Re: Help /HORN CLAY
Dear Tony, I expect to be in Queensland from mid July to mid August. If there was interest in it I probably could fit in a workshop in New Zealand. I gave them a go in Australia in regards to radionic treatment and weather regeneration, and that was successful as far as making rain. What I'm worried about is how many farmers took home enough dowsing and radionic skills to do that kind of thing on their own hereafter. Best, Hugh The horns that were still buried were new horns that I had been given and were buried to get rid of the insides All these horns have been lifted covered with a white fungal growth Hopefully these will make some good 500, horn clay etc as they came from a convential cow herd. Thanks for reminding me. Best regards Tony R Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Help /HORN CLAY
- Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 1:38 AM Subject: Re: Help Incidentally, in making horn clay, when you take it out of the horn, DON'T scrape off the fungi and dispose of this before drying and grinding the clay, unless you are trying to collect a little concentrate horn clay fungi. That fungi is what you want, in aces and spades. It is one of the chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it? Dear Hugh That horn clay was made from our own clay, which is a yellow sticky clay and had been buried for about 16-17 months as I had forgotten to lift it up that autumn it was going to be 12month horn clay . I have been using it ever since at first with the 500 stir . I then had Peter Bacchus potentise it for me to use along with Glen and Peters Garuda range of potentised preps. Last spring in September I started to use all the preps in a sequential spray programme from Steve Storch modified a little to suit my own conditions.I am spraying every 2 months and I am very pleased with the results especially when we have been experiencing some dramatic 30 year weather cycle we have gone from the coldest wettest spring to the hottest and driest summer . it is predicted to go on for about another 4-5 weeks which means for us a 100 year drought . Anyway my fern crops which I harvest all year round are doing extremely well . The size of the crop has improved, production is better and so is the qualility. I have not had any complaints for several months. I have also noticed that my usual summer pest problems are less this year. Also a small amount of horn clay is mixed withall the preps 500,501,BC and spinled over the worm farms and the leachate is use as liquid feed on a weekly basis applied through the irrigation. Soon I will put down an autumn spring horn clay and then a spring -autumn ho rn clay this will be for my more seasonal crops. The horns that were still buried were new horns that I had been given and were buried to get rid of the insides All these horns have been lifted covered with a white fungal growth Hopefully these will make some good 500, horn clay etc as they came from a convential cow herd. Thanks for reminding me. Best regards Tony R
Re: Help
I have just recently used some horn manure horn clay mix, mostly made as my father leaned it from Ernst Stegeman. Seeing the results causes me to greatly regret having separated the clay out before stiring. when we applied it to the family farm 40 years ago. When I / we stir a barrel of 500 here it attracts rain. I have a long bamboo pole tied to a branch in a tree. With three people stiring the rain has come within one hour of the finish of stiring. When I stir alone it take five or six hours. I can just about see the grass growing in the sprayed zone. Peter. - Original Message - From: Rambler Flowers LTD [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 7:57 AM Subject: Re: Help - Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel [EMAIL PROTECTED] . chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it? Hi Hugh sorry for the delay . It has been a very busy week as well as my wife has been going through a homeopathic detox and it has made her very sick with the flu. Your post has reminded me that we reburied some horn clay and I have never lifted it , will check in the next day or two and report back. Yes I have been using horn clay ever since and my crops have been getting better. Back soon Tony R
RE: Help
Dear Michael, Many thanks for your support. We have had some torrential rains over the last week and hopefully, the mites will be washed away for this season, but we must be ready with a plan for next years attack. We have made a brew and some peppers and sprayed it. Will revert with the results. Warm Regards Anil -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of mroboz Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2003 12:28 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Help Dear Hugh, Could you provide an explanation as to your thought processes for Anil's mite problem. Perhaps now you are caught up and more energiized. Much appreciated, Michael - Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 10:19 PM Subject: Re: Help Anif Dear, For this I would use homeopathically potentized biodynamic horn clay plus stinging nettle sprayed or treated radionically in the afternoon. Then an evening treatment of homeopathic biodynamic yarrow remedy (502) followed the next morning with homeopathic biodynamic valerian remedy (507). The treatment might need to be repeated a few times. I could explain why but it would take some time and here it is very late at night. What are your access to biodynamic remedies and what would be your means of applying them? Best wishes, Hugh Lovel, Georgia, USA Dear Friends, I will be very grateful, if anyone , can give me some information or suggestions on how to control Mites in Organic Tea, especially Red Spider Mite ( Oligonycus coffea ) I work on a Organic Tea Plantation in South India, where we have also started started to appreciate the principles of BD farming and thus, very much in its infancy !! Thanking you, With Kind Regards Anil Dharmapalan
Re: Help
