[Chevelle-list] virus
A user of the chevelle list has sent an attachment out called foto.zip which my Norton Anti-Virus stated was a virus. Be careful with this. Keith C. Cooper
Re: [Chevelle-list] Remove Me
Enough! GO HERE. Stop your crying! http://www.chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net/ To unsubscribe from Chevelle-list, get a password reminder, or change your subscription options enter your subscription email address: If you leave the field blank, you will be prompted for your email address - Original Message - From: Winn James M MSgt 355 MXG/MXQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 10:16 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Remove Me Where oh where are these instructions you speak of??? When I could find them, I did exactly what it said, and still, today I get 40 or so e-mails a day from people with nothing else to do but spout meaningless banter about subjects barely dealing with the almighty Chevelle. I checked all of the e-mails I received today, and none had the unsubscribe instructions. A far cry from the 90% you say with self righteous confidence. Oh, I'm sorry, are those words too big for you too? Did you think that maybe the poor guy just didn't know how or where to find them? Or are you all just self absorbed A-typers who can't help out someone with a legitimate question? I still wish to unsubscribe also, but can't find the unsubscribe either. And whoever wrote the lengthy pseudo-instructions you keep insisting on all who request, definitely had too much time on their hands. I can't stand to read the same crap from the same people who have nothing else better to do than play with their computer all day. Go work on your car already Jim, '69 300 Deluxe -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 1:08 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Remove Me Why oh why is it no one can seem to read the simple unubscribe instructions at the bottom of 90% of the emails to the list?. Time to post em ;-). Tom
Re: [Chevelle-list] Internet Scam alert Partzsurplus.com
Maybe his Internet Server went down. Do you honestly know that he is scamming? Keith - Original Message - From: Trooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 4:29 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Internet Scam alert Partzsurplus.com If any of you guys have purchased anything from a site named partzsurplus.com cancel your check immediately. The guy, going by the name Frank Cummings, put a multipage site on the net with numerous hard to find Chevelle, Camaro, Nova, and Corvette parts. He then placed adds in Chevelles.com and other sites. Over the weekend his site disappeared. I was one of the poor saps that lost money so I hope this message helps someone. Trooper
Re: [Chevelle-list] Internet Scam alert Partzsurplus.com
From Postal information that zip code is for a P.O. Box. The correct zip code would be 24210 or 24211. Also, everytime I used Abington, is was changed to Abingdon You can always spend the money and do a people search on the person. FYI - Original Message - From: Trooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 4:45 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Internet Scam alert Partzsurplus.com Do any of you guys live near Abington, VA so you can go knock on a door for me. The address I sent my money to was: Frank Cummings 16391 Wyndale Rd. Abington VA 24212 Trooper Trooper wrote: If any of you guys have purchased anything from a site named partzsurplus.com cancel your check immediately. The guy, going by the name Frank Cummings, put a multipage site on the net with numerous hard to find Chevelle, Camaro, Nova, and Corvette parts. He then placed adds in Chevelles.com and other sites. Over the weekend his site disappeared. I was one of the poor saps that lost money so I hope this message helps someone. Trooper
Re: [Chevelle-list] drive shaft
Go to www.anywho.com Type in drive shaft Oklahoma city, Ok I found 7 businesses listed Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Bill Bradley To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 7:14 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] drive shaft does anyone know of, or would recomend even a shop in or near Oklahoma City that can custom make me a drive shaft. my th350 is a little longer than my powerglide, but i dont want to cut my origional drive shaft. thanks Bill B. Edmond Oklahoma 67 Malibu ___Chevelle-list mailing list[EMAIL PROTECTED]http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-List] Can we stick to cars, please?
Go USA! God Bless our Troops! Chevrolet, Chevelle and America go hand in hand. Sorry, I just could not resist - Original Message - From: Chad P. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 11:21 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Can we stick to cars, please? you hit the nail on the head brad! Chad - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 8:23 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Can we stick to cars, please? Y'know, I get nonstop 24-hours-a-day war coverage from the networks and media, pro-war and pro-peace emails from people I know and don't know, etc. etc. etc I consider places like the Chevelle list and other car lists I'm on to be refuges from the rest of the world; places where I can put my daily life behind me and engage in a pastime that I find enjoyable and relaxing. Is it too much to ask that we leave the political sh*t at the door or move it to a more appropriate forum, please? Brad O. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] My Painter Horror story
So have you heard from the guy since?? - Original Message - From: Thomas Newell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 1:00 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] My Painter Horror story An old friend begged me to paint my Chevelle after agreeing to a price,last april i gave him a guitar and amp worth 1500, and 1000 down for supplies... he did not even pick the car up til Oct. it was suppose to be done in three weeks, it is now almost a year since i gave him most of the money and he is still not done, i went five months not hearing from this guy and i could not get a hold of him anywherethe worst part is i found out he was driving the car i think everyday, and he was driving it in the snow...the car only has 44,000 original miles and has been storered for over thirty years durning the winter. Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] P.S. gearbox ratio
I installed the 3 1/2 on my 71 Chevelle and like it. No problems. I like the new shorter steering. Before it was like you turned and turned. Now I have better turning response. Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Steve To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 7:15 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] P.S. gearbox ratio I am in the market for a power steering box for my 1968 SS and could use input on whether to buy a 3-31/2 turn or 4- 4 1/2 turn box rebuilt model. Price is the same and I think I now have a 4 turn unit. Any experienced advice on the subject would be appreciated! Steve E. 1968 SS Chevelle ACES 5494
[Chevelle-List] Fan clutch or not
My 71 Chevelle is overheating in this Bike Week traffic here in the nice warm sunny Daytona Beach. The temperature is going to 200 degrees in stop and go traffic. The engine block thermostat is working. It come on right at 180 degrees. I am thinking about changing the fan blade clutch. They come with and without the thermo unit on fan clutches. Should I get a fan clutch with or without the thermostat unit?? Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Fan clutch or not
If the stat is already a 180 which is may or may not be, I can only go down to a 160 right?? There is nothing between a 160 and a 180 stat is there?? I have been told that a 160 stat would never close and would alway be open which would cause it to over heat. The water would never stay in the radiator enough to cool? Keith - Original Message - From: rocky hill [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2003 3:40 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Fan clutch or not Keith, If 200 is all it gets to, I wouldn't be too worried about it. In stop and go, 200 is not bad at all, if it was creeping up to 215 on a regular basis I might think about changing something, if 200 is uncomfortable for you, try a lower thermostat first, a lot less expensive! Rocky --- Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My 71 Chevelle is overheating in this Bike Week traffic here in the nice warm sunny Daytona Beach. The temperature is going to 200 degrees in stop and go traffic. The engine block thermostat is working. It come on right at 180 degrees. I am thinking about changing the fan blade clutch. They come with and without the thermo unit on fan clutches. Should I get a fan clutch with or without the thermostat unit?? Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more http://taxes.yahoo.com/ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Virus alert
You did good trying to warning everyone. Now you know how to check the virus for being a hoax. Thanks Richard Keith - Original Message - From: Richard M. Pruett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 5:25 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Virus alert Sorry guys. I guess with this kind of stuff, you just have a knee-jerk reaction. I'll be more careful in the future. Rich -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Jason Boivin Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 5:09 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Virus alert Richard You have been duped. This email is a hoax. There is no virus that can delete your whole hard drive. http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/jesus-hoax.html Jason - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Battery
Well I guess I have had this problem long enough and now need help. If I do not run my car for 2 days, the battery is dead is a door nail. Something is draining the battery and I do not know where to start looking. I have disconnected the clock and the light in the glove box. The next thing is to disconnect the electric chock and the radio. After this, I just do not know what it could be. Keith Cooper
Re: [Chevelle-List] Battery
I checked to see if it was charging. It is reading 13.6 The battery is a Die Hard Gold that is less than 2 years old. I guess I can get the battery checked at Sears. Keith - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 12:12 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Battery PRETwo days is about how long the car will run with no alternator. Did you check your alt output? - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Ebay seller: Noah Performance - Problem
Yes, Ebay will assist you on this matter. You also need to go and write a commit about the problems you had with him. These commits are how the sellers and buyers patrol each others, but ebay will assist if needed. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 8:26 AM Subject: Re: Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Ebay seller: Noah Performance - Problem You might want to contact e-bay about this guy. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 8:30 AM Subject: Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Ebay seller: Noah Performance - Problem Just to update everyone: Still no response from Noah Performance (anthony piliero). This guy sells alot of stuff for Chevy and Chevelle collectors on Ebay. My advice is to stay away from him. I'm out $ 30.00 including original and return shipping costs after I returned a scratched mirror and he sent nothing back and refuses to answer my e-mails. Hopefully none of you get screwed by this guy. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Front Windshield 67 Chevelle
And never, never use the wire or the knife to ply with against the glass. You are guarantee to break it. Also if you push too hard on one side,guarantee to break it. Can a person take out the glass without breaking it, of course, you just have to be careful Keith - Original Message - From: John Nasta To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, November 29, 2002 10:04 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Front Windshield 67 Chevelle The pros use a tool that is essentially a piece of wire with a loop at each end. You feed it through it one spot (I guess anywhere you can) and then pull back forth on the loops as you work it around the perimeter. I've also had very good luck with simply using a box cutter and cutting the seal away all the way around, and pushing gently until it begins to come out. The main thing w/ this method is to spread out the force (use both hands) and don't push too hard. If it doesn't want to go, dont force it. Cut away as much of the seal as you can and use gentle pressure. John Nasta -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of rickSent: Friday, November 29, 2002 9:28 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Front Windshield 67 Chevelle Son got his first car, 67 Chevelle 4 dr. We need some advice on talking the front windshield out. I have the molding off. The windshield looks to be the original and is not loose at any spot. Any advice as how to get it out will be appreciated. Thanks, Rick ---Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).Version: 6.0.423 / Virus Database: 238 - Release Date: 11/25/02
Re: [Chevelle-List] Insurance
Jim. Where are your located? Keith - Original Message - From: Mach4 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 5:43 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Insurance OOPS - I guess I jumped into this old thread too. I think I said about the same thing last time, too. Senior moments! Jim - Original Message - From: Keith Cooper To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 7:31 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Insurance Sorry about this. I sorted my emails by subject, saw some unread posting, replied, then I saw that these were about a month old. Duh! Keith - Original Message - From: Keith Cooper To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 8:17 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Insurance Is 307.00 yearly. I am with State Farm and have full coverage so I know that it will be more, but I pay over 500.00 yearly. Also, this is blue book value for my 71 Chevelle. I have to have the car appraised to cover the real value. Now that I think about this, 500.00+ for blue book on my 71 Chevelle is too high. I need to call and ask some questions don't you think?? Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Craig Cerena Robertson To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 10:30 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Insurance What insurance does the list recommend. I'm paying 307.00 which I think too much for Collision and Comp. Craig 69SS IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here
Re: [Chevelle-List] Horn Relay Question
I have never heard of a rag joint coupler, would you explain?? Thanks Keith Cooper Happy Thanksgiving! Everyone PLEASE be careful out there. - Original Message - From: Richard Milkiewicz To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 7:57 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Horn Relay Question John, first be sure you have a good connection at the junction block. The wire you are asking about, if it is red it goes to the alternator.(BAT.) If it's black it's a ground. There seems to be some controversy as to the rag joint. We had this before. Some seem to think that a wire has to connect the 2 sides of the rag joint for the horn to work. I have never been able to prove this. Looking at the schematic the horn is grounded inside the car through the body. Some have said that tying the rag joint with a wire was the only way to get their horn to work. I think it was because they didn't have the proper ground in side the car. The spring holds the steering wheel off the canceling cam on the '66 and is part of the horn ground from the steering wheel to the mast. It's called a horn relay but if it was bad a whole lot of other things wouldn't work. Look at your schematic and you'll see all the other areas it supplies power to. Rich"66 MalibuACES # 5066 - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 5:10 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Horn Relay Question HelloI finished putting my steering column back together and put on the steering wheel. When I went to try the horn nothing happened. I tested the power coming into relay seemed ok. Then ran wire from horn to batttery plus side and they blew ok. Is it possible that relay maybe bad ? I looked in the wiring schematics for a 66 Chevelle and it shows the relay and the connection for the wire on the left but on the right it shows a wire coming off the right but its not showing as going to ground just shows it going nowhere with a connector on the end. Can you tell me what that is ?? Also does the spring in the horn button play a part in getting the horn to blow ??? Thanks in advance for any helpJohn..66 ChevellePhilly, Pa
Re: [Chevelle-List] Insurance
Is 307.00 yearly. I am with State Farm and have full coverage so I know that it will be more, but I pay over 500.00 yearly. Also, this is blue book value for my 71 Chevelle. I have to have the car appraised to cover the real value. Now that I think about this, 500.00+ for blue book on my 71 Chevelle is too high. I need to call and ask some questions don't you think?? Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Craig Cerena Robertson To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 10:30 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Insurance What insurance does the list recommend. I'm paying 307.00 which I think too much for Collision and Comp. Craig 69SS IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here
Re: [Chevelle-List] Insurance
Sorry about this. I sorted my emails by subject, saw some unread posting, replied, then I saw that these were about a month old. Duh! Keith - Original Message - From: Keith Cooper To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 8:17 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Insurance Is 307.00 yearly. I am with State Farm and have full coverage so I know that it will be more, but I pay over 500.00 yearly. Also, this is blue book value for my 71 Chevelle. I have to have the car appraised to cover the real value. Now that I think about this, 500.00+ for blue book on my 71 Chevelle is too high. I need to call and ask some questions don't you think?? Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Craig Cerena Robertson To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 10:30 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Insurance What insurance does the list recommend. I'm paying 307.00 which I think too much for Collision and Comp. Craig 69SS IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here
Re: [Chevelle-List] Happy Thanksgiving
Not that I won't take pictures, but they sell a video of the event if anyone is interested. See website http://www.turkeyrun.com/ Keith - Original Message - From: Tigergutt To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 1:40 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Happy Thanksgiving keith, If you have a digital cam and have the possibility could you please take some pictures and send me. everything chevy from 1932-2002 and willys 1940-1941 is interesting. thanks ! Kind Regards André - Original Message - From: Keith Cooper To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 7:32 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Happy Thanksgiving Dear list, Keith Cooper's Computers, Software, Internet and Keith's Cooper's Home Services has clocked out for the Holidays. We will return to work on Monday. Everyone have a great Thanksgivings. It's great being self employed and your own boss. I will be watching the list. Now I must clean the car up for the Turkey Rod Run in Daytona Beach, FL. Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Happy Thanksgiving
American cassettes wont work in a European VCR. That a bunch of S.t. Is there a way to convert an American cassette to work in a European VCRs??? - Original Message - From: Tigergutt To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 3:05 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Happy Thanksgiving American cassettes wont work in a european vcr. Kind Regards André - Original Message - From: Keith Cooper To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 8:25 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Happy Thanksgiving Not that I won't take pictures, but they sell a video of the event if anyone is interested. See website http://www.turkeyrun.com/ Keith - Original Message - From: Tigergutt To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 1:40 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Happy Thanksgiving keith, If you have a digital cam and have the possibility could you please take some pictures and send me. everything chevy from 1932-2002 and willys 1940-1941 is interesting. thanks ! Kind Regards André - Original Message - From: Keith Cooper To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 7:32 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Happy Thanksgiving Dear list, Keith Cooper's Computers, Software, Internet and Keith's Cooper's Home Services has clocked out for the Holidays. We will return to work on Monday. Everyone have a great Thanksgivings. It's great being self employed and your own boss. I will be watching the list. Now I must clean the car up for the Turkey Rod Run in Daytona Beach, FL. Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Sneaky Virus, Sneaky, Sneaky, Sneaky!
