something to add to the discussion,the LX hubs are considered a better hub
than the newer XT's. The XT' went to an aluminum axle and smaller balls.
Less durable than the the LX.
The LX model is a little shinier too, they are built for the Euro trekking
market and not that available in the
It has smaller ball bearings, but more of them, 13x 3/16ths bearings versus
9x 1/4 ths bearings. I don't view the aluminum axle as a liability. This
bike will be ridden on road exclusively, and with 650b x 42 mm tires, so
not exactly a harsh operating environment.
I looked at the tech documents
Forgive the minor thread hijack, but actually I'd love to hear some more
opinions on XT vs LX hubs. I couldn't work out which are 'better' because
there are (of course) different criteria for different purposes. For my
purposes, weight is completely irrelevant. I want the better sealed, more
On Friday, May 9, 2014 1:43:05 PM UTC-7, Tom Harrop wrote:
Forgive the minor thread hijack, but actually I'd love to hear some more
opinions on XT vs LX hubs. I couldn't work out which are 'better' because
there are (of course) different criteria for different purposes. For my
purposes,
I got a new LX hub as part of a Handsoun wheel set and I like the shiny
borderline Suntour gold vibe I get from it.
-J
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real usage data is the best way to compare durability for these hubs. The
XT has had a lot more axle breakage reports since the switch to aluminum.
Yes it is a larger diameter axle to compensate for the much lower yield
strength, but the incidental data I've seen ( mostly MTB related) shows a
I got a new LX hub as part of a Handsoun wheel set and I like the shiny
borderline Suntour gold vibe I get from it.
-J
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I tried to grab an old school XTR off of eBay and someone outbid me with 2
seconds left. :(
Granted, I had outbid them with 15 seconds left...oh well, guess it takes
two to tango.
I gave up and just got a silver FH-T780 current gen XT hub. It doesn't
look as nice and shiny as the old school
the dark green park polylube stuff is fine.
On Thursday, May 8, 2014 11:56:28 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
I tried to grab an old school XTR off of eBay and someone outbid me with 2
seconds left. :(
Granted, I had outbid them with 15 seconds left...oh well, guess it takes
two to
On Thursday, May 8, 2014 11:56:28 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
I tried to grab an old school XTR off of eBay and someone outbid me with 2
seconds left. :(
Almost everyone uses proxy bidders, aka sniping software, to automatically
bid at the last moment. There were probably several
Regarding M737 hubs, this is a good resource for researching older MTB
parts -- especially shimano and suntour. Whenever I want to see if parts
are compatable, what configurations they came in or what sizes were
available, i just search for the model number. Sometimes, there are even
catalog
Regarding this discussion, one of my hub criteria was that it was well
sealed against water intrusion. Maybe it's something a lost cause?
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/bicycles-faq/part4/section-2.html
Perhaps the question should be not which is best sealed, but rather that
which is easier to
Agree with the idea of using older XT hubs have been using XT M730 hubs I found
on fleabay and converted w/8910 speed freehub body. Can use spacer for 7 speed
or 8,9,10 speed cassettes w/o. Presently set for 9 index, fiction otherwise.
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Jim, BOCA makes a sealed bearing set for that application
http://search.bocabearings.com/search?w=shimano%20xt%20bottom%20bracket
On Wednesday, May 7, 2014 9:58:24 AM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:
Regarding this discussion, one of my hub criteria was that it was well
sealed against water
Love to find deals on Shimano m730s and older Suntour hubs... in fact,
here's a smokin' deal on a set of NOS XC hubs on eBay (if you like 32H
hubs... personally I prefer 36H):
Those are for bottom brackets.
3/16th ball bearings for Shimano cup and cone...
http://search.bocabearings.com/search?w=shimano+xt+hub
On Wed, May 7, 2014 at 10:22 AM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:
Jim, BOCA makes a sealed bearing set for that application
sorry, I thought that was the question
On Wednesday, May 7, 2014 10:46:25 AM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:
Those are for bottom brackets.
3/16th ball bearings for Shimano cup and cone...
http://search.bocabearings.com/search?w=shimano+xt+hub
On Wed, May 7, 2014 at 10:22 AM, Ron Mc
When I upgraded the stock LX/Rigida wheel set on my Saluki to a Schmitt (Son
Delux wide) and ~1998 XTR-centered hubs, the choice on this medley was made by
a mixture of bling, the best I could afford, current technology and aesthetics.
I splurged on the dynamo, got a great deal on NOS XTR
My daughter's go-fast has a 1400g wheelset built on bikehubstore hubs with
Kinlin rims by Hoops (nice guy and builds nice wheels). If how long it
will free-spin on the bikestand counts for anything, these hubs are more
efficient than my Phil wheelset.
I'm riding C-Record/ Moskva rims on my go-fast and it's a heavy wheelset,
but is very nice. I put in new Boca ceramic balls and adjusted the cones
in place on the frame. I've never been on a quieter ride.
