[RBW] What 'fast' tires for Rivendell Atlantis?

[Philip Kim]

Compass naches pass?

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[RBW] Re: Anyone used a large Saddleback for touring?

[Max S]

On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 9:20:52 AM UTC-4, Michael Cinibulk wrote:
> Last year I did an ultralight 3-week tour of the French Alps carrying less 
> than 15 lbs in a large acorn boxy and Carradice Junior. Worked out very well. 
> The only advantage to panniers is that they can be quickly removed and 
> carried with you. I resorted to large nylon bags to remove my stuff each day. 
> No problem with sway even during out of the saddle climbing. I really like 
> this combo for light loads. 
> 
> Mike C
> Bellbrook O

Mike, 

Very curious about your experience. What time of year did you go? How did you 
get your bike there? How did you decide on the route? Did you follow Jobst's 
packing list or have a different set up? Did you book hotels ahead of time or 
wing it? 
Did you bring the bike into the hotel room with you or leave it outside or?.. 

- Max in A2

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[RBW] What 'fast' tires for Rivendell Atlantis?

[Max S]

Was doing a google search for "go fast Atlantis" just an hour ago. Spooky. 
Also, maybe we should go for a ride sometime!

- Max in A2

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[RBW] Re: What 'fast' tires for Rivendell Atlantis?

[Belopsky]

the Rat Trap Pass but not the EL. Roads here are terrible and I didn't 
drink all of Jan's Kool-Aid. ;)

On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 10:26:25 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> If RTP = Rat Trap Pass ELs, I'd say you have the quintessential all round 
> set up with surprisingly little compromise (if any) on the road to gain 
> amazing plush off road tires. Jan has put a lot of experience and testing 
> into his tires and their sizes for wheel sizes.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 7:39:16 PM UTC-6, Belopsky wrote:
>>
>> I may be getting rid of my other geared road bike and may just see how I 
>> do with the Atlantis as my all-arounder in the mean time.
>> I currently have the RTP tires on it that are pretty great for dirt and 
>> gravel. Something else maybe for a 'racier' set? (yes, i just asked for a 
>> racey version of the Atlantis, LOL)
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 68 cm Quickbeam $1275

[Birdman]

I am beyond thrilled to be the next steward of this amazing bicycle. Many 
thanks to Al and this group.

Isaac

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Re: [RBW] FS: Parts Bin Purge

[Eric Norris]

If you need 9S, I have a pair (Veloce? Centaur? Can’t remember) that I don’t 
need.

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
@CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)

> On Jun 24, 2017, at 8:17 PM, B Young  wrote:
> 
> Ergopower shifters are 10s. 
> 
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[RBW] FS: Parts Bin Purge

[B Young]

Ergopower shifters are 10s. 

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[RBW] Re: What 'fast' tires for Rivendell Atlantis?

[Deacon Patrick]

If RTP = Rat Trap Pass ELs, I'd say you have the quintessential all round 
set up with surprisingly little compromise (if any) on the road to gain 
amazing plush off road tires. Jan has put a lot of experience and testing 
into his tires and their sizes for wheel sizes.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 7:39:16 PM UTC-6, Belopsky wrote:
>
> I may be getting rid of my other geared road bike and may just see how I 
> do with the Atlantis as my all-arounder in the mean time.
> I currently have the RTP tires on it that are pretty great for dirt and 
> gravel. Something else maybe for a 'racier' set? (yes, i just asked for a 
> racey version of the Atlantis, LOL)
>

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[RBW] Re: What 'fast' tires for Rivendell Atlantis?

[Dave Johnston]

I took off the RTP's and switched to the compass 26x1.8" (41-42mm actual) 
and much prefer them for pure road use. I don't know if they are any 
faster, they may not be, but I like the road feel better. The RTP make you 
feel sort of disconnected from the road. RTP's are better on the gravel 
though. I actual have two sets of wheels but the other set has big bens 
which are sluggish on paved surfaces but give lots of confidence and 
plushness on gravel surfaces.

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[RBW] What 'fast' tires for Rivendell Atlantis?

[Belopsky]

I may be getting rid of my other geared road bike and may just see how I do 
with the Atlantis as my all-arounder in the mean time.
I currently have the RTP tires on it that are pretty great for dirt and 
gravel. Something else maybe for a 'racier' set? (yes, i just asked for a 
racey version of the Atlantis, LOL)

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[RBW] Re: Anyone used a large Saddleback for touring?

[WETH]

Dave,
That has the makings of a great tour.  Please consider sharing photos and 
impressions after the journey.
Best wishes,
Erl

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[RBW] Riding Ring the Peak

[WETH]

Patrick,
More beautiful photos! Thank you!  Any ride that features two pipe breaks is 
alright! 
All the best,
Erl

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[RBW] Riding Ring the Peak

[Deacon Patrick]

Today’s ride, in which I have a pipe in a meadow, write, climb, hop rocks and 
roots, climb, descend, have another pipe, and head home.
http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/single-track-snoqualmie

With abandon,
Patrick

www.CredoFamily.org
www.MindYourHeadCoop.org


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[RBW] FS: 61cm A. Homer Hilsen f/f/h

[Eric Karnes]

Hi all-

So, I'm selling my 61cm AHH. I purchased it a year back on this very list. 
I love the ride (and it's beautiful), but it's a bit too small in the seat 
tube. If you have a PBH of 87 to 89cm, this is the bike for you. I've 
photographed it with the seat height at 76cm (see below).

Anyways, this Hilsen is a bit different that the standard...it has a 
threadless steerer, 130mm rear spacing, and no kickstand plate. And it's 
painted a beautiful pearlescent orange (the paint is really stunning and 
photos can't do it justice). It's in great condition, with a few paint 
chips in the normal places (chain stay, one on the headtube, etc.), but 
nothing super noticeable. The original owner also mentioned a super tiny 
dent in the top tube, but to be honest, I've actually never been able to 
find it...maybe in the right light it would be visible. I've knocked $100 
off the price to compensate for this though...

