Re: Help /HORN CLAY

[Hugh Lovel]

Dear Tony,

I expect to be in Queensland from mid July to mid August. If there was
interest in it I probably could fit in a workshop in New Zealand. I gave
them a go in Australia in regards to radionic treatment and weather
regeneration, and that was successful as far as making rain. What I'm
worried about is how many farmers took home enough dowsing and radionic
skills to do that kind of thing on their own hereafter.

Best,
Hugh




> The horns that were still buried were new horns that I had been given and
>were buried to get rid of the insides All these horns have been lifted
>covered with a white fungal growth Hopefully these will  make some good 500,
>horn clay etc as they came from a convential cow herd.
>Thanks for reminding me.
>
> Best regards Tony R

Visit our website at: www.unionag.org

Re: Help

[Peter Michael Bacchus]

I have just recently used some horn manure horn clay mix, mostly made as my
father leaned it from Ernst Stegeman. Seeing the results causes me to
greatly regret having separated the clay out before stiring. when we applied
it to the family farm 40 years ago. When I / we stir a barrel of 500 here it
attracts rain. I have a long bamboo pole tied to a branch in a tree. With
three people stiring the rain has come within one hour of the finish of
stiring. When I stir alone it take five or six hours. I can just about see
the grass growing in the sprayed zone.
Peter.
- Original Message -
From: "Rambler Flowers LTD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: Help


>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Hugh Lovel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> .
>
> > chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such
> > wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it?
> >
>  Hi Hugh sorry for the delay . It has been a very busy week as well as my
> wife has been going through a homeopathic detox and it has made her very
> sick with the flu.
> Your post has reminded me that we  reburied some horn clay  and I have
never
> lifted it , will check in the next day or two and report back.
> Yes I have been using  horn clay ever since and my crops have been getting
> better.
> Back soon Tony R
>
>

Re: Help /HORN CLAY

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Hugh Lovel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 1:38 AM
Subject: Re: Help



>
> Incidentally, in making horn clay, when you take it out of the horn, DON'T
> scrape off the fungi and dispose of this before drying and grinding the
> clay, unless you are trying to collect a little concentrate horn clay
> fungi. That fungi is what you want, in aces and spades. It is one of the
> chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such
> wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it?
>

 Dear Hugh
 That horn clay  was made  from our own clay,  which is a yellow sticky clay
and had been buried for about 16-17 months as I had forgotten to lift it up
that autumn it was going to be 12month  horn clay . I have been using it
ever since  at first with the 500  stir . I then had Peter Bacchus potentise
it  for me to use along with Glen and Peters Garuda range of potentised
preps.
Last spring in  September I started to use all the preps in a sequential
spray programme from Steve Storch modified a little to suit my own
conditions.I am spraying every 2 months and I am very pleased with the
results especially when  we have been experiencing some dramatic 30 year
weather cycle we have gone from the coldest wettest spring to the hottest
and driest summer . it is predicted to go on for about another 4-5 weeks
which means for us a 100 year drought .
Anyway my fern crops which I harvest all year round  are doing extremely
well . The size of the crop has improved, production is better and so is the
qualility. I have not had any complaints for several   months. I have also
noticed that my usual summer pest problems are less this year.
Also a small amount of horn clay is mixed withall the preps 500,501,BC and
spinled over the worm farms and the leachate is use as  liquid feed on a
weekly basis applied through the irrigation.
Soon I will put down an autumn spring horn clay and then a spring -autumn ho
rn clay this will be for my more seasonal crops.
 The horns that were still buried were new horns that I had been given and
were buried to get rid of the insides All these horns have been lifted
covered with a white fungal growth Hopefully these will  make some good 500,
horn clay etc as they came from a convential cow herd.
Thanks for reminding me.

 Best regards Tony R

Re: Help

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Hugh Lovel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.

> chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such
> wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it?
>
 Hi Hugh sorry for the delay . It has been a very busy week as well as my
wife has been going through a homeopathic detox and it has made her very
sick with the flu.
Your post has reminded me that we  reburied some horn clay  and I have never
lifted it , will check in the next day or two and report back.
Yes I have been using  horn clay ever since and my crops have been getting
better.
Back soon Tony R

Re: Help

[Hugh Lovel]

o good stem formation, and the firery sulfur that draws
the spiritual hydrogen, etc. into biological activity. But not only does
this plant have the ability to stimulate the uptake of potash, it has a way
of flushing away heavy metal toxicity and purging the soil of its
contaminants. This explains one of the reasons it chows up on volcanic
slopes tht may have any number of heavy metal problems from mercury to
cadmium, berylium (a light metal) etc. Look at the way the leaves have more
periphery per unit of surface area than any other plant. It works more
strongly with the peripheral forces than any other remedy.

So it can be of considerable support to the horn clay in the development of
mycorrhyzae and the uptake of calcium, by ensuring the uptake of potash.

So now we have the uptake of calcium, magnesium and potassium, the three
most essential nutrient elements, all stimulated.

The BD remedies, however, should be used in pairs for balance. Since my
last workshop in Australia I've begun calling this tandem spraying. To use
the various remedies like a painter's palette of colors it tends to be
useful to use them in pairs. The common pairs are 502-507, 503-506 and
505-508. I guess I'll have to explain this later also, but this is how I've
been pairing up the reagents in field broadcasters for about three years
now and it is working beautifully.

Anyway, I've found that if I need to spray 502, then I need also to spray
the 507 the next morning to maintain balance between the earthly and the
cosmic forces. Balance is so terribly inportant!

What 507 does is stimulate the light ether and thus the phosphorus process.
Where the chlorophyll draws energy into the leaf, the adenosine
di-phosphate--tri-phosphate (ADP-ATP) bridge shunts this energy over into
building carbon structures such as sugars in the leaf chemistry. In the
brain and muscles just the opposite happens and the ATP-ADP bridge serves
to conduct the energy back out of the sugars as (Steiner so poetically
expressed it) "nitrogen drags oxygen through the carbon framework freeing
it of its rigidity." But anyway, the 507 by itself would lead the
phosphorus process on into its highest expression, blossoming. However in
tandem with the 502, the phosphorus process is held back into the watery
realm of the leaf, so no harm in terms of early, profuse blossoming comes
from using it. Rather it balances the 502 and the 502 balances it.

I really think the horn clay sprayed after a balancing application of horn
manure/horn silica would be likely to cure the spider mites by itself. But
in Anif's case I felt the little extra of the 504 (nettle) and the 502
(yarrow)-507 (valerian) tandem sprays would be the quintessential fix.

Really I hope Anif, wherever he/she may be, has access to these Steiner
remedies as I feel sure this will work if it can be implemented.

