Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control

[Jeffrey Nelson]

Mine's like that as well. It took a little getting used to. Figured out a baby 
finger from bottom is 
idle, so it hasn't been annoying enough to change.

On 05/22/13, Knowles Rich   wrote:
> Don't you find that annoying when docking and changing direction? 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On 2013-05-22, at 17:05, "Gary Nylander"  wrote:
> 
> > My Yanmar has the throttle set so low that when you throttle down to 
> > nothing, it stops.
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
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Re: Stus-List 2GM 15 dies when I put it in Fwd

[Jeffrey Nelson]

Interesting problem. Mine doesn't do that, so there must be a cause. Do you 
have a folding prop or fixed?

Something is causing a lot of extra load.
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30

On 05/22/13, Curtis   wrote:
> I need help!!! I crank up the 2GM15 let her come to operating temp. I idel up 
> to around 900 and slip her into gear and it stalls out unless I goose the 
> fuel. This is a problem. I don't have this problem in REV. But I cant operate 
> a 8 thousand pound boat in swift currents, In close quarters. Is there 
> something that can be don to fix this problem? Is this a problem with the 
> C&C30 MK1 of centered shaft and engine alignment? 
>  The prop is clean.
> The Transmission turns by hand.
> There is oil in the transmission. 
> 
> 
> Help...
> 
> 
> -- 
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; 
> the realist adjusts the sails.” 
>  
>
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Re: Stus-List Halifax

[Jeffrey Nelson]

I'm in Halifax, Armdale if you want a tour of the harbour.

On 05/22/13, Stevan Plavsa   wrote:
> That's very generous and also awesome .. and another reason to visit!I may 
> take you up on it one day, just so long as there's room for my girlfriend :)
> 
> 
>  Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
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Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control

[Edd Schillay]

My old 34 was like that too. 

Problem was getting a baby finger without raising the attention of the law 
enforcement. :-)


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5

On May 23, 2013, at 8:23 AM, Jeffrey Nelson  wrote:

Mine's like that as well.  It took a little getting used to.  Figured out a 
baby finger from bottom is 
idle, so it hasn't been annoying enough to change.

On 05/22/13, Knowles Rich  wrote:
> 
> Don't you find that annoying when docking and changing direction?  
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On 2013-05-22, at 17:05, "Gary Nylander"  wrote:
> 
> > My Yanmar has the throttle set so low that when you throttle down to 
> > nothing, it stops.
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
--
Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Halifax

[Stevan Plavsa]

Thanks Jeff, I might take you both up on the offer!
Now to get some time off work that won't be dominated by projects

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 8:39 AM, Jeffrey Nelson wrote:

> I'm in Halifax, Armdale if you want a tour of the harbour.
>
> On 05/22/13, *Stevan Plavsa *  wrote:
>
> That's very generous and also awesome .. and another reason to visit!
> I may take you up on it one day, just so long as there's room for my
> girlfriend :)
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
>
> --
> Cheers,
>Jeff Nelson
>Muir Caileag
>C&C 30
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR]

Erik,

I tried it once, with mixed results.

I found that the forward most keel bolt on my boat was missing it's nut.
Not sure how that occurred. Maybe they never installed it in the
factory. It was underneath a screwed down floorboard, so I can
understand why it might have been missed.
So I bought a 3/4" nut, put it on and cranked it down. I was in the
water at the time.

Then I heard a little "snap crackle pop" and a dribble of water started
coming from that bolt.  It wasn't leaking before. I had cracked the
seal. :(

So I backed it off, dried it as best I could and squeezed an ungodly
amount of caulking in there (Lifecaulk if I recall), and put the nut
back on and re-torqued it.  It sealed!

In the next off season I did it properly, out of the water.

It can be done waterborne, but as you see above...it may make the
problem worse.


So have you deduced that the leak is in fact from a keel bolt?  There
are no other openings down there.  

If you are not 100% sure it's from a keel bolt, I'd avoid breaking the
seal on them.

Just my 2cents.

-Keith

-Original Message-
From: Erik Hillenmeyer [mailto:erik_hawk...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 17:25
To: Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

Keith,
 
The tanks are empty, I never filled them.  The water is crystal clear
(thanks to Zebra mussels) Lake Michigan water - no fuel, oil, etc.
 
I am not completely convinced it isn't finding it's way to the stringer
from elsewhere, but I just can't prove it.  I've removed all the floor
boards and the the thing is just bone dry everywhere except inside that
limber hole.  in fact, if i stick my finger in the cutout in the
stringer for the bilge hose, which is several inches to port of the
limber hole it is dry, so it almost has to be coming from below.
 
My shower pump was straight forward, hose from the shower sump to a pump
under the sink and up to a thru hull at the toe rail.  I disabled this
yesterday because i installed an automatic bilge pump and float switch
to keep up with the water and the only above the water line thru hull
available was the shower drain pump - i don't use it anyway.  In off
season I'll maybe add a thru hull and reattach it.
 
Thanks for the input!  Any opinion on tightening keel bolts in the water
- I cannot get a conclusive answer on this.  Some sources say do it and
some say never.  I've seen it argued on several forums, but haven't
formed my own opinion yet...
 
Thanks,
 
Erik

From: "Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR" 
To: Erik Hillenmeyer ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 2:51 PM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak


Erik,

I've been mulling over your situation.

Here's my thoughts:

You indicate that it seems like the water is originating from somewhere
*inside* the stringer. We know that there are no keel bolts in there,
nor are there any openings to the ocean there...and it's in front of the
last keel bolt, so it seems unlikely (to me) that it's a grounding
problem.
So...where would water come from *inside* the stringer?

On my 35-3, they've run all the water hoses/pipes thru large holes in
the stringers, drilled maybe 1" or so down from the top.
If one of those pipes has a weeping leak where it passes over the
perhaps sharp edge of the hole drilled, it could seem like the water is
originating in there.  Then gravity just makes the water tanks drip into
the bilge.
It's been a few days...at 2.5 gallons a day, your water tanks should be
noticeably low if this was the source. To test, put two different food
colors (or two different liquors) in the tanks, and close the valves at
the water pump so they aren't cross-connected, then wait it out. What
color/taste is the bilge?

Another possibility along these lines is an extra bilge pump pickup...on
my 35-3 there is a shower sump pump for the shower in the head. But
somewhere along the line (maybe at the factory) they put a 3-way valve
in, then ran a hose thru the bilge to a point between the mast and
engine, and there is a pickup there too. (it's my "aft" bilge pump
pickup)
If this was deranged like above (leaky hose/fitting), or if there was
some sort of siphon being set up from the shower to the bilge via the
overboard lines? It's a stretch...but maybe. 

-Keith Morgenstern
C&C 35-3 cb


-Original Message-
From: Erik Hillenmeyer [mailto:erik_hawk...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 17:03
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

Hello,

Been following on here for a while but never posted.

I have a new-to-me 1984 C&C 35 MKIII on Lake Michigan.  When we launched
six days ago I noticed a large amount of water in the bilge when I would
go to the boat.  Approximately 2.5 gallons every 24 hours.  I have
narrowed the leak down to what I assume is a hull/keel joint issue.  

After checking all the obvious sources for this much water (thru hull,
tanks, etc, etc) I finally noticed that all the water was coming from a
limber hole i

Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC

[Rick Brass]

I recall the conversation about a get together at the Annapolis Sailboat
Show in October. But I can't recall if any details were ever firmed up. 

 

But Joe Della Barba invited us all to the annual regatta at this club on the
Corsica River (Eastern Shore across from Baltimore/Annapolis). With so many
of us in the middle and upper Chesapeake, it could be a really nice
get-together.  

 

I'm going to be the bay for a while this summer and am arranging my schedule
to do the Baltimore Light race
http://www.cbyra.org/RaceInfo/2012/206/20120728%20-%20206%20-%20CRYC%20Annua
l%20Race%20Over-NOR_GSI-20120307a%20-%20FINAL.pdf and the get together at
the CRYC Annual Regatta over the weekend of July 26-28
http://www.cryc.org/annual.htm  .

 

I want to thank Joe Della Barba for inviting us all to a get together at his
club, and especially for the help he has given me in getting information so
I can get registered.

 

I'm planning a cruise to the Chesapeake, but will need to drop the boat for
about three weeks and return home in early July. I plan to leave the boat
around June 28th, and return on July 22nd or 23rd  to do the Baltimore Light
race on July 27th and attend the C&C Owners rendezvous at CRYC, so I'm
looking for a spot for the boat that is within reach of Baltimore and offers
some cruising destinations in the area. Something in the area between
Solomons and Baltimore would seem practical..

