Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??)
Hello Richard, Our 37+ carries 80 US gallons of water, split over 3 water tanks as follows: Tank Capacity, Water: 299 litres (66 Imp Gal. - 79 US Gal) Bow Tank: 87 litres (19 Imp Gal. - 23 US Gal) Port Tank: 106 litres (23.3 Imp Gal. - 28 US Gal) Starboard Tank: 106 litres (23.3 Imp Gal. - 28 US Gal) This was the factory set up in 1990. I assume this is what all the 37+'s really have except a few that never had holding tanks that carry 100 US Gallons of water. Our's started life with four water tanks and no holding tank as it was originally located in Halifax, NS, where overboard discharge used to be permitted. We find that enough for two couples for about a week if we take a bit of care. We can usually go for a swim or two every day where we are (typically the Bras d'Or Lake system) so we may shower only every 2nd day. I prefer the traveller on the bridgedeck in the cockpit, but that's me. I like to trim and tweak sails frequently so I find it's location there ideal. There will have to be a gap between a bimini and the dodger because of this traveller location. Ken H. On 25 August 2013 23:56, Richard Walter sailind...@yahoo.com wrote: Ken, Thanks for the reply and the photos. It DOES look like a sweet ride. I have a few questions about the design: How id the tankage? I see similar boats on Yachtworld carry 60 gallons of water. Is that enough for weeklong-or-more cruising? Showering? How do you like the mainsheet/traveler in the cockpit? Is it in your face? How would you rig a bimini? Thanks, Richard -- *From:* Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com *To:* cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Sunday, August 25, 2013 9:27 PM *Subject:* Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??) Of course I'm with Josh and Edd on this. I posted these photos back in July but I'll throw then out again. The aft cabin on a 37+ it looks like this: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-012Obd94ATA/T00NoOqd4PI/BDo/yzYMUFphrBo/w600-h434-no/Nina14.jpg The aft bed is a queen size. My wife is quite fond of that cabin... The rest of the interior ain't too shabby either: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SGUTt8WmoBs/TMzYnKHI4HI/Jkg/_m8Hr53wRsk/w958-h719-no/IMG_1779.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aahIPlK4ALA/S3yIdzFKWOI/Jkg/wKyCXdqfjDU/w958-h660-no/40b3p0203.jpg Anne I go out with just the two of us frequently, even on days when we need two reefs in the main and the Genoa furled down to less than 100% Of course the boat is also very comfortable with two couples for week long cruises, each couple having the privacy of their own cabin. I think the 34+ is very similar, with the berth in the aft cabin arranged a bit differently. Ken H. On 25 August 2013 20:01, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net wrote: That reminds me of my Hunter 28.5. Waves would occasionally slap against the transom, getting trapped and slapping the heck against the fiberglass. It can make for an interesting night. Jake Jake Brodersen CC 35 Mk-III Midnight Mistress Hampton VA -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 11:36 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??) Just keep in mind that aft cabins can be noisy at anchor with waves slapping the underside of the transom skirt. Everything is a compromise John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Backstay
All, I think my mounts are original and have not had any troubles. Here are some pics: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/stern.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/port.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/starboard.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/inside.jpg All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website On Aug 23, 2013, at 11:31 PM, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com wrote: Edd and Ken, Chuck contacted me with concern about the way the PO engineered a fix for this weakness. Now I can't help being equally interested in pictures of your boats. Josh -- When privacy matters. http://www.secure-my-email.com On Aug 22, 2013 10:31 AM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Rich, I also have a 1990 CC 37+ based in City Island. I've had the boat for 8 years now, and have not had a problem with our backstay mounts either. I'll take a close look this weekend at it all and take some photos if you like. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website On Aug 21, 2013, at 9:03 PM, Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com wrote: I haven't had to do anything to either of our backstays mounts. I have been told no to go over 2,500 psi on the rams though, so I don't. This boat was raced quite a bit in the past, including several Marblehead to Halifax Ocean Races so if they were going to let go, you'd think they would have by now. There is a 37+ in the area that has tangs sticking up through the transom instead of the pair of U bolts. I haven't seen what he has inside backing them up though. Ken H. On 21 August 2013 20:55, j...@svpaws.net j...@svpaws.net wrote: That's the boat I remember reading about! John Sent from my iPad On Aug 21, 2013, at 7:24 PM, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com wrote: Its not Blue Pearl is it? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD -- When privacy matters. http://www.secure-my-email.com On Aug 21, 2013 6:44 PM, Rhhulit rhhu...@optonline.net wrote: Hi would you post this? Thanks! This list is very helpful. We are recent owners of a 1990 37+. I put some backstay on while motorsailing this weekend and managed to partially pull the ridiculously poorly engineered mount.I have some ideas on repair-grind off the bulge, big backing plate and a proper chain plate tang- but I was wondering what others have done. Thanks Richard H. Hulit, Jr. CC37+ Kindred Greenwich, CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Backstay
Joel, Funny you said that. When I did the look-see to take the photos, I noticed that as well. Everything appears to be solid though. I may redo it over the winter just to be extra safe. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website On Aug 26, 2013, at 9:52 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Edd, It looks like you have dis-similar metals with an aluminum backing plate and stainless bolts. I'd take a close look at them. Joel ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Backstay
The joy of boat ownership! Joel On Mon, Aug 26, 2013 at 9:57 AM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Joel, Funny you said that. When I did the look-see to take the photos, I noticed that as well. Everything appears to be solid though. I may redo it over the winter just to be extra safe. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Websitehttp://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ On Aug 26, 2013, at 9:52 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Edd, It looks like you have dis-similar metals with an aluminum backing plate and stainless bolts. I'd take a close look at them. Joel ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Drained AGM battery
I am beginning to feel that I have bad karma with my new boat. First the good news: based on all the advice I received, the Universal starting issue seems definitely fixed- since I cleaned the ground connection, it has started smoothly every time. The only strange thing is that all the directions I have read say that you should continue to push the glow plug button while pushing the start button. However, on mine, the engine will not turn over unless I release the glow plug button. Also, the GPS restarts each time I start the engine, which may mean there is still some electrical issue, but neither is a serious problem at this point. Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the bottom and prop as best I could. The shaft and prop were completely crusted with barnacles, so clearly my Pettit zinc coat did not do its job. I may try Velox next spring based on the advice of a local old timer.So yesterday I go went to the boat and found that my #1 battery is completely dead. This is the battery that is wired for the auto-bilge pump switch and propane fume alarm (that is all I know of). The batteries are 2 month old Power-tech AGM group 27's. I could not get much of any charge after a day of running the engine for a few hours totals.Questions:1. do new batteries fail at some rate?2. Will an AGM charge from the alternator if fully discharged? If so, roughly how long would it take? I brought it home and tried to use my smart charger and that is not charging it at all (the charging light does not come on).Perhaps related- I twice was on the boat briefly during the week and found the Xintex propane fume alarm going. Both times I checked the propane system and the tank shutoff was closed and all switches were off. So I don't believe there were really propane fumes in the cabin. So could the sensor have failed? Could the alarm going for many many hours drain the battery (I don't think the bilge pump is doing it). David KnechtAries1990 CC 34+New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Backstay
I'm pretty sure that is how all the 37+'s look right up until the u-bolt pulls the blacking plate and top of the fiberglass step clean off the boat. Keep a close eye on it. Josh -- When privacy matters. http://www.secure-my-email.com On Aug 26, 2013 9:57 AM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Joel, Funny you said that. When I did the look-see to take the photos, I noticed that as well. Everything appears to be solid though. I may redo it over the winter just to be extra safe. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Websitehttp://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ On Aug 26, 2013, at 9:52 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Edd, It looks like you have dis-similar metals with an aluminum backing plate and stainless bolts. I'd take a close look at them. Joel ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery
David, Sounds like normal growing pains (in the a__). Don't get discouraged. Glow plugs draw a lot of current. My GPS restarts when I start the engine also. Do you know what alternator/regulator are on the boat? Sounds like a bad sensor. How long since you were last on board? I would imagine the alarm would drain a battery if it were on for a couple weeks. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Mon, Aug 26, 2013 at 10:04 AM, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.comwrote: I am beginning to feel that I have bad karma with my new boat. First the good news: based on all the advice I received, the Universal starting issue seems definitely fixed- since I cleaned the ground connection, it has started smoothly every time. The only strange thing is that all the directions I have read say that you should continue to push the glow plug button while pushing the start button. However, on mine, the engine will not turn over unless I release the glow plug button. Also, the GPS restarts each time I start the engine, which may mean there is still some electrical issue, but neither is a serious problem at this point. Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the bottom and prop as best I could. The shaft and prop were completely crusted with barnacles, so clearly my Pettit zinc coat did not do its job. I may try Velox next spring based on the advice of a local old timer. So yesterday I go went to the boat and found that my #1 battery is completely dead. This is the battery that is wired for the auto-bilge pump switch and propane fume alarm (that is all I know of). The batteries are 2 month old Power-tech AGM group 27's. I could not get much of any charge after a day of running the engine for a few hours totals. Questions: 1. do new batteries fail at some rate? 2. Will an AGM charge from the alternator if fully discharged? If so, roughly how long would it take? I brought it home and tried to use my smart charger and that is not charging it at all (the charging light does not come on). Perhaps related- I twice was on the boat briefly during the week and found the Xintex propane fume alarm going. Both times I checked the propane system and the tank shutoff was closed and all switches were off. So I don't believe there were really propane fumes in the cabin. So could the sensor have failed? Could the alarm going for many many hours drain the battery (I don't think the bilge pump is doing it). David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 pastedGraphic.tiff___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery
