RE: [Elecraft] New product idea

2006-01-25 Thread Darwin, Keith
Yea, that's what I'm thinking.  Can it be tied to the ALC line in an
Elecraft rig?  I still think it would be a fabulous accessory for the
fine Elecraft folks to make...
 
- Keith -



From: G8IFF/KC8NHF [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 6:23 PM
To: Darwin, Keith
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New product idea


You mean something like this.

 *pic of LDG meter snipped* 

Darwin, Keith wrote: 

Hey guys,
 
The K1 is a great rig ... but ... I sure miss a real S-meter.
I'd love
to see Elecraft make an external S / Pwr meter that hooks to the
K1 or
K2.
 
- Keith KD1E -
- K1, Omni V -
 
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[Elecraft] Re: KXPD-1 Paddle

2006-01-25 Thread Raymond Albers
Paul wrote,
   
  I would be very interested in hearing your opinions about the KXPD1 
.
I've been using a Whiterook Products MK-64 mini keyer/paddle for a few 
years now
..
   
  I also liked the feel of the Whiterook double lever paddle so I took 
mine apart and took a block of Corian plastic (left over from a 
bathroom re-hab project years ago), cut a 45 degree surface on it, and rigged 
up a mounting for the Whiterook levers. Added a captive 6-32 screw and 
a mini plug, and now I have a substitute for the KXPD-1 that mounts to 
the radio and I like the feel of it a lot. If anyone wants details 
e-mail me  and I'll try to take a picture.
   
  73
  Ray K2HYD

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[Elecraft] Rover progress - transverter builds

2006-01-25 Thread John D'Ausilio
Moving along in the direction of the mostly-all-Elecraft rover
station, I've completed the 50 and 144Mhz transverters and should wrap
up the 222 this evening. As expected, the Elecraft transverters were
enjoyable to build and worked the first time (once I corrected my
jumper config screwups). I did find a small problem with my K60XV
during testing .. the input coax center conductor had detached from
the BNC connector.

Initial tests indicate performance at least as specified (and maybe a
bit better). Going to do noise figure and sensitivity testing next
week, but casual beacon listening and comparison to a DEMI/TS-850
looked very promising.

The physical layout is very nice also .. K8ISK and I are working on
building new side panels which will attach to each of the 4 XVs and
tie them into a single unit, spaced convienently to allow BNC T and
barrels to connect them together (might even extend them to the K2,
which would make a monolithic 160M-70cm station with the footprint of
the K2).

Current plans are to drive the beast to Dayton for show+tell and
shakedown prior to the June test .. if it doesn't end up in the flea
market it'll be at the FDIM hotel. Contact me closer to the date for
personal tours :)

de w1rt/john
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[Elecraft] k2 iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread n3drk
Is the manual incorrect on the menu mode for Iambic? It lists Iambic A as 
being the easier to operate. I believe it should state Iambic B.

73s
john-n3drk 


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RE: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Dan Barker
Either statement would be wrong to some fists. Use the one you learned. If
you are learning, I suggest B. Others might suggest A. Good luck!

Dan / WG4S / Southpaw B'er / K2 #2456

snip
Is the manual incorrect on the menu mode for Iambic? It lists Iambic A as
being the easier to operate. I believe it should state Iambic B.

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Re: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread vze3v8dt
Maybe easier is all relative.  If you learned on Iambic A then it is easier, 
if you learned on Iambic B then it is probably easier.  The one that is more 
difficult is probably the one that you didn't learn on.  

I didn't learn both and am not fully aware of the subtle differences between 
the two.  I do know that I was glad there was an option because whatever the 
default value was didn't work well for my sending style!  I found the menu 
option and it became just as easy as sending with other electronic keyers that 
I was already used to.  

Mark, NK8Q


From: n3drk [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wed Jan 25 10:01:11 CST 2006
To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes

Is the manual incorrect on the menu mode for Iambic? It lists Iambic A as 
being the easier to operate. I believe it should state Iambic B.
73s
john-n3drk 

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Re: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Tom Althoff
Rule of thumb...if you expect no more dits after you let go of the paddle,
use mode A..
If you like having a dit added because you held onto the dah paddle a bit
too long use mode B.

Which is easier?

 When I let go of the paddle I want the dit or dah that I am hearing to be
the last thing sent...Mode A.

- Original Message - 
From: Dan Barker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 11:27 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes


 Either statement would be wrong to some fists. Use the one you learned. If
 you are learning, I suggest B. Others might suggest A. Good luck!

