Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: self-cleaning shaft

[Knowles Rich]

Dud the phone work?  Heh heh. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-09-03, at 23:00, "Jake Brodersen"  wrote:

Dave,
 
I often find that the waters of the Patuxent River are pretty clear.  One of my 
crew dropped his phone overboard a couple years ago.  I was able to see it and 
pick it up during my morning cleaning routine.  The visibility in the south end 
of the bay is usually poor, although this summer it has been much better than 
usual.  I can actually see my fins from time to time…and they’re bright yellow.
 
The crabs down here have not been so good either.  I hear a lot of complaints 
from the watermen.  It’s a tough way to make a living.
 
Jake
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 9:32 PM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft
 
Sounds familiar. I bought a regulator, 50' of hose and 80 cubic foot aluminum 
tank. Works well.
 
Jake, the water clarity observation was interesting. My experience is that the 
upper sections of the Bay are less clear. I have noticed that this year the 
waters in our area are much, much more visible than in years past. Good for 
cleaning but it's been a terrible year for crabs...
 
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
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Re: Stus-List New (replacement) sails

[Michael Cotton]

 I race a Hunter 23 in Colorado. Last year I bought a main from North Direct. 
The price was very competitive with all the discount sailmakers(& beat some). 
The sail is phenomenal. This year I bought a new headsail. Again very 
competitive prices. On the first race with my brand new sail I get T'boned. My 
fault. The boat that hit me was in a collision a few weeks earlier (a steering 
cable broke) and had a jagged bow pulpit. The bow pulpit sliced right through 
my brand new sail. I went over to investigate my sliced up sail and found both 
schrouds severed.  I got every spare halyard tied off on that side & saved the 
mast. OK Point of the story. I print up an overnight USPS shipping label to 
North in Middletown RI, deliver it to the PO and North has it 11AM Friday.  The 
following Tuesday They call me up and ask "how do I want it shipped back? I say 
USPS overnight. That's how they shipped it back. In time for my Wed night race. 
They did not repair the torn
 panels. They replaced all the damaged panels. My cost was ZERO, except for my 
cost shipping it to them. This is exceptional service after the sale.

Michael Cotton




>
> From: Neil Gallagher 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 9:59 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List New (replacement) sails
> 
>
>
>I bought a Tasker cruising genoa this spring, 145%,  7-oz dacron, with foam 
>luff, sunbrella leech/foot; with shipping total was $2200
>
>For a cruising sail it's decent quality,  the finishing work is
pretty good, my only issue the foot was cut a bit higher than I'd
like, but it was half the price of a local loft's dacron equivalent. 
>
>Neil Gallagher
>Weatherly, 35-1
>Glen Cove, NY
>
>
>On 9/3/2013 11:27 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:
>
>Marek,
>> 
>>I went through this last year.  I ended up at a local sail maker just for 
>>convenience of service.  They came to the boat to measure and to install for 
>>the first time.
>> 
>>I know a lot of people are really happy with Rolly Tasker from my research.  
>>the only negatives i found were people who didn't actually have their sails.  
>>Those that did were generally happy through all the threads I read. ...And 
>>you could probably save about 30%  through them.
>> 
>>I have no experience with them other than getting a quote and I have no 
>>connection to them.
>> 
>>Keep in mind, it is boat show season and most lofts are offering discounts of 
>>about 15%.  Just call and say you met them at the show.  Newport is the 
>>weekend of the 14th and Annapolis is in October.  Just check the website and 
>>see if one of the lofts you are interested in is at the show...
>> 
>>Good luck!
>> 
>>Danny
>>
>>
>>-- Original Message --
>>From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
>>To: 
>>Subject: Stus-List  New (replacement) sails
>>Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 10:25:49 -0400
>>
>>
>>Hi,
>> 
>>The decision has been made - we are getting new sails. The ones we have are 
>>about 20 years old and even my admiral can see that they are quite blown 
>>(stretched). Now the questions start: what kind and where to buy.
>> 
>>We are in Ottawa, so there is no local sail loft. Doyle Sail can accept local 
>>orders, but I don't expect that they would come to the boat to do the 
>>measurements. This opens things up a bit, because suddenly there is no 
>>difference between anyone local and buying the sails on-line (or is there?).
>> 
>>Regarding where, I was thinking about Rolly Tasker, National Sails Supply, FX 
>>Sails (The Sails Store) and a few more. Do you have any recommendations (or 
>>horror stories)?
>> 
>>Regarding what:
>> - cruising sails (we don't race)
>> - fairly light (I try not to overpower; we reef early or don't sail if it is 
>>really blowing (I don't think we sailed over 25 kt) and we need good sails 
>>for those days when it is hardly blowing at all). Is 6.5-7 oz Dacron good? 
>>too much, too little?
>> - I would like to get 2nd reef on the main - any comments (worth it, not 
>>really)?
>> - I am thinking about the 135% genoa; however, I find that what I have is a 
>>bit small ( I would have to check if it is really a 135% or is it smaller). I 
>>would not go to 150-155%; I don't think I would ever be able to trim it 
>>correctly and it would be too much to handle. But what about 140%? I could 
>>easily handle a sail with the foot a 1 ft longer.
>> - some vendors offer a transparent window in the sail; others don't.  Any 
>>thoughts about that?
>> 
>>Any other suggestions, ideas, things to think of?
>> 
>>thanks
>> 
>>Marek
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: self-cleaning shaft

[Jake Brodersen]

Dave,

 

I often find that the waters of the Patuxent River are pretty clear.  One of
my crew dropped his phone overboard a couple years ago.  I was able to see
it and pick it up during my morning cleaning routine.  The visibility in the
south end of the bay is usually poor, although this summer it has been much
better than usual.  I can actually see my fins from time to time.and they're
bright yellow.

 

The crabs down here have not been so good either.  I hear a lot of
complaints from the watermen.  It's a tough way to make a living.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Godwin
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 9:32 PM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

 

Sounds familiar. I bought a regulator, 50' of hose and 80 cubic foot
aluminum tank. Works well.

 

Jake, the water clarity observation was interesting. My experience is that
the upper sections of the Bay are less clear. I have noticed that this year
the waters in our area are much, much more visible than in years past. Good
for cleaning but it's been a terrible year for crabs...

 

Dave

1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

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Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

[Brent Driedger]

One way to look at it, an open 40 would be anything but a comfortable ride. 
Flat bottom trough landings in one of those must knock your teeth out. 

Brent. 

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-09-03, at 5:42 PM, "J.P."  wrote:

> Fer Sure
> 
> JP
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Jack Brennan [mailto:jackbren...@bellsouth.net] 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 3:39 PM
> To: ja...@jpiworldwide.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic
> 
> Don't forget Webb Chiles going around the world in a Drascombe Lugger, a
> small open boat.
> 
> Jack Brennan
> Former C&C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: J.P.
> Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 6:15 PM
> To: 'Colin Kilgour' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic
> 
> Yeah, and they are better sailors than a novice or first timer...
> 
> However, my very first boat was a copy of Tinkerbelle (Called Tinkerbelle
> 2), the 13' sloop sailed by Robert Manry. It's not a sea kindly boat, not in
> any sense, but a proper mariner could probably make anything "useable" and
> possible to sail across any stretch of water...as Manry proved... C&C or
> not... it may be EASIER to do in a better boat, but I think a good sailor
> makes the boat more often than the boat makes a good sailor...
> 
> JP
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Colin Kilgour [mailto:charliekilo...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 3:07 PM
> To: ja...@jpiworldwide.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic
> 
> The Pardeys' boat is much more seakindly than a C&C.  It's not just about
> size.
> 
> Cheers
> Colin
> 
> 
> On 9/3/13, J.P.  wrote:
>> And what about Lynn and Larry Pardey? J
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> JP
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
>> Indigo
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 2:33 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the 
>> Atlantic
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Lots of very valid points - but as far as size, storage space is 
>> concerned, I am reminded that Sir Robin Knox Johnston sailed non stop 
>> round the world
>> -
>> taking 10 months - in a 32 ft ketch. Clearly the number of crew will 
>> determine the amount of food, gear, water etc needed.  Keep the crew 
>> size down, and I am sure a 35Mk1 will cope easily with a crossing of 
>> the pond
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Jonathan
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  _
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
>> Della Barba, Joe
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 1:59 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the 
>> Atlantic
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Reasons and methods to go across:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 1.   Delivery: you need the boat on the other side of the ocean. Add a
>> liferaft and EPIRB and go. Fix anything that looks defective. This is 
>> what a paid crew would do. Pick time and route to avoid "perfect 
>> storms". The boat will remain on the other side and not used as a 
>> trans-ocean commuter. Avoid extensive mods by picking a good time of 
>> year to go.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 2.   Stunt: You want to prove that YOUR boat can make it across. We
> all
>> know the bigger C&Cs can do this, but who will be the first 27 or SR21 
>> across? I know someone who crossed the pond in a Cal 20 along these lines.
>> Pay up the life insurance or be really good with weather routing.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 3.   Conversion to a passagemaker: You want your boat to be equipped
>> for
>> ocean crossings as a routine trip. This will cost some $$$ to do right 
>> and most of the smaller C&Cs will have near-unfixable handicaps 
>> compared to boats made for this. To take my own 35 as an example, the 
>> boat surely can sail across the ocean as easily - or not - as she has 
>> made Bermuda. What will get to you is lack of fuel, lack of water, 
>> lack of dry storage, lack of storage that isn't under a bunk, wet 
>> ride, and quick motion. Like most shallow-bilged production fin keel 
>> boats, my bilge is shallow enough that water is all over the place in 
>> rough seas, not trapped down in a deep bilge sump. This can be quite 
>> annoying. Steering in big seas at speed is HARD. It is really fun to 
>> hit 15 knots, but it is also HARD work. Might be a lot for a small 
>> crew. I could buy a Landfall 38 easier than I could make my boat a 
>> Landfall equivalent and that isn't even straying outside the C&C family.
>> I'd
>> rather be in something like a Pacific Seacraft 38 if it were just two 
>> or three of us.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Joe Della Barba
>> 
>> Coquina
>> 
>> C&C 35 MK I
> 
> --
> Sent from my mobile device
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Dave Godwin]

Sounds familiar. I bought a regulator, 50' of hose and 80 cubic foot aluminum 
tank. Works well.

Jake, the water clarity observation was interesting. My experience is that the 
upper sections of the Bay are less clear. I have noticed that this year the 
waters in our area are much, much more visible than in years past. Good for 
cleaning but it's been a terrible year for crabs...

Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Sep 3, 2013, at 9:14 PM, Dennis C. wrote:

> Same here.  My buddy, who is a salvage diver, recommended I pick up a 
> Conshelf XIV off eBay.  I bought a Brownie's 3rd lung 50 foot hose and a 2 
> piece wet suit.  All told, around $300.  I borrow a bottle of air from my 
> buddy and spend 45 minutes under the boat with the gators.  Done.
> 
> Rig came in handy last year when I had to change my prop in the water.
> 
> Divers in my area are about $80-90 for a 35-40 footer.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> From: Jake Brodersen 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 7:50 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft
> 
> Joe,
> 
> I clean my own bottom too.  It was well worth the investment in dive gear
> and training.  I can clean the bottom before each race and not worry about
> the expense.  The going rate around here is anywhere from $1.50 to $2.00 a
> foot, unless the bottom is really fouled.  Then plan on spending more.
> 
> I clean the bottom every day at Screwpile.  The water is clear enough to see
> what I'm doing, unlike the lower Chesapeake...
> 
> Jake
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Midnight Mistress
> Hampton VA
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
> Barba, Joe
> Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 8:01 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft
> 
> I have paid anyplace between $60 and $150, depending on who does it and how
> dirty the boat is. I have my own gear too, but my wife is convinced I'll get
> a  horrible disease from swimming in the marina. She only wants me cleaning
> the boat up at the yacht club or some other semi-clean place. So far the
> worst I have had is an ear infection from Weems Creek and barnacle cuts that
> get infected. Please do NOT clean the bottom without gloves. Those cuts
> always get red and take a long time to heal :(
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List bottom cleaning

[cenelson]

I have mine done before every race (about every 2 weeks) in the Neuse River in 
North Carolina.


On a contract for regular cleaning, I am charged $1.50 per minute of dive + 
prep time or about $40 each time.


Charlie Nelson
1995 C&C 36XL/kcb


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Chuck S 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Tue, Sep 3, 2013 6:00 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom cleaning



Hookah compressor, w hose and regulator cost me $850 brand new.  You can buy 
cheaper ones on Ebay, I'm sure.  We clean our own bottom before each race and 
change zincs, and lend the system to others, it's proven a very good investment.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


From: "Ed Dooley" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 5:53:00 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

My marina here on Lake Champlain charges $4/foot.
Ed


From: Jack Brennan 
Down here in Florida, you really need to have the bottom done every month, even 
after a haulout and repaint. The algae growth is amazing. (The Tampa Bay area 
bans the sale of fertilizer during the summer to protect against major blooms.)
 
So the divers concentrate on a volume business. They try to get a couple of 
dozen boats in one location – they often offer a deal at large marinas – then 
go right down the line and get them all done at once. On a monthly contract, a 
boat won’t accumulate that much growth, so it takes about 30 minutes on a 
30-foot boat.
 
I suspect you folks are partly paying for drive time. Plus, there are a million 
divers here who love to be in the water all of the time, so there is a good 
deal of competition.
 
 
From: Josh Muckley   

$35 is an amazing price, especially in a warm climate where the growth is 
guaranteed to be heavier.  I've heard of others in the Solomons area getting a 
recurrent contract price of $100 per month for biweekly cleanings.  Comes down 
to how often you think it needs done and how good your paint is.

Josh

On Sep 3, 2013 10:18 AM, "Jack Brennan"  wrote:

 $35 for a monthly cleaning on a 30-footer in St. Petersburg, Fl. I paid  $45 
in Pompano Beach, Fl.
 
 At those prices, there’s no way I would ever jump overboard and do it  myself.


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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Dennis C.]

Same here.  My buddy, who is a salvage diver, recommended I pick up a Conshelf 
XIV off eBay.  I bought a Brownie's 3rd lung 50 foot hose and a 2 piece wet 
suit.  All told, around $300.  I borrow a bottle of air from my buddy and spend 
45 minutes under the boat with the gators.  Done.

Rig came in handy last year when I had to change my prop in the water.

