My hull number, in the photos, is #202, July '73.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 1/29/2019 1:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Yep. I wonder what hull number they made the design change? touche'
is #83.
Dennis C.
On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 10:54 AM schiller via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Dennis,
Looks very similar to what was on Corsair, Hull #7.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sTBZGtbZlym6_0Iw0S5DZOiWYHahCVI7
Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028. "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
On 1/29/2019 9:20 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
The original post is below.
My buddy has the pedestal and associated parts for stripping and
painting with AwlGrip. Aircraft stripper does indeed remove
powder coat.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OgW3dWk9fqRkoQwowu_fwg5fGehKcd_g
A local rigging shop is duplicating the wire rope cable for me.
The fitting on the end of the cable that attaches to the chain is
apparently called a chain eye as opposed to a marine eye or
aircraft eye.
There seems to be a major change in the rudder stop design.
Touche' is Hull 83.
Thanks to Russ, I have a good example of what a rudder stop
should look like. Note the strong vertical structural member
with gussets. The two plates mounted to the bottom of the
quadrant stop against aluminum plates with rubber cushions on
either side of the vertical structural member.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_9BPN1H7YXs586x93QLT8saZVIKJxDSr
Unfortunately, Touche' only has a thin gusset for the rudder tube:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jaJX92DAx9vOgV2TWk-fchKrc3k3Zj2h
One other difference is that Touche's quadrant is installed
upside down from the one on Russ' boat. Go figure. That doesn't
seem to be a big deal. The plates will just have to be mounted
on the top of the quadrant.
I am going to have to install a vertical structural member.
Still finalizing the design but it will be similar to Russ'
boat. Going to be very uncomfortable working in there.
I'm thinking about bonding 3 pieces of marine ply together with
the middle piece shorter so the thing slips down over the
existing rudder post gusset. I can then through bolt it in place
and then tab it to the hull. I will probably also make it with
the athwartships gussets in place so all I need do is tab them to
the hull. The gussets are extremely important due to the side
loading of the stops. The more I do outside the space the easier
it will be.
I won't start the job until March after I return from skiing.
I'll document the process and provide a link.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Wed, Jan 23, 2019 at 2:50 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Well, I disassembled Touche's steering system yesterday for a
loooong overdue maintenance session. As in it's never been
done in 47 years! Touche's steering system is by Morch.
If you haven't checked your steering system, maybe this will
inspire you to do so.
Oh, no! Someone stole my pedestal!!
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12p-nlp8FEwqR0zhDrqlHqxkb7UMa0iSx
I hope you find this helpful. I found some items of concern.
Concern 1. One of the steering cables had a broken strand.
* See:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Mu-dmCnPnDFdd5jGHnkBAGSqbGL6jnrw
* The break occurred where the cable made a sharp bend
around the quadrant just before the adjusting stud.
* See:
http://www.bwsailing.com/bw/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Edson-Quadrant-Dwg.jpg
* A buddy of mine who recently rebuilt the system in his
Hans Christian 38 said he saw the same on his
Concern 2. Some of the teeth on the chain sprocket were
damaged. This was a complete surprise.
* See:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1amngA8i-rm1IkBvn0HhyVGeNrj7T6NSk
* And:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1a1czFpkvfnyQuFbNIlfHZehhwk-Wyl-8
* This was apparently caused by the way C&C/Morch made
stops to limit the travel of the rudder. They put a bolt
at each end of the chain. The bolts must have caused the
damage when the wheel reached its limit.
* Note the two bolts with washers and nuts through the
links of the chain here:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nvJzh8xWDgetBCEE8eeOAtz4-up4ZvCf
Non-concerns. The rest of the system looked pretty good. The
idler sheaves and bracket under the pedestal appeared to be
in good condition. I started to remove it but decided it
will be easier to just pull the pins, remove the sheaves,
clean, lube and re-install.
The turning sheaves and brackets looked to be in good
condition. (See:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jie9IxSqSKorp3FaJtcKjbsNh3nD1TBU).
I cleaned them and will lube and re-install.
Next I needed to disassemble the engine control assembly so
it can be stripped and painted. Using guidance from Chuck,
here's that process.
* Back off or remove the two small Phillips head retaining
machine screws.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VxT_ApckY55M7xXKoctIShPmIKxgrFUj
* Move one lever COMPLETELY to one side and push the other
lever out.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nqwnvA1UYDEHFVfuH9xi_-sy6YJrSOLE
* Then remove the other lever.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pjlIMBqk3lTdZ0vtSWg6TfnNFOcpXQZY
Next steps.
* Strip powder coat off the pedestal and associated parts
and paint with AwlGrip. Buddy of mine has leftover paint
from painting his mast.
* Replace both cables. I'm deciding on this. Edson's
cable and wire kits look like simple swaged thimble eyes
and fine thread eye bolts. I have a Nicropress swaging
tool, swages and thimbles. I could make up the wire and
buy the eye bolts. On the other hand, we have a local
rigging shop who could machine swage nicer replacements.
I think I may ask them for a quote.
* The sprocket. Hmmmm. The chain makes a full 180 degree
wrap over the sprocket. I believe there are plenty of
undamaged teeth that will work. On the other hand, I
could try to get the sprocket off the shaft and have a
machine shop make a new one. I think that would be a
risky option. First, I'm not sure how I would remove the
sprocket. It has set screws
(https://drive.google.com/open?id=12GbE75ERXZGgz_NalJ93RcXf6rKvL5fi).
I removed a small one on the sprocket and a larger one on
a collar adjacent to it. I suspect there is a keyway on
the sprocket. It showed no signs of moving. There are
some inventive ways to try to pull the shaft but again,
they all have risk. Then there's the issue of the
bearings. If I muck up the bearings, I'm screwed.
* Give some thought to a better way to stop the wheel at
the travel limits.
Here's the link to the folder with all the pics.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=14-oaTFUoebWqxBo8xeUm9K8tPn7xObKE
So, again, if you haven't check your steering system, you
might want to move that up your work list a bit. :)
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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_______________________________________________
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Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