You may not believe this,but its true, I had to run the FixFlex.com program on one of my customers' computer. She would not buy an Anti-Virus program which I sell at a cheap price. She started calling me saying that this was wrong and then this other program not working. I ran the FixFlex program and the report showed she had the virus 176 times. That's right 176 cases of the virus was found. Her printer would not work. Word would not run. Defrag would not run. Scandisk would not work. After I ran the Fixflex program, everything started working great. She has purchased the Norton Anti-Virus 2002 program from me and is very happy now. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 8:53 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Sneaky Virus, Sneaky, Sneaky, Sneaky! Dale,Most likely someone out there has you in their address book and they have the w32klez virus. This virus takes the names for their address book... sends out emails from people in the addres book... and makes it appear it is from you. That is why you got an email from yourself that you didnt send. Many others will get the same message appearing to be from you everytime they connect to the internet or run a "executable" file this thing has attached itself to like MSWord or many others. Look at the end of the message in the contents for a line . "Xapparently from" ... and you may be able to tell who has the virus (i.e. they are the real senders of the message). This happened to me and I was able to pinpoint who had the virus... called them ... they didnt know they had the virus... purchased virus software... detected the virus got rid of the virus... no more fake emails from me. I would have never know if I had not r! eceived an email from me to me... which I knew I didnt send. Also, Symantic (www.syamantic.com) has a FREE w32flex virus detector and erradicator called FixFlex.com (or they can do a search on FixFlex.com). Works like a charm.I replied back on the list so if any others of you get an email from yourself that you didnt send... this is most likely the cause.Good Luck.Donnie
Re: [Chevelle-List] Euro VCR's was... Happy Thanksgiving
Dan, I just checked and your right. He still should fix, change, adjust this comment. Keith Cooper babbled on [EMAIL PROTECTED] babbled on [EMAIL PROTECTED] babbled on Robert Coyle babbled on Guess I am just being sensitive. Keith - Original Message - From: Dan McIntosh To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 10:17 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Euro VCR's was... Happy Thanksgiving Keith, I don't think it was a personal attack. All of his E-mails seem to have that in them. It's a parody of what some systems plaster to the letter when you reply to someone's E-mail. Personally I think it's hilarious... Take it easy. Dan McIntosh - Original Message - From: Keith Cooper To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 9:57 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Happy Thanksgiving "On Tue, 26 Nov 2002 20:41:35 -0500, Keith Cooper babbled on about this again:" Just what does this mean babbled on about this again Personal I take offense to this remark. I asked if a tape could be converted, that's all. If I did not know better, I would really go off about this, but I won't. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: jfg69 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 9:44 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Happy Thanksgiving On Tue, 26 Nov 2002 20:41:35 -0500, Keith Cooper babbled on about this again: American cassettes wont work in a European VCR. That a bunch of S.t.Is there a way to convert an American cassette to work in a European VCRs??? Totally different format- BUT IIRC there are vcr's that can play both. Also, there is the option to cap it and convert to VCD or AVI or MPG. In fact I have all the software loaded ready to go. ;) jerry- To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] wiring problem on a 68 malibu
My dash turn signal stays on when the ground wire is loose. They are several ground in the radiator support wiring harness. Make sure all the grounds are secure and tight. Keith - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 7:58 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] wiring problem on a 68 malibu Hello, I am currently restoring a 68 malibu, I took the radiator core support off of the frame to clean and paint, and when I reassembled the wiring back onto the support I was unsure of one wire on the horn relay. Now I have a left turn signal indicator light on the dash which comes on steady with the headlights, and the right turn signal indicator stays on steady when you signal (instead of blinking.) Does this sound like it could happen due to having a wire wrong on the horn relay, or possibly a bad ground? Any help is always appreciated. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Turkey Rod Run-Daytona
The Daytona Beach Turkey Rod Run will be next week. Is anybody coming?? If so, where will you be cruising so I can meet you. Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Season's Greeetings
I wanted to wish everyone a Happy Thanksgivings and Happy Holiday. As we close in on Thanksgiving, please be careful and safe in your travels. Most of all, be happy and cruise forever. Keith
Re: [Chevelle-List] [OT] New York no call list
I signed up for the no solicitation list and it has cut the calls. If I get a call, all I have to say is Do you know that I am on the No Solicitation List and they get off the phone fast. Keith - Original Message - From: John Nasta [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Olds Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Chevelle List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 12:31 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] [OT] New York no call list Just an FYI, the New York no call list will be updated on 1/1/03 and published on 2/1/03. If you live in New York and want to make it illegal for companies to make unsolicited sales calls to you, get your phone numbers listed on the no call list before the update. I've gotten 3 sales calls already this morning. It's unbelievable. I just signed up for the no call list. If you are on the no call list and they call you anyway, you can sue them for harassment. https://www.nynocall.com/java/res_form.html John Nasta - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Surprise from Year One
Way to go Herb. Do you have a digital camera, so you can give us a picture of your trophy. Keith - Original Message - From: Herbert Lumpp To: Chevelle List Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 7:31 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Surprise from Year One As I walked in the front door after work today, there was a box from Year One sitting there. Naturally the first thing my wife says is "Now what did you order?" "Nothing honey, I swear, what is it?" I reply. Apparently, while at the Bristol Bash I won second place in the Muscle on the Mountain drag race! That's a shock considering I was never able to makea full power run. Either way, Year One sent me a gift certificate for $100 and a cool glass trophy that lights up from underneath, and they didn't even charge me for shipping! cYa- Herb Lumpp1966 El CaminoACES 3509, MCC 528http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/
Re: [Chevelle-List] Dash for 71 chevelle
If I have read these posting correctly, I am surprised at the recommendations. We are talking about painting a DASH. People are recommending Hammer paint and Wrinkle paint on a dash. Dash and other plastic type panels need a special paint. I do not think Hammer or Wrinkle is correct paint. I painted my dash, changing it from a lime green to a tan. I used a plastic primer and then paint designed for interior plastic. Yes, you can fill holes in plastic when done correctly and lots of time and care. I may have just misunderstand the project here or there are allot of ideas which do not seem correct to me. When done correctly, you will not be able to tell if the dash is original or painted. My dash looks like it came from the factory, which it did not. People are says to paint over the wood grain panels?? I thought most wooden panel are just a contact type of stencil which is used to give you a wood grain look?? Well maybe it is just late and I did not follow this posting correctly. All I will say is, if you are painting a plastic dash, you need to used correct paint designed for this type of material. Keith - Original Message - From: John Nasta [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 9:11 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Dash for 71 chevelle I always have to laugh at people who buy an old car and then worry that it is a bit dated. John Nasta -Original Message- In fact, in that new issue of Chevelle magazine (p. 36) there's an article about restoring a Monte Carlo dash. They painted the woodgrain insert because we felt it was a bit dated (and taped it back on the dash). Roger - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Why GATEWAY Sucks
Can you tell me where this subject about Gateway computers started. I am self employed and work on computers for my living. I might be able to help you. I am trying to find out the full problem of your Gateway computer. Please send me the original email that tells what the problem is Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Craig A. Ellis [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 4:23 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Why GATEWAY Sucks Steve, Thanks for the info. You are absolutely 100% correct. And, incidentally, I read the stuff you sent me and it applies to all the card companies, not just Mastercard. The problem is that it costs $100 to return the computer which you can NOT force them to reimburse you for. Also, according to law, they do not have to accept the machine when I DO return it without an RMA. They can, and will, simply refuse it without their RMA sticker on it. Accepting their RMA means accepting that they will also only credit me for the amount of purchase LESS the cost to ship it to me in the first place! That is implicit in the paperwork they send you. So, I'm out $158 in shipping charges and have no computer!!! And by the way, it costs twice as much to ship it BACK as it did to ship it HERE! I suspect they have some sort of sweetheart deal with UPS that gives them a cut of the shipping fees (which they get in the form of reduced outbound rates). Gateway knows this stops most people from arguing about variances from what you ordered. I can dispute the charge if it has been returned but I can't escape the UPS fees to return it! And Gateway knows that they will win this argument with Mastercard every time because they are within the letter of the law. I would bet dimes to donuts that Dell does exactly the same thing. You can't beat these people - they have this drill down pat. Don't be deceived by the blah blah blah on their website. When trouble comes - even, for example, if the machine does not work, you will pay to send it back and you will pay both ways if you decide not to accept a replacment (which is usually how you feel after being jerked around by their customer service for two hours). I really only posted this to the list to help others avoid getting screwed and I apologize for blabbering on about it. The computer works, but I can't plug my scanner card in and it won't accept replacement hardware that is not Gateway. This means no more scanner pics of my purty little Chevelle and, when it breaks down, they'll be no fixing it unless I buy the parts from them. That's gonna' REALLY get my goat. C -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:owner-chevelle-list;chevelles.net]On Behalf Of Steve Allen Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 3:26 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Why OPG Sucks NoNeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am pretty sure that the credit card co's will back you. Most of the ones that I have heard of will not pay the business until the dispute is resolved. It's the law that you can withhold payment for incorrect merchandise: http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/credit/fcb.htm Among the things you can dispute is: - charges for goods and services you didn't accept or weren't delivered as agreed; Steve - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Thanks for the response!
