Re: [Chevelle-list] Muncie site
The M20 is the wide ratio The M21 ia a close ratio On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 11:47 PM, G rotty...@aol.com wrote: Thanks guy's this is exactly what I was looking for Thanks again Looks like I have a 69 M21 Wide Ratio -Original Message- From: Rich Pruett busted_knuck...@comcast.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tue, May 31, 2011 4:46 pm Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Muncie site Is this what you're looking for? http://www.tbtrans.com/muncie_4_speed.htm If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy. Red Green - Original Message - From: Dale a396...@fidnet.com To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 12:40:01 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Muncie site You could try http://chevellestuff.net/qd/muncie.htm and see if that helps. Dale *From:* chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [ mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.netchevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net?] *On Behalf Of *G *Sent:* Tuesday, May 31, 2011 10:59 AM *To:* Chevelle-list@chevelles.net *Subject:* [Chevelle-list] Muncie site Can someone please direct me once again to the Muncie site. I just got a supposedly M22 1969 Tranny, I would like to verify some #'s off this transmission. I do not think it is a M22, but a M21 Thanks again, Joe
Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle
Again, an engine with matching partial VIN stamped on them is not a way to tell 1971-1972 SS-optioned Chevelles as noted above. Not completely true. A 71 Chevelle with a 454 in which the partial VIN on the block matches that of the car's VIN would verify it as an SS. 72 as well but not needed because the W in the VIN would verify this year. - Original Message - From: Dale To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2011 6:49 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle Just a couple of changes. Dale From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Trooper Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2011 5:34 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle There seems to be some confusion about the different plates we all are talking about here so here is a brief description of each to help. The 65-67 Chevelles has the VIN tag on the left front door hinge pillar. 68-72 are on the left dash visible through the windshield. This is the tag that identifies your car with the DMV for licensing, ownership, etc. It is illegal to tamper with or remove this tag. There are several places you can find the hidden VIN's on these cars. Since the frames can be changed, probably the best place would be on the fire wall under the heater blower. The only 1965-1967 model year and plant I know of that stamped a partial VIN behind the heater box on the firewall was Atlanta in 1967. I believe it became common practice for all plants from 1968 on. The tag on the left hand portion of the cowl is the trim tag. This tag gives you body build date, trim codes,Model year and ID, interior style, body color, etc. Most restorers feel this tag is also very important to the car but it will not suffice for a VIN tag with the DMV and it is not illegal to remove. Formal name is Fisher Body Number plate (aka trim tag, cowl tag, etc.) It is illegal to remove/alter/etc. in Oklahoma as of November of 2007 for 1953 through 1977 model year vehicles. See http://chevellestuff.net/misc/oklahoma_trim_tag_law.htm The protect-o-plate is a plate that came with your classic when it was new. It came in a cardboard pamphlet in your glovebox. It was used for warrantee purposes. It is coded for all the options on your car and thus can identify an SS for 69-72 when SS was simply an option. Other Chevelles 65-68 an SS can be identified in the VIN code. The Protect-O-Plate first appeared in 1965, so there would be no such thing for the 1964 model year. Only certain options were coded (not all options) and different years showed different options. Only in 1969 and 1970 can it be used to identify an SS-optioned Chevelle by looking at the original engine code since all 69-70 Chevelle SS-optioned Chevelles came with a performance-oriented 396 or 454 and that engine code is on the POP. When the SS option became more of a dress-up option than a performance one in 1971-72, both 350 engines as well as the 402 engine could be ordered with or without the SS option so the presence of these engine codes is not a way to tell; only the 454 engine in both 1971-72 were available with the SS option exclusively. The build sheets were sheets with all the specific cars options so the guys on the line knew how to build each individual car. They were to be thrown away after they were used but many guys simply stuffed