Re: Stus-List Rechargeable C cell batteries - Nicro solar vent

2014-11-08 Thread dwight veinot via CnC-List
I installed a Nicro 4 inch solar vent in Alianna this past summer.  It
seemed to run 24/7 all summer long after I turned it on following 3 days of
initial charging in bright sunlight.  I was at the boat yesterday afternoon
and noticed that the fan had stopped.  We have had a fair bit of dull rainy
weather around here lately and of course daylight hours have decreased
considerably as the seasons changed so I expect there was not enough
sunlight to keep the battery fully charged.  I had hoped that the fan would
run all winter long to keep the air inside the boat fresh during layup so I
intentionally modified my tarp to allow full access of the collectors to
the daylight sun and I left the fan in the on position. Better interior
ventialtion during winter storage was one of the main reason that I
installed this solar vent but now there does not seem to be enough light to
keep the cells fully charged.  I am wondering if leaving the vent in the
on position to use up whatever level of charge it aquires under such
conditions may be doing long term damage to the recahrgeable battery and I
wonder if I should keep it turned off during winter storage.  Any advice
appreciated.  Thanks

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Fri, Nov 7, 2014 at 12:49 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Jim,

 Is it still running at 5 or 6 am?  That's important because that's when I
 think the highest potential for condensation is.

 Dennis C.

 On Thu, Nov 6, 2014 at 10:34 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I have been running my Nicro vent on an Energizer 2500 mAh C cell for...I
 dunno, 4 or 5 years. It's pretty dark here a lot of the winter, and I have
 had no issues.

 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC

 On 6 November 2014 14:28, jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

   Dennis,
 The Tenergy brand have a good reputation with the R/C crowd. I would
 recommend sticking to NiCd type batteries for this application. They have a
 lower capacity than NiMH but usually hold up much better. Tenergy makes a
 3500mAh C-cell. A good source for quality batteries is your local hobby
 shop (one that deals with R/C planes, not a chain type hobby store). The
 rechargeable batteries you typically find at chain stores are low quality
 junk and more expensive to boot!
 James


  *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Thursday, November 06, 2014 1:53 PM
 *To:* CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List Rechargeable C cell batteries - Nicro solar vent

 The battery on my new style Nicro solar vent finally died (Nicro
 model N20703S).  Seemed to last the 3-5 years in Nicro's literature.

 The manual states at least 2800 mAh C cell is needed.  I replaced it
 with a Nuon 3000 mAh C cell from a local battery store.  Now I'm
 researching them and find Nuon batteries don't get good reviews.

 Be interested in hearing listers experiences with other brands.  Other
 brands are Powerizer, Tenergy, GLE, etc.  *Note*:  Must be *minimum *2800
 MaH.  (For example: Energizers are only 2500).

 I'm assuming that less than 2800 would work but wouldn't work well in
 winter.  Short days, long nights and cold temps would probably cause energy
 to run out in the wee hours.

 FYI:  Changing the battery in the new style Nicro vents is a PIA.  After
 you remove the 3 mounting screws, you have carefully pry the solar panels
 up to reveal the battery and change it.  Flexing the panel is likely to
 crack it.

 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List 38-3 for sale in CT

2014-11-08 Thread John and Maryann Read via CnC-List
This is Crystal Slipper.  Know the boat and owner well.  Raced the local 
circuit extensively.  VERY well maintained, all the goodies, excellent sails.  
Owner’s health forces sale.  Definitely on the “A” list for this model



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 CC 34

Noank, CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2014 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 38-3 for sale in CT



I haven't seen the boat directly, but this boat has a reputation of being well 
looked after and very well sailed (no affiliation).  I only post it because it 
appears well maintained and very well equipped.  Hmmm, might be a nice swap for 
Mojito...



http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1986/C%26C-38-Mark-III-2785710/Noank/CT/United-States#.VFz_EvnHk1I



Tim

Mojito
CC 35-3

Branford, CT



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Re: Stus-List Rechargeable C cell batteries - Nicro solar vent

2014-11-08 Thread Steve Thomas via CnC-List
   It won't hurt your battery to leave it partly or completely discharged, 
mainly because it is a single cell, and there is no risk of cell reversal 
during discharge as is the case in a battery pack. Nickel cadmiums and nickel 
metal hydrides are similar in this respect. 

  The following link includes storage recommendations by several different 
manufacturers for several different battery chemistries. 

