4/01 -0300, you wrote:
Did you see in the features that the only lenses that accept are FA and F?
What about K and M??
Martin
Mine looks like Francis Tang's.
Brown bottles are film developer.
Windshield washer liquid bottle is paper developer.
Vinegar bottle is stop.
Milk jug is fixer.
The joys of the $50 darkroom! (Or was it even that much?)
Collin
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
I liked #1 and share many of the comments that the other viewers have
shared. The boken is a bit rough, perhaps because it is dark enough to be
noticable and also because it appears that you used a fairly small aperture
- a larger opening combined with faster shutter speed would have softened it
Is the shutter jammed open? You might be able to go in through the back,
but if the thing suddenly unjams it could be a disaster for the shutter and
mirror. Another thing to try would be to gently roll the film rollers, and
see if it becomes unstuck. That has fixed a couple of Canons.
Todd
Gerald,
I took the liberty of manipulating the image using a photo editor. I
cropped the image, threw the background more out of focus, made the image
lighter, and took away some green. The image would probably benefit from
finer adjustments than the quick 1-2 punch I gave it but I think this
Rob wrote:
There is no truth in the statement the MF lenses have lower MTF values
either,
Whatever resolving power a MF lens has it has to be distributed over a larger area
than a 35mm lens.
Pål
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William Robb wrote:
I have seen hand held light meters with spot attchments. These
give about 5º angle of acceptance, hardly a spot meter at all.
Dont discount incident light readings. Metering the light
falling on the subject, rather than the light reflecting fron
the subject is far more
The point is whether or not you use modern tecknology for getting lazy or for
realizing photographic vision. If you are concious of light no old mechanical camera
or separate light meter will ever make you able to put the exposure value accurately
to the camera for demanding slide film like
Shel wrote:
snip
Try this some time: go out on a bright, sunny day and focus
on a dark or medium colored car, but don't include the bright
highlights from the chrome trim in the metering. Then move the
camera slightly to pick up the bright specular highlights. I'll bet
the exposure set
The ZX-5n does *not* have flash sync up to 1/250th. It is either 1/100 or
1/125. The PZ-1p is the only current model that syncs to that speed.
Bruce Dayton
Sacramento, CA
- Original Message -
From: Paris, Leonard [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001
Plus you're starting out with a much lower res image than film
would record, and it's already recorded as discrete points of light by the CCD,
not "washed" over the film. (I know that was unscientific).
Tom C.
- Original Message -
From:
Evan
Hanson
To: [EMAIL
Hi
I had chance to touch Mz-S in Keeble's exhibition in PaloAlto, CA.
I was curious about the hunting while focussing and found that MZ-S does not
hunt while focussing uni-colored target.
There were 2 Pentax reps and they said Mz-S will be sold in July.
They said the price for 24-90 is
On Mon, 4 Jun 2001, Shel Belinkoff wrote:
Go shoot some film and see if the camera works properly. If not,
get it fixed. More than likely all is fine. The shutter curtain is
not so delicate that it's easily damaged.
Yep, I agree. I have accidentally touched my ME-Super's curtain as
well
Simply put, the ZX-5n which the original poster said he was
using has a
sync of 1/100. To hand hold, 1/200th is preferable for the
200mm, and 1/180
for the 180mm.
I followed my own suggestions and checked Pentax and Boz's web pages. I was
amazed to learn that the max flash sync of the
- Original Message -
From: Chaso DeChaso [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 7:06 PM
Subject: HELP! - Have I ruined my PZ-1p's shutter
Shel Belinkoff writes:
What I meant is that the out of focus areas are, to my eyes and
sensibilities, harsh, not smooth. I'd prefer something more creamy
and soft, which would better compliment the portrait, IMO.
This may be an artifact of the 50/1.2 in the 2.0-2.8 range, which I have
never
Just some brief comments...
Last Saturday thay had a dealers day (or whatever they call it) at my
local photo shop, Keeble and Shutchat in Palo Alto. The Pentax guy
didn't have the MZ-S visible, but showed one to me when I asked.
