The trouble with engine condensation and keeping a boat in the water is
that the wet muffler creates a loop seal and will push/pull moist air
through the engine cylinders.  In my case it resulted in stuck piston rings
as indicated by low compression.  Unbeknownst to me, the OEM suggests
bagging the intake and plugging the exhaust.  Instead, I have chosen what I
think is a more conservative approach.  I installed a 100w (120v) engine
block heater to drive out the moisture, and to keep the air from being
push/pulled I loosen the 4 bolts holding the exhaust goose neck.

As for moisture in the cabin, the heat from the engine helps keep things
from freezing and drives out the moisture to help keep things from getting
mildew.  In addition, I keep a household dehumidifier running full blast
24/7.  Between the block heater and the dehumidifier the cabin is less than
40% humidity and usually better than 50°F.

Keeping air flow is the other key to mildew and moisture management.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Jan 21, 2020, 1:18 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I wonder if anyone has any profound opinions on condensation, two aspects
> in particular I am concerned with.
>
> One is in the engine, I have seen boats who have plugged the exhaust
> pipe(s), and maybe even the intake inside the boat –
>
>
>
> And also in the cabin. I usually leave a hatch and something else on the
> other end of the boat open, so some air can circulate throughout the winter.
>
> Then I began to doubt the usefulness of this a couple weekends ago, when
> It hit 71 here, and was still 45 down in the cabin.
>
> I noticed lots of condensation below, which really bothers me.
>
>
>
> Does anyone know what the best solution is ?
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Erie PA
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