nute
exposures.
Bob
p.s. Thanks for all your informative help and suggestions over the years. You
are a model citizen in this
community.
===
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "HypoBob"
> >
> > As for exposure time, my f/360 camera with Ilfor
Bob,
I think you'll find that using photo paper in full sunlight will yield very
contrasty negatives. For a better tonal rendition, use a yellow (K8) filter
when exposing the negative. Some people recommend moving the filter during the
exposure so that the pinhole camera will not focus the sp
Guillermo,
In a posting on 13 December you stated that an 8x10 pinhole image rivaling the
resolution of a lens image (i.e., 5 lp/mm) could be obtained with a
focal length of 120 mm or less and the optimum pinhole.
Since one could place any size negative material in such an arrangement, aren't
y
Matti,
Over a year ago I found a web site (now long forgotten) describing a pinhole
camera with about a half dozen
negatives on hinged dividers. The "hinge" was probably just a piece of tape,
and each paper negative was mounted
on a thin, opaque divider. (Paper in a pinhole camera will transmi
Rob,
The very first pinhole camera I ever made (back in the mid-1970's) was just
such a contraption. (The Polaroid SX-70 was very popular, and I was making a
pinhole version.) I used a Simonize car wax can which had a screw-on lid. The
film was mounted inside the lid of the can with a couple
Chris,
I have compared pinhole paper negatives with and without a yellow filter in
front of the pinhole, and have found that the filter reduces contrast and
improves the tonal range of the negative, making contact printing much easier.
The positive prints still have an orthochromatic look becau
Guy,
Back in the 1974 Jim Shull published "The Hole Thing", a pinhole photography
book which includes a table of
reciprocity corrections for enlarging paper used in pinhole cameras.
(Apparently he was using Luminos
Industrial F which he rated at an ASA of 10.)
Using Shull as a starting point a
Dennis,
I have wrestled with this problem in the past. Last summer my wife dragged me
off on an Alaskan cruise, and I took about a dozen pinhole panoramics on Ilford
MGIV RC paper. It was nearly a week before
I developed them (in Dektol) and they all came out nearly black -- the only
negative
>
Guillermo,
You have the kind of wonderfully twisted mind that is an asset in pinhole
photograhpy. However, I think Skip has a point -- there may not be any B&W
processing chemicals around in 50 to 100 years, so
you had better leave a bottle of Rodinal down there too ;-) .
Bob
> Messag
Many thanks to all who suggested T nuts and threaded inserts. I have
discovered a new corner of
the hardware store. The T nut worked fine on one camera and the threaded
insert on the other.
Now this nut needs to insert himself behind the tripod-mounted cameras and make
some images.
Bob
Group,
I have made a couple of pinhole cameras but cannot come up with a method for
embedding a 1/4 20
nut in the base for a tripod socket. Both cameras are made of 1/2 inch
plywood. I would like
for the embedded nut to be flush with the bottom.
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated,
Bob
p.s
Jim Kosinski wrote: "We have no errors!"
Exactly right. At one end of the spectrum is art, which most people have
difficulty defining.
At the other end of the spectrum are errors, which most people think they can
recognize right
off. Pinhole photography bends the spectrum into a circle, mergi
>
Janet,
Thanks for the good comparison to a similar sheet film.
I should have been more explicit in my first posting. I had checked the
Massive Development Chart,
Agfa's web site, and all the archives of the rec.photo.* news groups. The
combination of Rodinal
and Kodak's 4x5 sheet film vers
I posted this question on the darkroom news group to no avail, but since it
involves pinhole
photography I probably should have tried this august group first.
I am making a pinhole camera to use 4x5 sheet film and thought that Tri X in
Rodinal may be
interesting. However I can't find any data o
Group,
I have been making pinhole images on 4x11 inch paper negatives mounted on a
film plane with a 5
inch radius of curvature. The results have been very satisfying, but the
aggravation of running
back to the darkroom to unload and reload after each exposure is getting to me.
I would like to
>
William,
Since photograpic paper is designed for the longer exposures common for
enlargers, its
reciprocity departure is not as severe as that for photographic film, but it is
present and does
need to be factored into the exposure.
Most black and white papers seem to have a "speed" equivalen
In reply to several messages on the subject of black tapes:
I would be very reticent about using any tape labeled "electrician's tape" in a
pinhole camera, for a couple of reasons:
First, electrician's tape is designed to be slightly elastic so that it can be
tightly wrapped around wires and it w
> Paul
Your Outer Banks pinhole images are very, very nice indeed. (I don't think
James
Joyce would object to your last title, but then he probably wouldn't be able to
see
it anyway.)
Judging by the 7x10 negative size, I assume you are using paper negatives. If
so,
which B&W paper have you f
>
Mark,
I haven't tried this technique myself, but someone did suggest blackening the
area
around the pinhole with the soot from a burning match or candle. This would
produce
a flat black finish without the danger of any paint running into the pinhole.
Bob
__
> Message: 3
> D
George,
Using Dektol at higher dilutions is an interesting way to handle contrast on
orthochromatic
negatives. However, what kind of shelf life are we talking about for the
diluted
developer? If we are getting into the realm of one-shot Dektol, then pinhole
photography
really is stranger
Is there any reason not to put a filter on the inside of a pinhole
camera?
I am considering putting one on the inside to keep it out of harm's way,
and so that it won't interfere with my super-sophisticated shutter
mechanism (a piece of black paper cut to within a tolerance of +/- 1/8
of an inch).
I recently make a pinhole camera out of 3/8 inch plywood and found,
somewhat to my surprise, that I was having troubles with warps and bends
in the plywood. I had always thought that one of the pluses of plywood
was that the plies canceled out the wood's tendency to warp.
Therefore I am wondering
The message below seems to have gotten lost during the technical
difficulties, so I will post it again:
> Thanks to all of you who offered suggestions as to the cause of the
> overly dense and flat negatives that my pinhole camera produced in
> Alaska.
>
> The camera was leak checked and otherwise
Recently I took a pinhole camera to Alaska and exposed several negatives
on a developer-incorporated, B&W, variable contrast RC paper.
Upon my return, development of these paper negatives resulted in very
dense, very flat negatives, as if the whole negative had been uniformly
and heavily fogged.
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