Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Rich The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes through a coil in the hot water tank. I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the salt water heat exchanger. I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger. I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the hot water tank but maybe my boat has such a setup which was not functioning when I first got the boat. I did not produce much hot water in the tank by running the engine until I installed that manual valve which allowed me to divert more engine coolant to the coil in the hot water tank. Maybe I had a malfunctioning thermostat in the line but it I did not see one. Based on your advice to Greg, I'll look harder now because that would be preferable to using the manual valve. Is the thermostat that would control this usually found on the engine or the hot water tank? Thanks Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles Sent: August 23, 2012 11:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Thermostat? Rich (mobile) On 2012-08-23, at 22:57, Greg Sutherland bluenosesail...@hotmail.com wrote: We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the batteries and electronics. when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you. Any ideas what the issue may be? Thanks group Greg 87' 33 mk2 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5219 - Release Date: 08/23/12 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List cc smile and insurance
I got the insurance company wrong...Heritage is an Insurance broker. The actual Insurance company is ACE recreational marine insurance. Sorry for the confusion.Does anyone have Ace as their insurance company -- Original Message -- From: djhaug...@juno.com djhaug...@juno.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List cc smile and insurance Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 01:28:12 GMT Okay,I had to chime in as I've decided on insurance. I got quote from BoatUS of $728 and a quote from Heritage Marine Insurance for $387. Heritage specializes in Old Yacht, namely old wooden yachts it seems. The coverage is better too. Boat US - Vessel and Equipment $19,400 - Liability $300,000 - personal effects $0 - Unscheduled Electronic Eqip. $0 - deductible $660Heitage - Boat And Engine $20,000- Liability $500,000 - personal effects $10,000 - Unscheduled Electronic Eqip. $10,000 - deductible $750 It seems like a much better deal. Does anyone here use Heritage? Danny -- Original Message -- From: Oban Lambie oban.lam...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List cc smile and insurance Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 18:47:49 -0600 Another perspective on boat insurance: I have a 29 mk1 which I purchased this spring. #65533; It's a $10k boat in excellent condition and also in Long Island sound. #65533;BoatUS quoted me $550 or so per year for coverage. I use Geico for my auto insurance and asked them for a quote as well. #65533;They transferred me to another Berkshire Hathaway subsidiary called Seaworthy insurance that Geico is in cahoots with in some way. Seaworthy's quote was for $158 per year.#65533; I reviewed both policies side by side, and though I'm not an attorney, they appeared identical. Same deductible, same coverages, same exclusions, same survey requirements. #65533; I asked Seaworthy why they were so much less expensive and they said it was largely to do with my years of being with Geico and my never having made a claim - in addition to my 10+ years of boat ownership.#65533; At any rate, I signed up with Seaworthy and my dealings to date have been totally pleasant. Their agents clearly know boats and dealing with the post-condition and value survey issues was very reasonable and pleasant.#65533; Keep in mind that I drive like an old man and that I haven't broken a boat badly since I was in college, so I can't speak for how#65533;Seaworthy deals with claims. But I'm damn happy to be paying so little for boat insurance! #65533;- Oban Lambie CirceCC 29 MK1East Setauket, New York On Aug 23, 2012, at 1:52 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Congrats! There was a recent thread on whether BoatUS was worth the extra money they charge. #65533;If you are looking for inexpensive insurance start with your auto/home insurer, as there will be multi policy discounts. #65533;Remember, most carriers will run a credit check and it will show as an inquiry on your credit report. Joel On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 3:45 PM, William Hall wh...@alum.mit.edu wrote: Western Long Island Sound, moving from Larchmont to Stamford. Thanks! On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 3:43 PM, Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net wrote: Boat US insurance, or ACE. There are several others who know boats, I am sure others will chime in with their suggestions. #65533;This Agent obviously doesn't know much about sailboats. Did this boat used to reside in Bay City? #65533;Where are you? Bill Coleman CC 39 -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William Hall Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 3:38 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List cc smile and insurance Hi List, I just bought a CC 37. Everything I read tells me the CC smile is just how it goes, and I've seen the cosmetic repair section here. #65533;Keel bolts look beautiful. The inspector told me verbally that it's perfectly fine. But in his written survey, he added this CYA material: I believe the keel to stub crack is fairing compound coming loose and the normal separation due to expansion with recommendations: further investigate and repair as necessary The insurance guy wanted the survey and has said coverage is contingent on further testing (ultrasonic) to determine whether or not that crack is compromising the structural stability of the vessel. Has anyone any idea how ultrasonic testing could relate at all to this? Can anyone point me to material that might convince the insurance guy that there are less expensive means that will tell us more? Or maybe someone can just point me to a better boat insurance agent? Many thanks! Bill ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Dwight: I was referring to the engine coolant thermostat. If that fails open, the engine water temperature will be much lower than normal and so will any heat exchanged water. I have no idea what other mysteries you may have in your particular system. A second thermostat would be unusual. Rich (mobile) On 2012-08-24, at 9:25, dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca wrote: Rich The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes through a coil in the hot water tank. I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the salt water heat exchanger. I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger. I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the hot water tank but maybe my boat has such a setup which was not functioning when I first got the boat. I did not produce much hot water in the tank by running the engine until I installed that manual valve which allowed me to divert more engine coolant to the coil in the hot water tank. Maybe I had a malfunctioning thermostat in the line but it I did not see one. Based on your advice to Greg, I'll look harder now because that would be preferable to using the manual valve. Is the thermostat that would control this usually found on the engine or the hot water tank? Thanks Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles Sent: August 23, 2012 11:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Thermostat? Rich (mobile) On 2012-08-23, at 22:57, Greg Sutherland bluenosesail...