activity. But not only does this plant have the ability to stimulate the uptake of potash, it has a way of flushing away heavy metal toxicity and purging the soil of its contaminants. This explains one of the reasons it chows up on volcanic slopes tht may have any number of heavy metal problems from mercury to cadmium, berylium (a light metal) etc. Look at the way the leaves have more periphery per unit of surface area than any other plant. It works more strongly with the peripheral forces than any other remedy. So it can be of considerable support to the horn clay in the development of mycorrhyzae and the uptake of calcium, by ensuring the uptake of potash. So now we have the uptake of calcium, magnesium and potassium, the three most essential nutrient elements, all stimulated. The BD remedies, however, should be used in pairs for balance. Since my last workshop in Australia I've begun calling this tandem spraying. To use the various remedies like a painter's palette of colors it tends to be useful to use them in pairs. The common pairs are 502-507, 503-506 and 505-508. I guess I'll have to explain this later also, but this is how I've been pairing up the reagents in field broadcasters for about three years now and it is working beautifully. Anyway, I've found that if I need to spray 502, then I need also to spray the 507 the next morning to maintain balance between the earthly and the cosmic forces. Balance is so terribly inportant! What 507 does is stimulate the light ether and thus the phosphorus process. Where the chlorophyll draws energy into the leaf, the adenosine di-phosphate--tri-phosphate (ADP-ATP) bridge shunts this energy over into building carbon structures such as sugars in the leaf chemistry. In the brain and muscles just the opposite happens and the ATP-ADP bridge serves to conduct the energy back out of the sugars as (Steiner so poetically expressed it) nitrogen drags oxygen through the carbon framework freeing it of its rigidity. But anyway, the 507 by itself would lead the phosphorus process on into its highest expression, blossoming. However in tandem with the 502, the phosphorus process is held back into the watery realm of the leaf, so no harm in terms of early, profuse blossoming comes from using it. Rather it balances the 502 and the 502 balances it. I really think the horn clay sprayed after a balancing application of horn manure/horn silica would be likely to cure the spider mites by itself. But in Anif's case I felt the little extra of the 504 (nettle) and the 502 (yarrow)-507 (valerian) tandem sprays would be the quintessential fix. Really I hope Anif, wherever he/she may be, has access to these Steiner remedies as I feel sure this will work if it can be implemented. In my own case I use radionics and a Malcolm Rae type instrument with Malcolm Rae BD cards where I can dial whatever homeopathic potency I want, impart it to my spray tank of living water, and spray. All I'm using is patterned water. No stirring and spraying, no fuss or muss. Fill up the tank, build the potency in it, and in 15 minutes or so I'm able to spray. Thanks for asking for the details. I had forgotten about this. Really I need to put this kind of knowledge down in a book so people can get these ideas handily. Best, Hugh Dear Hugh, Could you provide an explanation as to your thought processes for Anil's mite problem. Perhaps now you are caught up and more energiized. Much appreciated, Michael - Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 10:19 PM Subject: Re: Help Anif Dear, For this I would use homeopathically potentized biodynamic horn clay plus stinging nettle sprayed or treated radionically in the afternoon. Then an evening treatment of homeopathic biodynamic yarrow remedy (502) followed the next morning with homeopathic biodynamic valerian remedy (507). The treatment might need to be repeated a few times. I could explain why but it would take some time and here it is very late at night. What are your access to biodynamic remedies and what would be your means of applying them? Best wishes, Hugh Lovel, Georgia, USA Dear Friends, I will be very grateful, if anyone , can give me some information or suggestions on how to control Mites in Organic Tea, especially Red Spider Mite ( Oligonycus coffea ) I work on a Organic Tea Plantation in South India, where we have also started started to appreciate the principles of BD farming and thus, very much in its infancy !! Thanking you, With Kind Regards Anil Dharmapalan Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Help
- Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel [EMAIL PROTECTED] . chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it? Hi Hugh sorry for the delay . It has been a very busy week as well as my wife has been going through a homeopathic detox and it has made her very sick with the flu. Your post has reminded me that we reburied some horn clay and I have never lifted it , will check in the next day or two and report back. Yes I have been using horn clay ever since and my crops have been getting better. Back soon Tony R
Re: Help
In a message dated 3/18/03 8:51:58 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Tony Robinson (Rambler Flowers) will probably remember digging up his horn clay when I gave a workshop at his place in August of 2000. It was one of the best examples of fungal (mycorrhyzal) development I've seen in horn clay. But, of course, I haven't seen as much horn clay as all that because it isn't so widely made as yet, having not been specifically recommended in the Agriculture Course. Nonetheless, I have slides of Tony's horn clay and you can see the rich fungal development. This is what you want on your plant roots. Mycorrhyzal colonization of plant roots can increase the mineral uptake of a plant by a factor of 10 or more. We have observed extensive mycorrhizal development in the soil of the 501 pits at jpi, a heavy clay soil...sstorch
Re: Help
Dear Hugh, Could you provide an explanation as to your thought processes for Anil's mite problem. Perhaps now you are caught up and more energiized. Much appreciated, Michael - Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 10:19 PM Subject: Re: Help Anif Dear, For this I would use homeopathically potentized biodynamic horn clay plus stinging nettle sprayed or treated radionically in the afternoon. Then an evening treatment of homeopathic biodynamic yarrow remedy (502) followed the next morning with homeopathic biodynamic valerian remedy (507). The treatment might need to be repeated a few times. I could explain why but it would take some time and here it is very late at night. What are your access to biodynamic remedies and what would be your means of applying them? Best wishes, Hugh Lovel, Georgia, USA Dear Friends, I will be very grateful, if anyone , can give me some information or suggestions on how to control Mites in Organic Tea, especially Red Spider Mite ( Oligonycus coffea ) I work on a Organic Tea Plantation in South India, where we have also started started to appreciate the principles of BD farming and thus, very much in its infancy !! Thanking you, With Kind Regards Anil Dharmapalan
