Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

[Kevin Driscoll]

Allen,

>From one C&C 30 mkII to another, I *would not* go the route of the Alpen
Glow overhead lights. In my opinion, they may be fine for the older,
somewhat more traditionally designed boats with lots of little teak bits,
but the integrated lights in the headliner of the Robert Ball era boats are
*integral* to the interior. I would use the Alpenglow reading lamps, which
seem nice (though pretty darn expensive), but I would replace the overheads
with something that fits underneath the diffuser in the headliner.

I've opted for the easy way and bought the Marinebeam led fluorescent
replacement bulbs, which fit into the existing fixtures. We've used them
main cabin, in the head and also the aft cabin on our 30-2 and are quite
happy with them. We've opted for the middle color temperature of the three.
I would not go with the warmest temp. Of course there are other solutions,
but this seemed the most cost effective with a minimal amount of dickering.

The reading lights on the 30-2...well they are kind of cheap and throw a
bit of glare. That is something I consider replacing in time.

Best,
Kevin



Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493


On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 1:07 PM, allen  wrote:

>  Finally got on Septima Thursday last.  Wind was howling, but at least
> there was no rain.   It's imagineering time, so I looked first at the
> formed areas in the headliner where the two age fluorescent fixtures
> reside.  I want to replace them with the Alpenglow LED fixtures you used.
> The LED units measure 10 X 6 X 2 inches.  The openings are  13.5 X 8 X 2
> inches.  I want to set the LED fixtures as flush to the headliner as
> possible for head clearance reasons. I'm 6' 4" and those teak corners look
> sharp. How did you mount yours so they look professionally done?
>
> I'm looking to convert to all LED in one fell swoop, the convenience lamps
> for the sole, the reading lamps, the head and the nav station gooseneck.
> Any other pitfalls I should avoid?
>
> I'm also checking out the group suggestions for refrigeration and took the
> measurements for that project too.
>
> Allen Miles
> S/V *Septima*
> 30-2
> Hampton, VA
>
>  *From:* Rick Brass 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 17, 2013 10:32 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL
>
>  I don’t always agree with the things I read in Practical Sailor, but I
> have to agree with them that these are about the best interior lights
> available for general illumination in your cabin.
>
>
>
> I’ve had a low power Alpenglow fluorescent fixture on my 25 for more than
> a decade. I like the quality of the illumination, the low power
> consumption, and the nice teak fixture. My experience was a large part of
> the decision to put two of the LED fixtures on my 38.
>
>
>
> All of the fixtures I purchased have high (9W for the fluorescent) and low
> (6 or 7W) power for white light, and a separate red light with 2 low power
> settings. I habitually leave the lowest power red lights on when sailing at
> night so I can find the beer or a snack and move around the cabin without
> bumping into things.
>
>
>
> Others on the list have other solutions for low power consumption lighting
> – and may well have paid less than I did. The LED fixtures were around $130
> each. But I spent a half hour or less on the installation process and I
> don’t need to worry about a source for spare parts if I ever need them.
>
>
>
> I’m quite happy with the lights.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *
> David
> *Sent:* Monday, December 16, 2013 5:17 PM
> *To:* CNC CNC
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL
>
>
>
> Rick,
>
> Do you like the Alpenglows?
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>   --
>
> From: rickbr...@earthlink.net
> To: capt...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 14:43:16 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL
>
> Alex;
>
>
>
> I second Dennis’ recommendation for MarineBeam.com. I have also used
> Superbrightleds.com as a source with good results for replacement for
> incandescent bulbs in the cabin. And as I’ve said before, I put Alpenglow
> LED fixtures in the cabin in place of the OEM fluorescent lights. The only
> problem I have had in the 3 or so years I’ve had LED bulbs on the boat has
> been with the PAR bulbs that are in the light fixtures containing my
> steaming and foredeck lights and my spreader lights. The heat sink on the
> LED replacement bulbs is slightly larger than the reflector on the halogen
> bulbs that came in the fixture, so the fit isn’t quite right and I need to
> install the LED bulbs without the lens that came in the fixture. No
> failures so far, but I had to go up and reseat one of the spreader lights
> last spring before it would go on.
>
>
>
> Regarding nav lights, I’m not sure about Transport Canada requirements –
> you guys have some regs that seem frickin strange to me. But as far as the

Re: Stus-List How to remove blades of gori 2-blade prop

[Martin Kane]

Dave

I replaced the cutlass bearing on my 29-2 two years ago and removed the Gori
a couple of weeks ago.   A couple of observations:

1.   I found it difficult it impossible to use a normal prop puller to
remove the hub after the blades were removed. I would have needed a much
longer bolt in the prop puller than was standard. Given the Gori was shot, I
opted to cut the hub so the prop puller would work.

2.   Once the prop is removed I don't see how it will be possible to
remove and replace the cutlass bearing with the shaft in place. If you have
that figured out, great. If not you may need to think about leaving the prop
in place and pulling the shaft.

Good luck

 

Martin 

Recalculating

C&C 29-2

Toronto

 

From: sthom...@sympatico.ca [mailto:sthom...@sympatico.ca] 
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 2:51 PM
To: Stews List
Subject: Re: Stus-List How to remove blades of gori 2-blade prop

 

The pins that hold the blades are tapered stainless steel. Once you have
removed the set screws, they should be easy to drive out, but make certain
that you have all of the set screws removed. Mine had 2 short set screws in
each hole, one on top of the other. 
 
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 

> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 15:35:16 -0300
> From: dl...@ap.stmarys.ca  
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
> Subject: Stus-List How to remove blades of gori 2-blade prop
> 
> I have a C&C 29-2 (1983) with a 2-blade Gori prop on it. I need to 
> remove the prop to replace the cutless bearing (without removing the 
> whole shaft). The blades have to be removed in order to get access to 
> the nut that would allow the prop to be removed. Does anyone know how to 
> do this or know where instructions are online? I have been able to loose 
> the three set-screws in the prop.
> 
> --- Dave
> S/V "Vela"
> 
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com  

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Re: Stus-List Fw: Ice Box seal...

[David]

Charlie,

Was there an attachment showing "these" or were you referring to an earlier 
e-mail.

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


From: cenel...@aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 20:26:12 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw:  Ice Box seal...

These were standard on my icebox/refrigerator, my chart table and my lazarette 
hatches with my 1995 XL/kcb. They are great and last approx 4-5 years depending 
on where they are used IIRC.
Charlie NelsonC&C 36XL/kcbWater Phantom

Sent from my iPad
On Apr 21, 2014, at 5:30 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:

Me, too, if you could.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Apr 21, 2014, at 4:15 PM, Persuasion  wrote:I would 
Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault From: Bill ColemanSent: Monday, April 21, 2014 5:00 PMTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal... I put it on in the 
middle of 2012. Still going strong.  Would you like to see pictures of it in 
action? Bill ColemanC&C 39___
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Re: Stus-List dorade box fastening

[Martin DeYoung]

Jimmy,

Thanks for the info based on your Bruckmann built Redline.  I will discuss the 
hatch conversion idea with Calypso’s co-owner but I expect we will keep the 
teak dorade boxes.  One of our goals is to keep the boat mostly looking like it 
was when launched, just a little updated here and there.

> have you decided on deck treatment?<

I am planning to test Kiwi Grip (light gray) and EZPoxy 2 (color similar to the 
original off white) on a cockpit hatch.  I will be testing for how the paint 
applies with brush or roll/tip and how the Kiwi Grip looks/feels.  If the light 
grey non-skid area looks out of place we will stick with the existing all off 
white and use a custom color mix of Kiwi Grip or similar non-skid coating.