Enough!. I declare this subject CLOSED! Now for more Chevelles... - Original Message - From: D Martinez [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 1:16 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Thanks for the response! Here Here..make them go fast and look good.Did I spell that right? - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Fan Clutch
Do you think I need to get the one with the thermal control which is like stock or the non-thermal control which will be engaged always? Keith - Original Message - From: Don Dupuis [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 11:03 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Fan Clutch I like to use a clutch fan to reduce noise. I usually use a 5 blade fan. Never had a problem. It's important to either: a) have a shroud or b)make sure the fan is relatively close to the rad to get the pull affect of air through the cores. I would try a NEW clutch. Just my 2 cents worth. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Fan Clutch
Well, the fan clutch off the 77 truck stopped the noise, but now the car overheats at idle. The car will run 200 degree if you let it sit at idle. When you get going down the road it drops to 185. I guess that I need to go buy a new fan clutch. I can buy a new clutch without or with the thermal control. Without the thermal control, the fan will run all the time. What do you think, with or without the thermal? Keith
[Chevelle-List] Stock Fan Clucth
When it comes to fan blade clutches, are there many different types. I have several clutches around the house and need to replace the one on my 71 Chevelle 350. Can I use any of the ones around my house that have come off of other Chev, and Chev Trucks? Keith
Re: [Chevelle-List] Stock Fan Clucth
Don, I did not know that. Goo?? I thought that the clutch was a mechanical device. Thanks for the information. Keith - Original Message - From: Don Dupuis [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2002 2:44 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Stock Fan Clucth There is a wax-like substance inside the clutch assembly that makes the fan spin. There is no solid mechanical contact between the fan blade and the water pump, just the friction of the shaft spinning in this goo (official technical term). When the clutches get old, this substance leaks out the front of the clutch (rad side) and causes slow fan speeds, and overheat conditions at an idle. Find the tightest one you can, as long as it isn't seized completely. It would be the best choice. Of course...your local NAPA, could probably find you a new one by proper application. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Distributor Timing
I posted this once and no one bite on it, so I thought I would try one more time. At what RPM should the timing start advancing? (900,1200,1400RPM) At what RPM should it reach when it hits Total advance? (Total advanced reached at 2000RPM??) How much total advance should I have? I am wanting to play with the weights and springs in the distributor and l am looking for some guide lines. I was going to hook up a RPM meter and the timing light to see the effects of different weights and springs. I think that my distributor is advancing way too soon.
Re: [Chevelle-List] Cruise Control Sending Unit
What part of the cruise control are you calling the sending unit?? I have never heard of a sending unit on a cruise control. You have the brake sensor, the computer, the vacuum unit and the pickup in a cruise control unit. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Crazy Rusty To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 10:46 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Cruise Control Sending Unit I have been beating my head against the wall trying to find a cruise control sending unit for my 69 Chevelle. The rumors in the wind told me that I could only use a sending unit specifically for 69 chevelles. The others wouldnt work/fit?? Does anyone know if that is true?? Crazy Rusty 1969 Chevelle www.crazyrusty.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Distributor Timing
Rich, The car is a 71 Chevelle Malibu 350 4 barrel. The motor has a small camshaft, 262H from Crane, Hooker Competition Headers, stock automatic transmission and 2.5 ratio stock rear end. I have the Edelbrock performer intake and Edelbrock 600cc carb. The ignition is a stock HEI. Present timing is set a 8 degrees. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Richard Milkiewicz To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2002 8:45 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Distributor Timing Keith, need more info. What engine, what was done to the motor? Ignition? What car? Several things affect dist. advance. Rich"66 MalibuACES # 5066 - Original Message - From: Keith Cooper To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2002 7:25 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Distributor Timing I posted this once and no one bite on it, so I thought I would try one more time. At what RPM should the timing start advancing? (900,1200,1400RPM) At what RPM should it reach when it hits Total advance? (Total advanced reached at 2000RPM??) How much total advance should I have? I am wanting to play with the weights and springs in the distributor and l am looking for some guide lines. I was going to hook up a RPM meter and the timing light to see the effects of different weights and springs. I think that my distributor is advancing way too soon.
[Chevelle-List] Distributor Spring and weights
Does anyone know at what RPM is best for the distributor weights should start advancing. I want to hook up a RPM gauge and use my timing light to adjust when the weights should start advancing the timing and how much the total advance will be. I should be able to change distributor weight springs and see at what RPM the timing starts advancing. So how do you know what is best and how does this effect gas and horsepower. Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] SBC Cam selection
Watch Out!. You can not just switch to 1.6 rockers on most heads. The pushrods will be in a bind in the hole of the head. The pushrod hole in the head has to be cut for clearance when you switch to 1.6 rockers for most heads. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Dave Studly [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 10:59 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] SBC Cam selection Brian, I'm no expert, but it almost sounds like you're splitting hairs. You mention the car being a daily driver, so I'm gonna assume you're not drag racing it much. Adding .015-inch of lift is going to be difficult to feel in the seat of your pants. Have you thought about switching to 1.6 rockers instead? If you have .440 lift now with stock (1.5) rockers, swapping to 1.6 rockers will take you up to .469 lift ( (.440 / 1.5) * 1.6). This also adds a few degrees of duration. A *much* easier swap than a cam. I dont think you'll really want a cam with more than .470 lift and ~225 degrees duration (@ .050) with a stock converter. You should be able to get away with stock valve springs in all of these cases. Don't quote me on that last part, though. You have a pretty well-matched combo for low-mid torque. Carb tuning (using a dragstrip or dyno to verify your results) can make a noticeable difference in power and mileage if you haven't done so. It's not glorious like a new cam, but it can be just as rewarding in the end. As an aside, I was just at the dragstrip this past sunday and a friend was there with his 90's LT-1 Roadmaster station wagon. He upgraded the exhaust which killed the good low-end torque he had (motor is stock, except for slightly modded air box). To remedy that, he changed the torque converter to one from a S-10 application (he estimated 2000-2100 stall, versus 1200-1300 stock -- no tach to truly verify these numbers.) and picked up .8 seconds in his quarter mile time and +5 MPH (it was also only in the high 40s, low 50s temperature-wise). If you're not familiar with quarter mile times, that's a *big* improvement. Getting the engine up into it's torque band quicker makes all the difference in the world. As another personal aside, I ran my quickest and fastest on Sunday with my 406-powered '70 -- 12.70 @ 107. I was pretty happy about that. If there's one good thing about Ohio, it's low ETs in October! :-) Torque rules! -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:owner-chevelle-list;chevelles.net]On Behalf Of Brian Zack Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 2:28 PM To: Chevelle List (E-mail) Subject: [Chevelle-List] SBC Cam selection What is the largest cam any of you are running in a daily driver with a small block 350. I have a '70 Chevelle Malibu with a 350 4-bolt main, cast pistons, 9:1 compression stock heads, edlebrock performer manifold edlebrock 600 cfm carb, 1 5/8 headers, and dual 2 exhaust. It also has the stock stall converter and I think either 2:73 ot 3:07 gears ( I have to verify that) Right now I have a crane energizer 266H which is 266 duration and .440 lift. I am going to be changing to a larger cam and was wondering what max. size anyone might recommend. I was thinking of of the crane energizer w/ .467 lift or the crane energizer with .454 lift. But, I dont think the smaller one would give me that much of a difference. I think I would have to change my springs though and probably the converter. Has anyone used a larger cam and not upped the converter? I would assume it would probably hurt mileage and not have that great of low speed torque. Any recommendations? Brian Zack '70 Chevelle Malibu mailto:brianz;dpsabq.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] SBC Cam selection
I ran the 266/272 on a special centerline of 110. I then had the same cam on 108 C/L. To make a long story short, I was given a motor with the 262H cam on 112 centerline camshaft.All these grinds are from Crane Cams. The 262H has performed the best. I have same motor just forged pistons and a 2.50 or 2.73 read ratio. The larger cams did not run better because I needed to make other changes to the motor, which I did not and did not want to. I believe the real problem was the 2.5 rear ratio, poor heads( stock), converter in transmission (automatic). I would not go bigger on the cam unless you are ready to do other work and money. Bigger cams do not keep making the car go faster. Everything must work together to make it happen. I worked in the Crane Engineering dept. for many years, but still made the wrong camshaft selection on my car. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Brian Zack [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle List (E-mail) [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 2:28 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] SBC Cam selection What is the largest cam any of you are running in a daily driver with a small block 350. I have a '70 Chevelle Malibu with a 350 4-bolt main, cast pistons, 9:1 compression stock heads, edlebrock performer manifold edlebrock 600 cfm carb, 1 5/8 headers, and dual 2 exhaust. It also has the stock stall converter and I think either 2:73 ot 3:07 gears ( I have to verify that) Right now I have a crane energizer 266H which is 266 duration and .440 lift. I am going to be changing to a larger cam and was wondering what max. size anyone might recommend. I was thinking of of the crane energizer w/ .467 lift or the crane energizer with .454 lift. But, I dont think the smaller one would give me that much of a difference. I think I would have to change my springs though and probably the converter. Has anyone used a larger cam and not upped the converter? I would assume it would probably hurt mileage and not have that great of low speed torque. Any recommendations? Brian Zack '70 Chevelle Malibu mailto:brianz;dpsabq.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] 68 Camaro
Rocky + Chad + maybe a beer = BIG BOMB - Original Message - From: rocky hill [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2002 9:05 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 68 Camaro Please don't pull that chain. Rocky Hill --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: CHAD? __ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Stereo problem solved...
Herbert, That's was a good one. Thanks for getting back with us. Did you have the original ground which goes from the back of one of the heads to the firewall? As a standard, aren't there three different points where a ground should go? Does anyone know? Hood to firewall, firewall to block, block to battery? Also, could you make your default email text larger. The standard is 12. I am not that old and find it hard to read your posting. I do not want to miss anything. Thanks Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Herbert Lumpp To: Chevelle List Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 10:25 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Stereo problem solved... I thought I would let you all know I fixed the "thump" I was getting through the woofers when the engine coolingfans kicked on. I originally had the amps getting both +12v and ground directly off the battery. Yesterday,just out of curiosity, I ran a heavy gauge ground strap from the battery to the body and ran the amp grounds toa different point on the body. I started the engine and let it run until the fans kicked on, and no more thump! I don't know the reason or theory behind moving the ground, but apparently it works. Now I can return that $94 capacitor I don't need. : ) cYa- Herb Lumpp1966 El CaminoACES 3509, MCC 528http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/
Re: [Chevelle-List] Ground Up follows trend
My .02 cents says advertising one price and sell at a higher price by anyone, any company is call Bait and Switch. This is illegal and against the law. Keith - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 9:09 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Ground Up follows trend I will second what Tom says. Nino and Ken for the guys on this list. As you are well aware, good help is hard to find these days. This industry is no exception. Ground Up are good people and will do whatever it takes to make sure their customers are taken care of and taken care of right. Too bad you got one of the flunkies. So as Tom said next time you order from Ground Up ASK for Nino or Ken... if they arent available hang up and call back. Yeah, I know it's a pain in the butt and a heck of a way to have to get your parts but in the long runIt will be worth the extra effort. My .02.Donnie Gates
Re: [Chevelle-List] Blinkers blink too fast.
There are two flasher units. The one at the fuse panel is for the emergency flasher. The other is on top of the steering column and works the turn signals. A HD Flasher unit on the turn signals will make them flash very fast. The HD is use for towing and is needed for the extra pull on the circuit and length of the wire for a trailer. I have put an HD unit on my emergency flasher unit on the fuse panel. Now when I am on the side of the road, the flasher blink fast, which is great for emergency flashing. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Mark Weber To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 11:01 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Blinkers blink too fast. Hi. Theturn signals on my 71 SS blink to fast, probably 2 or 3 times per second. How do I fix that? It had an HD flasher in it.When I pull the flasher unit out of the fuse box it does not affect the blink rate. I would think with the capacitor out it would cause an open circuit and the blinker would not blink at all, but mine still keeps blinking fast. The guy at the parts store told me to slow it down I need a HD flasher, so I put a new one of them in. Did not change anything. Any ideas of what might be going on? Mark, 71 SS.
Re: [Chevelle-List] Blinkers blink too fast.
