I'm certainly not an expert on the subject - but I'd suggest reading extensive info on the topic here  https://www.morganscloud.com/2017/02/27/the-right-tethers-to-keep-us-aboard-part-2-construction-and-hardware/

Yes it's a pay site - but Attainable Adventure Cruising has a ton of info.  Recently updated a entire online book on staying on board.  The book digs into the forces involved, proper jack lines and hard points etc.  The authors make the argument that hitting hard up against most tethers will do some serious damage and dragging will kill you - the best solution is a system that stops you from getting overboard in the first place.  It's not a "do it this way" recommendation - but a discussion on what might work and

BTW - I get no financial return from referring people to the site - just a satisfied customer.

Mark

CS 30 Prosecco


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2017-03-27 1:46 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Graham — it depends a bit on your boat’s setup; but basically you want the backlines to start and end about six feet from the ends of the boat, so you don’t get dragged behind the boat if you go over.  On my boat, the previous owner put a padeye on the foredeck aft of the bow a ways; I use one continuous length of webbing, running it through a locking carabiner attached to that bow padeye.  The aft ends go to other padeyes mounted forward of the transom on either side deck.  These get tied off under some tension.  Other boats use cleats aft.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 27, 2017, at 11:35 AM, Graham Young via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Fred, your link to the flat webbing...what kind of attachments/fasteners to you use for this kind of webbing.  I see some of the jack lines are sold with loops on the ends?



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