Asking $1000 plus shipping through BikeFlights. Included are frame, fork, 
headset, a set of Silver brakes, and a 100mm 1" salsa stem + spacers and 
cap. I'm also happy to throw in a shim for use with a 1 1/8" stems. Here 
are a few photos of the full bike:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/35128198@N02/albums/72157685462604685

And if you're interested, shoot me an email and I can take/send/post 
specific shots...

Eric

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[RBW] Re: When your cycling coach says "Ok, now bend over"

[ascpgh]

You're in my lane now. I work in the pediatric gastroenterology population 
and have done my fair share of fecal transplants. 

Yes, they are veering pretty wide to suggest performance enhancing stool 
transplantation, but they have a pretty good grasp of the basic concepts at 
play. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 9:14:18 AM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>
> Presented to the group without comment:
>
> http://www.bicycling.com/training/is-poop-doping-the-next-big-thing
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Summer Parts Purge Bump + Lowered Prices

[Eric Karnes]

Silver shifters and Nitto 174 drop bar still available. make me an offer...

On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 11:56:01 AM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Price drops for what's remaining...
>
>
> - Original Silver DT Shifters: Only used the rear one a few times. $30
>
> - Nitto Fairweather Mod 174 Drop Bar (Black 40cm): Like a Noodle with only 
> 75mm of reach. $40
>
> - Nitto R-14 Rear Rack: Good condition, found hex bolts to attach it to 
> the Riv braze-ons. $70
>
>
> If you still think a price is too high, feel free to make an offer! I want 
> to clear up room in the shop (i.e. my kitchen).
>
>
> Eric
>
>
> On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 7:02:02 PM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>
>> a few sales pending. here's what's left (plus a new item):
>>
>> - Brooks Cambium C17 Carved Black: Practically new; only ridden a few 
>> times; have two and only need one. $100
>>
>> - Original Silver DT Shifters: Only used the right side one a few times. 
>> $40
>>
>> - Suntour XC 9000 Front Hub: Good condition, spins well. $20
>>
>> - Nitto Fairweather Mod 174 Drop Bar (Black 40cm): Like a Noodle with 
>> only 75mm of reach. $50
>>
>> - Tektro RX4.1 Inverse Brake Levers: Like new. $15
>>
>> - Nitto R-14 Rear Rack: Good condition, can’t find the hex bolts to 
>> attach it to Riv braze-ons, but I’ll include them if they turn up. $90
>>
>> - VO Grand Cru 1” Threaded Headset (Silver): New in box, never 
>> installed. $35
>>
>>
>> Photos: 
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/35128198@N02/albums/72157683105393891. 
>> Contact me off-list if interested. And the two wheelsets are still 
>> available.
>>
>>
>> Eric
>>
>>
>> On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 5:38:01 PM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi all-
>>>
>>>
>>> Consolidating my bikes to fit into my tiny apartment and selling some 
>>> extra parts. All prices include standard USPS shipping...
>>>
>>>
>>> - Brooks Cambium C17 Carved Black: Practically new; only ridden a few 
>>> times; have two and now only need one. $100
>>>
>>> - Original Silver DT Shifters: Only used the right side one a few times. 
>>> $30
>>>
>>> - Deore 9sp Rear Derailleur: Great condition; cogs have been switched 
>>> for use in a 1x system, but can be switched back. $20
>>>
>>> - Suntour XC 9000 Front Hub: Good condition, spins well. $20
>>>
>>> - Ergon Biokork Grips: Great condition. $20
>>>
>>> - Nitto Fairweather Mod 174 Drop Bar (Black 40cm): Like a Noodle with 
>>> only 75mm of reach. $50
>>>
>>> - Albatross Bar (aluminum): Scratched at clamp area from a shim. $40
>>>
>>> - Tektro RX4.1 Inverse Brake Levers: Like new. $15
>>>
>>> - Tektro CR720 Cantilever Brakes w/ Kool Stop pads: Full set; good 
>>> condition; includes hangers and springs and such (though not pictured in 
>>> photo). $25
>>>
>>> - Nitto R-14 Rear Rack: Good condition, can’t find the hex bolts to 
>>> attach it to Riv braze-ons, but I’ll include them if they turn up. $90
>>>
>>>
>>> Photos: 
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/35128198@N02/albums/72157683105393891. 
>>> Contact me off-list if interested.
>>>
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>>
>>> ps.
>>>
>>> I also have two wheelsets…Dura-ace to Mavic Open Pro (silver) and 105 
>>> (5800) to DTSwiss R460 (black). Was planning to sell locally, but if anyone 
>>> from the list is interested, I’d sell them for $200 each plus shipping 
>>> though BikeFlights.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Albastache, Carradice Bagman Expedition Support

[Andrew Huston]

Photos of bagman?

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[RBW] WTB: Medium Shopsack + medium Wald

[Zach Duval]

Preferably the brown Shopsack, if available.

If no takers I'll hop over to order new in the next few days.

Thanks!

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[RBW] FS: Parts Bin Purge

[Joe Bernard]

How many speeds for the Ergopower shifters?

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Re: [RBW] So many Rivs on the chopping block

[Matt B.]