 Dan / WG4S / Southpaw B'er / K2 #2456

 snip
 Is the manual incorrect on the menu mode for Iambic? It lists Iambic A as
 being the easier to operate. I believe it should state Iambic B.

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RE: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Folks,

The fact that mode B can send a dit just by holding the dah paddle a bit
longer has always boggled my mind - if I want a dit, I feel I should tap the
dit paddle!!!  Mode B can drive me nuts.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Althoff
 Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 11:52 AM
 To: elecraft
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes


 Rule of thumb...if you expect no more dits after you let go of
 the paddle,
 use mode A..
 If you like having a dit added because you held onto the dah paddle a bit
 too long use mode B.

 Which is easier?

  When I let go of the paddle I want the dit or dah that I am hearing to be
 the last thing sent...Mode A.



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Re: [Elecraft] MacLogger and CW KEYER

2006-01-25 Thread Paul Heller

Kalkwarf Robert wrote:

Hi, has anyone interfaced the K2 using MacLogger on a PowerBook G4  
with the new CW KEYER by microHAM?  I cannot seem to get MackLogger  
to OPEN the Port.  It is listed in the PANEL but when I select VFO it  
says it cannot open the port.  I installed the latest Nov 2005 driver  
pkg from  FTDI corporation


Yes, I do know that I can send CW via IOP.  I am just looking for  
more noise isolation and figured the Opto-Isolaters of the CW KEYER  
would provide that for me.


Any help? 



I'm a couple of hours away from the Mac  K2 I use together, so I can't 
check, but as I recall to make the Microkeyer work required a) clicking 
the mH box to let MacLoggerDX know it's dealing with a Microkeyer, b) 
choosing the right port  speed, c) untoggling DTR and RTS.   Also make 
sure you're using the latest version of MacLoggerDX - Don has recently 
added the ability to toggle type-ahead and also auto character spacing 
with the Microkeyer.


If this doesn't work, drop a note to Don Agro (author of MacLoggerDX) - 
he's great about support, and when I had questions he brought the 
Microham folks into the loop as well.


/Paul
W3PH

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RE: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Dan Barker
Southpaw means Left Handed (That's the hand to use, well, never mind).

B'er means I send iambic mode B. I can't make A work at all. It leaves out
elements I intend. I don't know what all the fuss about extra dits from
the dah paddle is all about. The timing is simply different for completing
what you are doing when you quit doing it. Different and Bad are two
distinct concepts (tell that to a racist).

I believe B is more prevalent than A, but someone who's learned A will have
a great deal of difficulty with B, and vice versa. I guess I learned on B -
I KNOW I learned on a Heathkit HD-1410.

I also think the K2 defaults to A, and I thought I'd lost my mind (or fist,
at least) when I first tried to use it. Luckily, I didn't fight that fight
very long. I found the menu setting to change.

In any case, there is an excellent comparison of the two, with timing
diagrams, referred to somewhere in the archives of this reflector. Might be
interesting reading if you haven't learned one or the other already.

The fru-fru is about character completion. If I want to send a C, as in CQ,
I squeeze the paddles. I'll be sure the dah paddle closes first and since
I'm holding both, the keyer will send dahdidahdidahdidahdidahdit until I let
go. I let go OF BOTH paddles during the second dah. Character completion
sends another dit and the C is complete.

I believe the A camp has to hold both paddles (or only the dit on - doesn't
matter) until the final dit begins, and then let go.

My addled brain can let go of both during a dah at three times the speed
it can manage to let go of both during a dit. So, I'm a B'er.

Another thing which makes Iambic keying shine, is element insertion. I
believe it's the same in both (if there's a difference, it's going to be
WHEN you do the insertion, not IF you can do the insertion). To send a Q,
you mash the dah paddle and hold it until the character is complete. During
the second dah, dab at the dit paddle. Between the second and third dah, the
keyer will stick in one dit, making the Q perfect.

So, CQ is
  squeeze (dah-first)
  release

  dah
  insert a dit
  release (dah)

in both modes. But the timing is what is different.

Clear as mud?

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

snip
Thanks Dan. By the way what is a Southpaw B'er? And we must have purchased
our K2's within days. My serial number is 2444.
73s
john
/snip

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[Elecraft] Bandscope

2006-01-25 Thread Karsten Eppert(DK4AS)

Hi,

have elecraft ever considered an adaper for the k2 to drive an 
oszilloscope as bandscope? Could be a helpful aid at least for people 
running the VHF-transverters.

