Krister,
I don't think I can improve on David's excellent description, but if I add
one of my own, between us all, we might get you assembled! Indeed, if you could
find someone to help assemble, just for the first time, it would be very useful
to see how the finished thing fits together. However, if this is difficult for
you to arrange, then you must keep coming back to the list and, eventually, we
will sort it! So don't give up yet.
My problem is that I can't remember exactly how the SSP looked when it
first arrived, so I hope I don't confuse you further!!
1. With the folded SSP flat on the table in front of you, there should be a
short piece of cable protruding from the furthest, right-hand corner.
2. If you feel for a narrow flap, this runs along the length of the SSP, but is
only about 3 inches (say 7 cm) across, lift this flap away from you so that it
and the larger flap it is part of, opens out toward the back of the SSP and is
laying flat on the table toward the back of the SSP.
3. Now lift the next flap you find and open it out to your left and lay it flat
on the table, it will stick out to the left of the SSP.
4. Now take the last flap, which will open up and over to your right. This is a
double flap, so it will open out twice and is twice the lengther of the flap
that you have alrready opened out to your left.
5. You should now have a shape in front of you with the central rectangular
base. With a flap opened to the left of it. You should have another flap opened
out to the right and this one is twice the length of the one on the left,
because half of this longer flap is going to be the top of your SSP. and in the
centre of the second part of this long flap is the hole for the camera to see
through. Lastly, there should be a flap at the back of the central base which
is opened out away from you and which has a secondary, smaller flap as part of
it.
5. Lift the left hand flap so that is is vertical and hold it there with your
left hand.
6. Now lift the flap on the right, taking hold of it toward its furthest end
and lift it so that the first part is roughly vertical and the second flap
folds toward the flap you are holding with your left hand. Thus forming a top
to your box.
7. Using both hands, fold the little flap at the end of this top piece over
the top edge of the left hand flap. There are magnets in this part of the top
and they will be attracted to the magnets which are also toward the top of the
left hand flap. I find I might have to slide the two together a little until I
can feel that they have found each other, these magnets. Also, the cable should
now be poking out at the top left of your wobbly box!
8. you should now have a wobbly construction with no back and no front and this
is when we will start to strengthen it!
Running vertically up the front of the two sides which are now standing up, you
should find two triangles, they are long and attached to the sides of the box
sides that are standing up. Bend these gently so that they form the beginning
of a sort of frame to the front of your box and then bend the flap that you
will find is now protruding from the top/lid of the box. This flap, when bent
down over the two triangle flaps will stay in place once the magnets find each
other.
So now we have just the back to deal with.
8. Lift the back flap up,keeping the little flap open and flat. If you do this
lifting with your left hand, then with your right, gently fold in the two long
triangles, similar to those at the front of the box, so that they are making a
sort of frame at the back of the box, just like at the front, the top flat will
also bend down to meet them, but this time, the magnets will not find each
other until you press the back (held with your left hand) flat against them.
This is because the magnets holding the back together are in that top flap of
the back and the magnets of the two long triangles. The top flap that your bent
down, which is attached to the lid of your box doesn't have any magnets in it,
but is merely sandwitched between the back and the long triangles.
In short, Ha! The part of the box that holds it firm is the frame that you
make with these triangles. It sounds like you have got the general shape going
OK, but have not done the triangles properly.
Please get back to the list if it still won't stand firm for you, as it
would be such a shame to give up when you are so close!
Sandy.
Sent from my iPhone
On 28 Mar 2013, at 14:47, Sieghard Weitzel <siegh...@live.ca> wrote:
> Hi Krister,
>
> David posted instructions just yesterday, I have pasted them below. Maybe
> they will help, but David also points out that it is apparently relatively
> straight forward for a sighted person, so maybe ask a friend or family
> member to figure it out and then show you. I haven't received mine yet
> although it should come soon, so until I do I can't help myself other than
> to forward you David's explanation:
>
> When set up properly, the StandScan Pro creates a nice box which is decently
> stable. It took me about half an hour to figure out how to unfold, open, and
> lock it in position. I can now do it much more quickly.