@hotmail.com wrote: We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the batteries and electronics. when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you. Any ideas what the issue may be? Thanks group Greg 87' 33 mk2 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5219 - Release Date: 08/23/12 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Does the coolant-into-the-heater loop have its own impellor or is it the standard engine coolant pump? Is it shot? Did the tank suddenly stop producing hot water, or slowly get cooler? How is it when hooked to shore power and is AC heated? It's obviously not an element if heating from shore power is still OK, so I'd look at the hoses, and water pump. Rob -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 9:42 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Dwight: I was referring to the engine coolant thermostat. If that fails open, the engine water temperature will be much lower than normal and so will any heat exchanged water. I have no idea what other mysteries you may have in your particular system. A second thermostat would be unusual. Rich (mobile) On 2012-08-24, at 9:25, dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca wrote: Rich The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes through a coil in the hot water tank. I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the salt water heat exchanger. I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger. I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the hot water tank but maybe my boat has such a setup which was not functioning when I first got the boat. I did not produce much hot water in the tank by running the engine until I installed that manual valve which allowed me to divert more engine coolant to the coil in the hot water tank. Maybe I had a malfunctioning thermostat in the line but it I did not see one. Based on your advice to Greg, I'll look harder now because that would be preferable to using the manual valve. Is the thermostat that would control this usually found on the engine or the hot water tank? Thanks Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles Sent: August 23, 2012 11:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Thermostat? Rich (mobile) On 2012-08-23, at 22:57, Greg Sutherland bluenosesail...@hotmail.com wrote: We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the batteries and electronics. when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you. Any ideas what the issue may be? Thanks group Greg 87' 33 mk2 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5219 - Release Date: 08/23/12 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com The information contained in this email is intended only for the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. Its contents (including any attachments) may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not an intended recipient, you may not use, disclose, disseminate, copy or print its contents. If you received this email in error, please notify the sender by reply email and delete and destroy the message. L’information contenue dans ce courriel est destinée exclusivement aux personnes ou aux entités auxquelles le courriel est adressé. Le contenu de ce courriel (y compris toute pièce jointe) peut renfermer de l’information confidentielle et / ou privilégiée. Si ce message ne vous est pas destiné, vous ne pouvez utiliser, divulguer, diffuser, copier ou imprimer son contenu. Si vous avez reçu ce courriel par erreur, veuillez aviser l’expéditeur en lui faisant parvenir une réponse. De plus, veuillez supprimer et détruire le message. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Dwight, Greg Just some insights to consider...I hope it helps A thermostat would regulate the flow of heating fluid to the hot water tank. I'm not sure of your setup, but it sounds like you may have a hot water tank with a heating water coil submerged in the tank that the engine coolant runs through to heat the water. Typically, the thermostat on the water heater will open or close a circuit to either a pump (not your case) or an actuated valve (would be your case as you only get heating water when the engine is running and your fresh water pump is always on when the engine running). So if your potable hot water tank had a thermostat regulating it's water temp, there should be some kind of actuated valve in the hose running from your heater to where it ties into the engine coolant line. Now, it could tied in series, in other words, it could be part of the engine coolant loop and gets hot water through the Hot water heating coil constantly when the engine is running (which is probably not a good idea and doesn't sound like what you have), or there is a tee somewhere in the coolant hose that the hot water heater gets its heating water from. Anyway, all this dribble to try and help you determine whether or not your hot water tank is thermostat controlled. If the Water Heater is electric it will have a submerged electric heating element, sometimes 2 of them. They do go bad and sometimes produce luke warm water. Especially if there are 2 electric elements and one goes bad. -- Original Message -- From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 09:25:14 -0300 Rich The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes through a coil in the hot water tank. I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the salt water heat exchanger. I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger. I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the hot water tank but maybe my boat has such a setup which was not functioning when I first got the boat. I did not produce much hot water in the tank by running the engine until I installed that manual valve which allowed me to divert more engine coolant to the coil in the hot water tank. Maybe I had a malfunctioning thermostat in the line but it I did not see one. Based on your advice to Greg, I'll look harder now because that would be preferable to using the manual valve. Is the thermostat that would control this usually found on the engine or the hot water tank? Thanks Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles Sent: August 23, 2012 11:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Thermostat? Rich (mobile) On 2012-08-23, at 22:57, Greg Sutherland bluenosesail...@hotmail.com wrote: We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the batteries and electronics. when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you. Any ideas what the issue may be? Thanks group Greg 87' 33 mk2 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5219 - Release Date: 08/23/12 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Edson Steering System