David, Even a brand new AGM battery, fully drained, may not take a charge again. If your home charger doesn't give you any results, you may have a bad one on your hands. Most batteries do come with warranties, so if it's not too old, you may be able to make a swap with the retailer or manufacturer. Depending on the amp draw of the alarm, yes, it could drain your battery after a few hours. So could a bilge pump if the float switch gets crusted into the on position (Happened to me once - now I use the sensor type). As for the sensor, yes, it could have failed, but most times failure means it won't sound when there's a problem, not continue to sound. I would check all your hoses and the valve. Also check the bottom of the tank in case there's a hole. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website On Aug 26, 2013, at 10:04 AM, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote: I am beginning to feel that I have bad karma with my new boat. First the good news: based on all the advice I received, the Universal starting issue seems definitely fixed- since I cleaned the ground connection, it has started smoothly every time. The only strange thing is that all the directions I have read say that you should continue to push the glow plug button while pushing the start button. However, on mine, the engine will not turn over unless I release the glow plug button. Also, the GPS restarts each time I start the engine, which may mean there is still some electrical issue, but neither is a serious problem at this point. Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the bottom and prop as best I could. The shaft and prop were completely crusted with barnacles, so clearly my Pettit zinc coat did not do its job. I may try Velox next spring based on the advice of a local old timer. So yesterday I go went to the boat and found that my #1 battery is completely dead. This is the battery that is wired for the auto-bilge pump switch and propane fume alarm (that is all I know of). The batteries are 2 month old Power-tech AGM group 27's. I could not get much of any charge after a day of running the engine for a few hours totals. Questions: 1. do new batteries fail at some rate? 2. Will an AGM charge from the alternator if fully discharged? If so, roughly how long would it take? I brought it home and tried to use my smart charger and that is not charging it at all (the charging light does not come on). Perhaps related- I twice was on the boat briefly during the week and found the Xintex propane fume alarm going. Both times I checked the propane system and the tank shutoff was closed and all switches were off. So I don't believe there were really propane fumes in the cabin. So could the sensor have failed? Could the alarm going for many many hours drain the battery (I don't think the bilge pump is doing it). David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery
David: Someone may have messed with the start circuitry. They glow plugs and start circuit should be interlocked so the start will not engage without the glow plug button depressed. Your GPS is restarting because it is in the se battery that is starting your engine and the battery voltage drops below the GPS minimum operating voltage when the starter motor is operating. Your gas sensor could flatten the battery over a few days if it was sounding constantly. Your battery may have failed if you can't even get it charging at home. I suggest getting it checked by the supplier or any good automotive electric shop. It sounds to me as though some upgrading is in order sir your electrical system that would separate the batteries into a house bank and an engine start bank. I can provide a functional diagram if you wish. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-08-26, at 11:04, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote: I am beginning to feel that I have bad karma with my new boat. First the good news: based on all the advice I received, the Universal starting issue seems definitely fixed- since I cleaned the ground connection, it has started smoothly every time. The only strange thing is that all the directions I have read say that you should continue to push the glow plug button while pushing the start button. However, on mine, the engine will not turn over unless I release the glow plug button. Also, the GPS restarts each time I start the engine, which may mean there is still some electrical issue, but neither is a serious problem at this point. Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the bottom and prop as best I could. The shaft and prop were completely crusted with barnacles, so clearly my Pettit zinc coat did not do its job. I may try Velox next spring based on the advice of a local old timer. So yesterday I go went to the boat and found that my #1 battery is completely dead. This is the battery that is wired for the auto-bilge pump switch and propane fume alarm (that is all I know of). The batteries are 2 month old Power-tech AGM group 27's. I could not get much of any charge after a day of running the engine for a few hours totals. Questions: 1. do new batteries fail at some rate? 2. Will an AGM charge from the alternator if fully discharged? If so, roughly how long would it take? I brought it home and tried to use my smart charger and that is not charging it at all (the charging light does not come on). Perhaps related- I twice was on the boat briefly during the week and found the Xintex propane fume alarm going. Both times I checked the propane system and the tank shutoff was closed and all switches were off. So I don't believe there were really propane fumes in the cabin. So could the sensor have failed? Could the alarm going for many many hours drain the battery (I don't think the bilge pump is doing it). David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery
On Aug 26, 2013, at 10:16 AM, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca wrote: It sounds to me as though some upgrading is in order sir your electrical system that would separate the batteries into a house bank and an engine start bank. I can provide a functional diagram if you wish. I do have a house and starting bank and it is the house bank that died. The starting battery works fine and that is how I tried to recharge the house battery yesterday on the boat. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-08-26, at 11:04, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote: I am beginning to feel that I have bad karma with my new boat. First the good news: based on all the advice I received, the Universal starting issue seems definitely fixed- since I cleaned the ground connection, it has started smoothly every time. The only strange thing is that all the directions I have read say that you should continue to push the glow plug button while pushing the start button. However, on mine, the engine will not turn over unless I release the glow plug button. Also, the GPS restarts each time I start the engine, which may mean there is still some electrical issue, but neither is a serious problem at this point. Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the bottom and prop as best I could. The shaft and prop were completely crusted with barnacles, so clearly my Pettit zinc coat did not do its job. I may try Velox next spring based on the advice of a local old timer. So yesterday I go went to the boat and found that my #1 battery is completely dead. This is the battery that is wired for the auto-bilge pump switch and propane fume alarm (that is all I know of). The batteries are 2 month old Power-tech AGM group 27's. I could not get much of any charge after a day of running the engine for a few hours totals. Questions: 1. do new batteries fail at some rate? 2. Will an AGM charge from the alternator if fully discharged? If so, roughly how long would it take? I brought it home and tried to use my smart charger and that is not charging it at all (the charging light does not come on). Perhaps related- I twice was on the boat briefly during the week and found the Xintex propane fume alarm going. Both times I checked the propane system and the tank shutoff was closed and all switches were off. So I don't believe there were really propane fumes in the cabin. So could the sensor have failed? Could the alarm going for many many hours drain the battery (I don't think the bilge pump is doing it). David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility Department of Molecular and Cell Biology U-3125 91 N. Eagleville Rd. University of Connecticut Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 860-486-4331 (fax) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List CC Classic Cove Stripes
Hi Curtis, I just bought a 34/36 and I am re-doing the cove stripes on it. The CC emblem flanking the sides of the bow were easy to find Holland Marine in Missisauga Ontario (www.hollandmarine.com) makes reproductions. However, After many hours of scoring the web I was not able to find 1/16 - 1/4 - 1/16 stripes that came originally on the boat as an easy to apply package but found a way around it: Great Lakes Skipper ( www.greatlakesskipper.com) Sells Bayliner stripes that are dark blue and almost a perfect match for the CC logo stripes. The bonus is that the 1/16 stripes come with a backing that gives you the exact 1/16 spacing you need to build-up the 3 stripes look without looking like a 6 year old did it. ( http://greatlakesskipper.com/bayliner-1-8-inch-dark-blue-boat-pinstripe ) Since the cove stripe area is recessed on my hull you simply apply the 1st 1/16 stripe on the edge of the recess (A masking tape base strip can help for this:). Next, lay the 1/4 stripe against the pattern indicator of the 1st stripe, then lay the 3rd 1/16 stripe using its pattern indicator. -Done. One of my rub strips had a rash from a PO hitting a dock so I also bought a new rub strip from SouthShore marine (A bit spendy at 250.00 per side but cleans-up the look considerably) . Combine that with a combination Woody wash / wax and good old fashion compound / carnauba wax job on the whole boat: Looking pretty spiffy my friend. -Francois ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List recaulking toerails
I need to recaulk the toerails on my 32' CC. My thought is to remove the bolts, clean out all the old material between the underside of the deck and the rubrail and between the bottom of the toerail and the top of the deck. I would use Skiaflex to reseal these areas and Buytul tape for the bolt holes. Any thoughts, experiences? Jesse A. Rieber Witch of the Westmoreland 32' CC, Cotuit, Cape Cod, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC Classic Cove Stripes
What was the configuration of your rub strip (ie. how was it mounted) and what did you run into replacing it? To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com From: jfriv...@us.ibm.com Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 10:29:21 -0400 Subject: Stus-List CC Classic Cove Stripes Hi Curtis, I just bought a 34/36 and I am re-doing the cove stripes on it. The CC emblem flanking the sides of the bow were easy to find Holland Marine in Missisauga Ontario (www.hollandmarine.com) makes reproductions. However, After many hours of scoring the web I was not able to find 1/16 - 1/4 - 1/16 stripes that came originally on the boat as an easy to apply package but found a way around it: Great Lakes Skipper (www.greatlakesskipper.com) Sells Bayliner stripes that are dark blue and almost a perfect match for the CC logo stripes. The bonus is that the 1/16 stripes come with a backing that gives you the exact 1/16 spacing you need to build-up the 3 stripes look without looking like a 6 year old did it. (http://greatlakesskipper.com/bayliner-1-8-inch-dark-blue-boat-pinstripe ) Since the cove stripe area is recessed on my hull you simply apply the 1st 1/16 stripe on the edge of the recess (A masking tape base strip can help for this:). Next, lay the 1/4 stripe against the pattern indicator of the 1st stripe, then lay the 3rd 1/16 stripe using its pattern indicator. -Done. One of my rub strips had a rash from a PO hitting a dock so I also bought a new rub strip from SouthShore marine (A bit spendy at 250.00 per side but cleans-up the look considerably) . Combine that with a combination Woody wash / wax and good old fashion compound / carnauba wax job on the whole boat: Looking pretty spiffy my friend. -Francois ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery
Ok. My other comment still stand;) Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-08-26, at 11:27, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote: On Aug 26, 2013, at 10:16 AM, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca wrote: It sounds to me as though some upgrading is in order sir your electrical system that would separate the batteries into a house bank and an engine start bank. I can provide a functional diagram if you wish. I do have a house and starting bank and it is the house bank that died. The starting battery works fine and that is how I tried to recharge the house battery yesterday on the boat. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-08-26, at 11:04, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote: I am beginning to feel that I have bad karma with my new boat. First the good news: based on all the advice I received, the Universal starting issue seems definitely fixed- since I cleaned the ground connection, it has started smoothly every time. The only strange thing is that all the directions I have read say that you should continue to push the glow plug button while pushing the start button. However, on mine, the engine will not turn over unless I release the glow plug button. Also, the GPS restarts each time I start the engine, which may mean there is still some electrical issue, but neither is a serious problem at this point. Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the bottom and prop as best I could. The shaft and prop were completely crusted with barnacles, so clearly my Pettit zinc coat did not do its job. I may try Velox next spring based on the advice of a local old timer. So yesterday I go went to the boat and found that my #1 battery is completely dead. This is the battery that is wired for the auto-bilge pump switch and propane fume alarm (that is all I know of). The batteries are 2 month old Power-tech AGM group 27's. I could not get much of any charge after a day of running the engine for a few hours totals. Questions: 1. do new batteries fail at some rate? 2. Will an AGM charge from the alternator if fully discharged? If so, roughly how long would it take? I brought it home and tried to use my smart charger and that is not charging it at all (the charging light does not come on). Perhaps related- I twice was on the boat briefly during the week and found the Xintex propane fume alarm going. Both times I checked the propane system and the tank shutoff was closed and all switches were off. So I don't believe there were really propane fumes in the cabin. So could the sensor have failed? Could the alarm going for many many hours drain the battery (I don't think the bilge pump is doing it). David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility Department of Molecular and Cell Biology U-3125 91 N. Eagleville Rd. University of Connecticut Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 860-486-4331 (fax) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 91, Issue 91
