Don't knowabout the stops but Touche' originally had the engine controls on the starboard bulkhead also. I moved them to the pedestal when I repowered with the diesel. Ifilled thehole with a fuel guage.
Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Jan 23, 2019, 7:31 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: > Dennis, > > Thanks for the info, I'm going to have to look into my steering, also most > likely also 47 yrs without an overhaul. > > I note two differences between your system and mine: > - instead of bolts through the chain to limit the travel, mine has an > aluminum plate bolted to the underside of the quadrant with "fingers" on > each side which in turn contact a plate on each side of a centerline > upright at the limiting angle, > -while your system has the engine controls in the pedestal, mine has them > completely separate on the starboard side of the after cockpit. > > Makes me wonder if C&C had different methods, particularly the angle stop, > or if one was modified by a PO. > > Neil Gallagher > Weatherly 35-1 > Glen Cove, NY > > > > On 1/23/2019 3:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > > Well, I disassembled Touche's steering system yesterday for a loooong > overdue maintenance session. As in it's never been done in 47 years! > Touche's steering system is by Morch. > > If you haven't checked your steering system, maybe this will inspire you > to do so. > > Oh, no! Someone stole my pedestal!! > https://drive.google.com/open?id=12p-nlp8FEwqR0zhDrqlHqxkb7UMa0iSx > > I hope you find this helpful. I found some items of concern. > > Concern 1. One of the steering cables had a broken strand. > > - See: > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Mu-dmCnPnDFdd5jGHnkBAGSqbGL6jnrw > - The break occurred where the cable made a sharp bend around the > quadrant just before the adjusting stud. > - See: > > http://www.bwsailing.com/bw/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Edson-Quadrant-Dwg.jpg > - A buddy of mine who recently rebuilt the system in his Hans > Christian 38 said he saw the same on his > > Concern 2. Some of the teeth on the chain sprocket were damaged. This > was a complete surprise. > > - See: > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1amngA8i-rm1IkBvn0HhyVGeNrj7T6NSk > - And: > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1a1czFpkvfnyQuFbNIlfHZehhwk-Wyl-8 > - This was apparently caused by the way C&C/Morch made stops to limit > the travel of the rudder. They put a bolt at each end of the chain. The > bolts must have caused the damage when the wheel reached its limit. > - Note the two bolts with washers and nuts through the links of the > chain here: > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nvJzh8xWDgetBCEE8eeOAtz4-up4ZvCf > > Non-concerns. The rest of the system looked pretty good. The idler > sheaves and bracket under the pedestal appeared to be in good condition. I > started to remove it but decided it will be easier to just pull the pins, > remove the sheaves, clean, lube and re-install. > > The turning sheaves and brackets looked to be in good condition. (See: > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jie9IxSqSKorp3FaJtcKjbsNh3nD1TBU). I > cleaned them and will lube and re-install. > > Next I needed to disassemble the engine control assembly so it can be > stripped and painted. Using guidance from Chuck, here's that process. > > - Back off or remove the two small Phillips head retaining machine > screws. > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VxT_ApckY55M7xXKoctIShPmIKxgrFUj > - Move one lever COMPLETELY to one side and push the other lever out. > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nqwnvA1UYDEHFVfuH9xi_-sy6YJrSOLE > - Then remove the other lever. > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pjlIMBqk3lTdZ0vtSWg6TfnNFOcpXQZY > > Next steps. > > - Strip powder coat off the pedestal and associated parts and paint > with AwlGrip. Buddy of mine has leftover paint from painting his mast. > - Replace both cables. I'm deciding on this. Edson's cable and wire > kits look like simple swaged thimble eyes and fine thread eye bolts. I > have a Nicropress swaging tool, swages and thimbles. I could make up the > wire and buy the eye bolts. On the other hand, we have a local rigging > shop who could machine swage nicer replacements. I think I may ask them > for a quote. > - The sprocket. Hmmmm. The chain makes a full 180 degree wrap over > the sprocket. I believe there are plenty of undamaged teeth that will > work. On the other hand, I could try to get the sprocket off the shaft and > have a machine shop make a new one. I think that would be a risky option. > First, I'm not sure how I would remove the sprocket. It has set screws ( > https://drive.google.com/open?id=12GbE75ERXZGgz_NalJ93RcXf6rKvL5fi). > I removed a small one on the sprocket and a larger one on a collar adjacent > to it. I suspect there is a keyway on the sprocket. It showed no signs of > moving. There are some inventive ways to try to pull the shaft but again, > they all have risk. Then there's the issue of the bearings. If I muck up > the bearings, I'm screwed. > - Give some thought to a better way to stop the wheel at the travel > limits. > > Here's the link to the folder with all the pics. > https://drive.google.com/open?id=14-oaTFUoebWqxBo8xeUm9K8tPn7xObKE > > So, again, if you haven't check your steering system, you might want to > move that up your work list a bit. :) > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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