The original teak foredeck hatch was converted to a A&H 36”x36” back in the 
early 80’s.  The mid and head A&H hatches were original from 1970.  All three 
opening A&H hatches were sent to Hammerhead for refirb.  I will report back on 
how they look when the 90lbs of hatches and packaging arrive back next week.

By the time we are finished over 200 holes in the deck will have been drilled 
out and refilled with epoxy.  Some work days we have found more old holes that 
were painted over than we filled.  Must be each past owner moved deck hardware 
around several times.  Most of the old polyester based filler (“bondo”) is 
failing and allows water to seep by.  All deck hardware is being removed to 
inspect for water intrusion.  Most areas checked so far have some amount of wet 
or damaged core.  We are getting faster at repairing and sealing the areas.  
High load areas will be rebuilt with epoxy and glass so no further water damage 
will occur.

The interior will be sanded or stripped (it is painted Herreshoff style, white 
with teak trim) then repainted with white Brightside.  If time allows we will 
rebuilt the “stick built” sole supports.  After decades of racing and cruising, 
crew weight upon the floorboards causes enough creaking to be quite annoying 
when someone does a middle of the night anchor check.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jimmy Kelly
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 5:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List dorade box fastening

have 1968 redline 41 by bruckmann mfgremoved dorades..,back in early 
80swere fastened from below as well as from inside boxes...also 
glassedwithin boxwere not designed to be removed..had to have yard  
..cut them off...instead of new dorades went with aluminium  14 by 8 inch 
hatches...alternated which way openedone of best changes madeespecially 
when in hot climates30 yrs later..lewmar hatches still in great 
shapealso less teak to maintain...with way yard installed hatches ...  
length wise parallel to boat centerlineat least 2 can be open depending on 
direction of wave spray...have really worked wellalso look great...not what 
had in mind when project started...later replaced teak hatches with lewmar 
aluminium hatches..no more leaks when teak wood dried out in hot summer 
sun.good luck on your projecthave you decided on deck treatment?
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Stus-List Dorade boxes

[Daniel Sheer]

Martin,

The boxes on my LF38 are attached with screws from inside the cabin top. I 
needed to remove the headliner to get to them. Not too bad, actually, and the 
screws came out without excessive effort.

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

[Jake Brodersen]

Allen,

 

The Adler-Barbour system works well for do-it-yourself refrigeration.  I'd
be glad to show you how I did mine.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of allen
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 4:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

 

Finally got on Septima Thursday last.  Wind was howling, but at least there
was no rain.   It's imagineering time, so I looked first at the formed areas
in the headliner where the two age fluorescent fixtures reside.  I want to
replace them with the Alpenglow LED fixtures you used. The LED units measure
10 X 6 X 2 inches.  The openings are  13.5 X 8 X 2  inches.  I want to set
the LED fixtures as flush to the headliner as possible for head clearance
reasons. I'm 6' 4" and those teak corners look sharp. How did you mount
yours so they look professionally done? 

 

I'm looking to convert to all LED in one fell swoop, the convenience lamps
for the sole, the reading lamps, the head and the nav station gooseneck.
Any other pitfalls I should avoid?

 

I'm also checking out the group suggestions for refrigeration and took the
measurements for that project too.

 

Allen Miles

S/V Septima

30-2

Hampton, VA

 

From: Rick Brass   

Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 10:32 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

 

I don't always agree with the things I read in Practical Sailor, but I have
to agree with them that these are about the best interior lights available
for general illumination in your cabin.

 

I've had a low power Alpenglow fluorescent fixture on my 25 for more than a
decade. I like the quality of the illumination, the low power consumption,
and the nice teak fixture. My experience was a large part of the decision to
put two of the LED fixtures on my 38.

 

All of the fixtures I purchased have high (9W for the fluorescent) and low
(6 or 7W) power for white light, and a separate red light with 2 low power
settings. I habitually leave the lowest power red lights on when sailing at
night so I can find the beer or a snack and move around the cabin without
bumping into things.

 

Others on the list have other solutions for low power consumption lighting -
and may well have paid less than I did. The LED fixtures were around $130
each. But I spent a half hour or less on the installation process and I
don't need to worry about a source for spare parts if I ever need them.

 

I'm quite happy with the lights.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 5:17 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

 

Rick,  

Do you like the Alpenglows?

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

  _  

From: rickbr...@earthlink.net
To: capt...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 14:43:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

Alex;

 

I second Dennis' recommendation for MarineBeam.com. I have also used
Superbrightleds.com as a source with good results for replacement for
incandescent bulbs in the cabin. And as I've said before, I put Alpenglow
LED fixtures in the cabin in place of the OEM fluorescent lights. The only
problem I have had in the 3 or so years I've had LED bulbs on the boat has
been with the PAR bulbs that are in the light fixtures containing my
steaming and foredeck lights and my spreader lights. The heat sink on the
LED replacement bulbs is slightly larger than the reflector on the halogen
bulbs that came in the fixture, so the fit isn't quite right and I need to
install the LED bulbs without the lens that came in the fixture. No failures
so far, but I had to go up and reseat one of the spreader lights last spring
before it would go on.

 

Regarding nav lights, I'm not sure about Transport Canada requirements - you
guys have some regs that seem frickin strange to me. But as far as the USCG
compliance goes you should have no problems. 

 

The USCG requires that the manufacturer use nav lights that comply with USCG
requirements when building the boat. Many light manufacturers will put
something on their fixtures that say they comply with the requirements. But
the USCG neither approves nor disapproves of any light, they only require
that the lights used put out enough lumens to be seen over the range and arc
specified in the ColRegs.

 

The guy at Marinebeam was really helpful to me when I put LEDs in all my nav
lights. I wanted 5 mile visibility (as for a vessel 65 ft or more), though
the USCG requirement for my boat is only 2 miles. We talked about what
fixtures I had (I recall that you really need to put green LEDs behind green
lenses to meet the requirements because of the temperature/wavelength of the
output of the LEDs) and was able to supply the requested bulbs for
everything except those little red and green "eyeball" fixtures in

Stus-List dorade box fastening

[Jimmy Kelly]

have 1968 redline 41 by bruckmann mfgremoved dorades..,back in early
80swere fastened from below as well as from inside boxes...also
glassedwithin boxwere not designed to be removed..had to have
yard  ..cut them off...instead of new dorades went with aluminium  14 by 8
inch hatches...alternated which way openedone of best changes
madeespecially when in hot climates30 yrs later..lewmar hatches
still in great shapealso less teak to maintain...with way yard
installed hatches ...  length wise parallel to boat centerlineat least
2 can be open depending on direction of wave spray...have really worked
wellalso look great...not what had in mind when project started...later
replaced teak hatches with lewmar aluminium hatches..no more leaks when
teak wood dried out in hot summer sun.good luck on your projecthave
you decided on deck treatment?
___
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Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

[Jake Brodersen]

David,

 

I picked up some ½” neoprene gasket at a home improvement store.  It has an
adhesive backing and stays in place.   It makes for a good seal and won’t
compress permanently.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 9:32 AM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

 

Hello,

Not a big question, but...

I just re-finished the icebox and want to put a seal around the top under
its lid.   The lid is heavy and I was wondering what gasketing material
might withstand the weight of the top over time without compressing and
become useless.

Thanks in advance. 

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Re: Stus-List Fw: Ice Box seal...

