[neonixie-l] Nixie tubes, Power supplies and ICs for sale

[Shane Ellis]

Hello all,
I've gathered some tubes and related electronics over time, in hopes of
building clocks, and meters and things, but I just don't have time.  I'm
raising funds for another project, so I'm selling my Nixie stuff.
I have
11  IN-14
10  IN-1
12  IN-2
3 power supplies from Tayloredge
2 IN-9 bargraph tubes
and 34 74141 ICs
I'll offer this stuff here first, if anyone is interested, send me an
offer.

Thank you all

Shane

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAN0ECS%3DqAaYyseu6w2dFCnfgVB_GZJKi5Q1co1ZZw5WEvS3D4A%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: [neonixie-l] Anybody want to build some nixie tubes?

[Shane Ellis]

Who wants to go halfsies?
On Feb 19, 2013 1:05 PM, "Nicholas Stock"  wrote:

>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/261172534593?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
>
> Saw thisprobably one of the most interesting listings on eBay I've
> seen in a while...
>
> Go on, who's got 40K to spend and wants to make some IN-18's? ;-)
>
> Nick
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
>
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Off topic Circuit for automatic cat door.

[Shane Ellis]

Dont get so self righteous about animals.  Do you drive a car?  look at all
the poor little animals splattered on your windshield.  Get over it.

On Sat, Dec 29, 2012 at 7:58 AM, glasslinger  wrote:

> I had the same problem and used an induction coil on the cat food bowl.
> Doesn't hurt the cat but they never go back to that bowl again! I wouldn't
> cut the cat's whiskers (or claws) off. That is really harming them.
>
>
> On Thursday, December 27, 2012 11:07:29 PM UTC-8, Raymond Weisling wrote:
>>
>> About 1977 I had two cats and a 24/7 cat flap, but a stray was coming in
>> during the night and getting food left  for the residents. I breadboarded a
>> cat discriminator. It used two telephone relay coils that could detect a
>> small magnet passing between them, added to the cat collars and a light
>> bulb plus detector (photoresistor). If the magnetic signal was triggered
>> and a cat entered, it was a resident, if the non-resident entered, not
>> wearing the magnet, it sounded an alarm. I added  larger flap made from
>> cardboard and a solenoid that allowed the large flap to fall and close off
>> the smaller flap so no exit was possible. The no-exit flap solenoid was
>> actually manually energized by touching two wires together on the end of a
>> cable that ran to my bedroom. Everything was rather crude. I expected that
>> I needed it once.
>>
>> After I installed it I tested it with my cats with and without collars
>> and it seemed to work well.
>>
>> That same night at around 02:00 the alarm sounded, I touched the wires
>> together, the larger flap fell and I went out. The non-resident, hearing me
>> stirring, made a mad dash for the door and hit the large flap covering the
>> bidirectional flap. I tried to catch this panicking cat, and in the process
>> the breadboard and the lamp, photoresistor and coils all came undone from
>> their temporary mounts. It was a jumble.
>>
>> The non-resident had to be chased around the house, leaping up at closed
>> windows, and eventually I caught him, and trimmed off his whiskers with a
>> scissors. This is a very powerful yet harmless reminder since they depend
>> on them for feeling for passages that their body can get through. (A fellow
>> cat lover told me that once they trimmed off their cat's whiskers and the
>> can would be ware of going from room to room in the house especially if the
>> door was partly closed leaving a narrow gap.) They will be disoriented for
>> some months until new whiskers grow back. A good reminder.
>>
>> I finally opened the door and released the non-resident, who seemed to
>> traverse the back yard that was a least 15 meters (or 40-some feet) long in
>> three or four leaps. He never again appeared. The damaged cat discriminator
>> was summarily taken apart. I remember using LM324 and LM 339 in the circuit.
>>
>> One of the cats was a great hunter, and I lived north of the San Fernando
>> Valley in foothill areas (Newhall, CA) where some ground squirrels lived.
>> My hunter cat, a gentle calico, would bring home slain squirrels and leave
>> various parts somewhere in the house as a token of her skill, for me to
>> find and clean up when I got home. This happened on a nearly daily basis
>> one spring. Eventually it stopped and I found that the nearby colony has
>> been totally exterminated by my calico. For a while I had wondered what it
>> would take to build a prey discriminator that could block her entry only
>> when she carried a victim, but even now I suspect that that is a much
>> greater challenge.
>
>  --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web, visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/0BcqG-UuPrYJ.
>
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
>
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: GeekKlok and FLW up for grabs

[Shane Ellis]

Good on you Ray!  One step closer to redemption.  Though I probably won't
benefit from your products, I'm sure some in this group will.  Here's to a
better future!

On Dec 6, 2012, at 1:29 AM, Raymond Weisling  wrote:

I have tested the waters and find it infested with hungry gators and crocs.
;-)

So here is what I will do. I will give away all intellectual property for
these several products and variations thereof. That includes:

1. PCB artwork in Gerber files for  the single board and the newer split
boards (very few were made--more below on that).

2. PCB artwork files, if anybody wants them, but they are for the first
desktop PCB CAD program issued in 1984 for Macintosh and still apparently
supported as of about five years ago,(Douglas Electronics)

3. Source code for FLW, GKK and the GAM.

4. Object code in Motorola S19 files.

5. Several TKD case designs made from acrylic plastic that is laser cut to
shape.

6. The user manuals and other buyer documentation in PDF form and in
FreeHand 8 files (the originals from which the PDFs are made. It may not be
easy to use the FH8 files, but the stuff is there.

7. Other assorted documents. I'm not sure what miscellaneous stuff is
there, haven't looked for a while.

This Google group has no files section, so where to send it or upload it?

It will take me some time to sift through it and perhaps reorganize it and
then ZIP/RAR it. I am not sure how much time I have, it could take a week
or so.
--
I still have some parts, lots of Mill-Max socket pins (which fit many
nixies) but these would have to go to someone and whoever gets them will
have to pay for shipping and maybe a tad more. There are a few PCBs both
large and split, but I am not at this point (today) going to do a detailed
inventory. Let's toss this physical offer around. Any suggestions? It is
likely that whoever wants this has no debt from me, so they get a gift of
sorts. You may ask questions on what I think is there.

Thanks -- Ray


 --
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/NOMSQA_98zIJ.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: [neonixie-l] Digest for neonixie-l@googlegroups.com - 4 Messages in 2 Topics

[Shane Ellis]

How many of you got an e-mail from Ray after you bought a kit or clock,
telling you what happened?  Or that you weren't getting what you paid for?
 He gladly took, and kept the money, and ran.

On Dec 5, 2012, at 9:35 AM, westdave  wrote:

ray you did do a ponzi scam you did try to cover your losses by running a
two-fer sale of kits .i bet the money just poured in to buy two FLWC at a
good price ,i fell for it , as you know I got nothing .. and i AM STILL
HERE, I AM AROUND TO TALK TO !
if you were reachable to the USA you would have a class action law suit on
you hands , so you have doged the bullet so far?poison pen ? i don't think
so ,I hope you don't come sleezing around this fine group of fellows
with all your blue jazz.and say,all of us ,other vendors never had your
kind of BS


-Original Message-
From: neonixie-l 
To: Digest Recipients 
Sent: Tue, Dec 4, 2012 11:53 pm
Subject: [neonixie-l] Digest for neonixie-l@googlegroups.com - 4 Messages
in 2 Topics

   Today's Topic Summary
Group: http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l/topics

   - GeekKlok and FLW up for grabs <#group_thread_0> [3 Updates]
   - Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s <#group_thread_1> [1 Update]

  GeekKlok and FLW up for
grabs

   Raymond Weisling  Dec 04 07:09PM -0800

   I feel it is only reasonable that I defend myself from the poison pens
   that
   gathered.

   The history is that my company went bankrupt, or was forced to close its
   doors. These nixie product were not al all the main business We did new
   product design engineering for a US-client that made health care signal
   systems and they were my client (before I formed a corporation) from
   1990
   to 1999, with one assistant working with me. In 1999 things with them
   were
   looking better and I had some money to invest in forming a limited
   liability corporation here in Indonesia. I then hired four engineers and
   we
   kept this client in California happy until 2005 or 2006. Then they were
   bought out by Tyco International, and for about a year we kept running
   but
   suddenly they gave us notice that they were moving everything and
   merging
   with Simplex Time Recorder in Massachusetts, where they already had 80+
   engineers. My 4-man team meant nothing to their bottom line.

   At that point we began working with a local company that made traffic
   lights and took them on as a client. After about five months of work,
   they
   were unable to pay close to $5000 in invoices, and we had to stop. I had
   to
   take care of my staff during this time of promises from the other
   company,
   but when it was clear that they were unable to pay (they were cheated
   out
   of $40,000), my staff quit one by one, because I was forced to pay their
   salaries late. This is where the whole thing unraveled. Several times I
   tried to recover and eek out a living with the nixie products, but with
   too
   little capital to invest and sudden expenses from some health
   emergencies,
   we were in a spiral. Debts piled up. I'm paying interest of 30-40% oer
   year
   on some debts, which makes it very hard to climb out of a slimy hole.