 

Imzadi is a C&C 38. Beam is 12' and the draft is 5'6". I belong to a couple
of clubs in my area that have reciprocity through Yacht Clubs of America, in
case anyone knows of a club that offers reciprocity.

 

Could any listers let me know if you have a suggestion for space available,
and how I would make arrangements? It could be a private dock, a marina, or
a club. 

 

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard
N. Bush
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 10:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous?

 

I thought there was some planning in progress for a Chesapeake Rendezvous
for this fall, I cannot find any mention of it on the photo album site; is
it still a go? If so, are there any dates or other details available? Thanks

Richard

1987 33-II Ohio River, Mile 584;


Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 
Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
502-584-7255

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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR]

If we are talking about mystery leaks.I have one coming from the
overhead near the nav desk.  It's in the extreme outboard, about 1-inch
aft of the electrical panel.  It drips into that little shelf.  I cannot
find any leaking bolts thru the deck anywhere aft of that, and the shape
of the headliner would seem to make the electrical panel a high point -
like the continental divide.

I honestly suspect that it's coming thru an electrical cables' sheath.
but the only wiring that "leaves the boat" back there is the stern
light, which is inside it's fixture...it's a mystery.

-Keith


-Original Message-
From: Graham Collins [mailto:cnclistforw...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 20:25
To: Erik Hillenmeyer; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

Hi Erik
I would tighten it while in the water, it is so unlikely to result in a
bad outcome that I don't see a reason why you wouldn't try it.

I remain baffled though as to the path the water is taking.  A leak at
the keel stub to lead joint should come in at a bolt.  For it to get up
under that stringer is a mystery to me (but then I have a leak into my
hanging locker that I am unable to find, so what do I know???).

Good luck!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2013-05-22 6:24 PM, Erik Hillenmeyer wrote:


Keith,
 
The tanks are empty, I never filled them.  The water is crystal
clear (thanks to Zebra mussels) Lake Michigan water - no fuel, oil, etc.
 
I am not completely convinced it isn't finding it's way to the
stringer from elsewhere, but I just can't prove it.  I've removed all
the floor boards and the the thing is just bone dry everywhere except
inside that limber hole.  in fact, if i stick my finger in the cutout in
the stringer for the bilge hose, which is several inches to port of the
limber hole it is dry, so it almost has to be coming from below.
 
My shower pump was straight forward, hose from the shower sump
to a pump under the sink and up to a thru hull at the toe rail.  I
disabled this yesterday because i installed an automatic bilge pump and
float switch to keep up with the water and the only above the water line
thru hull available was the shower drain pump - i don't use it anyway.
In off season I'll maybe add a thru hull and reattach it.
 
Thanks for the input!  Any opinion on tightening keel bolts in
the water - I cannot get a conclusive answer on this.  Some sources say
do it and some say never.  I've seen it argued on several forums, but
haven't formed my own opinion yet...
 
Thanks,
 
Erik

From: "Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR"
  
To: Erik Hillenmeyer 
 ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 2:51 PM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak


Erik,

I've been mulling over your situation.

Here's my thoughts:

You indicate that it seems like the water is originating from
somewhere
*inside* the stringer. We know that there are no keel bolts in
there,
nor are there any openings to the ocean there...and it's in
front of the
last keel bolt, so it seems unlikely (to me) that it's a
grounding
problem.
So...where would water come from *inside* the stringer?

On my 35-3, they've run all the water hoses/pipes thru large
holes in
the stringers, drilled maybe 1" or so down from the top.
If one of those pipes has a weeping leak where it passes over
the
perhaps sharp edge of the hole drilled, it could seem like the
water is
originating in there.  Then gravity just makes the water tanks
drip into
the bilge.
It's been a few days...at 2.5 gallons a day, your water tanks
should be
noticeably low if this was the source. To test, put two
different food
colors (or two different liquors) in the tanks, and close the
valves at
the water pump so they aren't cross-connected, then wait it out.
What
color/taste is the bilge?

Another possibility along these lines is an extra bilge pump
pickup...on
my 35-3 there is a shower sump pump for the shower in the head.
But
somewhere along the line (maybe at the factory) they put a 3-way
valve
in, then ran a hose thru the bilge to a point between the mast
and
engine, and there is a pickup there too. (it's my "aft" bilge
pump
pickup)
If this was deranged like above (leaky hose/fitting), or if
there was
some sort of siphon being set up from the shower to the bilge
via the
overboard lines? It's a stretch...but maybe. 

-Keith Morgenstern
C&C 35-3 cb


-Original Message-
From: Erik Hillenmeyer [mailto:erik_hawk...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: 

Re: Stus-List 2GM 15 dies when I put it in Fwd

[Martin Kane]

I disconnected the shift cable at where it is attached to the transmission
on my 2GM15 once and when I reconnected it I experienced erratic performance
similar to what you describe. The issue was that the cable must be precisely
positioned so that the movement of the shift lever is exactly as described
in the YANMAR manual. After I adjusted the linkage to achieve the 30mm
stroke specified by YANMAR, it worked perfectly again. Note the 30mm is for
when you are using the bottom hole on the shift lever. If using the top hole
the required throw is 35mm.

Martin

C&C29-2

MCC 

 

From: Jeffrey Nelson [mailto:nelson2...@eastlink.ca] 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2GM 15 dies when I put it in Fwd

 

Interesting problem.  Mine doesn't do that, so there must be a cause.  Do
you have a folding prop or fixed?

Something is causing a lot of extra load.
--
Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30

On 05/22/13, Curtis mailto:cpt.b...@gmail.com> > wrote:

I need help!!! I crank up the 2GM15 let her come to operating temp. I idel
up to around 900 and slip her into gear and it stalls out unless I goose the
fuel. This is a problem. I don't have this problem in REV. But I cant
operate a 8 thousand pound boat in swift currents, In close quarters.  Is
there something that can be don to fix this problem? Is this a problem with
the C&C30 MK1 of centered shaft and engine alignment? 

The prop is clean.

The Transmission turns by hand.

There is oil in the transmission. 

 

Help...

 

-- 
"The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change;
the realist adjusts the sails." 

___
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Joel Aronson]

Keith,

Gennie track or toe rail loose?

Joel


On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:21 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR <
keith.morgenst...@navy.mil> wrote:

> If we are talking about mystery leaks.I have one coming from the
> overhead near the nav desk.  It's in the extreme outboard, about 1-inch
> aft of the electrical panel.  It drips into that little shelf.  I cannot
> find any leaking bolts thru the deck anywhere aft of that, and the shape
> of the headliner would seem to make the electrical panel a high point -
> like the continental divide.
>
> I honestly suspect that it's coming thru an electrical cables' sheath.
> but the only wiring that "leaves the boat" back there is the stern
> light, which is inside it's fixture...it's a mystery.
>
> -Keith
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Graham Collins [mailto:cnclistforw...@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 20:25
> To: Erik Hillenmeyer; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
>
> Hi Erik
> I would tighten it while in the water, it is so unlikely to result in a
> bad outcome that I don't see a reason why you wouldn't try it.
>
> I remain baffled though as to the path the water is taking.  A leak at
> the keel stub to lead joint should come in at a bolt.  For it to get up
> under that stringer is a mystery to me (but then I have a leak into my
> hanging locker that I am unable to find, so what do I know???).
>
> Good luck!
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2013-05-22 6:24 PM, Erik Hillenmeyer wrote:
>
>
> Keith,
>
> The tanks are empty, I never filled them.  The water is crystal
> clear (thanks to Zebra mussels) Lake Michigan water - no fuel, oil, etc.
>
> I am not completely convinced it isn't finding it's way to the
> stringer from elsewhere, but I just can't prove it.  I've removed all
> the floor boards and the the thing is just bone dry everywhere except
> inside that limber hole.  in fact, if i stick my finger in the cutout in
> the stringer for the bilge hose, which is several inches to port of the
> limber hole it is dry, so it almost has to be coming from below.
>
> My shower pump was straight forward, hose from the shower sump
> to a pump under the sink and up to a thru hull at the toe rail.  I
> disabled this yesterday because i installed an automatic bilge pump and
> float switch to keep up with the water and the only above the water line
> thru hull available was the shower drain pump - i don't use it anyway.
> In off season I'll maybe add a thru hull and reattach it.
>
> Thanks for the input!  Any opinion on tightening keel bolts in
> the water - I cannot get a conclusive answer on this.  Some sources say
> do it and some say never.  I've seen it argued on several forums, but
> haven't formed my own opinion yet...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Erik
>
> From: "Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR"
>  
> To: Erik Hillenmeyer 
>  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 2:51 PM
> Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
>
>
> Erik,
>
> I've been mulling over your situation.
>
> Here's my thoughts:
>
> You indicate that it seems like the water is originating from
> somewhere
> *inside* the stringer. We know that there are no keel bolts in
> there,
> nor are there any openings to the ocean there...and it's in
> front of the
> last keel bolt, so it seems unlikely (to me) that it's a
> grounding
> problem.
> So...where would water come from *inside* the stringer?
>
> On my 35-3, they've run all the water hoses/pipes thru large
> holes in
> the stringers, drilled maybe 1" or so down from the top.
> If one of those pipes has a weeping leak where it passes over
> the
> perhaps sharp edge of the hole drilled, it could seem like the
> water is
> originating in there.  Then gravity just makes the water tanks
> drip into
> the bilge.
> It's been a few days...at 2.5 gallons a day, your water tanks
> should be
> noticeably low if this was the source. To test, put two
> different food
> colors (or two different liquors) in the tanks, and close the
> valves at
> the water pump so they aren't cross-connected, then wait it out.
> What
> color/taste is the bilge?
>
> Another possibility along these lines is an extra bilge pump
> pickup...on
> my 35-3 there is a shower sump pump for the shower in the head.
> But
> somewhere along the line (maybe at the factory) they put a 3-way
> valve
> in, then ran a hose thru the bilge to a point between the mast
> and
> engine, and there is a pickup there too. (it's my "aft" bilge
> pump
> pickup)
> If this was deranged like above (leaky hose/fitting), or if
> there was
> some sort of siphon being set up from 

Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27

[Della Barba, Joe]

I am fighting with our CRYC webmistress to get actual 2013 data up there - I'll 
let you know as soon as it is up.
We do welcome anyone that wants to buy our chicken dinner to come - racing or 
not.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 9:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC

I recall the conversation about a get together at the Annapolis Sailboat Show 
in October. But I can't recall if any details were ever firmed up.

But Joe Della Barba invited us all to the annual regatta at this club on the 
Corsica River (Eastern Shore across from Baltimore/Annapolis). With so many of 
us in the middle and upper Chesapeake, it could be a really nice get-together.

I'm going to be the bay for a while this summer and am arranging my schedule to 
do the Baltimore Light race 
http://www.cbyra.org/RaceInfo/2012/206/20120728%20-%20206%20-%20CRYC%20Annual%20Race%20Over-NOR_GSI-20120307a%20-%20FINAL.pdf
 and the get together at the CRYC Annual Regatta over the weekend of July 26-28 
 http://www.cryc.org/annual.htm  .

I want to thank Joe Della Barba for inviting us all to a get together at his 
club, and especially for the help he has given me in getting information so I 
can get registered.

I'm planning a cruise to the Chesapeake, but will need to drop the boat for 
about three weeks and return home in early July. I plan to leave the boat 
around June 28th, and return on July 22nd or 23rd  to do the Baltimore Light 
race on July 27th and attend the C&C Owners rendezvous at CRYC, so I'm looking 
for a spot for the boat that is within reach of Baltimore and offers some 
cruising destinations in the area. Something in the area between Solomons and 
Baltimore would seem practical..

Imzadi is a C&C 38. Beam is 12' and the draft is 5'6". I belong to a couple of 
clubs in my area that have reciprocity through Yacht Clubs of America, in case 
anyone knows of a club that offers reciprocity.

Could any listers let me know if you have a suggestion for space available, and 
how I would make arrangements? It could be a private dock, a marina, or a club.

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 10:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous?

I thought there was some planning in progress for a Chesapeake Rendezvous for 
this fall, I cannot find any mention of it on the photo album site; is it still 
a go? If so, are there any dates or other details available? Thanks
Richard
1987 33-II Ohio River, Mile 584;

Richard N. Bush Law Offices
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor
Louisville, Kentucky 40202
502-584-7255
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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC

[Gary Nylander]

Damn. I would love to join in. But, J-80 racing on Saturday, Penniless JAMming 
(jib and main series) on Sunday - and hydroplane racing in Cambridge all 
weekend. Too much fun, too little time.

Gary
St. Michaels
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Brass 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 9:34 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC


  I recall the conversation about a get together at the Annapolis Sailboat Show 
in October. But I can't recall if any details were ever firmed up. 

   

  But Joe Della Barba invited us all to the annual regatta at this club on the 
Corsica River (Eastern Shore across from Baltimore/Annapolis). With so many of 
us in the middle and upper Chesapeake, it could be a really nice get-together.  

   

  I'm going to be the bay for a while this summer and am arranging my schedule 
to do the Baltimore Light race 
http://www.cbyra.org/RaceInfo/2012/206/20120728%20-%20206%20-%20CRYC%20Annual%20Race%20Over-NOR_GSI-20120307a%20-%20FINAL.pdf
 and the get together at the CRYC Annual Regatta over the weekend of July 26-28 
 http://www.cryc.org/annual.htm  .

   

  I want to thank Joe Della Barba for inviting us all to a get together at his 
club, and especially for the help he has given me in getting information so I 
can get registered.

   

  I'm planning a cruise to the Chesapeake, but will need to drop the boat for 
about three weeks and return home in early July. I plan to leave the boat 
around June 28th, and return on July 22nd or 23rd  to do the Baltimore Light 
race on July 27th and attend the C&C Owners rendezvous at CRYC, so I'm looking 
for a spot for the boat that is within reach of Baltimore and offers some 
cruising destinations in the area. Something in the area between Solomons and 
Baltimore would seem practical..

   

  Imzadi is a C&C 38. Beam is 12' and the draft is 5'6". I belong to a couple 
of clubs in my area that have reciprocity through Yacht Clubs of America, in 
case anyone knows of a club that offers reciprocity.

   

  Could any listers let me know if you have a suggestion for space available, 
and how I would make arrangements? It could be a private dock, a marina, or a 
club. 

   

  Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

   

   

  Rick Brass

  Washington, NC

   

   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush
  Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 10:38 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous?

   

  I thought there was some planning in progress for a Chesapeake Rendezvous for 
this fall, I cannot find any mention of it on the photo album site; is it still 
a go? If so, are there any dates or other details available? Thanks

  Richard

  1987 33-II Ohio River, Mile 584;


  Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
  235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 
  Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
  502-584-7255



--


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[dwight veinot]

I am betting on the companion way slide hatch

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: May 23, 2013 10:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

 

Keith,

 

Gennie track or toe rail loose?

 

Joel

 

On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:21 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR
 wrote:

If we are talking about mystery leaks.I have one coming from the
overhead near the nav desk.  It's in the extreme outboard, about 1-inch
aft of the electrical panel.  It drips into that little shelf.  I cannot
find any leaking bolts thru the deck anywhere aft of that, and the shape
of the headliner would seem to make the electrical panel a high point -
like the continental divide.

I honestly suspect that it's coming thru an electrical cables' sheath.
but the only wiring that "leaves the boat" back there is the stern
light, which is inside it's fixture...it's a mystery.

-Keith



-Original Message-
From: Graham Collins [mailto:cnclistforw...@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 20:25
To: Erik Hillenmeyer; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

Hi Erik
I would tighten it while in the water, it is so unlikely to result in a
bad outcome that I don't see a reason why you wouldn't try it.

I remain baffled though as to the path the water is taking.  A leak at
the keel stub to lead joint should come in at a bolt.  For it to get up
under that stringer is a mystery to me (but then I have a leak into my
hanging locker that I am unable to find, so what do I know???).

Good luck!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2013-05-22 6:24 PM, Erik Hillenmeyer wrote:


Keith,

The tanks are empty, I never filled them.  The water is crystal
clear (thanks to Zebra mussels) Lake Michigan water - no fuel, oil, etc.

I am not completely convinced it isn't finding it's way to the
stringer from elsewhere, but I just can't prove it.  I've removed all
the floor boards and the the thing is just bone dry everywhere except
inside that limber hole.  in fact, if i stick my finger in the cutout in
the stringer for the bilge hose, which is several inches to port of the
limber hole it is dry, so it almost has to be coming from below.

