I'm a bobbin lacer and I always pre-prick my pricking.
I am just finishing up the project I have where I used manila folders
covered with clear sticky backed plastic.
The nicest part about pre-pricking, aside from accuracy is sometimes I can
feel the hole before I can see it.
There are three problems I have found with sticky backed plastic.
First is the adhesive appears to collect on the pins.
Second, when placing a pin, the pin will catch on the plastic and feel like
a hole when there isn't one.
Third, with sewings both my eye-out and my crochet hooks have ended up
between the film and the manila card.
I was able to print on the card and covered it with a transparent rectangle
in my choice of color so I did not need colored plastic.
I do have to agree with a teacher who lead a workshop last November here in
Austin. If you start by printing on a piece of paper and tape it to the card
stock to prick it. Afterwards you remove the paper and mark the patterns in
indelible ink, I use a dip-pen. When you finish marking up your pricking,
you know your pricking. I have recently order pricking card from a favored
vendor in Ithaca, New York. It is very thick. I cannot wait to try it.
Before getting the pricking card I found some thick card at an art supply
here in Austin. In working with it is started to delaminate on one corner,
but I have the pricking done and it is a one time project (I think). I did
see a note somewhere on prick material where there was a warning about
splitting, which I assume is similar to the layer coming apart like mine
did.
Just my feeling, and I still feel I am very much a beginner, after two and a
half years.
I am interested in others experience and feelings on this matter.
TTFN
Pat T.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jane Partridge
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 11:50 AM
To: Susan Reishus
Cc: lace@arachne.com
Subject: [lace] Re: Architect's Linen Comparables
In message <801520.9637...@web34404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, Susan Reishus
<elationrelat...@yahoo.com> writes
With a little research, I see successful attempts to make or replace
architect's
linen has been accomplished using Weldbond glue/adhesive in a 50:50 ratio
(Weldbond to water) on brown wrapping/packaging paper (or heavier), or
could be
to linen, itself.
I think most people I know have moved on to using coloured, matt where
possible, sticky backed plastic which is easily obtainable as book
covering film. I also discovered a source of clear matt adhesive plastic
in the decorating department of our local Co-op Department Store -
amongst the plastics used for covering windows and shelves. This worked
out quite a bit cheaper per metre than the coloured variety available
from lace suppliers and stationers.
My question regarding your suggestion would be why buy brown paper and
the Weldbond (even if we can get it here!) and spend time diluting,
pasting the paper and waiting for it to dry when the adhesive plastic
films work as well and are bought ready-to-use?
Query: Needlelacers, do you tend to pre-prick before sewing down your
couching
or outlines, or just work with your needle? I think it is easier on the
hands,
and helps with the execution/placement to pre-prick at times. Bobbin
lacers,
do some of you pre-prick also (aside from the lace styles that are almost
exclusively done that way).
I only pre-prick for bobbin lace, and always do so (have once tried
without, and decided I prefer to have the holes ready for the pins to
find - which can be easier on the eyes!). I never pre-prick for
needlelace, as the chances of coming back up through three layers of
calico into the same hole in the pattern without taking an age to do are
very slim. You would need quite a large hole pricked to ensure the
calico doesn't close up on you between pricking and couching, even
without the possible movement of the fabric layers. (Calico in the UK
is, I believe, called muslin in the US - our muslin is a much finer,
coarser woven cloth).
--
Jane Partridge
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