Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-07 Thread Clint Jay
Definitely, for a proven bad or dirt cheap leaded part when the board is valuable cut the legs. gives you an added advantage when removing the part as well as you can apply heat to both sides of the leg if it's through hole. On 5 November 2016 at 21:56, Mark Sims wrote: >

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-07 Thread Everett B. Fulton
I also use the double-iron method over hot air for tiny components. I use them like tweezers, yet with an improvement in dexterity. Liberal use of liquid or paste flux, in addition to what might be in the solder itself, is very helpful in obtaining good results. If you have the "SMT solder

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Bill Hawkins
So what are the odds that the failed cap would be C13? Is this cause for triskaidekaphobia? ;-) Please pardon this random excursion outside the bounds of precision time. Bill Hawkins (who learned not to let kakorraphiophobia lead me to osphresiolagnia [bad odors, not erotic] in

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread David
I usually find that the pad itself has enough tin plating to melt and adhere the part's termination so I tack it down like that, solder the second termination, and then go back and solder the first termination. On Mon, 7 Nov 2016 02:34:51 +, you wrote: >The best way to hand solder small SMT

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Tom Van Baak
Thank you everyone for the superb set of replies to this posting over the weekend. I'm sure I will have my 5071A boards working again shortly. Thanks also for the generous offers on- and off-list from people who do this professionally. The level of hands-on experience on this list is amazing.

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Christopher Hoover
+1 I only use tweezers for removal. I use the one-side-then-the-other technique described elsewhere in this thread for mounting parts. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to

[time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Mark Sims
The best way to hand solder small SMT parts is to put a blob of solder on one pad, position the part, old it down with something (fingernail works well, maybe tweezers), then touch that pad/solder blob with the iron. The blob should melt and the part should push down into the blob. Make

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Nathan Johnson
I run two Hakko 936 stations with 907 irons. I use the wide chisel tips, and just heat both sides at once. The two Hakko stations are cheaper than a set of Metcal tweezera(although I would love a set of those) Nathan KK4REY via Newton Mail

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread jimlux
On 11/6/16 4:17 PM, Hal Murray wrote: jim...@earthlink.net said: tweezers to remove single iron to install use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder each end. How many hands does that take? I normally use one to hold the iron and the other to apply solder. You can hold

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Robert LaJeunesse
I tear off a short piece of solder and push it up against the part (with orangewood stick) before picking up the iron. Bob LaJeunesse > Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2016 at 7:17 PM > From: "Hal Murray" > To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" >

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Hal Murray
jim...@earthlink.net said: > tweezers to remove > single iron to install > use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder each end. How many hands does that take? I normally use one to hold the iron and the other to apply solder. -- These are my opinions. I hate spam.

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Gerhard Hoffmann
Am 06.11.2016 um 22:16 schrieb Bryan _: By far the easiest method. https://youtu.be/3jxSKaIRhAQ That must be the guy who removes the e**y MV-89s from China from their boards. At least two of mine have scars that are best explained by such a tool. regards, Gerhard

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread jimlux
On 11/6/16 10:47 AM, Adrian Godwin wrote: You might also want normal cold tweezers to place the part. I'm not sure what an orange stick is, around here I'd use a wooden toothpick. Perhaps that's the same thing ! An orange stick is a piece of wood about 1/4" in diameter which has been tapered

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Graham / KE9H
If you are in a position where you are worried about damaging the PCB. (And I would really be worried cutting any part in half with cutters, or cutting leads off an IC with diagonal cutters.) For two leaded parts, "Hot tweezers" work fine. For parts with more leads, like ICs, you need hot air

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Bryan _
By far the easiest method. https://youtu.be/3jxSKaIRhAQ -=Bryan=- From: time-nuts on behalf of Scott Stobbe Sent: November 6, 2016 1:10 PM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Scott Stobbe
In the case of the rt7 (or knife soldering tips for other brands) you get a fine point that easily handles 30-32 awg wire, and the edge of the tip is a little over 100 thou long, so for parts 0805 and smaller you just lay the edge along the side of the component and heat both pads and swipe it to