My shower pump was straight forward, hose from the shower sump
to a pump under the sink and up to a thru hull at the toe rail.  I
disabled this yesterday because i installed an automatic bilge pump and
float switch to keep up with the water and the only above the water line
thru hull available was the shower drain pump - i don't use it anyway.
In off season I'll maybe add a thru hull and reattach it.

Thanks for the input!  Any opinion on tightening keel bolts in
the water - I cannot get a conclusive answer on this.  Some sources say
do it and some say never.  I've seen it argued on several forums, but
haven't formed my own opinion yet...

Thanks,

Erik

From: "Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR"

 
To: Erik Hillenmeyer 
 ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 2:51 PM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak


Erik,

I've been mulling over your situation.

Here's my thoughts:

You indicate that it seems like the water is originating from
somewhere
*inside* the stringer. We know that there are no keel bolts in
there,
nor are there any openings to the ocean there...and it's in
front of the
last keel bolt, so it seems unlikely (to me) that it's a
grounding
problem.
So...where would water come from *inside* the stringer?

On my 35-3, they've run all the water hoses/pipes thru large
holes in
the stringers, drilled maybe 1" or so down from the top.
If one of those pipes has a weeping leak where it passes over
the
perhaps sharp edge of the hole drilled, it could seem like the
water is
originating in there.  Then gravity just makes the water tanks
drip into
the bilge.
It's been a few days...at 2.5 gallons a day, your water tanks
should be
noticeably low if this was the source. To test, put two
different food
colors (or two different liquors) in the tanks, and close the
valves at
the water pump so they aren't cross-connected, then wait it out.
What
color/taste is the bilge?

Another possibility along these lines is an extra bilge pump
pickup...on
my 35-3 there is a shower sump pump for the shower in the head.
But
somewhere along the line (maybe at the factory) they put a 3-way
valve
in, then ran a hose thru the bilge to a point between the mast
and
engine, and there is a pickup there too. (it's my "aft" bilge
pump
pickup)
If this was deranged like above (leaky hose/fitting), 

Re: Stus-List NOAA Mobile app for Android

[Bill Coleman]

Ratfeathers.

This app is only for Android Tablets, not Phones.

 

NOAA - OCS Inquiry: 21042

Original message: Thanks for offering this chart reader. Only problem, after
trying to download with my Galaxy Note 2, it says it is incompatible!

Oh well, 


Bill Coleman

NOAA-OCS response: Greetings Bill

Thanks for your inquiry. Since MyNOAACharts is a technology demonstrator, it
was designed to work on Android tablets only. There are no immediate plans
to support android phones. Thanks again for your interest in MyNOAACharts
and your encouraging words.

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 2:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List NOAA Mobile app for Android

 

The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration is testing MyNOAACharts,
a new mobile app that allows users to download NOAA nautical charts and
editions of the U.S. Coast Pilot.

The app, which is only designed for Android tablets for the testing period,
will be released today, NOAA announced.

MyNOAACharts, which can be used on land and on the water, has built-in GPS
capabilities that allow users to find their position on a NOAA nautical
chart. Users can zoom in on any specific location or zoom out for the big
picture to plan their route.

The Coast Pilot has "geotagged" some of the major locations - embedding
geographical information, such as latitude and longitude, directly into the
chart so it is readable in the app - and provides links to appropriate
federal regulations. The app can be downloaded from the Google Play app
store.

"Easy and workable access to nautical charts is important for boating
safety," NOAA Office of Coast Survey director Rear Adm. Gerd Glang said in a
statement.

The beta test for MyNOAACharts will expire on Labor Day, which is Sept. 2.
Coast Survey will then evaluate usage and user feedback to decide whether to
release a finished version of the app.

"Expanding the app across a multitude of platforms, ensuring easy
accessibility to over a thousand charts and nearly 5,000 pages of U.S. Coast
Pilot, will take considerable resources," Glang said. "We can do it if the
boating community likes the app. We truly want the users to let us know if
the app meets their needs."

 

http://www.nauticalcharts.noaa.gov/mynoaacharts/

 

Bill Coleman

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR]

Well, I know it's not the genny track because I took all the covers off
and watched it for an hour in the rainnothin'.  plus, I'd see the
waterstain on the inside of the coversnothin'

I doubt it's the toerail because it would tend to drip straight down the
inside of the hull...not on the headliner.

Butthe companion way slide...that is intriguing...I'll have to look
into that one some more.  Thanks for the hint!

-Keith


-Original Message-
From: dwight veinot [mailto:dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca] 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 11:36
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

I am betting on the companion way slide hatch

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: May 23, 2013 10:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

 

Keith,

 

Gennie track or toe rail loose?

 

Joel

 

On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:21 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR
 wrote:

If we are talking about mystery leaks.I have one coming from the
overhead near the nav desk.  It's in the extreme outboard, about 1-inch
aft of the electrical panel.  It drips into that little shelf.  I cannot
find any leaking bolts thru the deck anywhere aft of that, and the shape
of the headliner would seem to make the electrical panel a high point -
like the continental divide.

I honestly suspect that it's coming thru an electrical cables' sheath.
but the only wiring that "leaves the boat" back there is the stern
light, which is inside it's fixture...it's a mystery.

-Keith



-Original Message-
From: Graham Collins [mailto:cnclistforw...@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 20:25
To: Erik Hillenmeyer; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

Hi Erik
I would tighten it while in the water, it is so unlikely to result in a
bad outcome that I don't see a reason why you wouldn't try it.

I remain baffled though as to the path the water is taking.  A leak at
the keel stub to lead joint should come in at a bolt.  For it to get up
under that stringer is a mystery to me (but then I have a leak into my
hanging locker that I am unable to find, so what do I know???).

Good luck!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2013-05-22 6:24 PM, Erik Hillenmeyer wrote:


Keith,

The tanks are empty, I never filled them.  The water is crystal
clear (thanks to Zebra mussels) Lake Michigan water - no fuel, oil, etc.

I am not completely convinced it isn't finding it's way to the
stringer from elsewhere, but I just can't prove it.  I've removed all
the floor boards and the the thing is just bone dry everywhere except
inside that limber hole.  in fact, if i stick my finger in the cutout in
the stringer for the bilge hose, which is several inches to port of the
limber hole it is dry, so it almost has to be coming from below.

My shower pump was straight forward, hose from the shower sump
to a pump under the sink and up to a thru hull at the toe rail.  I
disabled this yesterday because i installed an automatic bilge pump and
float switch to keep up with the water and the only above the water line
thru hull available was the shower drain pump - i don't use it anyway.
In off season I'll maybe add a thru hull and reattach it.

Thanks for the input!  Any opinion on tightening keel bolts in
the water - I cannot get a conclusive answer on this.  Some sources say
do it and some say never.  I've seen it argued on several forums, but
haven't formed my own opinion yet...

Thanks,

Erik

From: "Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR"

 
To: Erik Hillenmeyer 
 ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 2:51 PM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 35-3 Leak


Erik,

I've been mulling over your situation.

Here's my thoughts:

You indicate that it seems like the water is originating from
somewhere
*inside* the stringer. We know that there are no keel bolts in
there,
nor are there any openings to the ocean there...and it's in
front of the
last keel bolt, so it seems unlikely (to me) that it's a
grounding
problem.
So...where would water come from *inside* the stringer?

On my 35-3, they've run all the water hoses/pipes thru large
holes in
the stringers, drilled maybe 1" or so down from the top.
If one of those pipes has a weeping leak where it passes over
the
perhaps sharp edge of the hole drilled, it could seem like the
water is
originating in there.  Then gravity just makes the water tanks
drip into
the bilge.
It's been a few days...at 2.5 gallons a day, your water tanks
should be
noticeably low if this was the source. To test, put two
different food
colors

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Eric Frank]

I concur with Dwight's bet.  I had rainwater appearing in the after port settee 
compartment that I thought was coming from a toerail leak.  But then I noticed 
a drip from a crack in the headliner after a heavy rain.  So I finally took the 
companion way hatch cover completely off, cleaned it up, and rebedded it, and 
have not seen water in that place since then even after a heavy rain (it still 
does come down the mast and into the bilge). 