In my own case I use radionics and a Malcolm Rae type instrument with
Malcolm Rae BD cards where I can dial whatever homeopathic potency I want,
impart it to my spray tank of living water, and spray.  All I'm using is
patterned water. No stirring and spraying, no fuss or muss. Fill up the
tank, build the potency in it, and in 15 minutes or so I'm able to spray.

Thanks for asking for the details. I had forgotten about this.

Really I need to put this kind of knowledge down in a book so people can
get these ideas handily.

Best,
Hugh





>Dear Hugh,
>
>  Could you provide an explanation as to your thought processes for Anil's
>mite problem.  Perhaps now you are caught up and more energiized.  Much
>appreciated, Michael
>
>- Original Message -
>From: "Hugh Lovel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 10:19 PM
>Subject: Re: Help
>
>
>> Anif Dear,
>>
>> For this I would use homeopathically potentized biodynamic horn clay plus
>> stinging nettle sprayed or treated radionically in the afternoon. Then an
>> evening treatment of homeopathic biodynamic yarrow remedy (502) followed
>> the next morning with homeopathic biodynamic valerian remedy (507). The
>> treatment might need to be repeated a few times.
>>
>> I could explain why but it would take some time and here it is very late
>at
>> night. What are your access to biodynamic remedies and what would be your
>> means of applying them?
>>
>> Best wishes,
>> Hugh Lovel,
>> Georgia, USA
>>
>>
>>
>> >Dear Friends,
>> >I will be very grateful,  if anyone , can give me some information or
>> >suggestions on how to control
>> >Mites in Organic Tea, especially Red Spider Mite ( Oligonycus coffea )
>> >I work on a Organic Tea Plantation in South India, where we have also
>> >started started to appreciate
>> >the principles of BD farming and thus, very much in its infancy !!
>> >Thanking you,
>> >With Kind Regards
>> >Anil Dharmapalan
>> >
>>

Visit our website at: www.unionag.org

RE: Help

[A.M.Dharmapalan]

Dear Michael,
Many thanks for your support.
We have had some torrential rains over the last week and hopefully, the mites will be 
washed away
for this season, but we must be ready with a plan for next years attack.
We have made a brew and some peppers and sprayed it. Will revert with the results.
Warm Regards
Anil

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of mroboz
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2003 12:28 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Help


Dear Hugh,

  Could you provide an explanation as to your thought processes for Anil's
mite problem.  Perhaps now you are caught up and more energiized.  Much
appreciated, Michael

- Original Message -
From: "Hugh Lovel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: Help


> Anif Dear,
>
> For this I would use homeopathically potentized biodynamic horn clay plus
> stinging nettle sprayed or treated radionically in the afternoon. Then an
> evening treatment of homeopathic biodynamic yarrow remedy (502) followed
> the next morning with homeopathic biodynamic valerian remedy (507). The
> treatment might need to be repeated a few times.
>
> I could explain why but it would take some time and here it is very late
at
> night. What are your access to biodynamic remedies and what would be your
> means of applying them?
>
> Best wishes,
> Hugh Lovel,
> Georgia, USA
>
>
>
> >Dear Friends,
> >I will be very grateful,  if anyone , can give me some information or
> >suggestions on how to control
> >Mites in Organic Tea, especially Red Spider Mite ( Oligonycus coffea )
> >I work on a Organic Tea Plantation in South India, where we have also
> >started started to appreciate
> >the principles of BD farming and thus, very much in its infancy !!
> >Thanking you,
> >With Kind Regards
> >Anil Dharmapalan
> >
>

Re: Help

[mroboz]

Dear Hugh,

  Could you provide an explanation as to your thought processes for Anil's
mite problem.  Perhaps now you are caught up and more energiized.  Much
appreciated, Michael

- Original Message -
From: "Hugh Lovel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: Help


> Anif Dear,
>
> For this I would use homeopathically potentized biodynamic horn clay plus
> stinging nettle sprayed or treated radionically in the afternoon. Then an
> evening treatment of homeopathic biodynamic yarrow remedy (502) followed
> the next morning with homeopathic biodynamic valerian remedy (507). The
> treatment might need to be repeated a few times.
>
> I could explain why but it would take some time and here it is very late
at
> night. What are your access to biodynamic remedies and what would be your
> means of applying them?
>
> Best wishes,
> Hugh Lovel,
> Georgia, USA
>
>
>
> >Dear Friends,
> >I will be very grateful,  if anyone , can give me some information or
> >suggestions on how to control
> >Mites in Organic Tea, especially Red Spider Mite ( Oligonycus coffea )
> >I work on a Organic Tea Plantation in South India, where we have also
> >started started to appreciate
> >the principles of BD farming and thus, very much in its infancy !!
> >Thanking you,
> >With Kind Regards
> >Anil Dharmapalan
> >
>

Re: Help

[SBruno75]

In a message dated 3/18/03 8:51:58 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< Tony Robinson (Rambler Flowers) will probably remember digging up his horn
clay when I gave a workshop at his place in August of 2000. It was one of
the best examples of fungal (mycorrhyzal) development I've seen in horn
clay. But, of course, I haven't seen as much horn clay as all that because
it isn't so widely made as yet, having not been specifically recommended in
the Agriculture Course. Nonetheless, I have slides of Tony's horn clay and
you can see the rich fungal development. This is what you want on your
plant roots. Mycorrhyzal colonization of plant roots can increase the
mineral uptake of a plant by a factor of 10 or more. >>

We have observed extensive mycorrhizal development in the soil of the 501 
pits at jpi, a heavy clay soil...sstorch

Re: Help

[Hugh Lovel]

Dears,

Upon seeing aphids I would tend to think the sap is weak and watery. If you
tasted this sap (as good a test, if not better, as a refractometer) it
would be bland rather than rich and catch-at-your-throat. To some extent
501 WILL help, as it influences the strength with which the silica force
comes up from within the earth , and that is what carries the lime and
other strong minerals upward along with the nitrogen, which is what makes
the plant lush.

But the real key is the clay, which is the mediator between silica and lime
and is what needs stimulating if the silica force is to carry lime up into
the sap of the plant and to the growing tip. Thus the sure-fire remedy--I
suspect almost every time--for aphids is horn clay. Apply it along with
applications of horn manure and horn silica and you not only won't see any
imbalances between lime and silica and your basil won't rush too bloody
quickly to bloom, but you won't see any aphids.

Tony Robinson (Rambler Flowers) will probably remember digging up his horn
clay when I gave a workshop at his place in August of 2000. It was one of
the best examples of fungal (mycorrhyzal) development I've seen in horn
clay. But, of course, I haven't seen as much horn clay as all that because
it isn't so widely made as yet, having not been specifically recommended in
the Agriculture Course. Nonetheless, I have slides of Tony's horn clay and
you can see the rich fungal development. This is what you want on your
plant roots. Mycorrhyzal colonization of plant roots can increase the
mineral uptake of a plant by a factor of 10 or more.

