dave wrote: > > > Sorry you had such bad luck with it. I diluted it IIRC 1:1 with > toluene, floated in on the copper, drained off any that would run off, > let it dry, exposed it with a very intense UV lamp. Developed with > toluene and then etched. Never had one fail. > I bought the GC variety in a spray bottle, it was supposed to be just re-branded KPR. > The UV lamp was the nasty part of it (about 1 KW); we used it to convert > diethylstibesterol to a colored compound that could be measured in a > spectrophotometer; not something one usually has laying around. > I used everything from photographic halogen floods to mercury vapor lamps, just needed a longer exposure. When developed, you could barely see the resist, and it was very easily scratched. > Aqueous based chemicals are probably a safer way for most people to go. > I did this a LONG time ago and was not aware of any alternatives. > Dry Film resist is the industry standard, DuPont Riston brand, used in huge quantities at professional board houses. I mostly use the dry film for solder stencils, now, but it works for PC boards and other types of engraving, etching, manufacturing of all sorts of thin parts with apertures, grilles, etc. It is dyed deep blue, so you can really SEE the developed result before etching. I occasionally touch up pinholes, presumably from dust when exposing.
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