Re: Help
on 15/3/03 2:23, Allan Balliett at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What sort of experiences have you (anyone) had with using 501 in a greenhouse? I think that Grotzke advised that it is too strong for use in a greenhouse. (?) For this reason, I have held off using it. First outbreak of aphids makes me think of using it. I think heinz mentioned a residual and a generalized effect that henceforth makes the house uncomfortable for seedlings. But, what is you life experience? Thanks -Allan Have used 501 four times this season on indoor tomatoes. We had the best plants ever and unusually few fungal diseases. Sweet basil,though, tends to bud straight after application, but plants also ended up more fungus resistant. Small inconvenient really and a nice proof that 501 works! But I agree with Grotzke: I would not treat tomatoes and f.ex lettuces at the same time: unless I wanted seedheads on my lettuces! Daniel
Re: Help
Dears, Upon seeing aphids I would tend to think the sap is weak and watery. If you tasted this sap (as good a test, if not better, as a refractometer) it would be bland rather than rich and catch-at-your-throat. To some extent 501 WILL help, as it influences the strength with which the silica force comes up from within the earth , and that is what carries the lime and other strong minerals upward along with the nitrogen, which is what makes the plant lush. But the real key is the clay, which is the mediator between silica and lime and is what needs stimulating if the silica force is to carry lime up into the sap of the plant and to the growing tip. Thus the sure-fire remedy--I suspect almost every time--for aphids is horn clay. Apply it along with applications of horn manure and horn silica and you not only won't see any imbalances between lime and silica and your basil won't rush too bloody quickly to bloom, but you won't see any aphids. Tony Robinson (Rambler Flowers) will probably remember digging up his horn clay when I gave a workshop at his place in August of 2000. It was one of the best examples of fungal (mycorrhyzal) development I've seen in horn clay. But, of course, I haven't seen as much horn clay as all that because it isn't so widely made as yet, having not been specifically recommended in the Agriculture Course. Nonetheless, I have slides of Tony's horn clay and you can see the rich fungal development. This is what you want on your plant roots. Mycorrhyzal colonization of plant roots can increase the mineral uptake of a plant by a factor of 10 or more. Clay mediates between silica and lime all right. It's the bridge that get the lime, phosphorus, potash, etc. into the plant. Here's a Steiner said. On pages 32 and 33 of the Agriculture Course, Creeger/Gardener translation, Steiner is talking about the mineral forces and their tendency to crystalize and to become free from the Earth's influence and come under the influence of the distant cosmic forces that are within the earth. He goes on to say, Let me remark here that if we are dealing with a soil that does not carry these influences upward during the winter as it should, it is good to furnish the soil with some clay, the dosage of which I will indicate later. With the clay, we prepare the soil to conduct the crystalline force upward, for the plant growth above the Earth's surface. Horn clay will also cure spider mites, grasshoppers, and quite a few other insect infestations. I remember one Florida nursery under shadecloth where in the less lush area Pitosporum had absolutely no spider mites while the lusher areas were infested.There are a couple of species of predatory mites that eat spider mites, and I was using a small Radio Shack microscope watching this process. The predator mites were racing around the leaf, pinching the sloth-like, sucking spider mites as though they were Hansel's witch checking to see if he was ready to roast yet. In the area with the weaker sap they kept racing around, checking but not eating. In the stronger sap areas there simply weren't any spider mites. The predators had them completely in check. Taste a leaf in the weaker sap area? Mild and the juice could be swallowed pleasantly enough. Taste a leaf from the stronger sap part? Whew, the caustic limeness of it warned you not to swallow. The remedy for the area where the plants were too lush and the nitrogen uptake was well ahead of the lime was horn clay. Incidentally, in making horn clay, when you take it out of the horn, DON'T scrape off the fungi and dispose of this before drying and grinding the clay, unless you are trying to collect a little concentrate horn clay fungi. That fungi is what you want, in aces and spades. It is one of the chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it? Best wishes, Hugh Lovel Have used 501 four times this season on indoor tomatoes. We had the best plants ever and unusually few fungal diseases. Sweet basil,though, tends to bud straight after application, but plants also ended up more fungus resistant. Small inconvenient really and a nice proof that 501 works! But I agree with Grotzke: I would not treat tomatoes and f.ex lettuces at the same time: unless I wanted seedheads on my lettuces! Daniel Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Help
I've used 501 in glashouses on tomato plants. The fruit flavours were much improved. Much the same rules apply as those for outdoor plants; look at leaf form. If it is round and juicy 501 is helpful provided the other preparations are still active. If the plant has smaller, pointy leaves with more pronounced serations, preparations from the 500 end of the spectrum are called for, and or a feed. Peter. What sort of experiences have you (anyone) had with using 501 in a greenhouse? I think that Grotzke advised that it is too strong for use in a greenhouse. (?) For this reason, I have held off using it. First outbreak of aphids makes me think of using it. I think heinz mentioned a residual and a generalized effect that henceforth makes the house uncomfortable for seedlings. But, what is you life experience? Thanks -Allan