73
Karsten
DK4AS
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Re: [Elecraft] Bandscope

2006-01-25 Thread Tom Bosscher

Karsten Eppert(DK4AS) wrote:

Hi,

have elecraft ever considered an adaper for the k2 to drive an 
oszilloscope as bandscope? Could be a helpful aid at least for people 
running the VHF-transverters.

73
Karsten
DK4AS


	Karsten, the answer may be even cheaper. There is on going development 
in the ham radio circles with Software Defined Radios, or SDR. Look at 
this web site for a $ 28.00 kit you can build:


http://www.hamsdr.com/login.aspx

(create a new user with the new user button below)

Some pictures of one built:
http://www.tracey.org/wjt/sdr1k/SoftRock40/SRV5-pics/

	These little boards give you a 40 or 20 meter receiver, with a moderate 
bandwidth (depending on your sound card). I use an external M-Audio 
Transit, which has 96 kHz sampling, and plugs in via the USB.


	My thought on this little unit is to get a crystal for 4.915 MHz, and 
tap the IF of the K2, and then monitor the bandscope on the computer. I 
just haven't gotten time to modify one of the two units I ordered.
	I was rather stunned when my wife and I walked in the Holland, MI club 
meeting last Tuesday night, and fellow K2'r Dave, WD8PUO had brought his 
$ 28 SDR kit to the club for a show and tell.


	Is any one else on the list experimenting with this SDR as a bandscope 
for the K2?



Tom K8TB  K2 # 3206  5050




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RE: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Dan Barker
Well, that isn't iambic, so maybe it won't matter. You should try squeeze
keying some time. Dial it back to 9 wpm and really pay attention to what
it's doing while you try to minimize what you are doing with your fingers.
You'll send faster, and with less fatigue. Also, the key will stay in one
place on the operating tableg.

I'm sure, slapper or not, you make use of some of the keyer logic, such that
an N is dah paddle, dit paddle, with both of them made and broken before the
first element is complete. It's only natural.

You probably do:

dah   dah  dit   dit
close open close open

while the keyer does:

daahdiit

whereas I probably do:


dah   dit   release
close close both

while the keyer does:

daahdiit

Not a lot of difference in effort or the keyer results. The only big deal is
on the interesting (from the point of view of Iambic) characters: C, F, K,
L, Q, R, Y, and period.

Do you really smack it four times to make an F?

Dan

snip

Well, I'm left handed, but I send right-handed so I can still write.
And, I'm part of the group (generally OT's) that just slap the paddles
back and forth since my first paddle was a modified Lionel J-36.  I
will check and see which mode I'm using as soon as I find it in the K2
menu.  I suspect it doesn't matter.

Fred K6DGW
/snip

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[Elecraft] Ten Tec Argosy II

2006-01-25 Thread Andy GM0NWI


Guy's

For those of you interested, I've just seen a QRP Classic  Ten Tec Argosy
II (digital dial version), in beautiful shape, complete with matching PSU
etc.. on that internet site that can't be mentioned, ...

Just thought you ought to know, the person has other things also..for
those of you who mite find it interesting.

72's
Andy
GM0NWI

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RE: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Terry Conboy

At 11:21 AM 2006-01-25, Dan Barker wrote:

The fru-fru is about character completion. If I want to send a C, as in CQ,
I squeeze the paddles. I'll be sure the dah paddle closes first and since
I'm holding both, the keyer will send dahdidahdidahdidahdidahdit until I let
go. I let go OF BOTH paddles during the second dah. Character completion
sends another dit and the C is complete.

I believe the A camp has to hold both paddles (or only the dit on - doesn't
matter) until the final dit begins, and then let go.

My addled brain can let go of both during a dah at three times the speed
it can manage to let go of both during a dit. So, I'm a B'er.


But if you only want a 'K', you have to let go during the dit (or a 
little after, depending on the mode B implementation).


It sure would be nice (for me, anyway) to be able to custom tweak the 
timing to something half-way between A and B.


73, Terry N6RY

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RE: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Dan Barker
That's not how a K is sent. A K is a dah with a dit-insert. I think the
fru-fru _MAY_ be that it's difficult to slap the key to B, but you can to A.
However, if you are squeeze keying, either will work - AFTER you learn the
timing.