Clay mediates between silica and lime all right. It's the bridge that get
the lime, phosphorus, potash, etc. into the plant.

Here's a "Steiner said." On pages 32 and 33 of the Agriculture Course,
Creeger/Gardener translation, Steiner is talking about the mineral forces
and their tendency to crystalize and to become free from the Earth's
influence and come under the influence of the "distant cosmic forces that
are within the earth." He goes on to say, "Let me remark here that if we
are dealing with a soil that does not carry these influences upward during
the winter as it should, it is good to furnish the soil with some clay, the
dosage of which I will indicate later. With the clay, we prepare the soil
to conduct the crystalline force upward, for the plant growth above the
Earth's surface."

Horn clay will also cure spider mites, grasshoppers, and quite a few other
insect infestations. I remember one Florida nursery under shadecloth where
in the less lush area Pitosporum had absolutely no spider mites while the
lusher areas were infested.There are a couple of species of predatory mites
that eat spider mites, and I was using a small Radio Shack microscope
watching this process. The predator mites were racing around the leaf,
pinching the sloth-like, sucking spider mites as though they were Hansel's
witch checking to see if he was ready to roast yet. In the area with the
weaker sap they kept racing around, checking but not eating. In the
stronger sap areas there simply weren't any spider mites. The predators had
them completely in check. Taste a leaf in the weaker sap area? Mild and the
juice could be swallowed pleasantly enough. Taste a leaf from the stronger
sap part? Whew, the caustic limeness of it warned you not to swallow. The
remedy for the area where the plants were too lush and the nitrogen uptake
was well ahead of the lime was horn clay.

Incidentally, in making horn clay, when you take it out of the horn, DON'T
scrape off the fungi and dispose of this before drying and grinding the
clay, unless you are trying to collect a little concentrate horn clay
fungi. That fungi is what you want, in aces and spades. It is one of the
chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such
wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it?

Best wishes,
Hugh Lovel



>>
>Have used 501 four times this season on indoor tomatoes. We had the best
>plants ever and unusually few fungal diseases. Sweet basil,though, tends to
>bud straight after application, but plants also ended up more fungus
>resistant. Small inconvenient really and a nice proof that 501 works! But I
>agree with Grotzke: I would not treat tomatoes and f.ex lettuces at the same
>time: unless I wanted seedheads on my lettuces!
>
>Daniel

Visit our website at: www.unionag.org

Re: Help

[Daniel]

on 15/3/03 2:23, Allan Balliett at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> What sort of experiences have you (anyone) had with using 501 in a
> greenhouse? I think that Grotzke advised that it is too strong for
> use in a greenhouse. (?) For this reason, I have held off using it.
> First outbreak of aphids makes me think of using it. I think heinz
> mentioned a residual and a generalized effect that henceforth makes
> the house uncomfortable for seedlings.
> 
> 
> But, what is you life experience?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> -Allan
> 
Have used 501 four times this season on indoor tomatoes. We had the best
plants ever and unusually few fungal diseases. Sweet basil,though, tends to
bud straight after application, but plants also ended up more fungus
resistant. Small inconvenient really and a nice proof that 501 works! But I
agree with Grotzke: I would not treat tomatoes and f.ex lettuces at the same
time: unless I wanted seedheads on my lettuces!

Daniel

Re: Help

[Peter Michael Bacchus]

I've used 501 in glashouses on tomato plants. The fruit flavours were much
improved.
   Much the same rules apply as those for outdoor plants; look
at leaf form. If it is round and juicy 501 is helpful provided the other
preparations are still active. If the plant has smaller, pointy leaves with
more pronounced serations, preparations from the 500 end of the spectrum are
called for, and or a feed.
Peter.


 What sort of experiences have you (anyone) had with using 501 in a
> > greenhouse? I think that Grotzke advised that it is too strong for
> > use in a greenhouse. (?) For this reason, I have held off using it.
> > First outbreak of aphids makes me think of using it. I think heinz
> > mentioned a residual and a generalized effect that henceforth makes
> > the house uncomfortable for seedlings.
> >
> >
> > But, what is you life experience?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > -Allan

Re: Help

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 1:23 AM
Subject: Re: Help


> What sort of experiences have you (anyone) had with using 501 in a
> greenhouse? I think that Grotzke advised that it is too strong for
> use in a greenhouse. (?) For this reason, I have held off using it.
> First outbreak of aphids makes me think of using it. I think heinz
> mentioned a residual and a generalized effect that henceforth makes
> the house uncomfortable for seedlings.
>
>
> But, what is you life experience?
>
> Thanks
>
> -Allan
>
 Hi  I have been using 501 and Potentised 501  under 30,000 sq feet of
plastic houses for 10 years and havn't had any problems . In fact growing
under cover I feel that you should be using it more often particularly when
light levels are low and plant growth is soft.
Cheers Tony R

Re: Help

[Allan Balliett]

ask the ants and lady bugs to come and eat...sstorch
Not the ants, Steve. Don't invite the ants to the greenhouse. It is 
they who manage the aphids...

Re: Help

[SBruno75]

In a message dated 3/14/03 8:29:54 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< What sort of experiences have you (anyone) had with using 501 in a 
greenhouse? I think that Grotzke advised that it is too strong for 
use in a greenhouse. (?) For this reason, I have held off using it. 
First outbreak of aphids makes me think of using it. I think heinz 
mentioned a residual and a generalized effect that henceforth makes 
the house uncomfortable for seedlings. >>

I don't know how Heinz brought the climate of Germany to his New Hampshire 
greenhouse but I do not doubt that he did.  If using the 501 to repel / make 
uncomfortable for aphids and not used to increase light, you may want to 
spray late in the afternoon, soaking the critters well;  you may also try a 
nettles tea and ask the ants and lady bugs to come and eat...sstorch 

Re: Help

[Allan Balliett]

What sort of experiences have you (anyone) had with using 501 in a 
greenhouse? I think that Grotzke advised that it is too strong for 
use in a greenhouse. (?) For this reason, I have held off using it. 
First outbreak of aphids makes me think of using it. I think heinz 
mentioned a residual and a generalized effect that henceforth makes 
the house uncomfortable for seedlings.

But, what is you life experience?

Thanks

-Allan

Re: Help

[SBruno75]

spray more silica/ bd501...  sstorch

Re: Help

[Hugh Lovel]

Anif Dear,

For this I would use homeopathically potentized biodynamic horn clay plus
stinging nettle sprayed or treated radionically in the afternoon. Then an
evening treatment of homeopathic biodynamic yarrow remedy (502) followed
the next morning with homeopathic biodynamic valerian remedy (507). The
treatment might need to be repeated a few times.