I was very surprised at how light it is. It didn't really feel
Hi all
Sorry to interrupt all of you from your regular discussion.
I'm clearing out some stuff to make way for newer stuff... these are extras
from
sets I've purchased for my own use.
Have the pair of M42 lenses to sell :
1. Pentax Super Takumar 50/1.4
- glass is practically
Hi,
I wrote the following earlier today to be a reply to Shel's post. Some
of it has been superceded by other people's replies, but I thought I'd
send it anyway.
The type of photography that I most enjoy looking at, and trying to
emulate, is exemplified by the Magnum agency. In many, perhaps
I prefer picture 2. It is less symmetrical, and the reflective expression is
one I like, although the smile of #1 does work as well.
Frits
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visit the Pentax
Shel wrote:
very snipped
Look at photographs. Not the crap in most magazines, but carefully
examine the work of the great photographers, regardless of their style.
Look at the work of photo journalists, those who do documentary work,
fashion photographers, and the like. Look at their prints
A colleague of my wants to sell some of his equipment. I'll take his ME
Super with a 50mm/f1.7, but there is also a Hanimex flash in the kit. I want
to offer him to sell it for him on eBay, but I have no idea about the value
of this flash, can someone advise please?
Hanimex TZ*2
0-90 tilt head
A colleague of my wants to sell some of his equipment. I'll take his ME
Super with a 50mm/f1.7, but there is also a Tamron lens in the kit. I want
to offer him to sell it for him on eBay, but I have no idea about the value
of this lens, can someone advise please?
TAMRON
CF TELE MACRO
BBAR MC o58
Greetings once again!
Just the other day I started a mini-thread about focussing problems and so
on. Since then I have been experimenting somewhat with the various
Pentaxes in my collection. I have been using a diopter correction lens in
the clip-on attachment with the rubber eyecup which
Mark Dalal wrote:
snip
They had a vision, an artistic drive. They produced images that
went far beyond the technical and penetrated the psyche. In fact, their
images succeed despite all the technical flaws. Can you argue that owning
an
all manual camera will give you an artistic vision?
This email arrived on 4 June, so that's 5 days! Snail mail is faster!
Frits
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Creature's Comfort
Sent: 31 May 2001 15:51
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Portrait lens wanted
William Robb wrote:
aimcompute wrote:
Nature's Architecture - Capilano Canyon, Vancouver, B.C. by Cameron
Hood
Lovely shot of the canyon. Been there many times. Who would know it was in
town? A question... Why the multiple exposure?
It was a long exposure shot at about f=32 on a F*300 on a coudy, dull, rainy
Hi Ed
I can vouch for what Mike says.
I got lighter fluid on the rollers of my SV and now the
shutter came undone.
Can't figure why your lens won't dismount though, but
you can safely remove the front plate of the lensmount
and all should be dandy. If it still won't come off...
chances are that
I think all the options you have listed are really quite decent, and
for what it seems, budget is no real object. As such, stick with the
OEM Pentax lenses.
re: 14mm, I find that 20mm is the widest that I could ever find a practical
use for... and 24mm was probably more useful 50% of the time,
I'm glad you wrote this, now I don't have to. A camera is only a tool in a
larger toolbox of skills and equipment. Sending someone off with a manual
camera is like sending someone off to build a structure using only s stone
ax. It may be appropriate, it may not. Seriously, to me, being a
I'm exploring some off-camera options for macro work, and I'm trying to decide
specifically how to mount the AF500FTZ once I decide where I want to put it. It
doesn't need a Pentax accessory shoe mount, because the F5P cord attaches directly to
the flash. But all the accessory shoe mounts
Bob Blakely wrote:
[Ephemeris information for full moon from Los Angeles area]
Hi Shel Bob (and anyone else still looking for this information),
I checked a couple of sky charting programs I have on my computer. For
Oakland, CA (pretty close to El Cerrito), moonrise will be about 8:21:53
Please send the messages to me directly, to not disturb other members, thanks.