Apparently in moderate rain, the water coming in through the hatch cover ran 
down inside the liner over to the port side without being visible en route.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 12:36:28 -0300
> From: dwight veinot 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I am betting on the companion way slide hatch
> 
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  _  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
> Aronson
> Sent: May 23, 2013 10:40 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
> 
> Keith,
> Gennie track or toe rail loose?
> Joel
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:21 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR
>  wrote:
> 
> If we are talking about mystery leaks.I have one coming from the
> overhead near the nav desk.  It's in the extreme outboard, about 1-inch
> aft of the electrical panel.  It drips into that little shelf.  I cannot
> find any leaking bolts thru the deck anywhere aft of that, and the shape
> of the headliner would seem to make the electrical panel a high point -
> like the continental divide.
> 
> I honestly suspect that it's coming thru an electrical cables' sheath.
> but the only wiring that "leaves the boat" back there is the stern
> light, which is inside it's fixture...it's a mystery.
> 
> -Keith
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Rick Brass]

Second the thought. I left my backstay tension on hard for a couple of
months, and spent a heck of a lot of time trying to track down a leak that
was coming down on the galley counter. Then I noticed that one of the light
fixtures over the counter was full of water and badly corroded; so I deduced
the leak was in the deck hardware and draining down inside the headliner.
After a great deal of effort, I finally figured out the boat was not sitting
on her lines because of how gear had been stored for some project work, and
the tension on the backstay had "banana-ed" the boat. Waater was collecting
under the forward part of the companionway  cover, spilling onto the liner,
and draining down to the gallet.

 

Now I release tension on the backstay every time I put the boat to bed. And
the leak has gone away.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 11:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

 

I am betting on the companion way slide hatch

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 2GM 15 dies when I put it in Fwd

[Curtis]

I do have a 2 blade folder.



On 5/23/13, Jeffrey Nelson  wrote:
> Interesting problem. Mine doesn't do that, so there must be a cause. Do you
> have a folding prop or fixed?
>
> Something is causing a lot of extra load.
> --
> Cheers,
>  Jeff Nelson
>  Muir Caileag
>  C&C 30
>
> On 05/22/13, Curtis   wrote:
>> I need help!!! I crank up the 2GM15 let her come to operating temp. I idel
>> up to around 900 and slip her into gear and it stalls out unless I goose
>> the fuel. This is a problem. I don't have this problem in REV. But I cant
>> operate a 8 thousand pound boat in swift currents, In close quarters. Is
>> there something that can be don to fix this problem? Is this a problem
>> with the C&C30 MK1 of centered shaft and engine alignment?
>>  The prop is clean.
>> The Transmission turns by hand.
>> There is oil in the transmission.
>>
>>
>> Help...
>>
>>
>> --
>> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
>> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
>>
>>
>


-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails.”

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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27

[rick bushie]

Hey Joe,

Anchovy is interested in participating in the Balto Light race and
subsequent get together.  We don't, however, have a phrf rating or really
know how to get one or if we really want to get one.  We don't race (mostly
because the boat's faster than her skipper).  Suggestions?

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 30-1
Worton Creek, MD
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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27

[Joel Aronson]

To get a rating you need to go to: http://www.phrfchesbay.org/bin/main.php

They will assign a sail number which needs to go on both sides of all
sails.  Sailrite sells them for about $2. each.  You'll need 8 inch high
numbers (I think)

Rick


On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 1:41 PM, rick bushie wrote:

> Hey Joe,
>
> Anchovy is interested in participating in the Balto Light race and
> subsequent get together.  We don't, however, have a phrf rating or really
> know how to get one or if we really want to get one.  We don't race (mostly
> because the boat's faster than her skipper).  Suggestions?
>
> Rick Bushie
> Anchovy, 30-1
> Worton Creek, MD
>
> ___
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27

[Gary Nylander]

Rick, if the Balto Light race doesn't REQUIRE a PHRF certificate, your rating 
is 174 (all 30-1's on the Chesapeake are rated 174). If they require a 
certificate as part of the entry, you need to join CBYRA and then apply to PHRF 
of the Chesapeake. You will be out about $100 or so. And it will still say 174.

Many of the smaller clubs on the bay take your word for it. Our Wednesday and 
Saturday groups do.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: rick bushie 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 1:41 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27


  Hey Joe,

  Anchovy is interested in participating in the Balto Light race and subsequent 
get together.  We don't, however, have a phrf rating or really know how to get 
one or if we really want to get one.  We don't race (mostly because the boat's 
faster than her skipper).  Suggestions?

  Rick Bushie
  Anchovy, 30-1
  Worton Creek, MD


--


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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27

[Gary Nylander]

Joel, he could use the number 1 and the C&C logo. His is hull number 1 of the 
30's.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Aronson 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 1:46 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27


  To get a rating you need to go to: http://www.phrfchesbay.org/bin/main.php


  They will assign a sail number which needs to go on both sides of all sails.  
Sailrite sells them for about $2. each.  You'll need 8 inch high numbers (I 
think)


  Rick



  On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 1:41 PM, rick bushie  wrote:

Hey Joe,

Anchovy is interested in participating in the Balto Light race and 
subsequent get together.  We don't, however, have a phrf rating or really know 
how to get one or if we really want to get one.  We don't race (mostly because 
the boat's faster than her skipper).  Suggestions?

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 30-1
Worton Creek, MD

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  -- 
  Joel 
  301 541 8551 


--


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Alan Bergen]

Remove the inspection panel above the nav station, and lay a paper towel under 
any wiring in the area as far forward of the inspection panel as you can reach. 
The leak can be anywhere forward of where it appears, before it works its way 
to where you think it might be. The leak could be from the companionway slide, 
or it could be dripping down any of the mast wiring that comes back toward the 
nav station. 


Alan Bergen 
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Joel Aronson]

If you have the heavy duty blue paper towel it might be easier to see the
source than if you use a towel.  you could put one above the winch access
panel too to see if it is the companionway.


On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 12:39 PM, Alan Bergen wrote:

> Remove the inspection panel above the nav station, and lay a paper towel
> under any wiring in the area as far forward of the inspection panel as you
> can reach.  The leak can be anywhere forward of where it appears, before it
> works its way to where you think it might be.  The leak could be from the
> companionway slide, or it could be dripping down any of the mast wiring
> that comes back toward the nav station.
>
>
> Alan Bergen
> C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> ___
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>


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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Neil Andersen]

My trick with finding leaks, etc. is to use washable markers (like you give
kids).  The line will wash away or show runs where the water is coming from.
I have put such a line along my deck/hull joint (where it can't be seen
without looking for it).  It has been a great help to find where to tighten
things up a bit.

 

Neil

1982 C&C32 FoxFire

Worton Creek, MD/

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 1:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

 

If you have the heavy duty blue paper towel it might be easier to see the
source than if you use a towel.  you could put one above the winch access
panel too to see if it is the companionway.

 

On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 12:39 PM, Alan Bergen 
wrote:

Remove the inspection panel above the nav station, and lay a paper towel
under any wiring in the area as far forward of the inspection panel as you
can reach.  The leak can be anywhere forward of where it appears, before it
works its way to where you think it might be.  The leak could be from the
companionway slide, or it could be dripping down any of the mast wiring that
comes back toward the nav station.

 

Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

 


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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control

[Chuck S]

My Universal throttle needed a slight adjustment to prevent throttling too low. 
Two 9mm wrenches were needed to adjust stops on the cable linhage at the engine 
and did the trick for ten years now. The cable was closing the fuel rack to 
far. Took some trial and error adjustment, till we got it right, but purrs now. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Jeffrey Nelson"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:23:37 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Location of the Pull-Stop Engine Control 

Mine's like that as well. It took a little getting used to. Figured out a baby 
finger from bottom is 
idle, so it hasn't been annoying enough to change. 

On 05/22/13, Knowles Rich  wrote: 


Don't you find that annoying when docking and changing direction? 

Rich Knowles 
Indigo. LF38 
Halifax 

On 2013-05-22, at 17:05, "Gary Nylander"  wrote: 

> My Yanmar has the throttle set so low that when you throttle down to nothing, 
> it stops. 

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Cheers, 
Jeff Nelson 
Muir Caileag 
C&C 30 
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Graham Collins]

  
  
Probably not that - the deck collar has
  been rebedded.  The babystay track has been rebedded.  The forward
  hatch was replaced (thus rebedded).   The cleat for the spin
  halyard was rebedded.  The deck organizer / turning blocks were
  rebedded.  The hand rails are the current suspect - I did rebed
  them but it was a rush job and I would not guarantee it...
  
  The only other things in the area that haven't been rebedded are
  the two padeyes on the foredeck, I will likely do them this summer
  at some point.
  
  Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
  On 2013-05-22 11:09 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote:


  
  
  
  
  
Graham,
 
You
hanging locker leak could be from something pretty far away
that allows the water to flow over the headliner.  The mast
boot might be close enough to cause the leak.
 
Jake
 
Jake
  Brodersen
C&C
  35 Mk-III
Midnight
Mistress
Hampton
  VA
   
     

 
 
 

  
From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
  Behalf Of Graham Collins
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 8:25 PM
To: Erik Hillenmeyer; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
  

 

  Hi Erik
I would tighten it while in the water, it is so unlikely to
result in a bad outcome that I don't see a reason why you
wouldn't try it.

I remain baffled though as to the path the water is taking. 
A leak at the keel stub to lead joint should come in at a
bolt.  For it to get up under that stringer is a mystery to
me (but then I have a leak into my hanging locker that I am
unable to find, so what do I know???).

Good luck!


  Graham Collins
  Secret Plans
  C&C 35-III #11 

 
  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Theoretical Hull Speed - heel vs waterline

[Dennis C.]

Not necessarily true.  Depends on the boat's hull shape.  For beamy boats 
perhaps but for narrower IOR designs more heel means more waterline and thus 
more speed...up to a point.  Excess heel may result in a slower boat as the 
keel loses its effectiveness and as the midships buoyancy mat result in the bow 
actually lifting out of the water and thus reducing waterline.  Here's a good 
read on the subject.

http://www.sailingworld.com/experts/how-heel-affects-speed-and-handling

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA







>
> From: Bob Moriarty 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 9:34 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Theoretical Hull Speed
> 
>
>
>Just a minor comment.
>As the boat heels and picks up waterline length, its presentation to the sea 
>state is usually increasingly sub-optimal vis-a-vis hull speed. 
>Bob M
>Ox 33-1
>Jax, FL
>
>
>
>
>On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 9:58 AM, Ronald B. Frerker  wrote:
>
>Just to reinforce Dennis' comment; many boats pick up waterline length when 
>heeling and thus increase potential boat speed.
>>Also keep in mind that unless it's GPS speed, speedo's can have error.  We 
>>had a boat in the marina that could do 0.5kt while sitting at the dock!
>>Ron
>>Wild Cheri
>>C&C 30
>>STL
>>
>>
>>--- On Sun, 5/19/13, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com  wrote:
>>
>>
>>>From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com 
>>>Subject: Stus-List Theoretical Hull Speed
>>>To: "CnC" 
>>>Date: Sunday, May 19, 2013, 6:41 PM
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>My 26 has a theoretical hull speed around 61/4 knots. I've had 7.9 on a beam 
>>>reach once with main and 135% genoa. So your not alone! I guess the optimum 
>>>word is theoretical. 
>>>Sam Salter 
>>>C&C 26 Liquorice 
>>>Ghost Lake Alberta 
>>>
>>>
>>>-Inline Attachment Follows-
>>>
>>>
>>>___
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>>>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>___
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>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Edson steering issue

[Mike Brannon]

Josh,  this link will https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ktgqzwodk1i0z3u/CxUksbEoW3 
take you to pictures that show the damage I had in my boat.  I apologize for 
the quality.   Somewhere I have additional pictures showing the completed 
repair.   In short the knees are what the chainplates attach to.   Mine began 
pulling loose from the boat.   I removed a portion of the liner and replaced 
the plywood knees.   If  I can find the other pictures showing the  finished 
repair I will add them to the folder.   

Mike



Sent from my iPad

On May 22, 2013, at 11:31, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> Mike,
> 
> Could you please explain what "tabbing on their knees" is and what is means 
> to fail?
> 
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> 
> 
> -- 
> When security matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
> 
> On May 20, 2013 7:13 PM, "Mike Brannon"  wrote:
>> Bill,  I've got a 78 C&C 36 Center Board version.  I find that the boat is 
>> very tender and once the wind pipes up I start reducing sail much earlier 
>> than most of the other boats in the fleet.   Keeping the boat flat < 20 deg 
>> of heel and I can still keep up with most of them going to wind with minimal 
>> weather helm.   Also, when I replaced the standing rigging a couple of years 
>> ago we left the mast where it was.
>> 
>> I'm also aware of several C&C 36s of that vintage which have had the tabbing 
>> on their knees fail, mine included.   Once I fixed that problem I found I 
>> could carry much more sail.
>> 
>> As an example on Sat I sailed for most of the day in 20+ wind with a 115 
>> (blade is being repaired) of unknown age and a single reef in the main and 
>> made a decent show considering the aged sail.   I had minimal weather helm 
>> and great boat control.
>> 
>> Mike,
>> 
>> Virginia Lee
>> C&C 36 CB
>> VIRGINIA BEACH
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27

[Joel Aronson]

A "1" would be cool!  Rating will change for non-folding prop, furler or
oversized/undersized jib or chute.


On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 1:50 PM, Gary Nylander wrote:

> **
> Joel, he could use the number 1 and the C&C logo. His is hull number 1 of
> the 30's.
>
> Gary
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Joel Aronson 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 1:46 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC
> 7-27
>
> To get a rating you need to go to: http://www.phrfchesbay.org/bin/main.php
>
> They will assign a sail number which needs to go on both sides of all
> sails.  Sailrite sells them for about $2. each.  You'll need 8 inch high
> numbers (I think)
>
> Rick
>
>
> On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 1:41 PM, rick bushie wrote:
>
>> Hey Joe,
>>
>> Anchovy is interested in participating in the Balto Light race and
>> subsequent get together.  We don't, however, have a phrf rating or really
>> know how to get one or if we really want to get one.  We don't race (mostly
>> because the boat's faster than her skipper).  Suggestions?
>>
>> Rick Bushie
>> Anchovy, 30-1
>> Worton Creek, MD
>>
>> ___
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>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> --
>
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>
>
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Stus-List Fw: Help

[Stu]

Anybody have knowledge of this boat?  Reply to me offline and I will pass 
the info on the Shelli.


Stu

-Original Message- 
From: S D

Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 7:41 PM

Subject: Help

I am looking to find the owners of a 1975 c&c 25 named "red ink". The boat 
was purchased on the east coast somewhere in the Chesepeake and moved to Los 
Angeles in the early 1980s. It was sold on the west coast in the late 80s 
and I don't know much more.  It is a red hull boat.  It belonged to my 
parents and I would like to find the current owners for my Dad who is now in 
his late seventies.   Can you help me or point me in a direction to track 
the owners down.


Thanks

Shelli

Sent from my iPad



-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3343 / Virus Database: 3184/6351 - Release Date: 05/23/13


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Re: Stus-List Theoretical Hull Speed - heel vs waterline

[Bob Moriarty]

Interesting article. All sorts of variables involved. (couldn't see the
pictures) I was mainly presenting the idea that the bow on an upright boat
would more easily pierce waves than a boat that was getting slapped along
the flattish expanse of its forward topside. (Except for scows) Conversely,
I suppose that an increased flat area astern could help a boat to surf more
easily.

But, I'm mainly a river rat; a brown water sailor. Saw a 2-footer once.
:-)

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 6:27 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> Not necessarily true.  Depends on the boat's hull shape.  For beamy boats
> perhaps but for narrower IOR designs more heel means more waterline and
> thus more speed...up to a point.  Excess heel may result in a slower boat
> as the keel loses its effectiveness and as the midships buoyancy mat result
> in the bow actually lifting out of the water and thus reducing waterline.
> Here's a good read on the subject.
>
> http://www.sailingworld.com/experts/how-heel-affects-speed-and-handling
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>
>   --
>  *From:* Bob Moriarty 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 22, 2013 9:34 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Theoretical Hull Speed
>
> Just a minor comment.
> As the boat heels and picks up waterline length, its presentation to the
> sea state is usually increasingly sub-optimal vis-a-vis hull speed.
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
>
> On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 9:58 AM, Ronald B. Frerker wrote:
>
> Just to reinforce Dennis' comment; many boats pick up waterline length
> when heeling and thus increase potential boat speed.
> Also keep in mind that unless it's GPS speed, speedo's can have error.  We
> had a boat in the marina that could do 0.5kt while sitting at the dock!
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30
> STL
>
>
> --- On *Sun, 5/19/13, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com *wrote:
>
>
> From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Theoretical Hull Speed
> To: "CnC" 
> Date: Sunday, May 19, 2013, 6:41 PM
>
>
>  My 26 has a theoretical hull speed around 61/4 knots. I've had 7.9 on a
> beam reach once with main and 135% genoa. So your not alone! I guess the
> optimum word is theoretical.
> Sam Salter
> C&C 26 Liquorice
> Ghost Lake Alberta
>
>
> -Inline Attachment Follows-
>
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>
>
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>
>
>
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>
>
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Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Don Jonsson]

Hi

 

I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The
culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because
generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.