Yes you can. That is what I did. That is why I have fast flasher on the emergencies now Keith - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 10:41 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Blinkers blink too fast. i even believe you can switch the two flashers to perform that test . larry (z)
Re: [Chevelle-List] Timing Help
I am not sure if I understood you. Did you check the timing with the weight off?? Anyway here goes 1) The springs and the weights may have been modified. 2) At 2000 the weights could be advancing. If very light springs are being used on the weights 3) Yes the harmonic balancer could be bad. To check the harmonic balancer, get the piston at TDC on #1, the harmonic balancer mark should be at 0(zero). If it is not then the outer ring on the balancer has slipped. Look to see how many degrees it is off zero mark, subtract this from your timing reading and this is your real timing.I would replace the balancer if it checked bad. - Original Message - From: Gary Treible [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 10:27 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Timing Help Maybe somebody can help me figure this out. I've got a '70 Chevelle with a 327 engine supposedly from a '67 Corvette (based on block numbers). The car is new to me so I've been doing lots of maintenance. Yesterday was ignition day. The car got new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, points, and condenser. I did this not just because the parts were old, but I was getting some knocking (even with a bottle of 104 in the tank), and the car was hard starting, like 'rumph' then stop while cranking. I concluded this was probably the result of having too much advance, so it was my plan to deal with that once everything was replaced. After getting all the new parts installed, I disconnected the vacuum advance and plugged the tap at the carb, and set the dwell at 30 degrees. It moves less than 2 degrees from idle to high RPM, so it seems alright. Now this is the thing I can't explain. I have an advance timing light (with the knob). I checked the timing at curb idle with the vacuum advance disabled, and found that it was running at 38 degrees! I definitely was on cylinder #1 (front driver's side bank), and the wires are all hooked up according the 'normal' factory diagram. I was afraid that there wouldn't be enough adjustment to get back to just a few degrees, buy we tried that, and got as low as 10 degrees, but the car would hardly run. Also, after you raced the engine, it wouldn't go right back to idle, but would hang up a high RPM and eventually drop to idle. To make a long story short, we set the timing back to where it was, and backed off 5 degrees. This is probably near perfect as I now just get an occasional knock under hard acceleration, and the starting problem has gone away. I'm frustrated though because the 'science' doesn't seem to be working. The plan was to verify about 4 to 6 degrees at curb idle, and with the springs off the centrifugal advance, at about 2000 RPM (or so) check for 36-38 degrees of total advance. The centrifugal advance parts look ok, and I operated them by hand. Could they be bad? Also, the harmonic balancer is keyed to the crank shaft right? It can't be put on wrong (or can it?). Any input is appreciated. Gary - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] car dollies
The best way in my opinion is to use a car trailer. It is easier to work with and tows better. Keith - Original Message - From: Dan McIntosh To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 9:40 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] car dollies Howdy, I'm going Thursday to bring home my 64 Impala, and will be using a car dollie. What is the general consensus on the correct way to use it. Front or rear wheels on ground, if rear wheels, disconnect driveshaft or not? If front wheels, steering wheel locked or unlocked? I will be traveling about 200 miles, all but about 2 of these miles will be highway. I've never done this before, and would appreciate any advice. Thanks a bunch. Take it easy. Dan McIntosh64 Impala SS65 Malibu
Re: [Chevelle-List] Blower relay
The hog blower works from a fuse by the fan relay in the engine compartment by the firewall and heater box Keith - Original Message - From: Brian Zack [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 11:15 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Blower relay Also, I didn't have time last night to check it out, but this morning the fan worked and wasn't turning on and off. But, the High still wasn't working. Aren't electrical bugs fun? Brian Zack '70 Chevelle Malibu mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: Craig A. Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 8:49 AM To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Blower relay When I thought my had failed and started to tear into replacing the motor, I found the wire had simply worked loose...plugged it back in and now I'm sending the new motor back to NPD. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Brian Zack Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 10:18 AM To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Blower relay Thanks Doug and Keith. That gives me some things to go through and check. Much appreciated. Brian Zack '70 Chevelle Malibu mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: gnomezone [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 6:49 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Blower relay Now that you say the hi blower speed stopped working, that definetly is a blower motor symptom. To much resistance in the orange power wire. Doug --- Brian Zack [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'll check the motor too. I'm also going to check the connections behind the dash tonight too and see if they are dirty or not. Also, the high speed stopped working about a week ago. I don't know if that is in a switch or now that you mention the blower motor it could be in there. I kinda thought it might have been that relay on the firewall, but wasn't sure. Brian Zack '70 Chevelle Malibu mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: gnomezone [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 4:14 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Blower relay On my 72, its on the firewall between the dizzy and the heater core. It got 3 wires and one is a thick orange one. It could also be your blower motor seizing and causing the relay to overheat and shutting off. Doug --- Brian Zack [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone know where the blower relay is locate on a '70 Chevelle? (I'm at work and don't have access to my books) The blower on my a/c and heater is kicking in and out and I wanted to see if I could check it out before I went home. Don't know if it is the relay or a bad ground or dirty contacts. TIA Brian Zack '70 Chevelle Malibu mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Do you Yahoo!? New DSL Internet Access from SBC Yahoo! http://sbc.yahoo.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Do you Yahoo!? New DSL Internet Access from SBC Yahoo! http://sbc.yahoo.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Blower relay
The High blow is run off a special fuse located by the blower relay. One thing that happens is the connector for the relay will sometimes overheat break apart causing shorts etc.. Keith - Original Message - From: Brian Zack [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 6:50 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Blower relay I'll check the motor too. I'm also going to check the connections behind the dash tonight too and see if they are dirty or not. Also, the high speed stopped working about a week ago. I don't know if that is in a switch or now that you mention the blower motor it could be in there. I kinda thought it might have been that relay on the firewall, but wasn't sure. Brian Zack '70 Chevelle Malibu mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: gnomezone [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 4:14 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Blower relay On my 72, its on the firewall between the dizzy and the heater core. It got 3 wires and one is a thick orange one. It could also be your blower motor seizing and causing the relay to overheat and shutting off. Doug --- Brian Zack [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone know where the blower relay is locate on a '70 Chevelle? (I'm at work and don't have access to my books) The blower on my a/c and heater is kicking in and out and I wanted to see if I could check it out before I went home. Don't know if it is the relay or a bad ground or dirty contacts. TIA Brian Zack '70 Chevelle Malibu mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Do you Yahoo!? New DSL Internet Access from SBC Yahoo! http://sbc.yahoo.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Braided hose
Vernon, I worked for Russell which also sells the hose covers and the other types of Race style braided hoses. Russell gave me all the hoses for my 71 Chevelle. I found that the hoseswere scratching the paint. I also was more than tried of getting stuck with the braid on the cut ends as I was installing. The racer type of hoses looked better, but most cars I have seen look good when you first install, then look bad over time. Dirt gets inside the braid and is hard to clean. The braid also looses that nice shine it had when new. The hose covers are the cheeses things I have ever seen. They are made in China. All braided hose company are selling the same ones, just under different company names. This is the hose covers only. The other type of braided hoses are purchases from somewhere else. Sorry Russell but. Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kelly C. Hanna To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 11:23 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Braided hose dunno Vernon,Everytime I've seen these hose covers, they just don't look very good. I doubt the problem is in your installation,more than likely just a cheese product. We just got back from Keller's in Dallas and we saw a 70 SS with the braided hoses...he told us that he wished he'd never put them on as he hates the fit and wasn't happy with the look. I have to admit, it wasn't as nice looking as the stock hoses. Kelly Jana Hanna HannaWoodworks ClassicChevyCountry
Re: [Chevelle-List] Braided hose
To all, RussellBraided brake lines are a very good product. I would highly recommend them to everyone. Replacing the small rubber brake line hoses which go to the calipers and the drums, will improve your braking. I like the way the brakes feel. Everyone I know that has installed these braided brakes line says you can feel the difference. I like them also. Just thought I should say something good about Russell since I did work for them. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Keith Cooper To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 9:46 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Braided hose Vernon, I worked for Russell which also sells the hose covers and the other types of Race style braided hoses. Russell gave me all the hoses for my 71 Chevelle. I found that the hoseswere scratching the paint. I also was more than tried of getting stuck with the braid on the cut ends as I was installing. The racer type of hoses looked better, but most cars I have seen look good when you first install, then look bad over time. Dirt gets inside the braid and is hard to clean. The braid also looses that nice shine it had when new. The hose covers are the cheeses things I have ever seen. They are made in China. All braided hose company are selling the same ones, just under different company names. This is the hose covers only. The other type of braided hoses are purchases from somewhere else. Sorry Russell but. Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kelly C. Hanna To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 11:23 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Braided hose dunno Vernon,Everytime I've seen these hose covers, they just don't look very good. I doubt the problem is in your installation,more than likely just a cheese product. We just got back from Keller's in Dallas and we saw a 70 SS with the braided hoses...he told us that he wished he'd never put them on as he hates the fit and wasn't happy with the look. I have to admit, it wasn't as nice looking as the stock hoses. Kelly Jana Hanna HannaWoodworks ClassicChevyCountry
Re: [Chevelle-List] Air condition
Can you tell us more. What A/C parts are you wanting to install?? Keith - Original Message - From: Tigergutt To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 9:50 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Air condition Hi, Does somebody know if AC from a 1972 Chevelle will fit a 1968 model ? Thanks ! Kind Regards André - Original Message - From: vmckague To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 12:48 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Brained Hose part 2 Thanks for the info guys. Am glad to see it'sjusti'sntme doing the install jobthe wrong way.I was going to spend today putting the rest of them on but believe I'll spend it taking them off. I might keep the hose clamp covers as they work fine andIMO look better than hose clamps. At least that way it won't be a total loss. Vernon
Re: [Chevelle-List] Dash Lights out
I would think that the problem is the light switch itself since the fuse blows when you adjust the dimmer switch. Keith - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 4:55 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Dash Lights out Hey guys Need a little help. The dash lights in my 70 keep blowing the fuse out and I cannot locate the source of the problem. It seems as to happen when the dimmer switch is turned near where the dash lights would be the brightest. Any ideas??? I need to get this fixed before I go down to Maryland this friday night with it. Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Does anyone elses car want to die?
They know when you are mad at them. They also call out for special attention sometimes. My advise is to love her more and she will come around. Keith C. Cooper - Original Message - From: Josh Campbell To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 7:02 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Does anyone elses car want to die? Ok now that I have your attention. Answer me, is it just me or does my car just want to die? I fought the thing to get it back togather Monday went to fire it up hit the brake pedal and the dang thing went to the floor. Line broke. This isn't the first time I have lost brakes in this car, 3 times while driving and now twice sitting. But not just that when it got wrecked nothing wants to work right, stupid thing now has a bug that it just loves to blow the ignition fuse left and right, never did that before. not to mention when you do hit the key sometimes it starts and sometimes absolutly nothing! I think there is a loose wire to the solinoid. I hope, I hate wiring. I think she is trying to tell me she wants the frame off, I 'm just too stubborn to listen I WANT TO DRIVE BEFORE THE STUPID SUMMER IS OUT!! Anyway had to vent, its been in me for a little bit. Josh 66SS396 Do You Yahoo!?HotJobs, a Yahoo! service - Search Thousands of New Jobs
Re: [Chevelle-List] Solid or Hydrolic lifters?
I noticed if I pushed down on the pushrod, the lifter would press down about a half inch or so. You make it sound like it was easy for you to depress the Hyd lifter. If it WAS easy to push down, then the lifters are no good for Hyd lifters. If the bottom of the lifters are dished inward, then the lifter are bad and so is the camshaft. Put a straight edge on the bottom of the lifter, it should be high in the middle. It should be hard to depress a Hyd lifter. Keith - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 6:53 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Solid or Hydrolic lifters? I took off the intake on my chevelle, because I have pretty much nothing else to check that would be messed up. What Im asking is how would I check them to see if they are bad or not, and how to check if they are solid or not. I noticed if I pushed down on the pushrod, the lifter would press down about a half inch or so. Thanks--Tim1966 Chevelle
Re: [Chevelle-List] What kind of car is this???