Divers in my area are about $80-90 for a 35-40 footer.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>
> From: Jake Brodersen 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 7:50 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft
> 
>
>Joe,
>
>I clean my own bottom too.  It was well worth the investment in dive gear
>and training.  I can clean the bottom before each race and not worry about
>the expense.  The going rate around here is anywhere from $1.50 to $2.00 a
>foot, unless the bottom is really fouled.  Then plan on spending more.
>
>I clean the bottom every day at Screwpile.  The water is clear enough to see
>what I'm doing, unlike the lower Chesapeake...
>
>Jake
>
>Jake Brodersen
>C&C 35 Mk-III
>Midnight Mistress
>Hampton VA
>              
>
>
>
>
>
>-Original Message-
>From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
>Barba, Joe
>Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 8:01 AM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft
>
>I have paid anyplace between $60 and $150, depending on who does it and how
>dirty the boat is. I have my own gear too, but my wife is convinced I'll get
>a  horrible disease from swimming in the marina. She only wants me cleaning
>the boat up at the yacht club or some other semi-clean place. So far the
>worst I have had is an ear infection from Weems Creek and barnacle cuts that
>get infected. Please do NOT clean the bottom without gloves. Those cuts
>always get red and take a long time to heal :(
>
>Joe Della Barba
>Coquina 
>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Jake Brodersen]

Joe,

I clean my own bottom too.  It was well worth the investment in dive gear
and training.  I can clean the bottom before each race and not worry about
the expense.  The going rate around here is anywhere from $1.50 to $2.00 a
foot, unless the bottom is really fouled.  Then plan on spending more.

I clean the bottom every day at Screwpile.  The water is clear enough to see
what I'm doing, unlike the lower Chesapeake...

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III
Midnight Mistress
Hampton VA
   





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 8:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

I have paid anyplace between $60 and $150, depending on who does it and how
dirty the boat is. I have my own gear too, but my wife is convinced I'll get
a  horrible disease from swimming in the marina. She only wants me cleaning
the boat up at the yacht club or some other semi-clean place. So far the
worst I have had is an ear infection from Weems Creek and barnacle cuts that
get infected. Please do NOT clean the bottom without gloves. Those cuts
always get red and take a long time to heal :(

Joe Della Barba
Coquina 


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Re: Stus-List bottom cleaning

[Ed Dooley]

We have the bottom cleaned when the boat's hauled fornthe season. I never know 
exactly when it'll be hauled until I getbthe email. Bybthe time I hear, the 
boat's been out ofne water for a day or two. By the time I get to see the boat, 
anything on the bottom is dried out. So, I pay the $4/foot.
Ed

On Sep 3, 2013, at 6:00 PM, Chuck S  wrote:

> Hookah compressor, w hose and regulator cost me $850 brand new.  You can buy 
> cheaper ones on Ebay, I'm sure.  We clean our own bottom before each race and 
> change zincs, and lend the system to others, it's proven a very good 
> investment.
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> From: "Ed Dooley" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 5:53:00 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft
> 
> My marina here on Lake Champlain charges $4/foot.
> Ed
> 
> 
> From: Jack Brennan 
> Down here in Florida, you really need to have the bottom done every month, 
> even .

> after a haulout and repaint. The algae growth is amazing. (The Tampa Bay area 
> bans the sale of fertilizer during the summer to protect against major 
> blooms.)
>  
> So the divers concentrate on a volume business. They try to get a couple of 
> dozen boats in one location – they often offer a deal at large marinas – then 
> go right down the line and get them all done at once. On a monthly contract, 
> a boat won’t accumulate that much growth, so it takes about 30 minutes on a 
> 30-foot boat.
>  
> I suspect you folks are partly paying for drive time. Plus, there are a 
> million divers here who love to be in the water all of the time, so there is 
> a good deal of competition.
>  
> 
> From: Josh Muckley   
> 
> $35 is an amazing price, especially in a warm climate where the growth is 
> guaranteed to be heavier.  I've heard of others in the Solomons area getting 
> a recurrent contract price of $100 per month for biweekly cleanings.  Comes 
> down to how often you think it needs done and how good your paint is.
> 
> Josh
> 
> On Sep 3, 2013 10:18 AM, "Jack Brennan"  wrote:
> $35 for a monthly cleaning on a 30-footer in St. Petersburg, Fl. I paid  $45 
> in Pompano Beach, Fl.
>  
>  At those prices, there’s no way I would ever jump overboard and do it  
> myself.
> 
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

[Jack Brennan]

Don't forget Webb Chiles going around the world in a Drascombe Lugger, a 
small open boat.


Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

-Original Message- 
From: J.P.

Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 6:15 PM
To: 'Colin Kilgour' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

Yeah, and they are better sailors than a novice or first timer...

However, my very first boat was a copy of Tinkerbelle (Called Tinkerbelle
2), the 13' sloop sailed by Robert Manry. It's not a sea kindly boat, not in
any sense, but a proper mariner could probably make anything "useable" and
possible to sail across any stretch of water...as Manry proved... C&C or
not... it may be EASIER to do in a better boat, but I think a good sailor
makes the boat more often than the boat makes a good sailor...

JP

-Original Message-
From: Colin Kilgour [mailto:charliekilo...@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 3:07 PM
To: ja...@jpiworldwide.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

The Pardeys' boat is much more seakindly than a C&C.  It's not just about
size.

Cheers
Colin


On 9/3/13, J.P.  wrote:

And what about Lynn and Larry Pardey? J



JP



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Indigo
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 2:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the
Atlantic



Lots of very valid points - but as far as size, storage space is
concerned, I am reminded that Sir Robin Knox Johnston sailed non stop
round the world
-
taking 10 months - in a 32 ft ketch. Clearly the number of crew will
determine the amount of food, gear, water etc needed.  Keep the crew
size down, and I am sure a 35Mk1 will cope easily with a crossing of
the pond



Jonathan



  _

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Della Barba, Joe
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 1:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the
Atlantic



Reasons and methods to go across:



1.   Delivery: you need the boat on the other side of the ocean. Add a
liferaft and EPIRB and go. Fix anything that looks defective. This is
what a paid crew would do. Pick time and route to avoid "perfect
storms". The boat will remain on the other side and not used as a
trans-ocean commuter. Avoid extensive mods by picking a good time of
year to go.



2.   Stunt: You want to prove that YOUR boat can make it across. We

all

know the bigger C&Cs can do this, but who will be the first 27 or SR21
across? I know someone who crossed the pond in a Cal 20 along these lines.
Pay up the life insurance or be really good with weather routing.



3.   Conversion to a passagemaker: You want your boat to be equipped
for
ocean crossings as a routine trip. This will cost some $$$ to do right
and most of the smaller C&Cs will have near-unfixable handicaps
compared to boats made for this. To take my own 35 as an example, the
boat surely can sail across the ocean as easily - or not - as she has
made Bermuda. What will get to you is lack of fuel, lack of water,
lack of dry storage, lack of storage that isn't under a bunk, wet
ride, and quick motion. Like most shallow-bilged production fin keel
boats, my bilge is shallow enough that water is all over the place in
rough seas, not trapped down in a deep bilge sump. This can be quite
annoying. Steering in big seas at speed is HARD. It is really fun to
hit 15 knots, but it is also HARD work. Might be a lot for a small
crew. I could buy a Landfall 38 easier than I could make my boat a
Landfall equivalent and that isn't even straying outside the C&C family.
I'd
rather be in something like a Pacific Seacraft 38 if it were just two
or three of us.



Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I




--
Sent from my mobile device


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Re: Stus-List bottom cleaning

[Chuck S]

Hookah compressor, w hose and regulator cost me $850 brand new. You can buy 
cheaper ones on Ebay, I'm sure. We clean our own bottom before each race and 
change zincs, and lend the system to others, it's proven a very good 
investment. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Ed Dooley"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 5:53:00 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft 

Re: self-cleaning shaft My marina here on Lake Champlain charges $4/foot. 
Ed 


From: Jack Brennan < jackbren...@bellsouth.net > 
Down here in Florida, you really need to have the bottom done every month, even 
after a haulout and repaint. The algae growth is amazing. (The Tampa Bay area 
bans the sale of fertilizer during the summer to protect against major blooms.) 

So the divers concentrate on a volume business. They try to get a couple of 
dozen boats in one location – they often offer a deal at large marinas – then 
go right down the line and get them all done at once. On a monthly contract, a 
boat won’t accumulate that much growth, so it takes about 30 minutes on a 
30-foot boat. 

I suspect you folks are partly paying for drive time. Plus, there are a million 
divers here who love to be in the water all of the time, so there is a good 
deal of competition. 


From: Josh Muckley < mailto:muckl...@gmail.com > 

$35 is an amazing price, especially in a warm climate where the growth is 
guaranteed to be heavier. I've heard of others in the Solomons area getting a 
recurrent contract price of $100 per month for biweekly cleanings. Comes down 
to how often you think it needs done and how good your paint is. 

Josh 

On Sep 3, 2013 10:18 AM, "Jack Brennan" < jackbren...@bellsouth.net > wrote: 


$35 for a monthly cleaning on a 30-footer in St. Petersburg, Fl. I paid $45 in 
Pompano Beach, Fl. 

At those prices, there’s no way I would ever jump overboard and do it myself. 



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Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

[J.P.]

Fer Sure

JP

-Original Message-
From: Jack Brennan [mailto:jackbren...@bellsouth.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 3:39 PM
To: ja...@jpiworldwide.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

Don't forget Webb Chiles going around the world in a Drascombe Lugger, a
small open boat.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

-Original Message-
From: J.P.
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 6:15 PM
To: 'Colin Kilgour' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

Yeah, and they are better sailors than a novice or first timer...

However, my very first boat was a copy of Tinkerbelle (Called Tinkerbelle
2), the 13' sloop sailed by Robert Manry. It's not a sea kindly boat, not in
any sense, but a proper mariner could probably make anything "useable" and
possible to sail across any stretch of water...as Manry proved... C&C or
not... it may be EASIER to do in a better boat, but I think a good sailor
makes the boat more often than the boat makes a good sailor...

JP

-Original Message-
From: Colin Kilgour [mailto:charliekilo...@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 3:07 PM
To: ja...@jpiworldwide.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

The Pardeys' boat is much more seakindly than a C&C.  It's not just about
size.

Cheers
Colin


On 9/3/13, J.P.  wrote:
> And what about Lynn and Larry Pardey? J
>
>
>
> JP
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Indigo
> Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 2:33 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the 
> Atlantic
>
>
>
> Lots of very valid points - but as far as size, storage space is 
> concerned, I am reminded that Sir Robin Knox Johnston sailed non stop 
> round the world
> -
> taking 10 months - in a 32 ft ketch. Clearly the number of crew will 
> determine the amount of food, gear, water etc needed.  Keep the crew 
> size down, and I am sure a 35Mk1 will cope easily with a crossing of 
> the pond
>
>
>
> Jonathan
>
>
>
>   _
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Della Barba, Joe
> Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 1:59 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the 
> Atlantic
>
>
>
> Reasons and methods to go across:
>
>
>
> 1.   Delivery: you need the boat on the other side of the ocean. Add a
> liferaft and EPIRB and go. Fix anything that looks defective. This is 
> what a paid crew would do. Pick time and route to avoid "perfect 
> storms". The boat will remain on the other side and not used as a 
> trans-ocean commuter. Avoid extensive mods by picking a good time of 
> year to go.
>
>
>
> 2.   Stunt: You want to prove that YOUR boat can make it across. We
all
> know the bigger C&Cs can do this, but who will be the first 27 or SR21 
> across? I know someone who crossed the pond in a Cal 20 along these lines.
> Pay up the life insurance or be really good with weather routing.
>
>
>
> 3.   Conversion to a passagemaker: You want your boat to be equipped
> for
> ocean crossings as a routine trip. This will cost some $$$ to do right 
> and most of the smaller C&Cs will have near-unfixable handicaps 
> compared to boats made for this. To take my own 35 as an example, the 
> boat surely can sail across the ocean as easily - or not - as she has 
> made Bermuda. What will get to you is lack of fuel, lack of water, 
> lack of dry storage, lack of storage that isn't under a bunk, wet 
> ride, and quick motion. Like most shallow-bilged production fin keel 
> boats, my bilge is shallow enough that water is all over the place in 
> rough seas, not trapped down in a deep bilge sump. This can be quite 
> annoying. Steering in big seas at speed is HARD. It is really fun to 
> hit 15 knots, but it is also HARD work. Might be a lot for a small 
> crew. I could buy a Landfall 38 easier than I could make my boat a 
> Landfall equivalent and that isn't even straying outside the C&C family.
> I'd
> rather be in something like a Pacific Seacraft 38 if it were just two 
> or three of us.
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>

--
Sent from my mobile device


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Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

[J.P.]

Yeah, and they are better sailors than a novice or first timer...

However, my very first boat was a copy of Tinkerbelle (Called Tinkerbelle
2), the 13' sloop sailed by Robert Manry. It's not a sea kindly boat, not in
any sense, but a proper mariner could probably make anything "useable" and
possible to sail across any stretch of water...as Manry proved... C&C or
not... it may be EASIER to do in a better boat, but I think a good sailor
makes the boat more often than the boat makes a good sailor... 

JP

-Original Message-
From: Colin Kilgour [mailto:charliekilo...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 3:07 PM
To: ja...@jpiworldwide.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

The Pardeys' boat is much more seakindly than a C&C.  It's not just about
size.

Cheers
Colin


On 9/3/13, J.P.  wrote:
> And what about Lynn and Larry Pardey? J
>
>
>
> JP
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Indigo
> Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 2:33 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the 
> Atlantic
>
>
>
> Lots of very valid points - but as far as size, storage space is 
> concerned, I am reminded that Sir Robin Knox Johnston sailed non stop 
> round the world
> -
> taking 10 months - in a 32 ft ketch. Clearly the number of crew will 
> determine the amount of food, gear, water etc needed.  Keep the crew 
> size down, and I am sure a 35Mk1 will cope easily with a crossing of 
> the pond
>
>
>
> Jonathan
>
>
>
>   _
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Della Barba, Joe
> Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 1:59 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the 
> Atlantic
>
>
>
> Reasons and methods to go across:
>
>
>
> 1.   Delivery: you need the boat on the other side of the ocean. Add a
> liferaft and EPIRB and go. Fix anything that looks defective. This is 
> what a paid crew would do. Pick time and route to avoid "perfect 
> storms". The boat will remain on the other side and not used as a 
> trans-ocean commuter. Avoid extensive mods by picking a good time of 
> year to go.
>
>
>
> 2.   Stunt: You want to prove that YOUR boat can make it across. We
all
> know the bigger C&Cs can do this, but who will be the first 27 or SR21 
> across? I know someone who crossed the pond in a Cal 20 along these lines.
> Pay up the life insurance or be really good with weather routing.
>
>
>
> 3.   Conversion to a passagemaker: You want your boat to be equipped
> for
> ocean crossings as a routine trip. This will cost some $$$ to do right 
> and most of the smaller C&Cs will have near-unfixable handicaps 
> compared to boats made for this. To take my own 35 as an example, the 
> boat surely can sail across the ocean as easily - or not - as she has 
> made Bermuda. What will get to you is lack of fuel, lack of water, 
> lack of dry storage, lack of storage that isn't under a bunk, wet 
> ride, and quick motion. Like most shallow-bilged production fin keel 
> boats, my bilge is shallow enough that water is all over the place in 
> rough seas, not trapped down in a deep bilge sump. This can be quite 
> annoying. Steering in big seas at speed is HARD. It is really fun to 
> hit 15 knots, but it is also HARD work. Might be a lot for a small 
> crew. I could buy a Landfall 38 easier than I could make my boat a 
> Landfall equivalent and that isn't even straying outside the C&C family.
> I'd
> rather be in something like a Pacific Seacraft 38 if it were just two 
> or three of us.
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>

--
Sent from my mobile device


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Re: Stus-List C&C smile - wet keel bolts

[Bill Coleman]

Find the lowest part of your bilge and drill a hole then epoxy a 
Garboard Drain/Plug in .