Mode A K:
dah:  DAAH
dit:  DIT
keys: Daaah   dit   daaah

Mode B K:
dah:  DAAH
dit:  DIT
keys: Daaah   dit   daaah

Interesting, THESE are identical. The limits of where you can let go of the
DAH paddle probably differ, but the normal K is the same in both A and B.
Hold the DAH for the duration of the letter. Stick in a dit sometime before
the end of the first dah.

Maybe mode B will create an additional dah output if you release the dah
inside the letter. I don't know, because that's not squeeze (iambic) keying.
That's just wrong.

Dan

snip
But if you only want a 'K', you have to let go during the dit (or a
little after, depending on the mode B implementation).
/snip

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Re: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Tom Althoff
Dan is right...it now comes down to personal touch.   K can be squeezed
(both paddles held and let go at the 2nd dash) or dit-inserted (while
holding dash, tap dit then let go).

Dan's chart shows dit inserted paddle movement.

I squeeze my K's and this is where the difference between the two modes
bites the A user...

Mode A K squeezed looks like this.
Dah lever:  DAAH
Dit lever:   DT
Keys Daaah di   Dah

A mode A user squeezing a K in Mode B looks like this:
Dah lever: DAAH
Dit lever:  DIT   must let go of dit paddle
sooner to avoid last dit.
KeysDaaah di Dah   dit

The 2nd example is really how a B moder would send a C but if he sat at A
mode keyer he'd only get a K!

It's going from one mode to the other that causes mistakes...neither mode is
bad.  B allows for less finger motion I believe and perhaps if it was
available when I first learned iambic keying I would prefer it.   I actually
mix sqeeze with dot and dash insertion fingering nowadays because it seems
to generate the correct letters most of the time for me.

Whatever floats your boat.   When the Orion first came out it ONLY offered
Mode B.  There were enough complaints to cause them to add mode A in an
early firmware update.   We are a nation divided!   Code vs No Code,  Bugs
vs straight keys on SKN and now A'ers vs B'ers.  LOL.


- Original Message - 
From: Dan Barker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 5:55 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes


 That's not how a K is sent. A K is a dah with a dit-insert. I think the
 fru-fru _MAY_ be that it's difficult to slap the key to B, but you can to
A.
 However, if you are squeeze keying, either will work - AFTER you learn the
 timing.


 Mode A K:
 dah:  DAAH
 dit:  DIT
 keys: Daaah   dit   daaah

 Mode B K:
 dah:  DAAH
 dit:  DIT
 keys: Daaah   dit   daaah

 Interesting, THESE are identical. The limits of where you can let go of
the
 DAH paddle probably differ, but the normal K is the same in both A and
B.
 Hold the DAH for the duration of the letter. Stick in a dit sometime
before
 the end of the first dah.

 Maybe mode B will create an additional dah output if you release the dah
 inside the letter. I don't know, because that's not squeeze (iambic)
keying.
 That's just wrong.

 Dan

 snip
 But if you only want a 'K', you have to let go during the dit (or a
 little after, depending on the mode B implementation).
 /snip

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Re: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread David A. Belsley
This is interesting.  I learned on Iambic A, and that's what I used  
for years on my CMOS keyer.  When I started using the Iambic A on the  
K2, however, I found it frustrating beyond belief.  As a lark, I  
switched to the K2's Iambic B, and, lo, it was great.  It worked as  
naturally to me as the A with the CMOS.  So go figure.  I eventually  
switched the CMOS to B as well, and all goes nicely.  So go figure.


In any event, if you're trying to determine which to use, give them  
both a try.  Take the one that seems initially most reasonable, and  
then stop thinking about it.  Just send.


best wishes,

dave belsley, w1euy



On Jan 25, 2006, at 11:28 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Maybe easier is all relative.  If you learned on Iambic A then it  
is easier, if you learned on Iambic B then it is probably easier.   
The one that is more difficult is probably the one that you didn't  
learn on.


I didn't learn both and am not fully aware of the subtle  
differences between the two.  I do know that I was glad there was  
an option because whatever the default value was didn't work well  
for my sending style!  I found the menu option and it became just  
as easy as sending with other electronic keyers that I was already  
used to.


Mark, NK8Q



From: n3drk [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wed Jan 25 10:01:11 CST 2006
To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes


Is the manual incorrect on the menu mode for Iambic? It lists  
Iambic A as

being the easier to operate. I believe it should state Iambic B.
73s
john-n3drk

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RE: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Har! You guys remind me of why, after 20 years on the paddles, I put my
Iambic keyer on the shelf and use my Bug. Not only is it no more difficult
to get the timing right, it's perfectly capable of making long dashes for
zero, etc. 

