Yep. I wonder what hull number they made the design change? touche' is #83.
Dennis C. On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 10:54 AM schiller via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Dennis, > > Looks very similar to what was on Corsair, Hull #7. > > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sTBZGtbZlym6_0Iw0S5DZOiWYHahCVI7 > > Neil Schiller > 1983 C&C 35-3, #028. "Grace" > Whitehall, Michigan > WLYC > > On 1/29/2019 9:20 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > > The original post is below. > > My buddy has the pedestal and associated parts for stripping and painting > with AwlGrip. Aircraft stripper does indeed remove powder coat. > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OgW3dWk9fqRkoQwowu_fwg5fGehKcd_g > > A local rigging shop is duplicating the wire rope cable for me. The > fitting on the end of the cable that attaches to the chain is apparently > called a chain eye as opposed to a marine eye or aircraft eye. > > There seems to be a major change in the rudder stop design. Touche' is > Hull 83. > > Thanks to Russ, I have a good example of what a rudder stop should look > like. Note the strong vertical structural member with gussets. The two > plates mounted to the bottom of the quadrant stop against aluminum plates > with rubber cushions on either side of the vertical structural member. > > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_9BPN1H7YXs586x93QLT8saZVIKJxDSr > > Unfortunately, Touche' only has a thin gusset for the rudder tube: > > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jaJX92DAx9vOgV2TWk-fchKrc3k3Zj2h > > One other difference is that Touche's quadrant is installed upside down > from the one on Russ' boat. Go figure. That doesn't seem to be a big > deal. The plates will just have to be mounted on the top of the quadrant. > > I am going to have to install a vertical structural member. Still > finalizing the design but it will be similar to Russ' boat. Going to be > very uncomfortable working in there. > > I'm thinking about bonding 3 pieces of marine ply together with the middle > piece shorter so the thing slips down over the existing rudder post > gusset. I can then through bolt it in place and then tab it to the hull. > I will probably also make it with the athwartships gussets in place so all > I need do is tab them to the hull. The gussets are extremely important due > to the side loading of the stops. The more I do outside the space the > easier it will be. > > I won't start the job until March after I return from skiing. I'll > document the process and provide a link. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Wed, Jan 23, 2019 at 2:50 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Well, I disassembled Touche's steering system yesterday for a loooong >> overdue maintenance session. As in it's never been done in 47 years! >> Touche's steering system is by Morch. >> >> If you haven't checked your steering system, maybe this will inspire you >> to do so. >> >> Oh, no! Someone stole my pedestal!! >> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12p-nlp8FEwqR0zhDrqlHqxkb7UMa0iSx >> >> I hope you find this helpful. I found some items of concern. >> >> Concern 1. One of the steering cables had a broken strand. >> >> - See: >> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Mu-dmCnPnDFdd5jGHnkBAGSqbGL6jnrw >> - The break occurred where the cable made a sharp bend around the >> quadrant just before the adjusting stud. >> - See: >> >> http://www.bwsailing.com/bw/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Edson-Quadrant-Dwg.jpg >> - A buddy of mine who recently rebuilt the system in his Hans >> Christian 38 said he saw the same on his >> >> Concern 2. Some of the teeth on the chain sprocket were damaged. This >> was a complete surprise. >> >> - See: >> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1amngA8i-rm1IkBvn0HhyVGeNrj7T6NSk >> - And: >> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1a1czFpkvfnyQuFbNIlfHZehhwk-Wyl-8 >> - This was apparently caused by the way C&C/Morch made stops to limit >> the travel of the rudder. They put a bolt at each end of the chain. The >> bolts must have caused the damage when the wheel reached its limit. >> - Note the two bolts with washers and nuts through the links of the >> chain here: >> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nvJzh8xWDgetBCEE8eeOAtz4-up4ZvCf >> >> Non-concerns. The rest of the system looked pretty good. The idler >> sheaves and bracket under the pedestal appeared to be in good condition. I >> started to remove it but decided it will be easier to just pull the pins, >> remove the sheaves, clean, lube and re-install. >> >> The turning sheaves and brackets looked to be in good condition. (See: >> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jie9IxSqSKorp3FaJtcKjbsNh3nD1TBU). I >> cleaned them and will lube and re-install. >> >> Next I needed to disassemble the engine control assembly so it can be >> stripped and painted. Using guidance from Chuck, here's that process. >> >> - Back off or remove the two small Phillips head retaining machine >> screws. >> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VxT_ApckY55M7xXKoctIShPmIKxgrFUj >> - Move one lever COMPLETELY to one side and push the other lever >> out. >> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nqwnvA1UYDEHFVfuH9xi_-sy6YJrSOLE >> - Then remove the other lever. >> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pjlIMBqk3lTdZ0vtSWg6TfnNFOcpXQZY >> >> Next steps. >> >> - Strip powder coat off the pedestal and associated parts and paint >> with AwlGrip. Buddy of mine has leftover paint from painting his mast. >> - Replace both cables. I'm deciding on this. Edson's cable and wire >> kits look like simple swaged thimble eyes and fine thread eye bolts. I >> have a Nicropress swaging tool, swages and thimbles. I could make up the >> wire and buy the eye bolts. On the other hand, we have a local rigging >> shop who could machine swage nicer replacements. I think I may ask them >> for a quote. >> - The sprocket. Hmmmm. The chain makes a full 180 degree wrap over >> the sprocket. I believe there are plenty of undamaged teeth that will >> work. On the other hand, I could try to get the sprocket off the shaft >> and >> have a machine shop make a new one. I think that would be a risky option. >> First, I'm not sure how I would remove the sprocket. It has set screws ( >> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12GbE75ERXZGgz_NalJ93RcXf6rKvL5fi). >> I removed a small one on the sprocket and a larger one on a collar >> adjacent >> to it. I suspect there is a keyway on the sprocket. It showed no signs >> of >> moving. There are some inventive ways to try to pull the shaft but again, >> they all have risk. Then there's the issue of the bearings. If I muck up >> the bearings, I'm screwed. >> - Give some thought to a better way to stop the wheel at the travel >> limits. >> >> Here's the link to the folder with all the pics. >> https://drive.google.com/open?id=14-oaTFUoebWqxBo8xeUm9K8tPn7xObKE >> >> So, again, if you haven't check your steering system, you might want to >> move that up your work list a bit. :) >> >> Dennis C. >> Touche' 35-1 #83 >> Mandeville, LA >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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