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Bryan _
If the SMD is small enough I have found it easy to remove by just applying a blob of solder to one end, this will quickly gap over to the other lead, and the SMD component and solder ball just slides off the board. Only works on the very small components though. -=Bryan=-

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread William H. Fite
It's obvious you've never had a manicure, Adrian. An orangewood stick is an instrument for torturing the cuticles. Il faut soufrir pour etre belle! On Sunday, November 6, 2016, Adrian Godwin wrote: > You might also want normal cold tweezers to place the part. I'm not

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Adrian Godwin
You might also want normal cold tweezers to place the part. I'm not sure what an orange stick is, around here I'd use a wooden toothpick. Perhaps that's the same thing ! The Swiss Venus tweezers have a lovely finish and the ends always meet. There are probably others as good. If you get some

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread jimlux
On 11/6/16 9:24 AM, Scott Stobbe wrote: I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a component. tweezers to remove single iron to install use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Adrian Godwin
I agree - I find them totally useless for applying solder. I'd only use them for removing parts. To solder them, clean the pads as described here and solder one end at a time. On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 5:24 PM, Scott Stobbe wrote: > I would not recommend purchasing

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Scott Stobbe
I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a component. I do really like the Weller rt7 knife tip. On Sunday, 6 November 2016, Adrian Godwin wrote: > SMD parts aren't going

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Adrian Godwin
SMD parts aren't going to go away. It's worth investing in good tools to deal with them and learning the best way to use them. I'd put tweezers quite high on that list, and although the metcals are worthwhile if you can avoid full price, the chinese tweezers are surprisingly useful at very low

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Clint Jay
Heating one end and adding a little solder to the joint will allow you to lift the cap, the leads are folded over tabs so they'll bend nicely and allow the cap to lift, once you've got one end lifted, heat the other and it will come away easily. Clean up the pads with solder wick then you're

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Robert LaJeunesse
Another admittedly low-budget way of heating both ends is to use a heat spreader. Solder a short piece of braid to one component end, fold it over the top of the part, and solder it to the other end. Heat the braid in the center, add solder until both ends are melted, and lift the combination

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-06 Thread Christopher Hoover
Ditto. I use hot tweezers -- metcal talon handpiece, in my case. There are other ways to do it if you don't have them. On Nov 6, 2016 3:21 AM, "jimlux" wrote: > On 11/5/16 12:12 PM, Tom Van Baak wrote: > >> See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Andy ZL3AG via time-nuts
Yes. Unless you're grinding it away with a dremel (which I wouldn't recommend as far as chemical dust is concerned), nibbling away with sidecutters would be trying to force the 2 ends of the component apart. That may be stressing the pads they're soldered to, leading to a possible pad lifting

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Scott Stobbe
For through hole parts sure, but I would not recommend that on SMD parts, the copper foil of a little pad is pretty easy to tear off and it's a royal pain if you have to mount a device missing some of its landing pads. On Sat, Nov 5, 2016 at 4:37 PM, Tom Miller wrote:

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Ian Stirling
On 11/05/2016 03:12 PM, Tom Van Baak wrote: > Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the very > precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good excuse to buy? Tom, I used the obvious but never read about using two soldering irons, invented it

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Alexander Pummer
metcal has a "hot twizer " to remove SMD components it heats the component on both end 73 Alex On 11/5/2016 12:55 PM, Hal Murray wrote: t...@leapsecond.com said: Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread David
On Sat, 5 Nov 2016 20:57:11 +0100, you wrote: >> Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the very >> precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good excuse to buy? > >Now, for these caps, you can use a normal soldering-iron without too >much trouble, but