them in the seats, doors, above the glove box or gas tank and anywhere else they could hide them. So if you can't find your build sheet it's because someone else did many years ago and tossed it or the guys on the line that day were doing their job correctly and disposing of your sheets correctly. These sheets have all your options on them and thus can identify a real 69-72 SS. There are other ways to identify an SS Chevelle from 69-72 such as unique paint codes, engines with matching VINs, W in the VIN of the 72's, etc. But the build sheet is the gold standard. Again, an engine with matching partial VIN stamped on them is not a way to tell 1971-1972 SS-optioned Chevelles as noted above. The generally accepted paperwork called a 'buildsheet' was used in Fremont as early as 1964. Other plants didn't begin using them until the 1969 model year. From 1964 (except for Fremont) through 1969, the paperwork used by workstations was BODY BROADCAST COPY and CHASSIS BROADCAST COPY sheets and has almost no information about options. See http://chevellestuff.net/1969/bs/kan/kan.htm for some 1969 examples of these sheets. Hope this clarifies a few things. Tony I didn't see a response to the message below but may have missed it. VIN plates have been around for years, at least as far back as 47 that I know of for Chevrolets and maybe earlier. - Original Message - From: Jim Thompson
Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle
In some states it is also illegal to own and sell the VIN tag rivets. - Original Message - From: Chum Nault To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Friday, May 06, 2011 2:19 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle Larry Depending on your state there are laws about removing the VIN tags, I removed mine during the restoration and I am currently looking for the correct rivets. I contacted trimtags.com but haven't gotten a reply yet. They make replacement cowl tags but not Vin tags. You need that tag if you ever want to sell the vehicle so if you think your painter removed it ask him for it, I don't know how you will get a replacement and it may be illegal for him to even possess it depending on your state laws. The numbers on the frame on a 65 are on the top of the left frame rail between the last 2 rear body mounts. Chum Nault -- From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Larry Williams Sent: Friday, May 06, 2011 10:40 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle I am missing the plate on the driver side door post on my 65 SS. I suspect the painter saw the value of the tag and removed it. I should mention that I don't remember seeing the tag prior to painting. I have never been able to find any numbers on the frame. Should I post the vin? Larry Everyday Is A Saturday --- On Thu, 5/5/11, Barnes, Alex abar...@generalcable.com wrote: From: Barnes, Alex abar...@generalcable.com Subject: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Thursday, May 5, 2011, 9:48 PM Hi guys, I need a little help. Im looking at a 69 ss chevelle tomorrow. He says its all original and he says its an ss. I will be looking at it closely tomorrow. He doesnt have a build sheet or a protecta plate. This car is a project car. Everything looks to be there. I looked at it quickly today on my way to work. Then called him on the phone. I pretty much know what to look for but is there any one thing that can help me decide. It is a big block with a muncie 4 speed, it has a 12 bolt, but i didnt check the brakes. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Alex -- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1325 / Virus Database: 1500/3619 - Release Date: 05/06/11
Re: [Chevelle-list] Reinstalling rear window moulding
Was the rear window taken out and put back in? If so possibly it isn't sitting out as proud as it used to. Old methods used butyl tape that gave just the right fit. When using the new sealers the installer must make sure he applies the proper size bead to bring the window out to it's correct position. - Original Message - From: Darren dar...@hopeandcompany.com To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 9:20 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Reinstalling rear window moulding I removed all the factory clips and put all new ones on when we cleaned up the rust in the channel. The new ones aren't as snug as the others but they do look to be almost identical. It seems the moulding sits down in the channel OK but as I work it in some areas pop back out. Anybody experienced this before and/or how do I get it seated again? Thanks for your comments! Darren - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3601 - Release Date: 04/27/11
Re: [Chevelle-list] OT:Test E-mail