[Charles Nelson]

These were standard on my icebox/refrigerator, my chart table and my lazarette 
hatches with my 1995 XL/kcb. They are great and last approx 4-5 years depending 
on where they are used IIRC.

Charlie Nelson
C&C 36XL/kcb
Water Phantom


Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 21, 2014, at 5:30 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> Me, too, if you could.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Apr 21, 2014, at 4:15 PM, Persuasion  wrote:
>> 
>> I would
>>  
>> Mike
>> S/V Persuasion
>> C&C 37 Keel/CB
>> Long Sault
>>  
>> From: Bill Coleman
>> Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 5:00 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...
>>  
>> I put it on in the middle of 2012. Still going strong.  Would you like to 
>> see pictures of it in action?
>>  
>> Bill Coleman
>> C&C 39
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List 70's C&C dorade box details

[Frederick G Street]

Martin — my boat is late 70’s, not early; and the dorades are mounted to the 
deck with short “L”-shaped pieces of aluminum angle screwed into the interior 
box sides, then screws down through the deck.  Does that help?  My boat wasn’t 
done at the custom yard, so your mileage may vary...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 21, 2014, at 4:36 PM, Martin DeYoung  wrote:

> Have any early 70’s C&C owners removed their teak dorade boxes?
>  
> If so, how were they attached?  Screws up from inside or down through the 
> teak into the first layer of glass?
>  
> We are pulling Calypso’s for refirb and new deck paint and have not yet 
> located the fasteners.  Ours were originally installed by Bruckmann’s custom 
> yard in late 1970.  I expect the screw heads are inside buried under 40 years 
> of paint.
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
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Re: Stus-List [AIS] Sailboat Racing in Bayfield - Something for Everyone!

[Pete Shelquist]

 

FYI - The following is for those of you in the Bayfield and Minneapolis
area, or for those that would like to visit.  We have a very good
representation of C&Cs in the fleet.

 


***

 

Would you, or someone you know, like to learn more about sailboat racing in
Bayfield, WI?  Come to an informational meeting to hear about the Wayzata
Yacht Club / Apostle Island Station and the sailboat racing in Bayfield, WI.


 

Topics covered will include:  Race Week and Regular Season races, Class
Descriptions (including NEW Jib and Main class), Safety, Rules, Trophies,
How to get started as owner or crew, and most importantly - the Social Hour!

 

Two brief informational meetings will be held at:

Wayzata Yacht Club, Wayzata, MN on Wednesday April 23, 2014 at 6:30 PM

Pikes Bay Marina, Bayfield, WI on Saturday June 7, 2014 at 9:00 AM

 

Interested boat owners, charterers, and people who want to just crew for
someone are all welcome!

 

Look for updates at the WYC-AIS website:  http://wyc.org/ais/Home.aspx 

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Re: Stus-List 70's C&C dorade box details

[coltrek]

I removed mine. Surprisingly they were stuck on real good with silicone. They were screwed from underneath. Was no big deal as I recall.Wild Bill Original message From: Martin DeYoung  Date:04/21/2014  5:36 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List 70's C&C dorade box details 

Have any early 70’s C&C owners removed their teak dorade boxes?
 
If so, how were they attached?  Screws up from inside or down through the teak into the first layer of glass?
 
We are pulling Calypso’s for refirb and new deck paint and have not yet located the fasteners.  Ours were originally installed by Bruckmann’s custom yard in late 1970.  I expect the screw heads
 are inside buried under 40 years of paint.
 
Thanks,
 
Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle


 



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Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

[davidrisch75]

Thanks Bill.   That would be great


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Bill Coleman 
Date:04/21/2014  5:02 PM  (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

I put it on in the middle of 2012. Still going strong.  Would you like to see 
pictures of it in action?



Bill Coleman

C&C 39



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of davidrisch75
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 4:28 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...



Bill,



Thank you.  My only concern is longevity.   Any experience with time and 
product?



Re:  gas strut.Thanks but we are a three part lid.   Strut would not work.



1981 40-2





Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone



 Original message 
From: Bill Coleman
Date:04/21/2014 2:19 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

I just redid my countertops and had to redo my lid, I found the perfect seal a 
Lowes, believe it or not.

I still have enough to do another.  Unfortunately, the cardboard inside the 
container is gone, so I cannot tell you that.

What I can tell you, is it was around 19 bucks, and is silicone, with a peel 
off tape with adhesive. I don’t know how they get anything to stick to the 
silicone, but it was perfect. Being silicone, is shouldn’t  deform.

Whoa, here it is,

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=73604-81-68668 

 
&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1099657&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1







Bill Coleman

C&C 39



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 9:32 AM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Stus-List Ice Box seal...



Hello,

Not a big question, but...

I just re-finished the icebox and want to put a seal around the top under its 
lid.   The lid is heavy and I was wondering what gasketing material might 
withstand the weight of the top over time without compressing and become 
useless.

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Stus-List 70's C&C dorade box details

[Martin DeYoung]

Have any early 70's C&C owners removed their teak dorade boxes?

If so, how were they attached?  Screws up from inside or down through the teak 
into the first layer of glass?

We are pulling Calypso's for refirb and new deck paint and have not yet located 
the fasteners.  Ours were originally installed by Bruckmann's custom yard in 
late 1970.  I expect the screw heads are inside buried under 40 years of paint.

Thanks,

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

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Re: Stus-List Fw: Ice Box seal...

[Frederick G Street]

Me, too, if you could.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 21, 2014, at 4:15 PM, Persuasion  wrote:

> I would
>  
> Mike
> S/V Persuasion
> C&C 37 Keel/CB
> Long Sault
>  
> From: Bill Coleman
> Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 5:00 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...
>  
> I put it on in the middle of 2012. Still going strong.  Would you like to see 
> pictures of it in action?
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39
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Stus-List Fw: Ice Box seal...

[Persuasion]

I would

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Bill Coleman 
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 5:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

I put it on in the middle of 2012. Still going strong.  Would you like to see 
pictures of it in action?

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of davidrisch75
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 4:28 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

 

Bill,

 

Thank you.  My only concern is longevity.   Any experience with time and 
product?

 

Re:  gas strut.Thanks but we are a three part lid.   Strut would not work.  
 

 

1981 40-2

 

 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone



 Original message 
From: Bill Coleman 
Date:04/21/2014 2:19 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal... 

I just redid my countertops and had to redo my lid, I found the perfect seal a 
Lowes, believe it or not.

I still have enough to do another.  Unfortunately, the cardboard inside the 
container is gone, so I cannot tell you that.

What I can tell you, is it was around 19 bucks, and is silicone, with a peel 
off tape with adhesive. I don’t know how they get anything to stick to the 
silicone, but it was perfect. Being silicone, is shouldn’t  deform.

Whoa, here it is, 

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=73604-81-68668&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1099657&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 9:32 AM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

 

Hello,

Not a big question, but...

I just re-finished the icebox and want to put a seal around the top under its 
lid.   The lid is heavy and I was wondering what gasketing material might 
withstand the weight of the top over time without compressing and become 
useless.

Thanks in advance. 

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)




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Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

[Bill Coleman]

I put it on in the middle of 2012. Still going strong.  Would you like to see 
pictures of it in action?

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of davidrisch75
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 4:28 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

 

Bill,

 

Thank you.  My only concern is longevity.   Any experience with time and 
product?

 

Re:  gas strut.Thanks but we are a three part lid.   Strut would not work.  
 

 

1981 40-2

 

 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone



 Original message 
From: Bill Coleman 
Date:04/21/2014 2:19 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal... 

I just redid my countertops and had to redo my lid, I found the perfect seal a 
Lowes, believe it or not.