I could explain why but it would take some time and here it is very late at
night. What are your access to biodynamic remedies and what would be your
means of applying them?

Best wishes,
Hugh Lovel,
Georgia, USA



>Dear Friends,
>I will be very grateful,  if anyone , can give me some information or
>suggestions on how to control
>Mites in Organic Tea, especially Red Spider Mite ( Oligonycus coffea )
>I work on a Organic Tea Plantation in South India, where we have also
>started started to appreciate
>the principles of BD farming and thus, very much in its infancy !!
>Thanking you,
>With Kind Regards
>Anil Dharmapalan
>
>-Original Message-
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Behalf Of Steve Diver
>Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 7:50 AM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Fermented foods in China, book review
>
>
>Here is a book review on fermented foods in China.
>
>When you think about (EM) Effective Microorganisms
>from Japan and (IMO) Indigenous Microoganisms from
>Korea, you realize you can learn about agricultural
>applications of fermented soil and foliar cultures by learning
>about fermented foods and microbiology.Soil biology
>and microbial applications become clearer when you study
>the whole process and the culture from which they emerge.
>
>Regards,
>Steve Diver
>
>==
>Book review in:
>Food Research International
>Volume 35, Issue 6 , 2002 , Pages 595-596
>
>By
>Danji Fukushima
>Noda Institute for Scientific Research Noda-shi Chiba-ken
>278-0037 Japan
>
>Science and Civilization in China, Volume 6, Part V: Fermentations
>and Food Science
>
>H. T. Huang. Cambridge University Press, 2001, pp. 741. ISBN
>0-521-6527-7. Price: $150.00
>
>This book is part of "Science and Civilisation in China" series and
>focused on the scientific basis and historical background of the
>fermentations and food processing technologies that are the
>mainstay of the Chinese dietary system.
>
>The Introduction described in Chapter (a) begins with a survey
>of the food resources in ancient China, and an account of how
>the food materials were prepared, cooked, and presented for
>consumption. It is followed by Chapter (b), which is a review
>on the literature and sources used in exploring the processing
>technology. The main topic appears in Chapter (c): the
>fermentation technology and its evolution to the production of
>alcoholic drinks in their various manifestations. Included also is
>a comparison of the very different technologies between East
>Asia and the West for converting grains into alcoholic beverages
>and an explanation of the reason for this difference. The next
>topic discussed in Chapter (d) is the processing of soybeans to
>convert to palatable, nutritious food products, such as bean
>curds (non-fermented) or soy nuggets, soy pastes, soy sauce
>(fermented), and others. Chapter (e) is on food processing
>and preservation, including pasta and filamentous noodles.
>The subsequent topic described in Chapter (f) is tea processing.
>Chapter (g) relates to nutrition, which is focused on the natural
>history of disease in China due to nutritional deficiency. Chapter
>(h) ends the volume with a series of reflections on how nature,
>technology, and human intervention have induced the discovery
>and innovation of processed foods in traditional China.
>
>The most characteristic feature in the fermentation technology in
>East Asia is the outstanding role of molded grain mass of
>Aspergillus, Rhizopus, and/or Mucor, known as chhu or koji.
>This unique ingredient, mold ferment, was developed originally
>for making alcoholic drinks from grains in ancient China, but
>there was no parallel invention in the early civilization in the West.
>The author has ascribed this difference to the nature (cultivated
>grains and environment) and technology (prior art of fabricating
>a pottery steamer) through the speculation from ancient classical
>literature. In China, the grains, which are millet and rice, contain
>soft kernels that can be directly boiled or steamed. The climate
>in China is hot and humid in summer. Plant residues of both grains
>are favorable to fungal growth. As a result, the air over the
>Neolithic communities in China might have been loaded with
>spores of these fungi. The conditions thus promoted must have
>been appropriate for spores to find a suitable site on the
>steamed granules to stimulate germination and growth thereafter.
>On the other hand, in ancient Sumeria and Egypt, the major
>grains were wheat and barley. Their hard kernels had to be
>ground into meal or flour before they could be c

RE: Help with Our Feathered Friends

[John Wulff]

Re: Feathered Friends

Hi,

This John from Australia and to preface my contribution I am very new to
BD but at the same time very excited about the future and the potential
it will bring to my enterprise.

Have you tried making the appropriate peppers and applying them to your
plants ? Our workshop over this weekend revealed many stories of the
incredible success of the peppers.

Regards,

John
Divinity Estate\
Hunter Valley
Australia

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Rambler Flowers LTD
Sent: Monday, 10 March 2003 8:57 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends



- Original Message -
From: "Garuda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends


> Tony
>
> It does not seem specific, just any eating the crop that is sprayed. G

Glen I  have had a major problem with birds this season in particular
blackbirds,thrushes, starlings  digging plants up out of the ground ,
between 50 -250 plants  at a time. It became so bad this year that I had
to cover crops with netting. it is also very frustrating to get
blackberry and oldmans beard growing in amongst the crops. I even have
them digging up mature broccoli plants in the vege garden.  Along with
sparrow I consider them a noxious pest along with rabbits and possums.
Sparrow poop on flowers does not excite the consumer. Will bird scare
help in this area?

Thanks Ton y

Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Garuda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends


> Tony
>
> It does not seem specific, just any eating the crop that is sprayed.
> G

Glen I  have had a major problem with birds this season in particular
blackbirds,thrushes, starlings  digging plants up out of the ground ,
between 50 -250 plants  at a time. It became so bad this year that I had to
cover crops with netting. it is also very frustrating to get blackberry and
oldmans beard growing in amongst the crops. I even have them digging up
mature broccoli plants in the vege garden.
 Along with sparrow I consider them a noxious pest along with rabbits and
possums. Sparrow poop on flowers does not excite the consumer.
Will bird scare help in this area?

Thanks Ton y

Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends

[Garuda]

Tony

It does not seem specific, just any eating the crop that is sprayed.
G

- Original Message -
From: "Rambler Flowers LTD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2003 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends


>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Garuda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 7:57 AM
> Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
>
>
> > We have a bird scare spray which has shown good results on various
crops.
>
>  Hi Glen. What species of birds?
>
> Thankyou Tony R
>

Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends

[Christiane . Jaeger]

Hi,

Sorry, if I repeat someone elses comment.  I haven't followed the
discussion on this topic closely.  Has anyone mentioned flying a hawke,
kite, any bird of prey type of kite?  Some grape growers are doing it here
in Sunraysia, Victoria, Australia, and since they are doing it for several
years, I assume they are having some effect.  The main problem I think are
honeyeaters sucking the sweet juicy grape berries.