You got that right. And I'll bet you it will be faster. I'm still a prisoner of Hughes. No other broadband where I live. - Original Message - From: Larry Williams To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 5:02 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT:Test E-mail The only special thing about the ATT DSL is that is it 3X cheaper than I was paying Hughes. -- From: Rick Schaefer ric...@gmail.com To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wed, December 29, 2010 9:11:10 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT:Test E-mail Well, aren't YOU special On Tue, Dec 28, 2010 at 11:17 PM, Larry Williams larrydwilliams1...@att.net wrote: Just got DSL and a new address. Larry -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino 347.gif
Re: [Chevelle-list] Sanding
This is my preferred sander for paint removal. The National Detroit Mud Hog. I use mine with 36 or 40 grit and it will remove paint in no time. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/National-Detroit-8-Air-Sander-900-Bondo-Hog-Best-8-Md-/220706512713?pt=Motors_Automotive_Toolshash=item3363221f49 If your doing the whole car I agree with Tom, media blasting is the way to go. - Original Message - From: Tom Rightler To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 4:32 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Sanding Forget those, you need this if you want to remove old paint rapidly.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hutchins-Eliminator-2001-Auto-Body-Air-Sander-8-NICE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb1be2203QQitemZ200550523395QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools That and a 40 grit disc will blow it off in no time then you finish the bare metal with a 6 DA and 80 grit. You're best bet is to have it media blasted really instead of wasting time with removing paint that way. It's well worth the expense not to mention you don't get dirty or breath that crap in. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor http://www.mdchevelleclub.com -Original Message- From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Rick Schaefer Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 2:19 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Sanding Is a pain in the butt! I'm either doing it wrong or have the wrong equipment. It took me 3 hours to sand the clearcoat, paint, primer and MOST of the factory paint from ONE of my elky fenders.I don't think it should take that long. Used 60/80 grit with theses 2 tools : http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-4151-6-Inch-Vacuum-Pnuematic/dp/B4XOT6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8s=industrialqid=1291834205sr=8-1 and http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-7336-6-Inch-Variable-Random/dp/B222YH I alternated so as to not overwork either and allow the compressor to cool. BTW compressor is a 60 gallon 5HP Kobalt. Still need to finish it up, but the remaining paint/primer was coming off comparatively easy. I am using Norton Mirka paper. I also bought a sanding backer for my grinder but it was difficult to keep from gouging the metal. Do I need a 7inch or larger sander? Recommendation on brand? Coarser paper needed? I want to do the entire car and finish it in this lifetime, Thanx. -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino === Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16460) http://www.pctools.com === === Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16460) http://www.pctools.com === -- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1170 / Virus Database: 426/3304 - Release Date: 12/08/10
Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair - PREP PATCH PANEL
There is always a lot of debate on how to prep the inside of replacement panels and the metal on the skeletal structure of the body that you exposed when you removed the panel. The simple truth is that these cars have lasted 40-45 years with nothing applied to these areas. Not to mention they were daily drivers for a number of these years. The only rust we find is in areas of high moisture. We as car lovers are going to baby these cars for the rest of their lives so they will never see the neglect they saw the first part of their lives. Some of these panels are electroplated black. Take a rag with lacquer thinner on it and wipe the panel. If the rags not black it's electroplated. In this case leave it. It's the best prep you can get. If the rags black remove it and, for best results, spray with epoxy primer. If you prime with anything else you must top coat because it will draw moisture. In reality the black coating from the factory weather electroplated or cheap black paint is better than what the general put on them (nothing). Now with all this said, I remove all factory coatings and epoxy prime the whole