Don't knowabout the stops but Touche' originally had the engine controls on
the starboard bulkhead also.  I moved them to the pedestal when I repowered
with the diesel.  Ifilled thehole with a fuel guage.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jan 23, 2019, 7:31 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> Thanks for the info, I'm going to have to look into my steering, also most
> likely also 47 yrs without an overhaul.
>
> I note two differences between your system and mine:
> - instead of bolts through the chain to limit the travel, mine has an
> aluminum plate bolted to the underside of the quadrant with "fingers" on
> each side which in turn contact a plate on each side of a centerline
> upright at the limiting angle,
> -while your system has the engine controls in the pedestal, mine has them
> completely separate on the starboard side of the after cockpit.
>
> Makes me wonder if C&C had different methods, particularly the angle stop,
> or if one was modified by a PO.
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
>
> On 1/23/2019 3:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Well, I disassembled Touche's steering system yesterday for a loooong
> overdue maintenance session.  As in it's never been done in 47 years!
> Touche's steering system is by Morch.
>
> If you haven't checked your steering system, maybe this will inspire you
> to do so.
>
> Oh, no!  Someone stole my pedestal!!
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12p-nlp8FEwqR0zhDrqlHqxkb7UMa0iSx
>
> I hope you find this helpful.  I found some items of concern.
>
> Concern 1.  One of the steering cables had a broken strand.
>
>    - See:
>    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Mu-dmCnPnDFdd5jGHnkBAGSqbGL6jnrw
>    - The break occurred where the cable made a sharp bend around the
>    quadrant just before the adjusting stud.
>    - See:
>    
> http://www.bwsailing.com/bw/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Edson-Quadrant-Dwg.jpg
>    - A buddy of mine who recently rebuilt the system in his Hans
>    Christian 38 said he saw the same on his
>
> Concern 2.  Some of the teeth on the chain sprocket were damaged.  This
> was a complete surprise.
>
>    - See:
>    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1amngA8i-rm1IkBvn0HhyVGeNrj7T6NSk
>    - And:
>    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1a1czFpkvfnyQuFbNIlfHZehhwk-Wyl-8
>    - This was apparently caused by the way C&C/Morch made stops to limit
>    the travel of the rudder.  They put a bolt at each end of the chain. The
>    bolts must have caused the damage when the wheel reached its limit.
>    - Note the two bolts with washers and nuts through the links of the
>    chain here:
>    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nvJzh8xWDgetBCEE8eeOAtz4-up4ZvCf
>
> Non-concerns.  The rest of the system looked pretty good.  The idler
> sheaves and bracket under the pedestal appeared to be in good condition.  I
> started to remove it but decided it will be easier to just pull the pins,
> remove the sheaves, clean, lube and re-install.
>
> The turning sheaves and brackets looked to be in good condition.  (See:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jie9IxSqSKorp3FaJtcKjbsNh3nD1TBU).  I
> cleaned them and will lube and re-install.
>
> Next I needed to disassemble the engine control assembly so it can be
> stripped and painted.  Using guidance from Chuck, here's that process.
>
>    - Back off or remove the two small Phillips head retaining machine
>    screws.
>    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VxT_ApckY55M7xXKoctIShPmIKxgrFUj
>    - Move one lever COMPLETELY to one side and push the other lever out.
>    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nqwnvA1UYDEHFVfuH9xi_-sy6YJrSOLE
>    - Then remove the other lever.
>    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pjlIMBqk3lTdZ0vtSWg6TfnNFOcpXQZY
>
> Next steps.
>
>    - Strip powder coat off the pedestal and associated parts and paint
>    with AwlGrip.  Buddy of mine has leftover paint from painting his mast.
>    - Replace both cables.  I'm deciding on this.  Edson's cable and wire
>    kits look like simple swaged thimble eyes and fine thread eye bolts.  I
>    have a Nicropress swaging tool, swages and thimbles.  I could make up the
>    wire and buy the eye bolts.  On the other hand, we have a local rigging
>    shop who could machine swage nicer replacements.  I think I may ask them
>    for a quote.
>    - The sprocket.  Hmmmm.  The chain makes a full 180 degree wrap over
>    the sprocket.  I believe there are plenty of undamaged teeth that will
>    work.  On the other hand, I could try to get the sprocket off the shaft and
>    have a machine shop make a new one.  I think that would be a risky option.
>    First, I'm not sure how I would remove the sprocket.  It has set screws (
>    https://drive.google.com/open?id=12GbE75ERXZGgz_NalJ93RcXf6rKvL5fi).
>    I removed a small one on the sprocket and a larger one on a collar adjacent
>    to it.  I suspect there is a keyway on the sprocket.  It showed no signs of
>    moving.  There are some inventive ways to try to pull the shaft but again,
>    they all have risk.  Then there's the issue of the bearings.  If I muck up
>    the bearings, I'm screwed.
>    - Give some thought to a better way to stop the wheel at the travel
>    limits.
>
> Here's the link to the folder with all the pics.
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=14-oaTFUoebWqxBo8xeUm9K8tPn7xObKE
>
> So, again, if you haven't check your steering system, you might want to
> move that up your work list a bit.  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>
>
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