 

So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning.
I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing through them and
the engine.

 

I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is
supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but I
knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and put
it on.  Started up and no water.

 

I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly corroded
but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and
started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat
out and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam
everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.

 

Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.

 

So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't
that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat - I don't
think although I will replace it.  

 

The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And I'm
stumped. 

 

This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has anyone
had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.

 

Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic
had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers
for that engine?

 

Thanks to anyone that can help.

Don

 

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Re: Stus-List NOAA Mobile app for Android

[Bob Moriarty]

MX Mariner works on my Galaxy S II (cellphone) as well as the Nexus 7. You
only have to pay ($6.99) once for all of your Android devices.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 11:45 AM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

>  Ratfeathers.
>
> This app is only for Android Tablets, not Phones.
>
> ** **
>
>
> Oh well,
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> NOAA-OCS response: Greetings Bill
>
> Thanks for your inquiry. Since MyNOAACharts is a technology demonstrator,
> it was designed to work on Android tablets only. There are no immediate
> plans to support android phones. Thanks again for your interest in
> MyNOAACharts and your encouraging words.
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 [image: animated_favicon1]
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> Coleman
> *Sent:* Monday, May 20, 2013 2:27 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List NOAA Mobile app for Android
>
> ** **
>
>
> ** **
>
> http://www.nauticalcharts.noaa.gov/mynoaacharts/
>
> ** **
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Greg Sutherland]

Hey Don, I had similar issues with my raw water SB8 on a Mirage 26 and it ended 
up being the cooling passages in the head and block. I tore it down and cleaned 
them out. Was a long process but manageable. Not sure how complicated it would 
be on a 3 gm. Very satisfying when I was done and sat back, beer in hand, and a 
smile on. Not sure if that's your issue but it may be a good place to start. 
Good luck!

Greg 
Siesta
'87 33-2

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: Don Jonsson 
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 01:00:17 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens



Hi
 
I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The culprit, 
so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally 
when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.
 
So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning.  I 
checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the 
engine.    
 
I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is 
supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but I 
knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and put it 
on.  Started up and no water.
 
I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly corroded but 
it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and started 
it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat out and put 
it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam everything is 
perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.
 
Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.
 
So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't that 
bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat - I don't think 
although I will replace it.  
 
The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And I'm 
stumped. 
 
This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has anyone had 
a similar problem and ideas for a solution.
 
Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had 
to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers for 
that engine?
 
Thanks to anyone that can help.
Don
 

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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Jim Watts]

I assume you checked your seacock and strainer for blockage? I usually
start troubleshooting at the easy stuff, like is there a fish in my water
intake?
The answer is yes, twice. The second time it happened, it was the first
thing I checked. The first time it happened, it was about the 84th.


On 23 May 2013 18:24, Greg Sutherland  wrote:

> Hey Don, I had similar issues with my raw water SB8 on a Mirage 26 and it
> ended up being the cooling passages in the head and block. I tore it down
> and cleaned them out. Was a long process but manageable. Not sure how
> complicated it would be on a 3 gm. Very satisfying when I was done and sat
> back, beer in hand, and a smile on. Not sure if that's your issue but it
> may be a good place to start.
> Good luck!
>
> Greg
> Siesta
> '87 33-2
>
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Don Jonsson 
> Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 01:00:17
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
>
>
>
> Hi
>
> I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The
> culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because
> generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.
>
> So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper
> cleaning.  I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing
> through them and the engine.
>
> I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is
> supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but
> I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and
> put it on.  Started up and no water.
>
> I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly corroded
> but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and
> started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat
> out and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam
> everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.
>
> Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No
> water.
>
> So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't
> that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat - I don't
> think although I will replace it.
>
> The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And
> I'm stumped.
>
> This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has
> anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.
>
> Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic
> had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers
> for that engine?
>
> Thanks to anyone that can help.
> Don
>
>
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Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Jake Brodersen]

I was going to say it was the traveler.  Mine wept a bit until I rebedded it
with butyl.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

   

cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 11:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

 

I am betting on the companion way slide hatch

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Knowles Rich]

Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze insert is 
not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a new or old unit 
and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may look perfect. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, "Don Jonsson"  wrote:

Hi
 
I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The culprit, 
so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally 
when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.
 
So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning.  I 
checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the 
engine.
 
I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is 
supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit – needed a new gasket, but I 
knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and put it 
on.  Started up and no water.
 
I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked – slightly corroded but 
it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and started 
it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat out and put 
it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam everything is 
perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.
 
Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.
 
So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn’t that 
bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat – I don’t think 
although I will replace it. 
 
The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And I’m 
stumped.
 
This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has anyone had 
a similar problem and ideas for a solution.
 
Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had 
to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers for 
that engine?
 
Thanks to anyone that can help.
Don
 
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Stus-List Fw: Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Persuasion]

Don

Give Martin a call a Port Whitby Marine Supply.  He’s a great guy.  He has been 
able to get me Yanmar parts when no one else could.  When I sailed out of 
Whitby he was my go to guy.  Now I still call him when I need parts and he does 
mail order.  I find his price very reasonable.  (usual disclaimers)

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Don Jonsson 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 9:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

Hi

 

I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The culprit, 
so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because generally 
when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.

 

So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning.  I 
checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the 
engine.

 

I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is 
supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit – needed a new gasket, but I 
knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and put it 
on.  Started up and no water.

 

I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked – slightly corroded but 
it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and started 
it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat out and put 
it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam everything is 
perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.

 

Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.

 

So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn’t that 
bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat – I don’t think 
although I will replace it.  

 

The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And I’m 
stumped. 

 

This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has anyone had 
a similar problem and ideas for a solution.

 

Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had 
to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers for 
that engine?

 

Thanks to anyone that can help.

Don

 




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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Dennis C.]

Good suggestion from Rich.  Even a new impeller can spin.  

Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump.  Disconnect 
the discharge at the pump.  Start the engine and check for flow there.  (It 
won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no water flow.)  Try to stop 
the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or your hand.  If the flow and 
pressure are good, move downstream.  If no flow or you can stop the flow then 
the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump.

If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you cleaned.  
Check for flow and pressure there.  

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: Knowles Rich 
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
> 
>
>
>Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze insert is 
>not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a new or old 
>unit and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may look perfect. 
>
>
>Rich Knowles
>Indigo. LF38
>Halifax
>
>On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, "Don Jonsson"  wrote:
>
>
>Hi
> 
>I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The 
>culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because 
>generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.
> 
>So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning.  
>I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing through them and the 
>engine.    
> 
>I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is 
>supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit – needed a new gasket, but I 
>knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and put 
>it on.  Started up and no water.
> 
>I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked – slightly corroded but 
>it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and started 
>it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat out and put 
>it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam everything is 
>perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.
> 
>Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.
> 
>So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn’t that 
>bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat – I don’t think 
>although I will replace it.  
> 
>The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And I’m 
>stumped. 
> 
>This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has anyone 
>had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.
> 
>Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had 
>to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers for 
>that engine?
> 
>Thanks to anyone that can help.
>Don
> 
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Re: Stus-List Edson steering issue

[Josh Muckley]

Yikes!  Never heard of that.  Now you got me scared!

