>… to vent the fresh-water tanks to the interior of the boat. I did this on Calypso, running both fresh-water tank vents forward into the anchor locker. In the unlikely event of over filling a tank the vented water would end up in the anchor locker bilge and be pumped over board. I do need to double check the vent hose run as there are a few low spots where water can collect. It has not been a problem over the last +-15 years but it is easy to prevent.
I do recommend moving the fuel tank vent away from the toe rail. I did place both holding tank vents just below the toe rail (one each side) as the risk of a vacuum or syphon being created is low and a little clean water in the holding tank might be a bonus. Martin DeYoung Calypso 1971 C&C 43 Seattle [Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F] From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 5:15 PM To: Paul Eugenio via CnC-List Cc: Dave Godwin Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned Following this great recounting of the race and subsequent discussion got me to thinking about venting issues. They’re on my list of to-do’s on my refit and dove-tail with some things I’ve been rolling around in my mind. Given that all my external vents and hoses have been removed and are awaiting replacement, I’ve been thinking that I may do what Passport yachts does which is to vent the fresh-water tanks to the interior of the boat. This sounds like what David Risch may have done. The other critical vent is for the fuel tank which exits high on the starboard side, approximately at the forward end of the cockpit just under the toe-rail. I’m considering moving that vent to inside the starboard propane locker which is under the helmsman’s starboard seat. Not much of a distance aft from the original location. This would put it out of burying seas on port tack and it has the added benefit that if there are overflow issues it would let the fuel exit out the external through-hull at the base of propane locker rather than into a cabin space. As regards the solent stay for heavy weather, I discussed this at length with a buddy who worked for Forespar and his suggestion was to have a storm sail built with an integral stay that would attach to the toe-rail and hoist on the second jib halyard. Granted, this is a storm comfort/survival setup as opposed to a racing (pointing…) option. I don’t race my boat so not a concern. Food for thought and opinions welcome given that I’m in ongoing rebuild mode. Best, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit<http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:05 AM, David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: David, I have done numerous Bermuda races aboard Corsair. Some suggestions; (2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did repeatedly) the engine instruments are going to get wet. This is not good as the switches will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or creating a waterproof cover. Same problem. Covered it with the plastic used on cars to protect the paint on the nose. Conforms to the panel pretty well. Not perfect but keeps the most of the water out of the electrics. Can still hear alarm too. (4) The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but by the time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I siphoned out). Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the vent -- the question is where? It may not be wise but on the return trip I wrapped the vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I would have removed) A better solution is needed. I vent water tanks internally when going offshore. After fueling perhaps vent it internally as high under decks as possible with a valve to close when engine off to avoid extreme weather spillage. (5) Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time screwing up enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out. My current reefing system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the boom which makes the first reef fine but I used all three reef points and releasing the last reef before pulling in the next in 35-40 kn of breeze is a nightmare. I need to work on leading the lines to the cockpit. A cam cleat just forward of winch to relieve the reef line under load may help. (6) A removable inner forestay and a blade foresail might be nice. My new furling 130 spent a lot of time furled 50% and that really has screwed up the shape of my formerly new and now blown out 130. I installed a solent stay for storm jib and the #4. Best thing I ever did. Contact me off-line if you need details (11) Getting a decent weather (GRIB) file occasionally would have been really helpful. I suppose I need to figure out how to do a SSB or Sat phone modem. I rent a SatPhone from satelitephonestore.com<http://satelitephonestore.com> who explained how to download the small Grib files from Passage Weather to a laptop. Easy and effective. Hope that helps. David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell)
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