Hi Pete,
IMO, best to stick with Iso and follow what Ike noted. He also gave a
great treatment on how to identify bad solder joints; pay close attention!
Using D5 or some of the other stuff can end up causing the type of mess you
previously posted on the top side of the mother board. It will leave a
lubricant/protection residue (good *inside* pots and switches, but bad on
the surface of things) that will attract dust, dirt, etc. over time.
There used to be some really great cleaning, treating and lubricating
chemicals on the market but some of them were really toxic and probably are
what killed off many of my brain cells............TCE, DCE, and such.
About the most "harsh" stuff I use anymore is Acetone. It does a pretty
decent job of removing flux residue (if you scrub with an old tooth brush
well), but it can also dissolve and even melt some type of
plastics...........always test on a tiny portion before using! It's very
flammable too, stay ventilated and be careful.
A couple years ago on the list, someone had mentioned a cleaner/treatment
for pots and switches............."stabil...something"? I think you'd buy a
xx quantity and then dilute with water before using? Or could have been on
the Ampex list, (see what I mean about brain cells?).
Regards, Jim
At 03:25 PM 5/20/2011, you wrote:
so is isopropyl alcohol the way to go here?
pete
On May 20, 2011, at 2:59 PM, Ike Zimbel wrote:
>
> Proceed with caution. I just had a chat about this yesterday with a
colleague in Nashville. I own some D-5, and I very rarely use it. It is a
very powerful oxide remover, and should probably be removed with
isopropyl after use. Check the CAIG web site and follow their
instructions. I prefer to use G-5 (ProGold) in small quantities for this
sort of thing, and F-5 for pots and switches.
> best,
> Ike
>
> On 11-05-20 2:42 PM, pete wrote:
>> what is the collective thought on Deoxit D5 on this type of cleaning
we have been talking about (to resolve intermittency issues)? i have a
can of that on hand actually.
>>
>> -pete
>>
>> On May 20, 2011, at 11:08 AM, Donald Put wrote:
>>
>>> In addition to all the fine advice Matt and Ike shared, I've found
oxidized IC pins/sockets at times when going through my Series II. I've
also found ICs with bent pins that "curled" up when someone pushed them
in but were touching the socket just enough to get an intermittent
connection. Granted, this is a rare problem but it's one I've seen a few
times. When you pull a channel out, take the time to remove the IC (if
they're socketed on a Series III), clean the pins/sockets, and
reinstall. Even if this isn't the immediate problem it will go a long
way to help you avoid more issues in the long run.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> --
>>> Don
>>>
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>
> --
> Ike Zimbel,
> Zimbel Audio Productions Ltd.
> Toronto
> 416-720-0887
>
> "Studio House Calls". Authorized Warranty service for Allen& Heath,
Clear-Com, Drawmer, Soundcraft, SPL and Yamaha. Repairs and upgrades to
analog audio equipment including: AMEK, dbx, Neve, Neotek, MCI,
Soundcraft and more. Ask about our RF frequency co-ordination services!
> www.zimbelaudio.com
>
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