P.S. I've also read on this list about folks who've modded their Rivs with 
higher offset forks from e.g. Tom Matchak with reportedly satisfactory 
results, so if there happens to be any overlap in interest with disc 
brakes...  :)


On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 1:49:16 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I get a trail of 38 mm; rather lower than that of Rivs, no?
>
> Otherwise, it looks very nice. 
>
> On Sat, Jun 24, 2017 at 10:54 AM, Matt B.  > wrote:
>
>> For folks interested in a disc-braked rivendell, take a look at the Crust 
>> Romanceur.  It's lugged steel, has 1" threaded steerer (bonus in my book), 
>> and definitely rivendellian geometry, though perhaps more 90's to 
>> mid-2000's riv than current.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 12:04:28 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>>>
>>> I dont think anyone has said they need disc brakes to stop. Most people 
>>> have bikes with both types of brakes.  Its just something different and 
>>> while not everyone will choose them, they do stop more quickly and easily.  
>>> Is that a requirement?  No.  Will some people choose it? Yes.  Will some 
>>> people decide they dont need or want it? Yes.   
>>>
>>> I have had bikes with disc brakes and as a mechanic have worked on many 
>>> many, of all quality.  I prefer rim brakes because I prefer to deal with 
>>> their drawbacks than the  drawbacks of disc brakes, of which there are a 
>>> few, in my personal opinion.  But its a strange all or nothing argument 
>>> that pops up around this issue.  I dont think that makes any sense
>>
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>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, 
> LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's 
> more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price 
> contract. And still more!  I am offering services in trade for a road bike, 
> or frame and parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 
> to 1961. See my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.*
>
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
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> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] So many Rivs on the chopping block

[Matt B.]

Fair enough. Was thinking more about the longish chainstays, slack STA & 
lowish BB, (e.g. size-up-able geometry) than of fork offset.  

On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 1:49:16 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I get a trail of 38 mm; rather lower than that of Rivs, no?
>
> Otherwise, it looks very nice. 
>
> On Sat, Jun 24, 2017 at 10:54 AM, Matt B.  > wrote:
>
>> For folks interested in a disc-braked rivendell, take a look at the Crust 
>> Romanceur.  It's lugged steel, has 1" threaded steerer (bonus in my book), 
>> and definitely rivendellian geometry, though perhaps more 90's to 
>> mid-2000's riv than current.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 12:04:28 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>>>
>>> I dont think anyone has said they need disc brakes to stop. Most people 
>>> have bikes with both types of brakes.  Its just something different and 
>>> while not everyone will choose them, they do stop more quickly and easily.  
>>> Is that a requirement?  No.  Will some people choose it? Yes.  Will some 
>>> people decide they dont need or want it? Yes.   
>>>
>>> I have had bikes with disc brakes and as a mechanic have worked on many 
>>> many, of all quality.  I prefer rim brakes because I prefer to deal with 
>>> their drawbacks than the  drawbacks of disc brakes, of which there are a 
>>> few, in my personal opinion.  But its a strange all or nothing argument 
>>> that pops up around this issue.  I dont think that makes any sense
>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> .
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>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, 
> LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's 
> more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price 
> contract. And still more!  I am offering services in trade for a road bike, 
> or frame and parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 
> to 1961. See my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.*
>
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
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[RBW] Re: Brake Adjustment: Paul Racers vs. Cantilevers

[John]

This info on the BMC blog was a big help to me:

http://blackmtncycles.com/get-the-most-out-of-your-canti-brake/

John

On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 3:09:37 PM UTC-7, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> hi all-
>
>
> in a few years of working on bikes, the one thing i’ve never gotten the 
> hang of is the proper adjustment of cantilever brakes. even the paul 
> touring cantilevers seem to defeat me. to cap it off, i've had trouble 
> finding shops that can properly adjust them.
>
>
> anyways, i’m having a frame customized and need to make a decision on 
> brakes. for those who have used the paul racers (braze-on), are they easier 
> for amateur mechanics like yours truly?
>
>
> eric
>

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Re: [RBW] Fixed

[Patrick Moore]

Let us know how you like it.

The only real difference I had to adapt to was learning not to try to coast
-- something so natural when you are coming to a corner or to a stop sign.
A few kicks of the pedal will learn ya.

But this is worth keeping in mind; if you should be standing and suddenly
stop pedaling, the pedal may just kick you off the bike. It's never
happened to me, thank God, but I've been alarmed more than once.

Other than that, what you adapt to is largely (1) downhills and (2) what
you have to adapt to anyway for ss freewheel, ie, planning ahead and pacing
yourself.

On Fri, Jun 23, 2017 at 10:56 PM, Jay in Tel Aviv 
wrote:

> Now I've done it - installed a cog on the fixed side of my ENO hub to try
> my Sam fixed.
> The gearing is 40/16 just like the freewheel. That way I can switch back
> and forth without messing with the brakes too much.
> The quick test run I did yesterday was fun.
> I was pleasantly surprised by the control at low speeds and the kick from
> the flywheel effect when accelerating.
> Let's see how the commute goes tomorrow - 35 km R/T.
> I'm planning on leaving extra time and bringing tools to switch back if
> necessary, but I don't expect to.
> Should be interesting whatever happens.
> Here's to learning something new at 50!
>
> Jay
>
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Re: [RBW] Brake Adjustment: Paul Racers vs. Cantilevers

[Nash Taylor]

Blackmtncycles' mike Varley posted a good blog post a few years ago that goes 
over canti setup pretty well.  Its probably hard to get a grasp on it 
completely without being a mechanic who does it day in and day out.  But its 
really just angles and a few little tricks and tips

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Re: [RBW] When your cycling coach says "Ok, now bend over"

[Patrick Moore]

Bike Snob reviewed this yesterday or the day before. "Just ride"!

I don't doubt intestinal bacteria can affect our health, but this is silly
-- as to its end, not as to its matter.

On Sat, Jun 24, 2017 at 7:14 AM, 'Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Presented to the group without comment:
>
> http://www.bicycling.com/training/is-poop-doping-the-next-big-thing
>
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Re: [RBW] So many Rivs on the chopping block

[Patrick Moore]

I get a trail of 38 mm; rather lower than that of Rivs, no?

Otherwise, it looks very nice.