When I do use a keyer such as the one in my KX1 for portability, I simply
use it like a bug. The problem is the logic won't let me make a proper long
dah for a zero. Sigh...

I know, a keyer is less effort over time, but I'm one of those nuts who
takes the stairs instead of the elevator too...

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Althoff
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 3:33 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k2 iambic modes


Dan is right...it now comes down to personal touch.   K can be squeezed
(both paddles held and let go at the 2nd dash) or dit-inserted (while
holding dash, tap dit then let go).

Dan's chart shows dit inserted paddle movement.

I squeeze my K's and this is where the difference between the two modes
bites the A user...

Mode A K squeezed looks like this.
Dah lever:  DAAH
Dit lever:   DT
Keys Daaah di   Dah

A mode A user squeezing a K in Mode B looks like this:
Dah lever: DAAH
Dit lever:  DIT   must let go of dit paddle
sooner to avoid last dit.
KeysDaaah di Dah   dit

The 2nd example is really how a B moder would send a C but if he sat at A
mode keyer he'd only get a K!

It's going from one mode to the other that causes mistakes...neither mode is
bad.  B allows for less finger motion I believe and perhaps if it was
available when I first learned iambic keying I would prefer it.   I actually
mix sqeeze with dot and dash insertion fingering nowadays because it seems
to generate the correct letters most of the time for me.

Whatever floats your boat.   When the Orion first came out it ONLY offered
Mode B.  There were enough complaints to cause them to add mode A in an
early firmware update.   We are a nation divided!   Code vs No Code,  Bugs
vs straight keys on SKN and now A'ers vs B'ers.  LOL.


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RE: [Elecraft] iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Mike Morrow
Don wrote:

The fact that mode B can send a dit just by holding the dah paddle a bit
longer has always boggled my mind - if I want a dit, I feel I should tap the
dit paddle!!!  Mode B can drive me nuts.

Tom wrote:

 When I let go of the paddle I want the dit or dah that I am hearing to be
 the last thing sent...Mode A.

The only thing that really matters is what you *learned* on.  There's no speed 
advantage or reduction in paddle manipulation advantage in one mode or the 
other.

Mode B timing IS much more critical than mode A because if you hold the dit 
paddle just a tiny little bit too long in an iambic dah-dit string, you'll get 
an unwanted dah, and if you hold the dah paddle just a tiny little bit too long 
in an iambic dit-dah string, you'll get an unwanted dit.

With mode A, you only get a dit or dah if you've pushed the dit or dah paddle 
for it.  To me, that just seems the logical way for a keyer to work.  Given 
that there is no discernable advantage to mode B, why anyone would want a keyer 
to send a character element for which no paddle was depressed has always 
baffled me.  Historically, mode B arose from a logic flaw in an early 
electronic keyer that eventually got advertised as a feature.

But...If one is just learning iambic keying, I would recommend learning mode B 
rather than mode A.  Some ham rig manufacturers don't give you the option of 
choosing the logical system, and provide mode B only (like Yaesu and Small 
Wonder Labs).  My SWL DSW units gave me fits because they had only mode B 
keying (until Jackson Harbor produced a full-featured keyer with mode A option 
as a replacement for the stock PIC in the DSW).

As much as I love my K1, I'd never buy one if Elecraft had not supplied a mode 
A keyer option.  Yes, it's *that* important!

Mike / KK5F




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RE: [Elecraft] iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Joseph Reed
Mike,
   
  I fully agree with you - mode B still baffles me and causes the infrequent 
error.  At least with mode A when I press the paddle I'll know what I'll get.  
The K-2 has mode A, which is a lifesaver in the pileup.  When chasing DX you 
don't need the extra character as that is the time they will hear you.
   
  I'm curious about the Jackson Harbor aftermarket pic, I think it also 
increases vfo resolution to 10 Hz doesn't it?  Please drop me a note off list 
as I might wish to upgrade my DSW-II.
   
  Regards,
  Joe N9JR

Mike Morrow [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Mode B timing IS much more critical than mode A because if you hold the dit 
paddle just a tiny little bit too long in an iambic dah-dit string, you'll get 
an unwanted dah, and if you hold the dah paddle just a tiny little bit too long 
in an iambic dit-dah string, you'll get an unwanted dit.