Yesterday I saw a cultural gem that brought a real happy smile to my face.
I was driving a long the road, when something bright and colourful caught
the corner of my eye.  At the end of each row of fruit trees, I'ld say at
least ten of them,  huge stuffed scarecrows were put up in the most
brightly coloured clothes; all human shape except for one that depicted a
dragon or dinosaur.  My guess is that school kids from the local primary
school  (they are very active here in hands on experiences having their own
vege garden, planting trees, monitoring river salinity, breeding and
releasing biological control agents etc.) made them and put them up.  I do
not know, if they work, but they are beautiful to look at, and I am sure
the kids had a ball making them.

Christiane

Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message - 
From: "Garuda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends


> We have a bird scare spray which has shown good results on various crops.

 Hi Glen. What species of birds?

Thankyou Tony R 

Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends

[Soilculturebiody]

what kind of feathered friends? 

Bob

Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends

[Allan Balliett]

why, what was the problem ??
Gideon.
Sending mail with attachments after I asked him to fix the problem. 
If he corrects that technical difficulty, I will re-sub him. -Allan

Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends

[gideon cowen]

why, what was the problem ??  
Gideon.
- Original Message - 
From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 3:21 AM
Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends


> Anyone with answers for "TJH" please sent them to 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED], I've removed 'him' from BD Now! -Allan
> 
> >It seems that our Feathered Friends really enjoy our crops.  We have put
> >reflector tape out, which only seems to work a few days.
> >
> >Does anyone have any workable solutions; physical, energetic or
> >elemental?
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
> >TJH
> 

Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends

[Allan Balliett]

Anyone with answers for "TJH" please sent them to 
[EMAIL PROTECTED], I've removed 'him' from BD Now! -Allan

It seems that our Feathered Friends really enjoy our crops.  We have put
reflector tape out, which only seems to work a few days.
Does anyone have any workable solutions; physical, energetic or
elemental?
Thanks.

TJH

Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends

[Lloyd Charles]

- Original Message -
From: Spiritual Renaissance Center <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: BDNOW <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 3:32 AM
Subject: Help with Our Feathered Friends


> It seems that our Feathered Friends really enjoy our crops.  We have put
> reflector tape out, which only seems to work a few days.
>
> Does anyone have any workable solutions; physical, energetic or
> elemental?
>
> Thanks.
>
> TJH

BD peppers applied at homeopathic potencies can work well, and applied
radionically with a field broadcaster pipe can be very effective too,
however its easier when the birds (or any mobile pest) have an alternative
venue. You also need to be mad enough at the birds to kill one for the
pepper or lucky enough to find a fresh one dead (road kill).
Cheers
Lloyd Charles
>

Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends

[Garuda]

We have a bird scare spray which has shown good results on various crops.
We are beginning trial on grapes with HortResearch tomorrow and should have
the results in a couple of months. Otherwise you could have a go.  What is
your crop?
GA
- Original Message -
From: "Spiritual Renaissance Center" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BDNOW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 5:32 AM
Subject: Help with Our Feathered Friends


> It seems that our Feathered Friends really enjoy our crops.  We have put
> reflector tape out, which only seems to work a few days.
>
> Does anyone have any workable solutions; physical, energetic or
> elemental?
>
> Thanks.
>
> TJH
>

Re: Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called "Our Margin of Life"

[Paul Fieber]

You can go to www.addall.com they have the book there under 
used books.  Half.com is selling it for $22.50

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Spiritual Renaissance Center 

  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 9:58 
  PM
  Subject: Re: Help to find Eugene M. 
  Poirot's book called "Our Margin of Life"
  Here it is: 
  Our 
  Margin of Life by 
  Eugene M. Poirot   
  Alberto Machado wrote: 
  Dear 
all   
I ask a favor please if any body knows where can I by the book 
bellow:Eugene M. Poirot wrote a book in 1950 
called "Our Margin of Life".  3   This book 
details his experiences in the restoration of soils and the health benefits 
to animals when fed crops grown on high vitality soils. His son-in-law, a 
veterinarian who practiced in the same town as I did, confirmed the accuracy 
of this account, here quoted from Poirot's book   
Sincerly Albeerto Machado    
Email : [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called "Our Margin of Life"

[Spiritual Renaissance Center]

Here it is:
Our
Margin of Life
by
Eugene M. Poirot
 
Alberto Machado wrote:
Dear all  
I ask a favor please if any body knows where can I by the book bellow:Eugene
M. Poirot wrote a book in 1950 called "Our Margin of Life".  3  
This book details his experiences in the restoration of soils and the health
benefits to animals when fed crops grown on high vitality soils. His son-in-law,
a veterinarian who practiced in the same town as I did, confirmed the accuracy
of this account, here quoted from Poirot's book  
Sincerly Albeerto Machado   
Email : [EMAIL PROTECTED]



begin:vcard 
n:;
x-mozilla-html:FALSE
adr:;;
version:2.1
x-mozilla-cpt:;1536
end:vcard

Re: Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called "Our Margin of Life"

[Spiritual Renaissance Center]

Here it is:
Our
Margin of Life
by
Eugene M. Poirot
 
Alberto Machado wrote:
 Dear all  
I ask a favor please if any body knows where can I by the book bellow:Eugene
M. Poirot wrote a book in 1950 called "Our Margin of Life".  3  
This book details his experiences in the restoration of soils and the health
benefits to animals when fed crops grown on high vitality soils. His son-in-law,
a veterinarian who practiced in the same town as I did, confirmed the accuracy
of this account, here quoted from Poirot's book  
Sincerly Albeerto Machado   
Email : [EMAIL PROTECTED]



begin:vcard 
n:;
x-mozilla-html:FALSE
adr:;;
version:2.1
x-mozilla-cpt:;1536
end:vcard

Re: Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called "Our Margin of Life"

[Roger Pye]

Alberto Machado wrote:

I ask a favor please if any body knows where can I by the book bellow:
 
Eugene M. Poirot wrote a book in 1950 called "Our Margin of Life".  
3   This book details his experiences in the restoration of soils and 
the health benefits to animals when fed crops grown on high vitality 
soils. His son-in-law, a veterinarian who practiced in the same town 
as I did, confirmed the accuracy of this account, here quoted from 
Poirot's book
 
   

  Email : [EMAIL PROTECTED] 


available from ACRES USA in paperback through Amazon.com or hardback 
through www.abebooks.com (run a search on the title)

roger

--

%%

May I have given you seeds,

that you can turn into roots,

that will bear fruit in the future. (Rudolf Steiner)

%%

Reiki Healer, Earth Healing, Natural Energy Divination

Earthcare Environmental Solutions

Re: Help with burying horn

[Merla Barberie]

Christy,

It really rained heavily all night last night and I was thinking that it was a
good thing I sealed that horn with bentonite.  Would it have filled up with
water and would that have been all right?