So here is what we are doing on Kindred's stern- both sides: Grind off bump Repair glass / core Add g-10 backer over a large portion of stern (inside) Add new t shaped tang (like wichard baby stay tang) with new ss backing plate (3x8 or so) Repaint stern which was needed anyway I will post pics Richard H. Hulit, Jr. On Aug 26, 2013, at 10:29 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of CnC-List digest.. Today's Topics: 1. Re: 37+ Backstay (Edd Schillay) 2. Re: 37+ Backstay (Joel Aronson) 3. Drained AGM battery (David Knecht) 4. Re: 37+ Backstay (Josh Muckley) 5. Re: Drained AGM battery (Joel Aronson) 6. Re: Drained AGM battery (Edd Schillay) 7. Re: Drained AGM battery (Knowles Rich) 8. Re: Drained AGM battery (David Knecht) 9. CC Classic Cove Stripes (Jean-Francois J Rivard) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 09:57:00 -0400 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Backstay Message-ID: f59caddc-5990-433c-8760-0f9dbcbeb...@schillay.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Joel, Funny you said that. When I did the look-see to take the photos, I noticed that as well. Everything appears to be solid though. I may redo it over the winter just to be extra safe. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website On Aug 26, 2013, at 9:52 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Edd, It looks like you have dis-similar metals with an aluminum backing plate and stainless bolts. I'd take a close look at them. Joel -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130826/fa4c0f56/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 2 Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 10:01:33 -0400 From: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Backstay Message-ID: cael16p_u_s2n1cdd6igs2wyeodzzp5fidwkjnaqy9dznhbw...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 The joy of boat ownership! Joel On Mon, Aug 26, 2013 at 9:57 AM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Joel, Funny you said that. When I did the look-see to take the photos, I noticed that as well. Everything appears to be solid though. I may redo it over the winter just to be extra safe. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Websitehttp://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ On Aug 26, 2013, at 9:52 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Edd, It looks like you have dis-similar metals with an aluminum backing plate and stainless bolts. I'd take a close look at them. Joel ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130826/e1f8cdfd/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 3 Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 10:04:36 -0400 From: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com To: CnC CnC discussion list CnC-List@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Drained AGM battery Message-ID: 3e402941-2117-4d9c-a5d2-31c10524a...@gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I am beginning to feel that I have bad karma with my new boat. First the good news: based on all the advice I received, the Universal starting issue seems definitely fixed- since I cleaned the ground connection, it has started smoothly every time. The only strange thing is that all the directions I have read say that you should continue to push the glow plug button while pushing the start button. However, on mine, the engine will not turn over unless I release the glow plug button. Also, the GPS restarts each time I start the engine, which may mean there is still some electrical issue, but neither is a serious problem at this point. Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the bottom and prop as best I could. The shaft and prop were
Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry
Hey Rick, Got those winches installed, wow what an improvement! Thanks for the help. Sorry for my goof with the money. Need an address to send the $100 Thanks James - Original Message - From: Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 10:15 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry Interesting. Hull number 100 (some of the internal documents in my build file show my boat as 380047 with an extra 0, even though the HIN is 38047.) I have been told that production of the 38 mk2 started around 090, and around September of 1976. I would think that would make Delaney a 1977 model. Something similar to your situation happened with my 25, and I didn't notice it until I moved to NC and had to get it titled. The HIN on the plate in the cockpit has an extra 0 on it, so the HIN and the metal plate did not match. Neither did the bill of sale from Maryland and my registration from Pennsylvania match the HIN molded into the transom. Had a heck of a time convincing the NCDMV to give me a title and NC registration numbers. I looked up Delany in the USCG Documentation database. Besides the partial HIN, I also noticed that your gross tonnage is greater than Imzadi's, but the net tonnage is the same. Rick Brass -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 6:32 PM To: billb...@sbcglobal.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry Rick, To throw some more confusion into the picture, My 1976 38 does not have any marking on the transom, only the manufacturer plate in the cockpit, and the serial number does not have any MIC letters, just numbers. It is stamped with the number 380100-76. All of the paperwork that I have shows the serial number from the plate, no MIC letter codes. I don't have the builder's file, but I think I'll call South Shore and see if I can get it. James Delany 1976 38 MkII Oriental, NC - Original Message - From: Bill Bina billb...@sbcglobal.net To: Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 11:11 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry Your 25 was no doubt built in Canada and has an accurate MIC for the Canadian plant, as the Rhode Island plant didn't exist when that boat was built. When it was built, CCY was still the legal MIC for CC Yachts of Canada. That changed irrevocably when the Rhode Island plant went online in February 1976 and the CCY MIC was assigned to Rhode Island. Something is amiss with your paperwork if it says your 38 was built in the U.S., yet has a ZCC MIC. There are at least a couple issues with that. The first is that, as I stated, those numbers are not governed by the manufacturer. You cannot randomly use different Social Security numbers, either. The other issue is that I do not believe the Middletown plant was building 38's in 1976. The molds were in Canada. Maybe they left out a step, or fudged the paper work for some unknown reason. If that hull has a ZCC MIC, then it was laid up in Canada, or else laws were broken. If the paperwork said the incomplete hull was exported to Rhode Island for completion, then shipped back to Canada for some unexpected further work that could not be done in Rhode Island, or a sale fell through, I suppose that would be plausible. The MIC portion of the HIN legally indicates the point of origin. Bill Bina On 7/12/2013 10:13 PM, Rick Brass wrote: Bill; My 25 is certainly a CCY and the customs documentation shows it was made in Canada and shipped to the US in very early 75. The 38, which is a Mk1, HIN 047, has the manufacturers code ZCC. It was made in Rhode Island in early 76, and was listed as ZCC on the customs documentation when shipped to NOTL for addition of optional equipment, and also as ZCC when reimported to Mt. Clemens, MI. I'd need to check the builders file on the boat, but IIRC, the second customs paperwork shows the Canadian content to be about $2k of a total value of about $36K. As I said, I'm curious whether anyone on the list has a 25 mk1 that is not a CCY. Now I'm curious to know if there are and 38s with HIN of 89 or lower (HIN 90 from about September 76 was the approximate break between the MK1 and the MK2, I've been told)that is a CCY? BTW, the ZCC code is still in the USCG database, assigned to CC Yachts on Regent St in NOTL, Ontario. The CCY code has apparently been reassigned to something called Calder Building Co in Mesa, AZ. And there is a CC Boatbuilding (CCW) that is in Sargentville, ME. What does Tartan.CC use for the current models of CC? Rick Brass -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 3:54 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry The manufacturer codes are not something the manufacturer can play around with. CC was ASSIGNED
Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue
I just installed two 100 watt Arenco panels through an MPPT controller ... and it works very well, very happy with the output. I've got 320 amp hour AGM house battery bank and a 120 amp hour starting battery connected through a battery isolator switch (can keep them seperate or connect them into one big bank). Link 20 monitor function for solar panels has been switch on. The issue: I connected the controller output to the starting battery (because of the size of the terminals on that battery), keept the battery isolator switch in the connect everything together position and what happens is the house bank shows charging via the solar panels, but the starting always shows a discharge. I don't know why ... On a recent trip of a week without shore power the solar panels almost keept up with demand (fridge/freezer on all the time) maybe a minus 50 amps at the end of the trip on the house bank, while the starting battery showed a minus 500 amps at the end of the trip! I believe that this is simply a link monitor issue and that this is (obviously) not reality. Any Ideas on what can be done to get the link indicating correctly would be appreciated. Perhaps when the battery banks are not isolated the link then reads this as one bank only, and the starting one is just recording the amount of power pulled from the bank over time ... Thanks for any feedback! Bruce Bolton CC35III Apple Tree ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry
I've got an extra zero on my build docs too.Plate in the cockpit has one extra 0 compared to the # on the transom. Sam SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: jtsailsSent: Monday, August 26, 2013 9:47 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - SorryHey Rick,Got those winches installed, wow what an improvement! Thanks for the help.Sorry for my goof with the money.Need an address to send the $100ThanksJames- Original Message - From: "Rick Brass" rickbr...@earthlink.netTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 10:15 PMSubject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry Interesting. Hull number 100 (some of the internal documents in my build file show my boat as 380047 with an extra 0, even though the HIN is 38047.) I have been told that production of the 38 mk2 started around 090, and around September of 1976. I would think that would make Delaney a 1977 model. Something similar to your situation happened with my 25, and I didn't notice it until I moved to NC and had to get it titled. The HIN on the plate in the cockpit has an extra 0 on it, so the HIN and the metal plate did not match. Neither did the bill of sale from Maryland and my registration from Pennsylvania match the HIN molded into the transom. Had a heck of a time convincing the NCDMV to give me a title and NC registration numbers. I looked up Delany in the USCG Documentation database. Besides the partial HIN, I also noticed that your gross tonnage is greater than Imzadi's, but the net tonnage is the same. Rick Brass -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 6:32 PM To: billb...@sbcglobal.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry Rick, To throw some more confusion into the picture, My 1976 38 does not have any marking on the transom, only the manufacturer plate in the cockpit, and the serial number does not have any MIC letters, just numbers. It is stamped with the number "380100-76". All of the paperwork that I have shows the serial number from the plate, no MIC letter codes. I don't have the builder's file, but I think I'll call South Shore and see if I can get it. James Delany 1976 38 MkII Oriental, NC - Original Message - From: "Bill Bina" billb...@sbcglobal.net To: "Rick Brass" rickbr...@earthlink.net Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 11:11 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry Your 25 was no doubt built in Canada and has an accurate MIC for the Canadian plant, as the Rhode Island plant didn't exist when that boat was built. When it was built, CCY was still the legal MIC for CC Yachts of Canada. That changed irrevocably when the Rhode Island plant went online in February 1976 and the CCY MIC was assigned to Rhode Island. Something is amiss with your paperwork if it says your 38 was built in the U.S., yet has a ZCC MIC. There are at least a couple issues with that. The first is that, as I stated, those numbers are not governed by the manufacturer. You cannot randomly use different Social Security numbers, either. The other issue is that I do not believe the Middletown plant was building 38's in 1976. The molds were in Canada. Maybe they left out a step, or fudged the paper work for some unknown reason. If that hull has a ZCC MIC, then it was laid up in Canada, or else laws were broken. If the paperwork said the incomplete hull was exported to Rhode Island for completion, then shipped back to Canada for some unexpected further work that could not be done in Rhode Island, or a sale fell through, I suppose that would be plausible. The MIC portion of the HIN legally indicates the point of origin. Bill Bina On 7/12/2013 10:13 PM, Rick Brass wrote: Bill; My 25 is certainly a CCY and the customs documentation shows it was made in Canada and shipped to the US in very early 75. The 38, which is a Mk1, HIN 047, has the manufacturers code ZCC. It was made in Rhode Island in early 76, and was listed as ZCC on the customs documentation when shipped to NOTL for "addition of optional equipment", and also as ZCC when reimported to Mt. Clemens, MI. I'd need to check the builders file on the boat, but IIRC, the second customs paperwork shows the Canadian content to be about $2k of a total value of about $36K. As I said, I'm curious whether anyone on the list has a 25 mk1 that is not a CCY. Now I'm curious to know if there are and 38s with HIN of 89 or