replacement panel. I have found rust under this black coating many times (even when electroplated). - Original Message - From: Josh Campbell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 6:55 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair - PREP PATCH PANEL What I normally do is hit the backside of a panel with 80, 120, and finally 220. Blow it off and wipe it with a little prep solvent then spraybomb the heck out of it, yes grind back about 3 inches and spray weld-through primer on the backside. Also do the new panel the same, that black sealer primer won't last forever!! If your haven't noticed I like to try to keep from having to come back in the future Josh Campbell 66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisserie, 1st car never part with it) 66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel) 71 Malibu (FOR SALE) You should never have a battle of wits with morons ... they'll just drag you down to their level beat you with experience. --- On Mon, 11/15/10, Rick Schaefer ric...@gmail.com wrote: From: Rick Schaefer ric...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair - PREP PATCH PANEL To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Monday, November 15, 2010, 4:17 PM What prep work is necessary before I cut install a reproduction patch panel?I'm thinking that I should at least prime the backside before I install it. So before I do, seems like I ought to wash it down - WITH WHAT? and then go over it once with 80 or 120 grit sander. Would treating the bare metal with some type of ospho metal prep HELP? OR HINDER? I know that I will need to remove the primer from the immediate area where I will be welding, how far should I strip it back? I do have weld-thru primer for the stripped areas. Thanx again. On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 3:25 AM, Johann Grobler johann.grob...@absamail.co.za wrote: Hullo Rick, You touched on the Golden Word, Proficiency Just take it slowly. Johann W Grobler Retired - Original Message - From: Rick Schaefer To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 1:55 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair Thank you both. I know of the glue on method and have always thought that the special application gun would make it too expensive for a one time use. I'll investigate.And I know that a butt weld is preferred but I'm not sure that I could manage it over the distance. I repaired the floor with a butt weld and had to buy a second panel because I screwed up the first. But I took a good look at it all this AM and the inner fender well is needing significant work too. Maybe by the time I'm doing the outer quarter I'll be more proficient. On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 5:25 PM, Josh Campbell countryroad...@yahoo.com wrote: This is me personally on the matter, I prefer to butt weld my panels for the simple fact that in my mind lapping the panels makes a new place for rust to form, that's my personal take. If you are still going to lap weld, lap the original over the new, and make sure to drill plenty of holes to plug weld. Also be sure to stitch weld up your seam where the panels meet. But think of this, if you were to butt weld your panels you can clamp the patch over the old and use a die grinder to cut off your old panel and you are also cutting the patch to fit all at the same time, then all you have to do is clamp and butt weld the panels back
Re: [Chevelle-list] Primer Gun
The gun your looking at should be fine. Like Harlan, I also use a 1.4 gravity feed (although I actually prefer the HVLP gun) for epoxy primers. It lays down very nicely with this gun in my hands. - Original Message - From: harkema...@aol.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Friday, November 05, 2010 11:49 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Primer Gun In a message dated 11/5/2010 10:29:23 AM Central Daylight Time, ric...@gmail.com writes: I need a gun to spray PPG epoxy primer. The info sheet for the primer I will be using says to use a 1.3-1.6 tip the epoxy primer is thicker than paint, but is just a sealer,--- it is a non-sandable primer and not as thick as the sandable primer (Prima K36- which would require a 1.8 or above) I use the DP40LF all the time and use a 1.4 gravity gun, the gravity feed gun seems to lay it down a little smoother than the HVLP-( some times i will add a bit of DT thinner to make it flow out bettter)- but your results may differ. Harlan -- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1153 / Virus Database: 424/3239 - Release Date: 11/05/10
[Chevelle-list] Latest Chevy HP
Just got my Jan. 2011 issue of Chevy High Performance and was quite impressed with their year in review. Four Chevelles and an Eky in the top twelve. That, and only 3 Camaros.