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 9:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C smile - wet keel bolts

 

Count me among those with water constantly in the bilge. The past two
winters with the boat out of the water there has been no evidence of a smile
but I have been concerned with the bilge and it always having water in it.
Keel stepped, when it rains, water in the bilge. Aside from that any
condensation in the boat, the stuffing box (which needs repacking), etc, and
I have water in the bilge, all the time.

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 8:44 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:

John and others

In the reply below you reference the problems from wet stainless in
oxygen deprived environment.  I have heard this comment several times
before also.

I am not aware of a large nimber of sailboats that do not have some
water in th bilge most if not all the time.  Since this is where the
kell bolts are torgued with the nuts it seem that this would count as
wet and oxygen deprived.  Am I missing something or are we all in
imminent danger?

Mike

Nut Case


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
and Maryann Read
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 5:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C smile

Hi Bill

If your keelboats are leaking, then your smile has progressed to the
point
of more than stuffing in some bondo and the need for some redoing the
keel /
sump seal itself to prevent leaks.  Remember that the keel bolts are
stainless which will degrade when wet in an oxygen deprived environment
which is what happens when the keel / sump seal is compromised.  A good
starting place would be get the opinion of your local fiberglass repair
shop.  I believe this subject is also well covered in the archives of
this
list as well as the DIY section of the photoalbum.

To be absolutely sure, the preferred process at haul out would be to 1)
lower the keel, 2)  clean, fair and prep the mating surfaces, 3)
reattach
the keel with a preferred adhesive / sealant, 4)  properly torque the
keel
bolts, 5) grind and fair both sides of the joint by at least a foot, 6)
apply fiberglass as a fairing, 7)  fair the fiberglass, 8)  apply
several
coats of barrier coat then bottom paint.

If this is too much, then you can try digging out all bondo and as best
you
can expose the joint as deeply as possible.  Clean it to provide a good
sealing surface.  Stuff in your sealant, then proceed at step 4.

Fiberglass tape provides negligible structural integrity.  The keel
bolts
and adhesive at the sump / keel joint do that.  The tape is to fair the
joint.  If there is insufficient structural integrity, the keel will
flex
and break the tape bond.

Hope this helps



John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Connon
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 1:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C smile

I've been fixing the smile with Bondo over the past few years. This
season
I've noticed that I'm getting some sea water into the bilge ( along with
rainwater that comes down the mast ). On haulout this year I'm planning
on
making a more permanent fix. Has anybody used G-Flex epoxy for this
project?
I plan on using thickened epoxy to fill the gap and then use wetted out
fibreglass tape to strengthen the joint.
Comments, ideas and suggestions would be appreciated.

Bill
Caprice 1
1978 C&C 36

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Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

[J.P.]

Er Uh

 

LIN and Larry Pardey


JP

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P.
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 2:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

 

And what about Lynn and Larry Pardey? J

 

JP

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 2:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

 

Lots of very valid points - but as far as size, storage space is concerned,
I am reminded that Sir Robin Knox Johnston sailed non stop round the world -
taking 10 months - in a 32 ft ketch. Clearly the number of crew will
determine the amount of food, gear, water etc needed.  Keep the crew size
down, and I am sure a 35Mk1 will cope easily with a crossing of the pond

 

Jonathan

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 1:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

 

Reasons and methods to go across:

 

1.   Delivery: you need the boat on the other side of the ocean. Add a
liferaft and EPIRB and go. Fix anything that looks defective. This is what a
paid crew would do. Pick time and route to avoid "perfect storms". The boat
will remain on the other side and not used as a trans-ocean commuter. Avoid
extensive mods by picking a good time of year to go.

 

2.   Stunt: You want to prove that YOUR boat can make it across. We all
know the bigger C&Cs can do this, but who will be the first 27 or SR21
across? I know someone who crossed the pond in a Cal 20 along these lines.
Pay up the life insurance or be really good with weather routing.

 

3.   Conversion to a passagemaker: You want your boat to be equipped for
ocean crossings as a routine trip. This will cost some $$$ to do right and
most of the smaller C&Cs will have near-unfixable handicaps compared to
boats made for this. To take my own 35 as an example, the boat surely can
sail across the ocean as easily - or not - as she has made Bermuda. What
will get to you is lack of fuel, lack of water, lack of dry storage, lack of
storage that isn't under a bunk, wet ride, and quick motion. Like most
shallow-bilged production fin keel boats, my bilge is shallow enough that
water is all over the place in rough seas, not trapped down in a deep bilge
sump. This can be quite annoying. Steering in big seas at speed is HARD. It
is really fun to hit 15 knots, but it is also HARD work. Might be a lot for
a small crew. I could buy a Landfall 38 easier than I could make my boat a
Landfall equivalent and that isn't even straying outside the C&C family. I'd
rather be in something like a Pacific Seacraft 38 if it were just two or
three of us.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina 

C&C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List More on Automated VHF Radio Checks

[randy]

Wow!  Those are few and far between over here on the left coast compared to
east coast...  I don't think I'll hit Seattle from homeport...


randy
Tamanawas
29-II
Hood River, OR



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 2:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List More on Automated VHF Radio Checks

Did a little research on this.  Not sure if SeaTow is the only provider of
this service, but it seems to be in Long Island Sound.  The GOOD news is
that they use a number of different channels, so by knowing what stations
use which channels (for example Bridgeport, my closest station, uses #24,
Port Jefferson, #27 and Huntington Harbor #28) so by using the farthest
first, I can tell how far my radio is transmitting ! - Much better than I
first understood.

 

You can get a map of the various stations in your area by entering your zip
code at

 

http://www.seatow.com/boating-safety/automated-radio-checks

 

 

Jonathan Thomson

C&C 35III - Indigo, Southport CT



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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Ed Dooley]

My marina here on Lake Champlain charges $4/foot.
Ed


From: Jack Brennan 
Down here in Florida, you really need to have the bottom done every month,
even after a haulout and repaint. The algae growth is amazing. (The Tampa
Bay area bans the sale of fertilizer during the summer to protect against
major blooms.)
 
So the divers concentrate on a volume business. They try to get a couple of
dozen boats in one location ­ they often offer a deal at large marinas ­
then go right down the line and get them all done at once. On a monthly
contract, a boat won¹t accumulate that much growth, so it takes about 30
minutes on a 30-foot boat.
 
I suspect you folks are partly paying for drive time. Plus, there are a
million divers here who love to be in the water all of the time, so there is
a good deal of competition.
 
 
From: Josh Muckley 

$35 is an amazing price, especially in a warm climate where the growth is
guaranteed to be heavier.  I've heard of others in the Solomons area getting
a recurrent contract price of $100 per month for biweekly cleanings.  Comes
down to how often you think it needs done and how good your paint is.

Josh

On Sep 3, 2013 10:18 AM, "Jack Brennan"  wrote:
>  $35 for a monthly cleaning on a 30-footer in St. Petersburg, Fl. I paid  $45
> in Pompano Beach, Fl.
>  
>  At those prices, there¹s no way I would ever jump overboard and do it
> myself.

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Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

[J.P.]

And what about Lynn and Larry Pardey? J

 

JP

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 2:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

 

Lots of very valid points - but as far as size, storage space is concerned,
I am reminded that Sir Robin Knox Johnston sailed non stop round the world -
taking 10 months - in a 32 ft ketch. Clearly the number of crew will
determine the amount of food, gear, water etc needed.  Keep the crew size
down, and I am sure a 35Mk1 will cope easily with a crossing of the pond

 

Jonathan

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 1:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

 

Reasons and methods to go across:

 

1.   Delivery: you need the boat on the other side of the ocean. Add a
liferaft and EPIRB and go. Fix anything that looks defective. This is what a
paid crew would do. Pick time and route to avoid "perfect storms". The boat
will remain on the other side and not used as a trans-ocean commuter. Avoid
extensive mods by picking a good time of year to go.

 

2.   Stunt: You want to prove that YOUR boat can make it across. We all
know the bigger C&Cs can do this, but who will be the first 27 or SR21
across? I know someone who crossed the pond in a Cal 20 along these lines.
Pay up the life insurance or be really good with weather routing.

 

3.   Conversion to a passagemaker: You want your boat to be equipped for
ocean crossings as a routine trip. This will cost some $$$ to do right and
most of the smaller C&Cs will have near-unfixable handicaps compared to
boats made for this. To take my own 35 as an example, the boat surely can
sail across the ocean as easily - or not - as she has made Bermuda. What
will get to you is lack of fuel, lack of water, lack of dry storage, lack of
storage that isn't under a bunk, wet ride, and quick motion. Like most
shallow-bilged production fin keel boats, my bilge is shallow enough that
water is all over the place in rough seas, not trapped down in a deep bilge
sump. This can be quite annoying. Steering in big seas at speed is HARD. It
is really fun to hit 15 knots, but it is also HARD work. Might be a lot for
a small crew. I could buy a Landfall 38 easier than I could make my boat a
Landfall equivalent and that isn't even straying outside the C&C family. I'd
rather be in something like a Pacific Seacraft 38 if it were just two or
three of us.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina 

C&C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List 1990s C&C 36 XL/kcb

[Chuck S]

You might try Mars Metals? I think they made all of our keels? 
I bought a keel from them in 2007/08 and worked with a guy named Bill Souter. 
1-800-381-5335 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: cenel...@aol.com 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 1:59:24 PM 
Subject: Stus-List 1990s C&C 36 XL/kcb 


I am trying to locate drawings that give details on the keel/centerboard 
dimensions for my 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb. 

So far the Kingston Maritime Museum has not been able to find any and neither 
does South Shore Yachts. 

If someone on the list has them for this model or the centerboard 
trunk/centerboard , I would be glad to pay to have them copied 
and mailed. 

OTOH, if a lister has another source of these drawings, I would appreciate a 
link to them. 

Thanks, 

Charlie Nelson 
Water Phantom 
1995 C&C XL/kcb 





cenel...@aol.com 

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Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

[Indigo]

Lots of very valid points - but as far as size, storage space is concerned,
I am reminded that Sir Robin Knox Johnston sailed non stop round the world -
taking 10 months - in a 32 ft ketch. Clearly the number of crew will
determine the amount of food, gear, water etc needed.  Keep the crew size
down, and I am sure a 35Mk1 will cope easily with a crossing of the pond

 

Jonathan

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 1:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

 

Reasons and methods to go across:

 

1.   Delivery: you need the boat on the other side of the ocean. Add a
liferaft and EPIRB and go. Fix anything that looks defective. This is what a
paid crew would do. Pick time and route to avoid "perfect storms". The boat
will remain on the other side and not used as a trans-ocean commuter. Avoid
extensive mods by picking a good time of year to go.

 

2.   Stunt: You want to prove that YOUR boat can make it across. We all
know the bigger C&Cs can do this, but who will be the first 27 or SR21
across? I know someone who crossed the pond in a Cal 20 along these lines.
Pay up the life insurance or be really good with weather routing.

 

3.   Conversion to a passagemaker: You want your boat to be equipped for
ocean crossings as a routine trip. This will cost some $$$ to do right and
most of the smaller C&Cs will have near-unfixable handicaps compared to
boats made for this. To take my own 35 as an example, the boat surely can
sail across the ocean as easily - or not - as she has made Bermuda. What
will get to you is lack of fuel, lack of water, lack of dry storage, lack of
storage that isn't under a bunk, wet ride, and quick motion. Like most
shallow-bilged production fin keel boats, my bilge is shallow enough that
water is all over the place in rough seas, not trapped down in a deep bilge
sump. This can be quite annoying. Steering in big seas at speed is HARD. It
is really fun to hit 15 knots, but it is also HARD work. Might be a lot for
a small crew. I could buy a Landfall 38 easier than I could make my boat a
Landfall equivalent and that isn't even straying outside the C&C family. I'd
rather be in something like a Pacific Seacraft 38 if it were just two or
three of us.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina 

C&C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

[Colin Kilgour]

The Pardeys' boat is much more seakindly than a C&C.  It's not just about size.

Cheers
Colin


On 9/3/13, J.P.  wrote:
> And what about Lynn and Larry Pardey? J
>
>
>
> JP
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
> Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 2:33 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic
>
>
>
> Lots of very valid points - but as far as size, storage space is concerned,
> I am reminded that Sir Robin Knox Johnston sailed non stop round the world
> -
> taking 10 months - in a 32 ft ketch. Clearly the number of crew will
> determine the amount of food, gear, water etc needed.  Keep the crew size
> down, and I am sure a 35Mk1 will cope easily with a crossing of the pond
>
>
>
> Jonathan
>
>
>
>   _
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
> Barba, Joe
> Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 1:59 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic
>
>
>
> Reasons and methods to go across:
>
>
>
> 1.   Delivery: you need the boat on the other side of the ocean. Add a
> liferaft and EPIRB and go. Fix anything that looks defective. This is what
> a
> paid crew would do. Pick time and route to avoid "perfect storms". The boat
> will remain on the other side and not used as a trans-ocean commuter. Avoid
> extensive mods by picking a good time of year to go.
>
>
>
> 2.   Stunt: You want to prove that YOUR boat can make it across. We all
> know the bigger C&Cs can do this, but who will be the first 27 or SR21
> across? I know someone who crossed the pond in a Cal 20 along these lines.
> Pay up the life insurance or be really good with weather routing.
>
>
>
> 3.   Conversion to a passagemaker: You want your boat to be equipped
> for
> ocean crossings as a routine trip. This will cost some $$$ to do right and
> most of the smaller C&Cs will have near-unfixable handicaps compared to
> boats made for this. To take my own 35 as an example, the boat surely can
> sail across the ocean as easily - or not - as she has made Bermuda. What
> will get to you is lack of fuel, lack of water, lack of dry storage, lack
> of
> storage that isn't under a bunk, wet ride, and quick motion. Like most
> shallow-bilged production fin keel boats, my bilge is shallow enough that
> water is all over the place in rough seas, not trapped down in a deep bilge
> sump. This can be quite annoying. Steering in big seas at speed is HARD. It
> is really fun to hit 15 knots, but it is also HARD work. Might be a lot for
> a small crew. I could buy a Landfall 38 easier than I could make my boat a
> Landfall equivalent and that isn't even straying outside the C&C family.
> I'd
> rather be in something like a Pacific Seacraft 38 if it were just two or
> three of us.
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

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Stus-List More on Automated VHF Radio Checks

[Indigo]

Did a little research on this.  Not sure if SeaTow is the only provider of
this service, but it seems to be in Long Island Sound.  The GOOD news is
that they use a number of different channels, so by knowing what stations
use which channels (for example Bridgeport, my closest station, uses #24,
Port Jefferson, #27 and Huntington Harbor #28) so by using the farthest
first, I can tell how far my radio is transmitting ! - Much better than I
first understood.