Re: Stus-List recaulking toerails
This .pdf is a summary of what we did this past spring. We only did the back half of the boat on both sides as the front seemed to be fine. You should only do halt of the boat at a time. FYI, we were in our cradle with the mast down on the ground. The bolt holes lined up perfectly when we put the toe rail back one. Kudos to CC for pre-bending the toerail (not so for a buddy with a Hunter 31). http://desiresailing.org/Misc/C http://desiresailing.org/Misc/CC32DeckHullJoint.pdf C32DeckHullJoint.pdf Michael Clow Desire http://desiresailing.org/ , CC 32, Lake St. Clair From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jarie...@aol.com Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 10:35 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List recaulking toerails I need to recaulk the toerails on my 32' CC. My thought is to remove the bolts, clean out all the old material between the underside of the deck and the rubrail and between the bottom of the toerail and the top of the deck. I would use Skiaflex to reseal these areas and Buytul tape for the bolt holes. Any thoughts, experiences? Jesse A. Rieber Witch of the Westmoreland 32' CC, Cotuit, Cape Cod, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry
That was a $50 option. Came with the sports performance package. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com sam.c.sal...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:05 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry I've got an extra zero on my build docs too. Plate in the cockpit has one extra 0 compared to the # on the transom. Sam Salter CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: jtsails Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 9:47 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry Hey Rick, Got those winches installed, wow what an improvement! Thanks for the help. Sorry for my goof with the money. Need an address to send the $100 Thanks James - Original Message - From: Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 10:15 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry Interesting. Hull number 100 (some of the internal documents in my build file show my boat as 380047 with an extra 0, even though the HIN is 38047.) I have been told that production of the 38 mk2 started around 090, and around September of 1976. I would think that would make Delaney a 1977 model. Something similar to your situation happened with my 25, and I didn't notice it until I moved to NC and had to get it titled. The HIN on the plate in the cockpit has an extra 0 on it, so the HIN and the metal plate did not match. Neither did the bill of sale from Maryland and my registration from Pennsylvania match the HIN molded into the transom. Had a heck of a time convincing the NCDMV to give me a title and NC registration numbers. I looked up Delany in the USCG Documentation database. Besides the partial HIN, I also noticed that your gross tonnage is greater than Imzadi's, but the net tonnage is the same. Rick Brass -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 6:32 PM To: billb...@sbcglobal.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry Rick, To throw some more confusion into the picture, My 1976 38 does not have any marking on the transom, only the manufacturer plate in the cockpit, and the serial number does not have any MIC letters, just numbers. It is stamped with the number 380100-76. All of the paperwork that I have shows the serial number from the plate, no MIC letter codes. I don't have the builder's file, but I think I'll call South Shore and see if I can get it. James Delany 1976 38 MkII Oriental, NC - Original Message - From: Bill Bina billb...@sbcglobal.net To: Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 11:11 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry Your 25 was no doubt built in Canada and has an accurate MIC for the Canadian plant, as the Rhode Island plant didn't exist when that boat was built. When it was built, CCY was still the legal MIC for CC Yachts of Canada. That changed irrevocably when the Rhode Island plant went online in February 1976 and the CCY MIC was assigned to Rhode Island. Something is amiss with your paperwork if it says your 38 was built in the U.S., yet has a ZCC MIC. There are at least a couple issues with that. The first is that, as I stated, those numbers are not governed by the manufacturer. You cannot randomly use different Social Security numbers, either. The other issue is that I do not believe the Middletown plant was building 38's in 1976. The molds were in Canada. Maybe they left out a step, or fudged the paper work for some unknown reason. If that hull has a ZCC MIC, then it was laid up in Canada, or else laws were broken. If the paperwork said the incomplete hull was exported to Rhode Island for completion, then shipped back to Canada for some unexpected further work that could not be done in Rhode Island, or a sale fell through, I suppose that would be plausible. The MIC portion of the HIN legally indicates the point of origin. Bill Bina On 7/12/2013 10:13 PM, Rick Brass wrote: Bill; My 25 is certainly a CCY and the customs documentation shows it was made in Canada and shipped to the US in very early 75. The 38, which is a Mk1, HIN 047, has the manufacturers code ZCC. It was made in Rhode Island in early 76, and was listed as ZCC on the customs documentation when shipped to NOTL for addition of optional equipment, and also as ZCC when reimported to Mt. Clemens, MI. I'd need to check the builders file on the boat, but IIRC, the second customs paperwork shows the Canadian content to be about $2k of a total value of about $36K. As I said, I'm curious whether anyone on the list has a 25 mk1 that is not a CCY. Now I'm curious to know if there are and 38s with HIN of 89 or lower (HIN 90 from about September 76 was the
Re: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue
Bruce: Ideally the measuring shunts for the Link 20 should be in series with the negative connections to the batteries with all load negatives connected to the groundymmmsß side of the shunts. ie: Nothing should be connectedness school directly to the battery negative terminals other than the battery side of the shunt. All current will then flow through the shunts and register as charge or discharge on the Link 20. Also ideally, there will be no load other than your starter motor connected to your start battery. Your solar panels should go to the house battery. That's where the major battery charge and discharge events occur. The negative side of the panels go to ground. The engine start battery uses very little and only needs charging occasionally. You can charge your engine start battery by either combining the batteries or using a small regulator such as a Zantrex echo-charge. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-08-26, at 12:43, BRUCE BOLTON bruce.bol...@shaw.ca wrote: I just installed two 100 watt Arenco panels through an MPeseddfPT controller ... and it works very well, very happy with the output. I've got 320 amp hour AGM house battery bank and a 120 amp hour starting battery connected through a battery isolator switch (can keep them seperate or connect them into one big bank). Link 20 monitor function for solar panels has been switch on. The issue: I connected the controller output to the starting battery (because of the size of the terminals on that battery), keept the battery isolator switch in the connect everything together position and what happens is the house bank shows charging via the solar panels, but the starting always shows a discharge. I don't know why ... On a recent trip of a week without shore power the solar panels almost keept up with demand (fridge/freezer on all the time) maybe a minus 50 amps at the end of the trip on the house bank, while the starting battery showed a minus 500 amps at the end of the trip! I believe that this is simply a link monitor issue and that this is (obviously) not reality. Any Ideas on what can be done to get the link indicating correctly would be appreciated. Perhaps when the battery banks are not isolated the link then reads this as one bank only, and the starting one is just recording the amount of power pulled from the bank over time ... Thanks for any feedback! Bruce Bolton CC35III Apple Tree ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Cruising Report - Thoughts for Next Year
We did our first real cruise with Diamond Girl this summer after 3 summers of bopping around locally on the Bruce Peninsula and doing no more than 3 day trips. 2 weeks in the North Channel of Lake Huron (wish it was more). The boat did really well and if its of any interest to others, I have some thoughts and do-differents for next year: The Yanmar 3GM engine is outstanding - thrifty on fuel and more power than the boat really needs. The engine will start with an almost dead battery as well (I tried it on an almost dead house battery - still had cranking battery in reserve) Batteries - we need a 2nd house battery as refrigeration sucks it down fast. On the other hand refrig does not always need to run. A block of ice in the cooler was still substantially there after two weeks even with refrig shut off some nights. Motomaster marine batteries - very disappointed - house battery is only two years old and it was not great. A good lug sanding and tightening and it was better though ... need to check SG and solve house battery issues for next year. Cranking AGM battery (1 yr old) no issues at all but then it was only lightly used. Raymarine E7 chartplotter is one year old and already parts of the touchscreen don't work - very disappointed in this because otherwise it was solid. In for repair! Raymarine Underdeck autohelm - outstanding as I already knew but did confirm conditions under which you need to helm yourself, ie larger quartering seas. I did find the response adjustment helped, and that it seems to reset to standard response when powered off. Sails - we only have a furling #3 for cruising - all others are racing sails. We have no #2. This was a PITA. Need furling #2 for cruising. #1 is way too big a sail to be folding up after use when cruising. Broke 2 lugs on main on high wind day - thanks to all for comments, I now know how to repair. Thanks to John Read for recommendation on 2nd reef - I put it in over the winter and it proved essential. Max wind conditions on our trip were gusting 35-40 knots true - some to weather, some reaching and downwind. Several times sailed in sustained 30 knot true winds. Boat sailed well to weather with 2 reefs and #3 with a couple of times #3 rolled down to a scrap of a sail. Standing and running rigging - no issues - the boat is well laid out with everything brought into cockpit. Boat handling - I was very happy with how the boat handled in big seas. Max about 6 feet at times which on the great lakes can be very nasty due to short wave periods. The boat did lose a lot of speed at times climbing the bigger waves and we had to motorsail a few times to help it keep its speed. Otherwise would drop to 3-4 knots and only slowly get its speed back. My wife is now very comfortable on the helm and can manage the following/quartering seas very well. Cabin layout - no complaints at all except for size of head on the 34. At provisioning stops one is very happy to use a regular bathroom. New Jabsco plunger and joker valve - awesome - thank goodness after problems last year - highly recommended! A pumpout lasted us 4 to 5 days - on the 5th day one time we sailed for several hours in big seas with a full tank and it did not back-leak at all. Sunshower worked fine if you had some privacy outside . . . Canvas - we have none - DG was always a racer. Took a big beach umbrella which worked very well at anchor and also a golf umbrella better suited to a breeze. Both were fine. Boom tent for rain - all did their jobs. Maybe a dodger for next year. Ground tackle - definitely some issues here - we mostly set one or two anchors depending on wind forecasts and holding ground quality. My 35 lb Bruce was great but the 30 lb Delta - so so - it dragged once, and one night in high winds both anchors dragged slightly - very disturbing! We set a stern anchor or tied to shore a few times but more to conform with what other boaters were doing. Need a kellet for next year and also rig up a float to show location of anchor(s). 5' 10 draft - not ideal for cruising the north channel. A couple of minor bumps at anchor and one hard one entering a channel - I envy all you folks with 5 ft or less . . . The North Channel - my first time back there in many years - cruising heaven! Except for some mosquitoes here and there. Cheers, Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl CC 34 Lions Head ON ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Fall Rendezvous, Block Island