On Monday, May 5, 2014 5:38:12 PM UTC-5, Brewster Fong wrote:
On Monday, May 5,
Lots of interesting posts here, although rather off topic. I'd like to
come back to the OP original question. How much value does the buyer get
from hi end vs. low end hubs?
There are a number of variables - how much maintenance, how long the life
expectancy, how smooth the bearings, how big
Hi Jim others,
Thought I'd share my experience. I'm not planning to buy boutique hubs
again, mainly because service is difficult to come by outside the US. I had
a Phil Wood hub go bad within about 3–6 months (failed ratchet ring). The
tools for replacing the ratchet ring are apparently not
Michael,
I enjoyed your post quite a bit, but the one part I would have to quibble
with is the cost of Ultegra hubs vs. White Industries' hubs. You said they
were on par. I can get an Ultegra for about 1/3rd of the cost of the White
Industries hub. For example,
For rear hubs, if I want to go the best I can possibly get for UBER-cheap,
I like to go used Shimano M737. $25-$30 used. Tremendous value, and they
come with one of the best QR skewers of all time.
If I'm sparing no expense, White Industries. I have sworn off aluminum
cassette bodies
I saw one of those M737 hubs NOS on fleabay and also some used ones. They
look nice and high-polish shiny. I assume they are 8/9/10 compatible, yes?
Info was not available on the Shimano techdocs website :(
I think they purge anything document related that's more than around 3 or 4
generations
Yes, M747s are 8/9/10 compatible. I use them on several bikes using 8 and
9. My only 10 speed rear end has a White T11 (with a spacer!). haha
On Tuesday, May 6, 2014 3:53:57 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
I saw one of those M737 hubs NOS on fleabay and also some used ones. They
look nice
Thanks, Jim. I'm not sure which version of 105 hubs I had. They came on
my Rambouillet, circa 2004?? It's been a long time since I bought an
ultegra hub, but I remember paying about $200 for the rear and the last
White hub was about $250.T15 I think. I haven't priced them recently.
the law of diminishing returns does set in at some point:
The law of diminishing returns is a classic economic concept that states
that as more investment in an area is made, overall return on that
investment increases at a declining rate, assuming that all variables
remain fixed. To continue
On Monday, May 5, 2014 9:05:58 AM UTC-7, eflayer wrote:
the law of diminishing returns does set in at some point:
The law of diminishing returns is a classic economic concept that states
that as more investment in an area is made, overall return on that
investment increases at a
I use Phil FW hubs and they are zero maintenance , which is exactly why I
chose them for 2 sets of wheels (so far) . I was done cleaning and
adjusting cup/cone hubs in the early 80's when even my Stumpjumper came
with Specialized cartridge bearing hubs . The Phil CS hubs looks pretty
easy to
Hi Jim,
I would argue, cheap hubs work just as well as the most expensive hubs, so
any modern-designed, clean hub will maximize function. Maintenance of a
loose bearing hub is ~15 minutes, once a year or so, so I would argue that
is trivial too. Then it comes down to what appeals to you for
I chose to go with White Industries T11 for my latest build, not
particularly for utility, but because I wanted to maximize my bicycle's
domestic content, and I have the means to do so.
But DAMN SON THAT STUFF'S SHINY
cc
On Mon, May 5, 2014 at 10:03 AM, 'Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch
Some of the smoothest hubs I've ever ridden were old Campy Record that, as
far as the owner knew, hadn't been serviced for a decade or more.
The corollary to that experience is that I often look for older, used, high
quality hubs and buy them when they are cheap. (This method also pretty
much
I have Miche Racing box hubs on two of my bikes. They are pretty quiet, use
cartridge bearings and are made in Italy. The skewers are kinda of an
eyesore(for me, but easy to replace) but the hubs have seen a lot of dirty
rough miles without an issue. The SRAM/shimaNo version is only available
Gotta agree with you there. Old Campy hubs seem to roll smoothly virtually
forever. I also like the older (early to mid nineties Mavic 501's) and
those XC9000 suntour hubs Riv was blowing out.
I've also used older 600, RX100 and 105 hubs from Shimano and I can't
complain about them at all. I
Engagement is the only issue I find between Shimano hubs and boutique
hubs, but my experience of cassette hubs is pretty limited, due to a
long-lasting fixed gear obsession.
My Bontrager/King hubs have only been serviced once, about 10 years ago,
but the ring drive engagement is a real joy
I have a Deore LX hub on my Rivendell right now and the engagement is not
an issue. I had some older bikes a while back with Shimano hubs, a
Cannondale with 9 speed Ultegra everything on it and my Paul Taylor with
some older vintage DuraAce from the 90s and on both of those bikes it was
more
On Monday, May 5, 2014 3:16:36 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
I do have some Campy rear hubs sitting around but I have made the decision
not to use Campy stuff if I can avoid it because Campy parts are expensive.
I can buy two or three Shimano cassettes for the cost of a Campy cassette,
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