>
> 1) Lay the closed package flat with the flap face up.
> 2) Open the flap.
> 3) open the central piece by unfolding it straight down from the flap.
> 4) Flip out the two side flaps. One side unfolds twice.
> 5) At this point, the bottom is the rectangle with three attachments. The
> back is the attachment that does not have an opposite side. If the back is
> away from you, the top is the rectangle all the way to the right. If you
> have the Pro version, the top has the LED light bar and the power chord on
> it. On all pieces except the bottom, there are magnets which are in areas
> with fold lines. The two magnets on the bottom are for locking the StandScan
> closed after folding up.
> 6) When opening, the fold in the back segment is straightened.
> 7) Find the fold creases on the left side panel. There is one on each side
> when the panel is brought to vertical. Eventually, you will fold both flaps
> to 90 degrees. The creases contain the round magnets on the left panel.
> Note: the same is true for the right side panel.
> 8) Bring the back panel and the left panel to vertical. The back crease in
> the left panel folded to 90 degrees means the magnets in the fold section
> match up with the magnets in the back left side. When connected together,
> You have a firm connection for two sides and the bottom.
> 9) Fold the back crease on the right side flap to 90 degrees. This will
> allow the right side to slide in front of the back side so the magnets on
> the right side connect with the back; just like the left side connects with
> the back.
> 10) Bring the top up and over the top of the box. make sure the back flap on
> the right side comes in front of the back side. When the magnets connect,
> the box is now rather sturdy.
> 11) Before connecting the top, make sure the chord for the LED lights is in
> the small groove for it on the left back side top corner.
> 12) Fold the flap on the top that extends beyond the back down so its
> magnets connect with the magnets on the back.
> 13) Fold the left and right front side flaps 90 degrees into the box. In
> other words, these flaps fold the same direction as the back flaps.
> 14) Fold the top flaps on the front and left sides down so they connect with
> their corresponding side magnets.
>
> When done properly, you have a container that provides a stable shelf to
> place your phone on for taking images for OCR. The round hole for the camera
> is in the middle of the box. It is your job to place the phone so the camera
> is properly aligned. I make sure the side of my iPhone is the same distance
> back from the front edge of the box along its entire length. The LED lights
> are all the way across the back of the box, when open, so light is spread
> evenly across the page being scanned. Note: if you are still unable to make
> the box stand, have a sighted person set it up and then show you. Visually,
> it is straight-forward to set up.
>
> Finally, a note on the material. The website clearly states the StandScan is
> laminated cardboard. This means, cardboard with a thin film of plastic
> bonded to it. Only the outside of the box has the plastic film on it. This
> did not make sense to me until I remembered that plastic is nice and shiny
> reflective. Such reflectivity inside the box can cause glare, which might
> wash out the print image. Cardboard, on the other hand, causes defuse light,
> so the text image will be much clearer.
>
> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
> Mobile: +64 21 2288 288
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: viphone@googlegroups.com [mailto:viphone@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
> Of Krister Ekstrom
> Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2013 7:31 AM
> To: viphone@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Standscan pro - I admit defeat
>
> Hi all.
> I knew i was stupid, and that if on a web site, it says that setting up
> something is as easy as pie, then i will be fighting with the damn thing for
> weeks on end without succeeding. This is the case with the Standscan pro. If
> i set it up as it looks to be set up and then put my Iphone 4s on it, the
> box will budge and start leaning towards me with the result that the iphone
> falls off before i even can make an attempt at scanning with it. There is
> obviously something my stupid pea sized brain can not fathom, and it's
> probably really easy but i'm too dumb to understand it, so i guess i'll just
> admit defeat and use a desk top scanner or something. But before i deem the
> Standscan pro worthless, i will once more beg for help on this list. I need
> really simple step-by-step total idiots guide to putting the standscan
> together, because even after Annes good explanation of how to do it, i still
> can not get it to work, it just isn't stable enough.
> /Krister
>
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