On Sat, Jun 24, 2017 at 10:54 AM, Matt B.  wrote:

> For folks interested in a disc-braked rivendell, take a look at the Crust
> Romanceur.  It's lugged steel, has 1" threaded steerer (bonus in my book),
> and definitely rivendellian geometry, though perhaps more 90's to
> mid-2000's riv than current.
>
>
>
>
> On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 12:04:28 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>>
>> I dont think anyone has said they need disc brakes to stop. Most people
>> have bikes with both types of brakes.  Its just something different and
>> while not everyone will choose them, they do stop more quickly and easily.
>> Is that a requirement?  No.  Will some people choose it? Yes.  Will some
>> people decide they dont need or want it? Yes.
>>
>> I have had bikes with disc brakes and as a mechanic have worked on many
>> many, of all quality.  I prefer rim brakes because I prefer to deal with
>> their drawbacks than the  drawbacks of disc brakes, of which there are a
>> few, in my personal opinion.  But its a strange all or nothing argument
>> that pops up around this issue.  I dont think that makes any sense
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: Parts Bin Purge

[B Young]

Forgot to include these items:

Sugino AT Triple Crankset with Shimano Biopace rings - 170mm 28-38-48T - $45

Sugino XD2 Triple Crankset - 172.5mm 24-36-48T - $60

Shimano Deore LX Triple Crankset - 175mm 24-36-46T - Cost of shipping

Tubus Logo Rear Rack - New - $90

Look Pedals - $20

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[RBW] Re: Best front rack for Hunqapillar?

[John]

Hi Michele,

Out of curiosity, how much weight are you planning on putting on your 
front rack?

I use the Nitto 32F front rack w/ a basket on my Hunqapillar. The 
version Riv sells now is sans front tab that could possibly catch on a 
nobby front tire if the rack failed.

   I know it sounds like Riv is saying the rack is prone to failure when 
recommending the use of a tether strap, but they're being super cautious. 
Some people have been known to way overload their front racks & baskets, go 
tearing down rocky, bumpy trails, and then look for someone else to blame 
when they take a header over their handlebars.

   When I load my 32F front rack & medium Wald basket, I place heavier 
items toward the back and center of the basket and secure my load with an 
Irish strap, so it doesn't move around. Moving, shifting loads will stress 
a rack and change your balance on the bike. If I have to put something 
heavy in there, I add the tether strap, but I don't really like placing a 
heavy load up front because of the extra wheel flop. Normal rando bag loads 
should be fine. 

   If you plan on regular expedition loads, or carrying cases of beer, sets 
of encyclopedias, or loads of firewood, you might prefer using the Nitto 
34F or the 27F w/o the lowrider racks under your basket or front bag.

   Another good choice is the Pass & Stow 3-Rail rack or Porteur rack. Matt 
Feeney is a great guy, and makes a really good rack if you need something 
for serious cargo. I have both and the 3-Rail rack is a good option if you 
want something like the Nitto 32F, but made for heavier loads.

I hope this helps a bit,

John





On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 5:13:22 PM UTC-7, Michele wrote:
>
> What are people using for a small rack to support a rando bag or basket? 
> I'm wondering if the Nitto M-12 rack would work? Is there something more 
> appropriate?
>

On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 5:13:22 PM UTC-7, Michele wrote:
>
> What are people using for a small rack to support a rando bag or basket? 
> I'm wondering if the Nitto M-12 rack would work? Is there something more 
> appropriate?
>

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Re: [RBW] Brake Adjustment: Paul Racers vs. Cantilevers

[Eric Karnes]

Thanks guys! Sounds like the racers may be the way to go.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Bike Weight

[Patrick Moore]

Another person quipped that his Rivendell weighed a jillion bazillion lbs, and 
I just wanted to put the thought to music. 

There are hidden connections everywhere.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 24, 2017, at 9:56 AM, Jay in Tel Aviv  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the song. I'm having trouble figuring out the connection to this 
> thread, but who cares!
> 
>> On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 2:58:02 AM UTC+3, Patrick Moore wrote:
>> https://youtu.be/UaStAAOUao8?t=58
>> 
>>> On Fri, Jun 23, 2017 at 2:25 PM, Davey Two Shoes  wrote:
>>> my clem is somewhere between 34 and 36 gabajillion pounds of sin
>>> 
 On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 8:29:11 PM UTC-4, Steven Sweedler wrote:
>>> 
 2000 All Rounder 63 cm.  32.2 lbs 
 
>>> 
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>> 
>> 
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>> parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 to 1961. See my 
>> website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.
>> 
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>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
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[RBW] FS: Parts Bin Purge

[William!]

I’ll take the Edelux

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Re: [RBW] So many Rivs on the chopping block

[Matt B.]

For folks interested in a disc-braked rivendell, take a look at the Crust 
Romanceur.  It's lugged steel, has 1" threaded steerer (bonus in my book), 
and definitely rivendellian geometry, though perhaps more 90's to 
mid-2000's riv than current.



On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 12:04:28 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>
> I dont think anyone has said they need disc brakes to stop. Most people 
> have bikes with both types of brakes.  Its just something different and 
> while not everyone will choose them, they do stop more quickly and easily. 
>  Is that a requirement?  No.  Will some people choose it? Yes.  Will some 
> people decide they dont need or want it? Yes.   
>
> I have had bikes with disc brakes and as a mechanic have worked on many 
> many, of all quality.  I prefer rim brakes because I prefer to deal with 
> their drawbacks than the  drawbacks of disc brakes, of which there are a 
> few, in my personal opinion.  But its a strange all or nothing argument 
> that pops up around this issue.  I dont think that makes any sense

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone used a large Saddleback for touring?

