This is great information.   Thanks for providing it.   

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Apr 10, 2020, at 9:50 AM, Richard Klajnscek via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Greetings all,
> 
> Back in the mid 1980s I briefly ran the rigging shop at Hinterhoeller Yachts 
> where l learned a nice way to permanently secure conduit inside Nonsuch 
> masts. I used the technique very successfully on my C&C 30 about 26 years ago 
> and it’s solid as a rock. Forgive me if I’m repeating what may have been 
> posted in the past, but I only joined the list in the past year. Pictures and 
> diagrams would make this easier to describe this whole routine, but I don’t 
> have any so here we go…
> 
> Glue sections of appropriately sized conduit (about 1” I.D.) together 
> basically for the full length of the spar - between the upper and lower wire 
> exit holes. About every five feet over the whole length, drill about 1/2” 
> holes through one side of the tube and about 5/32" holes through the other 
> wall, directly in line. Thread 3/16” x 1.5" round head SS machine screws 
> through the conduit so the studs protrude out of the tube (the heads are 
> inside the tube - that’s why you need the 1/2” holes to be able to access and 
> screw them from the inside out). You need conduit that is at least 1/8" thick 
> so that the studs will hold well enough when threaded in place. Lay the 
> conduit on the outside of the mast where you want it (mine is off centre on 
> the leading edge), tape it in place and mark (exactly) the location of each 
> of the studs, making sure that you add adequate-sized holes for any 
> mid-height exits for accessories (bow, deck, spreader, steaming, radar, 
> wifi). Make sure to use grommets for these mast holes. Snap a chalk line on 
> the outside of the spar to make sure the holes you are about to drill in your 
> precious spar are nicely lined up. NO MISTAKES! Feed the tracer lines for 
> pulling wires and spare line(s) using a separate tracer line for each exit. 
> You may want to feed the lines at the beginning of the process, before gluing 
> the conduit together if you don’t have a long enough pole or other clever way 
> of feeding line. The holes you drill in the spar need to be somewhat 
> oversized (say 1/4”) so that the studs will fall through easily. Push the 
> conduit into the mast to the correct location, pull the tracer lines through 
> the exit holes and tie the ends off. Then wiggle and maneuver the whole works 
> until the studs fall through the holes, using gravity to advantage. Make sure 
> that tracer lines aren’t pinched or caught before you add the nuts and 
> tighten the tube down. Using SS nylock nuts. Use a vice grip to lightly hold 
> the studs at the mast surface so you can get the nuts started until you have 
> about a half inch of stud on the other side of the nut, then switch the vice 
> grip to the end of the stud and crank the nut tight (within reason). Now you 
> can pull your wires/cables/spare lines using your tracers.
> 
> Have fun and sleep well when rolling at anchor.
> 
> Rich Klajnscek, P.Eng.
> C&C 30 #9, Gloucester, MA
> C&C 39 #59, Hamilton, ON
> 
> 
>> On Apr 9, 2020, at 4:55 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> David, Yes.  The mast on my 37+ from Offshore Spars came with a conduit of 
>> sorts already installed.  It was black poly tubing riveted to the forward 
>> inside face of the mast.  During the mast rebuild the yard suggested 
>> upgrading to pvc since it would be a little more robust.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, Apr 9, 2020, 07:31 David Risch via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> So let me understand this...folks have installed conduit for the length of 
>> the mast inside the mast...?  Thought of that but abandoned due to 
>> complexity or did I overthink?
>> 
>> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>> 
>> From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf of Shawn Wright via 
>> CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 8, 2020 11:22:38 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Cc: Shawn Wright <shawngwri...@gmail.com <mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast
>>  
>> I used CL200 for our irrigation system, as it was about half the price of 
>> CSA/UL approved schedule 40. It is definitely thinner, which in this case is 
>> a bonus. For water pipes, not so much, but I have >1000' in the ground and 
>> no leaks after the 10 years, except for those pipes I've hit with something. 