[Chevelle-list] Chevy HP
Oh yes, and Herb Lump came in at number 2 with his 66. Great looking car Herb.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Spare Tire Anchor
Roger, What year is your Chevelle? -- From: Roger Griggs homealone4...@yahoo.com Sent: Monday, November 01, 2010 5:54 PM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Spare Tire Anchor I had a trunk floor put in my chevelle and I realize now that I need to have the spare tire bracket welded in, but no one seems to know where it goes (Year one, etc) Can someone give me a clue, I hate to just put it in and weld it anywhere. Thanks Roger
Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge
You are correct. In 69 the prop valve was up next to the master. The block on the frame is simply a distribution block. In 71 they did away with the prop valve up by the master and incorporated it into the distribution block down on the frame. - Original Message - From: harkema...@aol.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 6:11 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge In a message dated 7/13/2010 9:30:57 PM Central Daylight Time, harkema...@aol.com writes: heck the ground to the dash for the gauge. Sounds like your booster has failed, do you have a check valve in the booster? Run the car and pull the valve out it should be under vacuum. Jim Well, Kim was right, my booster was jusk, replaced it and now every thing seems ok, i did not swap the porportioning valve over from the donor car, should i do that? (this is the block on the framewhere all the line run correct?) i assumed the porportioning valve was the round valve that i swapped over that was right under the master cyl that was about 3-4 long. also i checked the fuel gauge connections at the dash and in the back, all seems ok, when i ground the wire in the back the gauge drops down to E so what does this mean? a bad sender?
Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge
It sounds to me like the master you got from NAPA is master for a 70-72. The original master you got from the GP sounds like a 69 master. Can't remember which one uses the short push rod and which one the long rod (between the booster and the master) but these two masters use different sized rods. Your problem would indicate you have the short rod in and need the long one. Trooper - Original Message - From: harkema...@aol.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 2:53 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] brakes/fuel gauge ok i checked the inside rod at the pedal, and was going to try it in the other hole, but i could not get it to move into the other hole because it was hitting on things, i put the whole booster/rod ass'y from the gran prix into the car. i used the booster, spindles, porportioning valve from the gran prix, and got the discs, calipers,hoses,brgs, master from NAPA for a 69 gran prix with front discs. i did notice that the original master was somwhat more rounded looking than the one i got from NAPA which is more rectangular and when we measured the outside length of the original and NAPA master the original one out of the gran prix is longer than the one we put in, this was just measuring the outside of the case-- if this matters ?? In a message dated 7/13/2010 1:20:24 PM Central Daylight Time, ric...@gmail.com writes: Did you change to a disc type master cylinder a disc type proportioning/distribution valve? On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 7:27 AM, Dan Solomon dansolo...@msn.com wrote: Harlan, As for the brakes, where the booster and master cylinder both off the grand prix? On the booster there is a shaft. They can be short or long. They don't mix and match. A long shaft in a shallow master cylinder can be an issue. Also when switching from manual to power, you need to move the pin in the brake pedal to the other hole. If I remember correctly, move to the top hole, but either way, the OTHER hole. Dan
Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday
Body off on WednesdayI've lifted two 69's with the glass in. Even rotated one on my rotisserie several times and had it on the rotisserie for 8 months with no glass clacking problems. - Original Message - From: Jim H. Thompson To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 6:47 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday Having done this myself. The body is heavy towards the rear. Even with the gas tank removed. I suggest removing the front wind shield and rear window. I didn't and the next morning the front glass had cracked over night. Keep the doors on. From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Thomas Ringlein Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 6:15 PM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: [Chevelle-list] Body off on Wednesday Folks- I have heard both sides of this question - so I send it to the collective for some opinions. I have my car stripped in order to pull the body off the frame this Wednesday. There is zero interior (aside from the dash), no wiring, firewall is stripped, A/C is removed, basically I have a steel shell. I do, however, still have the glass in the car, and the doors mounted. I do not plan to remove the glass - so do I have to remove the doors before I yank the body off the frame? If it makes sense, I will do it. If it does not matter - they are staying on the car. The method used will be an engine hoist (cherry picker) with chains connected to the access holes for front body mounts (bottom right and left of firewall), and also lifted from the two holes in the trunk that feed the wiring down behind the bumper. Again, chains fed through the wiring holes, through a 2x4 with 1 ¼ hole, bolted through (like the guy on 72chevelle.com). Thoughts? Tom Ringlein Clovis, Ca. 1972 Chevelle 2-door coupe