  Steve Thomas
  CC27 MKIII
  Port Stanley, ON


  - Original Message - 
  From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
  To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2014 5:20 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Rechargeable C cell batteries - Nicro solar vent


  I installed a Nicro 4 inch solar vent in Alianna this past summer.  It seemed 
to run 24/7 all summer long after I turned it on following 3 days of initial 
charging in bright sunlight.  I was at the boat yesterday afternoon and noticed 
that the fan had stopped.  We have had a fair bit of dull rainy weather around 
here lately and of course daylight hours have decreased considerably as the 
seasons changed so I expect there was not enough sunlight to keep the battery 
fully charged.  I had hoped that the fan would run all winter long to keep the 
air inside the boat fresh during layup so I intentionally modified my tarp to 
allow full access of the collectors to the daylight sun and I left the fan in 
the on position. Better interior ventialtion during winter storage was one of 
the main reason that I installed this solar vent but now there does not seem to 
be enough light to keep the cells fully charged.  I am wondering if leaving the 
vent in the on position to use up whatever level of charge it aquires under 
such conditions may be doing long term damage to the recahrgeable battery and I 
wonder if I should keep it turned off during winter storage.  Any advice 
appreciated.  Thanks



  Dwight Veinot

  CC 35 MKII, Alianna

  Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

  d.ve...@bellaliant.net




  On Fri, Nov 7, 2014 at 12:49 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Jim,

Is it still running at 5 or 6 am?  That's important because that's when I 
think the highest potential for condensation is.  


Dennis C.



On Thu, Nov 6, 2014 at 10:34 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I have been running my Nicro vent on an Energizer 2500 mAh C cell for...I 
dunno, 4 or 5 years. It's pretty dark here a lot of the winter, and I have had 
no issues. 



  Jim Watts
  Paradigm Shift
  CC 35 Mk III
  Victoria, BC



  On 6 November 2014 14:28, jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Dennis,
The Tenergy brand have a good reputation with the R/C crowd. I would 
recommend sticking to NiCd type batteries for this application. They have a 
lower capacity than NiMH but usually hold up much better. Tenergy makes a 
3500mAh C-cell. A good source for quality batteries is your local hobby shop 
(one that deals with R/C planes, not a chain type hobby store). The 
rechargeable batteries you typically find at chain stores are low quality junk 
and more expensive to boot!
James


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 1:53 PM
To: CnClist 
Subject: Stus-List Rechargeable C cell batteries - Nicro solar vent

The battery on my new style Nicro solar vent finally died (Nicro model 
N20703S).  Seemed to last the 3-5 years in Nicro's literature.


The manual states at least 2800 mAh C cell is needed.  I replaced it 
with a Nuon 3000 mAh C cell from a local battery store.  Now I'm researching 
them and find Nuon batteries don't get good reviews.  


Be interested in hearing listers experiences with other brands.  Other 
brands are Powerizer, Tenergy, GLE, etc.  Note:  Must be minimum 2800 MaH.  
(For example: Energizers are only 2500).  


I'm assuming that less than 2800 would work but wouldn't work well in 
winter.  Short days, long nights and cold temps would probably cause energy to 
run out in the wee hours.


FYI:  Changing the battery in the new style Nicro vents is a PIA.  
After you remove the 3 mounting screws, you have carefully pry the solar panels 
up to reveal the battery and change it.  Flexing the panel is likely to crack 
it.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA




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Re: Stus-List Rechargeable C cell batteries - Nicro solar vent

2014-11-08 Thread Steve Thomas via CnC-List
Oops.  Here is the link:

 http://www.powerstream.com/Storage.htm

 Original Message - 
  From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
  To: dwight veinot ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2014 9:08 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Rechargeable C cell batteries - Nicro solar vent


 It won't hurt your battery to leave it partly or completely discharged, 
mainly because it is a single cell, and there is no risk of cell reversal 
during discharge as is the case in a battery pack. Nickel cadmiums and nickel 
metal hydrides are similar in this respect. 

The following link includes storage recommendations by several different 
manufacturers for several different battery chemistries. 

Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


- Original Message - 
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2014 5:20 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rechargeable C cell batteries - Nicro solar vent


I installed a Nicro 4 inch solar vent in Alianna this past summer.  It 
seemed to run 24/7 all summer long after I turned it on following 3 days of 
initial charging in bright sunlight.  I was at the boat yesterday afternoon and 
noticed that the fan had stopped.  We have had a fair bit of dull rainy weather 
around here lately and of course daylight hours have decreased considerably as 
the seasons changed so I expect there was not enough sunlight to keep the 
battery fully charged.  I had hoped that the fan would run all winter long to 
keep the air inside the boat fresh during layup so I intentionally modified my 
tarp to allow full access of the collectors to the daylight sun and I left the 
fan in the on position. Better interior ventialtion during winter storage was 
one of the main reason that I installed this solar vent but now there does not 
seem to be enough light to keep the cells fully charged.  I am wondering if 
leaving the vent in the on position to use up whatever level of charge it 
aquires under such conditions may be doing long term damage to the recahrgeable 
battery and I wonder if I should keep it turned off during winter storage.  Any 
advice appreciated.  Thanks



Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net




On Fri, Nov 7, 2014 at 12:49 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Jim,

  Is it still running at 5 or 6 am?  That's important because that's when I 
think the highest potential for condensation is.  


  Dennis C.



  On Thu, Nov 6, 2014 at 10:34 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I have been running my Nicro vent on an Energizer 2500 mAh C cell 
for...I dunno, 4 or 5 years. It's pretty dark here a lot of the winter, and I 
have had no issues. 



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



On 6 November 2014 14:28, jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

  Dennis,
  The Tenergy brand have a good reputation with the R/C crowd. I would 
recommend sticking to NiCd type batteries for this application. They have a 
lower capacity than NiMH but usually hold up much better. Tenergy makes a 
3500mAh C-cell. A good source for quality batteries is your local hobby shop 
(one that deals with R/C planes, not a chain type hobby store). The 
rechargeable batteries you typically find at chain stores are low quality junk 
and more expensive to boot!
  James


  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
  Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 1:53 PM
  To: CnClist 
  Subject: Stus-List Rechargeable C cell batteries - Nicro solar vent

  The battery on my new style Nicro solar vent finally died (Nicro 
model N20703S).  Seemed to last the 3-5 years in Nicro's literature.


  The manual states at least 2800 mAh C cell is needed.  I replaced it 
with a Nuon 3000 mAh C cell from a local battery store.  Now I'm researching 
them and find Nuon batteries don't get good reviews.  


  Be interested in hearing listers experiences with other brands.  
Other brands are Powerizer, Tenergy, GLE, etc.  Note:  Must be minimum 2800 
MaH.  (For example: Energizers are only 2500).  


  I'm assuming that less than 2800 would work but wouldn't work well in 
winter.  Short days, long nights and cold temps would probably cause energy to 
run out in the wee hours.


  FYI:  Changing the battery in the new style Nicro vents is a PIA.  
After you remove the 3 mounting screws, you have carefully pry the solar panels 
up to reveal the battery and change it.  Flexing the panel is likely to crack 
it.


  Dennis C.

  Touche' 35-1 #83

  Mandeville, LA



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Stus-List CC 38 MK III Info

2014-11-08 Thread Doug Allardyce via CnC-List
I'm looking at a 1987 CC 38 MK III with a wing keel. Does anyone out there
have any experience on how the upwind performance is with the wing keel at
5' 6 draft vs the full keel at 7' 7 draft. I understand that the full keel
model will probably point better, I'm just trying to get a feel for what I
might be giving up with the wing. Also curious to know how tender the boat
might be. Plan to do some casual club racing.

Doug
_/)~~~_/) 



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Stus-List Lions and tigers and bears, Oh MyWas Approved LED bulbs

2014-11-08 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
Yes. The COLREGS specify 12m (39.4') as the upper limit for using an
all-around light on a power boat. I suppose that makes sense because for a
boat of 12 meters or more, there is a difference in the required visibility
of the stern light and masthead light, vs the all-around white light used
for anchor, aground, and various other light patterns. To meet those
visibility requirement, the all-around white light you use for anchoring
would need to be one designed for a boat over 50 meters.

But remember, if you use your all-around white light when motoring, you need
a way to turn off the stern light that you need to show when sailing.

With all the discussion about LEDs and running lights and steaming lights
and tri-color lights (Oh My!), it occurs to me that one configuration that
might be attractive to several folks on the list has not been mentioned.

Rule 25A specifies sidelights and a stern light when sailing, and 25B
species a tri-color at the top of the mast in place of the deck level lights
for sailboats under 20 meters.

