Definitely, for a proven bad or dirt cheap leaded part when the board is
valuable cut the legs. gives you an added advantage when removing the part
as well as you can apply heat to both sides of the leg if it's through
hole.
On 5 November 2016 at 21:56, Mark Sims wrote:
>
I also use the double-iron method over hot air for tiny components. I use them
like tweezers, yet with an improvement in dexterity.
Liberal use of liquid or paste flux, in addition to what might be in the solder
itself, is very helpful in obtaining good results. If you have the "SMT
solder
So what are the odds that the failed cap would be C13?
Is this cause for triskaidekaphobia? ;-)
Please pardon this random excursion outside the bounds of precision
time.
Bill Hawkins
(who learned not to let kakorraphiophobia lead me to osphresiolagnia
[bad odors, not erotic] in
I usually find that the pad itself has enough tin plating to melt and
adhere the part's termination so I tack it down like that, solder the
second termination, and then go back and solder the first termination.
On Mon, 7 Nov 2016 02:34:51 +, you wrote:
>The best way to hand solder small SMT
Thank you everyone for the superb set of replies to this posting over the
weekend. I'm sure I will have my 5071A boards working again shortly. Thanks
also for the generous offers on- and off-list from people who do this
professionally. The level of hands-on experience on this list is amazing.
+1
I only use tweezers for removal. I use the one-side-then-the-other
technique described elsewhere in this thread for mounting parts.
___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
The best way to hand solder small SMT parts is to put a blob of solder on one
pad, position the part, old it down with something (fingernail works well,
maybe tweezers), then touch that pad/solder blob with the iron. The blob
should melt and the part should push down into the blob. Make
I run two Hakko 936 stations with 907 irons. I use the wide chisel tips,
and just heat both sides at once. The two Hakko stations are cheaper than a
set of Metcal tweezera(although I would love a set of those)
Nathan KK4REY
via Newton Mail
On 11/6/16 4:17 PM, Hal Murray wrote:
jim...@earthlink.net said:
tweezers to remove
single iron to install
use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder each end.
How many hands does that take?
I normally use one to hold the iron and the other to apply solder.
You can hold
I tear off a short piece of solder and push it up against the part (with
orangewood stick) before picking up the iron.
Bob LaJeunesse
> Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2016 at 7:17 PM
> From: "Hal Murray"
> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
>
jim...@earthlink.net said:
> tweezers to remove
> single iron to install
> use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder each end.
How many hands does that take?
I normally use one to hold the iron and the other to apply solder.
--
These are my opinions. I hate spam.
Am 06.11.2016 um 22:16 schrieb Bryan _:
By far the easiest method.
https://youtu.be/3jxSKaIRhAQ
That must be the guy who removes the e**y MV-89s from China from their
boards.
At least two of mine have scars that are best explained by such a tool.
regards, Gerhard
On 11/6/16 10:47 AM, Adrian Godwin wrote:
You might also want normal cold tweezers to place the part. I'm not sure
what an orange stick is, around here I'd use a wooden toothpick. Perhaps
that's the same thing !
An orange stick is a piece of wood about 1/4" in diameter which has been
tapered
If you are in a position where you are worried about damaging the PCB.
(And I would really be worried cutting any part in half with cutters, or
cutting leads off an IC with diagonal cutters.)
For two leaded parts, "Hot tweezers" work fine.
For parts with more leads, like ICs, you need hot air
By far the easiest method.
https://youtu.be/3jxSKaIRhAQ
-=Bryan=-
From: time-nuts on behalf of Scott Stobbe
Sent: November 6, 2016 1:10 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
In the case of the rt7 (or knife soldering tips for other brands) you get a
fine point that easily handles 30-32 awg wire, and the edge of the tip is a
little over 100 thou long, so for parts 0805 and smaller you just lay the
edge along the side of the component and heat both pads and swipe it to
If the SMD is small enough I have found it easy to remove by just applying a
blob of solder to one end, this will quickly gap over to the other lead, and
the SMD component and solder ball just slides off the board. Only works on the
very small components though.
-=Bryan=-
It's obvious you've never had a manicure, Adrian.
An orangewood stick is an instrument for torturing the cuticles.
Il faut soufrir pour etre belle!
On Sunday, November 6, 2016, Adrian Godwin wrote:
> You might also want normal cold tweezers to place the part. I'm not
You might also want normal cold tweezers to place the part. I'm not sure
what an orange stick is, around here I'd use a wooden toothpick. Perhaps
that's the same thing !
The Swiss Venus tweezers have a lovely finish and the ends always meet.
There are probably others as good.
If you get some
On 11/6/16 9:24 AM, Scott Stobbe wrote:
I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them
first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a
component.
tweezers to remove
single iron to install
use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder
I agree - I find them totally useless for applying solder. I'd only use
them for removing parts. To solder them, clean the pads as described here
and solder one end at a time.
On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 5:24 PM, Scott Stobbe
wrote:
> I would not recommend purchasing
I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them
first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a
component.
I do really like the Weller rt7 knife tip.
On Sunday, 6 November 2016, Adrian Godwin wrote:
> SMD parts aren't going
SMD parts aren't going to go away. It's worth investing in good tools to
deal with them and learning the best way to use them.
I'd put tweezers quite high on that list, and although the metcals are
worthwhile if you can avoid full price, the chinese tweezers are
surprisingly useful at very low
Heating one end and adding a little solder to the joint will allow you to
lift the cap, the leads are folded over tabs so they'll bend nicely and
allow the cap to lift, once you've got one end lifted, heat the other and
it will come away easily.