 

You can get a map of the various stations in your area by entering your zip
code at

 

http://www.seatow.com/boating-safety/automated-radio-checks

 

 

Jonathan Thomson

C&C 35III - Indigo, Southport CT



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Re: Stus-List Aaargh! Mark your calendars, me mateys.

[Frederick G Street]

Here's an appropriate song by a friend of mine:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8_NlNSINbA

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 3, 2013, at 4:12 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> September 19 is "Talk Like a Pirate Day".
> 
> http://www.talklikeapirate.com/piratehome.html
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List Aaargh! Mark your calendars, me mateys.

[Dennis C.]

September 19 is "Talk Like a Pirate Day".

http://www.talklikeapirate.com/piratehome.html

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List water tank capacity 36-foot

[Rick Bushie]

I can't say I've increased capacity on Anchovy. I converted the 35 gallon tank 
under the v-berth to a holding tank as when I bought her she had a two gallon 
gas can for that purpose. Then, to replace the capacity i installed bladders on 
either side of the v-berth. I carry 50 gallons now.

Rick

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

[Knowles Rich]

A gentleman at RNSYS in Halifax by the name of Denis Linton sailed his 1985 
CC27 to Ireland in around 2000 or do. No problem except lots of headsail 
changes. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-09-03, at 14:59, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

> We all know the bigger C&Cs can do this, but who will be the first 27 or SR21 
> across

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Stus-List 1990s C&C 36 XL/kcb

[cenelson]

I am trying to locate drawings that give details on the keel/centerboard 
dimensions for my 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb.

So far the Kingston Maritime Museum has not been able to find any and neither 
does South Shore Yachts. 

If someone on the list has them for this model or the centerboard 
trunk/centerboard , I would be glad to pay to have them copied
and mailed.

OTOH, if a lister has another source of these drawings, I would appreciate a 
link to them.

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C XL/kcb





cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

[Della Barba, Joe]

Reasons and methods to go across:


1.   Delivery: you need the boat on the other side of the ocean. Add a 
liferaft and EPIRB and go. Fix anything that looks defective. This is what a 
paid crew would do. Pick time and route to avoid "perfect storms". The boat 
will remain on the other side and not used as a trans-ocean commuter. Avoid 
extensive mods by picking a good time of year to go.



2.   Stunt: You want to prove that YOUR boat can make it across. We all 
know the bigger C&Cs can do this, but who will be the first 27 or SR21 across? 
I know someone who crossed the pond in a Cal 20 along these lines. Pay up the 
life insurance or be really good with weather routing.



3.   Conversion to a passagemaker: You want your boat to be equipped for 
ocean crossings as a routine trip. This will cost some $$$ to do right and most 
of the smaller C&Cs will have near-unfixable handicaps compared to boats made 
for this. To take my own 35 as an example, the boat surely can sail across the 
ocean as easily - or not - as she has made Bermuda. What will get to you is 
lack of fuel, lack of water, lack of dry storage, lack of storage that isn't 
under a bunk, wet ride, and quick motion. Like most shallow-bilged production 
fin keel boats, my bilge is shallow enough that water is all over the place in 
rough seas, not trapped down in a deep bilge sump. This can be quite annoying. 
Steering in big seas at speed is HARD. It is really fun to hit 15 knots, but it 
is also HARD work. Might be a lot for a small crew. I could buy a Landfall 38 
easier than I could make my boat a Landfall equivalent and that isn't even 
straying outside the C&C family. I'd rather be in something like a Pacific 
Seacraft 38 if it were just two or three of us.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

[Joel Aronson]

Coincidentally, there is a sistership to the Cat/Morgan on my dock.  My
mechanic stopped working on it because access was so bad.  When he need to
service the generator, Catalina told him to chisel off the nuts holding the
cover.

Joel
35/3


On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 1:14 PM, Colin Kilgour wrote:

> All these mods add up... which underscores a point I made in the past.  In
> today's market conditions, it simply doesn't make sense to outfit a boat
> that's not ocean or cruise ready.  It makes far more sense to buy a boat
> that's 95% of the way there and then add the small mods that it is
> missing.
>
> As an example, I just did a quick (literally 2 minutes) search on YW and
> came up with this Catalina Morgan CC 45 for under $100k.  It may not be
> everyone's cup of tea, and it may not even be mine, but for under $100k
> you've got an ocean capable boat, with a bunch of equipment on it, and a
> nice master cabin, which was one of the things that Richard was looking for
> when he started us down this road.
>
>
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1992/Catalina-Morgan-45-CC%2C-Center-Cockpit-2606839/Nanny-Cay/British-Virgin-Islands#.UiYWtT9IHAY
>
> (Disclosure: strictly by coincidence, the listing broker is a good friend
> of mine - but I have no interest one way or the other in this.  Just using
> this listing to illustrate my point.  There are a million others like it)
>
> Cheers,
> Colin
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 12:06 PM, Petar Horvatic wrote:
>
>> All good points, 
>>
>> Some key features I added in order of importance.
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> Inner forestay, and running backstays (2006)
>>
>> Magnafluxed the standing rigging, replaced headstay and assembled a
>> riggers tackelbox with spares pins, washers, etc.
>>
>> Added Monitor Windvane, kitted Autohelm 4000 ST with all spares (2005)***
>> *
>>
>> Re-bedded re-torqued keelbolts, (2004)
>>
>> Larger genoa track backplates 1/4”x2”, added backplates on all deck
>> fittings (2006)
>>
>> Added Dodger, bimini (2005)
>>
>> Added JRC 1000 Radar (2006)
>>
>> Assemble good paper chart collection, bough Offshore navigator for the
>> laptop, added GPSMAP 183 at the pedestal.  (2006)
>>
>> Added Rule 1500 GPH, and a second Rule 300 GPH on automatic float
>> switches, manual pump was already there (2005)
>>
>> Icom M710, AT-130, pactor 3, HAM license for winlink, glassed in 100 sq
>> feet or copper into the hull, replaced backstay + insulators (2005)
>>
>> Added Jiffy reefing, all lines led back to cockpit, added Jacklines,
>> (2006)
>>
>> Added 2 Kyocera Solar panels and Four winds II with regulators, (2005)***
>> *
>>
>> Bought Sail rite ultrafeed LSZ sewing machine (2005)
>>
>> Built RO watermaker (2006)
>>
>> Installed Refrigeration + enough spares to build another one + lots of
>> insulation (2004 rev 1, 2007 rev2)
>>
>> Re-wire the entire boat, add proper buss bars, grounding, ANL fuses, and
>> fuse every branch carry 5-6 spare fuses of each type (2004)
>>
>> Added Link 10, xantrex smart regulator, high output alternator + spare,
>> 1500W inverter (2004)
>>
>> Replaced all thru-hull fittings with marelon + ball valves (2003)
>>
>> Epoxy barrier coat, interlux 2000 (2004)
>>
>> Replaced atomic 4 with Westerbeke 4-108 (2011)
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> For cruising… considering that “Home is where you drop a hook”
>>
>> Airon 1500W windlass 3/8 BBB gipsy and 5/16” gipsy
>>
>> Spare tackle 100’ of 3/8” BBB spliced in another 100’ or rhode on a 35lbs
>> CQR.
>>
>> Main tackle 275’ of 5/16” BBB on a 45lbs CQR.   
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> Petar Horvatic
>>
>> Sundowner
>>
>> 76 C&C 38MkII
>>
>> Newport, RI
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Chuck
>> S
>> *Sent:* Sunday, September 01, 2013 1:31 PM
>> *To:* Brent Driedger
>> *Cc:* cnc-list CNC boat owners
>> *Subject:* Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic***
>> *
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> Brent,
>> I think most C&Cs are built strong enough to make an Atlantic crossing,
>> but I would prefer a heavier, stiffer vessel like a Swan for such a task.
>> It made me ask the question: how would I prepare my present boat for such
>> a challenge?
>>
>> Here's a short list to start:
>> Rehead all rod ends
>> Add EPIRB, AIS, backup AutoHelm
>> Add Storm sails
>> Add sprit and rollgen for light winds
>> Add Dodger
>> Install backing plates to all lifeline stanchions.
>> Fabricate boards to cover the side windows should any be damaged, stow
>> below.
>> Fabricate an emergency rudder.
>> Investigate drogues or sea anchors
>> Investigate desalinators
>> Consider a generator or water turbine generator
>>
>> Time of year is crucial;  I'd probably prefer to do it between June and
>> July, before hurricane season
>>
>> Work;  who can afford to take off that much time?  Are we sailing th

Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Rick Bushie]

Barnacle cuts are nasty! I have one in my foot from cleaning bottom on day one 
of man-cation. As an aside, I'm in Selby Bay on the South River on day four of 
Man-cation 2013.
Rick

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Re: Stus-List water tank capacity 36-foot

[Bill Connon]

Richard Walter wrote:

Greetings,

Our 1978 36-footer has a hard plastic water tank mounted under the 
starboard settee, It extends from the nav. station through 2/3 of the 
settee. Any idea what the capacity may be?  We also have a soft tank 
that empties to the hot water heater/shower/head sink.


Have others increased their water carrying capacity and if so, how?

Thank you,
Richard
s/v INDIGO
1978 36-foot
Watch Hill


Richard,

I have the same model boat and if memory serves, the tanks under the 
settees hold approx. 17 Imp gallons which is equivalent to 20 US 
gallons. The hard plastic tank under the forward berth hols 25 gallons 
giving me a total of 59 Imp. gallons.


Bill
Caprice 1
1978 C&C 36


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Re: Stus-List New (replacement) sails

[JOHN D IRVIN]

You might try Fx sails. They are in North Carolina. Very pleased with the main 
I bought from them. John Irvin  FIREFLY  BYC




From: Marek Dziedzic 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 10:25:49 AM
Subject: Stus-List New (replacement) sails



Hi,
 
The decision has been made - we are getting new sails. The ones we have are 
about 20 years old and even my admiral can see that they are quite blown 
(stretched). Now the questions start: what kind and where to buy.
 
We are in Ottawa, so there is no local sail loft. Doyle Sail can accept local 
orders, but I don't expect that they would come to the boat to do the 
measurements. This opens things up a bit, because suddenly there is no 
difference between anyone local and buying the sails on-line (or is there?).
 
Regarding where, I was thinking about Rolly Tasker, National Sails Supply, FX 
Sails (The Sails Store) and a few more. Do you have any recommendations (or 
horror stories)?
 
Regarding what:
 - cruising sails (we don't race)
 - fairly light (I try not to overpower; we reef early or don't sail if it is 
really blowing (I don't think we sailed over 25 kt) and we need good sails for 
those days when it is hardly blowing at all). Is 6.5-7 oz Dacron good? too 
much, too little?
 - I would like to get 2nd reef on the main - any comments (worth it, not 
really)?
 - I am thinking about the 135% genoa; however, I find that what I have is a 
bit small ( I would have to check if it is really a 135% or is it smaller). I 
would not go to 150-155%; I don't think I would ever be able to trim it 
correctly and it would be too much to handle. But what about 140%? I could 
easily handle a sail with the foot a 1 ft longer.
 - some vendors offer a transparent window in the sail; others don't.  Any 
thoughts about that?
 
Any other suggestions, ideas, things to think of?
 
thanks
 
Marek
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Re: Stus-List New (replacement) sails

[Josh Muckley]

I'm happy with the design and quality of my Quantum mainsail.  IMHO great
value should be given to having a local loft.  I sent quotes from competing
lofts to one another and had them explain the differences.  Once the
differences were removed the price was within a couple hundred and that was
easily valued by the local service and CUSTOM sail design with on site
measurements.  They did have some problems replicating the logo.  I still
don't understand why.  But the local service facilitated an easy correction.

Josh
 On Sep 3, 2013 10:47 AM, "Joel Aronson"  wrote:

> Marek,
>
> I'm very happy with my Rolly Tasker genoa (through National Sail Supply).
>  Yes to 2 reef points. Also, get at least 2 full battens.  The main will
> last longer.  I forget the size of your boat.  Under 30 feet I would think
> 7 oz cloth would be fine.  Don't forget to show you are proud to own a C&C
> - get the logo!
>
> I find windows are never in the right place.  Heel too much and all you
> see is water.  A small window for the telltales is useful.
>
> My $.02
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 10:33 AM, Jerome Tauber  wrote:
>
>> What is the boat?  I find North Direct to be a good value for the type of
>> sails you are describing.  Also check to see if North One Design has sails
>> for your model.   They are reasonably priced and performance oriented
>> Dacron.
>> Jerome Tauber, C&C27-5 , Montauk NY.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 3, 2013, at 10:25 AM, "Marek Dziedzic" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>  Hi,
>>
>> The decision has been made - we are getting new sails. The ones we have
>> are about 20 years old and even my admiral can see that they are quite
>> blown (stretched). Now the questions start: what kind and where to buy.
>>
>> We are in Ottawa, so there is no local sail loft. Doyle Sail can accept
>> local orders, but I don't expect that they would come to the boat to do the
>> measurements. This opens things up a bit, because suddenly there is no
>> difference between anyone local and buying the sails on-line (or is there?).
>>
>> Regarding where, I was thinking about Rolly Tasker, National Sails
>> Supply, FX Sails (The Sails Store) and a few more. Do you have any
>> recommendations (or horror stories)?
>>
>> Regarding what:
>>  - cruising sails (we don't race)
>>  - fairly light (I try not to overpower; we reef early or don't sail if
>> it is really blowing (I don't think we sailed over 25 kt) and we need good
>> sails for those days when it is hardly blowing at all). Is 6.5-7 oz Dacron
>> good? too much, too little?
>>  - I would like to get 2nd reef on the main - any comments (worth it, not
>> really)?
>>  - I am thinking about the 135% genoa; however, I find that what I have
>> is a bit small ( I would have to check if it is really a 135% or is it
>> smaller). I would not go to 150-155%; I don't think I would ever be able to
>> trim it correctly and it would be too much to handle. But what about 140%?
>> I could easily handle a sail with the foot a 1 ft longer.
>>  - some vendors offer a transparent window in the sail; others don't.
>> Any thoughts about that?
>>
>> Any other suggestions, ideas, things to think of?
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> Marek
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New (replacement) sails