But rule 25C allows a red all-around light over a green all-around light at
the top of the mast IN ADDITION TO the deck level running lights for a
sailboat of any length. Hence the mnemonic Red over Green, I'm a sailing
machine. This configuration seems to be a solution which provides
visibility at longer range when near coastal or in sloppy waves, but still
keeps lights down low where those on small power boats are more apt to
notice them.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2014 3:13 PM
To: Edd Schillay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

He mentions 26ft as a cutoff in his narrative, but it's 12m in the
literature.  I'm presuming the 12m is correct for the single all around
white light for motoring.
Ron
Wild Cheri



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Re: Stus-List Lions and tigers and bears, Oh MyWas Approved LED bulbs

2014-11-08 Thread Gary Nylander via CnC-List
Some friends who have done multiple Newport-Bermuda races have your last 
configuration. They say it increases visibility.


Gary
- Original Message - 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To: 'Ronald B. Frerker' rbfrer...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2014 1:22 PM
Subject: Stus-List Lions and tigers and bears, Oh MyWas Approved LED bulbs



Yes. The COLREGS specify 12m (39.4') as the upper limit for using an
all-around light on a power boat. I suppose that makes sense because for a
boat of 12 meters or more, there is a difference in the required 
visibility

of the stern light and masthead light, vs the all-around white light used
for anchor, aground, and various other light patterns. To meet those
visibility requirement, the all-around white light you use for anchoring
would need to be one designed for a boat over 50 meters.

But remember, if you use your all-around white light when motoring, you 
need

a way to turn off the stern light that you need to show when sailing.

With all the discussion about LEDs and running lights and steaming lights
and tri-color lights (Oh My!), it occurs to me that one configuration that
might be attractive to several folks on the list has not been mentioned.

Rule 25A specifies sidelights and a stern light when sailing, and 25B
species a tri-color at the top of the mast in place of the deck level 
lights

for sailboats under 20 meters.

But rule 25C allows a red all-around light over a green all-around light 
at

the top of the mast IN ADDITION TO the deck level running lights for a
sailboat of any length. Hence the mnemonic Red over Green, I'm a sailing
machine. This configuration seems to be a solution which provides
visibility at longer range when near coastal or in sloppy waves, but still
keeps lights down low where those on small power boats are more apt to
notice them.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald 
B.

Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2014 3:13 PM
To: Edd Schillay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

He mentions 26ft as a cutoff in his narrative, but it's 12m in the
literature.  I'm presuming the 12m is correct for the single all around
white light for motoring.
Ron
Wild Cheri



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Re: Stus-List Garden Lights and totally irrelevant

2014-11-08 Thread Wally Bryant via CnC-List
Well, I was talking about at anchor, where the primary concern is making 
sure somebody doesn't run into your boat.


But actually at the dock I like them at the bow and stern too.  It keeps 
people from walking into my anchor when I'm in a slip that's too short, 
or when the cleats are set up in the wrong place.  It also keeps people 
from walking off the dock near my boat.  I've helped fish a body from 
the water in a marina, and it's not fun. They aren't *that* bright, and 
in fact are worthless as cockpit lights except during late night rap 
sessions.


Wal

you wrote:

I'm at the dock. Live aboards don't like this they say too many lights.



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Re: Stus-List back to the original --- Anchor question

2014-11-08 Thread Wally Bryant via CnC-List
I have a copy of Hinz's 'the complete book of anchoring and mooring' on 
board.  A few years ago, when I was trying to get a few inches of 
waterline back, I gave away my Ashley's complete knots and JR's 
Annapolis book of Seamanship.  (I kept Chapman's and Hinz's.)


Anchors are like religion.

You said that Rocnas are on sale.  I have one.  It's over sized for my 
boat, and has held me in 50K with gusts to 70, and I'm not 
embellishing.  A few boats ended up on the beach/rocks that day, and one 
guy blew up his engine trying to stay off the beach.  I took a nap.  
Really.  (I was 20 miles away from the nearest boat, and wasn't dragging 
and no one could drag into me, so what the heck.)  I normally let out 
1.5 scope and let it set, then lay out more rode and back down on it.  
It has failed to grab on the first try twice. Once when the bottom was 
covered with sea grass, and the second time when the bottom was covered 
with small rocks.  Those bottoms are a challenge for any anchor.  I also 
like the roll bar, as I believe that it helps keep the rode from fouling 
on the anchor when the boat spins around on top of it during tide and 
current changes.