   I'd love to pay everyone back and I never had any intention to cheat or
   defraud anyone ever. (Someone said hundreds of customers who didn't get
   products, but the total is probably about 50-70.)

   As for loss of sales data and no loss of engineering materials, the
   engineering materials were on two old Macintosh computers, one of which
   is
   still working at age 12. The sales stuff was in a PC Windows machine
   that
   got hit by lightning surge, in a different part of the house, quite
   removed
   from the other. We had the old Zetalink office in a separate garage, and
   that is where I put kits tohether, did assembly of units and packed
   orders
   for shipping. That's where both telephone and electric power lines
   entered
   the premises. The engineering files in my Mac were in a second floor
   bedroom converted to an office, quite separated, and protected with a
   good
   surge protector. (The adjoining room had some non-nixie things and
   that's
   the room where a whole wall collapsed in the May 2006 earthquake, more
   ton
   a ton of debris was all over the contents. That earthquake was only 5.9
   magnitude, but killed about 6000 people (on my own Dwelling
   Unpreparedness
   Index (DUI) it was the third worst worldwide earthquake since 1945).

   I just want to see that these products continue on and can help pay off
   some of my local debts where interest is so high. A hospital project
   coming
   up may provide enough funds for refunds to people, but the banking
   details
   for it have been delayed for six months or more. I just don't want to
   cheat
   anyone, never did intentionally, and certainly have no interest in doing
   it
   again. Bad Karma.

   I hope that the bitter people can release their poison. 

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: GeekKlok and FLW up for grabs

[Shane Ellis]

Crawl back under your slimy rock Ray.  No ones buying.

On Dec 2, 2012, at 7:43 PM, Raymond Weisling  wrote:

Also I would include a number of different drawings for laser-cut acrylic
cases that are very attractive, both for the large board and split PCB
versions. These are FreeHand or Corel-draw files that any laser cutting
operation can do. These cases also could be sold to retrofit to existing
FLW/GKK units

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/q3geAbf93oAJ.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: [neonixie-l] Newbie 74141 help

[Shane Ellis]

You need to bring the binary pins high or low.  You've got them
floating.  Get a datasheet for the chip, and add voltages to the ABCD
pins, in the proper configuration.  There is a binary chart, as well
as corresponding binary to pin layout, on that datasheet.

On Sep 24, 2012, at 9:42 PM, Sean  wrote:

> I'm trying to figure out how a 74141 IC works, but it's making me feel 
> stupid. Please keep in mind that i am completely new to electronics and 
> circuits. Help?!?
>
> I've got a 74141 on a breadboard. Based on the datasheets and nixie clock 
> schematics I've been studying I put 5vdc at pin 5 and pin 12 to ground. Right 
> now I'm just trying to light up an LED (some nixies are coming in the mail). 
> So I connected the LED to the 5v and to the 0 output at pin 16. Since all 
> four inputs are at no power shouldn't this light the LED. Please tell me I'm 
> just doing something stupid.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web, visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/iufh07zGeP4J.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: [neonixie-l] ATTENTION !!!! maybe Nixie cheater at Ebay

[Shane Ellis]

Member since April 2011, and NO FEEDBACK?!  Yeah, I'd stay away too.



On Aug 20, 2012, at 3:09 PM, Dieter Waechter  wrote:

> BE CAREFUL!!!
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130752003847&item=130752003847&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466
>
> DO NOT BUY FROM HIM!
> Dieter
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: [neonixie-l] Nixie flash drive

[Shane Ellis]

That would end up being a large-ish flash drive, what with, tube, power
supply, and circuit.

On Sat, Feb 4, 2012 at 1:25 PM, kay486  wrote:

> I wonder if anybody made flash drives that would have tini nixie tubes
> at the end (something like IN-17) It would look just really nice when
> you would stick the drive in the computer and then he digits would
> start to randomly fade/flash or something. Sadly i do not have the
> skill to figure that out how to make it by myself, but id love to see
> it if it was already done.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Merry Christmas

[Shane Ellis]

Marry Christmas to all!!!

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 24, 2011, at 7:01 AM, fixitsan  wrote:

> I would just like to wish all group members a Happy Christmas
> 
> It is 10 years ago that I began my first experiments with nixie tubes,
> when I decided that I wanted to make a nixie clock for my father's
> 60th birthday present. So, beginning in November I ordered tubes, some
> PICs, downloaded Microchip's MPLAB for the first time and taught
> myself assembly language for PICs. It was a steep learning curve
> considering the 10 week deadline, but I couldn't afford a higher level
> language so battled on.
> 
> Then my interest continued with an invite from Ray Weisling to join
> the first nixie group, NEONIXIE-L on Yahoo, when he saw me selling
> clock number 2 on eBay, which I made in order to pay for both clocks.
> 
> It is nice to see so many of those members are also here, and with you
> there is also a huge number of new people with an interest in nixies.
> It is nice to know that so many people share an interest with
> yourself !
> 
> Although I built the first clock alone, it is true to say that I would
> not have improved my skills or opened my mind to some very interesting
> ideas had it not been for my membership of that group, and the
> support, the nagging, challenges and humour shared among all members
> there, and now here.
> 
> I seem to have taken those ideas sideways into developing the
> Smartsocket concept, originally for neon based tubes and now for the
> IV-17 vfd tubes which I first began experimenting with in 2007. (it
> has been a slow project !)
> 
> Merry Christmas and the best of the season to you all and your
> families
> 
> Chris
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at 
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
> 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Soldering the wire leads on a IN-14

[Shane Ellis]

I use heatsink tweezers when I solder IN14s.  I've never had an issue with a
seal failure.
 On Sep 5, 2011 1:19 PM, "Ryan McDonald"  wrote:
> I've heard that soldering the leads on IN-14's can cause premature
> seal failure. I've also heard that staying at least 5mm from the
> glass largely mitigates this problem. Can anyone make any
> recommendations concerning the soldering (or makeshift socketing) of
> IN-14's?
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: How about this weather... I ran out of memory!?! HA!

[Shane Ellis]

Happy birthday man!  Though mine turned out to be...how shall I say, less
than ideal, I hope you had a good one!

On Tue, Jul 26, 2011 at 9:09 PM, Terry S  wrote:

> Hey, Mine too!!!
>
> On Jul 26, 2:59 pm, Shane Ellis  wrote:
> > Thank you sir, I'll do some reading tonight.  It's my annual "birthday
> night
> > off" so i can actually read, and have a chance that I will retain it.
> >
> > Gosub here I come.
> >
> > Shane
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] How about this weather... I ran out of memory!?! HA!

[Shane Ellis]

Thank you sir, I'll do some reading tonight.  It's my annual "birthday night
off" so i can actually read, and have a chance that I will retain it.

Gosub here I come.

Shane

On Tue, Jul 26, 2011 at 2:32 PM, Adam Jacobs  wrote:

> yep, you're right, you need to learn about subroutines. Basically, you
> need:
> 1) a main loop
> 2) a subroutine that increments the time (time is kept in a variable [or a
> few variables, if you like])
> 3) a subroutine that displays the time (that it found in the time variable)
>
> This is all part of the learning process. You're doing great, but I would
> definitely work on the software before adding an eeprom.
>
> -Adam
>
>
> On 7/26/2011 12:20 PM, Shane Ellis wrote:
>
>> Here is my basic BASIC code.  I haven't added the "seconds" yet, nor a way
>> to set the minutes.  I was going to start this breadboarded clock at "ten
>> o'clock" and let it run for a while, then get into the settings code later
>> on, after I know my timing coding is good.
>> I'm assuming the "gosub" commands will help me save a lot of "white space"
>> and memory, I just wanted to get these four tubes going, to keep my spirits
>> up, and keep me motivated :)
>>
>> code is as follows:
>>
>>
>>
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@**
> googlegroups.com .
> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/**
> group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB<http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB>
> .
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] How about this weather... I ran out of memory!?! HA!

[Shane Ellis]

No no no, the memory is much larger, the program I wrote is probably very
primitive, and large.  I overran the available memory BY 408 bytes.  Picaxe
is good for me, because I don't know another language, and don't really have
time to devote to learning.  BASIC does present coding challenges, but I
like the problem solving aspect presented there.

@Dennis, I'm hoping the Picaxe manuals will cover the eeprom connection, as
an easy memory addition.  I looked and for some reason, I have a couple
24LC256 in my "programming stuff" box, after the youngins go to bed, I'll
figure out how to set this up.  I should probably try to shrink my program
as well...

