Mark said, 

" . . . I couldn't help but wonder what mechanic bozo would do a "valve job" 
and not even bother to blue it and lap the valve, which would have graphically 
shown the total lack of seal between valve and seat."
That honor belongs to the outfit below.  RIMCO once had a good name in the VW 
world and in some minds may yet still, but in my personal experience they are 
butchers of the worst kind.  Steve used to send his heads for rebuild to these 
clowns.  They are the ones that, in addition to whatever other rebuilding sins 
they commit, are in the practice of re-using valve springs.  This caused a 
forced landing in Venice, Florida in my case.  I was over 11K feet high when 
this occurred so this incident was no more than a couple day delay in my trip 
but when it happened I was afraid it was a valve.  It was a relief to find it 
was only a broken spring . . . one of two.  I rebuilt my heads once I arrived 
home and found Mark's Corvair documentation to be of huge help.  Since good 
engine work is pretty important . . . especially when we are up in the air  
(smiley face) . . . I share the concept of doing the work myself.  Most VW 
shops deal with dune buggies where operators expect to re-do their engines 
after every season.  This expectation extends to the mechanics that re-do the 
engines.
With the expertise contained at Mark's Corvair link below, there's little 
excuse to not do our own engines.  

This is the outfit that Steve used to send his heads to.  They're still in 
business.  Somehow.

https://fatperformance-rimco.com/
MikeKSEE

*****************************************

    On Thursday, November 3, 2022 at 07:02:12 AM PDT, Mark Langford 
<m...@n56ml.com> wrote:  
  
Jeff York wrote:
 
>>Wanted some advice on my cylinders. I pulled my heads on my ĢPAS 2180 VW to 
>>have them done. Had one cylinder that seems low on compression and needed to 
>>help coil one so why not have them rebuilt. Lots of carbon on the heads and a 
>>few of the cylinders give me the impression the cylinders have been over 
>>washed from running too rich. <<
 
 
I think it boils down to what's more important to you, your time or your money? 
  And maybe also, how much of a hurry are you in?  I'm not sure what you mean 
by "washed over" or "coil one", but those cylinders are reusable, and when the 
engine's turning 3000 RPM, those scratches will not be a factor.  But 
ersonally, if I have the heads off of a VW or Corvair, I either hone the 
cylinders and re-ring them, or more usually, simply replace them, as cheap as 
VW cylinders are.  
 
 
And I wouldn't trust anybody to do a valve job on a VW (or anything else).  
I've told this story before on my web page, but I'll tell it again.  I first 
met Jim Hill at a KR Gathering, and found he was from my local area.  I visited 
him at his hangar, where he complained that it took forever for his "rings to 
seat" in his KR2. It seems his 2180 ran like a 3.5 cylinder for the first 50 
hours, then smoothed out, but at 100 hours it became a 3 cylinder. He went thru 
this 3 times, each time getting a "valve job" from a reputable engine builder, 
GPASC.  I insisted he let me look at his heads before he sent them off again. 
First thing I noticed was that one valve had a lot of slop, with the seat quite 
eroded  valve guide wallowed out, so I knocked out the guide, and went to the 
freezer and got a new valve guide to drive in it's place (yes, I keep a box of 
VW guides in my freezer at all times). When I started grinding the seat, the 
stone only ground one side, sort of crescent shaped like my example above! Hmmm.
 
It became obvious that the valve guide was not coaxial with the seat when the 
head was manufactured. I ground the crap out of it until it sealed, but I 
couldn't help but wonder what mechanic bozo would do a "valve job" and not even 
bother to blue it and lap the valve, which would have graphically shown the 
total lack of seal between valve and seat.
 
What was happening was the valve wouldn't seal, but the side forces on the 
valve would eventually elongate the bore in the guide until it did seat, and it 
would start running better, usually after about 50 hours. But then that slop in 
the seat would allow it to wobble around and wear the valve face and seat 
excessively until it needed another valve job at 100 hours. Happened three 
times, just like clock work.
 
This was the first time I'd ever seen this phenomenon on a head straight from 
the factory, but somebody else had THREE opportunities to notice it before I 
did. This is just one of the many reasons nobody touches any of my cars but me, 
but don't get me started on the subject of paying "professionals" to do 
something for you!  The mind-blowing thing about this is that GPASC would 
simply replace valve and guide and not re cut the seat, and send the head back 
to him for a repeat performance.   
 
 
I visited Steve's house when I bought N891JF, and his basement shop was pretty 
basic.  I got the impression that he farmed out all the engine rebuild work to 
some local place....at least that's what I'd like to think.  Whoever did that 
work either had no conscience, or no clue how to properly rebuild a head. I 
don't trust any part of my engine to anybody else, and no, I'm not "open for 
business" to rebuild heads.  Heads are pretty cheap too, in the grand scheme of 
things, but I do use top notch exhaust valves, for a good reason. Wide open 
airplane usage is hell on them.  A sucked valve will kill an engine in less 
than a second.  Been there, done that at 7500', got lucky and didn't do much 
damage to the plane in the corn field landing.
 
 
As Mike Stirewalt mentioned, see some of the many Corvair engine rebuilds I've 
done on the Corvair (which are VERY similar to VW's), and on most of my 
engines, I run VW pistons and cylinders.  See 
http://www.n56ml.com/corvair/valvejob.html for a LOT more on this subject.  I 
could go on forever about this kind of stuff, but I'll spare you and quit 
here.....
 
 Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
http://www.n56ml.com
Huntsville, AL 
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