Your machine produces ions at a linear rate once the water gains enough conductivity to level the transistorized "current control" circuit off to it's max current output of 1 milliamp. It will "ramp up to current" and the LED on top will get brighter and brighter from "dim" but it doesn't get any brighter than if you had the electrodes dead shorted together....... once there, pulling the max current, it does not make CS faster and faster. The "ramp up to current" time is a huge variable where only a slight difference in water quality makes a big difference in that "getting started" time period, sometimes several hours. Therefore, the better the water, and the more of it there is...the longer it takes.

If the water isn't "pulling full current" the LED will be dim and will get dimmer immediately as you extract the electrode from the water. Since electrode surface area and electrode distance, both constants, are the second and third elements in an interdependent triangle of variables...how far you pull the electrodes out of the water before the LED starts dimming, tells you HOW good, or bad, the water is, about how far along the process is at any given time..and when you have reached full current draw where "ramp up to current" is no longer a variable time factor.

If the LED isn't dim with the electrodes barely touching the water, that's around 20 uS conductivity [or more] and the gen will shut down soon.

The auto off typically shuts the machine down at 20 uS conductivity.
That conductivity will drop back in a while to around 10 uS in a quart batch and around 12 uS in a pint batch as the silver water "stabilizes"
"uS" is Microseimens of conductivity
Once it stabilizes, the uS conductivity meter reading "number" is very close to the PPM "number" as established by an instrument that actually can detect silver content [AA Spectrophotometer]...which no meter does.

If you are using a PPM or TDS meter, that number should be approximately doubled to get what the meter really reads..conductivity. If you have a COM-100 meter, use it in the conductivity mode [uS], not PPM mode.

If it reads under 10 PPM [using a PPM meter ] you can re-run the batch back up to 20 uS and it will drop back half as much each time that is done.
 Your 5 reading will then be around 7 or 8 or 14-16 PPM "silver"
Each time that is done, you get closer to 20 PPM at auto off. [ A PPM/TDS meter will read around 10 ]

A PPM meter is designed to be used in mineral salt water..CS is not salt water. Your statement of 5 when it should be 10, indicates it's a PPM/TDS meter and you don't know how to use your meter.

If you chart how long a given volume of water takes to go from , say, 4 to 5, [that's 8 to 10 uS ] that will give you a conductivity rise rate and since that rate is constant.... that can be used to extrapolate conductivity beyond the Auto Off settings max conductivity, using time.[you didn't mention batch size but I'll assume its a quart because what your meter reads, if it's a PPM meter, is consistent with the drop back from 20 uS in a quart... the volume of water plays a role as well]
However.
The saturation limits of the water and the fact that a meter doesn't register particles says that a meter won't read properly past around 30 uS. [15 PPM on a TDS meter] It will read lower and lower than what silver content is actually in the water..but the ions are still being shed by the electrodes at a constant rate. therefore, the silver is in the water.

Very confusing, but the fax is de fax.
The generators Auto Off circuit works just like the meter, but meters don't measure PPM and the numbers aren't the same till tomorrow....so..there are [usually predictable] "nuances" involved. It is possible to get 20 PPM out of the Auto Off setting by re-running a batch after it stabilizes till the generator just won't run anymore.
 That takes a lot of waiting.
 At some point 20 uS = 20 PPM

Or

You can use the meter to establish drop back in a given volume of water from a given immediate conductivity and note how long past Auto Off it takes to get to the conductivity you want it to drop back from. If the water is about the same every time, that time will be about the same, every time.

Another way is to establish when full current draw has been reached and the ion production rate has gone linear [at, if I recollect, at around 6 uS conductivity ] and use the Faraday calculator to mathematically predict time for any desired PPM.

Ode


At 10:18 AM 6/24/2009 -0400, you wrote:
Ode

With our puppy it takes approximately five to six hours to make 5ppm. I have read that the ppm's increase more quickly as it processes, some suggest seeding a new batch with cs to shorten the time. Approximately how much longer would you guess it would take to make 10ppm's on the manual setting? Nothing written in stone just a suggestion.

Dianne



> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2009 04:41:55 -0400
> To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> From: odecoy...@windstream.net
> Subject: RE: CS>Am I on the wrong list?
>
> At 11:59 PM 6/23/2009 +1030, you wrote:
> >OK, Thanks for that.
> >
> >I guess the 'pup' has a manual switch for this purpose i.e. 'bad' water?
> >
> >N.
>
>
> ## That...and for making the CS as strong as YOU want to make it.
>
> Ode
>
> >
> > > Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 07:35:07 -0400
> > > To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> > > From: odecoy...@windstream.net
> > > Subject: RE: CS>Am I on the wrong list?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Both generators require good water.
> > > Rain water is natures distilled, but it comes in a very dirty
> > > container...the air.
> > > Let it rain a while before collecting it and it CAN BE good enough.
> > > The silvergen has no provision for using "bad" water in a pinch, the Pup
> > > does.
> > >
> > >
> > > Ode
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > At 08:42 AM 6/23/2009 +1030, you wrote:
> > > >Does the purity or quality of water have an effect on how this machine
> > runs?
> > > >I'm basically asking:
> > > >a) will it work in rain water or does one need to use Distilled Water
> > > >only...Yes/No? and
> > > >b) will it function OK with just any Distilled Water or would one need to
> > > >source the *purest* or *best* quality DW available...Yes/No?
> > > >
> > > >N.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >----------
> > > >From: berte...@lfdcbham.com
> > > >To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> > > >Subject: Re: CS>Am I on the wrong list?
> > > >Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 16:55:29 -0500
> > > >
> > > >Hey Joyce,
> > > >
> > > >I have a Silver Puppy generator and absolutely love it - couldn't be any
> > > >easier to set up and use! Go to
> > > ><http://www.silverpuppy.com/>www.silverpuppy.com for info and pricing.
> > > >
> > > >Hope this helps!
> > > >Ruth
> > > >
> > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > >From: <mailto:jgra...@nc.rr.com>Joyce Grace
> > > >To: <mailto:silver-list@eskimo.com>silver-list@eskimo.com
> > > >Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 4:22 PM
> > > >Subject: CS>Am I on the wrong list?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Hi,
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >I may have submitted my CS question to the incorrect list. I have not
> > > >noticed any info about CS production in any of your attachments. I
> > wish to
> > > >find info on the home manufacturing of this product. Don't know anything > > > >about chemistry or polarity. My daughter has MS and CS was recommended to
> > > >her by our herbalist acupuncture friend Ed, now living in Cary, NC. He
> > > >also gave me your email address. Is there a fairly simple machine that I
> > > >can load up and let do its thing? Or, is this project more like making
> > > >Kombucha Tea or fermented foods? We have purchased a few months supply of > > > >CS to see if there is help to be had from it and also to give me time to
> > > >figure this thing out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Joyce
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >----------
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> > > --
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