Re: Help
- Original Message - From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 1:23 AM Subject: Re: Help What sort of experiences have you (anyone) had with using 501 in a greenhouse? I think that Grotzke advised that it is too strong for use in a greenhouse. (?) For this reason, I have held off using it. First outbreak of aphids makes me think of using it. I think heinz mentioned a residual and a generalized effect that henceforth makes the house uncomfortable for seedlings. But, what is you life experience? Thanks -Allan Hi I have been using 501 and Potentised 501 under 30,000 sq feet of plastic houses for 10 years and havn't had any problems . In fact growing under cover I feel that you should be using it more often particularly when light levels are low and plant growth is soft. Cheers Tony R
Re: Help
spray more silica/ bd501... sstorch
Re: Help
In a message dated 3/14/03 8:29:54 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: What sort of experiences have you (anyone) had with using 501 in a greenhouse? I think that Grotzke advised that it is too strong for use in a greenhouse. (?) For this reason, I have held off using it. First outbreak of aphids makes me think of using it. I think heinz mentioned a residual and a generalized effect that henceforth makes the house uncomfortable for seedlings. I don't know how Heinz brought the climate of Germany to his New Hampshire greenhouse but I do not doubt that he did. If using the 501 to repel / make uncomfortable for aphids and not used to increase light, you may want to spray late in the afternoon, soaking the critters well; you may also try a nettles tea and ask the ants and lady bugs to come and eat...sstorch
Re: Help
ask the ants and lady bugs to come and eat...sstorch Not the ants, Steve. Don't invite the ants to the greenhouse. It is they who manage the aphids...
Re: Help
Anif Dear, For this I would use homeopathically potentized biodynamic horn clay plus stinging nettle sprayed or treated radionically in the afternoon. Then an evening treatment of homeopathic biodynamic yarrow remedy (502) followed the next morning with homeopathic biodynamic valerian remedy (507). The treatment might need to be repeated a few times. I could explain why but it would take some time and here it is very late at night. What are your access to biodynamic remedies and what would be your means of applying them? Best wishes, Hugh Lovel, Georgia, USA Dear Friends, I will be very grateful, if anyone , can give me some information or suggestions on how to control Mites in Organic Tea, especially Red Spider Mite ( Oligonycus coffea ) I work on a Organic Tea Plantation in South India, where we have also started started to appreciate the principles of BD farming and thus, very much in its infancy !! Thanking you, With Kind Regards Anil Dharmapalan -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Steve Diver Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 7:50 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Fermented foods in China, book review Here is a book review on fermented foods in China. When you think about (EM) Effective Microorganisms from Japan and (IMO) Indigenous Microoganisms from Korea, you realize you can learn about agricultural applications of fermented soil and foliar cultures by learning about fermented foods and microbiology.Soil biology and microbial applications become clearer when you study the whole process and the culture from which they emerge. Regards, Steve Diver == Book review in: Food Research International Volume 35, Issue 6 , 2002 , Pages 595-596 By Danji Fukushima Noda Institute for Scientific Research Noda-shi Chiba-ken 278-0037 Japan Science and Civilization in China, Volume 6, Part V: Fermentations and Food Science H. T. Huang. Cambridge University Press, 2001, pp. 741. ISBN 0-521-6527-7. Price: $150.00 This book is part of Science and Civilisation in China series and focused on the scientific basis and historical background of the fermentations and food processing technologies that are the mainstay of the Chinese dietary system. The Introduction described in Chapter (a) begins with a survey of the food resources in ancient China, and an account of how the food materials were prepared, cooked, and presented for consumption. It is followed by Chapter (b), which is a review on the literature and sources used in exploring the processing technology. The main topic appears in Chapter (c): the fermentation technology and its evolution to the production of alcoholic drinks in their various manifestations. Included also is a comparison of the very different technologies between East Asia and the West for converting grains into alcoholic beverages and an explanation of the reason for this difference. The next topic discussed in Chapter (d) is the processing of soybeans to convert to palatable, nutritious food products, such as bean curds (non-fermented) or soy nuggets, soy pastes, soy sauce (fermented), and others. Chapter (e) is on food processing and preservation, including pasta and filamentous noodles. The subsequent topic described in Chapter (f) is tea processing. Chapter (g) relates to nutrition, which is focused on the natural history of disease in China due to nutritional deficiency. Chapter (h) ends the volume with a series of reflections on how nature, technology, and human intervention have induced the discovery and innovation of processed foods in traditional China. The most characteristic feature in the fermentation technology in East Asia is the outstanding role of molded grain mass of Aspergillus, Rhizopus, and/or Mucor, known as chhu or koji. This unique ingredient, mold ferment, was developed originally for making alcoholic drinks from grains in ancient China, but there was no parallel invention in the early civilization in the West. The author has ascribed this difference to the nature (cultivated grains and environment) and technology (prior art of fabricating a pottery steamer) through the speculation from ancient classical literature. In China, the grains, which are millet and rice, contain soft kernels that can be directly boiled or steamed. The climate in China is hot and humid in summer. Plant residues of both grains are favorable to fungal growth. As a result, the air over the Neolithic communities in China might have been loaded with spores of these fungi. The conditions thus promoted must have been appropriate for spores to find a suitable site on the steamed granules to stimulate germination and growth thereafter. On the other hand, in ancient Sumeria and Egypt, the major grains were wheat and barley. Their hard kernels had to be ground into meal or flour before they could be cooked. A smooth paste prepared from flour would have a limited surface to attract airborne fungal