[Jeff Lesperance]

I'll echo Deacon Patrick's comments about just loading up and testing it,
and it sounds like you're taking that advice. There's probably nothing more
important than test riding your tour load, regardless of the way you're
going to carry it. I'll further comment to say that when I was preparing
for a fully loaded tour a few years ago, that was set to feature some
potentially gnarly off-road segments, in the weeks leading up to the tour I
tested all sorts of configurations on a few different bikes. I experimented
with panniers, saddlebags, handlebar bags and a few bikepacking-style bags.
I found, that at first, all loads felt a little bit awkward and unwieldy
regardless of how the gear was distributed and attached, but after rolling
for anywhere from a few miles to a few dozen miles, I was able to get in
tune with the ride characteristics. There was no one bike and packing
configuration that would absolutely not work, so long as I was willing to
keep an open mind, be willing to adapt a bit, and put in a bit of practice.

Unless I'm going full bikepacking outfit, my preference for packing, in
order of the amount of stuff I need to carry, would look something like
this:

* Saddlebag, small handlebar bag
* Saddlebag, small handlebar bag, front panniers
* Rear panniers, small handlebar bag
* Rear panniers, small handlebar bag, front panniers
* Rear panniers, small handlebar bag, front panniers, rear rack-top bag

The handlebar bag in this mix is something small, just because I don't own
a boxy rack-top rando-style front bag, as none of my bikes, or maybe me,
love this as a solo bag choice when I need to carry just a bit of stuff,
they all, or I, prefer a small saddlebag.

Adding bikepacking bags to the mix would change up the options and order of
packing, but I don't have a full array of those bags yet to be able to sort
out the options that would work best.

-Jeff
Silver Spring, MD

On Sat, Jun 24, 2017 at 10:44 AM, Marc Irwin  wrote:

> I switched from a Frost River Gunflint Trail bag to a Large Saddlesack and
> am really happy.  I  have fought the urge to carry more and find it much
> better to have the extra room and waterproofing. Here's a little closer
> 
>  look.
>
> Marc
>
>  look.On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 8:45:25 PM UTC-4, Dave Small wrote:
>>
>> A while back I bought a large Saddlesack thinking it'd be good for
>> shorter tours.  I'm taking a 7-day credit card tour soon and I'm having
>> second thoughts about using it.  It's bigger than I thought it'd be, large
>> enough that it's unwieldy sitting on top of the rack.  I'm considering
>> using a couple of Carradice Kendall panniers instead, which (combined) have
>> the same volume as the Saddlesack but sit lower, which may make the
>> handling a little better.  I'll be taking a Sam Hillborne with a Nitto Big
>> Rear rack, and won't have more than 20 lbs in the rear bag(s); in fact, it
>> may be only 10-15 lbs.  I'll have an Acorn Boxy Rando bag on a Mark's Rack
>> on the front regardless of what I do in the rear.
>>
>> Does anyone have experience with the large Saddlesack for such use?  I
>> can think of pros and cons for each option, but would like opinions from
>> those who really know.  Thanks.
>>
>> Dave
>>
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[RBW] Re: FS: Parts Bin Purge

[B Young]

*Velocity Synergy / Deore wheel set is 650b.


>

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[RBW] Re: Best front rack for Hunqapillar?

[Bill Lindsay]

Michele asked for thoughts about Rivendell's guidance to use a tether with 
a Nitto 32F front rack, calling it a junky addition.

Rivendell is being very cautious with your safety, it's true.  Every rack 
in the world that attaches in three points like the 32F has a bolt on 
attachment the fork crown.  It is very unlikely that attachment point will 
fail, on the 32F or any other similar 3-point attachment rack.  Very very 
unlikely.  But, if that attachment point does fail, it is extremely likely 
that the rider's head will hit the ground very very hard.  So, the 
likelihood is tiny, but the severity is extreme.  Rivendell would prefer to 
lose a few sales by recommending caution.  Every 3-point rack in the world 
has the same risk, but only Rivendell is cautious enough to warn you about 
it.  It's not that they think the rack will fail, but they don't think your 
head should get slammed if you accidentally overload your rack and forget 
to inspect your equipment from time to time. They trust the rack, but it's 
harder to trust all possible human users of the rack.

Rivendell and some other vendors won't sell or recommend metal fenders for 
similar reasons.  Metal fenders are very reliable, when used correctly. 
 Various human mistakes, along with bad luck, can conspire to lead to a 
metal front fender putting your head on the ground as well.  

The 32F rack is much more appropriate for your Hunqapillar than an M12. 
 I'm using four point racks more and more often now.  A four point front 
rack has no single point of failure.  If one thing fails, it flops around 
and makes noise, giving you the opportunity to stop and fix it.  My 
favorite is the Nitto 27F.  Another excellent four point rack is the 
immense Nitto 34F, the Big Front Rack.  I run that on my tandem.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA


On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 9:03:17 AM UTC-7, Michele wrote:
>
> Thanks all for the input. I've never had a front rack before, and it's a 
> bit confusing. I notice that in the 32F page, Riv says, "ALWAYS use this 
> rack with a tether." Seems like the rack should be well-made enough not to 
> require that junky addition. What are the thoughts of those with experience?
>
> Thanks,
> Michele
>
> On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 5:13:22 PM UTC-7, Michele wrote:
>>
>> What are people using for a small rack to support a rando bag or basket? 
>> I'm wondering if the Nitto M-12 rack would work? Is there something more 
>> appropriate?
>>
>

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[RBW] FS: Parts Bin Purge

[B Young]

Hi All,

I'm selling some stuff to make some room for more stuff, ha! 

All prices include standard shipping to the lower 48. Feel free to make 
offers if my asking price looks too high and please contact me off list if 
interested. 

Thanks,
Brian


Pics:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0f5oqs3qoC3C3


*Racks*

Nitto Campee Big Racks - Front and Rear 33R and 34F - Beautiful like-new 
condition - $360 for both (I'd prefer to sell these as a set but will 
consider separating if I don't find any takers for the pair so please send 
me a note if interested in one or the other.)