[djhaug...@juno.com]

Marek, I went through this last year.  I ended up at a local sail maker just 
for convenience of service.  They came to the boat to measure and to install 
for the first time. I know a lot of people are really happy with Rolly Tasker 
from my research.  the only negatives i found were people who didn't actually 
have their sails.  Those that did were generally happy through all the threads 
I read. ...And you could probably save about 30%  through them. I have no 
experience with them other than getting a quote and I have no connection to 
them. Keep in mind, it is boat show season and most lofts are offering 
discounts of about 15%.  Just call and say you met them at the show.  Newport 
is the weekend of the 14th and Annapolis is in October.  Just check the website 
and see if one of the lofts you are interested in is at the show... Good luck! 
Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List  New (replacement) sails
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 10:25:49 -0400


Hi, The decision has been made - we are getting new sails. The ones we have are 
about 20 years old and even my admiral can see that they are quite blown 
(stretched). Now the questions start: what kind and where to buy. We are in 
Ottawa, so there is no local sail loft. Doyle Sail can accept local orders, but 
I don't expect that they would come to the boat to do the measurements. This 
opens things up a bit, because suddenly there is no difference between anyone 
local and buying the sails on-line (or is there?). Regarding where, I was 
thinking about Rolly Tasker, National Sails Supply, FX Sails (The Sails Store) 
and a few more. Do you have any recommendations (or horror stories)? Regarding 
what: - cruising sails (we don't race) - fairly light (I try not to overpower; 
we reef early or don't sail if it is really blowing (I don't think we sailed 
over 25 kt) and we need good sails for those days when it is hardly blowing at 
all). Is 6.5-7 oz Dacron good? too much, too little? - I would like to get 2nd 
reef on the main - any comments (worth it, not really)? - I am thinking about 
the 135% genoa; however, I find that what I have is a bit small ( I would have 
to check if it is really a 135% or is it smaller). I would not go to 150-155%; 
I don't think I would ever be able to trim it correctly and it would be too 
much to handle. But what about 140%? I could easily handle a sail with the foot 
a 1 ft longer. - some vendors offer a transparent window in the sail; others 
don't.  Any thoughts about that? Any other suggestions, ideas, things to think 
of? thanks Marek___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New (replacement) sails

[Stevan Plavsa]

I recently went through this with a new genoa. I went with Rolly Tasker and
have nothing but good things to say. I spoke directly with the GM (Mike) in
Thailand and he was easy to deal with. After shipping and brokerage at my
door the sail cost $1700. North Sails direct wanted $2500 before taxes for
the same thing. In either case, as you point out, I measured myself. I
didn't see any value-add going with North. I went with a 155%, I have no
trouble trimming the sail.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 11:27 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:

> Marek,
>
> I went through this last year.  I ended up at a local sail maker just for
> convenience of service.  They came to the boat to measure and to install
> for the first time.
>
> I know a lot of people are really happy with Rolly Tasker from my
> research.  the only negatives i found were people who didn't actually have
> their sails.  Those that did were generally happy through all the threads I
> read. ...And you could probably save about 30%  through them.
>
> I have no experience with them other than getting a quote and I have no
> connection to them.
>
> Keep in mind, it is boat show season and most lofts are offering discounts
> of about 15%.  Just call and say you met them at the show.  Newport is the
> weekend of the 14th and Annapolis is in October.  Just check the website
> and see if one of the lofts you are interested in is at the show...
>
> Good luck!
>
> Danny
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List  New (replacement) sails
> Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 10:25:49 -0400
>
> Hi,
>
> The decision has been made - we are getting new sails. The ones we have
> are about 20 years old and even my admiral can see that they are quite
> blown (stretched). Now the questions start: what kind and where to buy.
>
> We are in Ottawa, so there is no local sail loft. Doyle Sail can accept
> local orders, but I don't expect that they would come to the boat to do the
> measurements. This opens things up a bit, because suddenly there is no
> difference between anyone local and buying the sails on-line (or is there?).
>
> Regarding where, I was thinking about Rolly Tasker, National Sails
> Supply, FX Sails (The Sails Store) and a few more. Do you have any
> recommendations (or horror stories)?
>
> Regarding what:
>  - cruising sails (we don't race)
>  - fairly light (I try not to overpower; we reef early or don't sail if it
> is really blowing (I don't think we sailed over 25 kt) and we need good
> sails for those days when it is hardly blowing at all). Is 6.5-7 oz Dacron
> good? too much, too little?
>  - I would like to get 2nd reef on the main - any comments (worth it, not
> really)?
>  - I am thinking about the 135% genoa; however, I find that what I have is
> a bit small ( I would have to check if it is really a 135% or is it
> smaller). I would not go to 150-155%; I don't think I would ever be able to
> trim it correctly and it would be too much to handle. But what about 140%?
> I could easily handle a sail with the foot a 1 ft longer.
>  - some vendors offer a transparent window in the sail; others don't.  Any
> thoughts about that?
>
> Any other suggestions, ideas, things to think of?
>
> thanks
>
> Marek
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Josh Muckley]

$35 is an amazing price, especially in a warm climate where the growth is
guaranteed to be heavier.  I've heard of others in the Solomons area
getting a recurrent contract price of $100 per month for biweekly
cleanings.  Comes down to how often you think it needs done and how good
your paint is.

Josh
On Sep 3, 2013 10:18 AM, "Jack Brennan"  wrote:

>   $35 for a monthly cleaning on a 30-footer in St. Petersburg, Fl. I paid
> $45 in Pompano Beach, Fl.
>
> At those prices, there’s no way I would ever jump overboard and do it
> myself.
>
> Jack Brennan
> Former C&C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>
>  *From:* Josh Muckley 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 03, 2013 8:41 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft
>
>
> I just paid $100 for my 37+ (40') in Solomons.  That's about half of what
> a short haul was gonna cost.
>
> Josh
> On Sep 3, 2013 8:01 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" 
> wrote:
>
>> I have paid anyplace between $60 and $150, depending on who does it and
>> how dirty the boat is. I have my own gear too, but my wife is convinced
>> I'll get a  horrible disease from swimming in the marina. She only wants me
>> cleaning the boat up at the yacht club or some other semi-clean place. So
>> far the worst I have had is an ear infection from Weems Creek and barnacle
>> cuts that get infected. Please do NOT clean the bottom without gloves.
>> Those cuts always get red and take a long time to heal :(
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>> Coquina
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
>> Bushie
>> Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 9:38 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft
>>
>> Joe,
>> How much does a bottom cleaning run?
>> Rick
>> Anchovy
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>  --
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Jack Brennan]

Down here in Florida, you really need to have the bottom done every month, even 
after a haulout and repaint. The algae growth is amazing. (The Tampa Bay area 
bans the sale of fertilizer during the summer to protect against major blooms.)

So the divers concentrate on a volume business. They try to get a couple of 
dozen boats in one location – they often offer a deal at large marinas – then 
go right down the line and get them all done at once. On a monthly contract, a 
boat won’t accumulate that much growth, so it takes about 30 minutes on a 
30-foot boat.

I suspect you folks are partly paying for drive time. Plus, there are a million 
divers here who love to be in the water all of the time, so there is a good 
deal of competition.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.





From: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 12:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

$35 is an amazing price, especially in a warm climate where the growth is 
guaranteed to be heavier.  I've heard of others in the Solomons area getting a 
recurrent contract price of $100 per month for biweekly cleanings.  Comes down 
to how often you think it needs done and how good your paint is.

Josh

On Sep 3, 2013 10:18 AM, "Jack Brennan"  wrote:

  $35 for a monthly cleaning on a 30-footer in St. Petersburg, Fl. I paid $45 
in Pompano Beach, Fl.

  At those prices, there’s no way I would ever jump overboard and do it myself.

  Jack Brennan
  Former C&C 25
  Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
  Tierra Verde, Fl.

  From: Josh Muckley 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 8:41 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

  I just paid $100 for my 37+ (40') in Solomons.  That's about half of what a 
short haul was gonna cost.

  Josh

  On Sep 3, 2013 8:01 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

I have paid anyplace between $60 and $150, depending on who does it and how 
dirty the boat is. I have my own gear too, but my wife is convinced I'll get a  
horrible disease from swimming in the marina. She only wants me cleaning the 
boat up at the yacht club or some other semi-clean place. So far the worst I 
have had is an ear infection from Weems Creek and barnacle cuts that get 
infected. Please do NOT clean the bottom without gloves. Those cuts always get 
red and take a long time to heal :(

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Bushie
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 9:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

Joe,
How much does a bottom cleaning run?
Rick
Anchovy

Sent from my iPhone

___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
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--
  ___
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  CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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  CnC-List@cnc-list.com





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Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

[Colin Kilgour]

All these mods add up... which underscores a point I made in the past.  In
today's market conditions, it simply doesn't make sense to outfit a boat
that's not ocean or cruise ready.  It makes far more sense to buy a boat
that's 95% of the way there and then add the small mods that it is
missing.

As an example, I just did a quick (literally 2 minutes) search on YW and
came up with this Catalina Morgan CC 45 for under $100k.  It may not be
everyone's cup of tea, and it may not even be mine, but for under $100k
you've got an ocean capable boat, with a bunch of equipment on it, and a
nice master cabin, which was one of the things that Richard was looking for
when he started us down this road.

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1992/Catalina-Morgan-45-CC%2C-Center-Cockpit-2606839/Nanny-Cay/British-Virgin-Islands#.UiYWtT9IHAY

(Disclosure: strictly by coincidence, the listing broker is a good friend
of mine - but I have no interest one way or the other in this.  Just using
this listing to illustrate my point.  There are a million others like it)

Cheers,
Colin



On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 12:06 PM, Petar Horvatic  wrote:

> All good points, 
>
> Some key features I added in order of importance.
>
> ** **
>
> Inner forestay, and running backstays (2006)
>
> Magnafluxed the standing rigging, replaced headstay and assembled a
> riggers tackelbox with spares pins, washers, etc.
>
> Added Monitor Windvane, kitted Autohelm 4000 ST with all spares (2005)
>
> Re-bedded re-torqued keelbolts, (2004)
>
> Larger genoa track backplates 1/4”x2”, added backplates on all deck
> fittings (2006)
>
> Added Dodger, bimini (2005)
>
> Added JRC 1000 Radar (2006)
>
> Assemble good paper chart collection, bough Offshore navigator for the
> laptop, added GPSMAP 183 at the pedestal.  (2006)
>
> Added Rule 1500 GPH, and a second Rule 300 GPH on automatic float
> switches, manual pump was already there (2005)
>
> Icom M710, AT-130, pactor 3, HAM license for winlink, glassed in 100 sq
> feet or copper into the hull, replaced backstay + insulators (2005)
>
> Added Jiffy reefing, all lines led back to cockpit, added Jacklines, (2006)
> 
>
> Added 2 Kyocera Solar panels and Four winds II with regulators, (2005)
>
> Bought Sail rite ultrafeed LSZ sewing machine (2005)
>
> Built RO watermaker (2006)
>
> Installed Refrigeration + enough spares to build another one + lots of
> insulation (2004 rev 1, 2007 rev2)
>
> Re-wire the entire boat, add proper buss bars, grounding, ANL fuses, and
> fuse every branch carry 5-6 spare fuses of each type (2004)
>
> Added Link 10, xantrex smart regulator, high output alternator + spare,
> 1500W inverter (2004)
>
> Replaced all thru-hull fittings with marelon + ball valves (2003)
>
> Epoxy barrier coat, interlux 2000 (2004)
>
> Replaced atomic 4 with Westerbeke 4-108 (2011)
>
> ** **
>
> For cruising… considering that “Home is where you drop a hook”
>
> Airon 1500W windlass 3/8 BBB gipsy and 5/16” gipsy
>
> Spare tackle 100’ of 3/8” BBB spliced in another 100’ or rhode on a 35lbs
> CQR.
>
> Main tackle 275’ of 5/16” BBB on a 45lbs CQR.   
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C&C 38MkII
>
> Newport, RI
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Chuck
> S
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 01, 2013 1:31 PM
> *To:* Brent Driedger
> *Cc:* cnc-list CNC boat owners
> *Subject:* Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic
>
> ** **
>
> Brent,
> I think most C&Cs are built strong enough to make an Atlantic crossing,
> but I would prefer a heavier, stiffer vessel like a Swan for such a task.
> It made me ask the question: how would I prepare my present boat for such
> a challenge?
>
> Here's a short list to start:
> Rehead all rod ends
> Add EPIRB, AIS, backup AutoHelm
> Add Storm sails
> Add sprit and rollgen for light winds
> Add Dodger
> Install backing plates to all lifeline stanchions.
> Fabricate boards to cover the side windows should any be damaged, stow
> below.
> Fabricate an emergency rudder.
> Investigate drogues or sea anchors
> Investigate desalinators
> Consider a generator or water turbine generator
>
> Time of year is crucial;  I'd probably prefer to do it between June and
> July, before hurricane season
>
> Work;  who can afford to take off that much time?  Are we sailing the boat
> back?  Right away?  Storage cost, slip fees in Europe?
> Might it be easier to buy a boat in Europe and sail her home?
>
> Chuck
> *Resolute*
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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CnC-Li

Re: Stus-List New (replacement) sails

[Joel Aronson]

Marek,

I'm very happy with my Rolly Tasker genoa (through National Sail Supply).
 Yes to 2 reef points. Also, get at least 2 full battens.  The main will
last longer.  I forget the size of your boat.  Under 30 feet I would think
7 oz cloth would be fine.  Don't forget to show you are proud to own a C&C
- get the logo!

I find windows are never in the right place.  Heel too much and all you see
is water.  A small window for the telltales is useful.