I sent the picture to a Studebaker club and here is his reply. Yes it is. It is anywhere from a '53 to 56 Hardtop or "K" body, my guess would be a '53 Commander, but without seeing the front it and with no hub caps this is a guess. But it is definitely a Studebaker. Mark - Original Message - From: Chad Playso To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 8:35 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] What kind of car is this??? Hi everyone, a friend of mine by the name Carol wants me to find out what kind of car it is, and I have looked all through ebay and cannot find out what kind of car it is, so if you could help, that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Re: [Chevelle-List] electrical problem
instantly knew it was right as I could hear the alternator charging. 13.5 volts at the battery. Rock steady. Not trying to be funny here, but how did you hear it charging? Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Jason Boivin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 11:23 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] electrical problem Dale, Thanks. I looked at your picture and my wires are not the same color but I just fliped the two wires from the alternator to the regulator. The picture doesnt show which is which so I had a 50/50 chance to get it right and when I flipped them started the car and instantly knew it was right as I could hear the alternator charging. 13.5 volts at the battery. Rock steady. I think the previous owner must have tried to fix it because when I rebuilt that section I copied it exactely as it was on the car. I even copied the length and for some reason it is like three feet longer than I need. When I start to detail the engine compartment I will shorten them up to a more reasonable length. But again thanks for the help. Jason - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Car Poll...Favorite Year?
You just got here, but OK your cancelled. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 7:39 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Car Poll...Favorite Year? can someone please cancel me off this list
Re: [Chevelle-List] nevermind
That was unnecessary blocking on the first lap. I am sure Rusty will say that it was not his fault. Someone could have been killed. That was just pure stupidness. Keith - Original Message - From: Kelly C. Hanna To: Chevelle List ; Elky List ; Elky Malibu ; MetroMuscle Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 2:05 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] nevermind I just saw the replay...looks like Rusty turned in front of Park and pinned him up against the wall. Kelly Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] Help find color match on this chevelle?
Here is some information I found about the 1967 Chevrolet
colors.
Fifteen single tone exterior colors were shared by the
Impala, Malibu, and Camaro: Tuxedo Black, Ermine White, Nantucket Blue,
Deepwater Blue, Marina Blue, Granada Gold, Mountain Green, Emerald Turquoise,
Tahoe Turquoise, Royal Plum, Madeira Maroon, Bolero Red, Sierra Fawn, Capri
Cream, and Butternut Yellow. Only the '67 Impala had the two-tone paint option.
This option--$15.68 to $15.80, depending on the excise taxwas ordered on 88,594
Impala (Biscayne, Bel Air, and Caprice) vehicles. The eight two-tone colors (the
top color is listed first): Ermine White/Nantucket Blue, Nantucket Blue/Ermine
White, Nantucket Blue/Deepwater Blue, Granada Gold/Capri Cream, Tahoe
Turquoise/Ermine White, and Sierra Fawn/Capri Cream. The two-tone color option
lasted the entire production run of the Impala Super Sport, 1961-1969. Black,
bright blue, red, gold, and parchment interior trim colors were available. Soft
tops came in white, black, or medium blue; vinyl tops in black or light fawn.
The 1967 Chevelle Malibu shared single-tone exterior, soft
top and vinyl top colors with the Impala and the Camaro. There was a different
choice of interior trim colors: bright blue, blue, red, black, turquoise, and
gold for the standard and for the bucket seats. Two-tone paint was offered for
the "regular" Malibu.
Keith Cooper
- Original Message -
From:
Chad
Playso
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2002 3:25
PM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] Help find color
match on this chevelle?
Hi,
My dad had 2 Chevelle ('67) SS's, and he wants to find
out the color of one of them, which I think was granada gold. Heres a
photo (not his chevelle, but its a color match with his old one).
http://www.dalesplace.com/images/chevelle_shows/aces2000/p171.jpg
I think its granada gold, could it be that color?
thanks.
Re: [Chevelle-List] State inspection? Correction
Come to the good life, come to Florida. No inspection here. Sun and fun, but just a little hot right now. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Robert Coyle To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2002 12:32 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] State inspection? Correction Yep were getting regulated to death out here in Nevada they smog 68 thru present 67 and older are not smoged anymore! another way for the state to make 28 bucks per vehicle what a rip! Bob "Youngblood, Skip (TK at Alcoa)" wrote: one shop here requires correct motor and manifolds with down tubesSkip 68SCBB -Original Message- From: Kelly C. Hanna [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2002 7:01 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] State inspection? Correction What does a steering wheel have to do with a state inspection anyway? This just sounds like another ploy by some states to make the hobby go away. I was stationed in Texas(love the state) back in the early '60's and I had a '49 Olds. If they had required inspections back then they wouldn't have let me put air in the tires, let alone put it on the road to drive.I was looking forward to getting away from all this nonsense since both my cars will not be 2-24 years old after January, but if they are still gonna check the air cleaner and steering wheel and look for the cat-converter on my 78, I'll just buy the damn stickers.I hate the fact that they are doing this crapnext thing you know they'll be checking the 68-72's for the correct motor and exhaust. Bastards. Kelly Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] Restoring Problem, Transmission Bad.
I know that this may not help, but. I had a stock transmission in my 71 Chevelle and broke the ears from the pump when I put the torque converter on. DUMB DUMB mistake which I knew not to do, but... I went to a local transmission shop which replaced the pump for under 60.00. Again, I do not know if this is the same pump part you are speaking of and not the same type of transmission, but maybe the repair cost won't be as bad as you think. Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Mark Weber To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 5:47 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Restoring Problem, Transmission Bad. I need some opinion from some other people about a problem I have with the transmission in my 71 BBC SS I am restoring. The background: Bought rebuilt TH700r4 that was built to stand high horsepower and torque during summer of 2001, installed into frame and it sat for about 1 year. Did not get the body on the frame until spring 2002, and did not get the car on drivable (hood on, aligned, insured etc) until June 2002. With only 150 miles on the car, the torque converter blew up during a 2 - 3 shift last Fridayand pumped metal through the trans.During the previous 150 miles, the shifts were pretty soft. It has shift kits and many other components that were supposed to give it a good firm shift. A trans shop I talked to this week said a weak pump would cause low pressure and mushy shifts. I suspect that was a problem too. The problem: The company I bought it from says that's too bad. The warrantee was 6 months and they have to stick to this. They offered torebuild it and put parts in for cost and go easy on the labor charges if I ship it to them, 2000 miles away. I am not an unreasonable person. I halfway understand where they are coming from with having to draw a line somewhere. Does anybody else have a similar experience with a problem that showed up later due to a long restoration time period? Or, is this just bad luck and that's the way it is? I don't think I got anything in writing about starting the warrantee once the car is drivable. I will check my email box at work tomorrow though, maybe there is somethingthere. I have not talked to the owner of the place yet. But the guy I did talk to supposedly got his instructions from the owner. Guess I need to whine to somebody. Bummed because I can see the first150 miles I put on the car ending upcosting $6.67per milefor transmission repairalone :( Does anybody have any advise? Thanks for listening. Mark 71 SS
Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding?
Mister questions, have you tried, http://www.chevelles.com/tools/ftl1.html Look, get off your lazy a... and use that computer. The Internet is full of information. You just want to sit there and ask questions because your too lazy. If your too lazy to looked up information, I doubt you will remember 1/4th of any information that has been given here from the list. 1) DO A SEARCH ON WELDERS. 2) GO TO WWW.CHEVELLES.COM 3) GET OFF THE COMPUTER AND GO PLAY WITH SOME FRIENDS, THAT IF YOU HAVE ANY. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Chad Playso [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 9:44 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? Well, is there a specific welder you should use when welding this (panel, frame, etc...) for the strongest bond? - Original Message - From: aaw1255 [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 12:13 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Which is best kind of welding? Your welding terminology is a bit off. A MIG(metal inert gas) welder is an arc welder, as it uses an arc to weld. It is also known as a GMAW, gas metal arc welder. I believe you are refering to the common stick SMAW(shielded metal arc welding) welder. TIG(tungsten inert gas) welding, another popular form of welding, is also an arc welding process, also known as GTAW, gas tungsten arc welding. Another common type is FCAW, flux cored arc welding. Case in point, there are many types of arc welders and types of welding,(arc, gas, electron beam, laser, resistance spot welding, projection, etc) I just thought I should point out that the most common types that people use(not including oxygen/acetylene) are all arc welders as they use an arc to weld. (Sorry, you said, correct me if I am wrong -- The whole arc welding thing is one of my pet peeves) Aaron Weaver 67 SS 396 = Original Message From [EMAIL PROTECTED] = I've been reading about different kinds of welders, and I was wondering, which is the best kind to use? To me, it seems like MIG welders are the best for body panels, and ARC welders are good for everything else. Correct me if I am wrong. Also, I cannot find the info to how THICK the metal is for the panals as I've heard that when you weld, the metal you weld is supposed to be as thick as the metal on the body. So how thick is a...1970 Body Panel? Bye Bye, Chad - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] too many questions???
I counted 176 posting by Chad. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 8:47 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] too many questions??? Chad, I wasn't pointing fingers. I've been on this list since it started years ago. This is by no means a 'new' situation. Although I do have 163 emails from you since 6/25. :-) That is quite a few. Please feel free to ask questions and participate. Just understand that many of us are on multiple email lists and a lot of us are pretty motivated to do the legwork and research to learn as much as we can. And most of us will expect others to do the same. take care, and enjoy! Chad Playso wrote: Sorry guys, I didn't know it was bothering you...expessically bothering you THAT much...I'll lay off...sorry... Sincerely, Chad - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 6:42 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. Jeff, the issue isn't getting answers on this list without buying a magazine. The issue is that sometimes we sometimes get a TON of questions from the same guy. It's obvious that the person doesn't make any effort to learn on his/her own. Hence, it's very easy to get frustrated with answering really easy questions over and over when the answers are often covered in most any magazine on the newstand. Ask away, just don't abuse it. :-)))This is a great list, and a great bunch of people. Not perfect, but a great bunch anyway. I think Chad answered your questions also, so I won't rehash. BTW: nice car! take care, Jeff Fischer wrote: I didn't know these terms either and was also curious. Can't I get an answer here without being told to go buy a magazine? -- Jeff Fischer Lake Elmo, MN '71 Chevelle SS, 454, 4 spd http://home.attbi.com/~addss/chevelle.html At 11:15 PM 7/21/2002 -0700, you wrote: Chad, I'm not normally one to give people a hard time, especially when a person is trying to learn about something I love - cars. But come on, take some of your allowance and go buy a Car Craft or Hot Rod magazine. The answer to almost every question you've asked could have been found in one of those magazines. A subscription is only $9.95... cYa- Herb Lumpp 1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9 ACES 3509, MCC 528 http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/ - Original Message - From: Chad Playso [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2002 7:54 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale. Also - what is the term tubbed and backhalved? See ya, Chad - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com and my For Sale page at http://www.ProStreetCar.com/classifieds.html Tremec Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle membership #178 (Gold) - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com and my For Sale page at http://www.ProStreetCar.com/classifieds.html Tremec Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle membership #178 (Gold) - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Stop Static
Not to change the subject to cell phone, but I also think that talk and drive should be stopped. Kelly, I still wonder if this is how your car got reared. I hear of another story about someone getting hit in the rear by a car going 40 mph. The guy did not know what happened, until he came to in the ambulance. People told him that the person that hit him was on a cell phone. Keith - Original Message - From: Kelly C. Hanna To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 8:01 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Stop Static Besides the gas can thing, STOP TALKIN ON YOUR CELL PHONE WHEN FILLIN UP!!! Speakin' of cells, I wish they'd make it illegal to talk and drive...it causes many a folk not to have a brain for payin attention to the road.Kelly Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] Driving/Car Saftey