I still have enough to do another.  Unfortunately, the cardboard inside the 
container is gone, so I cannot tell you that.

What I can tell you, is it was around 19 bucks, and is silicone, with a peel 
off tape with adhesive. I don’t know how they get anything to stick to the 
silicone, but it was perfect. Being silicone, is shouldn’t  deform.

Whoa, here it is, 

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=73604-81-68668 

 
&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1099657&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 9:32 AM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

 

Hello,

Not a big question, but...

I just re-finished the icebox and want to put a seal around the top under its 
lid.   The lid is heavy and I was wondering what gasketing material might 
withstand the weight of the top over time without compressing and become 
useless.

Thanks in advance. 

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Re: Stus-List Reefer Madness

[John Pennie]

Do the same with 16oz water bottles.  Cold water for the next day.

John

On Apr 21, 2014, at 4:01 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> I do the same with Gatorade.  That stuff never thaws!
> 
> Joel
> 
> 
> On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 3:58 PM, Alan Bergen  wrote:
> 
>  I freeze one gallon milk containers, instead of using loose ice.   Ice box 
> stays dry, and when the ice melts, you have clean, cold water.  I now have 
> refrigeration, but still use frozen milk gallons to maintain the ice box 
> temperature, and to keep the compressor from cycling as often.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

[davidrisch75]

Bill,

Thank you.  My only concern is longevity.   Any experience with time and 
product?

Re:  gas strut.Thanks but we are a three part lid.   Strut would not work.

1981 40-2


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Bill Coleman 
Date:04/21/2014  2:19 PM  (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

I just redid my countertops and had to redo my lid, I found the perfect seal
a Lowes, believe it or not.

I still have enough to do another.  Unfortunately, the cardboard inside the
container is gone, so I cannot tell you that.

What I can tell you, is it was around 19 bucks, and is silicone, with a peel
off tape with adhesive. I don't know how they get anything to stick to the
silicone, but it was perfect. Being silicone, is shouldn't  deform.

Whoa, here it is,

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=73604-81-68668

&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1099657&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=
nofollow&cId=PDIO1







Bill Coleman

C&C 39



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 9:32 AM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Stus-List Ice Box seal...



Hello,

Not a big question, but...

I just re-finished the icebox and want to put a seal around the top under
its lid.   The lid is heavy and I was wondering what gasketing material
might withstand the weight of the top over time without compressing and
become useless.

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

[allen]

Finally got on Septima Thursday last.  Wind was howling, but at least there was 
no rain.   It's imagineering time, so I looked first at the formed areas in the 
headliner where the two age fluorescent fixtures reside.  I want to replace 
them with the Alpenglow LED fixtures you used. The LED units measure 10 X 6 X 2 
inches.  The openings are  13.5 X 8 X 2  inches.  I want to set the LED 
fixtures as flush to the headliner as possible for head clearance reasons. I'm 
6' 4" and those teak corners look sharp. How did you mount yours so they look 
professionally done? 

I'm looking to convert to all LED in one fell swoop, the convenience lamps for 
the sole, the reading lamps, the head and the nav station gooseneck.  Any other 
pitfalls I should avoid?

I'm also checking out the group suggestions for refrigeration and took the 
measurements for that project too.

Allen Miles
S/V Septima
30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Rick Brass 
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 10:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL


I don't always agree with the things I read in Practical Sailor, but I have to 
agree with them that these are about the best interior lights available for 
general illumination in your cabin.

 

I've had a low power Alpenglow fluorescent fixture on my 25 for more than a 
decade. I like the quality of the illumination, the low power consumption, and 
the nice teak fixture. My experience was a large part of the decision to put 
two of the LED fixtures on my 38.

 

All of the fixtures I purchased have high (9W for the fluorescent) and low (6 
or 7W) power for white light, and a separate red light with 2 low power 
settings. I habitually leave the lowest power red lights on when sailing at 
night so I can find the beer or a snack and move around the cabin without 
bumping into things.

 

Others on the list have other solutions for low power consumption lighting - 
and may well have paid less than I did. The LED fixtures were around $130 each. 
But I spent a half hour or less on the installation process and I don't need to 
worry about a source for spare parts if I ever need them.

 

I'm quite happy with the lights.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 5:17 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

 

Rick,  

Do you like the Alpenglows?

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)






From: rickbr...@earthlink.net
To: capt...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 14:43:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

Alex;

 

I second Dennis' recommendation for MarineBeam.com. I have also used 
Superbrightleds.com as a source with good results for replacement for 
incandescent bulbs in the cabin. And as I've said before, I put Alpenglow LED 
fixtures in the cabin in place of the OEM fluorescent lights. The only problem 
I have had in the 3 or so years I've had LED bulbs on the boat has been with 
the PAR bulbs that are in the light fixtures containing my steaming and 
foredeck lights and my spreader lights. The heat sink on the LED replacement 
bulbs is slightly larger than the reflector on the halogen bulbs that came in 
the fixture, so the fit isn't quite right and I need to install the LED bulbs 
without the lens that came in the fixture. No failures so far, but I had to go 
up and reseat one of the spreader lights last spring before it would go on.

 

Regarding nav lights, I'm not sure about Transport Canada requirements - you 
guys have some regs that seem frickin strange to me. But as far as the USCG 
compliance goes you should have no problems. 

 

The USCG requires that the manufacturer use nav lights that comply with USCG 
requirements when building the boat. Many light manufacturers will put 
something on their fixtures that say they comply with the requirements. But the 
USCG neither approves nor disapproves of any light, they only require that the 
lights used put out enough lumens to be seen over the range and arc specified 
in the ColRegs.

 

The guy at Marinebeam was really helpful to me when I put LEDs in all my nav 
lights. I wanted 5 mile visibility (as for a vessel 65 ft or more), though the 
USCG requirement for my boat is only 2 miles. We talked about what fixtures I 
had (I recall that you really need to put green LEDs behind green lenses to 
meet the requirements because of the temperature/wavelength of the output of 
the LEDs) and was able to supply the requested bulbs for everything except 
those little red and green "eyeball" fixtures in the stem of the boat, and even 
there he was able to supply bulbs to meet the 2 mile requirement.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 1:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

 

Go ch

Re: Stus-List Reefer Madness

[Joel Aronson]

I do the same with Gatorade.  That stuff never thaws!

Joel


On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 3:58 PM, Alan Bergen wrote:

>
>  I freeze one gallon milk containers, instead of using loose ice.   Ice
> box stays dry, and when the ice melts, you have clean, cold water.  I now
> have refrigeration, but still use frozen milk gallons to maintain the ice
> box temperature, and to keep the compressor from cycling as often.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Reefer Madness

[Alan Bergen]

I freeze one gallon milk containers, instead of using loose ice. Ice box stays 
dry, and when the ice melts, you have clean, cold water. I now have 
refrigeration, but still use frozen milk gallons to maintain the ice box 
temperature, and to keep the compressor from cycling as often. 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 
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Re: Stus-List How to remove blades of gori 2-blade prop

[Alan Bergen]

Dave: 
Remove the set screws completely. Then check to see whether there are set 
screws underneath the ones you removed. If so, remove them also. The pin 
holding the blades should slide out, or you may have to tap it out. 


Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 


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Re: Stus-List How to remove blades of gori 2-blade prop

[sthoma20]

The pins that hold the blades are tapered stainless steel. Once you have 
removed the set screws, they should be easy to drive out, but make certain that 
you have all of the set screws removed. Mine had 2 short set screws in each 
hole, one on top of the other. 
 