Clean up the pads with solder wick then you're
Another admittedly low-budget way of heating both ends is to use a heat
spreader. Solder a short piece of braid to one component end, fold it over the
top of the part, and solder it to the other end. Heat the braid in the center,
add solder until both ends are melted, and lift the combination
Ditto. I use hot tweezers -- metcal talon handpiece, in my case. There
are other ways to do it if you don't have them.
On Nov 6, 2016 3:21 AM, "jimlux" wrote:
> On 11/5/16 12:12 PM, Tom Van Baak wrote:
>
>> See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown
Yes. Unless you're grinding it away with a dremel (which I wouldn't recommend
as far as chemical dust is concerned), nibbling away with sidecutters would be
trying to force the 2 ends of the component apart. That may be stressing the
pads they're soldered to, leading to a possible pad lifting
For through hole parts sure, but I would not recommend that on SMD parts,
the copper foil of a little pad is pretty easy to tear off and it's a royal
pain if you have to mount a device missing some of its landing pads.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2016 at 4:37 PM, Tom Miller wrote:
On 11/05/2016 03:12 PM, Tom Van Baak wrote:
> Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the very
> precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good excuse to buy?
Tom, I used the obvious but never read about using two soldering irons,
invented it
metcal has a "hot twizer " to remove SMD components it heats the
component on both end
73
Alex
On 11/5/2016 12:55 PM, Hal Murray wrote:
t...@leapsecond.com said:
Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the
very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this
On Sat, 5 Nov 2016 20:57:11 +0100, you wrote:
>> Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the very
>> precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good excuse to buy?
>
>Now, for these caps, you can use a normal soldering-iron without too
>much trouble, but
So much information from so many that have obviously run into the smell of
a burnt part.
I do the cut the part to pieces and unsolder each leg. Also the 2 iron
approach.
The absolute goal, do not damage the board.
I have a hot air station also and much like the comments made not impressed.
I did
Tom's method is what I use when replacing commodity parts that I don't care
about salvaging. Much less chance of damaging anything. Hack the part apart,
cut the leads on gull wing packages, etc. Don't waste your time with
tweezers, lifting one end, etc. I have a very nice set of hot
I usually nibble away at the center of the part until it is two separate
pieces. Then unsolder each piece. Clean the pads off with wick then install
the new part.
Use a good sharp pair of flush cut side cutters.
Tom
- Original Message -
From: "Bob Camp"
To: "Tom Van
On Sat, Nov 05, 2016 at 12:12:18PM -0700, Tom Van Baak wrote:
> Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to
> the very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good
> excuse to buy?
Hello Tom.
I do this kind of repairs quite often and as you have already
Hi
A *lot* depends on how many planes there are in that board. The weight of he
copper
also maters a bit. If there is enough thermal mass, you will need a pre-heat
process.
There are lots of ways to do it ranging from the kitchen oven to various “frame
and
lightbulb” setups and on into ever
Ok, thanks, Chris! Some day I'll learn SMT but I don't think it's wise for me
to use a 5071 main board as my first mistake. So I'll follow-up with your
generous offer off-list.
/tvb
- Original Message -
From: Chris Waldrup
To: Tom Van Baak ; Discussion of precise time and
Hi Tom,
I'm a SMT rework technician for a large satcom and defense company.
I have a shop at home too and all the equipment to repair this if I can be
provided with the replacement cap.
Please let me know if I can be of help.
Chris
KD4PBJ
> On Nov 5, 2016, at 14:12, Tom Van Baak
Dear Tom,
On 11/05/2016 08:12 PM, Tom Van Baak wrote:
See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a few
boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off the board.
Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse -- but I don't think
the 5071
t...@leapsecond.com said:
> Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the
> very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good excuse
> to buy?
If you can get at it, 2 soldering irons, one on each end, works reasonably
well. When both ends are melted,
Hi John,
I've never used the hot tweezers. I'm going to have to look into them.
Normally, for desoldering, I use a narrower nozzle with an elevated temperature
- usually between 280C and 350C. That blows the part completely off the pads
just as soon as the solder flows, with little impact
Surprisingly the 852D+ which is a very cheap rework station is quite good.
Quite a few reviews on the EEVblog.
-=Bryan=-
From: time-nuts on behalf of Bob Stewart
Sent: November 5, 2016 12:18 PM
To: Tom Van Baak;
Either hot tweezers or a hot air rework station are the best/easiest
ways to remove dead parts. But two fine-tip soldering irons will also
work and are a lot cheaper. The idea is to heat both ends of the part
at once, and when the solder flows, lift or flip the part off. Then,
use some
On Saturday, November 05, 2016 12:12:18 PM Tom Van Baak wrote:
> See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a
few
> boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off the
> board. Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse -- but I
> don't
Metcal /OKI might be that other brand. I'd certainly recommend them, but
the tweezers are not as fast to heat as the single tip devices.
I've had little success personally with the hot air devices. I seem to
toast the board before I melt the solder, and when it does melt it's not
limited to one
Hi Tom,
Personally, I wouldn't touch this without a hot air gun. I don't know what
your budget is. What I consider reasonable may be an order of magnitude
smaller than for you. So, I use a generically labeled 852D+ rework combo. It
has both solder pencil and hot air gun. There are better
On 11/5/16 12:12 PM, Tom Van Baak wrote:
See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a few
boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off the board.
Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse -- but I don't think
the 5071 designers had
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