Good luck Bill. The key is a longer tiller handle. Thankfully, ET installation on the 39 is very simple.. Brgds Jack In a message dated 8/24/2012 8:48:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, colt...@verizon.net writes: I see. I was thinking your old rudder was what made it so tough, didn’t realise you had updated. My previous rudder (not original) had the center of the shaft 3” from the leading edge. When I made the third iteration, I made it 5 inches from the leading edge. Much more balanced. I will have to try the tiller sometime to see how tough it really is. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of honeys...@aol.com Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 4:12 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Steering System Bill No, we changed out in 2005 to the new elliptical rudder. My boat was under warranty when we purchased her in Nov of 1975 and CC sent me a new style deeper rudder to replace the original in June of 1976, I had only to return the boat's original unit at my expense. The new style rudder worked a hell of lot better than the original barn door but no where near the performance of this last rudder. The boat is still a b**h to sail with the short emergency tiller installed.. Brgds Jack In a message dated 8/23/2012 3:57:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, colt...@verizon.net writes: Jack, you still have that original barn door rudder don’t you? Bill Coleman CC 39 From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of honeys...@aol.com Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 12:48 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Steering System My boat is fair bit larger than the 35 and the ET is only 40 long, it can be hand steered under power, but a major effort under sail. I have steered a 35 I with the ET as yes. it is easier even with the wheel still attached. i...@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com inline: image001.gifinline: image001.gif___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Dwight, We have the same engine, Universal M4-30 and I find engine temperature tends to run low, especially when the sea water is below 70F, or the engine is idling. If I idle at the dock, the temperature rises to 165 but I don't see the engine temperature reach the normal 190F unless I put some load on the engine. I replaced the thermostat on the engine and got the same result, so I appreciate your valve idea. I would expect the waters of NS would be cooler than New Jersey and that would also effect things? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ - Original Message - From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 8:25:14 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Rich The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes through a coil in the hot water tank. I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the salt water heat exchanger. I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger. I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the hot water tank but maybe my boat has such a setup which was not functioning when I first got the boat. I did not produce much hot water in the tank by running the engine until I installed that manual valve which allowed me to divert more engine coolant to the coil in the hot water tank. Maybe I had a malfunctioning thermostat in the line but it I did not see one. Based on your advice to Greg, I'll look harder now because that would be preferable to using the manual valve. Is the thermostat that would control this usually found on the engine or the hot water tank? Thanks Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles Sent: August 23, 2012 11:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Thermostat? Rich (mobile) On 2012-08-23, at 22:57, Greg Sutherland bluenosesail...@hotmail.com wrote: We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the batteries and electronics. when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you. Any ideas what the issue may be? Thanks group Greg 87' 33 mk2 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5219 - Release Date: 08/23/12 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Water in Mahone Bay is around the 22 degrees Celsius mark these days. From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 10:13 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Dwight, We have the same engine, Universal M4-30 and I find engine temperature tends to run low, especially when the sea water is below 70F, or the engine is idling. If I idle at the dock, the temperature rises to 165 but I don't see the engine temperature reach the normal 190F unless I put some load on the engine. I replaced the thermostat on the engine and got the same result, so I appreciate your valve idea. I would expect the waters of NS would be cooler than New Jersey and that would also effect things? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 8:25:14 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Rich The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes through a coil in the hot water tank. I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the salt water heat exchanger. I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger. I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the hot water tank but maybe my boat has such a setup which was not functioning when I first got the boat. I did not produce much hot water in the tank by running the engine until I installed that manual valve which allowed me to divert more engine coolant to the coil in the hot water tank. Maybe I had a malfunctioning thermostat in the line but it I did not see one. Based on your advice to Greg, I'll look harder now because that would be preferable to using the manual valve. Is the thermostat that would control this usually found on the engine or the hot water tank? Thanks Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles Sent: August 23, 2012 11:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Thermostat? Rich (mobile) On 2012-08-23, at 22:57, Greg Sutherland bluenosesail...