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 
> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 15:35:16 -0300
> From: dl...@ap.stmarys.ca
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List How to remove blades of gori 2-blade prop
> 
> I have a C&C 29-2 (1983) with a 2-blade Gori prop on it. I need to 
> remove the prop to replace the cutless bearing (without removing the 
> whole shaft). The blades have to be removed in order to get access to 
> the nut that would allow the prop to be removed. Does anyone know how to 
> do this or know where instructions are online? I have been able to loose 
> the three set-screws in the prop.
> 
> --- Dave
> S/V "Vela"
> 
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Stus-List How to remove blades of gori 2-blade prop

[Dave Lane]

I have a C&C 29-2 (1983) with a 2-blade Gori prop on it. I need to 
remove the prop to replace the cutless bearing (without removing the 
whole shaft). The blades have to be removed in order to get access to 
the nut that would allow the prop to be removed. Does anyone know how to 
do this or know where instructions are online? I have been able to loose 
the three set-screws in the prop.


--- Dave
S/V "Vela"

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Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island

[Joel Aronson]

Steve,

I did the same, but on a white hull it looks good to me.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 2:10 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:

> Nice work. Your hull looks great! Funny you mention red and blue stripes,
> I'm re-doing my own red & blue stripes in .. red and blue!!!
> But my hull is white.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 1:53 PM, Danny Haughey  wrote:
>
>> I read you comment about listing.  I added some house batteries to my
>> Viking which created a list.  I placed them in the same cabinet the all the
>> wires went into (there was no battery at all when I bought the boat). It
>> was a tight fit but they do fit.
>>
>> I liked you idea of re-placing your batteries behind the engine.  I may
>> be able to do this on my boat...maybe...
>>
>> I'm going to look seriously at that.  I know it is a little tight there,
>> also, and there are lots of wires and cables running through there.  But ,
>> it would be worth the effort to get rid of that list...  It would give me
>> back some much needed storage as well.
>>
>> I had previously thought to move them to the "L" shaped settee aft of the
>> head, closer to the center line but, that is where the holding tank is.  I
>> had never thought of trying to place them behind the motor...  Pulling them
>> in and out might be a little tough but, its no picnic where they are
>> now...LOL
>>
>> I have not even gotten down to take the cover off of my boat yet.  I'm
>> planning this Saturday for that.
>>
>> The bottom is supposed to be completely done.  I can't wait to see that
>> and grab some pics.  I had them re-do the boot strip as well and raise a
>> bit to accommodate that list I'm talking about.  I grow a little beard
>> above the line every year to the aft part of the topsides.  Maybe an inch,
>> just at the base of the blue stripe.
>>
>> Thanks for the insights on your boat, these are on my "Dream Boat" wish
>> list of potential boats for maybe 10 years from now...  LOL
>>
>> The cool thing is that the admiral is totally for an upgrade and would do
>> it now if we could pull it off!  So,...
>>
>> Danny
>> Lolita
>> 1973 Viking 33
>> Westport Point, MA
>>
>> -- Original Message --
>> From: John Pennie 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
>> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 11:40:37 -0400
>>
>> Thanks Danny.  Its a 2000 121 (the pre epoxy years).  We�ve had
>> her for less than a year so we�re still forming an opinion but so
>> far very encouraged.  Nowhere near the quality of woodwork in the original
>> C&C�s so everything is a tradeoff.
>>
>> The sail drive is a mixed bag.  They are a maintenance headache (seals,
>> painting, etc) but a lot of that may be 1 time grief as I�m new to
>> them.  Also the lack of prop walk is a mixed blessing.  I need to live with
>> it a bit longer to really decide. You do get a huge amount of additional
>> space under the cockpit that would otherwise be occupied by the shaft.
>>  This allows the builder to put things like battery banks, water heaters,
>> etc on centerline.  Vibration and noise is also reduced but not sure its at
>> a meaningful level.
>>
>> Too early to say.
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>>
>> On Apr 21, 2014, at 10:46 AM, Danny Haughey  wrote:
>>
>> > they're showing up now!
>> >
>> > Nice boat!  What year is it?  How is that Saildrive working out for
>> you?  Do you like it?  Would you prefer something else?
>> >
>> > All in all it seems your happy with the boat.  I haven't been able to
>> get on one of these or the 115 yet.  They never seem to have any at the
>> boat shows.
>> >
>> > Danny
>> >
>> > -- Original Message --
>> > From: John Pennie 
>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
>> > Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 09:37:02 -0400
>> >
>> > Sorry, bad link.
>> >
>> > http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_13-14.html
>> >
>> > John
>> >
>> > On Apr 21, 2014, at 9:16 AM, Danny Haughey  wrote:
>> >
>> >>
>> >> Hi John,
>> >>
>> >> For some reason I cannot see your pics...
>> >>
>> >> Congrats on your upcoming launch!
>> >>
>> >> Danny
>> >> Lolita
>> >> 1973 Viking 33
>> >> Westport Point, MA
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> -- Original Message --
>> >> From: John Pennie 
>> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> >> Subject: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
>> >> Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2014 17:13:19 -0400
>> >>
>> >> Hopefully we hit the water in about a week.  Very busy winter/spring
>> detailed below but very successful
>> >>
>> >> John
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_Project_13-14.html
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> ___
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>> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> >>
>> >> 
>> >> Old School Yearbook Pics
>> >> View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. L

Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

[Bill Coleman]

Another answer to a question unasked, 

I also put an STS45-020-K Gas Spring  to hold the lid up and pull it down.

http://www.guden.com/Item/STS45-020-K

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 9:32 AM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

 

Hello,

Not a big question, but...

I just re-finished the icebox and want to put a seal around the top under
its lid.   The lid is heavy and I was wondering what gasketing material
might withstand the weight of the top over time without compressing and
become useless.

Thanks in advance. 

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Re: Stus-List Packing size 1 1/8 shaft

[Prime Interest]

Thanks David/Wally/Rob

 

I found similar reference to 3/16” packing as I was running into difficulty.
I have the first ¼” ring seated into the nut using the method described by
Rob in another thread  but while it seemed to be in deep enough to attempt
the second ring that one was binding on the threads and I couldn’t get far
enough to get a bite on the threads again. 

 

Went to West Marine today and picked up some 3/16” packing.

 

 

 

 

ed

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 10:04 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Packing size 1 1/8 shaft

 

>From emarineinc
(http://www.emarineinc.com/categories/GFO-Marine-Shaft-Packing/)


Shaft Size

Packing Size


3/4"

3/8"


7/8"

5/16"


1"

1/4"


1 1/8"

3/16"


1 1/4"

1/4"


1 3/8"

5/16"


1 1/2"

1/4"


1 3/4"

1/2"


2"

3/8"

 

On Apr 20, 2014, at 8:43 PM, Wally Bryant  wrote:





I used 3/16 on my 1-1/8 shaft.  Buck Algonquin stuffing box.

Wal

primeinterest wrote:



Any thoughts on what the typical packing size is for a 1 1/8" shaft?



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David Knecht, Ph.D.

Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility

Department of Molecular and Cell Biology

U-3125

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

University of Connecticut

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

860-486-4331 (fax)





 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island

[John Pennie]

Sorry Steve (and anyone else with red & blue stripes) - just a personal 
preference.  Really did not care for them on the gray hull.  Meant to add a 
disclaimer about that!