-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On May 23, 2013 6:49 PM, "Mike Brannon"  wrote:

> Josh,  this link will
> https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ktgqzwodk1i0z3u/CxUksbEoW3 take you to
> pictures that show the damage I had in my boat.  I apologize for the
> quality.   Somewhere I have additional pictures showing the completed
> repair.   In short the knees are what the chainplates attach to.   Mine
> began pulling loose from the boat.   I removed a portion of the liner and
> replaced the plywood knees.   If  I can find the other pictures showing the
>  finished repair I will add them to the folder.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 22, 2013, at 11:31, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Could you please explain what "tabbing on their knees" is and what is
> means to fail?
>
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
>
> --
> When security matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
> On May 20, 2013 7:13 PM, "Mike Brannon"  wrote:
>
>> Bill,  I've got a 78 C&C 36 Center Board version.  I find that the boat
>> is very tender and once the wind pipes up I start reducing sail much
>> earlier than most of the other boats in the fleet.   Keeping the boat flat
>> < 20 deg of heel and I can still keep up with most of them going to wind
>> with minimal weather helm.   Also, when I replaced the standing rigging a
>> couple of years ago we left the mast where it was.
>>
>> I'm also aware of several C&C 36s of that vintage which have had the
>> tabbing on their knees fail, mine included.   Once I fixed that problem I
>> found I could carry much more sail.
>>
>> As an example on Sat I sailed for most of the day in 20+ wind with a 115
>> (blade is being repaired) of unknown age and a single reef in the main and
>> made a decent show considering the aged sail.   I had minimal weather helm
>> and great boat control.
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> Virginia Lee
>> C&C 36 CB
>> VIRGINIA BEACH
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
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>>
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Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel

[Josh Muckley]

Are we assuming a run away diesel?  Why not just put your hand over the
intake pipe?  I assume that is where you are spraying "stuff".

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk

-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On May 20, 2013 2:24 PM, "Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR" <
keith.morgenst...@navy.mil> wrote:

> I suspect a can of any kind of non-oxygen stuff.
>
> Lately you can get cans of Argon (marketed under "Bloxygen"). They sell it
> to displace the oxygen out of paint cans for storage, but if you are faced
> with a runaway diesel...it couldn’t hurt!
>
> -Keith Morgenstern
> C&C 35-3 CB
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Chuck S [mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net]
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 22:10
> To: billb...@sbcglobal.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Stopping a diesel
>
> A long time ago, someone suggested keeping a spray can of something to
> stop a diesel.  What was that?
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
>
> 
>
> From: "Bill Bina" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 6:08:27 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a diesel
>
> WD40 is very cagey about revealing that key ingredient. They will
> enthusiastically tell you what it isn't. It isn't Kerosene or fish oil.
> Lately they also swear it is not Stoddard solvent, but that really is
> splitting less than a hair. It is so close to Stoddard solvent in makeup
> that it is functionally the same thing. Stoddard Solvent is a bit more
> refined than kerosene, but for starting a balky diesel, it is close
> enough to water-white kerosene to work for that purpose. I think it has
> a lower flash point than Stoddard solvent, which is an asset for this
> purpose. The term Stoddard Solvent covers a range of petroleum
> distillates. If someone calls the main ingredient of WD-40 "Stoddard
> Solvent", I don't think you can call them wrong, regardless of marketing
> department claims to the contrary.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 5/17/2013 6:00 PM, Knowles Rich wrote:
> > I've never even tried to burn WD40. Fish oil???
> >
> > Rich Knowles
> > Indigo. LF38
> > Halifax
>
>
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Stus-List Overheat 3GMD

[Robert Gallagher]

>
> Regarding your over heating problem and intermittent water flow;

I would look onto an acid flush. As a previous long time Atomic Four
owner and lover my first guess would be scale in the coolant passages.
Maybe some broke loose and is floating around in there, too big to pass,
too small to create a complete blockage. A good soak with the right acid
flush could take care of it.

You will be shocked at the gunk that spews out of your exhaust.  I won't
comment on the proper method for flushing this engine, just that it could
work wonders

Just be sure to find out the proper procedure for that engine and follow
all the safety guidelines.

Then maybe it's time to add that heat exchanger?

Good luck!!
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Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Robert Abbott]

Don:

One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your 
raw water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system 
will suck in air and not enough water to cool your engine.


If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have 
put it back together tight enough.  How do I know this? Daa!


Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2013/05/23 11:13 PM, Dennis C. wrote:

Good suggestion from Rich.  Even a new impeller can spin.

Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump.  
Disconnect the discharge at the pump.  Start the engine and check for 
flow there.  (It won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no 
water flow.)  Try to stop the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or 
your hand.  If the flow and pressure are good, move downstream.  If no 
flow or you can stop the flow then the issue is the pump or ahead of 
the pump.


If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you 
cleaned.  Check for flow and pressure there.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



*From:* Knowles Rich 
*To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
*Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the
bronze insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can
happen with a new or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as
the rubber vanes may look perfect.

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, "Don Jonsson" mailto:dbjons...@shaw.ca>> wrote:

Hi
I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel. 
The culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing

elbow, because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For
a while.
So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper
cleaning.  I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by
blowing through them and the engine.
I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like
it is supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit -- needed a
new gasket, but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would
work.  Got a new gasket and put it on.  Started up and no water.
I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked -- slightly
corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything
back together and started it up and a bit of water but too much
steam.  Took the thermostat out and put it in more carefully. 
Tried again, water running, no steam everything is perfect.  Ran

it for a while just to be sure.
Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again. 
No water.

So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it
wasn't that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the
thermostat -- I don't think although I will replace it.
The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.
  And I'm stumped.
This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different. 
Has anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.

Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local
mechanic had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to
find part numbers for that engine?
Thanks to anyone that can help.
Don
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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Joel Aronson]

Heat exchanger?  Raw water cooled so that's a possibility

Joel Aronson


On May 23, 2013, at 10:56 PM, Robert Abbott 
wrote:

 Don:

One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your
raw water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system
will suck in air and not enough water to cool your engine.

If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have
put it back together tight enough.  How do I know this?  Daa!

Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2013/05/23 11:13 PM, Dennis C. wrote:

Good suggestion from Rich.  Even a new impeller can spin.

Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump.
Disconnect the discharge at the pump.  Start the engine and check for flow
there.  (It won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no water
flow.)  Try to stop the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or your hand.
If the flow and pressure are good, move downstream.  If no flow or you can
stop the flow then the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump.

If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you cleaned.
Check for flow and pressure there.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


  --
 *From:* Knowles Rich  
*To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 
*Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

 Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze
insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a
new or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may
look perfect.

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, "Don Jonsson"  wrote:

  Hi

I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The
culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because
generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.

So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper
cleaning.  I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing
through them and the engine.

I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is
supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit – needed a new gasket, but
I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and
put it on.  Started up and no water.

I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked – slightly corroded
but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and
started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat
out and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam
everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.

Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.

So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn’t
that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat – I don’t
think although I will replace it.

The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And
I’m stumped.

This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has anyone
had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.

Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic
had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers
for that engine?

Thanks to anyone that can help.
Don

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 88, Issue 84

[Tom B]

Don

My guess ( just because noone mentioned it yet) would be a clogged heat 
exchanger.  It was a problem for me on my 35 MK 1, but that was an A4.  Not too 
sure it would apply to your diesel.

Tom Buscaglia
Alera
C&C 37/40
Vashon WA
> 
> 
> From: Don Jonsson 
> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 9:00 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> 
> I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The 
> culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because 
> generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.
> 
> 
> 
> So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning.  
> I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing through them and 
> the engine.
> 
> 
> 
> I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is 
> supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit ? needed a new gasket, but I 
> knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and put 
> it on.  Started up and no water.
> 
> 
> 
> I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked ? slightly corroded 
> but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and 
> started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat out 
> and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam 
> everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.
> 
> 
> 
> Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.
> 
> 
> 
> So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn?t 
> that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat ? I don?t 
> think although I will replace it.  
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And I?m 
> stumped. 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has anyone 
> had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic had 
> to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers for 
> that engine?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks 

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Jim Watts]

My sea hood was leaking into the cabin through several circuitous routes,
once I rebedded the whole thing (and cleaned out all the old goo underneath
it) about 6 leaks disappeared.


On 23 May 2013 18:33, Jake Brodersen  wrote:

> I was going to say it was the traveler.  Mine wept a bit until I rebedded
> it with butyl.
>
> ** **
>
> Jake
>
> ** **
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *Midnight Mistress*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
> *   *
>
> [image: cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940]**
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *dwight
> veinot
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 11:36 AM
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
>
> ** **
>
> I am betting on the companion way slide hatch
>
> ** **
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[Dennis C.]

Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This ought to be 
interesting.


Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures and the 
advantages of each.





Note the disagreement on whether to recover the MOB on the windward or the 
leeward side.  Also note that one site recommends immediate deployment of the 
MOB marker and one site says to deploy it if first attempt at recovery fails.


Which methods do you favor?  Are you prepared?  Does your crew know what to do?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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