for an interesting night. Jake Jake Brodersen CC 35 Mk-III Midnight Mistress Hampton VA -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 11:36 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??) Just keep in mind that aft cabins can be noisy at anchor with waves slapping the underside of the transom skirt. Everything is a compromise John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130826/685bcc30/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 9 Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 09:49:01 -0400 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Backstay Message-ID: b7e22d87-6874-4201-9910-c9aba62c1...@schillay.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 All, I think my mounts are original and have not had any troubles. Here are some pics: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/stern.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/port.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/starboard.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/inside.jpg All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website On Aug 23, 2013, at 11:31 PM, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com wrote: Edd and Ken, Chuck contacted me with concern about the way the PO engineered a fix for this weakness. Now I can't help being equally interested in pictures of your boats. Josh -- When privacy matters. http://www.secure-my-email.com On Aug 22, 2013 10:31 AM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Rich, I also have a 1990 CC 37+ based in City Island. I've had the boat for 8 years now, and have not had a problem with our backstay mounts either. I'll take a close look this weekend at it all and take some photos if you like. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website On Aug 21, 2013, at 9:03 PM, Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com wrote: I haven't had to do anything to either of our backstays mounts. I have been told no to go over 2,500 psi on the rams though, so I don't. This boat was raced quite a bit in the past, including several Marblehead to Halifax Ocean Races so if they were going to let go, you'd think they would have by now. There is a 37+ in the area that has tangs sticking up through the transom instead of the pair of U bolts. I haven't seen what he has inside backing them up though. Ken H. On 21 August 2013 20:55, j...@svpaws.net j...@svpaws.net wrote: That's the boat I remember reading about! John Sent from my iPad On Aug 21, 2013, at 7:24 PM, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com wrote: Its not Blue Pearl is it? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD -- When privacy matters. http://www.secure-my-email.com On Aug 21, 2013 6:44 PM, Rhhulit rhhu...@optonline.net wrote: Hi would you post this? Thanks! This list is very helpful. We are recent owners of a 1990 37+. I put some backstay on while motorsailing this weekend and managed to partially pull the ridiculously poorly engineered mount.I have some ideas on repair-grind off the bulge, big backing plate and a proper chain plate tang- but I was wondering what others have done. Thanks Richard H. Hulit, Jr. CC37+ Kindred Greenwich, CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List
Re: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue
Bruce, I have a similar setup, but with a smaller solar panel, and initially ran into similar troubles. It turned out to be helpful to install a solar charge regulator for each battery (house and starting); the output of each regulator is connected directly to the relevant battery - not through the off-1-2-both switch. When not running the engine (i.e. most of the time) I have only one or the other battery connected (i.e. 1 or 2 but not both). The solar panel output can be connected to the inputs of both regulators, but each regulator should go to only one battery. This has worked well for the last three years - both batteries stay fully charged as they are being charged separately all the time the boat is on its mooring. Eric Frank Cat's Paw CC 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 09:43:48 -0600 (MDT) From: BRUCE BOLTON bruce.bol...@shaw.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue Message-ID: 876707633.43418433.1377531828779.JavaMail.root@cds015 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 I just installed two 100 watt Arenco panels through an MPPT controller ... and it works very well, very happy with the output. I've got 320 amp hour AGM house battery bank and a 120 amp hour starting battery connected through a battery isolator switch (can keep them seperate or connect them into one big bank). Link 20 monitor function for solar panels has been switch on. The issue: I connected the controller output to the starting battery (because of the size of the terminals on that battery), keept the battery isolator switch in the connect everything together position and what happens is the house bank shows charging via the solar panels, but the starting always shows a discharge. I don't know why ... On a recent trip of a week without shore power the solar panels almost keept up with demand (fridge/freezer on all the time) maybe a minus 50 amps at the end of the trip on the house bank, while the starting battery showed a minus 500 amps at the end of the trip! I believe that this is simply a link monitor issue and that this is (obviously) not reality. Any Ideas on what can be done to get the link indicating correctly would be appreciated. Perhaps when the battery banks are not isolated the link then reads this as one bank only, and the starting one is just recording the amount of power pulled from the bank over time ... Thanks for any feedback! Bruce Bolton CC35III Apple Tree ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fall Rendezvous, Block Island
I'm looking forward to it. Every CC I've come across I've asked the owner if he was going to be there. Spreading the word! Andy Peregrine CC 40 Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 On Aug 26, 2013, at 12:52, Maturo, John john.mat...@yale.edu wrote: What is the news on the Fall Rendezvous. John Maturo Ashe, Baltic 39 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fall Rendezvous, Block Island
If it's anything like last year's event in Mystic, it should be a great time. See: http://www.cncrendezvous.myevent.com I only wish it were a bit closer so I could bring the Enterprise, but my wife and I will come visit on Saturday (staying in Mystic and already booked our high-speed ferry tix.) All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website On Aug 26, 2013, at 1:17 PM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com wrote: I'm looking forward to it. Every CC I've come across I've asked the owner if he was going to be there. Spreading the word! Andy Peregrine CC 40 Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 On Aug 26, 2013, at 12:52, Maturo, John john.mat...@yale.edu wrote: What is the news on the Fall Rendezvous. John Maturo Ashe, Baltic 39 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fall Rendezvous, Block Island
When Where What Who Why ? (How much and ...) JP -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 10:17 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Fall Rendezvous, Block Island I'm looking forward to it. Every CC I've come across I've asked the owner if he was going to be there. Spreading the word! Andy Peregrine CC 40 Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 On Aug 26, 2013, at 12:52, Maturo, John john.mat...@yale.edu wrote: What is the news on the Fall Rendezvous. John Maturo Ashe, Baltic 39 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue
Solar panel is not charging via the Link house bank shunt. Seeing that its link 20, you should have two shunt resistors, one for the house and one for starting bank. You should be very careful wiring stuff to battery terminals themselves. I know many folks have it that way, but you have permanent loads and permanent charging, dual battery monitor. You should really have high amperage buss bar for + and -. This high amperage buss bar is where controller terminals should go. Battery terminals should be free of miscellaneous connectors. Only heavy gauge lugs should be there to join batteries, and then one jumper to a properly sized fuse for your bank consumption. There should be no loads or chargers hooked to the battery before the fuse. Other side of the fuse goes to a high amperage buss bar. Negative side should only connect to a shunt resistor. There should be nothing connected the that side of the shunt resistor.Other side of shunt resistor should go to negative bus bar. Since you have link 20, that goes for both of your banks. Sounds like your isolator switch is bypassing the house shunt. Likely connecting to battery directly. I have link 10 (one shunt), I don't monitor starting battery AH. My starting bank is lead acid and has different charge topology from the house AGM deep cycle. I use the both position on the house main switch in emergencies only when engine won't start. AH used to start the engine like that do not show up on Link monitor. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of BRUCE BOLTON Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:44 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue I just installed two 100 watt Arenco panels through an MPPT controller ... and it works very well, very happy with the output. I've got 320 amp hour AGM house battery bank and a 120 amp hour starting battery connected through a battery isolator switch (can keep them seperate or connect them into one big bank). Link 20 monitor function for solar panels has been switch on. The issue: I connected the controller output to the starting battery (because of the size of the terminals on that battery), keept the battery isolator switch in the connect everything together position and what happens is the house bank shows charging via the solar panels, but the starting always shows a discharge. I don't know why ... On a recent trip of a week without shore power the solar panels almost keept up with demand (fridge/freezer on all the time) maybe a minus 50 amps at the end of the trip on the house bank, while the starting battery showed a minus 500 amps at the end of the trip! I believe that this is simply a link monitor issue and that this is (obviously) not reality. Any Ideas on what can be done to get the link indicating correctly would be appreciated. Perhaps when the battery banks are not isolated the link then reads this as one bank only, and the starting one is just recording the amount of power pulled from the bank over time ... Thanks for any feedback! Bruce Bolton CC35III Apple Tree ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fall Rendezvous, Block Island
http://www.cncrendezvous.myevent.com/ Hope you can make it. Andy Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 On Aug 26, 2013, at 13:17, J.P. ja...@jpiworldwide.com wrote: When Where What Who Why ? (How much and ...) JP -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 10:17 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Fall Rendezvous, Block Island I'm looking forward to it. Every CC I've come across I've asked the owner if he was going to be there. Spreading the word! Andy Peregrine CC 40 Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 On Aug 26, 2013, at 12:52, Maturo, John john.mat...@yale.edu wrote: What is the news on the Fall Rendezvous. John Maturo Ashe, Baltic 39 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape
I re-bedded my entire deck ('76 cc 38 MkII) in 2004, every fitting, ports,
hatches, everything but the deck/hull joint, with that butyl rubber. I like
it cause if you need to take anything off, it's easy. Yet it still provides
a great seal. My tracks have not leaked yet, 10k ocean miles and nearly 10
years later. I like those sealers as well, and I use them but not on deck.
In my experience they would pull the gelcoat right off if I need to remove
the fitting.
Petar Horvatic
1976 CC 38 Mk II
Newport, RI
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 9:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape
Yeah, right(sarcasm on).
James
Delaney
1976 CC 38 Mk II
Oriental, NC
- Original Message -
From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape
I hate to rain on a parade - well maybe not, but butyl tape was used to seal
our 1970's CC 's hull to deck joints. It's a pain in the arse!
There is a lot better stuff been invented since the '70's.
Nobody uses butyl tape except those guys that buy the stuff off that guy on
sailnet.
Get a grip people!
Sikaflex / 4200 / 5200 and lots of other sealers are waaay better than
butyl.
sam :-)
From: Bob Moriarty
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 5:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape
I keep a roll in the refrigerator.
On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 5:08 PM, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote:
All hale the great butyl tape!!