John

On Apr 21, 2014, at 2:10 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

> Nice work. Your hull looks great! Funny you mention red and blue stripes, I'm 
> re-doing my own red & blue stripes in .. red and blue!!!
> But my hull is white.
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 1:53 PM, Danny Haughey  wrote:
> I read you comment about listing.  I added some house batteries to my Viking 
> which created a list.  I placed them in the same cabinet the all the wires 
> went into (there was no battery at all when I bought the boat). It was a 
> tight fit but they do fit.
> 
> I liked you idea of re-placing your batteries behind the engine.  I may be 
> able to do this on my boat...maybe...
> 
> I'm going to look seriously at that.  I know it is a little tight there, 
> also, and there are lots of wires and cables running through there.  But , it 
> would be worth the effort to get rid of that list...  It would give me back 
> some much needed storage as well.
> 
> I had previously thought to move them to the "L" shaped settee aft of the 
> head, closer to the center line but, that is where the holding tank is.  I 
> had never thought of trying to place them behind the motor...  Pulling them 
> in and out might be a little tough but, its no picnic where they are now...LOL
> 
> I have not even gotten down to take the cover off of my boat yet.  I'm 
> planning this Saturday for that.
> 
> The bottom is supposed to be completely done.  I can't wait to see that and 
> grab some pics.  I had them re-do the boot strip as well and raise a bit to 
> accommodate that list I'm talking about.  I grow a little beard above the 
> line every year to the aft part of the topsides.  Maybe an inch, just at the 
> base of the blue stripe.
> 
> Thanks for the insights on your boat, these are on my "Dream Boat" wish list 
> of potential boats for maybe 10 years from now...  LOL
> 
> The cool thing is that the admiral is totally for an upgrade and would do it 
> now if we could pull it off!  So,...
> 
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> Westport Point, MA
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: John Pennie 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 11:40:37 -0400
> 
> Thanks Danny.  Its a 2000 121 (the pre epoxy years).  We�ve had her 
> for less than a year so we�re still forming an opinion but so far very 
> encouraged.  Nowhere near the quality of woodwork in the original 
> C&C�s so everything is a tradeoff.
> 
> The sail drive is a mixed bag.  They are a maintenance headache (seals, 
> painting, etc) but a lot of that may be 1 time grief as I�m new to 
> them.  Also the lack of prop walk is a mixed blessing.  I need to live with 
> it a bit longer to really decide. You do get a huge amount of additional 
> space under the cockpit that would otherwise be occupied by the shaft.  This 
> allows the builder to put things like battery banks, water heaters, etc on 
> centerline.  Vibration and noise is also reduced but not sure its at a 
> meaningful level.
> 
> Too early to say.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> On Apr 21, 2014, at 10:46 AM, Danny Haughey  wrote:
> 
> > they're showing up now!
> >
> > Nice boat!  What year is it?  How is that Saildrive working out for you?  
> > Do you like it?  Would you prefer something else?
> >
> > All in all it seems your happy with the boat.  I haven't been able to get 
> > on one of these or the 115 yet.  They never seem to have any at the boat 
> > shows.
> >
> > Danny
> >
> > -- Original Message --
> > From: John Pennie 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
> > Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 09:37:02 -0400
> >
> > Sorry, bad link.
> >
> > http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_13-14.html
> >
> > John
> >
> > On Apr 21, 2014, at 9:16 AM, Danny Haughey  wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> Hi John,
> >>
> >> For some reason I cannot see your pics...
> >>
> >> Congrats on your upcoming launch!
> >>
> >> Danny
> >> Lolita
> >> 1973 Viking 33
> >> Westport Point, MA
> >>
> >>
> >> -- Original Message --
> >> From: John Pennie 
> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >> Subject: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
> >> Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2014 17:13:19 -0400
> >>
> >> Hopefully we hit the water in about a week.  Very busy winter/spring 
> >> detailed below but very successful
> >>
> >> John
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_Project_13-14.html
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >>
> >> 
> >> Old School Yearbook Pics
> >> View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by

Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

[Bill Coleman]

I just redid my countertops and had to redo my lid, I found the perfect seal
a Lowes, believe it or not.

I still have enough to do another.  Unfortunately, the cardboard inside the
container is gone, so I cannot tell you that.

What I can tell you, is it was around 19 bucks, and is silicone, with a peel
off tape with adhesive. I don't know how they get anything to stick to the
silicone, but it was perfect. Being silicone, is shouldn't  deform.

Whoa, here it is, 

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=73604-81-68668

&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1099657&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=
nofollow&cId=PDIO1

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 9:32 AM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

 

Hello,

Not a big question, but...

I just re-finished the icebox and want to put a seal around the top under
its lid.   The lid is heavy and I was wondering what gasketing material
might withstand the weight of the top over time without compressing and
become useless.

Thanks in advance. 

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island

[Stevan Plavsa]

Nice work. Your hull looks great! Funny you mention red and blue stripes,
I'm re-doing my own red & blue stripes in .. red and blue!!!
But my hull is white.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 1:53 PM, Danny Haughey  wrote:

> I read you comment about listing.  I added some house batteries to my
> Viking which created a list.  I placed them in the same cabinet the all the
> wires went into (there was no battery at all when I bought the boat). It
> was a tight fit but they do fit.
>
> I liked you idea of re-placing your batteries behind the engine.  I may be
> able to do this on my boat...maybe...
>
> I'm going to look seriously at that.  I know it is a little tight there,
> also, and there are lots of wires and cables running through there.  But ,
> it would be worth the effort to get rid of that list...  It would give me
> back some much needed storage as well.
>
> I had previously thought to move them to the "L" shaped settee aft of the
> head, closer to the center line but, that is where the holding tank is.  I
> had never thought of trying to place them behind the motor...  Pulling them
> in and out might be a little tough but, its no picnic where they are
> now...LOL
>
> I have not even gotten down to take the cover off of my boat yet.  I'm
> planning this Saturday for that.
>
> The bottom is supposed to be completely done.  I can't wait to see that
> and grab some pics.  I had them re-do the boot strip as well and raise a
> bit to accommodate that list I'm talking about.  I grow a little beard
> above the line every year to the aft part of the topsides.  Maybe an inch,
> just at the base of the blue stripe.
>
> Thanks for the insights on your boat, these are on my "Dream Boat" wish
> list of potential boats for maybe 10 years from now...  LOL
>
> The cool thing is that the admiral is totally for an upgrade and would do
> it now if we could pull it off!  So,...
>
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> Westport Point, MA
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: John Pennie 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 11:40:37 -0400
>
> Thanks Danny.  Its a 2000 121 (the pre epoxy years).  We�ve had her
> for less than a year so we�re still forming an opinion but so far
> very encouraged.  Nowhere near the quality of woodwork in the original
> C&C�s so everything is a tradeoff.
>
> The sail drive is a mixed bag.  They are a maintenance headache (seals,
> painting, etc) but a lot of that may be 1 time grief as I�m new to
> them.  Also the lack of prop walk is a mixed blessing.  I need to live with
> it a bit longer to really decide. You do get a huge amount of additional
> space under the cockpit that would otherwise be occupied by the shaft.
>  This allows the builder to put things like battery banks, water heaters,
> etc on centerline.  Vibration and noise is also reduced but not sure its at
> a meaningful level.
>
> Too early to say.
>
> John
>
>
>
> On Apr 21, 2014, at 10:46 AM, Danny Haughey  wrote:
>
> > they're showing up now!
> >
> > Nice boat!  What year is it?  How is that Saildrive working out for you?
>  Do you like it?  Would you prefer something else?
> >
> > All in all it seems your happy with the boat.  I haven't been able to
> get on one of these or the 115 yet.  They never seem to have any at the
> boat shows.
> >
> > Danny
> >
> > -- Original Message --
> > From: John Pennie 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
> > Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 09:37:02 -0400
> >
> > Sorry, bad link.
> >
> > http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_13-14.html
> >
> > John
> >
> > On Apr 21, 2014, at 9:16 AM, Danny Haughey  wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> Hi John,
> >>
> >> For some reason I cannot see your pics...
> >>
> >> Congrats on your upcoming launch!
> >>
> >> Danny
> >> Lolita
> >> 1973 Viking 33
> >> Westport Point, MA
> >>
> >>
> >> -- Original Message --
> >> From: John Pennie 
> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >> Subject: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
> >> Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2014 17:13:19 -0400
> >>
> >> Hopefully we hit the water in about a week.  Very busy winter/spring
> detailed below but very successful
> >>
> >> John
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_Project_13-14.html
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >>
> >> 
> >> Old School Yearbook Pics
> >> View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now!
> >> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/53551a88794411a882402st03vuc
> >>
> >> ___
> >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >
> >
> > ___

Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island

[Danny Haughey]

I read you comment about listing.  I added some house batteries to my Viking 
which created a list.  I placed them in the same cabinet the all the wires went 
into (there was no battery at all when I bought the boat). It was a tight fit 
but they do fit.  

I liked you idea of re-placing your batteries behind the engine.  I may be able 
to do this on my boat...maybe...

I'm going to look seriously at that.  I know it is a little tight there, also, 
and there are lots of wires and cables running through there.  But , it would 
be worth the effort to get rid of that list...  It would give me back some much 
needed storage as well.

I had previously thought to move them to the "L" shaped settee aft of the head, 
closer to the center line but, that is where the holding tank is.  I had never 
thought of trying to place them behind the motor...  Pulling them in and out 
might be a little tough but, its no picnic where they are now...LOL

I have not even gotten down to take the cover off of my boat yet.  I'm planning 
this Saturday for that.

The bottom is supposed to be completely done.  I can't wait to see that and 
grab some pics.  I had them re-do the boot strip as well and raise a bit to 
accommodate that list I'm talking about.  I grow a little beard above the line 
every year to the aft part of the topsides.  Maybe an inch, just at the base of 
the blue stripe.

Thanks for the insights on your boat, these are on my "Dream Boat" wish list of 
potential boats for maybe 10 years from now...  LOL

The cool thing is that the admiral is totally for an upgrade and would do it 
now if we could pull it off!  So,...

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: John Pennie 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 11:40:37 -0400

Thanks Danny.  Its a 2000 121 (the pre epoxy years).  We�ve had her for 
less than a year so we�re still forming an opinion but so far very 
encouraged.  Nowhere near the quality of woodwork in the original C&C�s 
so everything is a tradeoff.

The sail drive is a mixed bag.  They are a maintenance headache (seals, 
painting, etc) but a lot of that may be 1 time grief as I�m new to them. 
 Also the lack of prop walk is a mixed blessing.  I need to live with it a bit 
longer to really decide. You do get a huge amount of additional space under the 
cockpit that would otherwise be occupied by the shaft.  This allows the builder 
to put things like battery banks, water heaters, etc on centerline.  Vibration 
and noise is also reduced but not sure its at a meaningful level.

Too early to say.

John



On Apr 21, 2014, at 10:46 AM, Danny Haughey  wrote:

> they're showing up now!
> 
> Nice boat!  What year is it?  How is that Saildrive working out for you?  Do 
> you like it?  Would you prefer something else?
> 
> All in all it seems your happy with the boat.  I haven't been able to get on 
> one of these or the 115 yet.  They never seem to have any at the boat shows.
> 
> Danny
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: John Pennie 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 09:37:02 -0400
> 
> Sorry, bad link.
> 
> http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_13-14.html
> 
> John
> 
> On Apr 21, 2014, at 9:16 AM, Danny Haughey  wrote:
> 
>> 
>> Hi John,
>> 
>> For some reason I cannot see your pics...
>> 
>> Congrats on your upcoming launch!
>> 
>> Danny
>> Lolita
>> 1973 Viking 33
>> Westport Point, MA
>> 
>> 
>> -- Original Message --
>> From: John Pennie 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
>> Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2014 17:13:19 -0400
>> 
>> Hopefully we hit the water in about a week.  Very busy winter/spring 
>> detailed below but very successful
>> 
>> John
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_Project_13-14.html
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> Old School Yearbook Pics
>> View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now!
>> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/53551a88794411a882402st03vuc
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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___

Re: Stus-List Predict wind weather routing

[davidrisch75]

Used Jennifer many times.   Given info available on web and my comparative 
analysis of paying and not paying. I will not pay for services anymore. 
FWIW.


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Colin Kilgour 
Date:04/21/2014  11:11 AM  (GMT-05:00)
To: C&C List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Predict wind weather routing

Joel,

I haven't used them so can't comment directly.  I assume you're looking for
support for the Bermuda trip?

In that neck of the woods, I've used Commanders a number of times and find
them very good.  http://www.commandersweather.com/

And if you want specific Gulf Stream advice, Jenifer Clark has a highly
specialized and well regarded service on that (or you can also get support
from Commanders) .  Jenifer's been at this long enough you would think that
she could spring for her own domain Here's her website.
http://users.erols.com/gulfstrm/

Cheers,
Colin





On Thu, Apr 17, 2014 at 8:46 AM, Joel Aronson wrote:

> Has anyone tried to use the PredictWind weather routing?  It looks
> awesome, but I wonder if it works.
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island

[John Pennie]

Thanks Danny.  Its a 2000 121 (the pre epoxy years).  We’ve had her for less 
than a year so we’re still forming an opinion but so far very encouraged.  
Nowhere near the quality of woodwork in the original C&C’s so everything is a 
tradeoff.

The sail drive is a mixed bag.  They are a maintenance headache (seals, 
painting, etc) but a lot of that may be 1 time grief as I’m new to them.  Also 
the lack of prop walk is a mixed blessing.  I need to live with it a bit longer 
to really decide. You do get a huge amount of additional space under the 
cockpit that would otherwise be occupied by the shaft.  This allows the builder 
to put things like battery banks, water heaters, etc on centerline.  Vibration 
and noise is also reduced but not sure its at a meaningful level.

Too early to say.

John



On Apr 21, 2014, at 10:46 AM, Danny Haughey  wrote:

> they're showing up now!
> 
> Nice boat!  What year is it?  How is that Saildrive working out for you?  Do 
> you like it?  Would you prefer something else?
> 
> All in all it seems your happy with the boat.  I haven't been able to get on 
> one of these or the 115 yet.  They never seem to have any at the boat shows.
> 
> Danny
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: John Pennie 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 09:37:02 -0400
> 
> Sorry, bad link.
> 
> http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_13-14.html
> 
> John
> 
> On Apr 21, 2014, at 9:16 AM, Danny Haughey  wrote:
> 
>> 
>> Hi John,
>> 
>> For some reason I cannot see your pics...
>> 
>> Congrats on your upcoming launch!
>> 
>> Danny
>> Lolita
>> 1973 Viking 33
>> Westport Point, MA
>> 
>> 
>> -- Original Message --
>> From: John Pennie 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
>> Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2014 17:13:19 -0400
>> 
>> Hopefully we hit the water in about a week.  Very busy winter/spring 
>> detailed below but very successful
>> 
>> John
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_Project_13-14.html
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> Old School Yearbook Pics
>> View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now!
>> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/53551a88794411a882402st03vuc
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com


___
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Re: Stus-List Predict wind weather routing

[Joel Aronson]

Colin,

Yes, this is for Bermuda.  We'll just follow Steve Sharkey if we can keep
up!
The RC has Lee Chesneau give a free briefing, but we are considering
supplementing that.