Shane

On Sun, Jul 24, 2011 at 3:14 PM, Adam Jacobs  wrote:

> Holy smokes. Are you serious? The maximum onboard program memory on the
> picaxe is 408 bytes?
>
> .. I don't mean to sound like a religious fanatic, but exactly what is the
> advantage of this platform? I understand that people like to use them to
> program their clocks in basic.. but it seems like you're losing all of that
> "ease of learning" if it means needing to understand how to interface in an
> i2C EEPROM. Am I missing something?
>
> If it was me, I would take this opportunity to switch platforms to the
> arduino.
>
> -Adam
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 24, 2011 at 11:53 AM, Mimewar  wrote:
>
>> It's funny, in the "if it's not one thing, it's another" kind of way.
>>
>> I got two tubes running (0-99), then three(0-999) I get to four, all
>> is well, then I write my entire clock code( no seconds yet), go to
>> program the picaxe, and BAM, program is too large by 408 bytes.
>> So now, I get to (have to) get familiar with Eeproms.
>>
>> On the plus side, I removed a chunk of code ( time after 9:00), and it
>> runs just fine with the four tubes.  First time I have ever had four
>> tubes running, and working.
>>
>> Eeproms, here I come.
>>
>> Shane
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "neonixie-l" group.
>> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit this group at
>> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>>
>>
>  --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: How often does a 74141 go bad, or arrive dead?

[Shane Ellis]

I never really thought of these older ICs having "seals", but it makes
sense, in the sandwich sense.  I looked at one of the Fairchild 74141s, and
where the epoxy is sandwiched between the ceramic, sure enough, there's a
hole in there.  I thought it was a bubble, but using a high tech tool called
a "needle" I poked the bad chip, and it goes a ways in.  Shame.  I have two
other Fairchild chips to use (test first), and then I have about twenty
Russian K1551D1 in stock.  Fingers crossed

Shane

On Fri, Jul 22, 2011 at 10:08 PM, Terry S  wrote:

> I'm starting to see a dramatic increase in the rate of failure on old
> chips like that, both at home and in my lab at work where I have
> drawers full of old TTL and CMOS -- in anti static packaging. I think
> that the hermetic seal of the IC packages are breaking down over the
> decades.
>
> Typically the legs show high rates of tarnish on the failure prone
> chips, but I see that on good chips as well. I suspect the failure
> rate will go up. It doesn't bode well for a lot of old equipment and
> computers that employ these parts.
>
> Terry
>
>
>
> On Jul 22, 8:08 pm, Mimewar  wrote:
> > I'm up to three tubes, (coding takes longer than wiring) funny thing
> > is, the first 74141 (Fairchild I assume by the capitol "F") wouldn't
> > display "5" or "6", so I swapped it for another, this time the "4"
> > stays on all the time.  I tried a third, and that one works.  I have
> > caps added across all ICs, and the third try worked.  Is this common?
> > Are the Russian 74141s better than the US?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Shane
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] neonixie-l, Shane Ellis wants to chat

[Shane Ellis]

I've been using Google Talk and thought you might like to try it out.
We can use it to call each other for free over the internet. Here's an
invitation to download Google Talk. Give it a try!

-------

Shane Ellis wants to stay in better touch using some of Google's coolest new
products.

If you already have Gmail or Google Talk, visit:
http://mail.google.com/mail/b-d9b565a15d-0b3f5959e6-CMHoynIhYl7lXB-2_JP_4wKAmY0
You'll need to click this link to be able to chat with Shane Ellis.

To get Gmail - a free email account from Google with over 2,800 megabytes of
storage - and chat with Shane Ellis, visit:
http://mail.google.com/mail/a-d9b565a15d-0b3f5959e6-CMHoynIhYl7lXB-2_JP_4wKAmY0

Gmail offers:
- Instant messaging right inside Gmail
- Powerful spam protection
- Built-in search for finding your messages and a helpful way of organizing
  emails into "conversations"
- No pop-up ads or untargeted banners - just text ads and related information
  that are relevant to the content of your messages

All this, and its yours for free. But wait, there's more! By opening a Gmail
account, you also get access to Google Talk, Google's instant messaging
service:

http://www.google.com/talk/

Google Talk offers:
- Web-based chat that you can use anywhere, without a download
- A contact list that's synchronized with your Gmail account
- Free, high quality PC-to-PC voice calls when you download the Google Talk
  client

We're working hard to add new features and make improvements, so we might also
ask for your comments and suggestions periodically. We appreciate your help in
making our products even better!

Thanks,
The Google Team

To learn more about Gmail and Google Talk, visit:
http://mail.google.com/mail/help/about.html
http://www.google.com/talk/about.html

(If clicking the URLs in this message does not work, copy and paste them into
the address bar of your browser).

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers

[Shane Ellis]

Wow, thank you for the headache so early in the morning!  I got my one tube
circuit working, but going to a much larger uC, and more tubes, more noise
is bound to come up, so now that I know how to decouple with caps, I'll be
sure to add them.  Thank you all.
Such a great group.  I hope you all know how sincerely I appreciate the
help.  I'm in love with glowing glass, and I'm in love with arcane
technology.  Without you guys, I'd still be trying to figure out power
supplies, and binary decoding.

Shane

On Thu, Jul 21, 2011 at 9:14 AM, jb-electronics  wrote:

> **
> Hi Shane,
>
>
> When you say "next to" and IC, do you mean from the +5V, to ground?
>
>
> Yep. There are some IC sockets who have a 100nF capacitor connected from
> the pin on the bottom left to the pin on the top right, i.e. the most common
> IC power pins.
>
>
>  Resistors I got, Capacitors frustrate me...
>
>
> It is not that hard to understand: Capacitor act just like resistors for
> AC. The higher the frequency, the more current can flow through a capacitor.
> The complex impedance is Z := 2*Pi*(-i)/f*C, where f is frequency in Hertz,
> C is the capacity in Farad and i is the imaginary basis, e.g. i^2 = -1. This
> just means that the impedance (the resistance, basically) approaches zero if
> the frequency approaches infinity.
>
> In our example: Really fast disturbances can be seen as some very high
> frequency (look at the Fourier transform of the signal). These disturbances
> will be shorted by the small capacitor of 100nF due to their high frequency,
> so that this high frequency does not corrupt your circuit.
>
> Slow signals are not affected. In the other limes, the frequency is zero
> (i.e. DC signals), so the impedance is infinite. We already know that:
> Capacitors do not conduct DC current.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Best regards,
> Jens
>
>
>
>  On Thu, Jul 21, 2011 at 4:16 AM, Nick  wrote:
>
>> Decoupling should be done EVERY time on EVERY chip - analogue or
>> digital - right adjacent to the supply pins.
>>
>> It costs pretty much nothing, and saves a whole bunch of trouble. Just
>> do it.
>>
>> Part of the need to do this is that chips today are much much faster
>> than they used to be, so where frequency response would roll off
>> before oscillation, nowadays even standard opamps can have GBWs in the
>> MHz to 10s of MHz range, and logic goes far far higher.
>>
>> On the analogue side, I'm currently restoring some Quad amps - the
>> amount of pure twaddle on the www about using loony opamps like the
>> OPA627 and much faster (in "audiophoolery" faster = better) class A
>> drivers & output stages - recipe for high-frequency instability - the
>> circuit were designed to use the inherent limits of the original
>> devices.
>>
>> Maybe I'll just spend 1000 bucks on some speaker cables and
>> unidirectional 99.9% OFC internal cabling. Not.
>>
>> Nick
>>
>> On Jul 21, 9:50 am, jb-electronics 
>> wrote:
>>  > Hi,
>> >
>> > > (2) Sprinkle capacitors across power and ground all over your circuit.
>> > > Preferably as close to the power and ground pins of each chip as
>> > > possible. Usually they're 0.1uf (100nf) ceramic capacitors. Some big
>> > > chips require you to use several near them, so read you datasheets.
>> > > Chips are fast. Very fast. They can either generate very brief short
>> > > circuits (in the ballpark of 10nS), and/or be susceptible to these
>> > > very short glitches on the power rails.
>> >
>> > I cannot stress enough how much pain this will spare you. I recently
>> > built a combined volt- and amperemeter with a 2x16 LCD readout on a
>> > rather small pcb, and I did point-to-point-wiring like I always do, and
>> > it did not want to work. Some weird oscillations at the volts ADC. The
>> > first thing I did was inserting a 100nF cap next to every (!) IC, and
>> > bam, problem solved.
>> >
>> > Jens
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "neonixie-l" group.
>> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit this group at
>> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>>
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>
>  --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>

-- 
You received this message be

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers

[Shane Ellis]

Capacitors still kind of confuse me, and the terminology has me scratching
my head.  I understand what they do, but calculating them is still something
I don't understand.  When you say "next to" and IC, do you mean from the
+5V, to ground?

