Hi.

Normally I am a good builder, I love taking things apart and put them together 
again. This one took me an afternoon and an evening, but I can do it now. I 
needed to find the system. 1 important thing is to be sure the flaps are folded 
corectly and folded enough. I think I would recommend to have a sighted person 
to fold it the first time, mine was in fact a little difficult.

I have got an idea, if it was possible to get magnetsthat are a little 
different, so that the equal magnets should fit together. I also think I will 
recommend that if they on standscan know a standscan has been ordered by a 
blind, that they fold it the first time, because when it is much easier when 
you will have to fold it again.

Best regards Annie.
On Apr 2, 2013, at 7:40 PM, Sandratomkins <sandratomk...@googlemail.com> wrote:

> Annie,
> 
>     Sorry you are having problems, stick with it! I am forwarding to the list 
> both my description and that excellent one of David. They are both using a 
> different style, so hopefully, between the two, you might have more success! 
> Take it one step at a time and remember, the flap with the whole in it is the 
> lig of your box. Once this lid is in position, the little cable should be 
> sticking out from the far left corner.
> 
>     Fingers crossed for you,
>     Sandy. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> Begin forwarded message:
> 
>> From: Sandratomkins <sandratomk...@googlemail.com>
>> Date: 28 March 2013 16:09:14 GMT
>> To: "viphone@googlegroups.com" <viphone@googlegroups.com>
>> Subject: Re: Standscan pro - I admit defeat
>> 
>> Krister,
>> 
>>    I don't think I can improve on David's excellent description, but if I 
>> add one of my own, between us all, we might get you assembled! Indeed, if 
>> you could find someone to help assemble, just for the first time, it would 
>> be very useful to see how the finished thing fits together. However, if this 
>> is difficult for you to arrange, then you must keep coming back to the list 
>> and, eventually, we will sort it! So don't give up yet.
>> 
>>    My problem is that I can't remember exactly how the SSP looked when it 
>> first arrived, so I hope I don't confuse you further!!
>> 
>> 1. With the folded SSP flat on the table in front of you, there should be a 
>> short piece of cable protruding from the furthest, right-hand corner.
>> 
>> 2. If you feel for a narrow flap, this runs along the length of the SSP, but 
>> is only about 3 inches (say 7 cm) across, lift this flap away from you so 
>> that it and the larger flap it is part of, opens out toward the back of the 
>> SSP and is laying flat on the table toward the back of the SSP.
>> 3. Now lift the next flap you find and open it out to your left and lay it 
>> flat on the table, it will stick out to the left of the SSP.
>> 4. Now take the last flap, which will open up and over to your right. This 
>> is a double flap, so it will open out twice and is twice the lengther of the 
>> flap that you have alrready opened out to your left.
>> 5. You should now have a shape in front of you with the central rectangular 
>> base. With a flap opened to the left of it. You should have another flap 
>> opened out to the right and this one is twice the length of the one on the 
>> left, because half of this longer flap is going to be the top of your SSP. 
>> and in the centre of the second part of this long flap is the hole for the 
>> camera to see through. Lastly, there should be a flap at the back of the 
>> central base which is opened out away from you and which has a secondary, 
>> smaller flap as part of it.
>> 
>> 5. Lift the left hand flap so that is is vertical and hold it there with 
>> your left hand.
>> 6. Now lift the flap on the right, taking hold of it toward its furthest end 
>> and lift it so that the first part is roughly vertical and the second flap 
>> folds toward the flap you are holding with your left hand. Thus forming a 
>> top to your box.
>> 7. Using both hands, fold  the little flap at the end of this top piece over 
>> the top edge of the left hand flap. There are magnets in this part of the 
>> top and they will be attracted to the magnets which are also toward the top 
>> of the left hand flap. I find I might have to slide the two together a 
>> little until I can feel that they have found each other, these magnets. 
>> Also, the cable should now be poking out at the top left of your wobbly box!
>> 8. you should now have a wobbly construction with no back and no front and 
>> this is when we will start to strengthen it!
>> Running vertically up the front of the two sides which are now standing up, 
>> you should find two triangles, they are long and attached to the sides of 
>> the box sides that are standing up. Bend these gently so that they form the 
>> beginning of a sort of frame to the front of your box and then bend the flap 
>> that you will find is now protruding from the top/lid of the box. This flap, 
>> when bent down over the two triangle flaps will stay in place once the 
>> magnets find each other. 
>> So now we have just the back to deal with.
>> 8. Lift the back flap up,keeping the little flap open and flat. If you do 
>> this lifting with your left hand, then with your right, gently fold in the 
>> two long triangles, similar to those at the front of the box, so that they 
>> are making a sort of frame at the back of the box, just like at the front, 
>> the top flat will also bend down to meet them, but this time, the magnets 
>> will not find each other until you press the back (held with your left hand) 
>> flat against them. This is because the magnets holding the back together are 
>> in that top flap of the back and the magnets of the two long triangles. The 
>> top flap that your bent down, which is attached to the lid of your box 
>> doesn't have any magnets in it, but is merely sandwitched between the back 
>> and the long triangles.
>> 
>>    In short, Ha! The part of the box that holds it firm is the frame that 
>> you make with these triangles. It sounds like you have got the general shape 