Last week, Green and I dug an oval hole in our tallest French intensive bed
which is in one of the warmest parts of the garden and put 10 fire bricks
(larger than regular bricks) three tiers high in it.  We potentized some local
manure with local basalt that my husband identified and I ground up 3 dozen
eggshells in my suribachi and put in two sets of compost preps, stirring the
valerian for 20 minutes.  We didn't quite fill up the hole because I held out
some manure to fill 14 horns that Joe Clarke is lending me.  I'll pick them up
today or tomorrow and get them in during this warm spell.  We covered the whole
area with quaking aspen leaves.

What ever happened with your video idea?

Best,

Merla

The Korrows wrote:

> I might suggest packing soil around the horn with in the clay tile, and if
> you think the bricks might get scooted around, you could tie some nylon
> screen over each end, as is sometimes done with stinging nettle.
>
> I know Hugh C. doesn't seal the manure horns with bentonite (I believe he
> does seal the silica horns up), neither do I or, neither does Jeff.
>
> I got my first stag bladder of the year yesterday. My neighbor Ron rode over
> on his four wheeler, pistol at his side, rifle in the holder, and a big buck
> tied to the front , he zoomed up and dangled a little bladder in front of
> me. So I am slowly gettting these guys trained.
>
> I am so happy your a re burrying a horn Merla!!
>
> Christy
> >

Re: Help with burying horn

[Merla Barberie]

Christy,

We did the BC too last week.  Finally got some manure locally.  We dug a hole
in one of our French intensive broccoli beds that was high and put 10 fire
bricks (bigger than regular bricks) in an oval only 3 levels high.  We
potentized the manure with local basalt and eggshells I ground up in my
suribachi and two sets of preps, put it in the hole and covered with a piece of
plywood, then covered the whole area deeply with quaking aspen leaves I raked
up from the driveway.  Hope all is O.K.  It rained a bunch last night.  We're
having a warm spell.  A friend, Joe Clark, is lending me 14 horns.  I saved
some manure for them (I think I have enough) and hope to pick them up today.

I was feeling glad I had put the bentonite in the horn this morning since it
rained so much last night.  Wouldn't the horn just fill up with water?  Is that
a good thing?

Best,

Merla

The Korrows wrote:

> I might suggest packing soil around the horn with in the clay tile, and if
> you think the bricks might get scooted around, you could tie some nylon
> screen over each end, as is sometimes done with stinging nettle.
>
> I know Hugh C. doesn't seal the manure horns with bentonite (I believe he
> does seal the silica horns up), neither do I or, neither does Jeff.
>
> I got my first stag bladder of the year yesterday. My neighbor Ron rode over
> on his four wheeler, pistol at his side, rifle in the holder, and a big buck
> tied to the front , he zoomed up and dangled a little bladder in front of
> me. So I am slowly gettting these guys trained.
>
> I am so happy your a re burrying a horn Merla!!
>
> Christy
> >

Re: Help with burying horn

[Gil Robertson]

"  I'm assuming that putting small mesh metal wire fencing material around
it is worse. "

Hi! Merla,
Yes, stay right clear of wire mesh, as it will work like a Faraday Cage and
negate any energy field.

I would rather try a stone lined pit, that in turn is filled with good soil.
If they are available, I would mix Paramagnetic rocks with Diamagnetic
rocks, in the ratio of six to one.

Gil

Re: Help with burying horn

[SBruno75]

Hi Merla, plug the horn with clay and use it with the 500 when done.  Use 
your powerful thoughts and great, wonderful, loving intentions, and place the 
horn in the sheath of the earth surrounded and protected by the light of the 
Christ.  In the Spring when you go to dig it up I guarantee it will be fine.  
You can do it...Love, SStorch
ps: your frogs are very happy here in Water Mill, NY

Re: Help with burying horn

[The Korrows]

I might suggest packing soil around the horn with in the clay tile, and if
you think the bricks might get scooted around, you could tie some nylon
screen over each end, as is sometimes done with stinging nettle.

I know Hugh C. doesn't seal the manure horns with bentonite (I believe he
does seal the silica horns up), neither do I or, neither does Jeff.

I got my first stag bladder of the year yesterday. My neighbor Ron rode over
on his four wheeler, pistol at his side, rifle in the holder, and a big buck
tied to the front , he zoomed up and dangled a little bladder in front of
me. So I am slowly gettting these guys trained.

I am so happy your a re burrying a horn Merla!!

Christy
>

Re: Help with 508

[Allan Balliett]

>Also, I thought I remembered something about storing
>this in glass in a window, but maybe I am wrong.  Did
>Courtney tell you to store it in a crock out of the
>light.

My recollection was that it s.b. in a crock out of the sunlight. Of 
course, that's my recollection..

Re: Help with 508

[Chris Shade]

Allan,

When I have let 508 ferment, I did it without the
leaves in it and it did ferment to a defferent odor,
sort of like letting cooked rice go bad, but not a
rotten sulfur odor, which would indicate strongly
anaerobic conditions.  Just my experience (somewhat
limited with this).
Also, I thought I remembered something about storing
this in glass in a window, but maybe I am wrong.  Did
Courtney tell you to store it in a crock out of the
light.

Chris

--- Allan Balliett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I've been working with a batch of equisetum tea of
> the past two weeks.
> 
> I made it with a unit of 508 simmered in 1 gal of
> water per H.C.'s directions.
> 
> I've stored the resultant tea in a clean heritage 5
> gal crock in the 
> back of our seed shed, where it's out of the sun and
> the temp stays 
> relatively cool, even in our 100+ weather.
> 
> I'm waiting for the 'characteristic' smell before
> making a D4 
> solution for storage.
> 
> I'm not getting the 'characteristic' smell, which
> H.C. says is a 
> 'just awful' odor. Instead, my tea has gone from
> smelling like oat 
> straw tea to smelling like little or nothing.
> 
> It's been two weeks.
> 
> Anyone else have a 'problem' like this?
> 
> To be frank, 508 has never 'gotten stinky' for me
> and I've always 
> thought that the straw smell was the
> 'characteristic' smell.
> 
> Help!
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Allan
> 


__
Do You Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
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Re: Help with 508

[SBruno75]

If it is equisetum tea and its been two weeks it must be done.   I would use 
it and prepare another batch.   If it is so hot it may have bypassed the 
fermentation point with the odour you seek.  Do another and pay closer 
attention...sstorch