Re: [Chevelle-list] Carb leak
Bill, I had the same problem with the treads being stripped. What I did was to take out the filter in the carb, cut the line back to where I could add an inline fuel filter and then JB Weld the treaded line into the carb. Had no leaks since. tony - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 11:28 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Carb leak I would try teflon tape on the treads of the fitting. -Original Message- From: Bill Lessenberry [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Apr 29, 2007 11:23 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Carb leak I bought a Quadrajet from a guy, the fuel inlet threads had been helicoiled. I installed it on the car yesterday and it's leaking fuel from the inlet. I've tightened the 1 nut as tight as I dare, and it still leaks. It has a nylon seal washer on it and the end of the helicoil may be sticking out a little too far. It's NOT leaking from the fuel line, it's definitely the inlet fitting. Anyone on the list ever run into something like this? Any ideas on a fix without sending it out to a rebuilder? Thanks BillL
Re: [Chevelle-list] OT: Seeking out Shop Owners
What city and state are you in? Tony S. Ft. Lauderdale, FL _ From: Shawn Price [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 8:53 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] OT: Seeking out Shop Owners Since the list has been a bit slow lately I thought I would query the shop owners on the list regarding a few things about your businesses. I'm about to be 'downsized' in the next few months and would love to get out of the IT industry. For years now I've been wanting to open up a restoration/repair shop for American classic and muscle cars. I want to specialize in late '60's and early '70's Chevy's but will work on just about anything that DOESN'T HAVE A COMPUTER! (I'm sick to death of these damn things). Having been a white collar mechanic (Network architect and engineer) for several years, and wrenching on the evenings and weekends all my life, I think I'm ready to make the jump to business ownership. I'm currently working on my business plan and am having problems with the marketing and projected revenue parts. My questions are: 1) What are some standard shop rates for repair work? And is there some kind of guide for how long a particular job should take, such as replacing a clutch or other worn part. 2) I know that some folks will want certain things done to their cars and trucks that will be considered a project, such as installing aftermarket disc brakes, or an updated transmission. How do you go about estimating time and materials, and do you use your standard hourly rate or do you lower it a bit to hit a certain price-point. 3) What kinds of things do you do to protect yourself against liability problems, such as an engine you installed shows up 'blown' after a couple weeks, and the customer is trying to blame you, even though you know by the Jiffy Lube sticker on the windshield that the drain plug fell out from the oil change. 4) Are there any kinds of Shop Owners Associations where you can exchange ideas, similar to this mailing list? These are just sort of general questions to get me started thinking about more specific questions later on. And I do appreciate any input, comments, warnings, stories you may have. Also if this is deemed off-topic feel free to send any responses to shawn at zekesgarage dot com. Thanks for reading the long post! -- Shawn '69 Corvette 427 4-Speed '69 Chevelle SS 396 4-Speed '69 Charger R/T 383 4-Speed '67 Chevy C-10 3-On The Tree '00 Suzuki GSX-R 750 1-Down, 5-Up
[Chevelle-list] Chevelle Restoration Work Needed
Looking for a Chevy lover to do partial restoration work on 74 chevelle in south florida. Any information or leads are appreciated. Thanks!!! Tony S. (954) 907-6233 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 7:47 PM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 42, Issue 18 Send Chevelle-list mailing list submissions to chevelle-list@chevelles.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest...
Re: [Chevelle-list] Kool It coolant additive
Dale, Check out www.lubegard.com tony - Original Message - From: Dale To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 2:46 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Kool It coolant additive Amazon.com off all places (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007ZDRXK/102-8286914-0182503?v=glancen=15684181) Its made by International Lubricants, INC. http://www.lubegard.com/contact.html Their site doesnt show what retail outlets carry their stuff but maybe you could drop them a line. Dale McIntosh 1967 ChevelleReference CD! http://www.chevellecd.com ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 1:36 PMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Kool It coolant additive Saw on the Speed channel a few weeks ago a coolant additive called Kool It. Supposed to reduce operating temp, and counter the electrolysis generated with dis-similar metals Anbody using it or know where it can be purchased? Krister Meister '66 SS #'s
[Chevelle-list] what year is yours?