My $.02

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 10:33 AM, Jerome Tauber  wrote:

> What is the boat?  I find North Direct to be a good value for the type of
> sails you are describing.  Also check to see if North One Design has sails
> for your model.   They are reasonably priced and performance oriented
> Dacron.
> Jerome Tauber, C&C27-5 , Montauk NY.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 3, 2013, at 10:25 AM, "Marek Dziedzic" 
> wrote:
>
>  Hi,
>
> The decision has been made - we are getting new sails. The ones we have
> are about 20 years old and even my admiral can see that they are quite
> blown (stretched). Now the questions start: what kind and where to buy.
>
> We are in Ottawa, so there is no local sail loft. Doyle Sail can accept
> local orders, but I don't expect that they would come to the boat to do the
> measurements. This opens things up a bit, because suddenly there is no
> difference between anyone local and buying the sails on-line (or is there?).
>
> Regarding where, I was thinking about Rolly Tasker, National Sails
> Supply, FX Sails (The Sails Store) and a few more. Do you have any
> recommendations (or horror stories)?
>
> Regarding what:
>  - cruising sails (we don't race)
>  - fairly light (I try not to overpower; we reef early or don't sail if it
> is really blowing (I don't think we sailed over 25 kt) and we need good
> sails for those days when it is hardly blowing at all). Is 6.5-7 oz Dacron
> good? too much, too little?
>  - I would like to get 2nd reef on the main - any comments (worth it, not
> really)?
>  - I am thinking about the 135% genoa; however, I find that what I have is
> a bit small ( I would have to check if it is really a 135% or is it
> smaller). I would not go to 150-155%; I don't think I would ever be able to
> trim it correctly and it would be too much to handle. But what about 140%?
> I could easily handle a sail with the foot a 1 ft longer.
>  - some vendors offer a transparent window in the sail; others don't.  Any
> thoughts about that?
>
> Any other suggestions, ideas, things to think of?
>
> thanks
>
> Marek
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Gary Nylander]

Our boatyard already has the system in place and does not allow diving. Thus, 
the bi-weekly trip up the river to a friend's house where the diver does both 
of our boats.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Aronson 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 1:01 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft


  There are new restrictions going into place for Maryland in 2015.  The state 
will require boat yards that powerwash to install water recovery and filtration 
systems:
  
http://www.capitalgazette.com/news/environment/maryland-marinas-slow-to-adhere-to-discharge-regulations/article_537be9b9-e493-5d58-b84f-6b9398effaef.html



  Also, many divers will not clean bottoms with ablative paint.


  The cheapest rate for diving or a short haul and wash I have found in 
Annapolis is $4/foot.  


  Joel
  35/3
  Annapolis







  On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 12:43 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

$35 is an amazing price, especially in a warm climate where the growth is 
guaranteed to be heavier.  I've heard of others in the Solomons area getting a 
recurrent contract price of $100 per month for biweekly cleanings.  Comes down 
to how often you think it needs done and how good your paint is.

Josh

On Sep 3, 2013 10:18 AM, "Jack Brennan"  wrote:

  $35 for a monthly cleaning on a 30-footer in St. Petersburg, Fl. I paid 
$45 in Pompano Beach, Fl.

  At those prices, there’s no way I would ever jump overboard and do it 
myself.

  Jack Brennan
  Former C&C 25
  Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
  Tierra Verde, Fl.

  From: Josh Muckley 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 8:41 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

  I just paid $100 for my 37+ (40') in Solomons.  That's about half of what 
a short haul was gonna cost.

  Josh

  On Sep 3, 2013 8:01 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  
wrote:

I have paid anyplace between $60 and $150, depending on who does it and 
how dirty the boat is. I have my own gear too, but my wife is convinced I'll 
get a  horrible disease from swimming in the marina. She only wants me cleaning 
the boat up at the yacht club or some other semi-clean place. So far the worst 
I have had is an ear infection from Weems Creek and barnacle cuts that get 
infected. Please do NOT clean the bottom without gloves. Those cuts always get 
red and take a long time to heal :(

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Bushie
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 9:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

Joe,
How much does a bottom cleaning run?
Rick
Anchovy

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Gary Nylander]

We have an agreement for bi-weekly cleanings at $45 each on our 30-1.
Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Josh Muckley 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 12:43 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft


  $35 is an amazing price, especially in a warm climate where the growth is 
guaranteed to be heavier.  I've heard of others in the Solomons area getting a 
recurrent contract price of $100 per month for biweekly cleanings.  Comes down 
to how often you think it needs done and how good your paint is.

  Josh

  On Sep 3, 2013 10:18 AM, "Jack Brennan"  wrote:

$35 for a monthly cleaning on a 30-footer in St. Petersburg, Fl. I paid $45 
in Pompano Beach, Fl.

At those prices, there’s no way I would ever jump overboard and do it 
myself.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 8:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

I just paid $100 for my 37+ (40') in Solomons.  That's about half of what a 
short haul was gonna cost.

Josh

On Sep 3, 2013 8:01 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

  I have paid anyplace between $60 and $150, depending on who does it and 
how dirty the boat is. I have my own gear too, but my wife is convinced I'll 
get a  horrible disease from swimming in the marina. She only wants me cleaning 
the boat up at the yacht club or some other semi-clean place. So far the worst 
I have had is an ear infection from Weems Creek and barnacle cuts that get 
infected. Please do NOT clean the bottom without gloves. Those cuts always get 
red and take a long time to heal :(

  Joe Della Barba
  Coquina
  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Bushie
  Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 9:38 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

  Joe,
  How much does a bottom cleaning run?
  Rick
  Anchovy

  Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Joel Aronson]

There are new restrictions going into place for Maryland in 2015.  The
state will require boat yards that powerwash to install water recovery and
filtration systems:
http://www.capitalgazette.com/news/environment/maryland-marinas-slow-to-adhere-to-discharge-regulations/article_537be9b9-e493-5d58-b84f-6b9398effaef.html

Also, many divers will not clean bottoms with ablative paint.

The cheapest rate for diving or a short haul and wash I have found in
Annapolis is $4/foot.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis




On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 12:43 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> $35 is an amazing price, especially in a warm climate where the growth is
> guaranteed to be heavier.  I've heard of others in the Solomons area
> getting a recurrent contract price of $100 per month for biweekly
> cleanings.  Comes down to how often you think it needs done and how good
> your paint is.
>
> Josh
> On Sep 3, 2013 10:18 AM, "Jack Brennan"  wrote:
>
>>   $35 for a monthly cleaning on a 30-footer in St. Petersburg, Fl. I
>> paid $45 in Pompano Beach, Fl.
>>
>> At those prices, there’s no way I would ever jump overboard and do it
>> myself.
>>
>> Jack Brennan
>> Former C&C 25
>> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
>> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>>
>>  *From:* Josh Muckley 
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 03, 2013 8:41 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft
>>
>>
>> I just paid $100 for my 37+ (40') in Solomons.  That's about half of what
>> a short haul was gonna cost.
>>
>> Josh
>> On Sep 3, 2013 8:01 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I have paid anyplace between $60 and $150, depending on who does it and
>>> how dirty the boat is. I have my own gear too, but my wife is convinced
>>> I'll get a  horrible disease from swimming in the marina. She only wants me
>>> cleaning the boat up at the yacht club or some other semi-clean place. So
>>> far the worst I have had is an ear infection from Weems Creek and barnacle
>>> cuts that get infected. Please do NOT clean the bottom without gloves.
>>> Those cuts always get red and take a long time to heal :(
>>>
>>> Joe Della Barba
>>> Coquina
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
>>> Bushie
>>> Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 9:38 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft
>>>
>>> Joe,
>>> How much does a bottom cleaning run?
>>> Rick
>>> Anchovy
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
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>


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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Knowles Rich]

Fred! Bad!

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-09-03, at 11:59, Frederick G Street  wrote:

I'm kinda surprised the spam filters didn't catch this message…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 2, 2013, at 3:08 PM, Joe Della Barba  wrote:

> I had a diver give me a scrub before Labor Day. He said the good news was my 
> shaft was spotless. The bad news was the reason – the zinc was loose and 
> evidently every forward-reverse shift slid it back and forth and scrubbed all 
> the growth off!

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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Della Barba, Joe]

If I could get $35 cleanings my bottom paint would likely be about 10 years old 
by now!

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack Brennan
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 8:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

$35 for a monthly cleaning on a 30-footer in St. Petersburg, Fl. I paid $45 in 
Pompano Beach, Fl.

At those prices, there’s no way I would ever jump overboard and do it myself.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Josh Muckley
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 8:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft


I just paid $100 for my 37+ (40') in Solomons.  That's about half of what a 
short haul was gonna cost.

Josh
On Sep 3, 2013 8:01 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>> wrote:
I have paid anyplace between $60 and $150, depending on who does it and how 
dirty the boat is. I have my own gear too, but my wife is convinced I'll get a  
horrible disease from swimming in the marina. She only wants me cleaning the 
boat up at the yacht club or some other semi-clean place. So far the worst I 
have had is an ear infection from Weems Creek and barnacle cuts that get 
infected. Please do NOT clean the bottom without gloves. Those cuts always get 
red and take a long time to heal :(

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Rick Bushie
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 9:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

Joe,
How much does a bottom cleaning run?
Rick
Anchovy

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Della Barba, Joe]

A bottom scrub with a happy ending?

NTTIAWWT ;)

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 10:59 AM
To: j...@dellabarba.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

I'm kinda surprised the spam filters didn't catch this message...   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 2, 2013, at 3:08 PM, Joe Della Barba 
mailto:j...@dellabarba.com>> wrote:


I had a diver give me a scrub before Labor Day. He said the good news was my 
shaft was spotless. The bad news was the reason - the zinc was loose and 
evidently every forward-reverse shift slid it back and forth and scrubbed all 
the growth off!

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Stus-List water tank capacity 36-foot

[Richard Walter]

Greetings,

Our 1978 36-footer has a hard plastic water tank mounted under the starboard 
settee, It extends from the nav. station through 2/3 of the settee. Any idea 
what the capacity may be?  We also have a soft tank that empties to the hot 
water heater/shower/head sink.

Have others increased their water carrying capacity and if so, how?

Thank you,
Richard
s/v INDIGO
1978 36-foot
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Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

[Petar Horvatic]

All good points, 

Some key features I added in order of importance.

 

Inner forestay, and running backstays (2006)

Magnafluxed the standing rigging, replaced headstay and assembled a riggers 
tackelbox with spares pins, washers, etc.

Added Monitor Windvane, kitted Autohelm 4000 ST with all spares (2005)

Re-bedded re-torqued keelbolts, (2004)

Larger genoa track backplates 1/4”x2”, added backplates on all deck fittings 
(2006)

Added Dodger, bimini (2005)

Added JRC 1000 Radar (2006)

Assemble good paper chart collection, bough Offshore navigator for the laptop, 
added GPSMAP 183 at the pedestal.  (2006)

Added Rule 1500 GPH, and a second Rule 300 GPH on automatic float switches, 
manual pump was already there (2005)

Icom M710, AT-130, pactor 3, HAM license for winlink, glassed in 100 sq feet or 
copper into the hull, replaced backstay + insulators (2005)

Added Jiffy reefing, all lines led back to cockpit, added Jacklines, (2006)

Added 2 Kyocera Solar panels and Four winds II with regulators, (2005)

Bought Sail rite ultrafeed LSZ sewing machine (2005)

Built RO watermaker (2006)

Installed Refrigeration + enough spares to build another one + lots of 
insulation (2004 rev 1, 2007 rev2)

Re-wire the entire boat, add proper buss bars, grounding, ANL fuses, and fuse 
every branch carry 5-6 spare fuses of each type (2004)

Added Link 10, xantrex smart regulator, high output alternator + spare, 1500W 
inverter (2004)

Replaced all thru-hull fittings with marelon + ball valves (2003)

Epoxy barrier coat, interlux 2000 (2004)

Replaced atomic 4 with Westerbeke 4-108 (2011)

 

For cruising… considering that “Home is where you drop a hook”

Airon 1500W windlass 3/8 BBB gipsy and 5/16” gipsy

Spare tackle 100’ of 3/8” BBB spliced in another 100’ or rhode on a 35lbs CQR.

Main tackle 275’ of 5/16” BBB on a 45lbs CQR.   

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2013 1:31 PM
To: Brent Driedger
Cc: cnc-list CNC boat owners
Subject: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

 

Brent,
I think most C&Cs are built strong enough to make an Atlantic crossing, but I 
would prefer a heavier, stiffer vessel like a Swan for such a task.
It made me ask the question: how would I prepare my present boat for such a 
challenge?

Here's a short list to start:
Rehead all rod ends
Add EPIRB, AIS, backup AutoHelm
Add Storm sails
Add sprit and rollgen for light winds
Add Dodger
Install backing plates to all lifeline stanchions.
Fabricate boards to cover the side windows should any be damaged, stow below.
Fabricate an emergency rudder.
Investigate drogues or sea anchors
Investigate desalinators
Consider a generator or water turbine generator

Time of year is crucial;  I'd probably prefer to do it between June and July, 
before hurricane season

Work;  who can afford to take off that much time?  Are we sailing the boat 
back?  Right away?  Storage cost, slip fees in Europe?
Might it be easier to buy a boat in Europe and sail her home?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

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Re: Stus-List New (replacement) sails

[Neil Gallagher]

I bought a Tasker cruising genoa this spring, 145%,  7-oz dacron, with 
foam luff, sunbrella leech/foot; with shipping total was $2200


For a cruising sail it's decent quality,  the finishing work is pretty 
good, my only issue the foot was cut a bit higher than I'd like, but it 
was half the price of a local loft's dacron equivalent.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 9/3/2013 11:27 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:

Marek,
I went through this last year.  I ended up at a local sail maker just 
for convenience of service.  They came to the boat to measure and to 
install for the first time.
I know a lot of people are really happy with Rolly Tasker from my 
research.  the only negatives i found were people who didn't actually 
have their sails.  Those that did were generally happy through all the 
threads I read. ...And you could probably save about 30%  through them.
I have no experience with them other than getting a quote and I have 
no connection to them.
Keep in mind, it is boat show season and most lofts are offering 
discounts of about 15%.  Just call and say you met them at the show. 
 Newport is the weekend of the 14th and Annapolis is in October.  Just 
check the website and see if one of the lofts you are interested in is 
at the show...

Good luck!
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List  New (replacement) sails
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 10:25:49 -0400

Hi,
The decision has been made - we are getting new sails. The ones we 
have are about 20 years old and even my admiral can see that they are 
quite blown (stretched). Now the questions start: what kind and where 
to buy.
We are in Ottawa, so there is no local sail loft. Doyle Sail can 
accept local orders, but I don't expect that they would come to the 
boat to do the measurements. This opens things up a bit, because 
suddenly there is no difference between anyone local and buying the 
sails on-line (or is there?).
Regarding where, I was thinking about Rolly Tasker, National Sails 
Supply, FX Sails (The Sails Store) and a few more. Do you have any 
recommendations (or horror stories)?

Regarding what:
 - cruising sails (we don't race)
 - fairly light (I try not to overpower; we reef early or don't sail 
if it is really blowing (I don't think we sailed over 25 kt) and we 
need good sails for those days when it is hardly blowing at all). Is 
6.5-7 oz Dacron good? too much, too little?
 - I would like to get 2nd reef on the main - any comments (worth it, 
not really)?
 - I am thinking about the 135% genoa; however, I find that what I 
have is a bit small ( I would have to check if it is really a 135% or 
is it smaller). I would not go to 150-155%; I don't think I would ever 
be able to trim it correctly and it would be too much to handle. But 
what about 140%? I could easily handle a sail with the foot a 1 ft longer.
 - some vendors offer a transparent window in the sail; others don't.  
Any thoughts about that?

Any other suggestions, ideas, things to think of?
thanks
Marek


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Re: Stus-List C&C smile - wet keel bolts

[Steve Thomas]

   A few thoughts on keel bolts:

   Most boats do get a bit of water in the bilge.