Resistors I got, Capacitors frustrate me...

Shane

On Thu, Jul 21, 2011 at 4:16 AM, Nick  wrote:

> Decoupling should be done EVERY time on EVERY chip - analogue or
> digital - right adjacent to the supply pins.
>
> It costs pretty much nothing, and saves a whole bunch of trouble. Just
> do it.
>
> Part of the need to do this is that chips today are much much faster
> than they used to be, so where frequency response would roll off
> before oscillation, nowadays even standard opamps can have GBWs in the
> MHz to 10s of MHz range, and logic goes far far higher.
>
> On the analogue side, I'm currently restoring some Quad amps - the
> amount of pure twaddle on the www about using loony opamps like the
> OPA627 and much faster (in "audiophoolery" faster = better) class A
> drivers & output stages - recipe for high-frequency instability - the
> circuit were designed to use the inherent limits of the original
> devices.
>
> Maybe I'll just spend 1000 bucks on some speaker cables and
> unidirectional 99.9% OFC internal cabling. Not.
>
> Nick
>
> On Jul 21, 9:50 am, jb-electronics 
> wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > > (2) Sprinkle capacitors across power and ground all over your circuit.
> > > Preferably as close to the power and ground pins of each chip as
> > > possible. Usually they're 0.1uf (100nf) ceramic capacitors. Some big
> > > chips require you to use several near them, so read you datasheets.
> > > Chips are fast. Very fast. They can either generate very brief short
> > > circuits (in the ballpark of 10nS), and/or be susceptible to these
> > > very short glitches on the power rails.
> >
> > I cannot stress enough how much pain this will spare you. I recently
> > built a combined volt- and amperemeter with a 2x16 LCD readout on a
> > rather small pcb, and I did point-to-point-wiring like I always do, and
> > it did not want to work. Some weird oscillations at the volts ADC. The
> > first thing I did was inserting a 100nF cap next to every (!) IC, and
> > bam, problem solved.
> >
> > Jens
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers

[Shane Ellis]

the battery was for the schematic, and initial breadboard testing.  Thank
you for the input though!  Wall wart power the tube nicely.  Now, to move to
a bigger uC, and get four tubes running ( and singing)

Shane

On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 12:36 PM, neutron spin wrote:

> I have a minor comment on the circuit designIf you are going to
> use a battery the 7805 will waste power. How can this be avoided?  One
> fix would be to use a Low-dropout regulator...using the walwart of
> course you are not concerned with battery life.
>
> Rergards
>
> Robert
>
>
> On 20 July, 11:47, Shane Ellis  wrote:
> > John, you lead me on the right path.
> > I never bothered to replace the uC on the breadboard ( I assumed it
> worked
> > due to the functioning numbers, and the fact that it took the program)
> > Replaced the uC, and BINGO!  we have a steady functioning tube counting
> from
> > 0-9.
> >
> > Thank you everyone for your help!  I have  a few new ideas to check in
> the
> > future, thanks to your suggestions.
> >
> > WOOHOO!
> >
> > Shane
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 10:07 AM, John Rehwinkel 
> wrote:
> > > On 7/20/2011 9:07 AM, Shane Ellis wrote:
> >
> > >> Unbelievable.  I yanked out the four data wires, (picaxe to 74141),
> double
> > >> checked them, and NOW, I get 4,5,6,7  What is going on!?
> >
> > > Sounds like the low 3 bits are connected correctly, and the high bit is
> not
> > > connected.  TTL chips like the 74141 will pull their inputs high if
> > > unconnected.
> >
> > > - John KG4L
> >
> > > --
> > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups
> > > "neonixie-l" group.
> > > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@
> **
> > > googlegroups.com .
> > > For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/**
> > > group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB<
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB>
> > > .
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers

[Shane Ellis]

John, you lead me on the right path.
I never bothered to replace the uC on the breadboard ( I assumed it worked
due to the functioning numbers, and the fact that it took the program)
Replaced the uC, and BINGO!  we have a steady functioning tube counting from
0-9.

Thank you everyone for your help!  I have  a few new ideas to check in the
future, thanks to your suggestions.

WOOHOO!

Shane

On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 10:07 AM, John Rehwinkel  wrote:

> On 7/20/2011 9:07 AM, Shane Ellis wrote:
>
>> Unbelievable.  I yanked out the four data wires, (picaxe to 74141), double
>> checked them, and NOW, I get 4,5,6,7  What is going on!?
>>
> Sounds like the low 3 bits are connected correctly, and the high bit is not
> connected.  TTL chips like the 74141 will pull their inputs high if
> unconnected.
>
> - John KG4L
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@**
> googlegroups.com .
> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/**
> group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB<http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB>
> .
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers

[Shane Ellis]

This is in fact binary, I'm using the four outputs on my micro as the 4
high/low signals on the 74141.
Something unusual though.  I unplugged the ground to the 74141, and it still
displayed the 4,5,6,7...
For some reason, I'm not getting a proper ground at the 7805 volt regulator.
I'll rewire the grounds, and see what I can figure out.
Thanks all
Shane

On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 8:46 AM,  wrote:

> **
> Well, not knowing the schematic...
> If you were binary at some point and had the 4bit high, that would give you
> the 4,5,6,7 instead of 0,1,2,3
>
> Michail
>
>  In a message dated 7/20/2011 6:42:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> mime...@gmail.com writes:
>
> Unfortunately, i'm still at the breadboard stage, so no soldering yet.  I
> forgot a lot about nixies, and programming, so I'm taking baby steps.
>
> Keep these suggestions coming, eventually we'll figure it out.
>
> Shane
>
> On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 8:40 AM, jb-electronics <
> webmas...@jb-electronics.de> wrote:
>
>> **
>> Maybe some bad soldering? Happened to me several times.
>>
>> Jens
>>
>> Am 20.07.2011 15:07, schrieb Shane Ellis:
>>
>> Unbelievable.  I yanked out the four data wires, (picaxe to 74141), double
>> checked them, and NOW, I get 4,5,6,7  What is going on!?
>> Shane
>>
>> .com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>  --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers

[Shane Ellis]

I was wondering about eddie currents, and crosstalk, but I have everything
as isolated as I can on the breadboard.
hmmm

On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 8:46 AM, jb-electronics  wrote:

> **
> What do you use for connective wires? When they are poorly insulated
> against each other and they touch at some point, you might get some
> crosstalk that disturbs your BCD signal.
>
> Jens
>
>
>  Am 20.07.2011 15:42, schrieb Shane Ellis:
>
> Unfortunately, i'm still at the breadboard stage, so no soldering yet.  I
> forgot a lot about nixies, and programming, so I'm taking baby steps.
>
> Keep these suggestions coming, eventually we'll figure it out.
>
> Shane
>
> On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 8:40 AM, jb-electronics <
> webmas...@jb-electronics.de> wrote:
>
>>  Maybe some bad soldering? Happened to me several times.
>>
>> Jens
>>
>> Am 20.07.2011 15:07, schrieb Shane Ellis:
>>
>> Unbelievable.  I yanked out the four data wires, (picaxe to 74141), double
>> checked them, and NOW, I get 4,5,6,7  What is going on!?
>> Shane
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 4:48 AM, jb-electronics <
>> webmas...@jb-electronics.de> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> I think the problem can be circled fairly easy:
>>>
>>> Create some sample code that is supposed to have the Nixie tubes read out
>>> a static "12:48" for example. Then check the corresponding BCD inputs on
>>> each chip. If the right number appears there (in BCD format, that is) and
>>> the chip displays a wrong number, then most likely the chip is defective.
>>>
>>> If you realise there are already the wrong numbers on the BCD inputs then
>>> you might want to recheck your wiring and coding.
>>>
>>> It sounds really obvious, sorry for that, but this is the first thing I
>>> do when this happens, and it happens more often than one would actually
>>> presume. One of my favourites was when I had a software-internal bit shift
>>> that made all my numbers about twice as low as intended ;-) I thought it was
>>> a circuit issue. So you might want to check out your software as well.
>>>
>>> Jens
>>>
>>> Am 20.07.2011 11:05, schrieb Terry Kennedy:
>>>
>>>  On Jul 20, 1:20 am, Shane Ellis  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> It's an IN-14.
>>>>> I have a running version of this exact same circuit, I built into a
>>>>> Christmas ornament, been running perfectly since I powered it on, on
>>>>> December 23rd.  I looked at my old files, and this is identical, and
>>>>> still
>>>>> this one is acting buggy.  I'll mess with it again tomorrow, and let
>>>>> everyone know what, if anything, I figured out.
>>>>>
>>>> Are using the Soviet K155ID1 decoder / driver? There was a bad batch
>>>> of those which caused all sorts of havoc. It could probably happen in
>>>> the non-Soviet parts, too.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>>> "neonixie-l" group.
>>> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>>> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>> For more options, visit this group at
>>> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>>>
>>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "neonixie-l" group.
>> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit this group at
>> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>>
>>
>>--
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "neonixie-l" group.
>> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit this group at
>> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>
>  --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers

[Shane Ellis]

Unfortunately, i'm still at the breadboard stage, so no soldering yet.  I
forgot a lot about nixies, and programming, so I'm taking baby steps.