Also, I've not included 110 and digital cameras, just because I started this
way, and I didn't want to change in the middle of the way.
Also, if you already submited and want to add new items, please put clearly in
Patrick White wrote:
Or are you simply looking for a film that will capture a wider range of
light? I've been suprised by Kodak's Ektacrome in the past. Looked to
capture detail down to about -3.5 stops and up to +2 or +3 stops. Flashing
is also an option.
That's more or less
My Stroboframe is coated so it doesn't short out the contacts. I have
mounted my AF500FTZ directly on it many times and it works great.
Bruce Dayton
Sacramento, CA
- Original Message -
From: Peter Popp [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: pentax-discuss [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001
These are the conditions:
1 - You must answer off-list, right to me.
2 - You must choose your favorite emulsion (35 and 120/220 allowed. Color and b
and w)
3 - You must choose ONLY ONE (color print OR slide OR b and w, etc).
4 - You must have personal experience with it.
WINNER by now: Tri-X
Very cool Conrad. I like it.
Dan Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Conrad wrote:
As an experiment I cut and ground a rectangular (not circular) +1.5
correction lens to fit inside the actual viewfinder of my Spotmatic. Once
shaped and ground to size I held it in place with a little model
cement. The
I was close with my Ephemeris program on my PPC.
I mentioned 8:22PM, 101 degrees magnetic north or 117 degrees true north.
Illumination at 99% increasing.
This program will also track the moon across the sky, giving me the Altitude
and Azimuth every 15 minutes.
Neat little free program.
Jeff
Don't panic about damage until you know if there really is some.
The shutter mechanism is a bit more sturdy than you have been lead to
believe. You may not have done any damage at all.
The first question is do you see any obvious damage to the shutter?
For example bent or miss aligned shutter
Aaron Reynolds wrote:
I have the manual focus Sigma 24mm f2.8 macro, and I am quite happy with
it. The minimum focus distance is really phenomenal and wonderful to
have, even though I don't use it for super-close stuff very often.
...and I posted that four or five days ago. Whee!
-Aaron
Hi Todd, I made a comparison chart with MZ-S, PZ-1P and MZ-5N. In the features says FA
and F. It's just a mistake?
Martin
-Original Message-
From: Todd Stanley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Monday, June 04, 2001 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: MZ-S
Usable
I'm unclear on exactly what happened. Are the curtains bent or otherwise
damaged? Or do they look just fine? If it's #2 I would slap a roll of
film in the camera, and take a good look at the results. Chances are the
shutter is fine. If damage is present, I would take it to a repair shop,
or
Well, unless there is something special, it's probably just another used
3rd party flash that's worth almost nothing. I would just keep it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1236893464
Todd
At 07:57 PM 6/4/01 +0100, you wrote:
A colleague of my wants to sell some of his
While I can't find this exact lens, I'd say not too much, unfortunently.
Probably $50 with that dent.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1237402543
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1237851344
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1241636108
At 01:28 5/06/01, you wrote:
Hi Len
I believe the ZX-5n has a flash sync up to and including 1/250th. It should
be easy to verify at either Boz's site or at Pentax's sites.
The (P)Z-1p has 1/250th flash sync. The ZX-5n (MZ-5n) has 1/100 and the
MZ-3 has 1/125 flash sync. I have owned all
???
Resolving power is not spread over the image (lenses are
essentially holographic devices). The medium format lens
simply has a wider field of view. Older MF lenses may not
have been as highly corrected as 35 mm lenses, but in these
days of CAD/CAM the resolving power of the lenses are
Using any meter (including the one in the camera) requires
some knowledge and common sense. A spot meter makes sense
with a view camera and the zone system.
However, I think that an incident light meter is better for
general photography. It gives you an 18% gray reading every
time. If you want
Is there a kind of instruction I can give the lab to avoid this problem?
Something like don't compensate exposure?