With mode A, you only get a dit or dah if you've pushed the dit or dah paddle 
for it. To me, that just seems the logical way for a keyer to work. Given that 
there is no discernable advantage to mode B, why anyone would want a keyer to 
send a character element for which no paddle was depressed has always baffled 
me. Historically, mode B arose from a logic flaw in an early electronic keyer 
that eventually got advertised as a feature.

  But...If one is just learning iambic keying, I would recommend learning mode 
B rather than mode A. Some ham rig manufacturers don't give you the option of 
choosing the logical system, and provide mode B only (like Yaesu and Small 
Wonder Labs). My SWL DSW units gave me fits because they had only mode B keying 
(until Jackson Harbor produced a full-featured keyer with mode A option as a 
replacement for the stock PIC in the DSW).


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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Amazing K1 K2 receiver feat

2006-01-25 Thread Jessie Oberreuter


 Heh, in the VHF contest last weekend, I had a full QSO w/ K7YO on my 
2m xverter with the antenna unplugged (and no HF antenna either).  We 
couldn't figure out why I was so far down on 2m compared to 6...



On Mon, 23 Jan 2006, Steven Pituch wrote:


I think it was Kurt N. Sterba who said once he was testing a rig by sending
code (a CQ) into a dummy load.  When he switched back to the antenna
someone was answering his CQ!  Now that’s QRPp.

Steph it sounds like your dummy load doesn't have ideal shielding.
Something is leaking out into the ether, but I don't think it’s a problem.

Steve, W2MY


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RE: [Elecraft] iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mike and all,

I have given up on the internal rig keyers already.  I have finally
assembled my K1EL K12 keyer that I hope will solve my problems - and it is
small enough that I can carry it with me to key any transceiver no matter
what the transceiver manufacturer thinks is the 'best'.  Certainly solves MY
problem ... others can go on discussing the pros and cons, but I will be
able to become acoustomed to my keyer characteristics and will not have to
work around the subtle timing differences of the various internal keyers.
YMMV.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 Don wrote:

 The fact that mode B can send a dit just by holding the dah paddle a bit
 longer has always boggled my mind - if I want a dit, I feel I
 should tap the
 dit paddle!!!  Mode B can drive me nuts.

 Tom wrote:

  When I let go of the paddle I want the dit or dah that I am
 hearing to be
  the last thing sent...Mode A.

 The only thing that really matters is what you *learned* on.
 There's no speed advantage or reduction in paddle manipulation
 advantage in one mode or the other.

 Mode B timing IS much more critical than mode A because if you
 hold the dit paddle just a tiny little bit too long in an iambic
 dah-dit string, you'll get an unwanted dah, and if you hold the
 dah paddle just a tiny little bit too long in an iambic dit-dah
 string, you'll get an unwanted dit.

 With mode A, you only get a dit or dah if you've pushed the dit
 or dah paddle for it.  To me, that just seems the logical way for
 a keyer to work.  Given that there is no discernable advantage to
 mode B, why anyone would want a keyer to send a character element
 for which no paddle was depressed has always baffled me.
 Historically, mode B arose from a logic flaw in an early
 electronic keyer that eventually got advertised as a feature.

 But...If one is just learning iambic keying, I would recommend
 learning mode B rather than mode A.  Some ham rig manufacturers
 don't give you the option of choosing the logical system, and
 provide mode B only (like Yaesu and Small Wonder Labs).  My SWL
 DSW units gave me fits because they had only mode B keying (until
 Jackson Harbor produced a full-featured keyer with mode A option
 as a replacement for the stock PIC in the DSW).

 As much as I love my K1, I'd never buy one if Elecraft had not
 supplied a mode A keyer option.  Yes, it's *that* important!

 Mike / KK5F



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RE: [Elecraft] iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Here's an informative link explaining Mode A and Mode B for anyone still
scratching their head in wonderment...

http://home.att.net/%7Ejacksonharbor/modeab.pdf

Or 

http://tinyurl.com/bqr2p

It's been claimed in various histories that Mode B was actually a mistake
made in an early keyer, but it was a functional mistake that ops learned to
use. Those operators objected to the fact that the last code element wasn't
automatically sent when expected, so manufacturers like the famous Curtis
who developed the first keyer application-specific integrated circuit (ASIC)
keyer chip, included both modes in their designs. 