Keep these suggestions coming, eventually we'll figure it out.

Shane

On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 8:40 AM, jb-electronics  wrote:

> **
> Maybe some bad soldering? Happened to me several times.
>
> Jens
>
> Am 20.07.2011 15:07, schrieb Shane Ellis:
>
> Unbelievable.  I yanked out the four data wires, (picaxe to 74141), double
> checked them, and NOW, I get 4,5,6,7  What is going on!?
> Shane
>
> On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 4:48 AM, jb-electronics <
> webmas...@jb-electronics.de> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I think the problem can be circled fairly easy:
>>
>> Create some sample code that is supposed to have the Nixie tubes read out
>> a static "12:48" for example. Then check the corresponding BCD inputs on
>> each chip. If the right number appears there (in BCD format, that is) and
>> the chip displays a wrong number, then most likely the chip is defective.
>>
>> If you realise there are already the wrong numbers on the BCD inputs then
>> you might want to recheck your wiring and coding.
>>
>> It sounds really obvious, sorry for that, but this is the first thing I do
>> when this happens, and it happens more often than one would actually
>> presume. One of my favourites was when I had a software-internal bit shift
>> that made all my numbers about twice as low as intended ;-) I thought it was
>> a circuit issue. So you might want to check out your software as well.
>>
>> Jens
>>
>> Am 20.07.2011 11:05, schrieb Terry Kennedy:
>>
>>  On Jul 20, 1:20 am, Shane Ellis  wrote:
>>>
>>>> It's an IN-14.
>>>> I have a running version of this exact same circuit, I built into a
>>>> Christmas ornament, been running perfectly since I powered it on, on
>>>> December 23rd.  I looked at my old files, and this is identical, and
>>>> still
>>>> this one is acting buggy.  I'll mess with it again tomorrow, and let
>>>> everyone know what, if anything, I figured out.
>>>>
>>> Are using the Soviet K155ID1 decoder / driver? There was a bad batch
>>> of those which caused all sorts of havoc. It could probably happen in
>>> the non-Soviet parts, too.
>>>
>>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "neonixie-l" group.
>> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit this group at
>> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>>
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>
>  --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers

[Shane Ellis]

Unbelievable.  I yanked out the four data wires, (picaxe to 74141), double
checked them, and NOW, I get 4,5,6,7  What is going on!?
Shane

On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 4:48 AM, jb-electronics  wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I think the problem can be circled fairly easy:
>
> Create some sample code that is supposed to have the Nixie tubes read out a
> static "12:48" for example. Then check the corresponding BCD inputs on each
> chip. If the right number appears there (in BCD format, that is) and the
> chip displays a wrong number, then most likely the chip is defective.
>
> If you realise there are already the wrong numbers on the BCD inputs then
> you might want to recheck your wiring and coding.
>
> It sounds really obvious, sorry for that, but this is the first thing I do
> when this happens, and it happens more often than one would actually
> presume. One of my favourites was when I had a software-internal bit shift
> that made all my numbers about twice as low as intended ;-) I thought it was
> a circuit issue. So you might want to check out your software as well.
>
> Jens
>
> Am 20.07.2011 11:05, schrieb Terry Kennedy:
>
>  On Jul 20, 1:20 am, Shane Ellis  wrote:
>>
>>> It's an IN-14.
>>> I have a running version of this exact same circuit, I built into a
>>> Christmas ornament, been running perfectly since I powered it on, on
>>> December 23rd.  I looked at my old files, and this is identical, and
>>> still
>>> this one is acting buggy.  I'll mess with it again tomorrow, and let
>>> everyone know what, if anything, I figured out.
>>>
>> Are using the Soviet K155ID1 decoder / driver? There was a bad batch
>> of those which caused all sorts of havoc. It could probably happen in
>> the non-Soviet parts, too.
>>
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@**
> googlegroups.com .
> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/**
> group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB<http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB>
> .
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers

[Shane Ellis]

Thank you everyone for the suggestions.  I'll remove the current limiting
resistor to the 74141, I'll check the Picaxe, and 74141, and I'll simulate
my code to make sure pins are going high low at the same time.

I'll check in later

Shane

On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 4:48 AM, jb-electronics  wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I think the problem can be circled fairly easy:
>
> Create some sample code that is supposed to have the Nixie tubes read out a
> static "12:48" for example. Then check the corresponding BCD inputs on each
> chip. If the right number appears there (in BCD format, that is) and the
> chip displays a wrong number, then most likely the chip is defective.
>
> If you realise there are already the wrong numbers on the BCD inputs then
> you might want to recheck your wiring and coding.
>
> It sounds really obvious, sorry for that, but this is the first thing I do
> when this happens, and it happens more often than one would actually
> presume. One of my favourites was when I had a software-internal bit shift
> that made all my numbers about twice as low as intended ;-) I thought it was
> a circuit issue. So you might want to check out your software as well.
>
> Jens
>
> Am 20.07.2011 11:05, schrieb Terry Kennedy:
>
>  On Jul 20, 1:20 am, Shane Ellis  wrote:
>>
>>> It's an IN-14.
>>> I have a running version of this exact same circuit, I built into a
>>> Christmas ornament, been running perfectly since I powered it on, on
>>> December 23rd.  I looked at my old files, and this is identical, and
>>> still
>>> this one is acting buggy.  I'll mess with it again tomorrow, and let
>>> everyone know what, if anything, I figured out.
>>>
>> Are using the Soviet K155ID1 decoder / driver? There was a bad batch
>> of those which caused all sorts of havoc. It could probably happen in
>> the non-Soviet parts, too.
>>
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@**
> googlegroups.com .
> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/**
> group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB<http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB>
> .
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] wrong numbers

[Shane Ellis]

It's an IN-14.
I have a running version of this exact same circuit, I built into a
Christmas ornament, been running perfectly since I powered it on, on
December 23rd.  I looked at my old files, and this is identical, and still
this one is acting buggy.  I'll mess with it again tomorrow, and let
everyone know what, if anything, I figured out.

Shane

On Tue, Jul 19, 2011 at 11:06 PM, J Forbes wrote:

> Is it a biquinary tube?  :)
>
> Shane Ellis wrote:
> >  the only digits that light up, are 2, 3, 6, and
> > 7, but those should be 0, 1, 2, and 3.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] wrong numbers

[Shane Ellis]

The other problem is, some of them don't display at all.  I know I have the
Anode correctly connected ( I can see the ceramic insulator at the base of
the pin, inside the bottle)  the only digits that light up, are 2, 3, 6, and
7, but those should be 0, 1, 2, and 3.  Pins are all connected properly to
the 74141, I checked and quadruple checked.  I put a different code in
there, just to check, and same result.  I suspect I have a bad ground, or
poor grounding scheme somewhere.  Perhaps, something is getting too much
current?  I have a 330 ohm on the +5v of the 74141, and the tube itself, has
a 10K on the anode.  No other resistors or caps are in this circuit.  Maybe
I got lucky last time when this worked, but this time, it's not happening.

Shane

On Tue, Jul 19, 2011 at 9:12 PM, David Forbes  wrote:

> On 7/19/11 6:46 PM, Mimewar wrote:
>
>> OK, so I have a tube breadboarded properly, copied the circuit I built
>> last time, but the wrong numbers are being displayed.  My code is good
>> ( same as on another working project)  the circuit is identical, but
>> instead of a 1, I get a 3, instead of a 2, I get a 6.  Any ideas?
>> Common causes?
>> Frustrated in Aurora
>>
>> Shane
>>
>>
> What are all the numbers displayed as? Then we can figure out which wires
> are swapped.
>
>
> --
> David Forbes, Tucson AZ
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@**
> googlegroups.com .
> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/**
> group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB
> .
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: oscilloscope blues

[Shane Ellis]

I found a few older versions, and I cannot thank you enough!  I may not have
the fanciest scope money can buy, but for my purposes, it'll do
juust fine.

Again, this group comes to the rescue.