Nitto M18 - New - $85

Nitto R10 rear rack - Beautiful condition - $80

*Wheels*

Wheelset - 36H / 135 spacing Velocity Synergy rims with Shimano Deore hubs 
- Low, low milage - $180

*Tires*

Fatty Rumpkin 650b x 41.5 ...or so - $35 pair

Schwalbe Marathon 650b x 40 - $35 pair

Soma New Express 650b x 38 = $40 pair

Vittoria Zaffiro 700c x 25 - $30 pair

*Helmets*

NOS Bern Macon - $30

NOS Uvex FP3 - $40

*Seat Posts*

Paul Components Tall and Handsome Seat Post - Black 27.2 - New - $100

Generic Set Post - 27.2 x 300 - $10

JPR Seat Post - 26mm - $20

NOS in box Campagnolo Superleggero Seat Post - 25.8 - $90

*Brakes / Levers*

Campagnolo Veloce Power-Shift Ergo Control Levers Shifters - New - $80

TRP RRL drillium brake levers - Black Hoods - Like New - $70

Origin 8 Pro Force Aero Levers - New - $20

Generic Brake Levers - New - $15

Tetra R559 Brake Set - New - $45

*and some More*

Shimano Deore XT Front Derailleur Top Pull - FD-M781 - $25

Stem - Kalloy - 60mm - $20

MKS pedals - $20

Edelux 1 Light - $70



Thank you!











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[RBW] Re: WTB - On-One Mary Bars

[Lucas Winzenburg]

I have a pair of them sitting somewhere. Black, gently used.

Email me at lu...@bunyanvelo.com if you'd like some photos!

On Monday, June 19, 2017 at 10:13:28 AM UTC-5, Chris Birkenmaier wrote:
>
> Looking to see if anyone has these bars in very good condition they would 
> be willing to part with.  Please DM with condition and price to include 
> mailing to 19382 (SE PA).
>

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Re: [RBW] So many Rivs on the chopping block

[Nash Taylor]

I dont think anyone has said they need disc brakes to stop. Most people have 
bikes with both types of brakes.  Its just something different and while not 
everyone will choose them, they do stop more quickly and easily.  Is that a 
requirement?  No.  Will some people choose it? Yes.  Will some people decide 
they dont need or want it? Yes.  

I have had bikes with disc brakes and as a mechanic have worked on many many, 
of all quality.  I prefer rim brakes because I prefer to deal with their 
drawbacks than the  drawbacks of disc brakes, of which there are a few, in my 
personal opinion.  But its a strange all or nothing argument that pops up 
around this issue.  I dont think that makes any sense

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[RBW] Breaking in a leather Brooks

[RandoNate]

I've found that different Brooks saddles require different treatment to break 
in.  

My first Brooks was a B-17 flyer.  This was basically comfortable right out of 
the box.  I initially and occasionally applied proofide and it was very 
comfortable by ~200 miles.

My second Brooks is a B17 select that I got from fellow lister Will Ashe.  You 
can check his previous posts about not being able to break it in despite a year 
of riding and 1000 or more miles.  I can say that Will was not exaggerating.  
This thing felt (and sounded) like a hard piece of wood.  I tried proofide plus 
100 miles and found no improvement.  I decided to go nuclear and used the 
Sheldon Brown neatsfoot oil method.  The saddle was immediately more 
comfortable, but not saggy.  With 50 miles it was close to perfection.  I've 
got maybe 700 miles on it since with no sagging.  The color was completely 
changed, but this was definitely worth it.

Nate

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[RBW] Re: When your cycling coach says "Ok, now bend over"

[Chris Corral]

Very interesting, this is something I have wondered about. Thank you for 
sharing.

On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 6:14:18 AM UTC-7, Tim wrote:
>
> Presented to the group without comment:
>
> http://www.bicycling.com/training/is-poop-doping-the-next-big-thing
>

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[RBW] Re: Best front rack for Hunqapillar?

[Michele]

Thanks all for the input. I've never had a front rack before, and it's a 
bit confusing. I notice that in the 32F page, Riv says, "ALWAYS use this 
rack with a tether." Seems like the rack should be well-made enough not to 
require that junky addition. What are the thoughts of those with experience?

Thanks,
Michele

On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 5:13:22 PM UTC-7, Michele wrote:
>
> What are people using for a small rack to support a rando bag or basket? 
> I'm wondering if the Nitto M-12 rack would work? Is there something more 
> appropriate?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Bike Weight

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

Thanks for the song. I'm having trouble figuring out the connection to this 
thread, but who cares!

On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 2:58:02 AM UTC+3, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> https://youtu.be/UaStAAOUao8?t=58
>
> On Fri, Jun 23, 2017 at 2:25 PM, Davey Two Shoes  > wrote:
>
>> my clem is somewhere between 34 and 36 gabajillion pounds of sin
>>
>> On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 8:29:11 PM UTC-4, Steven Sweedler wrote:
>>
>>> 2000 All Rounder 63 cm.  32.2 lbs 
>>>
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>> .
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>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, 
> LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's 
> more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price 
> contract. And still more!  I am offering services in trade for a road bike, 
> or frame and parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 
> to 1961. See my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.*
>
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Summer Parts Purge Bump + Lowered Prices

[Eric Karnes]

Price drops for what's remaining...


- Original Silver DT Shifters: Only used the rear one a few times. $30

- Nitto Fairweather Mod 174 Drop Bar (Black 40cm): Like a Noodle with only 
75mm of reach. $40

- Nitto R-14 Rear Rack: Good condition, found hex bolts to attach it to the 
Riv braze-ons. $70


If you still think a price is too high, feel free to make an offer! I want 
to clear up room in the shop (i.e. my kitchen).