Ron AC7AC

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RE: [Elecraft] iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Roger Marrotte
Don and all,

I kind of do the same thing.  I have an Idiom Press K3 keyer that I use for
both my HF rigs.  I modified the jacks on the back of the keyer to accept
cables from both rigs (+ and - keying jacks) and added a small toggle switch
on the front of the keyer to allow selection of either rig.  I find I just
didn't like the built in keyers from either rig, K2 or FT-1000MP.  They're
good but just different enough that I wasn't comfortable.  After all the
emails today concerning mode A vs B I tried them both using the keyer built
into the K2.  Forget A. What a mess I was making.  B was much better but
still a little different than the feel I get from the K3 keyer.  I learned
on B and that's that.  Anyhow, I forget who started this topic, but just
pick one mode, practice a lot and have fun.

73, Roger, W1EM

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 8:44 PM
To: Elecraft reflector; Mike Morrow
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] iambic modes


Mike and all,

I have given up on the internal rig keyers already.  I have finally
assembled my K1EL K12 keyer that I hope will solve my problems - and it is
small enough that I can carry it with me to key any transceiver no matter
what the transceiver manufacturer thinks is the 'best'.  Certainly solves MY
problem ... others can go on discussing the pros and cons, but I will be
able to become acoustomed to my keyer characteristics and will not have to
work around the subtle timing differences of the various internal keyers.
YMMV.

73,
Don W3FPR


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[Elecraft] VFO A/B mode settings

2006-01-25 Thread Stan Rife
I don't think I have a problem, it is more likely operator error. On
any given band, when I switch from VFO A to B, the mode does not change to
what I had previously set VFO B to. If I am LSB in VFO A and I switch to VFO
B, I set the mode to CW, tune around for a while, then go back to VFO A and
it remains in CW mode. It doesn't switch back to LSB for VFO A. Is this
normal? I thought I remembered that the mode was saved for each VFO.
I guess I need to read the manual again, after 2 years.

Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
 

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Re: [Elecraft] iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Ian Stirling
On Wednesday 25 January 2006 20:58, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 Here's an informative link explaining Mode A and Mode B for anyone still
 scratching their head in wonderment...
 
 http://home.att.net/%7Ejacksonharbor/modeab.pdf

  I have no idea, before I read about A and B, what
everyone is talking about.  I made an iambic keyer
from G3RVM's 'ultimate' keyer (Mk2) published in
the RSGB's Radio Communication, February 1980.
 It has auto charcter spacing, the addition in
that design to the original in May 1977.
   I would love to reverse engineer the gates and
flipflops to write such a keyer for a modern
microcontroller.  I am not up to doing that without
a serious learning curve.
 I have written one, with such spacing, but it
doesn't feel quite the same.

   I have given up on iambic completely now.
I can't stand inaccurate sending with extra dits
and dahs and don't trust myself.
 I programmed a PIC 16F628 to connect to a standard
AT keyboard, internal to the keyboard, and produce
morse as the keys are pressed, in otherwords, a
keyboard keyer.
  It has one component and an external regulated
power supply, a wallwart from RadioShack.

Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962
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RE: [Elecraft] iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Oh NO - there is yet a 3rd one - the 'ultimatic'!!! (and maybe there is a
4th and 5th as well).
As I said, I will just get used to my own keyer and be done with it.  What
is 'better' is a matter of individual tastes, prior experience, and just
plain old 'my method is best' - Decide what you are most comfortable with
and make your own CW the best that you can - the paddle technique is not
important, but the result (good CW out) is what is to be the proper goal.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
   I have no idea, before I read about A and B, what
 everyone is talking about.  I made an iambic keyer
 from G3RVM's 'ultimate' keyer (Mk2) published in
 the RSGB's Radio Communication, February 1980.
  It has auto charcter spacing, the addition in
 that design to the original in May 1977.


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RE: [Elecraft] iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Steve
For those who struggle with iambic keying, I thought this analysis written
by Marshall Emm (N1FN) particularly enlightening:

 -Original Message-
 Subject: [QRP-L] Twin or single paddle?