Shane

On Sun, Jul 17, 2011 at 5:29 PM, Nick  wrote:

> You'll be wanting a copy of Tektronix's "XYZs of Oscilloscopes" - This
> has been in free production for many many years and is continually
> updated, to the extent that there is almost no analogue stuff in
> recent editions.
>
> The latest version is at
> http://www.tek.com/Measurement/programs/301913X312631/index1.html
> (free signup required)
>
> You will have to scout the web for a version that is from about 2000
> or before to get the analogue side - I have a PDF from 2002 which has
> some analogue content.
>
> Whatever version you end up with, its an excellent document on
> 'scopes, how to use them, what they are good for, and what they are
> rubbish at.
>
> Nick
>
>
> On Jul 17, 6:37 pm, Mimewar  wrote:
> > Does anyone here, know of a good  " I have an oscilloscope, but don't
> > have a clue how to use it" guide?  I have had it for over a year, and
> > now that I'm getting into more programming, analog/digital, and logic
> > circuits, I need to figure it out.  Any help?
> >
> > Shane
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] oscilloscope blues

[Shane Ellis]

It's a Tenma 72-320.  I assume it's analog, by the age, and weight.  It's
got a handle on top, and weighs about ten pounds.

Thanks for the info, I'll check that out.

Shane

On Sun, Jul 17, 2011 at 12:58 PM, jb-electronics <
webmas...@jb-electronics.de> wrote:

> Hello Shane,
>
> that depends a little on the scope I would say. Is it digital, is it
> analog, does it have a built-in logic analyzer, does it weigh 5 tons or
> 100g? ;-)
>
> For the basic ideas, this is one of the first links that Google lists:
>
> http://www.doctronics.co.uk/**scope.htm
>
> Regards,
> Jens
>
>
>
>  Does anyone here, know of a good  " I have an oscilloscope, but don't
>> have a clue how to use it" guide?  I have had it for over a year, and
>> now that I'm getting into more programming, analog/digital, and logic
>> circuits, I need to figure it out.  Any help?
>>
>> Shane
>>
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@**
> googlegroups.com .
> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/**
> group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB
> .
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Free PicKit 2 Not really Nixie, but I want to offer this to a Nixie fan...

[Shane Ellis]

the PicKit 2 has been spoken for as well.  Thank you sir!

On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 10:47 AM, Mimewar  wrote:

> I program in Basic, and use the Picaxe platform ( not the best of the
> best, but it works for my programming level)
> Anyway, I bought a PicKit 2 from Micrichip a year or so ago thinking I
> would learn C.  That never happened, and probably won't for some
> time.  If anyone would like a Pickit 2, some microcontrollers, and
> other odds and ends I can't use with Picaxe, pay 5$ for shipping, and
> it's yours FREE, no scam, no strings attached, no shady deal.  I want
> someone who needs it to be able to use it.
>
> Thanks
> Shane
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Dekatrons

[Shane Ellis]

I'll take it under advisement.  If I start on those, that's one more thing I
have to explain to my wife.  Too many projects...

On Fri, Jul 15, 2011 at 2:41 PM, Adam Jacobs  wrote:

> Hold onto those. :) VFD's are different than nixies, true, but they're not
> that hard to drive.
> Plus, those are 16-segment so you can work on your 16-segment practice
> clock before building your B7971 version. :D
>
> -Adam
>
>
> On 7/15/2011 12:34 PM, Shane Ellis wrote:
>
>> I think I'll stick to the nixies, and neon bulbs for now.  I bought some
>> IV-17s without any forethought, and those are a whole other animal.  If
>> anyone wants them, they can have them cheap.
>>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@**
> googlegroups.com .
> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/**
> group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB<http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB>
> .
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Dekatrons

[Shane Ellis]

I think I'll stick to the nixies, and neon bulbs for now.  I bought some
IV-17s without any forethought, and those are a whole other animal.  If
anyone wants them, they can have them cheap.

Thanks for all the help!

Shane

On Fri, Jul 15, 2011 at 2:29 PM, threeneurons wrote:

> | Are the voltage requirements similar to a nixie tube?
> | I understand how they work, and i want to play around with
> | some, but I don't want to start messing with something
> | that is that much different.
> |
> | Thanks
> | Shane
>
> Dekatrons need a lot higher voltage, but a lot less current. There are
> two common gas types used, which effects voltage. (1) High speed gas
> mix. The Russian high speeds (OG3), glow a faint purple, and need at
> least 420V to work. My opinion is to avoid the high speed dekatrons,
> since they tend not to live long. They also need a higher current
> 0.6mA to 2mA. (2) Standard speed dekatrons, which glow a bright neon
> orange. The common Russian types are the OG4 & A101. They only need a
> 380V supply, and use only about 0.3mA to 0.6mA.
>
> Dekatrons are cool, because they are a whole (divide-by-10) counting
> function, in a single tube, plus it also displays the results, by the
> glow position. This is done solely by the geometry of the internal
> metal bits, with a little ionize gas. Its elegantly simple and
> beautiful. None of brute force methods of modern ICs, by just stuffing
> a gazillion transistors on a slab of silicon.
>
> Again look in my Skydrive:
>
> https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=F9DB37B8211CE831
>
> Go to the 'Electronics Projects' Folder, and look in the 'Dekatron
> Projects' sub folder. Have fun.
>
> Here are videos of dekatrons in operation:
>
> http://www.dailymotion.com/user/threeneurons/1
>
> Some even driven by those insidious microcontrollers !
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] OB3 voltage regulators

[Shane Ellis]

Drat, and double drat.  I was really hoping I had some defective tubes
here.  they look pretty and purple in the dark, but not so much with the
lights on.
Oh well, I'll stick to neon, and nixies I guess!
Thanks!
Shane.


On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 1:03 AM, David Forbes  wrote:

> On 7/13/11 10:47 PM, Mimewar wrote:
>
>> Does anyone here have any experience with the OB3 voltage regulator
>> tubes?  I have a set of four, and one works, but it's not nearly as
>> bright as I have seen in pictures.  I am feeding it 175V, at about
>> 60mA current.  Any ideas?
>>
>> Shane
>>
>>
> Cameras lie. Photos of glowing things are often much more glowy than the
> same objects appear to the eyeball.
>
> --
> David Forbes, Tucson AZ
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@**
> googlegroups.com .
> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/**
> group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB
> .
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] OK...this guy is officially insane!

[Shane Ellis]

I offered him a dollar for it.  Childish I know, but his price is ludicrous.

On Fri, Dec 10, 2010 at 10:55 AM, Shane Ellis  wrote:

> Hey, Give him a break, he does offer free shipping! :)
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 10, 2010 at 10:54 AM, Shane Ellis  wrote:
>
>> Wow.
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Dec 10, 2010 at 10:53 AM, MichaelB wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-NIXIE-TUBE-Z568M-1-pieces-Ukraine-/310278785200?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483e0e88b0#ht_11716wt_907
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>>> "neonixie-l" group.
>>> To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>>> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
>>> .
>>> For more options, visit this group at
>>> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>>>
>>>
>>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] OK...this guy is officially insane!

[Shane Ellis]

Hey, Give him a break, he does offer free shipping! :)

On Fri, Dec 10, 2010 at 10:54 AM, Shane Ellis  wrote:

> Wow.
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 10, 2010 at 10:53 AM, MichaelB wrote:
>
>>
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-NIXIE-TUBE-Z568M-1-pieces-Ukraine-/310278785200?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483e0e88b0#ht_11716wt_907
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "neonixie-l" group.
>> To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
>> .
>> For more options, visit this group at
>> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>>
>>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] OK...this guy is officially insane!

[Shane Ellis]

Wow.

On Fri, Dec 10, 2010 at 10:53 AM, MichaelB  wrote:

>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-NIXIE-TUBE-Z568M-1-pieces-Ukraine-/310278785200?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483e0e88b0#ht_11716wt_907
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie tube Ornament- - - COMPLETED!

[Shane Ellis]

You mean I don't have to pay a buck a sheet for press n peel blue!?
Thank you kind sir, I will go to staples today and try out your
method.

Exciting doesn't cover it my friend.  I nearly cried.  This single
tube is sort of the culmination of things I'm not supposed to be able
to do, and yet here I am, programming, and building electronics
circuits.

Thanks again everyone

Shane

On Dec 7, 4:17 pm, Quixotic Nixotic  wrote:
> On 7 Dec 2010, at 21:28, Shane Ellis wrote:
>
> > Here are all the photos for the project, and a couple videos as well.
>
> > Thanks guys!
>
> >http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm286/mimewar/Nixie%20ornament/
>
> Shane, well done. It's exciting when something lights up and flashes.
>
> What they don't tell you in the book is that you do NOT need that  
> expensive blue Press 'n' peel stuff to make your PCBs. You can laser  
> toner just as well onto glossy magazine paper - even if it has colour  
> printing on it. I use matt Epson inkjet paper, because I have it here  
> and I know it works well for me. Some say that the cheapest glossy  
> inkjet paper from Staples works well too, but it has to be cheap, if  
> it expensive and has a polyethylene coating or similar it just makes  
> a mess.
>
> John S

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie tube Ornament- - - COMPLETED!

[Shane Ellis]

Here are all the photos for the project, and a couple videos as well.