Yep, the very few times I've used a place like Wolf photo, I've said
exactly that: don't compensate exposure.
j
--
Hi John
Check:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1242947732
Don
- Original Message -
Excellent stuff. I was close to bidding on an SMC 100 Takumar bellows
lens bellows recently for the lens alone (I already have a bellows).
The 100 bellows lens is high on my
Thanks to those who replied to this. I'm not going into all the details
about why I think I would prefer a graded paper, but suffice to say I've
been printing for a while. I've arrived at and have been using graded Fiber
with cold light for some time now, and I want to extend that preference to
A good friend of mine is using an original Canon F1, which is
now in need of some repair service. He has checked with the
Canadian supplier, who was of no help at all.
Here is his description of the problem:
One of the 2 pins which release the removable viewfinder has
fallen out and disappeared.
I have the older Sigma 14mm - the 14mm f3.5. I've been
pretty satisfied with it, though it's not something I use very
often. Here's a cat photo taken with it:
http://www.net-link.net/~cassino/stuff/01010702pandora_e1.jpg
The SMC F 17-28 fisheye zoom is a really interesting lens, but the
fisheye
Thank you, Tom. I had similar concerns as you, since no one commented on my entry
from last month, and I thought maybe this month I'd submitted a second dud
Bill Sawyer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of aimcompute
- Original Message -
From: Francis Tang
Subject: Fill flash
On Mon, Jun 04, 2001 at 10:25:01PM +0200, Carlos Royo wrote:
By the way, I have observed lately that the use of fill
in flash, combined with a slow shutter speed, seems to have
become
fashionable among a number of
- Original Message -
From: Chaso DeChaso
Subject: HELP! - Have I ruined my PZ-1p's shutter curtains by
touching them?
snip
At some point in the evening, when re-loading my
PZ-1p, I managed to press my thumb directly into the
shutter curtains. It was hard enough so that I
actually
- Original Message -
From: Evan Hanson
Subject: Jarring Bokeh was: re:Which Picture is Better
- Original Message -
From: Evan Hanson
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 12:57 PM
Subject: Jarring Bokeh was: re:Which Picture is Better
Shel wrote:
What I meant is
- Original Message -
From: Pål Jensen
Subject: Re: Medium Format to 35 (WAS: Digital MZ - MR 52 projet
still in the air ???)
Rob wrote:
There is no truth in the statement the MF lenses have lower
MTF values
either,
Whatever resolving power a MF lens has it has to be
- Original Message -
From: John Mustarde [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: June 4, 2001 5:25 PM
Subject: 100/f4 Bellows Takumar Macro - Weed Photo
I got a 100/f4 Bellows Takumar recently, and thought
I'd share one of my first photos taken with it.
- Original Message -
From: Tom Rittenhouse [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: June 4, 2001 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: Medium Format to 35 (WAS: Digital MZ - MR 52 projet
still in the air ???)
???
Resolving power is not spread over the image (lenses are
essentially holographic
I was going to post something more on this subject, but after
this, anything I put in would be redundant.
William Robb
Remember, the LX Gallery is coming up.
Please see:
http://pug.komkon.org/LX_Gallery/LX_Submit.html
for more information.
- Original Message -
From: Bob Walkden [EMAIL
If it does turn out that it needs repair, the repair is not that difficult.
A couple of years ago I changed a roll of film in my (almost new) PZ-1p
while crossing a lagoon as a passenger in a dugout canoe. The canoe rolled a
bit in the wake of a powerboat, I did something to the shutter (like
If I am not mistaken, he's talking about photos taken with a really slow
flash sync, like 1/30 or 1/15. You get something that's a little sharp and
the rest is just a whole lot of motion blur. I think it's supposed to be
artsy, but it gets old real fast.
- Original Message -
From:
I recently bought the PENTAX SMC-FA 20-35mm f/4 AL and LOVE it. The
contrasty, full-frame sharpness, and distortion-free images have been
phenomenal. The lens also handles well, and is relatively small. Yeah, it's
f/4, but the one-stop loss vs. size is often handy.
It is, without a doubt, one
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