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
Tony It does not seem specific, just any eating the crop that is sprayed. G - Original Message - From: Rambler Flowers LTD [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2003 9:31 AM Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends - Original Message - From: Garuda [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 7:57 AM Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends We have a bird scare spray which has shown good results on various crops. Hi Glen. What species of birds? Thankyou Tony R
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
- Original Message - From: Garuda [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 8:20 AM Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends Tony It does not seem specific, just any eating the crop that is sprayed. G Glen I have had a major problem with birds this season in particular blackbirds,thrushes, starlings digging plants up out of the ground , between 50 -250 plants at a time. It became so bad this year that I had to cover crops with netting. it is also very frustrating to get blackberry and oldmans beard growing in amongst the crops. I even have them digging up mature broccoli plants in the vege garden. Along with sparrow I consider them a noxious pest along with rabbits and possums. Sparrow poop on flowers does not excite the consumer. Will bird scare help in this area? Thanks Ton y
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
- Original Message - From: Garuda [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 7:57 AM Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends We have a bird scare spray which has shown good results on various crops. Hi Glen. What species of birds? Thankyou Tony R
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
Hi, Sorry, if I repeat someone elses comment. I haven't followed the discussion on this topic closely. Has anyone mentioned flying a hawke, kite, any bird of prey type of kite? Some grape growers are doing it here in Sunraysia, Victoria, Australia, and since they are doing it for several years, I assume they are having some effect. The main problem I think are honeyeaters sucking the sweet juicy grape berries. Yesterday I saw a cultural gem that brought a real happy smile to my face. I was driving a long the road, when something bright and colourful caught the corner of my eye. At the end of each row of fruit trees, I'ld say at least ten of them, huge stuffed scarecrows were put up in the most brightly coloured clothes; all human shape except for one that depicted a dragon or dinosaur. My guess is that school kids from the local primary school (they are very active here in hands on experiences having their own vege garden, planting trees, monitoring river salinity, breeding and releasing biological control agents etc.) made them and put them up. I do not know, if they work, but they are beautiful to look at, and I am sure the kids had a ball making them. Christiane
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
what kind of feathered friends? Bob
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
why, what was the problem ?? Gideon. - Original Message - From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 3:21 AM Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends Anyone with answers for TJH please sent them to [EMAIL PROTECTED], I've removed 'him' from BD Now! -Allan It seems that our Feathered Friends really enjoy our crops. We have put reflector tape out, which only seems to work a few days. Does anyone have any workable solutions; physical, energetic or elemental? Thanks. TJH
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
why, what was the problem ?? Gideon. Sending mail with attachments after I asked him to fix the problem. If he corrects that technical difficulty, I will re-sub him. -Allan
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
We have a bird scare spray which has shown good results on various crops. We are beginning trial on grapes with HortResearch tomorrow and should have the results in a couple of months. Otherwise you could have a go. What is your crop? GA - Original Message - From: Spiritual Renaissance Center [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: BDNOW [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 5:32 AM Subject: Help with Our Feathered Friends It seems that our Feathered Friends really enjoy our crops. We have put reflector tape out, which only seems to work a few days. Does anyone have any workable solutions; physical, energetic or elemental? Thanks. TJH
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
- Original Message - From: Spiritual Renaissance Center [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: BDNOW [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 3:32 AM Subject: Help with Our Feathered Friends It seems that our Feathered Friends really enjoy our crops. We have put reflector tape out, which only seems to work a few days. Does anyone have any workable solutions; physical, energetic or elemental? Thanks. TJH BD peppers applied at homeopathic potencies can work well, and applied radionically with a field broadcaster pipe can be very effective too, however its easier when the birds (or any mobile pest) have an alternative venue. You also need to be mad enough at the birds to kill one for the pepper or lucky enough to find a fresh one dead (road kill). Cheers Lloyd Charles
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
Anyone with answers for TJH please sent them to [EMAIL PROTECTED], I've removed 'him' from BD Now! -Allan It seems that our Feathered Friends really enjoy our crops. We have put reflector tape out, which only seems to work a few days. Does anyone have any workable solutions; physical, energetic or elemental? Thanks. TJH
Re: Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called Our Margin of Life