A young man was sitting at the dinner table with his daddy having a conversation when the young man told his dad how dumb he was. The young man's dad slowly turned to his son and asked, If I am so dumb now at my age, at just want age is it that you will start getting dumb too? Just some story I heard Keith - Original Message - From: Richard M. Pruett To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 4:11 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Driving/Car Saftey To you statement "When I was your age I knew everything and I was invincible, but now that I am older I look back and say I wish I listened to my dad..." I must say When I was 16, my father was the dumbest man on Earth; I can't believe how much smarter he has gotten every year since then! -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Capt CrunchSent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 2:11 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Driving/Car Saftey Yeah Chad... Sorry, I figured you would reply on this one, but believe me if everyone over the age of 25 voted, I think a large number would agree. I mean just the maturaty level jump is huge between 16 and 18 is huge. It happens again at 21 and it seems about your mid twenties most people have grown up at least in reguards to more serious matters. When I was your age I knew everything and I was invincable, but now that I am older I look back and say I wish I listened to my dad... or I wish I did this instead of this. Wait till you hit your mid twenties... heck I'm afraid of what I'll be saying when I'm forty or fifty. I know how you feel and you can hardly wait to drive, but I know I did some plain flat dumb things at that age and I see even worse stuff then that everyday from young drivers. Obviously not all young drivers do stupid stuff, but I know the statistics show most young drivers get into more accidents and more tickets then any other age group. I just finally emerged from the under 25 bracket and wow did my insurance drop. Reality would maybe say 16-18 yr olds can only drive during such hours or on such roads, much like when you get a permit for a motorcycle. I'm sure you will be at least a smart drive Chad as you won't want to bang up a Chevelle or mustang or whatever, but most kids don't have that pride in their car. Also driving like any skill will get better as you do it more. I think we all made some young and dumb blunders in our day. Don't feel bad Chad... I don't pick on young driver's other then that. I'm the same way with DWI's. Just way too loose of rules. There are just too many people who shouldn't be driving. Some elder drivers scare me as well. Some of them can barely walk, none the less hit the brakes if a kid was to dart in front of them. Then there are just the unskilled. I was visiting my mom last weekend and she in reality can't back up a car unless she goes perfectly straight. She can't parrell park. She can't see very well at night. I'm sorry to say, she shouldn't be driving with full privilages. If a guy operating a crane or a tractor was like that...they would be fired. Overall... most people today think it is their right to drive a car, instead of the privilage that it is. Dave also mentions some very good points as well. Mikey - Original Message - From: Chad Playso Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 12:37 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Driving/Car Saftey dude - thats offensive! im 15 and i just CANNOT wait till i drive when im 16 - and then now you say that you want the driving age to be 18! how did you feel when u started driving? - Original Message - From: Capt Crunch To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 12:50 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Driving/Car Saftey How about the fact that they pretty much give driver's licenses away in a box of Cracker Jacks these days. I work about a mile from a driver's exam station and it is easy to find, but the number of brain dead morons, lazy people who don't want to take the energy to look at a map (or the road for signs for that matter),or people who can't speak english asking for it is unreal. I say "hey... if you can't find the driver's exam station you already fail map reading, trip preperation, and sign reading. You fail." IMO I would raise the driving age for lic. to 18 and keep permits or restricted lic. at 16. And make a real driving test to pass. I mean
Re: [Chevelle-List] Stop Static
Thanks Richard for this information. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Richard M. Pruett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2002 10:51 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Stop Static Make sure all of the women in your life get this! Stop Static Bob Renkes of Petroleum Equipment Institute is working on a campaign to try and make people aware of fires as a result of static at gas pumps. His company has researched 150 cases of these fires. His results were very surprising: 1) Out of 150 cases, almost all of them were women. 2) Almost all cases involved the person getting back in their vehicle while the nozzle was still pumping gas, when finished and they went back to pull the nozzle out the fire started, as a result of static. 3) Most had on rubber-soled shoes. 4) Most men never get back in their vehicle until completely finished. This is why they are seldom involved in these types of fires. 5) Don't ever use cell phones when pumping gas 6) It is the vapors that come out of the gas that cause the fire, when connected with static charges. 7) There were 29 fires where the vehicle was reentered and the nozzle was touched during refueling from a variety of makes and models. Some resulting in extensive damage to the vehicle, to the station, and to the customer. 8) Seventeen fires that occurred before, during or immediately after the gas cap was removed and before fueling began. Mr. Renkes stresses to NEVER get back into your vehicle while filling it with gas. If you absolutely HAVE to get in your vehicle while the gas is pumping, make sure you get out, close the door TOUCHING THE METAL, before you ever pull the nozzle out. This way the static from your body will be discharged before you ever remove the nozzle. As I mentioned earlier, The Petroleum Equipment Institute, along with several other companies now, are really trying to make the public aware of this danger. You can find out more information by going to http://www.pei.org. Once here, click in the center of the screen where it says Stop Static. I ask you to please send this information to ALL your family and friends, especially those who have kids in the car with them while pumping gas. If this were to happen to them, they may not be able to get the children out in time. Stop Static - a safety campaign http://www.pei.org/static/index.htm - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] sticking lifters
If you know for sure that the lifter is sticking, then the Trans fluid should help. If the problem is a noisy lifter, then nothing will work. You will have to replace the lifters.There is a difference between a sticky lifter and noisy lifter. It is not that hard to replace the lifters. If you do replace, use lots, and lots of moly lube on the lifters and put as much as you can on the cam lobes. You do not want the new lifters wearing out the cam lobes on restart. After breaking in new lifters, change the oil soon. I hate bad lifters. I had noisy lifters in my cars for years, but no more. Keith - Original Message - From: Krister Meister [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 4:09 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] sticking lifters Sticking/Clicking/noisy lifters - aside from replacing the hydraulic lifters - a couple of remedies I have heard in the past were: 1. drain the oil, replace with trans fluid ( because of the detergents in it) run car a few miles and drain - replacing with regular engine oil. 2. adding a quart of diesel fuel to the engine - run a few minutes - and drain 3. add the ever popular engine flush additive before doing an oil change Any body try any of these or have any other ideas? Krister Meister Bartlett, IL - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Performer RPM intake problems
I thought that they was special gaskets you used on the heads when they get decked?? A steel gasket shim so something. Keith - Original Message - From: Richard Milkiewicz [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 6:08 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Performer RPM intake problems I had the same problem once after milling and having the block decked. I had to take the intake to the machinist and have him mill it to fit properly. Everything drops lower after decking and milling and won't line up. If you did one or the other it shouldn't be a problem. But maching both surfaces drops the mating surface and now bolt holes won't line up and there is a large gap to fill. Rich - Original Message - From: Robert Belz [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 10:18 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Performer RPM intake problems Just thought I'd share this to possibly save others grief. I put an new Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold on my 454 yesterday but not without having to modify it. After I gooped it up (front and back of block) with silicon sealer and set the manifold on I found the bolt holes wouldn't line up. Further inspection revealed that the manifold hit the casting flash on the heads at the bolts holes third back from front and rear ( the ones that stick up the furthest). I had to remove the manifold and file on the gasket side of the manifold near the top of the holes until the manifold would clear and set down in place. I don't know if head and block decking contributed to the problem or it was just the casting flash that caused the interference. (I have had two other manifolds on this motor and never ran into this problem.) Now I will always test fit a manifold and not assume it's going to fall into place. I also put on a Holley Avenger 770 carb, and MSD Pro billet distributor with a 6AL box, the pisser is I can't tell if it runs much better than with my old Q-Jet and ancient Holley Street Dominator intake. Also on the noise (howl) issue that came up recently with the Holley, mine has a different growl, not quit as loud as the Q-Jet. I hope I can get more out of this new set up or it looks like I dumped about a grand for nothing. Well back to the garage. Sorry to hear the misfortune of those in the flooding areas, hope everyone is O.K. We could sure use some of that water here in Colorado, we are burning up, literally. Bob Belz - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Alternator Problem(crobertson1)
If the volts drops when items are turned on, is a good sign that the regulator is not working. If the alternator is one with a internal regulator, there is a way to check it. Someone will have to help me with this one, because I have on done this in many years. On the back of the alternator there is a small hole, I am not sure where this is located, but you insert a very small screw driver into the hole and press against something inside while run and if the battery show charging (above 12 volts) then it is the regulator. Does anyone know how to do this?? Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kelly C. Hanna To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 8:50 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Alternator Problem(crobertson1) Craig; If you just turned the ignition to ON it willshow 12 v. And if you dropped to 10v after connecting the "pig tail", I assume you mean the field wire, thisisnormal. The bat. wire may do the same. If you send me your off line address I'll send you an article on how totrouble shoot it. it's 4 pages but also has Ford and Chry. included. Very good article and in laymen terms. I mayhave to send it in 4 seperate e-mails. Depends on your server.Rich My alternator drops considerably on the gauge when anything is turned onit's a new 78 amp and the battery is two months old as well. I put new cables on the pos and neg to the alt bracket and starter...still does it (goes down to 8 sometimes, especially when it's hot). Can you send that to me as well? [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks, Kelly Kelly Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] Insurance woes
Who has your homeowner insurance?? I would think that if a insurance company had your homeowners insurance, they would want your car. I have State Farm, I will call my agent. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Kelly C. Hanna To: Elky List ; Elky Malibu ; MetroMuscle ; Chevelle List Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 7:08 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Insurance woes It seems as thought there's never a week without some kind of crisis going onthis week, I cannot get anyone in car insurance to return my calls about a new policy for my two cars. As most of you know, we had someone rear-end Jana and we had to go to a lawyer to get anything out of the driver's insurance company. We really didn't like doing that, but given that the company "lost" her claim for five weeks, we were told we had no choice. Now no one will talk to me about a new policy including our own insurance company. My feeling is that this is illegal since our state has a mandatory insurance law. My question is if anyone on these lists is in insurance and/or maybe knows something about this. Other than the accident in which Jana was hot from behind, we are ticket and accident free and have been for over ten years each. I have called State Farm, Germania and Progressive and not one has returned my calls. I need to get a new policy in effect by the end of this month...can anyone help us with what to do or who to call? Kelly Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] RR El Camino Dash
You also need some jack stand or some wire to hold up the dash as you remove bolts. You can also have someone help you. As you remove bolts and get down to the last two or three, the dash will start dropping down and become very flimsy. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Bill Vander Werf To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 7:25 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] RR El Camino Dash There are three bolts that are easy to see on the top. There are two lower bolts, one on each side, that you access from below. Then there is one that hides between the steering column and the dash. That one is easy to miss. All you have to do is take the two nuts loose that hold the steering column to the bracket and the steering column will drop low enough to gain access to it. If you forget that one its real easy to crack 30 year old plastic. Don't forget to take the parking brake release lever loose first. Release the clip and you can leave the lever in the dash while you remove it. All the wiring should unplug if it hasn't been messed with. Bill Vander Werf Ron Griffith wrote: Can anyone tell me where all of the bolts are for the dash (not dashpad) on my 1971 El Camino. I don't want to inadvertently tear something up.Thanks,RWG
Re: [Chevelle-List] gm restoration package
Tell me more. How and where did you get it from? I want to order one. Tell me how. Thanks Jason Keith - Original Message - From: jason pollock [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2002 12:17 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] gm restoration package i have heard about the gm restoration package afew times on the list.i just recieved one for my el camino what a wealth of information every system is broken down every option is listed each engine is covered with photos and best of all its free everyone on this list would love this package jason pollock 66 el caminp - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Chevy
Pepsi 400- Go Chevrolet, Go Dale, get out of the way Jeff g Keith See my Chevelle:http://home.mindspring.com/~keithc/index.html
Re: Re:Re: [Chevelle-List] Chevy
Rick, Keep us up to date on that problem with your father-in-law. Hope things changes. My prays. Keith - Original Message - From: rick schaefer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2002 10:06 PM Subject: Re:Re: [Chevelle-List] Chevy Thanx for the reminder. I forgot the race ..been watching our local flooding. My son father-in-laws homes are in the path of rising water. I need a distraction. rick- - [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Dont be jealous. rick schaefer 72 El camino http://members.home.net/jimmy4/rick1972elky.html ACES #00140 Team Chevelle #00038 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Chevy