Eric


On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 7:02:02 PM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> a few sales pending. here's what's left (plus a new item):
>
> - Brooks Cambium C17 Carved Black: Practically new; only ridden a few 
> times; have two and only need one. $100
>
> - Original Silver DT Shifters: Only used the right side one a few times. 
> $40
>
> - Suntour XC 9000 Front Hub: Good condition, spins well. $20
>
> - Nitto Fairweather Mod 174 Drop Bar (Black 40cm): Like a Noodle with only 
> 75mm of reach. $50
>
> - Tektro RX4.1 Inverse Brake Levers: Like new. $15
>
> - Nitto R-14 Rear Rack: Good condition, can’t find the hex bolts to attach 
> it to Riv braze-ons, but I’ll include them if they turn up. $90
>
> - VO Grand Cru 1” Threaded Headset (Silver): New in box, never 
> installed. $35
>
>
> Photos: 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/35128198@N02/albums/72157683105393891. 
> Contact me off-list if interested. And the two wheelsets are still 
> available.
>
>
> Eric
>
>
> On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 5:38:01 PM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>
>> Hi all-
>>
>>
>> Consolidating my bikes to fit into my tiny apartment and selling some 
>> extra parts. All prices include standard USPS shipping...
>>
>>
>> - Brooks Cambium C17 Carved Black: Practically new; only ridden a few 
>> times; have two and now only need one. $100
>>
>> - Original Silver DT Shifters: Only used the right side one a few times. 
>> $30
>>
>> - Deore 9sp Rear Derailleur: Great condition; cogs have been switched for 
>> use in a 1x system, but can be switched back. $20
>>
>> - Suntour XC 9000 Front Hub: Good condition, spins well. $20
>>
>> - Ergon Biokork Grips: Great condition. $20
>>
>> - Nitto Fairweather Mod 174 Drop Bar (Black 40cm): Like a Noodle with 
>> only 75mm of reach. $50
>>
>> - Albatross Bar (aluminum): Scratched at clamp area from a shim. $40
>>
>> - Tektro RX4.1 Inverse Brake Levers: Like new. $15
>>
>> - Tektro CR720 Cantilever Brakes w/ Kool Stop pads: Full set; good 
>> condition; includes hangers and springs and such (though not pictured in 
>> photo). $25
>>
>> - Nitto R-14 Rear Rack: Good condition, can’t find the hex bolts to 
>> attach it to Riv braze-ons, but I’ll include them if they turn up. $90
>>
>>
>> Photos: 
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/35128198@N02/albums/72157683105393891. 
>> Contact me off-list if interested.
>>
>>
>> Eric
>>
>>
>> ps.
>>
>> I also have two wheelsets…Dura-ace to Mavic Open Pro (silver) and 105 
>> (5800) to DTSwiss R460 (black). Was planning to sell locally, but if anyone 
>> from the list is interested, I’d sell them for $200 each plus shipping 
>> though BikeFlights.
>>
>

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[RBW] I finally made it out to Riv

[Rory Woods]

I haven't been to Riv, but I suspect the high spirit of the folks who work 
there has a lot to do with being treated well by their employers and finding 
their work meaningful. 
Sad that this is the exception rather than the rule. 

Rory 
Point Arena, CA

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[RBW] Re: When your cycling coach says "Ok, now bend over"

[George Schick]

"All disease begins in the gut" - Hippocrates

BTW, the latest on improving gut health is bovine colostrum.


On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 8:14:18 AM UTC-5, Tim wrote:
>
> Presented to the group without comment:
>
> http://www.bicycling.com/training/is-poop-doping-the-next-big-thing
>

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[RBW] Re: Best front rack for Hunqapillar?

[Marc Irwin]

On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 10:48:04 AM UTC-4, Marc Irwin wrote:
>
> I like the Surly front rack.  Granted it's not finished as well and ain't 
> quite pretty, but it certainly is functional and I'm a lot happier than I 
> was with Blackburn lowriders.  That of course is a little beefier than 
> holding a rando bag, and I think the Nitto Campee would be the ideal for 
> the Hunq, because you can use or remove the lowrider racks at will and 
> still have a nice platform for a rando bag.
> I have a couple of posts on my blog concerning the change.
> http://simplecycle-marc.blogspot.com/2015/06/the-evolving-mammoth.html
>
> http://simplecycle-marc.blogspot.com/2015/03/been-busy-feeling-sorry-for-myself.html
>
> Marc
>
> On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 8:13:22 PM UTC-4, Michele wrote:
>>
>> What are people using for a small rack to support a rando bag or basket? 
>> I'm wondering if the Nitto M-12 rack would work? Is there something more 
>> appropriate?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Best front rack for Hunqapillar?

[Marc Irwin]

I like the Surly front rack.  Granted it's not finished as well and ain't 
quite pretty, but it certainly is functional and I'm a lot happier than I 
was with Blackburn lowriders.
I have a couple of posts on my blog concerning the change.
http://simplecycle-marc.blogspot.com/2015/06/the-evolving-mammoth.html
http://simplecycle-marc.blogspot.com/2015/03/been-busy-feeling-sorry-for-myself.html

Marc

On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 8:13:22 PM UTC-4, Michele wrote:
>
> What are people using for a small rack to support a rando bag or basket? 
> I'm wondering if the Nitto M-12 rack would work? Is there something more 
> appropriate?
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone used a large Saddleback for touring?

[Marc Irwin]

I switched from a Frost River Gunflint Trail bag to a Large Saddlesack and 
am really happy.  I  have fought the urge to carry more and find it much 
better to have the extra room and waterproofing. Here's a little closer 

 look.