You can go to www.addall.com they have the book there under used books. Half.com is selling it for $22.50 - Original Message - From: Spiritual Renaissance Center To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 9:58 PM Subject: Re: Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called "Our Margin of Life" Here it is: Our Margin of Life by Eugene M. Poirot Alberto Machado wrote: Dear all I ask a favor please if any body knows where can I by the book bellow:Eugene M. Poirot wrote a book in 1950 called "Our Margin of Life". 3 This book details his experiences in the restoration of soils and the health benefits to animals when fed crops grown on high vitality soils. His son-in-law, a veterinarian who practiced in the same town as I did, confirmed the accuracy of this account, here quoted from Poirot's book Sincerly Albeerto Machado Email : [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called Our Margin of Life
Here it is: Our Margin of Life by Eugene M. Poirot Alberto Machado wrote: Dear all I ask a favor please if any body knows where can I by the book bellow:Eugene M. Poirot wrote a book in 1950 called "Our Margin of Life". 3 This book details his experiences in the restoration of soils and the health benefits to animals when fed crops grown on high vitality soils. His son-in-law, a veterinarian who practiced in the same town as I did, confirmed the accuracy of this account, here quoted from Poirot's book Sincerly Albeerto Machado Email : [EMAIL PROTECTED] begin:vcard n:; x-mozilla-html:FALSE adr:;; version:2.1 x-mozilla-cpt:;1536 end:vcard
Re: Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called Our Margin of Life
Here it is: Our Margin of Life by Eugene M. Poirot Alberto Machado wrote: Dear all I ask a favor please if any body knows where can I by the book bellow:Eugene M. Poirot wrote a book in 1950 called "Our Margin of Life". 3 This book details his experiences in the restoration of soils and the health benefits to animals when fed crops grown on high vitality soils. His son-in-law, a veterinarian who practiced in the same town as I did, confirmed the accuracy of this account, here quoted from Poirot's book Sincerly Albeerto Machado Email : [EMAIL PROTECTED] begin:vcard n:; x-mozilla-html:FALSE adr:;; version:2.1 x-mozilla-cpt:;1536 end:vcard
Re: Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called Our Margin of Life
Alberto Machado wrote: I ask a favor please if any body knows where can I by the book bellow: Eugene M. Poirot wrote a book in 1950 called Our Margin of Life. 3 This book details his experiences in the restoration of soils and the health benefits to animals when fed crops grown on high vitality soils. His son-in-law, a veterinarian who practiced in the same town as I did, confirmed the accuracy of this account, here quoted from Poirot's book Email : [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] available from ACRES USA in paperback through Amazon.com or hardback through www.abebooks.com (run a search on the title) roger -- %% May I have given you seeds, that you can turn into roots, that will bear fruit in the future. (Rudolf Steiner) %% Reiki Healer, Earth Healing, Natural Energy Divination Earthcare Environmental Solutions
Re: Help with burying horn
Christy, We did the BC too last week. Finally got some manure locally. We dug a hole in one of our French intensive broccoli beds that was high and put 10 fire bricks (bigger than regular bricks) in an oval only 3 levels high. We potentized the manure with local basalt and eggshells I ground up in my suribachi and two sets of preps, put it in the hole and covered with a piece of plywood, then covered the whole area deeply with quaking aspen leaves I raked up from the driveway. Hope all is O.K. It rained a bunch last night. We're having a warm spell. A friend, Joe Clark, is lending me 14 horns. I saved some manure for them (I think I have enough) and hope to pick them up today. I was feeling glad I had put the bentonite in the horn this morning since it rained so much last night. Wouldn't the horn just fill up with water? Is that a good thing? Best, Merla The Korrows wrote: I might suggest packing soil around the horn with in the clay tile, and if you think the bricks might get scooted around, you could tie some nylon screen over each end, as is sometimes done with stinging nettle. I know Hugh C. doesn't seal the manure horns with bentonite (I believe he does seal the silica horns up), neither do I or, neither does Jeff. I got my first stag bladder of the year yesterday. My neighbor Ron rode over on his four wheeler, pistol at his side, rifle in the holder, and a big buck tied to the front , he zoomed up and dangled a little bladder in front of me. So I am slowly gettting these guys trained. I am so happy your a re burrying a horn Merla!! Christy
Re: Help with burying horn
Christy, It really rained heavily all night last night and I was thinking that it was a good thing I sealed that horn with bentonite. Would it have filled up with water and would that have been all right? Last week, Green and I dug an oval hole in our tallest French intensive bed which is in one of the warmest parts of the garden and put 10 fire bricks (larger than regular bricks) three tiers high in it. We potentized some local manure with local basalt that my husband identified and I ground up 3 dozen eggshells in my suribachi and put in two sets of compost preps, stirring the valerian for 20 minutes. We didn't quite fill up the hole because I held out some manure to fill 14 horns that Joe Clarke is lending me. I'll pick them up today or tomorrow and get them in during this warm spell. We covered the whole area with quaking aspen leaves. What ever happened with your video idea? Best, Merla The Korrows wrote: I might suggest packing soil around the horn with in the clay tile, and if you think the bricks might get scooted around, you could tie some nylon screen over each end, as is sometimes done with stinging nettle. I know Hugh C. doesn't seal the manure horns with bentonite (I believe he does seal the silica horns up), neither do I or, neither does Jeff. I got my first stag bladder of the year yesterday. My neighbor Ron rode over on his four wheeler, pistol at his side, rifle in the holder, and a big buck tied to the front , he zoomed up and dangled a little bladder in front of me. So I am slowly gettting these guys trained. I am so happy your a re burrying a horn Merla!! Christy
Re: Help with burying horn