25 hit the wall hard. Just as hard as Dale Sr. did. Hopes he is alright. Keith - Original Message - From: Kelly C. Hanna To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2002 9:54 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Chevy Pepsi 400- Go Chevrolet, Go Dale, get out of the way Jeff gKeith I'm watching the Mikey Dale Jr. show right nowthose DEI boys are really good on the restrictor plate tracks! Somehow Marlin got in betwixt them while I was typing earlier.Kelly Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] Chevy
That was a Chevrolet that won. GO DIS. Keith - Original Message - From: Keith Cooper To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2002 9:38 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Chevy Pepsi 400- Go Chevrolet, Go Dale, get out of the way Jeff g Keith See my Chevelle:http://home.mindspring.com/~keithc/index.html
Re: [Chevelle-List] Happy Fourth
Let's not forget the real meaning of today! Happy Fourth to all our service men who are away from home. Happy Fourth to everyone on the Chevelle list. Everyone enjoy themselves. GO CRUISEN! Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Herbert Lumpp To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 9:46 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Happy Fourth Thanks, and Carol and I would like to send that out to everyone also!!! cYa- Herb Lumpp1966 El Camino, LS6, 6 spd, Currie 9"ACES 3509http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/ - Original Message - From: Wayne To: Chevelles Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 3:13 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Happy Fourth Just wanted to wish everyone 1) Good weather 2) Great Cruises 3) Great Cook outs and hopefully a fantastic day Happy Fourth All Wayne 66 Chevelle SS
Re: [Chevelle-List] Re:=?iso-8859-1?Q?Identify_this_car
Send it to me and I will see if I can compress it to send in an email to the list. Keith - Original Message - From: rick schaefer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 10:36 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Re:=?iso-8859-1?Q?Identify_this_car I originally thought Europe because the plate looked British. I recieved a neat picture from someone in South Afrca of the entire car in red. Its a good looking ride. I can open it with my email program, but my computer won't save the format??? I'll send the picture to anyones personal email if you want to see it. rick -- =?iso-8859-1?Q?[EMAIL PROTECTED]?= [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?[EMAIL PROTECTED]?= [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:Re:_[Chevelle-List]_Identify_this_car=3F=3F=3F?= Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 09:29:58 +0200 Rick, I'm 99% sure its not european, so what you wrote about Holden sounds right. Almost forgot this: HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY TO EVERYBODY ! André It looks like it might be a version of the European Opel. Similar to American cars, but the proportions look a bit smaller. I can't explain t he chevrolet lettering, unless opel built it to sell in europe as a chev y. rick -- NoNeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: From: NoNeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Identify this car??? Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 16:38:39 -0400 OK. Sorry about the link having a mind of it's own! I renamed the pic and tried again. Try this link http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/weirdcar.jpg Josh Gin (NoNeck) Visit my Chevelle website www.NoNecksChevelle.com - Original Message - From: Rodney. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 3:25 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Identify this car??? The link got messed up, it should be - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] rick schaefer 72 El camino http://members.home.net/jimmy4/rick1972elky.html ACES #00140 Team Chevelle #00038 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] rick schaefer 72 El camino http://members.home.net/jimmy4/rick1972elky.html ACES #00140 Team Chevelle #00038 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] May I ask some more questions? here they are...lol
I agree. This is getting a little ridiculous isn't it. People are here to help, not spoon feed you. Chad, you do not any even have a car your working on. Sorry, but this is getting a little old for me. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: TronDD [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 6:56 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] May I ask some more questions? here they are...lol Oh get off your lazy butt and do some research. :) How old are you? Don't you do reports for school or do you just buy them off the internet? Tim. On Wed, 3 Jul 2002 17:33:10 -0400 Chad Playso [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: umm...do you know the answers? its a pain to look through all those websites looking for all my answers...i know, im lazy... - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 4:57 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] May I ask some more questions? here they are...lol try this A HREF=http://chevelles.com/shop/index.shtml;Team Chevelle | Restoration Shop/A or http://chevelles.com/shop/index.shtml Team Chevelle has most of the answers to the most commonly asked questions - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] May I ask some more questions? here they are...lol
See ya Chad, You'll get no answers from me. Find a new group to play with. Keith - Original Message - From: Chad Playso [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 20029:20 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] May I uask some more questions? here they are...lol everythings getting a little old for you, isnt it keith? - Original Message - From: Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 7:43 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] May I ask some more questions? here they are...lol I agree. This is getting a little ridiculous isn't it. People are here to help, not spoon feed you. Chad, you do not any even have a car your working on. Sorry, but this is getting a little old for me. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: TronDD [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 6:56 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] May I ask some more questions? here they are...lol Oh get off your lazy butt and do some research. :) How old are you? Don't you do reports for school or do you just buy them off the internet? Tim. On Wed, 3 Jul 2002 17:33:10 -0400 Chad Playso [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: umm...do you know the answers? its a pain to look through all those websites looking for all my answers...i know, im lazy... - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 4:57 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] May I ask some more questions? here they are...lol try this A HREF=http://chevelles.com/shop/index.shtml;Team Chevelle | Restoration Shop/A or http://chevelles.com/shop/index.shtml Team Chevelle has most of the answers to the most commonly asked questions - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Heater hose sizes and connections
When I worked at Russell, they give me a set-up like that for my heater hoses. It was suppose to connect to the water pump and attaching a braiding heater hose. I never used it. If you want, I can see what they give me and you can have it, if it is what you are looking for. Let me know if you want me to find what they give me. Keith - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 9:36 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Heater hose sizes and connections Dale, I've never seen such a thing, but in the past, I used a brass 90 degree fitting and a brass hose barb. I know, its 2 pieces and all, but the brass looks nice, and you'll still have your heater..Take it easy Dan McIntosh 65 Malibu In a message dated 7/3/2002 5:43:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: So. Anyone know of a mfg of a 90 degree water fitting that accepts a 5/8" heater hose and has 1/2" NPT threads?
Re: [Chevelle-List] Ignorant older guy
I thought a crate motor just referred to the factor that the motor block / head were complete and sold in a wooden crate. A crate motor is a motor which has all the major machining completed. A motor which usually includes the block,crank,cam,heads, but can come in more completed stages. Some new crate motors are fully completed, just down in and start. Crate motors are any size, any make (including FORDS, Chad) and can be in form of completion. Keith - Original Message - From: Kelly C. Hanna To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2002 6:11 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Ignorant older guy so a good thing to do would be to get a short block?cause i figure, if you get the crate motor, you need to putEVERYTHING on it, but if you buy a short or long block, its already mostly put into the motor. Crate motors are about the same as long blocks...some are more complete than others. Kelly Jana Hanna www.hannawoodworks.com
Re: [Chevelle-List] Trunk Floor Replacement
To give the seams a good factory look and a neat seam, use the 3m seam tape. It comes in a roll. Unroll it and heat it with a heat gun. Be careful not to overheat. It only takes a little heat You do not need to completely melt the tape, just enough to get it to take. That is what I used on the seam. Never weld in a long complete seam. Spot weld in short section. Too much heat from long welding strip will cause problems. Weld short strips. Grind and weld some more. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Mark Weber To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 4:28 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Trunk Floor Replacement I replaced the floor in my 71. It was a p.i.t.a. But since I think I have more time than brains I went about this method. Here is a link. http://webpages.charter.net/perfmark/cars/chevelle/before/april_2000_work.htm How I did it: 1. Remove old. 2. Buy new 3 piece kit paying attention to price. 3. Fully welded all butt/overlap seams. Spot welded every 2 inches allpoints where the floor layed over a supporting brace. 4. Fabricate extra pieces to cover holes on each side next to the wheel well housing, from trunk floor up and over to the seat back. 5. Lots ofgrinding on imperfect welds. I think my wire feed welder is a POS. 6. Some bondo and sanding to make it look smooth. 7. Seam sealer. 8. Trunk paint. 9. Probably spent 80 hours on it. I could not make a living fixing trunk floors. How I would do it again: 1. Remove old. 2. Buy newkitthat extends further up the back wall and further up and over the rear axle hump. Don't worry if it costs $100 more it will be a better and easier fit, it will look better, and even if your time is only worth $5 an hour it will still pay for itself. (When you buy quality - what?) 3.Tack all butt/overlap seams and do not worry about 100% of the joint being welded. Spot welded every 2 inches all spots where the floor layed over a supporting brace. 4.Grinding really bad welds but don't worry about the rest.If you buy a welder buy a good one. Borrow a good one from a buddy and try it first. (When you buy quality you only cry once.) 5.Dont bondo. Go around the new panel seams with seam sealer and leave it. 6. Trunk paint. 7.I estimate this would only take 40 hours to do a trunk. and would look very good to 95% of the population. It is not unusual to see seam sealer on joints on cars and I think it would slip by most people. Of course this would not look as perfect and you would still know etc... I would do it this way if I were just making a neat car really nice. The biggest problem you might have is the fact that all the original metal you weldmay be 1/2 rusted away. You take nice new weldable thicker trunk panels and try to weld them to this thin worn out stuff and you might burn through every inch. Maybe my car was to rusty for this to be easy. When it is done it is nice to have a trunk floor that stuff does not fall through :) Good luck, Mark 71 SS -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 12:12 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Trunk Floor ReplacementHowdy How difficult is it to replace the trunk floor in a 66 Chevelle ? Time and material wise ?Thanks...John
Re: [Chevelle-List] No low beams
It is easier to check. The headlight has three terminals. One is common. Run a jumper wire from the battery. Connect one wire to the Common and touch one of the other two terminal, then the other. You should see low then high beams, if not, bad headlight. Keith - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 2:24 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] No low beams Jeff: ever think maybe the low beams are burnt out? It happened to me once. Larry (z)
Re: [Chevelle-List] I haven't gotten any mail...
The last message I got was AWESOME on 6/21, other than this one. Where is everyone?? Al must be having trouble with the new server. Keith - Original Message - From: Don To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 1:39 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] I haven't gotten any mail... I haven't received any messages from the list for three days now. There's gotta be something wrong! DonACES # 05091
Re: [Chevelle-List] I haven't gotten any mail...
Thanks Don! You got the list going again. Keith - Original Message - From: Don To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 1:39 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] I haven't gotten any mail... I haven't received any messages from the list for three days now. There's gotta be something wrong! DonACES # 05091
Re: [Chevelle-List] Awesome
I can not believe it. That was awesome. Thanks. It deserved to be posted. Keith - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 21, 2002 5:21 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Awesome How much are tickets to go on that thing??? Dan McIntosh 65 Malibu
Re: [Chevelle-List] brakes?
Almost anytime the brake goes to the floor, it means that the master cylinder has gone out. You should feel and/or see brake fluid around the brake rod in the inside or out. If you do not see or feel any brake fluid around the rod,then you can pump the brakes going down the road and if they get better, then you let the fluid get too low and you just have air in the system. If you have not done a brake job on the car in a long time and you put a new master cylinder on it now, you will most likely have more trouble later. It is best when changing the master cylinder (If it has been awhile since you did a complete job including rebuilding the wheel cylinders) that you also rebuild the wheel cylinders. The new master cylinder will put extra pressure on the old tired wheel cylinders and cause them to blow out. So if fluid is around the brake rod, then it is a master cylinder. If when driving, you can pump up the brakes and they work or work better, then you got air in the system. So check your wheel cylinders like Rick S. said. Good luck. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Thomas Newell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: , June 15, 2002 1:04 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] brakes? earlier tonight my brakes worked fine on my 69, when i went to leave my brothers house i got in my car and the brake pedal almost went to the floor and the brake light lite up on my dash. i drove home about ten miles with hardly no brakes but they did work some. when i got home i looked and my fluid was real low on one side, i have manual brakes and i was wondering what i should be looking for as far as a problem? i'm far from a mechanic. if i put more brake fluid in, is it ok to drive to the shop or should i get it towed? thank's Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Motor Problem....