>> In my experience, schedule 40 has much higher strength and impact 
>> resistance, and schedule 80 even more so, but it's not an issue inside the 
>> mast. For making a support for a winter cover, I'd use sched 40.
>> 
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com <mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto <https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto>
>> 
>> 
>> On Wed, Apr 8, 2020 at 9:06 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> Yeah that CL 200 is the pvc which I have for reference.  When I pulled the 
>> upc off the side it came up as scheduled 40.  I don't know the difference.  
>> I've never really had to research pvc pipe so I'm a little out of my 
>> element. 
>> 
>> Josh 
>> 
>> On Wed, Apr 8, 2020, 11:27 Shawn Wright via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> I had hoped to pull our mast soon, but with the mast crane out of service 
>> due to covid, it will have to wait. Some great info on this thread, so I 
>> will save it.
>> 
>> One option for thinner PVC is to use white (water) PVC, which you can get in 
>> a CL200 rating (at least in Canada) for light use; it is a bit thinner 
>> walled, and UV resistance is not an issue inside the mast. You could also 
>> seek out aluminum electrical conduit, which will be even thinner. Regarding 
>> sizing, I just installed two 3/4" conduits (grey electrical type) through 
>> the bilge for wiring, and was able to get the wiring for both Garmin and 
>> Standard horizon depth sounders through one conduit by staggering the 
>> connectors - two 7 pin DIN twist lock, and one RCA for the old SH unit. Once 
>> the connectors are through, there is plenty of space for smaller cables. 
>> Holding the conduit in place while drilling and riveting might be challenge 
>> also. Too bad the mast doesn't have a wire track like some of the newer 
>> ones. 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com <mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto <https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto>
>> 
>> 
>> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 3:30 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> All,
>> 
>> As one of my boat projects this spring I am replacing the electrical wiring 
>> in my mast.   The mast is currently down (horizontal) so now is the time to 
>> do it.  I want to secure the wires in the mast, in particular to reduce 
>> noise (when rocking at anchor).  Wisper is a 1981 C&C 34 with a keel stepped 
>> mast and 5 internal halyards in addition to the wires.  The cables are for 
>> wind instruments, masthead and steaming lights, VHF coax, and radar (power 
>> and communication) so it will be a substantial bundle with a separate drop 
>> at the spreader.  The two approaches I am considering are:
>> 
>> 1) Creating a bundle (wiring harness) of the cables and placing 3 large 
>> cable ties on the bundle at perhaps 2 or 3 foot intervals with the tails 
>> sticking out at 120 deg angles that will bend over and press against the 
>> mast and keep the cables in the middle.  I would use Panduit metal barb 
>> outdoor zip ties which are robust, smooth edged, and long lasting.
>> 
>> 2) Installing a PVC conduit (using rivets?) with a feeder line for the 
>> cables and then running the cables through it.
>> 
>> There is support of both methods in various forums online.  Cable ties are 
>> definitely the simpler method.  The main advantages to the conduit that I 
>> see is being able to run an additional wire through it at a later time 
>> potentially with the mast up.  Also I might be able to run cables from top 
>> to bottom so that a large connector can remain preinstalled on the top (for 
>> example for the radar unit) rather than needing to feed everything in to the 
>> bottom at once and then fishing the ends out the various small holes in the 
>> mast and reattaching connectors.  The disadvantage is the effort required to 
>> install it and the additional holes I would need to create in the mast.  I 
>> am also unsure how quiet either solution would be and the relative chance of 
>> tangling or extra friction or wear on a halyard although most info on-line 
>> seems to indicate that the conduit is the better choice for that.
>> 
>> With the conduit approach, I am also debating if two smaller conduits - one 
>> to the spreader and one to the mast head - would make more sense than having 
>> a hole in large conduit at the spreader location.
>> 
>> Has anyone done either of these securing approaches?  What are your thoughts 
>> on the success?  How much does it silence the cables?  Is the effort for the 
>> conduit worth it?  
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Nathan Post
>> S/V Wisper
>> 1981 C&C 34 CB
>> Lynn MA, USA
>> _______________________________________________
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>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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> 
> _______________________________________________
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