I might suggest packing soil around the horn with in the clay tile, and if you think the bricks might get scooted around, you could tie some nylon screen over each end, as is sometimes done with stinging nettle. I know Hugh C. doesn't seal the manure horns with bentonite (I believe he does seal the silica horns up), neither do I or, neither does Jeff. I got my first stag bladder of the year yesterday. My neighbor Ron rode over on his four wheeler, pistol at his side, rifle in the holder, and a big buck tied to the front , he zoomed up and dangled a little bladder in front of me. So I am slowly gettting these guys trained. I am so happy your a re burrying a horn Merla!! Christy
Re: Help with burying horn
Hi Merla, plug the horn with clay and use it with the 500 when done. Use your powerful thoughts and great, wonderful, loving intentions, and place the horn in the sheath of the earth surrounded and protected by the light of the Christ. In the Spring when you go to dig it up I guarantee it will be fine. You can do it...Love, SStorch ps: your frogs are very happy here in Water Mill, NY
Re: Help with 508
allen , on 508, i simmer the horsetail in rainwater as to jpi's instuctions for 20 minutes ,then put it in glass gallon jugs with the horsetail in it , store it behind the woodstove in the kitchen.,for 6 weeks . when opened it smells like rotten eggs , a sulfur smell that even permeates into the water when you spray it. i made the mistake in the past of forgetting to put the leaves into the jugwith the simmered tea and got the same oat straw results . you will definately know the smell, when you've got it. hope this helps. :)sharon - Original Message - From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 11:02 AM Subject: Help with 508 I've been working with a batch of equisetum tea of the past two weeks. I made it with a unit of 508 simmered in 1 gal of water per H.C.'s directions. I've stored the resultant tea in a clean heritage 5 gal crock in the back of our seed shed, where it's out of the sun and the temp stays relatively cool, even in our 100+ weather. I'm waiting for the 'characteristic' smell before making a D4 solution for storage. I'm not getting the 'characteristic' smell, which H.C. says is a 'just awful' odor. Instead, my tea has gone from smelling like oat straw tea to smelling like little or nothing. It's been two weeks. Anyone else have a 'problem' like this? To be frank, 508 has never 'gotten stinky' for me and I've always thought that the straw smell was the 'characteristic' smell. Help! Thanks Allan
Re: Help with 508
Also, I thought I remembered something about storing this in glass in a window, but maybe I am wrong. Did Courtney tell you to store it in a crock out of the light. My recollection was that it s.b. in a crock out of the sunlight. Of course, that's my recollection..
Re: Help on buying a Refractometer
- Original Message - From: Merla Barberie [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: BD Now [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 6:10 AM Subject: Help on buying a Refractometer Hi Merla I have questions. Do I want ATC or not? Yes - it saves having to calibrate the thing repeatedly What is the significance of .02 and .05 accuracy? Most of us (unless you are an eagle eyed teenager) won't be able to read it accurately enough in the field to tell the difference What is the significance of the great cost difference among refractometers? a: retailer margin b: instrument quality (brand name) How good a one do I need? a decent middle of the road one will do fine - our meter man sells for $225 aussie - shoud be about US$110 to $140 for a ATC What are people's experiences with their refractometers and which ones do you recommend and why? There must be more brands than I have named. the real cheapest (of anything) has always got to be suspect for quality and lifespan. I bet if Herb was buying a rifle scope he would go without rather than buy the absolute cheapest one? If you get going with this take time to re read Hugh Lovel's post that you refer to here. You need to be aware that plant brix is a very mobile thing. The most value is in the comparison measurements that you make in the same place and at the same time . Even in half an hour the brix readings will change so that if you are measuring the effect of a test treatment you need to again measure the untreated at the same time. Your state of mind and thought patterns as you do it can effect the readings !! Cheers Lloyd Charles I went over my old BD Now emails on the subject and came up with the following below Thank you, Merla Rex Harrill P.O. Box 6, Keedysville, MD 21756 (301) 432-2979 Westover RHB-32ATC (automatic temperature control) $135 + $4.00 shipping by priority mail [probably out of date] Pike Instruments, Agri-Lab Supplies Inc., RR2, Box 710 Strong, ME 04983 (207) 684-5131 $125 (Acres USA) Gemplers, www.gemplers.com 1-800-382-8437 Economy Vista $164 +-.05 accuracy Atago N-la $189 +-.02 accuracy Atago ATC-1E $330 Char Downer, National Industrial Supply, 392 S. Miraleste Drive, #492, San Pedro,CA 90732 RHB-32 $59.99 RHB-32 ATC 65.99
Re: Help on buying a Refractometer
Title: Re: Help on buying a Refractometer Merla, Call Gempler's for their catalogue. The Super can ogle all the rubber gloves, tyvac, respirators, measuring cups, boots all. Then the refractometer will not seem so foreign. The product coach at Gempler's may be of help to give you the type of language that will cut through his poor hazy consciousness. They may even have a pamphlet to recommend. The call is free and they're friendly folks. They also have Plant stress detection glasses developed by NASA which may give you the information you want/need with a lot less work. Squeezing enough juice from roadside weeds to get readings will be difficult if not a lost cause. The glasses are $50 and he can see the changes too! best of Luck In Love Light Markess Hi all, I am trying to get the Weed Supervisor to O.K. the purchase of a refractometer on the Rapid Lightning cost/share grant. He never heard of one and wants me to find someone in our county who has before he will O.K. it. I have called Bob Wilson, the Extension Agent, but he hasn't returned my call. Called again. Surely he or someone can help, but failing that I will just have to try and convince the Weed Supervisor of the value of being able to test plants for their vigor 30 minutes after various applications.
