Andre First before I answer, I understand there is a typo in this document and we are working on making corrections. Also when we transferred the information from our less artistic model (without the fancy graphic) we left off the disclaimer that states these are "Rules of Thumb" for fitting and not scientific facts proven by engineers or Scientists. These are my fitting tools that I use and have noted over the years while doing hundreds of fittings and looking at the Golf Achiever and FlightScope data for my customers. I have used them for many years and for fitting find this to be a good fitting tool. Some golfers do not respond as indicated. Please use them in that context.
Now, to your questions: Making heads heavier and making heads lighter. You are right it is much easier to add weight but you can go through the hosel plug and pour a liquid that you can get from Home Depot in the head and let it sit to dissolve the rat glue inside and remove some weight. I will try and find the name of the product. Also if the swing path is outside to in and you have to add a heavier shaft this may tilt the balance point to make this effective the same as lightening the head with some golfers. You can also shorten the shaft slightly if that his the only way to go. Like all things "golf" best club is often a trade off. Longer or more accurate? Consistency or longer hits when you get lucky? etc. Counter Balance: This is an excellent way to get from point A to point B for a golfer who doesn't want to buy a new club or clubs. You can find a pretty good improvement on existing clubs by counter balancing. When fitting I prefer to do it with changing shaft weights and head weights. I have a lot of shafts on Conex http://www.mcnixgolf.com/html/our_shop.html as shown in the video, and lots of heads too. In most brands I try to have all weights in all flexes but this is a goal and I add shaft each year to get closer to the goal. I hope to have as many weight in as many Manufacturers as possible to test with. For example the Aldila NV series, I have all weights in all flexes in both woods and irons to fit with. I am working on a set of fitting shafts in 10 gram increments in wood shafts that are now being developed to be the same butt cpm and same length. The profiles will naturally be different but we are attempting to get the butt cpms the same at cut length for weight testing purposes. Offset Heads: Yes when needed. I have a full set of offset Wishon fairways down to the 11 wood in my bag. I have a fused spine and as I get older I find it harder and harder to get the right shoulder to turn under and get the face square so I've gone to offset to help. MOI or SW match: I do both. It depends on the golfer. If they are new to golf or open minded I will MOI match, but if they have been playing for a long time and are resistant to change (especially if they are a player) I will SW match. We will have a replacement document up in a few days with the type corrected and the disclaimer added. I will post when we get it completed. Roy ----- Original Message ----- From: Art Woods Buroplus To: ShopTalk@mail.msen.com Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 8:18 AM Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Trackman Newsletter Thank you for posting the chart. http://www.agcpgolf.com/Ball_Flight_and_Club_Weight_for_fitting.pdf I have a couple questions if you don't mind. Adding weight to a head is not a problem but making a head lighter is not as easy. Some heads have removable weights but you can only remove so much. For head weight do you work in 2-4-6-8 gram increment? Or you have driver heads that weight in the 190 gram range? Same for fw woods? For shafts do you work in 10 gram increment? Do you counterbalance? Do you fit some golfers with offset heads? Do you MOI match or sw match? Thank you. André. ----- Original Message ----- From: Roy Nix - AGCP Director To: ShopTalk@mail.msen.com Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 9:35 AM Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Trackman Newsletter Don I agree. The ball doesn't know if you are a right hander hitting a draw or a left hander hitting a fade. The only thing the ball reacts to is the effective loft and spin. I've been fitting for straight shots for years and worked up this chart a good while back. http://www.agcpgolf.com/Ball_Flight_and_Club_Weight_for_fitting.pdf By adjusting the total weight and head weight to get what I call the right balance between the two I try to fit to get my golfers as close as possible to swinging right down the target line and getting the clubface square. If the best I can get is 3 of 4 degrees inside out or outside in so be it, change your alignment and hit straight shots. I fit one guy some time back and everything he hit with his 5 iron was about 10 or 15 feet to the right of the pin on my Golf Achiever. Shot after shot. I was happy and he was not. Finally he asked: "Are you going to fix the club so it goes at the pin"? So I walked up to him and took a silver sharpie and drew a line where his feet were pointing about 10 or 15 feet to the left of the pin and said: "Stand on the line and try it". He did and then laughed out loud and said: "I wonder how long it would have taken me to figure that out"? He dropped his handicap 4 or 5 shots. Everyone seems to be brainwashed into believing the right to left tour draw is the best shot. In spite of Trevino, Nicklaus, Miller Barber, Furyk and many others who won a lot of tour events with a fade or a fairly straight ball. Lots of happy customers tell me straight works. Roy ----- Original Message ----- From: Don M To: ShopTalk@mail.msen.com Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 8:56 AM Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Trackman Newsletter There is a lot of interesting stuff in there. I do not understand #6. Anyone? Also, a question I've had for a long time is, <all else being equal>, does a straight ball go farther than a curving ball? We have been conditioned to "know" that draws go farther. Because they fly lower and/or run out more. But, if a person is fitted so that his draw starts with the same launch angle and other launch numbers as a straight hit, wouldn't the straight hit actually go farther? In other words, the only reason a draw or pull goes farther and a push or fade goes shorter than a straight ball is because of the change in effective loft at impact? And if you make that effective loft equal across all cases, the straight ball HAS to go the farthest. This is what I think I've seen in a seat of the pants way. -Don M -------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ed Reeder <e_ree...@mailup.net> To: clubmaker online <ShopTalk@mail.msen.com> Sent: Fri, October 29, 2010 2:57:08 PM Subject: ShopTalk: Trackman Newsletter Here is a newsletter from Trackman. It has many good articles http://www.trackman.dk/download/newsletter/newsletter7.pdf Their 10 Fundamentals of Ball Flight is very interesting. One surprising factor is that your angle of attack (hitting up or down on the ball) has an effect on creating a "zero club path". Lot of good stuff here. Also interesting to read is their "Trackman Combine", which is a way to measure a golfer's accuracy and distance control (they say shot making, but I have to disagree). /Ed -- Shoptalk ** Sponsored by the new Aldila Voodoo. Learn more at http://aldilavoodoo.com/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1153 / Virus Database: 424/3226 - Release Date: 10/29/10