@hotmail.com wrote: We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the batteries and electronics. when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you. Any ideas what the issue may be? Thanks group Greg 87' 33 mk2 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5219 - Release Date: 08/23/12 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com The information contained in this email is intended only for the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. Its contents (including any attachments) may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not an intended recipient, you may not use, disclose, disseminate, copy or print its contents. If you received this email in error, please notify the sender by reply email and delete and destroy the message. L’information contenue dans ce courriel est destinée exclusivement aux personnes ou aux entités auxquelles le courriel est adressé. Le contenu de ce courriel (y compris toute pièce jointe) peut renfermer de l’information confidentielle et / ou privilégiée. Si ce message ne vous est pas destiné, vous ne pouvez utiliser, divulguer, diffuser, copier ou imprimer son contenu. Si vous avez reçu ce courriel par erreur, veuillez aviser l’expéditeur en lui faisant parvenir une réponse. De plus, veuillez supprimer et détruire le message. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Checking the in-flow and out-flow hose temperature to the heater by hand might eliminate a couple of possibilities. You can compare the temperature relative to the engine hose coming into the engine thermostat. There is a possibility that there is a vapor lock in the heater hose - depending on the relative height of the heater to the engine this might come about if there was work done on the system or if there is a lower level of coolant which let air into the HW system. ed -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Greg Sutherland Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 9:57 PM To: CandC Subject: Stus-List Hot water heater We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the batteries and electronics. when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you. Any ideas what the issue may be? Thanks group Greg 87' 33 mk2 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
My boat has a separate pair of coolant lines for the heat exchanger and a separate pair of coolant lines for the hot water tank, (supply and return lines for each), that is. So by closing the manual valve that I installed to the heat exchanger, the engine's internal coolant pump is forced to send hot coolant through the coil inside the hot water tank and the cold water in that tank acts for a short time like a heat exchanger. In fact if I carried an unlimited supply of fresh cold water so that I could leave the domestic hot water faucet running continuously that would probably be adequate to keep the engine running cool, but unless there is a separate thermostat somewhere in that loop the engine might run too cold. I always wondered why the domestic hot water set up worked so poorly when I first got the boat but now I am thinking that there is a faulty thermostat somewhere in the line to the hot water tank, if so and it were functioning properly, then while motoring I would always have hot water at some thermostatically controlled temp. I guess most boats with engine coolant heated domestic hot water are like that but I don't know. Now, I think I will start with looking for a thermostat on the hot water tank. Maybe I can get rid of that manual valve that I installed. But if I find a thermostat in the line that is heating the domestic hot water, and it is stuck closed, I don't understand how I could produce hot water better by closing the manual valve to the heat exchanger...there should still be a closed loop to the heating coil inside the hot water tank. More stuff to investigate...more convenience systems onboard means more work, lucky I got time but the spaces where this stuff is located are getting tighter as I get older. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com Sent: August 24, 2012 9:55 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Dwight, Greg Just some insights to consider...I hope it helps A thermostat would regulate the flow of heating fluid to the hot water tank. I'm not sure of your setup, but it sounds like you may have a hot water tank with a heating water coil submerged in the tank that the engine coolant runs through to heat the water. Typically, the thermostat on the water heater will open or close a circuit to either a pump (not your case) or an actuated valve (would be your case as you only get heating water when the engine is running and your fresh water pump is always on when the engine running). So if your potable hot water tank had a thermostat regulating it's water temp, there should be some kind of actuated valve in the hose running from your heater to where it ties into the engine coolant line. Now, it could tied in series, in other words, it could be part of the engine coolant loop and gets hot water through the Hot water heating coil constantly when the engine is running (which is probably not a good idea and doesn't sound like what you have), or there is a tee somewhere in the coolant hose that the hot water heater gets its heating water from. Anyway, all this dribble to try and help you determine whether or not your hot water tank is thermostat controlled. If the Water Heater is electric it will have a submerged electric heating element, sometimes 2 of them. They do go bad and sometimes produce luke warm water. Especially if there are 2 electric elements and one goes bad. -- Original Message -- From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 09:25:14 -0300 Rich The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes through a coil in the hot water tank. I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the salt water heat exchanger. I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger. I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the hot water tank but maybe my boat has such a setup which was not functioning when I first got the boat. I did not produce much hot water in the tank by running the engine until I installed that manual valve which allowed me to divert more engine coolant to the coil in the hot water tank. Maybe I had a malfunctioning thermostat in the line but it I did not see one. Based on your advice to Greg, I'll look harder now because that would be preferable to using the manual valve. Is the thermostat that would control this usually found on the engine or the hot water tank? Thanks Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
Re: Stus-List Battery Setup
