Dennis,

Looks very similar to what was on Corsair, Hull #7.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sTBZGtbZlym6_0Iw0S5DZOiWYHahCVI7

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028. "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 1/29/2019 9:20 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
The original post is below.

My buddy has the pedestal and associated parts for stripping and painting with AwlGrip.  Aircraft stripper does indeed remove powder coat. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OgW3dWk9fqRkoQwowu_fwg5fGehKcd_g

A local rigging shop is duplicating the wire rope cable for me.  The fitting on the end of the cable that attaches to the chain is apparently called a chain eye as opposed to a marine eye or aircraft eye.

There seems to be a major change in the rudder stop design.  Touche' is Hull 83.

Thanks to Russ, I have a good example of what a rudder stop should look like.  Note the strong vertical structural member with gussets.  The two plates mounted to the bottom of the quadrant stop against aluminum plates with rubber cushions on either side of the vertical structural member.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_9BPN1H7YXs586x93QLT8saZVIKJxDSr

Unfortunately, Touche' only has a thin gusset for the rudder tube:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jaJX92DAx9vOgV2TWk-fchKrc3k3Zj2h

One other difference is that Touche's quadrant is installed upside down from the one on Russ' boat.  Go figure.  That doesn't seem to be a big deal.  The plates will just have to be mounted on the top of the quadrant.

I am going to have to install a vertical structural member.  Still finalizing the design but it will be similar to Russ' boat.  Going to be very uncomfortable working in there.

I'm thinking about bonding 3 pieces of marine ply together with the middle piece shorter so the thing slips down over the existing rudder post gusset.  I can then through bolt it in place and then tab it to the hull.  I will probably also make it with the athwartships gussets in place so all I need do is tab them to the hull.  The gussets are extremely important due to the side loading of the stops.  The more I do outside the space the easier it will be.

I won't start the job until March after I return from skiing.  I'll document the process and provide a link.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jan 23, 2019 at 2:50 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

    Well, I disassembled Touche's steering system yesterday for a
    loooong overdue maintenance session.  As in it's never been done
    in 47 years!  Touche's steering system is by Morch.

    If you haven't checked your steering system, maybe this will
    inspire you to do so.

    Oh, no! Someone stole my pedestal!!
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=12p-nlp8FEwqR0zhDrqlHqxkb7UMa0iSx

    I hope you find this helpful.  I found some items of concern.

    Concern 1.  One of the steering cables had a broken strand.

      * See:
        https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Mu-dmCnPnDFdd5jGHnkBAGSqbGL6jnrw
      * The break occurred where the cable made a sharp bend around
        the quadrant just before the adjusting stud.
      * See:
        
http://www.bwsailing.com/bw/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Edson-Quadrant-Dwg.jpg
      * A buddy of mine who recently rebuilt the system in his Hans
        Christian 38 said he saw the same on his

    Concern 2.  Some of the teeth on the chain sprocket were damaged.
    This was a complete surprise.

      * See:
        https://drive.google.com/open?id=1amngA8i-rm1IkBvn0HhyVGeNrj7T6NSk
      * And:
        https://drive.google.com/open?id=1a1czFpkvfnyQuFbNIlfHZehhwk-Wyl-8
      * This was apparently caused by the way C&C/Morch made stops to
        limit the travel of the rudder. They put a bolt at each end of
        the chain. The bolts must have caused the damage when the
        wheel reached its limit.
      * Note the two bolts with washers and nuts through the links of
        the chain here:
        https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nvJzh8xWDgetBCEE8eeOAtz4-up4ZvCf

    Non-concerns.  The rest of the system looked pretty good.  The
    idler sheaves and bracket under the pedestal appeared to be in
    good condition.  I started to remove it but decided it will be
    easier to just pull the pins, remove the sheaves, clean, lube and
    re-install.

    The turning sheaves and brackets looked to be in good condition. 
    (See:
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jie9IxSqSKorp3FaJtcKjbsNh3nD1TBU).
    I cleaned them and will lube and re-install.

    Next I needed to disassemble the engine control assembly so it can
    be stripped and painted. Using guidance from Chuck, here's that
    process.

      * Back off or remove the two small Phillips head retaining
        machine screws.
        https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VxT_ApckY55M7xXKoctIShPmIKxgrFUj
      * Move one lever COMPLETELY to one side and push the other lever
        out.
        https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nqwnvA1UYDEHFVfuH9xi_-sy6YJrSOLE
      * Then remove the other lever.
        https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pjlIMBqk3lTdZ0vtSWg6TfnNFOcpXQZY

    Next steps.

      * Strip powder coat off the pedestal and associated parts and
        paint with AwlGrip. Buddy of mine has leftover paint from
        painting his mast.
      * Replace both cables.  I'm deciding on this.  Edson's cable and
        wire kits look like simple swaged thimble eyes and fine thread
        eye bolts.  I have a Nicropress swaging tool, swages and
        thimbles.  I could make up the wire and buy the eye bolts.  On
        the other hand, we have a local rigging shop who could machine
        swage nicer replacements.  I think I may ask them for a quote.
      * The sprocket. Hmmmm.  The chain makes a full 180 degree wrap
        over the sprocket.  I believe there are plenty of undamaged
        teeth that will work.  On the other hand, I could try to get
        the sprocket off the shaft and have a machine shop make a new
        one. I think that would be a risky option. First, I'm not sure
        how I would remove the sprocket.  It has set screws
        (https://drive.google.com/open?id=12GbE75ERXZGgz_NalJ93RcXf6rKvL5fi).
        I removed a small one on the sprocket and a larger one on a
        collar adjacent to it.  I suspect there is a keyway on the
        sprocket.  It showed no signs of moving. There are some
        inventive ways to try to pull the shaft but again, they all
        have risk.  Then there's the issue of the bearings.  If I muck
        up the bearings, I'm screwed.
      * Give some thought to a better way to stop the wheel at the
        travel limits.

    Here's the link to the folder with all the pics.
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=14-oaTFUoebWqxBo8xeUm9K8tPn7xObKE

    So, again, if you haven't check your steering system, you might
    want to move that up your work list a bit.  :)

    Dennis C.
    Touche' 35-1 #83
    Mandeville, LA



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