Re: Help with 508

[Kent J Carson]

 allen , on 508, i simmer the horsetail in rainwater as to jpi's instuctions
for 20 minutes ,then put it in glass gallon jugs with the horsetail in it ,
store it behind the woodstove in the kitchen.,for 6 weeks . when opened it
smells like rotten eggs , a sulfur smell that even permeates into the water
when you spray it. i made the mistake in the past of forgetting to put the
leaves into the jugwith the simmered tea and got the same oat straw results
.  you will definately know the smell, when you've got it. hope this helps.
:)sharon
- Original Message -
From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 11:02 AM
Subject: Help with 508


> I've been working with a batch of equisetum tea of the past two weeks.
>
> I made it with a unit of 508 simmered in 1 gal of water per H.C.'s
directions.
>
> I've stored the resultant tea in a clean heritage 5 gal crock in the
> back of our seed shed, where it's out of the sun and the temp stays
> relatively cool, even in our 100+ weather.
>
> I'm waiting for the 'characteristic' smell before making a D4
> solution for storage.
>
> I'm not getting the 'characteristic' smell, which H.C. says is a
> 'just awful' odor. Instead, my tea has gone from smelling like oat
> straw tea to smelling like little or nothing.
>
> It's been two weeks.
>
> Anyone else have a 'problem' like this?
>
> To be frank, 508 has never 'gotten stinky' for me and I've always
> thought that the straw smell was the 'characteristic' smell.
>
> Help!
>
> Thanks
>
> Allan
>
>
>

Re: Help on buying a Refractometer

[Lloyd Charles]

- Original Message -
From: Moen Creek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: Help on buying a Refractometer

Hi Markess  &  Merla

The first part of Markess' post is probably good advice - need to talk the
same language as these bureaucratic types sometimes.
I have a pair of Gemplers stress detection  glasses and while they're useful
and would be ideal to identify highly stressed plants (water stress, salt
damage etc) from my usage so far there would be no chance of identifying
plants with a few points higher brix - in healthy growth. (as you would want
to do with nutritional treatments or even to see the early effect of BD
peppers)
Make a pair of vicegrip squeezers and you can get juice out of just about
anything (I can fax a drawing if you like or Allan has it and may be able to
scan it onto email)
I think I agree with Allan's post about learning this stuff in your own yard
first - once you have it sorted and can get a result and know what to show
these guys it might get easier.
Cheers
Lloyd Charles
>
>
> Merla,
> Call Gempler's for their catalogue. The Super can ogle all the rubber
> gloves, tyvac, respirators, measuring cups, boots & all. Then the
> refractometer will not seem so foreign. The product "coach" at Gempler's
may
> be of help to give you the type of language that will cut through his poor
> hazy consciousness. They may even have a pamphlet to recommend.
> The call is free and they're friendly folks.
> They also have "Plant stress detection glasses" developed by NASA which
may
> give you the information you want/need with a lot less work.
> Squeezing enough juice from roadside weeds to get readings will be
difficult
> if not a lost cause.
> The glasses are $50 and he can see the changes too!
>
>
> best of Luck
> In Love & Light
> Markess
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am trying to get the Weed Supervisor to O.K. the purchase of a
> refractometer on the Rapid Lightning cost/share grant.  He never heard
> of one and wants me to find someone in our county who has before he will
> O.K. it.  I have called Bob Wilson, the Extension Agent, but he hasn't
> returned my call.  Called again.  Surely he or someone can help, but
> failing that I will just have to try and convince the Weed Supervisor of
> the value of being able to test plants for their vigor 30 minutes after
> various applications.
>
>
>
>

Re: Help on buying a Refractometer

[Moen Creek]

Title: Re: Help on buying a Refractometer



True a must have even for garden plants aside from fruit.


>Squeezing enough juice from roadside weeds to get readings will be 
>difficult if not a lost cause.

But a pair of those modified vise-grips from Pike Labs will keep it 
from being impossible! -Allan

Re: Help on buying a Refractometer

[Allan Balliett]

>Squeezing enough juice from roadside weeds to get readings will be 
>difficult if not a lost cause.

But a pair of those modified vise-grips from Pike Labs will keep it 
from being impossible! -Allan

Re: Help on buying a Refractometer

[Moen Creek]

Title: Re: Help on buying a Refractometer





Merla,
Call Gempler's for their catalogue. The Super can ogle all the rubber gloves, tyvac, respirators, measuring cups, boots & all. Then the refractometer will not seem so foreign. The product "coach" at Gempler's may be of help to give you the type of language that will cut through his poor hazy consciousness. They may even have a pamphlet to recommend.
The call is free and they're friendly folks.
They also have "Plant stress detection glasses" developed by NASA which may give you the information you want/need with a lot less work. 
Squeezing enough juice from roadside weeds to get readings will be difficult if not a lost cause. 
The glasses are $50 and he can see the changes too!


best of Luck
In Love & Light
Markess


Hi all,

I am trying to get the Weed Supervisor to O.K. the purchase of a
refractometer on the Rapid Lightning cost/share grant.  He never heard
of one and wants me to find someone in our county who has before he will
O.K. it.  I have called Bob Wilson, the Extension Agent, but he hasn't
returned my call.  Called again.  Surely he or someone can help, but
failing that I will just have to try and convince the Weed Supervisor of
the value of being able to test plants for their vigor 30 minutes after
various applications.

Re: Help on buying a Refractometer

[Allan Balliett]

Merla - Thanks for your good compendium of brix information!!

I bought my refractometer through ebay for about $50. In many ways it 
is a piece of crap, but you'd pay Mr. Pike about $125 for an 
equivalent refractometer and Brixman has assured me that mine is 
about as good as I need. (Just check ebay. There are a couple of guys 
who are retailing asian refractometers through the auction method. Do 
a search. They have multiple auctions going on.)

Just my two cents: I think you're in a pearls before swine situation. 
I know that I'd choke really badly if I had to 'prove' what I'm doing 
to the sort of people you have to 'prove' stuff to. I think you're 
enthusiasm for the tools offered through this list may not be enough 
for you to attain the results you want/need in the face of the 
adversity around you. I admire what you want to do and what you have 
been doing but I would really encourage you to learn these techniques 
in the privacy of your own garden and not in the face of politicians, 
bureaucrats and public roadways.

Blessings on you, Merla.