Marc

 look.On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 8:45:25 PM UTC-4, Dave Small wrote:
>
> A while back I bought a large Saddlesack thinking it'd be good for shorter 
> tours.  I'm taking a 7-day credit card tour soon and I'm having second 
> thoughts about using it.  It's bigger than I thought it'd be, large enough 
> that it's unwieldy sitting on top of the rack.  I'm considering using a 
> couple of Carradice Kendall panniers instead, which (combined) have the 
> same volume as the Saddlesack but sit lower, which may make the handling a 
> little better.  I'll be taking a Sam Hillborne with a Nitto Big Rear rack, 
> and won't have more than 20 lbs in the rear bag(s); in fact, it may be only 
> 10-15 lbs.  I'll have an Acorn Boxy Rando bag on a Mark's Rack on the front 
> regardless of what I do in the rear.  
>
> Does anyone have experience with the large Saddlesack for such use?  I can 
> think of pros and cons for each option, but would like opinions from those 
> who really know.  Thanks.
>
> Dave
>

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[RBW] Re: When your cycling coach says "Ok, now bend over"

['Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Patrick, I think you're absolutely right. Long before the "poop doping" 
article, I've been interested in the benefits of bacteria in the gut. It seems 
quite likely that in trying to make everything "sterile" we have eliminated a 
great deal of healthy bacteria that our systems have benefitted from since the 
beginning. I had previously read about healthy fecal matter being introduced 
into people's guts that cured chronic illnesses (I don't recall which illness, 
because I'm kind of dumb) so I believe there is evidence of efficacy.

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[RBW] Re: When your cycling coach says "Ok, now bend over"

[Deacon Patrick]

After the brain, the gut may be the system that is most critical, 
foundational and least understood by modern medicine. The gut has the 
second largest collection of nerves in the body, and is often called the 
second brain. If the gut (biome or function) is off is has a cascade effect 
on everything else, including the brain. In my ministry, it appears that 
helping heal the gut is foundational to addressing long-term, chronic 
issues from the ongoing stresses of brain injury, PTSD, and other chronic 
issues.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 7:14:18 AM UTC-6, Tim wrote:
>
> Presented to the group without comment:
>
> http://www.bicycling.com/training/is-poop-doping-the-next-big-thing
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone used a large Saddleback for touring?

[Michael Cinibulk]

Last year I did an ultralight 3-week tour of the French Alps carrying less than 
15 lbs in a large acorn boxy and Carradice Junior. Worked out very well. The 
only advantage to panniers is that they can be quickly removed and carried with 
you. I resorted to large nylon bags to remove my stuff each day. No problem 
with sway even during out of the saddle climbing. I really like this combo for 
light loads. 

Mike C
Bellbrook O

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[RBW] When your cycling coach says "Ok, now bend over"

['Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Presented to the group without comment:

http://www.bicycling.com/training/is-poop-doping-the-next-big-thing

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[RBW] Re: Best front rack for Hunqapillar?

[Orc]

On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 5:13:22 PM UTC-7, Michele wrote:
>
> What are people using for a small rack to support a rando bag or basket? 
> I'm wondering if the Nitto M-12 rack would work? Is there something more 
> appropriate?
>

I just braze up a 10x8 rack, which is a perfect size to fit the perimeter 
of a rando bag and apparently is also a good size to have a wire basket 
ziptied to it.   The super-narrow rando-style racks are fine, I guess, but 
rando bags tend to sag on them unless you do some heroic measures like also 
using a decaleur or drilling holes in the bottom and bolting them to the 
rack pjw-style.

-david parsons 

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[RBW] Best front rack for Hunqapillar?

[Garth]

Hoe big of a basket ?  I know many like to zip tie a Wald on the Nitto mini 
racks, but I'd never do it  myself. I'd get a porteur rack of some sort, prolly 
the Soma Deluxe or the VO one with the Surly strut kit to attach to the mid 
fork eyelets. Then I'd either use a bag inside the fence of the rack or attach 
some other kind of container, just not a flimsy wire basket since they are not 
made to be attached with the basket wires. 

For just a Rando bag the mini racks are fine, but I'd go with a M18 or 
M1(Mark's) that attach mid fork. I guess I'm not a fan of using the canti studs 
and special bolts for the brakes since the bolts don't work with every brake. 
The main difference in the M18 and M1 is one set of struts instead of 2, both 
have the fork tang mount. 

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[RBW] Re: Anyone used a large Saddleback for touring?

[ascpgh]

I used a Nelson Long Flap for 2500 miles of very light touring. I 
instigated the thought amongst our group of sleeping in cheap motels and 
eating in the diner counterparts rather than buying dedicated touring 
equipment (including bikes) and staying "outside of town" everywhere we 
ended our day's riding. More fun being amongst the locals. Large Saddleback 
should be just fine. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh


On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 8:45:25 PM UTC-4, Dave Small wrote:
>
> A while back I bought a large Saddlesack thinking it'd be good for shorter 
> tours.  I'm taking a 7-day credit card tour soon and I'm having second 
> thoughts about using it.  It's bigger than I thought it'd be, large enough 
> that it's unwieldy sitting on top of the rack.  I'm considering using a 
> couple of Carradice Kendall panniers instead, which (combined) have the 
> same volume as the Saddlesack but sit lower, which may make the handling a 
> little better.  I'll be taking a Sam Hillborne with a Nitto Big Rear rack, 
> and won't have more than 20 lbs in the rear bag(s); in fact, it may be only 
> 10-15 lbs.  I'll have an Acorn Boxy Rando bag on a Mark's Rack on the front 
> regardless of what I do in the rear.  
>
> Does anyone have experience with the large Saddlesack for such use?  I can 
> think of pros and cons for each option, but would like opinions from those 
> who really know.  Thanks.
>
> Dave
>

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[RBW] FS: Rivendell Jack Brown Blue

[Richard Rios]

HI All,

I have a set of used and in pretty good condition jack brown blues for 
sale. Asking 50$ for the pair shipped.  The side walls are a bit dirty and 
the pictures are lousy but it gives an idea of tread life / condition.


Best,
Richard
909 910-7424

Also have a set of the 650 B kendas that come stock on Clem real low miles 
I switched them out for a pair of conti nobbies.  Not sure if they are 
worth selling because shipping might kill the value but how bout 20$ plus 
actual shipping (you pick the poison and let me know what it will cost) Ill 
go as cheep cheep or luxy as you care to as long as actual cost is covered. 
Local pickup is always welcomed 92313 SoCal.

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