1970 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe Original owner w/order form and all papers Original Vehicle: Original paint, engine, interior(strato bucketsw/console), vinyl top, etc. 350 / 300hp with quadrajet, 350 turbo hydramatic Tony
Re: [Chevelle-list] Hot 350/300hp
It's all original with the factory radiator and shroud intact. The fan has no clutch. It's the original fan. tony - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 7:33 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Hot 350/300hp Does it still have the factory radiator shroud in use? Are you using a fan clutch? Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Tony Gavel I have a 350/300hp 70 Chevelle w/auto TH350 and no air. It came from the factory with a 4 blade fan and my water temp reaches 220 at times. Do you guys think replacing the fan with a 6 or7 blade fan would help cool things down? tony
[Chevelle-list] Hot 350/300hp
I have a 350/300hp 70 Chevelle w/auto TH350 and no air. It came from the factory with a 4 blade fan and my water temp reaches 220 at times. Do you guys think replacing the fan with a 7 blade fan would help cool things down? tony
Re: [Chevelle-list] Miss at WOT ???
Just to let you guys know I finally found the miss at
WOT. I replaced plugs, points, condenser, rotor and cap and still no
success. Then I repalaced the coil and the miss is gone. Put the
original Quadrajet back on, set the timing by ear and now she runs great -- no
miss , no ping.
Thanksfor all your help
tony
- Original Message -
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Miss at WOT
???
Is this an electronic ignition or a points distributor?Are we
talking about a WOT condition at lower RPMs or at high RPMs?
The points used to "float" at high rpm's.The distributor lobe is
basically hitting the points rubbing block so fast that there is no time to
close and therefore trigger the coil to make a spark. That's why racers went
to dual point distributors and magnetos.
I'm not that familiar with Holley's but it's possible or "over carb" an
engine. Are you sure you have the right size for the engine and not some
racing monster?
Usually timing would be what I checked first, and sometimes they like to
be more advanced than factory specs in order to run at highest performance. If
you haven't tried it yet, advance ituntil it begins to stumble, then
back off a few degrees, (this will usually be where the engine idles the
fastestand smoothest) thentighten it downand take it
for a test drive.
Steve
- Original Message -----
From:
Tony
Gavel
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: 6/5/2005 9:16:10 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Miss at WOT
???
Hi, Wondering if any of you guys could
offer a suggestion on what could be causing a miss(stumble) at WOT.
It's a 350 / 300hp original 70 Turbo Fire with a Holly. It seems like
a miss at WOTand stumbles, bogs down. I played with the timing
without any results. I don't it's the carb because I tried 3 different
ones and the engine reacts the same with each.Any ideas?
Thanks...tony
Re: [Chevelle-list] Miss at WOT ???
The coil I replaced was the original. I replaced it with an aftermarket coil from Auto Zone. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 10:42 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Miss at WOT ??? Cool, interesting fix. Just curious, was the coil original factory, quality replacement, or aftermarket replacement? Steve - Original Message - From: Tony Gavel To: [EMAIL PROTECTED];The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: 6/10/2005 10:20:54 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Miss at WOT ??? Just to let you guys know I finally found the miss at WOT. I replaced plugs, points, condenser, rotor and cap and still no success. Then I repalaced the coil and the miss is gone. Put the original Quadrajet back on, set the timing by ear and now she runs great -- no miss , no ping. Thanksfor all your help tony
[Chevelle-list] Miss at WOT ???