-Allans

Re: Help on buying a Refractometer

[Lloyd Charles]

- Original Message -
From: Merla Barberie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: BD Now <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 6:10 AM
Subject: Help on buying a Refractometer


Hi Merla

> I have questions.  Do I want ATC or not?
Yes - it saves having to calibrate the thing repeatedly
>
> What is the significance of .02 and .05 accuracy?
Most of us (unless you are an eagle eyed teenager)  won't be able to read it
accurately enough in the field to tell the difference
>
> What is the significance of the great cost difference among
> refractometers?
a: retailer margin  b: instrument quality (brand name)

> How good a one do I need?
a decent middle of the road one will do fine - our meter man sells for $225
aussie - shoud be about US$110 to $140 for a ATC

> What are people's experiences with their refractometers and which ones
> do you recommend and why?  There must be more brands than I have named.
the real cheapest (of anything) has always got to be suspect for quality and
lifespan. I bet if Herb was buying a rifle scope he would go without rather
than buy the absolute cheapest one?

If you get going with this take time to re read Hugh Lovel's post that you
refer to here. You need to be aware that plant brix is a very mobile thing.
The most value is in the comparison measurements that you make in the same
place and at the same time  .
Even in half an hour the brix readings will change so that if you are
measuring the effect of a test treatment you need to again measure the
untreated at the same time.
Your state of mind and thought patterns as you do it can effect the readings
!!
Cheers
Lloyd Charles

> I went over my old BD Now emails on the subject and came up with the
> following below

> Thank you,
>
> Merla
>
> Rex Harrill P.O. Box 6, Keedysville, MD 21756 (301) 432-2979
> Westover RHB-32ATC (automatic temperature control)
> $135 + $4.00 shipping by priority mail [probably out of date]
>
> Pike Instruments, Agri-Lab Supplies Inc., RR2, Box 710 Strong, ME 04983
> (207) 684-5131  $125 (Acres USA)
>
> Gemplers, www.gemplers.com 1-800-382-8437
> Economy Vista $164 +-.05 accuracy
> Atago N-la $189 +-.02 accuracy
> Atago ATC-1E $330
>
> Char Downer, National Industrial Supply, 392 S. Miraleste Drive, #492,
> San Pedro,CA 90732
> RHB-32 $59.99
> RHB-32 ATC   65.99
>

Re: Kirlian Photograph was Re: Help support legislation

[Peter Michael Bacchus]

The type of photography I was refering to shows the light eminations round
the object, usualy in colour. the beauty of the photograph is that it showed
such a startling difference in the light eminating from behind the grains.
To get the technique scientifically accepted would require conciderable work
photographing samples with full growth histories. Perhaps attach it as a
further measure to existing long term trials like F.I.B.L. in Switzerland or
Lois Bolk Institute in the Nederlands.
Greetings.
Peter.

Kirlian Photograph was Re: Help support legislation

[Allan Balliett]

Peter - Can you fill us in on Kirlian photography? i.e. why was this 
picture impressive to you? -Allan

>Hi Tony, I'm working on the homoeopathic principle. If you say it often
>enough one will eventually reach the right potency and the desired effect
>may manifest. Thanks for your post on the Meter Man I met him briefly at
>Mystry Creek. He had a briliant kirlian photograph of an organic wheat grain
>and a chemically fertilised. the difference had to be seen to be believed.
>Cheers,
>  Peter.

Re: Help support legislation on genetically engineered food/crops

[Peter Michael Bacchus]

Hi Tony, I'm working on the homoeopathic principle. If you say it often
enough one will eventually reach the right potency and the desired effect
may manifest. Thanks for your post on the Meter Man I met him briefly at
Mystry Creek. He had a briliant kirlian photograph of an organic wheat grain
and a chemically fertilised. the difference had to be seen to be believed.
Cheers,
 Peter.

Re: Help support legislation on genetically engineered food/crops

[Peter Michael Bacchus]

This is an interesting contradiction in terms. To deny people the right to
food then demand that G.E. is going to save the world from hunger. We've
heard this story so many times before. From water soluble fertilisers, to
insecticides, to herbisides and now its medical drugs and Genetic
engineering. Have they (Monsanto) got themselves well insured against
mishaps or is John and Jane Citizen expected to pick up the tab
again!!!
- Original Message -
From: "Christy Korrow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Re: Help with Glycyrrhiza glabra when to plant?

[Kent J Carson]

my experience with licorice root...  i planted the russian version , yes you
should plant the chinese.i didn't and just harvestedthe 4 yr old russian
root last fall and it taste way yukkie! it may have the same medicinals or
not ,but it is an abdaptagene so i think taste is important. so plant it in
a pot on a root day and get some chinese.. live and learn :)sharon
- Original Message -
From: "jsherry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Bdnow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 8:41 AM
Subject: Help with Glycyrrhiza glabra when to plant?


> Hello,
> I have licorice which I am not sure whether to consider a root or stem
> plant? Steven Foster says it is an underground stem, Richter's little
> plastic thing that came with the plant says the underground stolons are
used
> for flavoring etc (oops, is that what a stolon is? An underground stem?).
I
> guess I thought it was roots being used? Should I have gotten the Chinese
> variety for medicinal use?
>
> Anyone know? I was thinking of using that little window this morning (8-11
> am EST) to plant it even though we're just after the eclipse. One of them
is
> begging to go into the ground, the other two are growing fast, and I would
> rather not wait a week.
>
> Anyone with experience? Thanks,
>
> Jane
>
>
>

RE: Help with Glycyrrhiza glabra when to plant?

[M.N.]

Jane writes: >>Should I have gotten the Chinese variety for medicinal use?<<

Jane,
I can't tell you too much about when to plant this guy, there are better
experts here than I, but I can give my two cents about the plant
medicinally.

Generally, I favour using the herbs from where you are, so American Licorice
(glabra) if you are over here. But, in this case, one point to consider is
that in some people, Licorice can aggravate hypertension by causing sodium
retention, and the Chinese Licorice (uralensis) has less of a tendency to do
this than the American you have.

I am not of the mindset that there are any inherently dangerous plants, and
I don't want to be seen as being on the anti-Licorice (or Comfrey, or
Chaparral, or whatever else suddenly becomes "dangerous" according to FDA)
bandwagon. Unless your hypertension is severe, most of American Licorice's
effects can be balanced out by extra water, potassium (i.e. take it with
Dandelion), and moderation of use. But, just so you know, the Chinese does
seem to act in a more balanced way at least regarding this issue.

I do know that both are really easy to grow, and lovely in their rambling
pea-vetchy way, I am quite fond of their "wood candy" roots. Both types
contain amazing healing properties wrapped up in beautifully complex
chemistries, I hope you get to know them well!

Strength & Wisdom,
Micah




Al-Qemi- Alchemical & Spagyric products for healing body, spirit & soul.
Visit us on the web at: www.al-qemi.com 

Re: Help Please

[Bonnie York]

On Friday, March 15, 2002, at 06:08 AM, Bonnie York wrote:

>  Hello bdnow friends,
>
> What would be beneficial to plant under apple trees?

I'm asking about beneficial grasses. Clover? Rye? Alfalfa? Wheat?