   Most of the stories I've read about actual stainless failures due to crevice 
corrosion, and especially as it applies to wire
rigging in swaged terminals, have involved boats that sail in salt water. I 
don't know if the salt water is the only factor, or if
my perception is because these boat owners are more likely to publish their 
problems, but there does seem to be a tendency. Maybe
it is more the southern boats I don't know, but I do know that the rigging on a 
Great Lakes boat is usually in better condition
than the ones you see down south of the same vintage. I wouldn't worry too much 
about your keel bolts unless you start seeing
brown stains. Ask around. There are lots of sailing clubs and marinas where you 
live. My bet is that you will be hard pressed to
find even one person who has had actual experience with corrosion on stainless 
keel boats on a fresh water only boat that was not
hard grounded. I have not heard of such a failure, but it seems reasonable that 
it could happen Once a crack starts, all bets are
off.

   I have witnessed several failures of shroud tangs on fractional rigged boats 
on Lake Erie. I saw the fractured bits from one,
and it appeared to have had a small crack at one end, with a small amount of 
corrosion before the rest of it let go. That said,
the crack in these cases in all likelihood started as a stress crack from being 
over loaded and flexed. Where the tangs break is
not where water would tend to accumulate. I can't imagine that the keel bolts 
on our boats are going to flex as much as a rigging
terminal unless the boat fetches up on a good sized rock.

   With the boat blocked up for the winter one could remove and replace each 
keel nut in succession I suppose, but you still
wouldn't know for sure that there was not a crack in the part you can't get at 
that way.

   Personally, I am reluctant to move heavily loaded stainless on stainless 
threads any more than necessary for fear of galling. A
friend of mine has a shop build stainless steel steamer for setting the dye on 
nylon cloth. When built it had fine threaded
stainless nuts to clamp it shut, same idea as a window hatch. They jammed up so 
solid that they had to be cut off.

   Hardly seems worth dropping the keel without a darned good reason to be 
suspicious in the first place, but that would be the
only way to do a thorough check. Even then you would just have to assume that 
the part cast into the lead was ok.

My 2 cents,

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 9:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C smile - wet keel bolts


Count me among those with water constantly in the bilge. The past two winters 
with the boat out of the water there has been no
evidence of a smile but I have been concerned with the bilge and it always 
having water in it. Keel stepped, when it rains, water
in the bilge. Aside from that any condensation in the boat, the stuffing box 
(which needs repacking), etc, and I have water in the
bilge, all the time.


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 8:44 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:

  John and others

  In the reply below you reference the problems from wet stainless in
  oxygen deprived environment.  I have heard this comment several times
  before also.

  I am not aware of a large nimber of sailboats that do not have some
  water in th bilge most if not all the time.  Since this is where the
  kell bolts are torgued with the nuts it seem that this would count as
  wet and oxygen deprived.  Am I missing something or are we all in
  imminent danger?

  Mike

  Nut Case


  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
  and Maryann Read
  Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 5:56 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C smile

  Hi Bill

  If your keelboats are leaking, then your smile has progressed to the
  point
  of more than stuffing in some bondo and the need for some redoing the
  keel /
  sump seal itself to prevent leaks.  Remember that the keel bolts are
  stainless which will degrade when wet in an oxygen deprived environment
  which is what happens when the keel / sump seal is compromised.  A good
  starting place would be get the opinion of your local fiberglass repair
  shop.  I believe this subject is also well covered in the archives of
  this
  list as well as the DIY section of the photoalbum.

  To be absolutely sure, the preferred process at haul out would be to 1)
  lower the keel, 2)  clean, fair and prep the mating surfaces, 3)
  reattach
  the keel with a preferred adhesive / sealant, 4)  properly torque the
  keel
  bolts, 5) grind and fair both sides of the joint by at least a foot, 6)
  apply fiberglass as a fairing, 7)  fair the fiberglass, 8

Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Frederick G Street]

I'm kinda surprised the spam filters didn't catch this message…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 2, 2013, at 3:08 PM, Joe Della Barba  wrote:

> I had a diver give me a scrub before Labor Day. He said the good news was my 
> shaft was spotless. The bad news was the reason – the zinc was loose and 
> evidently every forward-reverse shift slid it back and forth and scrubbed all 
> the growth off!

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Re: Stus-List New (replacement) sails

[Knowles Rich]

Marek:  there will doubtless be lots of commentary from the list, but I suggest 
talking to some local sailors perhaps at NYC and get their opinions. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-09-03, at 11:25, "Marek Dziedzic"  wrote:

Hi,
 
The decision has been made - we are getting new sails. The ones we have are 
about 20 years old and even my admiral can see that they are quite blown 
(stretched). Now the questions start: what kind and where to buy.
 
We are in Ottawa, so there is no local sail loft. Doyle Sail can accept local 
orders, but I don't expect that they would come to the  boat to do the 
measurements. This opens things up a bit, because suddenly there is no 
difference between anyone local and buying the sails on-line (or is there?).
 
Regarding where, I was thinking about Rolly Tasker, National Sails Supply, FX 
Sails (The Sails Store) and a few more. Do you have any recommendations (or 
horror stories)?
 
Regarding what:
 - cruising sails (we don't race)
 - fairly light (I try not to overpower; we reef early or don't sail if it is 
really blowing (I don't think we sailed over 25 kt) and we need good sails for 
those days when it is hardly blowing at all). Is 6.5-7 oz Dacron good? too 
much, too little?
 - I would like to get 2nd reef on the main - any comments (worth it, not 
really)?
 - I am thinking about the 135% genoa; however, I find that what I have is a 
bit small ( I would have to check if it is really a 135% or is it smaller). I 
would not go to 150-155%; I don't think I would ever be able to trim it 
correctly and it would be too much to handle. But what about 140%? I could 
easily handle a sail with the foot a 1 ft longer.
 - some vendors offer a transparent window in the sail; others don't.  Any 
thoughts about that?
 
Any other suggestions, ideas, things to think of?
 
thanks
 
Marek
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Re: Stus-List New (replacement) sails

[Jerome Tauber]

What is the boat?  I find North Direct to be a good value for the type of sails 
you are describing.  Also check to see if North One Design has sails for your 
model.   They are reasonably priced and performance oriented Dacron.  
Jerome Tauber, C&C27-5 , Montauk NY.  

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 3, 2013, at 10:25 AM, "Marek Dziedzic"  wrote:

> Hi,
>  
> The decision has been made - we are getting new sails. The ones we have are 
> about 20 years old and even my admiral can see that they are quite blown 
> (stretched). Now the questions start: what kind and where to buy.
>  
> We are in Ottawa, so there is no local sail loft. Doyle Sail can accept local 
> orders, but I don't expect that they would come to the boat to do the 
> measurements. This opens things up a bit, because suddenly there is no 
> difference between anyone local and buying the sails on-line (or is there?).
>  
> Regarding where, I was thinking about Rolly Tasker, National Sails Supply, FX 
> Sails (The Sails Store) and a few more. Do you have any recommendations (or 
> horror stories)?
>  
> Regarding what:
>  - cruising sails (we don't race)
>  - fairly light (I try not to overpower; we reef early or don't sail if it is 
> really blowing (I don't think we sailed over 25 kt) and we need good sails 
> for those days when it is hardly blowing at all). Is 6.5-7 oz Dacron good? 
> too much, too little?
>  - I would like to get 2nd reef on the main - any comments (worth it, not 
> really)?
>  - I am thinking about the 135% genoa; however, I find that what I have is a 
> bit small ( I would have to check if it is really a 135% or is it smaller). I 
> would not go to 150-155%; I don't think I would ever be able to trim it 
> correctly and it would be too much to handle. But what about 140%? I could 
> easily handle a sail with the foot a 1 ft longer.
>  - some vendors offer a transparent window in the sail; others don't.  Any 
> thoughts about that?
>  
> Any other suggestions, ideas, things to think of?
>  
> thanks
>  
> Marek
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic

[Gary Nylander]

Read the book "Berserk" - a story of three crazies who took a 27 foot sailboat 
with outboard from Chile to Antarctica (and back). Not for the faint of heart.

Gary 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Knowles Rich 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2013 3:58 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List How would you prepare a C&C to cross the Atlantic


  I wonder what Joshua Slocum would make of this conversation? He managed with 
very little. I've lived in St. John's and Halifax for the last 27 years and 
have seen scores of small boats from 8 to 40 feet head off to Europe and other 
distant ports in various states of repair and equipment. A very few had to be 
rescued, some turned back and most made it just fine, thank you. One guy I met 
in St. John's harbour had a 28 foot boat equipped with a school atlas, a 
compass and his Timex watch. He'd started in England and visited Africa, 
Brazil, the BVI, Bermuda and Boston by the time I ran into him on the 
waterfront. I gave him dinner and a shower and off he went home to England. 
Last I heard I heard of him. I presume he got there. 


  I'm sure whatever the chap with the C&C 34 does, he'll meet the challenges as 
they arrive and have some great stories to tell.


  Nothing goes to weather like a 747. 


  Rich Knowles
  Indigo. LF38
  Halifax

  On 2013-09-01, at 14:30, Chuck S  wrote:


  Brent,
  I think most C&Cs are built strong enough to make an Atlantic crossing, but I 
would prefer a heavier, stiffer vessel like a Swan for such a task.
  It made me ask the question: how would I prepare my present boat for such a 
challenge?

  Here's a short list to start:
  Rehead all rod ends
  Add EPIRB, AIS, backup AutoHelm
  Add Storm sails
  Add sprit and rollgen for light winds
  Add Dodger
  Install backing plates to all lifeline stanchions.
  Fabricate boards to cover the side windows should any be damaged, stow below.
  Fabricate an emergency rudder.
  Investigate drogues or sea anchors
  Investigate desalinators
  Consider a generator or water turbine generator

  Time of year is crucial;  I'd probably prefer to do it between June and July, 
before hurricane season

  Work;  who can afford to take off that much time?  Are we sailing the boat 
back?  Right away?  Storage cost, slip fees in Europe?
  Might it be easier to buy a boat in Europe and sail her home?


  Chuck
  Resolute
  1990 C&C 34R
  Atlantic City, NJ

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--


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Stus-List New (replacement) sails

[Marek Dziedzic]

Hi,

The decision has been made - we are getting new sails. The ones we have are 
about 20 years old and even my admiral can see that they are quite blown 
(stretched). Now the questions start: what kind and where to buy.

We are in Ottawa, so there is no local sail loft. Doyle Sail can accept local 
orders, but I don't expect that they would come to the boat to do the 
measurements. This opens things up a bit, because suddenly there is no 
difference between anyone local and buying the sails on-line (or is there?).

Regarding where, I was thinking about Rolly Tasker, National Sails Supply, FX 
Sails (The Sails Store) and a few more. Do you have any recommendations (or 
horror stories)?

Regarding what:
 - cruising sails (we don't race)
 - fairly light (I try not to overpower; we reef early or don't sail if it is 
really blowing (I don't think we sailed over 25 kt) and we need good sails for 
those days when it is hardly blowing at all). Is 6.5-7 oz Dacron good? too 
much, too little?
 - I would like to get 2nd reef on the main - any comments (worth it, not 
really)?
 - I am thinking about the 135% genoa; however, I find that what I have is a 
bit small ( I would have to check if it is really a 135% or is it smaller). I 
would not go to 150-155%; I don't think I would ever be able to trim it 
correctly and it would be too much to handle. But what about 140%? I could 
easily handle a sail with the foot a 1 ft longer.
 - some vendors offer a transparent window in the sail; others don't.  Any 
thoughts about that?

Any other suggestions, ideas, things to think of?

thanks

Marek___
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Stus-List Subject: Rendezvous on Block Island

[Robert Gallagher]

Block island has some fantastic biking. A mountain or hybrid is better
because you can acces the dirt roads that lead to some scenic spots.
However, street bikes will still afford you a full day+ of great riding and
fantastic scenery.  The roads are good, but you ARE in the State of Rhode
Island (famous for shite roads). :)

Rob Gallagher
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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Jack Brennan]

$35 for a monthly cleaning on a 30-footer in St. Petersburg, Fl. I paid $45 in 
Pompano Beach, Fl.

At those prices, there’s no way I would ever jump overboard and do it myself.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 8:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

I just paid $100 for my 37+ (40') in Solomons.  That's about half of what a 
short haul was gonna cost.

Josh

On Sep 3, 2013 8:01 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

  I have paid anyplace between $60 and $150, depending on who does it and how 
dirty the boat is. I have my own gear too, but my wife is convinced I'll get a  
horrible disease from swimming in the marina. She only wants me cleaning the 
boat up at the yacht club or some other semi-clean place. So far the worst I 
have had is an ear infection from Weems Creek and barnacle cuts that get 
infected. Please do NOT clean the bottom without gloves. Those cuts always get 
red and take a long time to heal :(

  Joe Della Barba
  Coquina
  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Bushie
  Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 9:38 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

  Joe,
  How much does a bottom cleaning run?
  Rick
  Anchovy

  Sent from my iPhone

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  CnC-List@cnc-list.com




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Re: Stus-List C&C smile - wet keel bolts

[William Hall]

The water you can see in the keel sump is not oxygen deprived. It's in
contact with the atmosphere and absorbs oxygen. My understanding is that if
water is trapped inside, say, the rudder or somewhere in contact with the
keel bolts, where no air can get to it, then that can cause the stainless
to corrode.