Hi, Wondering if any of you guys could offer a suggestion on what could be causing a miss(stumble) at WOT. It's a 350 / 300hp original 70 Turbo Fire with a Holly. It seems like a miss at WOTand stumbles, bogs down. I played with the timing without any results. I don't it's the carb because I tried 3 different ones and the engine reacts the same with each.Any ideas? Thanks...tony
Re: [Chevelle-list] Miss at WOT ??? Steve Tom
Steve Tom,
It's a single point distributor. It's the
original. I ordered the car in 1970 and I haven't had any problems until I
started it up this year. It sat all winter in the garage. I rebuilt
the original spread bore750 cfm,tried a Holley Economizer 450 cfm
and a new Holley 650 and I still have the same problem. New plugs and
wires. Distributor cap and rotor are fairly new. If you floor it in
park, it picks up and then misses and sometimes back fires whenI advance
the timing to about 16*. It's worse when I set it to factory specs, 4* but
now backfire. It does the same when you drive it and floor it. I did
put a new fuel pump on and that didn't help. I guess I should change the coil
next.
tony
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Miss at WOT
???
Is this an electronic ignition or a points distributor?Are we
talking about a WOT condition at lower RPMs or at high RPMs?
The points used to "float" at high rpm's.The distributor lobe is
basically hitting the points rubbing block so fast that there is no time to
close and therefore trigger the coil to make a spark. That's why racers went
to dual point distributors and magnetos.
I'm not that familiar with Holley's but it's possible or "over carb" an
engine. Are you sure you have the right size for the engine and not some
racing monster?
Usually timing would be what I checked first, and sometimes they like to
be more advanced than factory specs in order to run at highest performance. If
you haven't tried it yet, advance ituntil it begins to stumble, then
back off a few degrees, (this will usually be where the engine idles the
fastestand smoothest) thentighten it downand take it
for a test drive.
Steve
- Original Message -----
From:
Tony
Gavel
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: 6/5/2005 9:16:10 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Miss at WOT
???
Hi, Wondering if any of you guys could
offer a suggestion on what could be causing a miss(stumble) at WOT.
It's a 350 / 300hp original 70 Turbo Fire with a Holly. It seems like
a miss at WOTand stumbles, bogs down. I played with the timing
without any results. I don't it's the carb because I tried 3 different
ones and the engine reacts the same with each.Any ideas?
Thanks...tony
[Chevelle-list] Saginaw Tranny???
Has anyone had any experience with a Saginaw 4 speed in a 70 Chevelle - pros or cons? I have a Saginaw 4 speed and I was wondering if it's any good compared to a Muncie.Should I want to rebuild it and put it into my 70 which presently has a TH350 auto? Any comments would be appreciated. Thankstony
[Chevelle-list] 70 Tranny Conversion
I would like to convert my TH350 to a 4 speed. Right now I have a 350/300HP Sport Coupe with Strato Buckets and console. Has anyone done this conversion? What would fit andwhere would be a good place to get a tranny? All suggestions welcome. I live in NE PA and haven't seen any Chevelles around here. Thanks...Tony
Re: [Chevelle-list] chrome madness
Seems like everybody wants to blame the pres. for todays economy but how about the people who continually buy over seas products - Stop and Think. - Original Message - From: James Strunk [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 5:17 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] chrome madness Blame Georgie,he is running down this countries economy so fast ,, - Original Message - From: John Nasta [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 2:21 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] chrome madness Unfortunately, this is the time of year when most suppliers restructure their pricing for the new season. The biggest surprise to me has been the dramatic jump in prices on chrome parts. Emblems that were retailing for $59.95 last year are up to as much as $94.95 this year. Wow. Seems like the market has gotten tougher on the business end. One of my suppliers completely folded this winter, and another sold their company. I am also having to remove certain products (esp. all the Original GM stuff) from my database because of scarcity of product and dramatic price fluctuations (both of which get customers P-O-ed). Anyway, seems like the wild west out there right now. You can always tell who the pioneers are. They are the ones with the arrows in their backs :) John Nasta