Thanks!

Joel


On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 11:10 AM, Colin Kilgour wrote:

> Joel,
>
> I haven't used them so can't comment directly.  I assume you're looking
> for support for the Bermuda trip?
>
> In that neck of the woods, I've used Commanders a number of times and find
> them very good.  http://www.commandersweather.com/
>
> And if you want specific Gulf Stream advice, Jenifer Clark has a highly
> specialized and well regarded service on that (or you can also get support
> from Commanders) .  Jenifer's been at this long enough you would think that
> she could spring for her own domain Here's her website.
> http://users.erols.com/gulfstrm/
>
> Cheers,
> Colin
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 17, 2014 at 8:46 AM, Joel Aronson wrote:
>
>> Has anyone tried to use the PredictWind weather routing?  It looks
>> awesome, but I wonder if it works.
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Predict wind weather routing

[Colin Kilgour]

Joel,

I haven't used them so can't comment directly.  I assume you're looking for
support for the Bermuda trip?

In that neck of the woods, I've used Commanders a number of times and find
them very good.  http://www.commandersweather.com/

And if you want specific Gulf Stream advice, Jenifer Clark has a highly
specialized and well regarded service on that (or you can also get support
from Commanders) .  Jenifer's been at this long enough you would think that
she could spring for her own domain Here's her website.
http://users.erols.com/gulfstrm/

Cheers,
Colin





On Thu, Apr 17, 2014 at 8:46 AM, Joel Aronson wrote:

> Has anyone tried to use the PredictWind weather routing?  It looks
> awesome, but I wonder if it works.
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island

[Danny Haughey]

they're showing up now!

Nice boat!  What year is it?  How is that Saildrive working out for you?  Do 
you like it?  Would you prefer something else?

All in all it seems your happy with the boat.  I haven't been able to get on 
one of these or the 115 yet.  They never seem to have any at the boat shows.

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: John Pennie 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 09:37:02 -0400

Sorry, bad link.

http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_13-14.html

John

On Apr 21, 2014, at 9:16 AM, Danny Haughey  wrote:

> 
> Hi John,
> 
> For some reason I cannot see your pics...
> 
> Congrats on your upcoming launch!
> 
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> Westport Point, MA
> 
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: John Pennie 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
> Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2014 17:13:19 -0400
> 
> Hopefully we hit the water in about a week.  Very busy winter/spring detailed 
> below but very successful
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_Project_13-14.html
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> Old School Yearbook Pics
> View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now!
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

[sthoma20]

I don't know, but I can tell you one choice which does not work for long, and 
that is EPDM foam rubber weather stripping tape.  I used that to try and at 
least partly seal my lazarette lids, and the result was as you describe. 
Permanently compressed and useless. 
 
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
 
From: davidrisc...@msn.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 09:31:55 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Ice Box seal...




Hello,

Not a big question, but...

I just re-finished the icebox and want to put a seal around the top under its 
lid.   The lid is heavy and I was wondering what gasketing material might 
withstand the weight of the top over time without compressing and become 
useless.

Thanks in advance. 

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
  

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Re: Stus-List Packing size 1 1/8 shaft

[David Knecht]

From emarineinc (http://www.emarineinc.com/categories/GFO-Marine-Shaft-Packing/)
Shaft Size  Packing Size
3/4"3/8"
7/8"5/16"
1"  1/4"
1 1/8"  3/16"
1 1/4"  1/4"
1 3/8"  5/16"
1 1/2"  1/4"
1 3/4"  1/2"
2"  3/8"

On Apr 20, 2014, at 8:43 PM, Wally Bryant  wrote:

> I used 3/16 on my 1-1/8 shaft.  Buck Algonquin stuffing box.
> 
> Wal
> 
> primeinterest wrote:
>> Any thoughts on what the typical packing size is for a 1 1/8" shaft?
> 
> 
> ___
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David Knecht, Ph.D.
Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility
Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
U-3125
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
University of Connecticut
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200
860-486-4331 (fax)





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Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island

[Joel Aronson]

Nicely done!  Hope you splash soon!

Joel
Annapolis


On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 9:37 AM, John Pennie  wrote:

> Sorry, bad link.
>
> http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_13-14.html
>
> John
>
> On Apr 21, 2014, at 9:16 AM, Danny Haughey  wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi John,
> >
> > For some reason I cannot see your pics...
> >
> > Congrats on your upcoming launch!
> >
> > Danny
> > Lolita
> > 1973 Viking 33
> > Westport Point, MA
> >
> >
> > -- Original Message --
> > From: John Pennie 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
> > Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2014 17:13:19 -0400
> >
> > Hopefully we hit the water in about a week.  Very busy winter/spring
> detailed below but very successful
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> > http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_Project_13-14.html
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >
> > 
> > Old School Yearbook Pics
> > View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now!
> > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/53551a88794411a882402st03vuc
> >
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Handicaps again

[Jim Reinardy]

Gary,


Ours get reset to the spinnaker PHRF at the start of each season, we only race 
one series per year.  We subtract PHRF for winners and add for slower boats.  
There is always a discussion about carrying this over, but it generally does 
not get very far.  We had a particularly good season several years ago and lost 
over 50 handicap points by the midpoint, so it can make a substantial 
difference.  At that point, I was getting corrected over by boats I could not 
even see behind me, so I have never been a supporter of carryover in our fleet.


Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI






Sent from Windows Mail





From: Gary Nylander
Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎April‎ ‎21‎, ‎2014 ‎8‎:‎27‎ ‎AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com





Some of you have mentioned sliding handicaps where the winners (and sometimes 
the last place boat) get 'adjusted'. When that is done, how long do they keep 
doing the adjusting? One year, one series? forever?

 

Gary

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Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island

[John Pennie]

Sorry, bad link.

http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_13-14.html

John

On Apr 21, 2014, at 9:16 AM, Danny Haughey  wrote:

> 
> Hi John,
> 
> For some reason I cannot see your pics...
> 
> Congrats on your upcoming launch!
> 
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> Westport Point, MA
> 
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: John Pennie 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
> Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2014 17:13:19 -0400
> 
> Hopefully we hit the water in about a week.  Very busy winter/spring detailed 
> below but very successful
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_Project_13-14.html
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> Old School Yearbook Pics
> View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/53551a88794411a882402st03vuc
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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Stus-List Ice Box seal...

[David]

Hello,

Not a big question, but...

I just re-finished the icebox and want to put a seal around the top under its 
lid.   The lid is heavy and I was wondering what gasketing material might 
withstand the weight of the top over time without compressing and become 
useless.

Thanks in advance. 

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
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Stus-List Handicaps again

[Gary Nylander]

Some of you have mentioned sliding handicaps where the winners (and sometimes 
the last place boat) get 'adjusted'. When that is done, how long do they keep 
doing the adjusting? One year, one series? forever?

Gary
Maryland___
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Re: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island

[Danny Haughey]

Hi John,

For some reason I cannot see your pics...

Congrats on your upcoming launch!

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA


-- Original Message --
From: John Pennie 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Almost ready to launch in Long Island
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2014 17:13:19 -0400

Hopefully we hit the water in about a week.  Very busy winter/spring detailed 
below but very successful

John



http://svpaws.net/Site/Winter_Project_13-14.html



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Old School Yearbook Pics
View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/53551a88794411a882402st03vuc

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