Re: Help on buying a Refractometer
Squeezing enough juice from roadside weeds to get readings will be difficult if not a lost cause. But a pair of those modified vise-grips from Pike Labs will keep it from being impossible! -Allan
Re: Help on buying a Refractometer
Title: Re: Help on buying a Refractometer True a must have even for garden plants aside from fruit. Squeezing enough juice from roadside weeds to get readings will be difficult if not a lost cause. But a pair of those modified vise-grips from Pike Labs will keep it from being impossible! -Allan
Re: Help support legislation on genetically engineered food/crops
Hi Tony, I'm working on the homoeopathic principle. If you say it often enough one will eventually reach the right potency and the desired effect may manifest. Thanks for your post on the Meter Man I met him briefly at Mystry Creek. He had a briliant kirlian photograph of an organic wheat grain and a chemically fertilised. the difference had to be seen to be believed. Cheers, Peter.
Kirlian Photograph was Re: Help support legislation
Peter - Can you fill us in on Kirlian photography? i.e. why was this picture impressive to you? -Allan Hi Tony, I'm working on the homoeopathic principle. If you say it often enough one will eventually reach the right potency and the desired effect may manifest. Thanks for your post on the Meter Man I met him briefly at Mystry Creek. He had a briliant kirlian photograph of an organic wheat grain and a chemically fertilised. the difference had to be seen to be believed. Cheers, Peter.
RE: Help with Glycyrrhiza glabra when to plant?
Jane writes: Should I have gotten the Chinese variety for medicinal use? Jane, I can't tell you too much about when to plant this guy, there are better experts here than I, but I can give my two cents about the plant medicinally. Generally, I favour using the herbs from where you are, so American Licorice (glabra) if you are over here. But, in this case, one point to consider is that in some people, Licorice can aggravate hypertension by causing sodium retention, and the Chinese Licorice (uralensis) has less of a tendency to do this than the American you have. I am not of the mindset that there are any inherently dangerous plants, and I don't want to be seen as being on the anti-Licorice (or Comfrey, or Chaparral, or whatever else suddenly becomes dangerous according to FDA) bandwagon. Unless your hypertension is severe, most of American Licorice's effects can be balanced out by extra water, potassium (i.e. take it with Dandelion), and moderation of use. But, just so you know, the Chinese does seem to act in a more balanced way at least regarding this issue. I do know that both are really easy to grow, and lovely in their rambling pea-vetchy way, I am quite fond of their wood candy roots. Both types contain amazing healing properties wrapped up in beautifully complex chemistries, I hope you get to know them well! Strength Wisdom, Micah Al-Qemi- Alchemical Spagyric products for healing body, spirit soul. Visit us on the web at: www.al-qemi.com http://www.al-qemi.com
Re: Help with Glycyrrhiza glabra when to plant?
my experience with licorice root... i planted the russian version , yes you should plant the chinese.i didn't and just harvestedthe 4 yr old russian root last fall and it taste way yukkie! it may have the same medicinals or not ,but it is an abdaptagene so i think taste is important. so plant it in a pot on a root day and get some chinese.. live and learn :)sharon - Original Message - From: jsherry [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Bdnow [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 8:41 AM Subject: Help with Glycyrrhiza glabra when to plant? Hello, I have licorice which I am not sure whether to consider a root or stem plant? Steven Foster says it is an underground stem, Richter's little plastic thing that came with the plant says the underground stolons are used for flavoring etc (oops, is that what a stolon is? An underground stem?). I guess I thought it was roots being used? Should I have gotten the Chinese variety for medicinal use? Anyone know? I was thinking of using that little window this morning (8-11 am EST) to plant it even though we're just after the eclipse. One of them is begging to go into the ground, the other two are growing fast, and I would rather not wait a week. Anyone with experience? Thanks, Jane
Re: Help Please
On Friday, March 15, 2002, at 06:08 AM, Bonnie York wrote: Hello bdnow friends, What would be beneficial to plant under apple trees? I'm asking about beneficial grasses. Clover? Rye? Alfalfa? Wheat?