I too am on a mooring. First off - GET SOLAR. I have had fantastic results with my 25 watt solar cell and Morningstar charge controller. It is really nice to know you can leave the boat and come back to topped off batteries. Second - The reason for two batteries is nothing to do with deep cycle batteries not starting engines. It is so when the kids turn every single breaker on right before you go ashore and you come back to the battery at 10 volts, you can still start the engine. I sue a Blue Sea combiner like this and it works well : http://bluesea.com/category/78/79/products/7610 Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I Atomic 4 Power :) -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 9:23 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Battery Setup Okay, I'm out on the mooring and the only way of charging my batteries right now is the engine. I currently only have a single battery installed but, I want to add 2 more. The current battery I got last year, brand new and it has seen little use. It is a deep cycle marine battery. I was thinking to get another deep cycle marine battery and have a pair for house power and have another for engine starting. I have a Balmar MaxCharge MC-612 and a Balmar 75 amp alternator and a off-1-both-2 battery switch (pretty simple, right?) I have no AC system, I have no refrigeration or air conditioning or hot water or potable water pumps or pressurized potable water. Just old fashioned light and a couple of cigarette lighter type power outlets. My questions are; 1. do I need a cranking battery for starting with an atomic 4? This single deep cycle I have now seems to be doing the job fine. 2. without a separator, the routine would be, switch to starting battery, start engine, switch to both while running the engine, then switch to house (or off when sailing if no power is needed) when the engine is cut? 3. I think I can get away without the separator for the rest of this season anyway, it is really a convenience, right? Not having to manually switch over to the battery I need. 4. There should be no problem using the A4 engine to charge the batteries if need be, right? I assume thats the reason for the high end alternator and multi-stage marine regulator... I would love to hear all insights, suggestions and comments. We're going cruising to the Buzzards Bay islands for a week and I'm trying to make sure we don't run out of light and cell phone charging during our week in the boat. I'm thinking I'll get some battery operated LED lights as well. I also have these little power pack for phone charging which will also help conserve battery power. I'm just not sure what to expect. Also, I have a little electric trolling motor for the dinghy and picked up a tractor battery to run that. Any thoughts as to whether I can expect to get to shore and back a few times on that? I was just trying to keep the power pack lighter than a full sized deep cell. I do have a gas 4hp engine but it needs work and I don;t have the time to mess with it. Thanks, Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery Setup
Danny I have similar setup to what you plan, except I have 2 six volt golf cart batteries connected in series for house bank and one group 27 deep cycle for starting a 4 cylinder diesel. Worked fine for me four about 5 years now. I never charge both batteries from the alternator at the same time, usually the staring battery at first for a while after startup until the ammeter shows a reduction to very low charge rate and then switch to house bank and charge continuously while under engine power. Always remember to check and top up your battery electrolyte with distilled or deionized water. My batteries stay on board year round and I check fluids and bring them to full charge with a battery charger before winter storage Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com Sent: August 24, 2012 10:23 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Battery Setup Okay, I'm out on the mooring and the only way of charging my batteries right now is the engine. I currently only have a single battery installed but, I want to add 2 more. The current battery I got last year, brand new and it has seen little use. It is a deep cycle marine battery. I was thinking to get another deep cycle marine battery and have a pair for house power and have another for engine starting. I have a Balmar MaxCharge MC-612 and a Balmar 75 amp alternator and a off-1-both-2 battery switch (pretty simple, right?) I have no AC system, I have no refrigeration or air conditioning or hot water or potable water pumps or pressurized potable water. Just old fashioned light and a couple of cigarette lighter type power outlets. My questions are; 1. do I need a cranking battery for starting with an atomic 4? This single deep cycle I have now seems to be doing the job fine. 2. without a separator, the routine would be, switch to starting battery, start engine, switch to both while running the engine, then switch to house (or off when sailing if no power is needed) when the engine is cut? 3. I think I can get away without the separator for the rest of this season anyway, it is really a convenience, right? Not having to manually switch over to the battery I need. 4. There should be no problem using the A4 engine to charge the batteries if need be, right? I assume thats the reason for the high end alternator and multi-stage marine regulator... I would love to hear all insights, suggestions and comments. We're going cruising to the Buzzards Bay islands for a week and I'm trying to make sure we don't run out of light and cell phone charging during our week in the boat. I'm thinking I'll get some battery operated LED lights as well. I also have these little power pack for phone charging which will also help conserve battery power. I'm just not sure what to expect. Also, I have a little electric trolling motor for the dinghy and picked up a tractor battery to run that. Any thoughts as to whether I can expect to get to shore and back a few times on that? I was just trying to keep the power pack lighter than a full sized deep cell. I do have a gas 4hp engine but it needs work and I don;t have the time to mess with it. Thanks, Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5220 - Release Date: 08/23/12 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Dwight, The only thermostat I have is in the engine and I get lots of hot water. I've never seen an external thermostat, but they might exist. Are you getting good pressure? I'd start with the suggestion of feeling the input and output hoses to see if there is a difference in temp. There should not be. If the input is cool, the problem is either a clogged hose or a bad thermostat. If only the output is cool it is either a clogged or air-bound water heater or clogged line downstream. Joel On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 9:36 AM, dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca wrote: My boat has a separate pair of coolant lines for the heat exchanger and a separate pair of coolant lines for the hot water tank, (supply and return lines for each), that is. So by closing the manual valve that I installed to the heat exchanger, the engine's internal coolant pump is forced to send hot coolant through the coil inside the hot water tank and the cold water in that tank acts for a short time like a heat exchanger. In fact if I carried an unlimited supply of fresh cold water so that I could leave the domestic hot water faucet running continuously that would probably be adequate to keep the engine running cool, but unless there is a separate thermostat somewhere in that loop the engine might run too cold. I always wondered why the domestic hot water set up worked so poorly when I first got the boat but now I am thinking that there is a faulty thermostat somewhere in the line to the hot water tank, if so and it were functioning properly, then while motoring I would always have hot water at some thermostatically controlled temp. I guess most boats with engine coolant heated domestic hot water are like that but I don't know. Now, I think I will start with looking for a thermostat on the hot water tank. Maybe I can get rid of that manual valve that I installed. But if I find a thermostat in the line that is heating the domestic hot water, and it is stuck closed, I don't understand how I could produce hot water better by closing the manual valve to the heat exchanger...there should still be a closed loop to the heating coil inside the hot water tank. More stuff to investigate...more convenience systems onboard means more work, lucky I got time but the spaces where this stuff is located are getting tighter as I get older. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com Sent: August 24, 2012 9:55 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Dwight, Greg Just some insights to consider...I hope it helps A thermostat would regulate the flow of heating fluid to the hot water tank. I'm not sure of your setup, but it sounds like you may have a hot water tank with a heating water coil submerged in the tank that the engine coolant runs through to heat the water. Typically, the thermostat on the water heater will open or close a circuit to either a pump (not your case) or an actuated valve (would be your case as you only get heating water when the engine is running and your fresh water pump is always on when the engine running). So if your potable hot water tank had a thermostat regulating it's water temp, there should be some kind of actuated valve in the hose running from your heater to where it ties into the engine coolant line. Now, it could tied in series, in other words, it could be part of the engine coolant loop and gets hot water through the Hot water heating coil constantly when the engine is running (which is probably not a good idea and doesn't sound like what you have), or there is a tee somewhere in the coolant hose that the hot water heater gets its heating water from. Anyway, all this dribble to try and help you determine whether or not your hot water tank is thermostat controlled. If the Water Heater is electric it will have a submerged electric heating element, sometimes 2 of them. They do go bad and sometimes produce luke warm water. Especially if there are 2 electric elements and one goes bad. -- Original Message -- From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 09:25:14 -0300 Rich The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes through a coil in the hot water tank. I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the salt water heat exchanger. I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger. I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the
Re: Stus-List Battery Setup
Look into Balmar's Digital Duo. Make life simple. 1981 40-2 David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 cell -Original Message- From: djhaug...@juno.com Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 13:23:13 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Battery Setup Okay, I'm out on the mooring and the only way of charging my batteries right now is the engine. I currently only have a single battery installed but, I want to add 2 more. The current battery I got last year, brand new and it has seen little use. It is a deep cycle marine battery. I was thinking to get another deep cycle marine battery and have a pair for house power and have another for engine starting. I have a Balmar MaxCharge MC-612 and a Balmar 75 amp alternator and a off-1-both-2 battery switch (pretty simple, right?) I have no AC system, I have no refrigeration or air conditioning or hot water or potable water pumps or pressurized potable water. Just old fashioned light and a couple of cigarette lighter type power outlets. My questions are; 1. do I need a cranking battery for starting with an atomic 4? This single deep cycle I have now seems to be doing the job fine. 2. without a separator, the routine would be, switch to starting battery, start engine, switch to both while running the engine, then switch to house (or off when sailing if no power is needed) when the engine is cut? 3. I think I can get away without the separator for the rest of this season anyway, it is really a convenience, right? Not having to manually switch over to the battery I need. 4. There should be no problem using the A4 engine to charge the batteries if need be, right? I assume thats the reason for the high end alternator and multi-stage marine regulator... I would love to hear all insights, suggestions and comments. We're going cruising to the Buzzards Bay islands for a week and I'm trying to make sure we don't run out of light and cell phone charging during our week in the boat. I'm thinking I'll get some battery operated LED lights as well. I also have these little power pack for phone charging which will also help conserve battery power. I'm just not sure what to expect. Also, I have a little electric trolling motor for the dinghy and picked up a tractor battery to run that. Any thoughts as to whether I can expect to get to shore and back a few times on that? I was just trying to keep the power pack lighter than a full sized deep cell. I do have a gas 4hp engine but it needs work and I don;t have the time to mess with it. Thanks, Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List cc smile and insurance
I have had ACE as my carrier for 10 years. Have had only one claim in 10 years – where they paid for keel / stub separation to be repaired! That, by itself, “paid” for 10 years of potentially higher premiums (never actually shopped around) Jonathan – Indigo – 35MkIII – Southport CT _ From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 8:37 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List cc smile and insurance I got the insurance company wrong...Heritage is an Insurance broker. The actual Insurance company is ACE recreational marine insurance. Sorry for the confusion. Does anyone have Ace as their insurance company -- Original Message -- From: djhaug...@juno.com djhaug...@juno.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List cc smile and insurance Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 01:28:12 GMT Okay, I had to chime in as I've decided on insurance. I got quote from BoatUS of $728 and a quote from Heritage Marine Insurance for $387. Heritage specializes in Old Yacht, namely old wooden yachts it seems. The coverage is better too. Boat US - Vessel and Equipment $19,400 - Liability $300,000 - personal effects $0 - Unscheduled Electronic Eqip. $0 - deductible $660 Heitage - Boat And Engine $20,000- Liability $500,000 - personal effects $10,000 - Unscheduled Electronic Eqip. $10,000 - deductible $750 It seems like a much better deal. Does anyone here use Heritage? Danny -- Original Message -- From: Oban Lambie oban.lam...