Just one note about the CLR product - although it does not contain bleach,
as with most chemicals, you should use gloves. It contains Potassium
Hydroxide which is a skin irritant, and is also harmful to stainless steel,
so use with care. If in doubt wear gloves and eye protection, or check the
MSDS for the product - a quick google search with MSDS "product name" will
give you the details. (and sometimes expose different products that are
actually the same formulation of active ingredients).

I was curious about it, so I looked at the reviews for our local store
(Canadian Tire), and it is poorly rated for effectiveness. This is possibly
because we are in one of the worst climates for mildew, with long, dark,
wet and warm (in BC anyway) winters. It may be more effective in other
climates.

For stubborn mildew problems (like the flocked headliner of my Westfalia
camper van fiberglass poptop), I have used a weak solution of bleach with
TSP, but I would only recommend this for really tough mold problems, and
only with full eye, skin and lung protection.

I am trying to use less harmful products wherever I can, and keep a bottle
of vinegar on the boat (extra strength pickling type is good), and have
found that regular use of vinegar helps to keep mold and mildew away.

As for keeping the boat dry, this is our first winter, and so far I have
used a combination of the following:

1 West Marine 1500W heater set to "3" which is 900W high fan mode (in main
salon) for coldest times
1 Caframo round low power fan heater in vberth
1 70W Peltier effect dehumidifier in main salon near heater (it is more
effective above 10C)

During a cold snap last week (down to -7C), I opened the engine access and
pointed a small 1500W heater set to low (600W) into it, mainly to keep the
watermaker membrane warmer, as I was unable to flush it with PG antifreeze.
Probably not necessary, but I wanted to be safe.

I keep a thermostat/hygrometer with memory in the salon, so I can see the
min/max values. So far, my min. temperature was 2C, and max. humidity was
70%, but this is usually after sleeping aboard and boiling a kettle.
Typical values are 8-14C and 50-57% humidity when I arrive at the boat. I
also leave the sliding doors to the storage areas above the settees open
for airflow. I suppose if I were leaving the boat for longer periods
unattended, a lower temperate setting would be sufficient, but I am there
twice a week or so, and prefer to have it somewhat warm when I arrive... :)
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Jan 21, 2020 at 2:33 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I find condensation only happens when the hull/deck is colder than the air
> inside the cabin.  If the cabin is allowed to cool the same as the ambient,
> and the hull too, there will not be any condensation.  However, heating the
> cabin air when the outdoor ambient is cold, will allow the cabin air to
> absorb moisture which condense on windows, under a cold deck or on the
> inside of a cold hull.
>
> I don't like keeping 120v power connected to my boat while away and simply
> use solar fans to ventilate the cabin.  I wind up with a few spots that
> need a wipe down, but it's acceptable.   My boatyard has power available
> but I can't prevent a tripped breaker, ground fault, or another boatowner
> pulling my cord out to put theirs in.
>
> Other tips that may seem obvious:
> 1) remove all liguids from the boat except fuel, as they will remain cold
> after ambient air rises and condensation will form on their containers.  I
> bag up all the toiletries and take em home, ready to bring back with the
> sails.
> 2) If you must leave fuel cans or bottled water at the boat, set them in a
> container outside the cabin.
> 3) Keep the bilge dry, sponge or wet vac and dry those before leaving the
> boat.
> 4) Wipe up any moisture you find during winter visits.
> 5) If you find mold, wipe down using CLR Mold & Mildew Foaming Action
> Stain Remover.  It is fantastic and has no bleach and you don't need a
> mask, or gloves.
>
> Chuck Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena, Md
>
>
>
>
> On January 21, 2020 at 4:52 PM John Conklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Exactly what I run! All year!
>  plus a small stand up oil filled heater for the real extreme
> Otherwise no issues so far
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>
>
> On Jan 21, 2020, at 3:59 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> I keep two of these on my boat.  Of course, you need 120 VAC for them.
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Caframo-Limited-9406CAABX-Dehumidifier-Circulator/dp/B0009L675W
>
>
> These heater fans are very light just a couple pounds, if that.
>
> During the cooler months I put one on the cabin sole in the galley area
> and one on the cabin sole forward of the head.  Touche' has a day/night
> solar vent in the head.  So one heater fan is forward of the vent; one
> aft.  I never see condensation on the boat.
>
> During the summer months, I place a single heater fan on the cabin sole in
> the center of the saloon.  Again, I never see condensation.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Jan 21, 2020 at 1:18 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I wonder if anyone has any profound opinions on condensation, two aspects
> in particular I am concerned with.
>
> One is in the engine, I have seen boats who have plugged the exhaust
> pipe(s), and maybe even the intake inside the boat –
>
>
>
> And also in the cabin. I usually leave a hatch and something else on the
> other end of the boat open, so some air can circulate throughout the winter.
>
> Then I began to doubt the usefulness of this a couple weekends ago, when
> It hit 71 here, and was still 45 down in the cabin.
>
> I noticed lots of condensation below, which really bothers me.
>
>
>
> Does anyone know what the best solution is ?
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Erie PA
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