On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 8:44 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:

> John and others
>
> In the reply below you reference the problems from wet stainless in
> oxygen deprived environment.  I have heard this comment several times
> before also.
>
> I am not aware of a large nimber of sailboats that do not have some
> water in th bilge most if not all the time.  Since this is where the
> kell bolts are torgued with the nuts it seem that this would count as
> wet and oxygen deprived.  Am I missing something or are we all in
> imminent danger?
>
> Mike
>
> Nut Case
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
> and Maryann Read
> Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 5:56 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C smile
>
> Hi Bill
>
> If your keelboats are leaking, then your smile has progressed to the
> point
> of more than stuffing in some bondo and the need for some redoing the
> keel /
> sump seal itself to prevent leaks.  Remember that the keel bolts are
> stainless which will degrade when wet in an oxygen deprived environment
> which is what happens when the keel / sump seal is compromised.  A good
> starting place would be get the opinion of your local fiberglass repair
> shop.  I believe this subject is also well covered in the archives of
> this
> list as well as the DIY section of the photoalbum.
>
> To be absolutely sure, the preferred process at haul out would be to 1)
> lower the keel, 2)  clean, fair and prep the mating surfaces, 3)
> reattach
> the keel with a preferred adhesive / sealant, 4)  properly torque the
> keel
> bolts, 5) grind and fair both sides of the joint by at least a foot, 6)
> apply fiberglass as a fairing, 7)  fair the fiberglass, 8)  apply
> several
> coats of barrier coat then bottom paint.
>
> If this is too much, then you can try digging out all bondo and as best
> you
> can expose the joint as deeply as possible.  Clean it to provide a good
> sealing surface.  Stuff in your sealant, then proceed at step 4.
>
> Fiberglass tape provides negligible structural integrity.  The keel
> bolts
> and adhesive at the sump / keel joint do that.  The tape is to fair the
> joint.  If there is insufficient structural integrity, the keel will
> flex
> and break the tape bond.
>
> Hope this helps
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> Connon
> Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 1:26 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List C&C smile
>
> I've been fixing the smile with Bondo over the past few years. This
> season
> I've noticed that I'm getting some sea water into the bilge ( along with
> rainwater that comes down the mast ). On haulout this year I'm planning
> on
> making a more permanent fix. Has anybody used G-Flex epoxy for this
> project?
> I plan on using thickened epoxy to fill the gap and then use wetted out
> fibreglass tape to strengthen the joint.
> Comments, ideas and suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Bill
> Caprice 1
> 1978 C&C 36
>
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>



-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List C&C smile

[Bill Bina]

Just as in fixing a crack in a plaster wall at home, using only a filler 
in the crack itself will never be anything but a temporay solution. The 
crack has to be bridged with a patch that spans an area substantially 
larger than the crack. Ten or so years ago, I got tired of revisiting 
the same issue every spring. I gouged out all the crumbly filler using a 
coarse wire wheel in a drill. I torqued the keelbolts using a very large 
torque wrench. Then I filled the void with epoxy thickend with fibers. 
That was followed by an epoxy/fiberglass wrap that extended about 10 
inches above to 10 inches below the crack. Two layers of that. Then I 
filled and faired the keel, applied barrier coats and bottom paint. No 
trace of a smile since then, and I've dragged my keel through the bottom 
more than a few times on the way in and out of some favorite anchorages.


Bill BIna


On 9/3/2013 8:50 AM, Hoyt, Mike wrote:

Bill

I have used G-Flex the past number of years.  Prior to that I used 3M
Premium Marine filler (the blue stuff).  G-Flex is marginally better.
The problem is not so much the smile as the fact that some keels move a
bit.  On previous boat - George Hinterhoeller designed and build Niagara
26 it was almost identical to C&C boats that George built with the
"smile" etc.  I was having water come in one year and that was because
the nuts needed to be torqued.  I did this in the water and that stopped
the leak and then in the off season I dropped the keel 2 inches (lifted
front of hull), cleaned the joint, rebedded with 3M 5200 and retorqued.
Never leaked again.

Even afetr rebedding the keel the "smile" came back at least every
second year abd usually every year.  Current boat is J-27 and has the
same "smile" issue from keel flexing.  I used G-Flex with limited
success - now only the forward 1/2 to 1/3 of the joint needs refairing
every year.  Last off season based on advice of others on this forum I
ground out the joint a bit and used 6 oz cloth with West 105 epoxy and
fast hardener and faired over that with Gflex thickened with West 407.
This past summer have hit a lot of nasty square waves so will be
interesting to see how the joint made out when we haul boat next weekend

Mike




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Re: Stus-List C&C smile

[Knowles Rich]

I had sea water in the bilge and checked the keel bolts. They needed 
tightening. I undid each one and put a rubber "0" ring under each backing plate 
before installing the nut and torquing. No more leaks. I'll do the one under 
the mast this fall when/if I pull the mast. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-09-03, at 9:50, "Hoyt, Mike"  wrote:

Bill

I have used G-Flex the past number of years.  Prior to that I used 3M
Premium Marine filler (the blue stuff).  G-Flex is marginally better.
The problem is not so much the smile as the fact that some keels move a
bit.  On previous boat - George Hinterhoeller designed and build Niagara
26 it was almost identical to C&C boats that George built with the
"smile" etc.  I was having water come in one year and that was because
the nuts needed to be torqued.  I did this in the water and that stopped
the leak and then in the off season I dropped the keel 2 inches (lifted
front of hull), cleaned the joint, rebedded with 3M 5200 and retorqued.
Never leaked again.

Even afetr rebedding the keel the "smile" came back at least every
second year abd usually every year.  Current boat is J-27 and has the
same "smile" issue from keel flexing.  I used G-Flex with limited
success - now only the forward 1/2 to 1/3 of the joint needs refairing
every year.  Last off season based on advice of others on this forum I
ground out the joint a bit and used 6 oz cloth with West 105 epoxy and
fast hardener and faired over that with Gflex thickened with West 407.
This past summer have hit a lot of nasty square waves so will be
interesting to see how the joint made out when we haul boat next weekend

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Connon
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 2:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C smile

I've been fixing the smile with Bondo over the past few years. This 
season I've noticed that I'm getting some sea water into the bilge ( 
along with rainwater that comes down the mast ). On haulout this year 
I'm planning on making a more permanent fix. Has anybody used G-Flex 
epoxy for this project? I plan on using thickened epoxy to fill the gap 
and then use wetted out fibreglass tape to strengthen the joint. 
Comments, ideas and suggestions would be appreciated.

Bill
Caprice 1
1978 C&C 36

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Re: Stus-List C&C smile - wet keel bolts

[Stevan Plavsa]

Count me among those with water constantly in the bilge. The past two
winters with the boat out of the water there has been no evidence of a
smile but I have been concerned with the bilge and it always having water
in it. Keel stepped, when it rains, water in the bilge. Aside from that any
condensation in the boat, the stuffing box (which needs repacking), etc,
and I have water in the bilge, all the time.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 8:44 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:

> John and others
>
> In the reply below you reference the problems from wet stainless in
> oxygen deprived environment.  I have heard this comment several times
> before also.
>
> I am not aware of a large nimber of sailboats that do not have some
> water in th bilge most if not all the time.  Since this is where the
> kell bolts are torgued with the nuts it seem that this would count as
> wet and oxygen deprived.  Am I missing something or are we all in
> imminent danger?
>
> Mike
>
> Nut Case
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
> and Maryann Read
> Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 5:56 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C smile
>
> Hi Bill
>
> If your keelboats are leaking, then your smile has progressed to the
> point
> of more than stuffing in some bondo and the need for some redoing the
> keel /
> sump seal itself to prevent leaks.  Remember that the keel bolts are
> stainless which will degrade when wet in an oxygen deprived environment
> which is what happens when the keel / sump seal is compromised.  A good
> starting place would be get the opinion of your local fiberglass repair
> shop.  I believe this subject is also well covered in the archives of
> this
> list as well as the DIY section of the photoalbum.
>
> To be absolutely sure, the preferred process at haul out would be to 1)
> lower the keel, 2)  clean, fair and prep the mating surfaces, 3)
> reattach
> the keel with a preferred adhesive / sealant, 4)  properly torque the
> keel
> bolts, 5) grind and fair both sides of the joint by at least a foot, 6)
> apply fiberglass as a fairing, 7)  fair the fiberglass, 8)  apply
> several
> coats of barrier coat then bottom paint.
>
> If this is too much, then you can try digging out all bondo and as best
> you
> can expose the joint as deeply as possible.  Clean it to provide a good
> sealing surface.  Stuff in your sealant, then proceed at step 4.
>
> Fiberglass tape provides negligible structural integrity.  The keel
> bolts
> and adhesive at the sump / keel joint do that.  The tape is to fair the
> joint.  If there is insufficient structural integrity, the keel will
> flex
> and break the tape bond.
>
> Hope this helps
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> Connon
> Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 1:26 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List C&C smile
>
> I've been fixing the smile with Bondo over the past few years. This
> season
> I've noticed that I'm getting some sea water into the bilge ( along with
> rainwater that comes down the mast ). On haulout this year I'm planning
> on
> making a more permanent fix. Has anybody used G-Flex epoxy for this
> project?
> I plan on using thickened epoxy to fill the gap and then use wetted out
> fibreglass tape to strengthen the joint.
> Comments, ideas and suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Bill
> Caprice 1
> 1978 C&C 36
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C smile

[Hoyt, Mike]

Bill

I have used G-Flex the past number of years.  Prior to that I used 3M
Premium Marine filler (the blue stuff).  G-Flex is marginally better.
The problem is not so much the smile as the fact that some keels move a
bit.  On previous boat - George Hinterhoeller designed and build Niagara
26 it was almost identical to C&C boats that George built with the
"smile" etc.  I was having water come in one year and that was because
the nuts needed to be torqued.  I did this in the water and that stopped
the leak and then in the off season I dropped the keel 2 inches (lifted
front of hull), cleaned the joint, rebedded with 3M 5200 and retorqued.
Never leaked again.

Even afetr rebedding the keel the "smile" came back at least every
second year abd usually every year.  Current boat is J-27 and has the
same "smile" issue from keel flexing.  I used G-Flex with limited
success - now only the forward 1/2 to 1/3 of the joint needs refairing
every year.  Last off season based on advice of others on this forum I
ground out the joint a bit and used 6 oz cloth with West 105 epoxy and
fast hardener and faired over that with Gflex thickened with West 407.
This past summer have hit a lot of nasty square waves so will be
interesting to see how the joint made out when we haul boat next weekend

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Connon
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 2:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C smile

I've been fixing the smile with Bondo over the past few years. This 
season I've noticed that I'm getting some sea water into the bilge ( 
along with rainwater that comes down the mast ). On haulout this year 
I'm planning on making a more permanent fix. Has anybody used G-Flex 
epoxy for this project? I plan on using thickened epoxy to fill the gap 
and then use wetted out fibreglass tape to strengthen the joint. 
Comments, ideas and suggestions would be appreciated.

Bill
Caprice 1
1978 C&C 36

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Re: Stus-List Rendezvous on Block Island

[Andrew Burton]

I've ridden around the island on a regular bike with no problem. The roads 
aren't the smoothest, but they're not terrible either.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Sep 3, 2013, at 8:01, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

> I rode around the island on a moped with no issues years ago.
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
> Knecht
> Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 7:58 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Rendezvous on Block Island
>  
> I have only been to Block Island once many years ago and we only explored the 
> road north to the lighthouse on mountain bikes.  My wife and I would like to 
> explore further and are planning on bringing road bikes. From what I have 
> read, at least the main loop road should be road bike accessible.  True?  Are 
> the other roads too rough for road bikes or is there more we could 
> potentially explore?  Thanks- Dave
>  
>  
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List C&C smile - wet keel bolts

[Hoyt, Mike]

John and others 

In the reply below you reference the problems from wet stainless in
oxygen deprived environment.  I have heard this comment several times
before also.

I am not aware of a large nimber of sailboats that do not have some
water in th bilge most if not all the time.  Since this is where the
kell bolts are torgued with the nuts it seem that this would count as
wet and oxygen deprived.  Am I missing something or are we all in
imminent danger?

Mike

Nut Case


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
and Maryann Read
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 5:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C smile

Hi Bill

If your keelboats are leaking, then your smile has progressed to the
point
of more than stuffing in some bondo and the need for some redoing the
keel /
sump seal itself to prevent leaks.  Remember that the keel bolts are
stainless which will degrade when wet in an oxygen deprived environment
which is what happens when the keel / sump seal is compromised.  A good
starting place would be get the opinion of your local fiberglass repair
shop.  I believe this subject is also well covered in the archives of
this
list as well as the DIY section of the photoalbum.

To be absolutely sure, the preferred process at haul out would be to 1)
lower the keel, 2)  clean, fair and prep the mating surfaces, 3)
reattach
the keel with a preferred adhesive / sealant, 4)  properly torque the
keel
bolts, 5) grind and fair both sides of the joint by at least a foot, 6)
apply fiberglass as a fairing, 7)  fair the fiberglass, 8)  apply
several
coats of barrier coat then bottom paint.

If this is too much, then you can try digging out all bondo and as best
you
can expose the joint as deeply as possible.  Clean it to provide a good
sealing surface.  Stuff in your sealant, then proceed at step 4.

Fiberglass tape provides negligible structural integrity.  The keel
bolts
and adhesive at the sump / keel joint do that.  The tape is to fair the
joint.  If there is insufficient structural integrity, the keel will
flex
and break the tape bond.

Hope this helps



John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Connon
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 1:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C smile

I've been fixing the smile with Bondo over the past few years. This
season
I've noticed that I'm getting some sea water into the bilge ( along with
rainwater that comes down the mast ). On haulout this year I'm planning
on
making a more permanent fix. Has anybody used G-Flex epoxy for this
project?
I plan on using thickened epoxy to fill the gap and then use wetted out
fibreglass tape to strengthen the joint. 
Comments, ideas and suggestions would be appreciated.

Bill
Caprice 1
1978 C&C 36

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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Josh Muckley]

I just paid $100 for my 37+ (40') in Solomons.  That's about half of what a
short haul was gonna cost.

Josh
On Sep 3, 2013 8:01 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

> I have paid anyplace between $60 and $150, depending on who does it and
> how dirty the boat is. I have my own gear too, but my wife is convinced
> I'll get a  horrible disease from swimming in the marina. She only wants me
> cleaning the boat up at the yacht club or some other semi-clean place. So
> far the worst I have had is an ear infection from Weems Creek and barnacle
> cuts that get infected. Please do NOT clean the bottom without gloves.
> Those cuts always get red and take a long time to heal :(
>
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Bushie
> Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 9:38 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft
>
> Joe,
> How much does a bottom cleaning run?
> Rick
> Anchovy
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Rendezvous on Block Island

[Della Barba, Joe]

I rode around the island on a moped with no issues years ago.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 7:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Rendezvous on Block Island

I have only been to Block Island once many years ago and we only explored the 
road north to the lighthouse on mountain bikes.  My wife and I would like to 
explore further and are planning on bringing road bikes. From what I have read, 
at least the main loop road should be road bike accessible.  True?  Are the 
other roads too rough for road bikes or is there more we could potentially 
explore?  Thanks- Dave


David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:image001.png@01CEA87B.DA28BDF0]

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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Della Barba, Joe]

I have paid anyplace between $60 and $150, depending on who does it and how 
dirty the boat is. I have my own gear too, but my wife is convinced I'll get a  
horrible disease from swimming in the marina. She only wants me cleaning the 
boat up at the yacht club or some other semi-clean place. So far the worst I 
have had is an ear infection from Weems Creek and barnacle cuts that get 
infected. Please do NOT clean the bottom without gloves. Those cuts always get 
red and take a long time to heal :(

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Bushie
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 9:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

Joe,
How much does a bottom cleaning run?
Rick
Anchovy

Sent from my iPhone

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Stus-List Rendezvous on Block Island

[David Knecht]

I have only been to Block Island once many years ago and we only explored the road north to the lighthouse on mountain bikes.  My wife and I would like to explore further and are planning on bringing road bikes. From what I have read, at least the main loop road should be road bike accessible.  True?  Are the other roads too rough for road bikes or is there more we could potentially explore?  Thanks- Dave
David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT

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