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List cc smile and insurance Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 18:47:49 -0600 Another perspective on boat insurance: I have a 29 mk1 which I purchased this spring. � It's a $10k boat in excellent condition and also in Long Island sound. �BoatUS quoted me $550 or so per year for coverage. I use Geico for my auto insurance and asked them for a quote as well. �They transferred me to another Berkshire Hathaway subsidiary called Seaworthy insurance that Geico is in cahoots with in some way. Seaworthy's quote was for $158 per year.� I reviewed both policies side by side, and though I'm not an attorney, they appeared identical. Same deductible, same coverages, same exclusions, same survey requirements. � I asked Seaworthy why they were so much less expensive and they said it was largely to do with my years of being with Geico and my never having made a claim - in addition to my 10+ years of boat ownership.� At any rate, I signed up with Seaworthy and my dealings to date have been totally pleasant. Their agents clearly know boats and dealing with the post-condition and value survey issues was very reasonable and pleasant.� Keep in mind that I drive like an old man and that I haven't broken a boat badly since I was in college, so I can't speak for how�Seaworthy deals with claims. But I'm damn happy to be paying so little for boat insurance! �- Oban Lambie Circe CC 29 MK1 East Setauket, New York On Aug 23, 2012, at 1:52 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Congrats! There was a recent thread on whether BoatUS was worth the extra money they charge. �If you are looking for inexpensive insurance start with your auto/home insurer, as there will be multi policy discounts. �Remember, most carriers will run a credit check and it will show as an inquiry on your credit report. Joel On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 3:45 PM, William Hall wh...@alum.mit.edu wrote: Western Long Island Sound, moving from Larchmont to Stamford. Thanks! On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 3:43 PM, Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net wrote: Boat US insurance, or ACE. There are several others who know boats, I am sure others will chime in with their suggestions. �This Agent obviously doesn't know much about sailboats. Did this boat used to reside in Bay City? �Where are you? Bill Coleman CC 39 -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William Hall Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 3:38 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List cc smile and insurance Hi List, I just bought a CC 37. Everything I read tells me the CC smile is just how it goes, and I've seen the cosmetic repair section here. �Keel bolts look beautiful. The inspector told me verbally that it's perfectly fine. But in his written survey, he added this CYA material: I believe the keel to stub crack is fairing compound coming loose and the normal separation due to expansion with recommendations: further investigate and repair as necessary The insurance guy wanted the survey and has said coverage is contingent on further testing (ultrasonic) to determine whether or not that crack is compromising the structural stability of the vessel. Has anyone any idea how ultrasonic testing could
Re: Stus-List cc smile and insurance
There are two theories of insurance: 1 – You want a company experienced with maritime insurance. They’ll understand the differences between getting a rig replaced and a new fender on a car. 2 – You want a company that has no clue at all about offshore sailboats and is dumb enough to pay for anything. So far I have been using #1, but I knew of someone that got a new rudder for a CC 41 using theory #2. I had great luck with BOATUS covering damage from hitting debris that bent the prop shaft and damaged the prop. Note that BOATUS holds SALVAGE and HULL coverage separate. If your policy does not do this, you may use up all your coverage on salvage before anything gets fixed. I once had a powerboat that sank and the coverage was through the homeowners. Their claims adjuster WAS THE LAST ONE TO USE THE BOAT so it went through no issue ROFLMAO. I am guessing companies are going to be investigating total loss claims a bit more than before, given the number of boats nowadays worth far more as an insurance claim then they ever could be sold for ☹ Joe Della Barba Coquina From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 10:09 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List cc smile and insurance I have had ACE as my carrier for 10 years. Have had only one claim in 10 years – where they paid for keel / stub separation to be repaired! That, by itself, “paid” for 10 years of potentially higher premiums (never actually shopped around) Jonathan – Indigo – 35MkIII – Southport CT From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]mailto:[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.commailto:djhaug...@juno.com Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 8:37 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List cc smile and insurance I got the insurance company wrong...Heritage is an Insurance broker. The actual Insurance company is ACE recreational marine insurance. Sorry for the confusion. Does anyone have Ace as their insurance company -- Original Message -- From: djhaug...@juno.commailto:djhaug...@juno.com djhaug...@juno.commailto:djhaug...@juno.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List cc smile and insurance Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 01:28:12 GMT Okay, I had to chime in as I've decided on insurance. I got quote from BoatUS of $728 and a quote from Heritage Marine Insurance for $387. Heritage specializes in Old Yacht, namely old wooden yachts it seems. The coverage is better too. Boat US - Vessel and Equipment $19,400 - Liability $300,000 - personal effects $0 - Unscheduled Electronic Eqip. $0 - deductible $660 Heitage - Boat And Engine $20,000- Liability $500,000 - personal effects $10,000 - Unscheduled Electronic Eqip. $10,000 - deductible $750 It seems like a much better deal. Does anyone here use Heritage? Danny -- Original Message -- From: Oban Lambie oban.lam...@gmail.commailto:oban.lam...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List cc smile and insurance Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 18:47:49 -0600 Another perspective on boat insurance: I have a 29 mk1 which I purchased this spring. � It's a $10k boat in excellent condition and also in Long Island sound. �BoatUS quoted me $550 or so per year for coverage. I use Geico for my auto insurance and asked them for a quote as well. �They transferred me to another Berkshire Hathaway subsidiary called Seaworthy insurance that Geico is in cahoots with in some way. Seaworthy's quote was for $158 per year.� I reviewed both policies side by side, and though I'm not an attorney, they appeared identical. Same deductible, same coverages, same exclusions, same survey requirements. � I asked Seaworthy why they were so much less expensive and they said it was largely to do with my years of being with Geico and my never having made a claim - in addition to my 10+ years of boat ownership.� At any rate, I signed up with Seaworthy and my dealings to date have been totally pleasant. Their agents clearly know boats and dealing with the post-condition and value survey issues was very reasonable and pleasant.� Keep in mind that I drive like an old man and that I haven't broken a boat badly since I was in college, so I can't speak for how�Seaworthy deals with claims. But I'm damn happy to be paying so little for boat insurance! �- Oban Lambie Circe CC 29 MK1 East Setauket, New York On Aug 23, 2012, at 1:52 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.commailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Congrats! There was a recent thread on whether BoatUS was worth the extra money they charge. �If you are looking for inexpensive insurance start with your auto/home insurer, as there will