_
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
_
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 1 1/2 ID Exhaust hose
Francois, I replaces the exhaust system on my 1987 35mk3 a few years ago, and based on that here are my comments: 1. of course the mechanic is going to yell at you, because 1) he cannot be on record as going against what his manufacturer is publishing and perhaps 2) he wants you to employ *him* to do this job. 2.I think *part* of the current school of thought on going to 2 has to do with muffler availability. 2 inlet and 2 outlet is pretty normal and easy to purchase muffler size. 2 inlet and 1.5 outlet is not. For me I could only find it as a very pricey special order. And you don't mention if you are replacing the muffler. Mine (which was the same age as yours is now when I replaced it) was starting to rust out and needed replacement, in addition to the cracks in my exhaust hose. If you have the hoses out (one of the harder things to do in this job), you might strongly consider replacing your muffler. Unless yours is already non-metallic. 3. the problem of going under the fuel tank can be solved by going over the fuel tank. That's the route mine goes. Out of the top of the muffler, with a gentle curve to horizontal and over top of the fuel tank, then sloping down to the hull fitting. Yes, moving to 2 means perhaps going to a 2 hull fitting, but that's not soo bad. The old fitting is 23 years old. Why not replace it? And boring the hole out to 2 from 1.5 is easy with sanding drums and a few hours of time. I chucked a 1.5 sanding drum into my hand drill with 60 grit paper, and a few sheets of sandpaper and some time later, had a 2 hole. Easy peasy. -Keith M CC 35-3 Beyond the Sea. -Original Message- From: Jean-Francois J Rivard [mailto:jfriv...@us.ibm.com] Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 5:17 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; CnC-List Subject: Re: Stus-List 1 1/2 ID Exhaust hose Good afternoon gents, I'm the new kid on the block. I purchased Steven Thorne's 34+ about 6 weeks ago and my family an I are enjoying the boat tremendously. I've also been busy waxing and cleaning as well as fixing a bunch of little things that needed attention. My question is : Is it really such a bad idea to replace the original 1 1/2 ID exhaust hose with an identical hose? (And not going to 2 as per the current school of thought ) Prior to purchase, The surveyor noted hairline cracks at the loop before discharge with some evidence of very minor leaks. I finally got around to disconnecting it and wrestling it out of the boat. It appears to be original with and internal diameter of 1.5 inch and 12 feet in length. I checked with my mechanic to see if he had one on hand and he scolded me for even considering replacing it with another 1.5 inch diameter instead of the Prescribed 2 inches stating that I was killing the engine with excessive back pressure. The thing is: This boat is clearly designed for a 1.5 inch hose. *The stern discharge exhaust through hull is molded as an integral part of the hull and is 1.5 inch in diameter. ( I saw it during the survey while the boat was out of the water). *Also, there's no way a 2 inch diameter hose would fit between the bottom of the fuel tank and the hull where it runs from the muffler to the stern. To get a 2 inch hose through you'd have to lift the tank and squeeze it back in place while compressing the hose. * There are no hard bends or kinks, it's a straight run to the loop before the integrated hull discharge The engine runs fine, the boat makes 7 knots at 2,800 rpm's or so and get up to hull speed (about 7.5) when you give it full throttle for while so for all appearances, it's making all the power it's supposed to make. All this after 23 years of being killed by back pressure. I might consider reworking the exhaust situation this winter when she's on the hard for a bottom job but for now, there's no way I'm missing on precious weekends on the lake with the family for a very remote possibility of an issue with this. Am I taking such a risk? Thanks in advance, Francois Rivard 1990 CC 34+ Take Five Inactive hide details for cnc-list-request---08/22/2013 12:05:42 PM---Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-lcnc-list-request---08/22/2013 12:05:42 PM---Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 08/22/2013 12:05 PM Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 91, Issue 80 Sent by: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re:
Re: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue
I am far from the expert on battery charging, but... When I installed solar charging I went for a two-battery setup (with priority). The AGM batteries really like to be fully charged and, usually, we don't provide them with enough charging (unless you have shore power and charge them at the dock). The alternator does a great job up to about 80% of the battery capacity and after that you would have to run the motor for a long time to reach full. This is where a decent solar charging controller helps (it provides the float for days on end (when you are not sailing)). I would connect your solar charging to the AGM batteries (the house bank). I have a somewhat different setup with all batteries AGM, but I don't split them into house and start, but rather, into main and spare. So I start the motor and run the lights from the same battery (I don't have refrigeration, so I cannot say I have much of a house load). This way, the alternator charges the battery as much as it can do in the short periods of motoring, but the solar charger continues and completes the charging when the boat Is not in use. The solar controller fills the main battery first (90% preference) and when it is done, charges the spare battery. So far it works fine (both batteries full when I arrive at the boat). I cannot comment on long-term effects, as I have this set-up since the beginning of this season. But it works. my $0.02 (CAD) Marek in Ottawa___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery
Hi David,Sounds like you are learning the boat and fixing some problems. Are you on a mooring or in a marina slip?AGM batteries:I have two AGMs. I replaced one after 9 years of use/abuse. (Originally I used an auto charger that didn't do a very good job.) Added a charger to the boat after the first 7 years when the batteries were getting hard to charge. The charger is a ProSport three stage unit that conditions batteries. It charges at 14.7 volts initially to knock off sulfate on the plates, then drops to a more normal voltage to charge and ends w a trickel charge at something closer to 13vDC. Using this better charger, the batteries charge to a higher voltage and tend to hold a charge longer. Months over the winter. There are newer products that may be better? But it did a really neat job and I got two more years out one battery and the 2nd one is just showing signs it needs to be replaced after 11 years. I now charge the batteries from shorepower about once a month. The rest of the time, the engine does a fine job if I remember to place the selector to "ALL" .I monitor the batteries w a digital Volt meter that you stick in a 12 socket. Works great and you can buy them at any good auto supply.You may want to research getting an ammeter to chase down what is draining your batteries?Before you leave your boat, definitely want to valve off the propane tank, and shutoff any alarms when no-one is there to hear them. ChuckResolute1990 CC 34RAtlantic City, NJFrom: "David Knecht" davidakne...@gmail.comTo: "CnC CnC discussion list" CnC-List@cnc-list.comSent: Monday, August 26, 2013 10:04:36 AMSubject: Stus-List Drained AGM batteryI am beginning to feel that I have bad karma with my new boat. First the good news: based on all the advice I received, the Universal starting issue seems definitely fixed- since I cleaned the ground connection, it has started smoothly every time. The only strange thing is that all the directions I have read say that you should continue to push the glow plug button while pushing the start button. However, on mine, the engine will not turn over unless I release the glow plug button. Also, the GPS restarts each time I start the engine, which may mean there is still some electrical issue, but neither is a serious problem at this point. Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the bottom and prop as best I could. The shaft and prop were completely crusted with barnacles, so clearly my Pettit zinc coat did not do its job. I may try Velox next spring based on the advice of a local old timer.So yesterday I go went to the boat and found that my #1 battery is completely dead. This is the battery that is wired for the auto-bilge pump switch and propane fume alarm (that is all I know of). The batteries are 2 month old Power-tech AGM group 27's. I could not get much of any charge after a day of running the engine for a few hours totals.Questions:1. do new batteries fail at some rate?2. Will an AGM charge from the alternator if fully discharged? If so, roughly how long would it take? I brought it home and tried to use my smart charger and that is not charging it at all (the charging light does not come on).Perhaps related- I twice was on the boat briefly during the week and found the Xintex propane fume alarm going. Both times I checked the propane system and the tank shutoff was closed and all switches were off. So I don't believe there were really propane fumes in the cabin. So could the sensor have failed? Could the alarm going for many many hours drain the battery (I don't think the bilge pump is doing it). David KnechtAries1990 CC 34+New London, CT ___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue
From your description I believe you have both positive and negative leads from your solar controller attached to your starting battery. Thus the shunt from your Link20 on the starting battery side sees energy 'leaving' the starting side although this is actually net new energy from the solar array. It seems to the Link20 the starting side is losing Ahs which happen to be moving over to the house side. Interesting that the (-)500AH from the starting side ( aside for actual starting ) represents the AH your solar array contributed over the week. If the negative is not on the battery side of the shunt this theory doesn't hold up ... Peter's discussion below is how things should be set up ... ed -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar Horvatic Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 1:32 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue Solar panel is not charging via the Link house bank shunt. Seeing that its link 20, you should have two shunt resistors, one for the house and one for starting bank. You should be very careful wiring stuff to battery terminals themselves. I know many folks have it that way, but you have permanent loads and permanent charging, dual battery monitor. You should really have high amperage buss bar for + and -. This high amperage buss bar is where controller terminals should go. Battery terminals should be free of miscellaneous connectors. Only heavy gauge lugs should be there to join batteries, and then one jumper to a properly sized fuse for your bank consumption. There should be no loads or chargers hooked to the battery before the fuse. Other side of the fuse goes to a high amperage buss bar. Negative side should only connect to a shunt resistor. There should be nothing connected the that side of the shunt resistor.Other side of shunt resistor should go to negative bus bar. Since you have link 20, that goes for both of your banks. Sounds like your isolator switch is bypassing the house shunt. Likely connecting to battery directly. I have link 10 (one shunt), I don't monitor starting battery AH. My starting bank is lead acid and has different charge topology from the house AGM deep cycle. I use the both position on the house main switch in emergencies only when engine won't start. AH used to start the engine like that do not show up on Link monitor. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of BRUCE BOLTON Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:44 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue I just installed two 100 watt Arenco panels through an MPPT controller ... and it works very well, very happy with the output. I've got 320 amp hour AGM house battery bank and a 120 amp hour starting battery connected through a battery isolator switch (can keep them seperate or connect them into one big bank). Link 20 monitor function for solar panels has been switch on. The issue: I connected the controller output to the starting battery (because of the size of the terminals on that battery), keept the battery isolator switch in the connect everything together position and what happens is the house bank shows charging via the solar panels, but the starting always shows a discharge. I don't know why ... On a recent trip of a week without shore power the solar panels almost keept up with demand (fridge/freezer on all the time) maybe a minus 50 amps at the end of the trip on the house bank, while the starting battery showed a minus 500 amps at the end of the trip! I believe that this is simply a link monitor issue and that this is (obviously) not reality. Any Ideas on what can be done to get the link indicating correctly would be appreciated. Perhaps when the battery banks are not isolated the link then reads this as one bank only, and the starting one is just recording the amount of power pulled from the bank over time ... Thanks for any feedback! Bruce Bolton CC35III Apple Tree ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue
* Nothing * absolutely *nothing*, can be connected on the battery side of the shunt or it won't work right. Joe Della Barba Coquina -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Prime Interest Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 2:46 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue From your description I believe you have both positive and negative leads from your solar controller attached to your starting battery. Thus the shunt from your Link20 on the starting battery side sees energy 'leaving' the starting side although this is actually net new energy from the solar array. It seems to the Link20 the starting side is losing Ahs which happen to be moving over to the house side. Interesting that the (-)500AH from the starting side ( aside for actual starting ) represents the AH your solar array contributed over the week. If the negative is not on the battery side of the shunt this theory doesn't hold up ... Peter's discussion below is how things should be set up ... ed -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar Horvatic Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 1:32 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue Solar panel is not charging via the Link house bank shunt. Seeing that its link 20, you should have two shunt resistors, one for the house and one for starting bank. You should be very careful wiring stuff to battery terminals themselves. I know many folks have it that way, but you have permanent loads and permanent charging, dual battery monitor. You should really have high amperage buss bar for + and -. This high amperage buss bar is where controller terminals should go. Battery terminals should be free of miscellaneous connectors. Only heavy gauge lugs should be there to join batteries, and then one jumper to a properly sized fuse for your bank consumption. There should be no loads or chargers hooked to the battery before the fuse. Other side of the fuse goes to a high amperage buss bar. Negative side should only connect to a shunt resistor. There should be nothing connected the that side of the shunt resistor.Other side of shunt resistor should go to negative bus bar. Since you have link 20, that goes for both of your banks. Sounds like your isolator switch is bypassing the house shunt. Likely connecting to battery directly. I have link 10 (one shunt), I don't monitor starting battery AH. My starting bank is lead acid and has different charge topology from the house AGM deep cycle. I use the both position on the house main switch in emergencies only when engine won't start. AH used to start the engine like that do not show up on Link monitor. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of BRUCE BOLTON Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:44 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue I just installed two 100 watt Arenco panels through an MPPT controller ... and it works very well, very happy with the output. I've got 320 amp hour AGM house battery bank and a 120 amp hour starting battery connected through a battery isolator switch (can keep them seperate or connect them into one big bank). Link 20 monitor function for solar panels has been switch on. The issue: I connected the controller output to the starting battery (because of the size of the terminals on that battery), keept the battery isolator switch in the connect everything together position and what happens is the house bank shows charging via the solar panels, but the starting always shows a discharge. I don't know why ... On a recent trip of a week without shore power the solar panels almost keept up with demand (fridge/freezer on all the time) maybe a minus 50 amps at the end of the trip on the house bank, while the starting battery showed a minus 500 amps at the end of the trip! I believe that this is simply a link monitor issue and that this is (obviously) not reality. Any Ideas on what can be done to get the link indicating correctly would be appreciated. Perhaps when the battery banks are not isolated the link then reads this as one bank only, and the starting one is just recording the amount of power pulled from the bank over time ... Thanks for any feedback! Bruce Bolton CC35III Apple Tree ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC
Re: Stus-List recaulking toerails
I¹m not an expert in this at all, but when I first thought of doing it on my 24¹, and using something out of a tube, I was told by many to use marine grade butyl tape, nothing else. Ed From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com I need to recaulk the toerails on my 32' CC. My thought is to remove the bolts, clean out all the old material between the underside of the deck and the rubrail and between the bottom of the toerail and the top of the deck. I would use Skiaflex to reseal these areas and Buytul tape for the bolt holes. Any thoughts, experiences? Jesse A. Rieber Witch of the Westmoreland 32' CC, Cotuit, Cape Cod, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Link montor solar panel our why our list is so valuable thanks
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for your input. I know it has been said before, but just needed to add in my voice to say how terriffic it is to be able to access the collective knowledge base, solving problems and being part of the CC community. I mostly lurk (yikes over six years now) and need to contribute more. I'm moving into retirement this Friday and will not only be able to sail more, but will look also look forward to wide variety of CC topics discussed everyday. All the best, Bruce Bolton CC35III Apple Tree ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Link montor solar panel our why our list is so valuable thanks
Happy retirement! Start looking for a job now. Stave off boredom. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-08-26, at 17:11, BRUCE BOLTON bruce.bol...@shaw.ca wrote: Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for your input. I know it has been said before, but just needed to add in my voice to say how terriffic it is to be able to access the collective knowledge base, solving problems and being part of the CC community. I mostly lurk (yikes over six years now) and need to contribute more. I'm moving into retirement this Friday and will not only be able to sail more, but will look also look forward to wide variety of CC topics discussed everyday. All the best, Bruce Bolton CC35III Apple Tree ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??)
Ken, Thanks for the update. I will likely have a few more questions, so I'm sorry to keep pestering. That said, who among us ever tires of talking about our boats?? As I am looking for 37+ information, how should I search; did they have any other designations? What years? Will they be listed as a CC 40, 39, etc.? Also, how well do they track and/or handle heavy seas/wind/weather? Thanks again, Richard From: Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com To: Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 7:30 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??) Hello Richard, Our 37+ carries 80 US gallons of water, split over 3 water tanks as follows: Tank Capacity, Water: 299 litres (66 Imp Gal. - 79 US Gal) Bow Tank: 87 litres (19 Imp Gal. - 23 US Gal) Port Tank: 106 litres (23.3 Imp Gal. - 28 US Gal) Starboard Tank: 106 litres (23.3 Imp Gal. - 28 US Gal) This was the factory set up in 1990. I assume this is what all the 37+'s really have except a few that never had holding tanks that carry 100 US Gallons of water. Our's started life with four water tanks and no holding tank as it was originally located in Halifax, NS, where overboard discharge used to be permitted. We find that enough for two couples for about a week if we take a bit of care. We can usually go for a swim or two every day where we are (typically the Bras d'Or Lake system) so we may shower only every 2nd day. I prefer the traveller on the bridgedeck in the cockpit, but that's me. I like to trim and tweak sails frequently so I find it's location there ideal. There will have to be a gap between a bimini and the dodger because of this traveller location. Ken H. On 25 August 2013 23:56, Richard Walter sailind...@yahoo.com wrote: Ken, Thanks for the reply and the photos. It DOES look like a sweet ride. I have a few questions about the design: How id the tankage? I see similar boats on Yachtworld carry 60 gallons of water. Is that enough for weeklong-or-more cruising? Showering? How do you like the mainsheet/traveler in the cockpit? Is it in your face? How would you rig a bimini? Thanks, Richard From: Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 9:27 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??) Of course I'm with Josh and Edd on this. I posted these photos back in July but I'll throw then out again. The aft cabin on a 37+ it looks like this: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-012Obd94ATA/T00NoOqd4PI/BDo/yzYMUFphrBo/w600-h434-no/Nina14.jpg The aft bed is a queen size. My wife is quite fond of that cabin... The rest of the interior ain't too shabby either: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SGUTt8WmoBs/TMzYnKHI4HI/Jkg/_m8Hr53wRsk/w958-h719-no/IMG_1779.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aahIPlK4ALA/S3yIdzFKWOI/Jkg/wKyCXdqfjDU/w958-h660-no/40b3p0203.jpg Anne I go out with just the two of us frequently, even on days when we need two reefs in the main and the Genoa furled down to less than 100% Of course the boat is also very comfortable with two couples for week long cruises, each couple having the privacy of their own cabin. I think the 34+ is very similar, with the berth in the aft cabin arranged a bit differently. Ken H. On 25 August 2013 20:01, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net wrote: That reminds me of my Hunter 28.5. Waves would occasionally slap against the transom, getting trapped and slapping the heck against the fiberglass. It can make for an interesting night. Jake Jake Brodersen CC 35 Mk-III Midnight Mistress Hampton VA -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 11:36 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??) Just keep in mind that aft cabins can be noisy at anchor with waves slapping the underside of the transom skirt. Everything is a compromise John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??)
Richard, There are a few of us 37+ owners on the list and we're all more than happy to answer any questions we can. You could search for 37+, 37XL, 37/40+, 37/40XL, etc. I think production started in 1989 and ran to 1991 (or 1992). I have a 1990. As for heavy weather, all I can say about the 37+ is PHENOMENAL. I know you're not looking to race, but we were in one last year, where it was 25-30 out of the east with major rollers coming in from the Sound. Everyone else was reducing sail and bearing off. Not us. She will go through chop and heavy air like none other. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website On Aug 26, 2013, at 4:16 PM, Richard Walter sailind...@yahoo.com wrote: Ken, Thanks for the update. I will likely have a few more questions, so I'm sorry to keep pestering. That said, who among us ever tires of talking about our boats?? As I am looking for 37+ information, how should I search; did they have any other designations? What years? Will they be listed as a CC 40, 39, etc.? Also, how well do they track and/or handle heavy seas/wind/weather? Thanks again, Richard From: Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com To: Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 7:30 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??) Hello Richard, Our 37+ carries 80 US gallons of water, split over 3 water tanks as follows: Tank Capacity, Water: 299 litres (66 Imp Gal. - 79 US Gal) Bow Tank: 87 litres (19 Imp Gal. - 23 US Gal) Port Tank: 106 litres (23.3 Imp Gal. - 28 US Gal) Starboard Tank: 106 litres (23.3 Imp Gal. - 28 US Gal) This was the factory set up in 1990. I assume this is what all the 37+'s really have except a few that never had holding tanks that carry 100 US Gallons of water. Our's started life with four water tanks and no holding tank as it was originally located in Halifax, NS, where overboard discharge used to be permitted. We find that enough for two couples for about a week if we take a bit of care. We can usually go for a swim or two every day where we are (typically the Bras d'Or Lake system) so we may shower only every 2nd day. I prefer the traveller on the bridgedeck in the cockpit, but that's me. I like to trim and tweak sails frequently so I find it's location there ideal. There will have to be a gap between a bimini and the dodger because of this traveller location. Ken H. On 25 August 2013 23:56, Richard Walter sailind...@yahoo.com wrote: Ken, Thanks for the reply and the photos. It DOES look like a sweet ride. I have a few questions about the design: How id the tankage? I see similar boats on Yachtworld carry 60 gallons of water. Is that enough for weeklong-or-more cruising? Showering? How do you like the mainsheet/traveler in the cockpit? Is it in your face? How would you rig a bimini? Thanks, Richard From: Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 9:27 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??) Of course I'm with Josh and Edd on this. I posted these photos back in July but I'll throw then out again. The aft cabin on a 37+ it looks like this: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-012Obd94ATA/T00NoOqd4PI/BDo/yzYMUFphrBo/w600-h434-no/Nina14.jpg The aft bed is a queen size. My wife is quite fond of that cabin... The rest of the interior ain't too shabby either: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SGUTt8WmoBs/TMzYnKHI4HI/Jkg/_m8Hr53wRsk/w958-h719-no/IMG_1779.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aahIPlK4ALA/S3yIdzFKWOI/Jkg/wKyCXdqfjDU/w958-h660-no/40b3p0203.jpg Anne I go out with just the two of us frequently, even on days when we need two reefs in the main and the Genoa furled down to less than 100% Of course the boat is also very comfortable with two couples for week long cruises, each couple having the privacy of their own cabin. I think the 34+ is very similar, with the berth in the aft cabin arranged a bit differently. Ken H. On 25 August 2013 20:01, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net wrote: That reminds me of my Hunter 28.5. Waves would occasionally slap against the transom, getting trapped and slapping the heck against the fiberglass. It can make for an interesting night. Jake Jake Brodersen CC 35 Mk-III Midnight Mistress Hampton VA -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 11:36 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??) Just keep in mind that aft cabins can be noisy at anchor
Re: Stus-List Fall Rendezvous, Block Island
I just called up the Boat Basin to reserve a slip for Friday / Saturday - they are taking reservations. They asked if the CC Rendezvous was this year or next year, so I hope I'm not a year out... Has a discount been agreed with them? Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Mon, Aug 26, 2013 at 1:58 PM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.comwrote: http://www.cncrendezvous.myevent.com/ Hope you can make it. Andy Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??)