This problem sure sounds like the problem I had with the camshaft lobes wiping out. When you played with the timing the sound would change. Did you check to see if all the rocker arms are working the same?? Do you have a broken spring or bend pushrod?? Keith - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 9:20 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Motor Problem Don, Hard to answer your questions, because the timing was always retarded on it. Since it was so retarded it caused it to run rich as crap, which in turn made it misfire. It was misfiring(running rough) at all times. Before, it only knocked mainly when it was at idel, but when the timing is where its supposed to be, its always present. I already checked the rod bearings, crankshaft(main?) bearings, timing chain, and push rods. I dont think its piston slap, because i would tend to think you could feel it doing that, and when running, putting my hands on the valve covers. I even got a metal pole and put it up to the exhaust pipes(headers) and no difference between cylinders. When the timing is retarded, it sounds more so on the top end, drivers side. With is set in the right spot, you cant tell at all. Thanks for your time- Tim - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re:[Chevelle-List] Keith A/C
Rick, I ask the AC board if you could convert an expansion valve system to an orifice tube type and this was his response: Probably, but I wouldn't unless it's the VIR (Valves In Receiver) type. The expansion valve systems are excellent retrofit candidates I believe he is saying that the expansion system is a good retrofit to R134. Keith - Original Message - From: rick schaefer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 10:18 AM Subject: Re:Re: Re:[Chevelle-List] Keith A/C Keith Please send me a copy of the Vacumn instructions. Also what is the cost of the orifice tube conversion? Is it a bolt-in replacement for the expansion valve. rick -- Bob [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: From: Bob [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Re:[Chevelle-List] Keith A/C Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 06:47:13 -0400 Keith, I would like a copy of the instructions as I am going to install all new R34a conversion components from Old Air Products. The pump from Harbor Freight is a venturi pump, works like a carb. Attach a LARGE capacity compressor and the venturi effect creates the vacuum. I have one and it works fine for the few cars I do. Bob Walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] Maryland Chevelle Club - Original Message - From: Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 6:14 AM Subject: Re: Re:[Chevelle-List] Keith A/C Rick, Thanks!. I think that amount must be right. He told me that I would need 11 oz of oil. He said add to compressor and put the rest in the condenser,etc. So you must be right. On the expansion valve here is what was said: These types of valves, although efficient, have some disadvantages over orifice tube systems. Like orifice tubes these valves can become clogged with debris, but also have small moving parts that may stick and malfunction due to corrosion. If anyone wants the vacuum down instructions he gave me, email me or I can post it on the list. His instructions were very detail and different from how I have vacuum down in the past. I have always put the vacuum unit on the system for about two hours and then charged, but this is not how he instructed me. ON Harbor Freight Tools site, they have an Air Vacuum Pump which only sells for $10.00. This seems too cheap. Electric units usually sell for 150.00-350.00. Here is the page on Harbor: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=3952 What do you guys think?? Is this junk?? What do I need to look for in a vacuum unit. I just want one good enough to do my cars only. I am not wanting to go into the a/c business. - Original Message - From: rick schaefer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 1:34 AM Subject: Re:[Chevelle-List] Keith A/C Keith info from a 72 Chevrolet Service Manual: Freon - 3 lbs 12 oz oil - 11 oz These are for 72, but I'm sure 71 is extremely close. BTW - Standard conversion for R134a seems to be 80% of the R12 charge. So 60oz * .8 = 48 oz of R134a. rick rick schaefer 72 El camino http://members.home.net/jimmy4/rick1972elky.html ACES #00140 Team Chevelle #00038 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] rick schaefer 72 El camino http://members.home.net/jimmy4/rick1972elky.html ACES #00140 Team Chevelle #00038 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] 71 tire and jack layou
Does anyone have the picture of the layout of the jack,spare tire for a 71 Chevelle. I know that jack sits under the tire but how is it positioned and the handle etc. Keith Cooper See my Chevelle:http://home.mindspring.com/~keithc/index.html
Re: [Chevelle-List] Overspray removal
If it is not very heavy of an overspray, you might just use a good wax. If wax does not remove it, try some rubbing compound. I do not like rubbing compound myself. I would use some 3M Diamond Cutting Compound. I would wax the car first so you can remove the light stuff, then use the Diamond Cutting Compound. Keith - Original Message - From: Craig Cerena Robertson To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 7:47 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Overspray removal I need to clean the overspray off my Chevelle. Can someone give me any good ideas how to clean the overspray off but keep from harming the paint. I painted a few things in my garage and got the overspray on the front of the car. Thanks for any suggestions. Craig 69SS
Re: [Chevelle-List] Overspray removal
Rob, Is Goof Off safe for all types of paint jobs?? I have never hear of using that products on autos. I have used it, just never on a car. Keith - Original Message - From: Rob To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 8:24 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Overspray removal try a product called "goof-off", should be able ta find it at a automotive paint supply store--- we used it comonly for over spray when i was partners in a body shop Rob Means"be good,if not,be good at it [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Craig Cerena Robertson To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 4:47 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Overspray removal I need to clean the overspray off my Chevelle. Can someone give me any good ideas how to clean the overspray off but keep from harming the paint. I painted a few things in my garage and got the overspray on the front of the car. Thanks for any suggestions. Craig 69SS
Re: Re:[Chevelle-List] Keith A/C
Rick, Thanks!. I think that amount must be right. He told me that I would need 11 oz of oil. He said add to compressor and put the rest in the condenser,etc. So you must be right. On the expansion valve here is what was said: These types of valves, although efficient, have some disadvantages over orifice tube systems. Like orifice tubes these valves can become clogged with debris, but also have small moving parts that may stick and malfunction due to corrosion. If anyone wants the vacuum down instructions he gave me, email me or I can post it on the list. His instructions were very detail and different from how I have vacuum down in the past. I have always put the vacuum unit on the system for about two hours and then charged, but this is not how he instructed me. ON Harbor Freight Tools site, they have an Air Vacuum Pump which only sells for $10.00. This seems too cheap. Electric units usually sell for 150.00-350.00. Here is the page on Harbor: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=3952 What do you guys think?? Is this junk?? What do I need to look for in a vacuum unit. I just want one good enough to do my cars only. I am not wanting to go into the a/c business. - Original Message - From: rick schaefer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 1:34 AM Subject: Re:[Chevelle-List] Keith A/C Keith info from a 72 Chevrolet Service Manual: Freon - 3 lbs 12 oz oil - 11 oz These are for 72, but I'm sure 71 is extremely close. BTW - Standard conversion for R134a seems to be 80% of the R12 charge. So 60oz * .8 = 48 oz of R134a. rick rick schaefer 72 El camino http://members.home.net/jimmy4/rick1972elky.html ACES #00140 Team Chevelle #00038 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Points or Participant Voting
I feel that I saw the same thing on some of the shows that I have been to. I have mixed feelings about it. First, I would like my car to be judge fairly. If a car group is sponsoring the show or having the show, you can only expect them to only vote for each other. This is not right, and is not a good way to get new members to join. I think that it is sad that people and car groups do this. If I was in a car group, (and I am not) I would again want my car to voted on Only if it had merit, and not because I am a member of the club. I want to know what everyone really thinks about the car. This way, if I win and can really enjoy. Now I go just because I want to meet new people and just show off the car. I am not interested in Trophies anymore. A trophy will not make me or my car any more or any less. I know what I did to restore it and I am very proud of my car. That is all that counts. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: rocky hill [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 11:45 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Points or Participant Voting Dale, I have seen this from both sides, it has came down to I will not show in a participant judged event, I don't want you to think I am crying sour grapes because thats not the case at all! I have seen the good ole boy clique take over more times than I can count, I have seen many cars more worthy than mine get passed over because of a certain group of cars/clubs/people seemed to rule the roost. so when it comes to participant judged shows, I don't waste my money,time or effort, and I leave my car in the garage! I would much rather have someone judge my car by a set of standards, against all the cars in my class. I feel that if my car is judged on it's own merit against the other cars on a point system, it just seem more of a fair shake to me. thats my opinion. Rocky Hill --- 396guy [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Since there is a great variety of members on the list I thought this would be a good way to get a cross section of opinions on regional Chevelle shows. Three of the five ACES affiliated Regional Chevelle shows are participant judged (plus CB of course) and two are point judged. As the Chevelle enthusiast, which do you prefer and why? This will probably boil down to two camps; participant because attendees go to have fun and welcome the association of others although someone invariably claims block or clique voting and point judged for those that want competition of their car against another and can stand the cut throat approach. Both have their good and bad sides in my opinion but what do you think? If you had a choice to go to one or the other, which would you choose? Dale ATTACHMENT part 2 application/ms-tnef name=winmail.dat __ Do You Yahoo!? LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience http://launch.yahoo.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] no action
I got a couch from a friend that had been in storage and it had a molded smell. I use the new Febrez stuff. I had to spray it down three separate times, but it worked. You will need two or three bottle for the whole inside of a car. That stuff really does work. You can get it at your local grocery store. Keith Cooper - Original Message - From: Rob To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 1:23 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] no action Some people have to work for a living. :) ;) OUCH!!! Rob Means"be good,if not,be good at it [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Paul O'Brien To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 8:24 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] no action Some people have to work for a living. :) ;) Rob wrote: hello out there...boy the list is quiet today Rob Means "be good,if not,be good at it [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Re:Re: Re:[Chevelle-List] Keith A/C
I am not going to convert mine to the orifice tube. I am keeping the expansion valve set-up. I will try to find out if you can convert it for you. Here are the instruction he gave me. Do you think that I should just post this on the group?? A/C Vacuum Down and Charging Instructions These are the generic instructions I made up. They vary from car to car, but you should be able to do yours with no problem. The POA system will keep the low side a constant 28 to 30PSI if operating properly...Hope this helps... To Pull A Vacuum: and Charge the system 1.. First hook up your gauges to both service ports. Open both wheels on the manifold set. Turn on the vacuum pump. If you have a ballast valve, open it. If not continue. 2.. Once the vacuum is pulled to 29.9 hg's, (Or as much as it will pull down. You will lose about 1 hg for every 1,000 feet above sealevel. This is normal.) Shut both wheels on the manifold gauges and wait five to ten minutes to see if the vacuum degrades. This to is normal as moisture boils off, and refrigerant boils from the oil left in the system. 3.. Repeat the pulling down of the vacuum again. Then wait again to see if it holds. You may have to repeat this a few times, depending on moisture, oil holding refrigerant etc. But once it holds for about ten minutes with no loss of vacuum, turn the pump on one last time with both wheels open for fifteen minutes to remove whatever boiled off. Then close both wheels gain. 4.. Hook up your tank or can. Open the valve and crack the fitting on the charging hose where it connects to the manifold set. This will purge the air out of the hose. Once done, tighten the fitting and open THE LOW SIDE WHEEL ONLY. The HIGH side is to remain closed for the remainder of charging. 5.. Let the vacuum pull in as much as it can, I charge liquid, but either way will work. Remember to purge the air out of the line each time you change cans. Make sure you close the wheel when you do this. 6.. Once the system has taken in as much as it can, then start the car and finish charging. There should be no need to jump any switches, as the system will have the static pressure needed to allow the switches to work. Charge to 2.2 times the ambient temp on the high side. This is where you now adjust your charge. Monitor the vent temps with a vent thermometer. Slowly add refrigerant allowing time for the system to stabilize. Check vent temps. Do this until you get your best vent temps and then stop. Try to keep your high side pressures between 2.2 and 2.5 time's ambient temp. If you have a condenser fan (Electric) make sure it is operating properly. If only an engine driven fan, it too must be operating properly or high head pressures will result. When charging is complete, close windows, lower fan setting and your vent temps will drop also. Charging should be done at around 1,500 Rpm's Windows Open AC on Max Fan on high speed. - Original Message - From: rick schaefer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 10:18 AM Subject: Re:Re: Re:[Chevelle-List] Keith A/C Keith Please send me a copy of the Vacumn instructions. Also what is the cost of the orifice tube conversion? Is it a bolt-in replacement for the expansion valve. rick -- Bob [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: From: Bob [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Re:[Chevelle-List] Keith A/C Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 06:47:13 -0400 Keith, I would like a copy of the instructions as I am going to install all new R34a conversion components from Old Air Products. The pump from Harbor Freight is a venturi pump, works like a carb. Attach a LARGE capacity compressor and the venturi effect creates the vacuum. I have one and it works fine for the few cars I do. Bob Walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] Maryland Chevelle Club - Original Message - From: Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 6:14 AM Subject: Re: Re:[Chevelle-List] Keith A/C Rick, Thanks!. I think that amount must be right. He told me that I would need 11 oz of oil. He said add to compressor and put the rest in the condenser,etc. So you must be right. On the expansion valve here is what was said: These types of valves, although efficient, have some disadvantages over orifice tube systems. Like orifice tubes these valves can become clogged with debris, but also have small moving parts that may stick and malfunction due to corrosion. If anyone wants the vacuum down instructions he gave me, email me or I can post it on the list. His instructions were very detail and different from how I have vacuum down in the past. I have always put the vacuum unit on the system for about two hours and then charged, but this is not how he instructed me. ON Harbor Freight Tools site, they have an Air Vacuum Pump which only sells for $10.00. This seems too cheap. Electric units usually sell for 150.00-350.00
Re: [Chevelle-List] Worked up the nerve
What part of the trim were you doing?. The parts of my dash like the letter (Lights, Wipers, etc) I used some sponge like material and stamped it. Keith - Original Message - From: Jeff Fischer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 3:49 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Worked up the nerve Finally worked up the nerve to tackle using the paint marker to redo the instrument trim on the dash. Was nervous about it but after the first gauge, I got more confidence and when I was done, I was looking for more to do! :) If anyone is debating to try this or not, give it a try, I am absolutely no artist and the Testor's Paint Marker worked extremely well. -- Jeff Fischer Lake Elmo, MN '71 Chevelle SS, 454, 4 spd http://home.attbi.com/~addss/chevelle.html - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