... 
 Recently it dawned on me just how little I'm gaining from the  iambic 
keying as I read this great article:
 http://www.morsex.com/pubs/iambicmyth.pdf
 

73,
Steve
aa8af


 -Original Message-
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] iambic modes
 
 Here's an informative link explaining Mode A and Mode B for 
 anyone still scratching their head in wonderment...
 
 http://home.att.net/%7Ejacksonharbor/modeab.pdf
 
 Or 
 
 http://tinyurl.com/bqr2p
 
 It's been claimed in various histories that Mode B was 
 actually a mistake made in an early keyer, but it was a 
 functional mistake that ops learned to use. Those operators 
 objected to the fact that the last code element wasn't 
 automatically sent when expected, so manufacturers like the 
 famous Curtis who developed the first keyer 
 application-specific integrated circuit (ASIC) keyer chip, 
 included both modes in their designs. 

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Re: [Elecraft] iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Ian Stirling
On Wednesday 25 January 2006 23:07, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Oh NO - there is yet a 3rd one - the 'ultimatic'!!! (and maybe there is a
 4th and 5th as well).

Don,

 Are you sure the ultimatic follows the Mk 2 in 1980?
I have the 1980 magazine but joined the RSGB in 1979,
so don't have the May 1977 issue.
 Perhaps the ultimatic is that one.

 As I said, I will just get used to my own keyer and be done with it.  What
 is 'better' is a matter of individual tastes, prior experience, and just
 plain old 'my method is best' - Decide what you are most comfortable with
 and make your own CW the best that you can - the paddle technique is not
 important, but the result (good CW out) is what is to be the proper goal.

  I use a straight key most of the time and have no
need of my keyboard keyer yet because my receiving
speed has slipped to about 20 wpm. I built G3RVM's
keyer in the heady days of September 1979, six months
after just passing the 12 wpm test, because I couldn't
send at 30+ wpm with a straight key.
  My receiving speed is increasing with the regular
listening I'm doing with the K2. I'm really anticipating
the context switch to hearing whole words again: that
happened around 25 wpm for me.

Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962
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Re: [Elecraft] iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread David A. Belsley


On Jan 25, 2006, at 11:37 PM, Steve wrote:

For those who struggle with iambic keying, I thought this analysis  
written

by Marshall Emm (N1FN) particularly enlightening:


Ah; I suspect this may be the same guy who wrote the original article  
on why a bumble bee can't fly.


Seriously, for those of you who are wondering all about this iambic  
stuff, the answer is simple.  Stop listening to all this advice (and  
I guess you can include this message as well) and just play around  
with it for yourself.  If you like it, great.  If you don't, that's  
fine too.  I suspect you'll find, however, that, if you like it,  
you'll like it a lot, regardless of what anyone else says.


best wishes,

dave belsley, w1euy

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Re: [Elecraft] iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Larry Makoski W2LJ

David A. Belsley wrote:



On Jan 25, 2006, at 11:37 PM, Steve wrote:

For those who struggle with iambic keying, I thought this analysis  
written

by Marshall Emm (N1FN) particularly enlightening:



Ah; I suspect this may be the same guy who wrote the original article  
on why a bumble bee can't fly.




Actually, Marshall Emm is one of the most knowledgeable people on Morse 
Code and Morse Code generating equipment that many of us know.  To 
paraphrase the old commercial, When Marshall talks  I listen.


To listen to Marshall work a QRP pile-up is a thing of beauty.  The man 
knows his stuff.


73 de Larry W2LJ



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RE: [Elecraft] iambic modes

2006-01-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Dave W1EUY wrote:

Stop listening to all this advice (and  
I guess you can include this message as well) and just play around  
with it for yourself.  If you like it, great.  If you don't, that's  
fine too.  I suspect you'll find, however, that, if you like it,  
you'll like it a lot, regardless of what anyone else says.

---

Great Dave! And the reader can do something else with your excellent advice:
enter any subject relating to Ham radio on the subject line. It's a perfect
way to approach our hobby!

Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] Making QSOs on a dummy load

2006-01-25 Thread Alexandra Carter
Remember folks the old Heathkit Cantenna was known for the amazing 
number of QSOs that could be carried out on it considering it's not 
supposed to enable any at all. 73 de Alex nS6y


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Re: [Elecraft] Making QSOs on a dummy load

2006-01-25 Thread David Pratt
In the old days in the UK, there use to be a non-radiating Artificial 
Aerial Licence.  An Artificial Aerial consisted of R L  C which 
represented the impedance characteristics of an actual antenna.  It is 
surprising how many QSOs were had using those devices.


73 de David G4DMP

In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Alexandra 
Carter [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes
Remember folks the old Heathkit Cantenna was known for the amazing 
number of QSOs that could be carried out on it considering it's not 
supposed to enable any at all. 73 de Alex nS6y



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