>> going OK, but have not done the triangles properly.
>> 
>>    Please get back to the list if it still won't stand firm for you, as it 
>> would be such a shame to give up when you are so close!
>> 
>>    Sandy. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On 28 Mar 2013, at 14:47, Sieghard Weitzel <siegh...@live.ca> wrote:
>> 
>>> Hi Krister,
>>> 
>>> David posted instructions just yesterday, I have pasted them below. Maybe
>>> they will help, but David also points out that it is apparently relatively
>>> straight forward for a sighted person, so maybe ask a friend or family
>>> member to figure it out and then show you. I haven't received mine yet
>>> although it should come soon, so until I do I can't help myself other than
>>> to forward you David's explanation:
>>> 
>>> When set up properly, the StandScan Pro creates a nice box which is decently
>>> stable. It took me about half an hour to figure out how to unfold, open, and
>>> lock it in position. I can now do it much more quickly.
>>> 
>>> 1) Lay the closed package flat with the flap face up.
>>> 2) Open the flap.
>>> 3) open the central piece by unfolding it straight down from the flap.
>>> 4) Flip out the two side flaps. One side unfolds twice.
>>> 5) At this point, the bottom is the rectangle with three attachments. The
>>> back is the attachment that does not have an opposite side. If the back is
>>> away from you, the top is the rectangle all the way to the right. If you
>>> have the Pro version, the top has the LED light bar and the power chord on
>>> it. On all pieces except the bottom, there are magnets which are in areas
>>> with fold lines. The two magnets on the bottom are for locking the StandScan
>>> closed after folding up.
>>> 6) When opening, the fold in the back segment is straightened.
>>> 7) Find the fold creases on the left side panel. There is one on each side
>>> when the panel is brought to vertical. Eventually, you will fold both flaps
>>> to 90 degrees. The creases contain the round magnets on the left panel.
>>> Note: the same is true for the right side panel.
>>> 8) Bring the back panel and the left panel to vertical. The back crease in
>>> the left panel folded to 90 degrees means the magnets in the fold section
>>> match up with the magnets in the back left side. When connected together,
>>> You have a firm connection for two sides and the bottom.
>>> 9) Fold the back crease on the right side flap to 90 degrees. This will
>>> allow the right side to slide in front of the back side so the magnets on
>>> the right side connect with the back; just like the left side connects with
>>> the back.
>>> 10) Bring the top up and over the top of the box. make sure the back flap on
>>> the right side comes in front of the back side. When the magnets connect,
>>> the box is now rather sturdy.
>>> 11) Before connecting the top, make sure the chord for the LED lights is in
>>> the small groove for it on the left back side top corner.
>>> 12) Fold the flap on the top that extends beyond the back down so its
>>> magnets connect with the magnets on the back.
>>> 13) Fold the left and right front side flaps 90 degrees into the box. In
>>> other words, these flaps fold the same direction as the back flaps.
>>> 14) Fold the top flaps on the front and left sides down so they connect with
>>> their corresponding side magnets.
>>> 
>>> When done properly, you have a container that provides a stable shelf to
>>> place your phone on for taking images for OCR. The round hole for the camera
>>> is in the middle of the box. It is your job to place the phone so the camera
>>> is properly aligned. I make sure the side of my iPhone is the same distance
>>> back from the front edge of the box along its entire length. The LED lights
>>> are all the way across the back of the box, when open, so light is spread
>>> evenly across the page being scanned. Note: if you are still unable to make
>>> the box stand, have a sighted person set it up and then show you. Visually,
>>> it is straight-forward to set up.
>>> 
>>> Finally, a note on the material. The website clearly states the StandScan is
>>> laminated cardboard. This means, cardboard with a thin film of plastic
>>> bonded to it. Only the outside of the box has the plastic film on it. This
>>> did not make sense to me until I remembered that plastic is nice and shiny
>>> reflective. Such reflectivity inside the box can cause glare, which might
>>> wash out the print image. Cardboard, on the other hand, causes defuse light,
>>> so the text image will be much clearer.
>>> 
>>> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
>>> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
>>> Mobile: +64 21 2288 288
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: viphone@googlegroups.com [mailto:viphone@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
>>> Of Krister Ekstrom
>>> Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2013 7:31 AM
>>> To: viphone@googlegroups.com
>>> Subject: Standscan pro - I admit defeat
>>> 
>>> Hi all.
>>> I knew i was stupid, and that if on a web site, it says that setting up
>>> something is as easy as pie, then i will be fighting with the damn thing for
>>> weeks on end without succeeding. This is the case with the Standscan pro. If
>>> i set it up as it looks to be set up and then put my Iphone 4s on it, the
>>> box will budge and start leaning towards me with the result that the iphone
>>> falls off before i even can make an attempt at scanning with it. There is
>>> obviously something my stupid pea sized brain can not fathom, and it's
>>> probably really easy but i'm too dumb to understand it, so i guess i'll just
>>> admit defeat and use a desk top scanner or something. But before i deem the
>>> Standscan pro worthless, i will once more beg for help on this list. I need
>>> really simple step-by-step total idiots guide to putting the standscan
>>> together, because even after Annes good explanation of how to do it, i still
>>> can not get it to work, it just isn't stable enough.
>>> /Krister
>>> 
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