Hi Richard, On yachtworld.com go to advanced search. In Mfg/Model enter CC In Length: From: enter 37 and in To: enter 40 In Year: From: enter 1988 and in To: enter 1994 Don't bother with any other boxes. That will find every 37+ (37/40+) and every 37XL (37/40XL) and every 37R (37/40R) currently listed through the Yachtworld database. This will also find the 1993 1994 CC 40 series which is exactly the same boat (except for a tiny difference in cockpit moulding and head colour, and different electrical panels). There are 6 of the 37+ (or XL variant) and 7 of the 37R's listed there now. Beware of the 37R's. They are generally much less expensive as they are essentially obsolete racers that have been run very hard over the years with rather more spartan interiors than the 37+ series. There are exceptions to this though, such as Cape Crusader and Lager which while not having the 37+ interior are never the less very well fitted out. There is an R for sale in Hamilton Ontario, Canada (My Shadow) which used to be named Wave Train. The listing suggests it is an XL but it is definitely an R. It was built as a custom one off with all sorts of factory modifications to make the boat stronger and really stiff, custom bulb keel too. Have fun looking at all the photos. Ken H. On 26 August 2013 17:23, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Richard, There are a few of us 37+ owners on the list and we're all more than happy to answer any questions we can. You could search for 37+, 37XL, 37/40+, 37/40XL, etc. I think production started in 1989 and ran to 1991 (or 1992). I have a 1990. As for heavy weather, all I can say about the 37+ is PHENOMENAL. I know you're not looking to race, but we were in one last year, where it was 25-30 out of the east with major rollers coming in from the Sound. Everyone else was reducing sail and bearing off. Not us. She will go through chop and heavy air like none other. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Websitehttp://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ On Aug 26, 2013, at 4:16 PM, Richard Walter sailind...@yahoo.com wrote: Ken, Thanks for the update. I will likely have a few more questions, so I'm sorry to keep pestering. That said, who among us ever tires of talking about our boats?? As I am looking for 37+ information, how should I search; did they have any other designations? What years? Will they be listed as a CC 40, 39, etc.? Also, how well do they track and/or handle heavy seas/wind/weather? Thanks again, Richard -- *From:* Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com *To:* *Cc:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Monday, August 26, 2013 7:30 AM *Subject:* Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??) Hello Richard, Our 37+ carries 80 US gallons of water, split over 3 water tanks as follows: Tank Capacity, Water: 299 litres (66 Imp Gal. - 79 US Gal) Bow Tank: 87 litres (19 Imp Gal. - 23 US Gal) Port Tank: 106 litres (23.3 Imp Gal. - 28 US Gal) Starboard Tank: 106 litres (23.3 Imp Gal. - 28 US Gal) This was the factory set up in 1990. I assume this is what all the 37+'s really have except a few that never had holding tanks that carry 100 US Gallons of water. Our's started life with four water tanks and no holding tank as it was originally located in Halifax, NS, where overboard discharge used to be permitted. We find that enough for two couples for about a week if we take a bit of care. We can usually go for a swim or two every day where we are (typically the Bras d'Or Lake system) so we may shower only every 2nd day. I prefer the traveller on the bridgedeck in the cockpit, but that's me. I like to trim and tweak sails frequently so I find it's location there ideal. There will have to be a gap between a bimini and the dodger because of this traveller location. Ken H. On 25 August 2013 23:56, Richard Walter sailind...@yahoo.com wrote: Ken, Thanks for the reply and the photos. It DOES look like a sweet ride. I have a few questions about the design: How id the tankage? I see similar boats on Yachtworld carry 60 gallons of water. Is that enough for weeklong-or-more cruising? Showering? How do you like the mainsheet/traveler in the cockpit? Is it in your face? How would you rig a bimini? Thanks, Richard -- *From:* Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com *To:* cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Sunday, August 25, 2013 9:27 PM *Subject:* Re: Stus-List How to sleep on a boat? (Was: Moving from a CC??) Of course I'm with Josh and Edd on this. I posted these photos back in July but I'll throw then out again. The aft cabin on a 37+ it looks like this: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-012Obd94ATA/T00NoOqd4PI/BDo/yzYMUFphrBo/w600-h434-no/Nina14.jpg The aft bed is a queen size. My wife is
Re: Stus-List Link montor solar panel our why our list is so valuable thanks
Or start cruising full time. Quite a few cruisers live off less than well equipped 35 footer that can actually sail. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 4:16 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Link montor solar panel our why our list is so valuable thanks Happy retirement! Start looking for a job now. Stave off boredom. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-08-26, at 17:11, BRUCE BOLTON bruce.bol...@shaw.ca wrote: Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for your input. I know it has been said before, but just needed to add in my voice to say how terriffic it is to be able to access the collective knowledge base, solving problems and being part of the CC community. I mostly lurk (yikes over six years now) and need to contribute more. I'm moving into retirement this Friday and will not only be able to sail more, but will look also look forward to wide variety of CC topics discussed everyday. All the best, Bruce Bolton CC35III Apple Tree ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List recaulking toerails
Caulking is an ok and very temporary repair but only if you want to do the job every 5 months. I removed Wild Rover's toe rails and re-bed with 1/8 butyl tape 5 years ago and have had no problems. I would use 1/16 if I did it again but at least I know I can do it again as I did not use and marine adhesive. The black toe rail expands and contracts a lot and at a different ratio than the fibreglass so I figured the highly flexible butyl would be the best choice. I'm glad I did it. As the years go on I know I'll need to torque the bolts a bit and eventually re-do but that's boat ownership. Maintenance never stops. Brent D s/v Wild Rover Lake Winnipeg CC 27-5 Sent from my iPhone On 2013-08-26, at 2:25 PM, Ed Dooley edoo...@madriver.com wrote: I’m not an expert in this at all, but when I first thought of doing it on my 24’, and using something out of a tube, I was told by many to use marine grade butyl tape, nothing else. Ed From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com I need to recaulk the toerails on my 32' CC. My thought is to remove the bolts, clean out all the old material between the underside of the deck and the rubrail and between the bottom of the toerail and the top of the deck. I would use Skiaflex to reseal these areas and Buytul tape for the bolt holes. Any thoughts, experiences? Jesse A. Rieber Witch of the Westmoreland 32' CC, Cotuit, Cape Cod, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Rendezvous on Block Island
Greetings; I see some traffic on the list with questions about the Rendezvous. In case anyone missed it, here is a link to the sign up: http://www.cncrendezvous.myevent.com/ As of now I believe we have at least 15 boats attending. What we really need now is for anyone who is planning on attending to please sign up so we can give the Block Island Historical Society a head count for the Museum tour and the Rob Ball talk. They have a limit to how many can go with each volunteer and a head count will help them schedule. I will be posting more updates in the next few days. If anyone has any questions or needs some local information please don't hesitate to contact me directly by phone or email. Regards, Rob Gallagher trys...@gmail.com 860-389-6900 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery
Hi David, 1. - yes, a new battery can fail and a two month old battery is still on warranty. Give it back for a load test / replacement. 2. - The AGM will charge from an alternator if discharged but may not charge from a smart regulator as the have a dumb battery validation check. If you want to use a smart charge on a really flat battery then you need to jump start the process with a dumb charger or another battery. - you should see life in the battery after a half hour on the alternator but a few hours for a good bulk charge You may have a fried diode in the alternator which can deplete a battery when the engine is not running (and not isolated from the battery) and give insufficient charge voltage. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 07:04 AM 26/08/2013, you wrote: I am beginning to feel that I have bad karma with my new boat. First the good news: based on all the advice I received, the Universal starting issue seems definitely fixed- since I cleaned the ground connection, it has started smoothly every time. The only strange thing is that all the directions I have read say that you should continue to push the glow plug button while pushing the start button. However, on mine, the engine will not turn over unless I release the glow plug button. Also, the GPS restarts each time I start the engine, which may mean there is still some electrical issue, but neither is a serious problem at this point. Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the bottom and prop as best I could. The shaft and prop were completely crusted with barnacles, so clearly my Pettit zinc coat did not do its job. I may try Velox next spring based on the advice of a local old timer. So yesterday I go went to the boat and found that my #1 battery is completely dead. This is the battery that is wired for the auto-bilge pump switch and propane fume alarm (that is all I know of). The batteries are 2 month old Power-tech AGM group 27's. I could not get much of any charge after a day of running the engine for a few hours totals. Questions: 1. do new batteries fail at some rate? 2. Will an AGM charge from the alternator if fully discharged? If so, roughly how long would it take? I brought it home and tried to use my smart charger and that is not charging it at all (the charging light does not come on). Perhaps related- I twice was on the boat briefly during the week and found the Xintex propane fume alarm going. Both times I checked the propane system and the tank shutoff was closed and all switches were off. So I don't believe there were really propane fumes in the cabin. So could the sensor have failed? Could the alarm going for many many hours drain the battery (I don't think the bilge pump is doing it). David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT [] ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