Thanks guys!


http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm286/mimewar/Nixie%20ornament/




On Dec 7, 2:41 pm, Shane Ellis  wrote:
> My first nixie project is completed!  Thanks to a lot of you who
> helped me, and gave advice along the way.  I felt so proud and amazed
> that My first circuit, and then layout, and then circuit board works!
>
> I used a Picaxe 08M for the controller, and the usual 74141(Russian)
> to drive a IN-14 Nixie.  It displays the date of 12-25-2010, with a
> little flair.
>
> I have photos and 2 videos to post, that are on photobucket, and I'll
> be posting the better pics in the files section later.
>
> Thank you all for the help, again.
> Shane

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Nixie tube Ornament- - - COMPLETED!

[Shane Ellis]

My first nixie project is completed!  Thanks to a lot of you who
helped me, and gave advice along the way.  I felt so proud and amazed
that My first circuit, and then layout, and then circuit board works!

I used a Picaxe 08M for the controller, and the usual 74141(Russian)
to drive a IN-14 Nixie.  It displays the date of 12-25-2010, with a
little flair.

I have photos and 2 videos to post, that are on photobucket, and I'll
be posting the better pics in the files section later.

Thank you all for the help, again.
Shane

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Picaxe or BASIC users needed for coding help

[Shane Ellis]

all the hardware is ready for my first clock.  Really basic 6 tube,
no alarm yet, no GPS, no bells and whistles.  If I turn it on, it will
count just fine, from 12:00:01, to 12:00:01etc.  I want to be able to
set this clock to a desired time, and let it go after I set it.  The
coding has me baffled though.  I am using the gosub command to name
the binary number groups ":one, two, three and so on"  and I was
thinking of using an "if then" command to get the clock to cycle
through numbers in the desired order, so it can be set.
Any help appreciated.
Shane

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: power supplies, and your preferences

[Shane Ellis]

I am dreadful at layouts. Can you send a pic, or give me an idea how
you laid yours out on a board?
I keep trying to route this myself, and it is not going well.

Thanks
Shane

On Oct 27, 10:18 am, Per Jensen  wrote:
> On 27/10/2010, at 15.15, Shane Ellis wrote:
>
> > I agree with you.  Aesthetically speaking, I like to build my own parts.  
> > For the prototyping purposes, I don't mind using others.  I have the 
> > tayloredge HVPS, and love it.  I'm a month or so away from my frist clock, 
> > and want to build my own HVPS.  Where can I get some information on  Mike's 
> > "MC34063 mk1.5"  Sounds like a digikey order is in my future.
> > Thanks
> > Shane
>
> Hi Shane.
>
> Look here.
>
> http://irqxcq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pKSgv5IGT4Jy1FgmYmEMohZtv4y4qJj...
>
> Works wonderfully for me, very good efficiency and low heat.
>
> // Per.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Large tubes - advice needed for not getting swindled on ebay

[Shane Ellis]

If this is your first, and you're looking to get your feet wet, why not try
an easier, cheaper tube, like the IN-14.  direct solder, or wire pins, no
socket, side display, and much MUCH cheaper than IN-18s

I'm new to this, but these are what I have been using.

On Wed, Nov 3, 2010 at 9:53 PM, Steve Scorn  wrote:

> Dear group;
>
> As per most starter nixie clock builders; I've been looking at IN-18
> size tubes, approx 40mm high, and my God they are expensive!
>
> I've found a listing for a Philips ZM1040 sold ex Russia on ebay:
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ZM1040-TESLA-nixie-tube-red-1pc-/220690126115?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3362281523#ht_818wt_1139
>
> $50! Does it make sense that a Philips (Dutch?) tube would be sold ex
> Russia?
>
> There is also this style of auction:
>
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/NIXIE-TUBE-Z566M-ZM-1040-SIMILAR-7-UNITS-USED-TESTED-/270658049958?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3f047a17a6#ht_500wt_1156
>
> Very low on detail but not too crazy a price. 7 for $120 = $17 a tube.
> Too good to be true? Old tubes sold as NOS?
>
> All help appreciated.
>
> Steve
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Nixie doctor needed.

[Shane Ellis]

IN-14, very good!  I connected the second tube the same way I connected the
first, and the other tube works fine.  I coded the second tube the same as
the first, and I get all this blobbiness, and blue spots.  I'll check
voltages, and report back.
Shane

On Wed, Oct 27, 2010 at 8:17 AM, jb-electronics  wrote:

> Hello Shane,
>
> hmm, maybe the driver does not work well enough? If the digits that are
> supposed to be "off" have a potential that is near ground, they might light
> up. Check the voltage on the faulty digits accross ground.
>
> My first guess was - without seeing the pictures - that you had tried to
> drive a biquinary Nixie tube as a normal one. Biquinary Nixie tubes have 0
> and 1, 2 and 3, 4 and 5, you know, all even and odd numbers connected in
> parallel with two anodes. This way they have a standard noval socket, but
> require a different kind if handling. But it looks o me as though your tube
> was an IN-14, right?
>
> Jens
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: power supplies, and your preferences

[Shane Ellis]

Adam, I love these for prototyping, but I want something more pleasing to
the eye for the actual clock.
Thanks
Shane

On Tue, Oct 26, 2010 at 11:15 PM, Steve  wrote:

> There's a pretty good run down here:
>
> http://www.tayloredge.com/storefront/SmartNixie/PSU/comparison.html
>
> Steve
>
> On Oct 26, 9:09 pm, Adam Jacobs  wrote:
> > I've been a big fan of Mike's MC34063 mk1.5 design for quite a while.
> It's
> > cheap (less than $5 in parts). It's simple to put together, not finicky
> like
> > the MAX1771's. It's also flexible. I understand that the tayloredge
> drop-in
> > switchers are very popular on this list, but for me, I just hate to see a
> > piece of purchased PCB sitting on something that I designed.. It looks
> out
> > of place, and to me it kind of feels like "I couldn't figure out how to
> do
> > that part, so I bought a solution.".. Of course, that is only my
> preference,
> > others have their own favorites.
> >
> > -Adam
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 1:41 PM, Jon  wrote:
> >
> > > On Oct 25, 8:37 pm, Shane Ellis  wrote:
> > > > what does everyone prefer for powering their clocks?
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: power supplies, and your preferences

[Shane Ellis]

I agree with you.  Aesthetically speaking, I like to build my own parts.
For the prototyping purposes, I don't mind using others.  I have the
tayloredge HVPS, and love it.  I'm a month or so away from my frist clock,
and want to build my own HVPS.  Where can I get some information on  Mike's
"MC34063 mk1.5"  Sounds like a digikey order is in my future.
Thanks
Shane

On Tue, Oct 26, 2010 at 11:09 PM, Adam Jacobs  wrote:

> I've been a big fan of Mike's MC34063 mk1.5 design for quite a while. It's
> cheap (less than $5 in parts). It's simple to put together, not finicky like
> the MAX1771's. It's also flexible. I understand that the tayloredge drop-in
> switchers are very popular on this list, but for me, I just hate to see a
> piece of purchased PCB sitting on something that I designed.. It looks out
> of place, and to me it kind of feels like "I couldn't figure out how to do
> that part, so I bought a solution.".. Of course, that is only my preference,
> others have their own favorites.
>
> -Adam
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 1:41 PM, Jon  wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> On Oct 25, 8:37 pm, Shane Ellis  wrote:
>> > what does everyone prefer for powering their clocks?
>>
>>
>>
>  --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Nixie doctor needed.

[Shane Ellis]

I moved up to a larger PICAXE, all is going well, except, I went to
two tubes, and the new tube is...well... sickly looking.  I double,
and quintuple checked the connections, but as you will see in the
attached photos, something is wrong.  Half the digits light up fine
0-4, but 5-9, well, look terrible.  they half light, and have bright
blue spots at several points on the digit.  Bad tube?  Internal short
in the tube?
Thanks everyone, and sorry if I post too much, my desire for
illuminated tubes is great!
Shane

http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm286/mimewar/Nixie%20and%20programming/

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] power supplies, and your preferences

[Shane Ellis]

what does everyone prefer for powering their clocks?  Has anyone ever
used a camera flash power supply?  Any easy to make HVPS out there?

Shane

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: here we go again, picaxe and 74141 problem.

[Shane Ellis]

the tube is fine, I rebuilt the circuit on my giant proto board, and
hey presto, it works just fine.  I think since I was so cramped, I
missed a ground, or had a bad connection somewhere.
Thanks all, once again though, one small detail gets in my way.

On Oct 24, 4:52 pm, "A.J. Franzman"  wrote:
> This should be obvious, but you didn't mention it: did you check the
> tube itself by hardwiring it? It is not unheard of for nixies to
> develop internal shorts.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: here we go again, picaxe and 74141 problem.