Re: Stus-List Battery Setup
The main reason for a separate starting and house batteries is that they are of different type (construction). the starting battery is supposed to give you high output (100A ?) for a short time, but it hates to be discharged. he house battery should be deep -cycle, I.e. it allows to be discharged quite a bit (at least, down to 50% or even lower) without damage, but it does not like high output that might be required to start an engine (I don't have an inboard, so I don't have the problem). If you run high current through a deep-cycle battery you may damage the plates. There are batteries that would work fine in both situations (some AGMs), but I don't think you have any of those. Btw. if you go solar, don't skimp on the regulator. Without one or with a cheap one, you can kill the battery in no time. Don't ask how I know. Marek s/v Fennel (CC 24) Ottawa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery Setup
I used to be a battery dealer. You can feel free to start engines from deep cycle batteries. It won't hurt them. They are just relatively large and heavy for a given CCA or MCCA ( (marine)cold cranking amperage). My start battery is a U1 size. You can pick it up in one hand. Joe Della Barba From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 12:28 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Setup The main reason for a separate starting and house batteries is that they are of different type (construction). the starting battery is supposed to give you high output (100A ?) for a short time, but it hates to be discharged. he house battery should be deep -cycle, I.e. it allows to be discharged quite a bit (at least, down to 50% or even lower) without damage, but it does not like high output that might be required to start an engine (I don't have an inboard, so I don't have the problem). If you run high current through a deep-cycle battery you may damage the plates. There are batteries that would work fine in both situations (some AGMs), but I don't think you have any of those. Btw. if you go solar, don't skimp on the regulator. Without one or with a cheap one, you can kill the battery in no time. Don't ask how I know. Marek s/v Fennel (CC 24) Ottawa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery Setup
Thats good info...So, even though the deep cells start the engine fine, it's not really the greatest idea to use them that way? I would like to go with a solar charging system and some recommendations would be great! -- Original Message -- From: Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Setup Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 12:28:17 -0400 The main reason for a separate starting and house batteries is that they are of different type (construction). the starting battery is supposed to give you high output (100A ?) for a short time, but it hates to be discharged. he house battery should be deep -cycle, I.e. it allows to be discharged quite a bit (at least, down to 50% or even lower) without damage, but it does not like high output that might be required to start an engine (I don't have an inboard, so I don't have the problem). If you run high current through a deep-cycle battery you may damage the plates. There are batteries that would work fine in both situations (some AGMs), but I don't think you have any of those. Btw. if you go solar, don't skimp on the regulator. Without one or with a cheap one, you can kill the battery in no time. Don't ask how I know. Mareks/v Fennel (CC 24)Ottawa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Battery Setup - now Solar Charging
Two key things with solar 1, Get an MPPT regulator - makes a huge difference in charging efficiency. 2. Get the panels in direct sunlight. - even having a shadow the thickness of the boom across a 4' long panel will take away about 60% of the amps/watts you get out of it. My mizzen boom sometimes casts a small shadow on my 130W panel, and even in the Carib, it'll only put out about 3 amps @12V, then I drop the boom and it'll shoot up to over 10. Love my solar. Wish I had more of it. Cheers Colin On 8/24/12, Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.ca wrote: This woman has the coolest mounting for her solar panels that I have ever seen. Something I might want to duplicate some day. The rest of the video is a description and example of a well designed system in use, along with some general comments about solar and wind power on sailboats. Rebecca has posted many videos of her adventures and life aboard Angel, as she sails the gulf coast and Keys of Florida. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esFgjdzVQvwfeature=channellist=UL -Original Message- From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 1:26 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Setup Thats good info...So, even though the deep cells start the engine fine, it's not really the greatest idea to use them that way? I would like to go with a solar charging system and some recommendations would be great! -- Original Message -- From: Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Setup Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 12:28:17 -0400 The main reason for a separate starting and house batteries is that they are of different type (construction). the starting battery is supposed to give you high output (100A ?) for a short time, but it hates to be discharged. he house battery should be deep -cycle, I.e. it allows to be discharged quite a bit (at least, down to 50% or even lower) without damage, but it does not like high output that might be required to start an engine (I don't have an inboard, so I don't have the problem). If you run high current through a deep-cycle battery you may damage the plates. There are batteries that would work fine in both situations (some AGMs), but I don't think you have any of those. Btw. if you go solar, don't skimp on the regulator. Without one or with a cheap one, you can kill the battery in no time. Don't ask how I know. Marek s/v Fennel (CC 24) Ottawa -- Sent from my mobile device ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