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread paul swed
So much information from so many that have obviously run into the smell of a burnt part. I do the cut the part to pieces and unsolder each leg. Also the 2 iron approach. The absolute goal, do not damage the board. I have a hot air station also and much like the comments made not impressed. I did

[time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Mark Sims
Tom's method is what I use when replacing commodity parts that I don't care about salvaging. Much less chance of damaging anything. Hack the part apart, cut the leads on gull wing packages, etc. Don't waste your time with tweezers, lifting one end, etc. I have a very nice set of hot

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Tom Miller
I usually nibble away at the center of the part until it is two separate pieces. Then unsolder each piece. Clean the pads off with wick then install the new part. Use a good sharp pair of flush cut side cutters. Tom - Original Message - From: "Bob Camp" To: "Tom Van

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Andrea Baldoni
On Sat, Nov 05, 2016 at 12:12:18PM -0700, Tom Van Baak wrote: > Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to > the very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good > excuse to buy? Hello Tom. I do this kind of repairs quite often and as you have already

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Bob Camp
Hi A *lot* depends on how many planes there are in that board. The weight of he copper also maters a bit. If there is enough thermal mass, you will need a pre-heat process. There are lots of ways to do it ranging from the kitchen oven to various “frame and lightbulb” setups and on into ever

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Tom Van Baak
Ok, thanks, Chris! Some day I'll learn SMT but I don't think it's wise for me to use a 5071 main board as my first mistake. So I'll follow-up with your generous offer off-list. /tvb - Original Message - From: Chris Waldrup To: Tom Van Baak ; Discussion of precise time and

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Chris Waldrup
Hi Tom, I'm a SMT rework technician for a large satcom and defense company. I have a shop at home too and all the equipment to repair this if I can be provided with the replacement cap. Please let me know if I can be of help. Chris KD4PBJ > On Nov 5, 2016, at 14:12, Tom Van Baak

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Magnus Danielson
Dear Tom, On 11/05/2016 08:12 PM, Tom Van Baak wrote: See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a few boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off the board. Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse -- but I don't think the 5071

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Hal Murray
t...@leapsecond.com said: > Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the > very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good excuse > to buy? If you can get at it, 2 soldering irons, one on each end, works reasonably well. When both ends are melted,

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Bob Stewart
Hi John, I've never used the hot tweezers.  I'm going to have to look into them.  Normally, for desoldering, I use a narrower nozzle with an elevated temperature - usually between 280C and 350C.  That blows the part completely off the pads just as soon as the solder flows, with little impact

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Bryan _
Surprisingly the 852D+ which is a very cheap rework station is quite good. Quite a few reviews on the EEVblog. -=Bryan=- From: time-nuts on behalf of Bob Stewart Sent: November 5, 2016 12:18 PM To: Tom Van Baak;

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread John Ackermann N8UR
Either hot tweezers or a hot air rework station are the best/easiest ways to remove dead parts. But two fine-tip soldering irons will also work and are a lot cheaper. The idea is to heat both ends of the part at once, and when the solder flows, lift or flip the part off. Then, use some

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Bruce Griffiths
On Saturday, November 05, 2016 12:12:18 PM Tom Van Baak wrote: > See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a few > boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off the > board. Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse -- but I > don't

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Adrian Godwin
Metcal /OKI might be that other brand. I'd certainly recommend them, but the tweezers are not as fast to heat as the single tip devices. I've had little success personally with the hot air devices. I seem to toast the board before I melt the solder, and when it does melt it's not limited to one

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread Bob Stewart
Hi Tom, Personally, I wouldn't touch this without a hot air gun.  I don't know what your budget is.  What I consider reasonable may be an order of magnitude smaller than for you.  So, I use a generically labeled 852D+ rework combo.  It has both solder pencil and hot air gun.  There are better

Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

2016-11-05 Thread jimlux
On 11/5/16 12:12 PM, Tom Van Baak wrote: See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a few boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off the board. Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse -- but I don't think the 5071 designers had