[Shane Ellis]

The only problem with that is, that the pin in question ( Picaxe pin
4) is physical pin 3.  I'm still pursuing this as an answer in the
Picaxe manuals.  Thanks for  a direction to look!
Shane
On Oct 23, 8:21 pm, "Bill van Dijk"  wrote:
> Shane,
>
> I don't know the Picaxe well, but the regular PIC's pin 4 on the port A are
> open collector. They will sink, but not go high unless you use an external
> pull-up resistor to VDD. Check your Picaxe manual for this.
>
> Cheers, BILL
>
>   _  
>
> From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixi...@googlegroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Shane Ellis
> Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 8:25 PM
> To: neonixie-l
> Subject: [neonixie-l] here we go again, picaxe and 74141 problem.
>
> I'm using a Picaxe 08M, and an IN-14 tube,  a standard 74141 driver,
> and a Tayloredge power supply.  I had a similar problem some months
> back, and the fix I used last time, isn't cutting it this go round.
> When pin 4 goes high (output) both the Zero, and Nine light up at the
> same time.  I know my code is good, and all my grounds are good,  the
> legs of the HVPS, the 74141, and the Picaxe are all grounded by way of
> capacitor.  I checked all voltages,  all measure about 4.95V, and the
> current sits at 1.30mA in low state and 0V when in high state.   All
> other numbers, 1-8, work perfectly, but the two digits that require
> pin 4, don't work properly.  Any suggestions?  Something I
> overlooked?  Dumb mistake I made?
>
> Thanks
> Shane
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group 
> athttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>   _  
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG -www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1144 / Virus Database: 422/3214 - Release Date: 10/23/10

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] here we go again, picaxe and 74141 problem.

[Shane Ellis]

I'm using a Picaxe 08M, and an IN-14 tube,  a standard 74141 driver,
and a Tayloredge power supply.  I had a similar problem some months
back, and the fix I used last time, isn't cutting it this go round.
When pin 4 goes high (output) both the Zero, and Nine light up at the
same time.  I know my code is good, and all my grounds are good,  the
legs of the HVPS, the 74141, and the Picaxe are all grounded by way of
capacitor.  I checked all voltages,  all measure about 4.95V, and the
current sits at 1.30mA in low state and 0V when in high state.   All
other numbers, 1-8, work perfectly, but the two digits that require
pin 4, don't work properly.  Any suggestions?  Something I
overlooked?  Dumb mistake I made?

Thanks
Shane

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] ghosting? 5 stays partially lit

[Shane Ellis]

I am getting back to my clock, after a couple months off.  I
reasssembled the circuit as I had it before on breadboard, and now the
"5" digit stays partially lit during the whole cycle of zero to nine.
common causes?
Thanks
Shane

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Logic ICs... I think free to whomsoever wants them.

[Shane Ellis]

If I were smart, I would actually paste the link in the message.

Here goes

http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm286/mimewar/ICs%20for%20sale%20or%20trade/

Success!

On Oct 12, 11:25 pm, Shane Ellis  wrote:
> I have a small IC caddy full of ICs I believe to be logic ICs.  Look a
> the link I have attached, the pics are high resolution, so you can
> make out part numbers.  If you want them, let me know, they are of no
> use to me.  Pay for the shipping, and they will be delivered
> promptly.  I only ask the favor of a few minutes of your time on the
> subject of Nixie tubes.
>
> Shane

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Logic ICs... I think free to whomsoever wants them.

[Shane Ellis]

I have a small IC caddy full of ICs I believe to be logic ICs.  Look a
the link I have attached, the pics are high resolution, so you can
make out part numbers.  If you want them, let me know, they are of no
use to me.  Pay for the shipping, and they will be delivered
promptly.  I only ask the favor of a few minutes of your time on the
subject of Nixie tubes.

Shane

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] IV-17 examples

[Shane Ellis]

Thank you so much.  These vfds, are another animal entirely.  Lots to learn
now.
Shane
On Oct 7, 2010 11:55 PM, "Adam Jacobs"  wrote:
> Hi Shane,
> The IV-17 is a VFD (Vacuum Fluorescent Display). It is not a Nixie. Don't
> put 180v+ through any part of it! :D
> If there is a way to search through the old group archives, you will find
> many a beautiful and florid prose about how to drive VFD's. Here's the
5cent
> version:
> 2 of those pins are for the Filament. You will want to run 2.4v between
> these pins. Ideally AC, but DC is ok on tubes this small (there will be
some
> brightness gradient, but not that noticeable). There is another special
pin,
> the "Grid" pin. VFD's are triodes, so you will need to apply 25-30vdc
> (direct) or 50-70v (multiplexed/pulsed) in order for the tube to turn
"on".
> The rest of the pins will be for segments. You have a 16 segment tube, you
> will find that if you apply the same voltage as for the grid onto a
segment,
> it will light. Tada, you have now lit up your VFD. My favorite IC for
> driving them is the MAX6921, MAXIM-IC will happily send you a tube of them
> as samples. Sadly, there is no DIP package for that IC, but you can get
SOIC
> breakout boards from sparkfun or wherever. Alternately, there are DIP
> sockets for TQFP package.
> Attached is a link to the VFD clock project I designed a while back (with
> bits cribbed from many giants).
> http://www.jacobstribe.org/files/6-digit-VFD.zip
>
> -Adam
>
> On Thu, Oct 7, 2010 at 9:23 PM, Shane Ellis  wrote:
>
>> So I bought a dozen IV-17 tubes from ebay, and was wondering: How the
>> heck do you use there!? There must be 17 pins on these, how does one
>> connect, and operate one of these. Can anyone recommend a good clock,
>> or schematic or resource to use and learn about these tubes. I'd hate
>> to run 180v+ through these if they take 9V+!
>>
>> Thanks
>> Shane
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "neonixie-l" group.
>> To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com

>
>> .
>> For more options, visit this group at
>> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>>
>>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
.
> For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] IV-17 examples

[Shane Ellis]

So I bought a dozen IV-17 tubes from ebay, and was wondering:  How the
heck do you use there!?  There must be 17 pins on these, how does one
connect, and operate one of these.  Can anyone recommend a good clock,
or schematic or resource to use and learn about these tubes.  I'd hate
to run 180v+ through these if they take 9V+!

Thanks
Shane

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: More Homemade Tubes

[Shane Ellis]

I would KILL for that arc welder he is using!  Aside from that, all the
other tools he is using, look like they could be found, or fabricated easily
enough.  Aside from the time it would take, a Nixie could be made at home.
The only thing I see having a problem with, is the Neon, and sealing the
envelope properly.
Thanks for the great video!

On Sat, Oct 2, 2010 at 7:33 PM, DennisNAS  wrote:

> Another great video. I love watching these guys do their stuff. Would
> be fun to visit and have some first hand experience.
> Thanks Mike.
>
> On 2 Oct, 15:51, mjrippe  wrote:
> > http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x3wrzo_fabrication-d-une-lampe-triod...
> >
> > This fellow shows all of the steps for making a triode at "home" (if
> > your house is filled with the right equipment).  Nixie related bit at
> > 14:45.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] schematic drawing program

[Shane Ellis]

Well, ill be checking those out tonight.  Thanks!

On Sep 11, 2010 8:27 PM, "Peter Gammie"  wrote:
> On 12/09/2010, at 11:23 AM, Shane Ellis wrote:
>
>> I use a program called PCB123 to do most of my schematic drawings it
>> works so-so, part creation isn't the easiest. I like eagle CAD, but I
>> don't want to pay for it. Any other suggestions for professional
>> looking schematic drawings?
>
> Have you had a look at the gEDA tools?
>
> I found this tutorial very helpful in getting started:
>
> http://geda.seul.org/wiki/geda:gsch2pcb_tutorial
>
> but have not used them in anger. However many open-source hardware people
seem to use them, e.g.
>
> http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/bulbdialkit
>
> which is a very nice clock, btw.
>
> cheers
> peter
>
> --
> http://peteg.org/
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
.
> For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] schematic drawing program

[Shane Ellis]

I use a program called PCB123 to do most of my schematic drawings it
works so-so, part creation isn't the easiest.  I like eagle CAD, but I
don't want to pay for it.  Any other suggestions for professional
looking schematic drawings?

Thanks
Shane

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] mmm... 208

[Shane Ellis]

A lot of the missing people were members in name only.

On Sep 10, 2010 3:51 PM, "Marco"  wrote:
> Not to sound pessimistic, but as of September 10, 2010, we are only
> 208 souls here, as opposed to 2308 in the old group... and no, I
> don't miss it due to the lack of stable roots because of ownership
> issues there and stuff, and it's comprehensible that we may just as
> well be the most active 208, but just something to think about (and
> keep an eye on) as we consolidate the change.
>
> Cheers to the 208 braves
> Marco
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
.
> For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.