That said, I've had a 22 pound Danforth off the stern hold the boat fine 
in 25 knots when the wind changed.  The bottom was good sand.


The comment about getting the right anchor for where and how you sail is 
also right on.  If you just need a lunch hook, and never intend to leave 
the boat at anchor or sleep soundly at night, or can predict the weather 
with 100 percent accuracy, then you can choose/size an anchor 
appropriately.  Beyond a doubt the anchor must be manageable, and if you 
don't have a windlass then your options will be constrained.


Note that all anchor manufacturers will make recommendations that make 
that anchor look best.  If they recommend a bigger anchor they will 
create the impression that the anchor isn't as good as the competitor 
who recommends a smaller anchor, and could lose a sale. I probably could 
have followed Rocna's recommendation for my size/displacement boat, but 
wasn't willing to bet my boat and life on it.


As a final note, it's November, when the snowbirds and new folks show 
up.  I also call it 'anchor dragging season,' when folks learn that the 
anchor they have doesn't actually hold except in calm conditions.


Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Anchor question

2014-11-08 Thread Wally Bryant via CnC-List

Josh -

Well, my LF38 is actually only 37.6.  Here's how I did it.  Note that 
the windlass and mounting is over engineered.  That's come in handy as I 
single hand, and pull up to anchor with the windlass and against the 
wind (against all recommendations) and have only stalled it once.  That 
was when I discovered that I'd spent the night anchored on an enormous 
abandoned drift net that was laying on the bottom, and I pulled the 
whole net up along with the anchor.  This stuff really happens.  The 
real trick to pulling the boat up with the windlass is to run the 
windlass in short bursts, working with the chop or waves.  Run the motor 
with the bow goes down, and let the sea pull the boat forward on the 
upstroke.  I lube the bearings annually, but I use it a lot.


http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/gtackle/windlass/index.htm

Wal


you wrote:

While we're on the topic of anchors, how do those of you with windlasses
have then mounted.  I've considered one but can't figure out a good
solution for my 37+.  Pictures would be awsome.



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Stus-List advice on oil filter brands

2014-11-08 Thread Eric Frank via CnC-List
I remember a discussion about which brands of oil filters were better (and 
worse).  In the days I changed the filter in my car myself, I always used Fram 
because it was easy to find, but I remember from this list that was not a good 
make.  Suggestions? This is for a 1980’s Perkins 30 HP diesel, probably less 
than 20 hours per year.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List advice on oil filter brands

2014-11-08 Thread dwight veinot via CnC-List
less than 20 hours per year...if your filter needs changing then your
engine is in bad shape...that said I use NAPA Gold

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Sat, Nov 8, 2014 at 6:50 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I remember a discussion about which brands of oil filters were better (and
 worse).  In the days I changed the filter in my car myself, I always used
 Fram because it was easy to find, but I remember from this list that was
 not a good make.  Suggestions? This is for a 1980’s Perkins 30 HP diesel,
 probably less than 20 hours per year.

 Eric Frank
 Cat's Paw
 CC 35 Mk II
 Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List advice on oil filter brands

2014-11-08 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Are you sure you want to ask questions like this.  We're sure to have a
debate.  1, 2, 3, go!

I am pretty much sold on Amsoil and all of their products.  That being said
I still look closely at their product specs.  I have not been able to find
a better filter than OEM for my Yanmar.  In lew of Amsoil, NAPA Gold, Wix,
or Purolator Pure 1 are all competitively good.  I try to compare media
type, square inches, end plate material and method of attachment, bypass
valve pressure, valve spring design, drain back valve material and finally
the burst pressure.

I would avoid at all costs a standard fram oil filter.  Period.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
I remember a discussion about which brands of oil filters were better (and
worse).  In the days I changed the filter in my car myself, I always used
Fram because it was easy to find, but I remember from this list that was
not a good make.  Suggestions? This is for a 1980's Perkins 30 HP diesel,
probably less than 20 hours per year.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List advice on oil filter brands

2014-11-08 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
FYI I use WIX on my wife's car. The guy at the parts store said WIX  Fram.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2014 8:32 PM
To: Eric Frank; CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List advice on oil filter brands


Are you sure you want to ask questions like this.  We're sure to have a debate. 
 1, 2, 3, go!

I am pretty much sold on Amsoil and all of their products.  That being said I 
still look closely at their product specs.  I have not been able to find a 
better filter than OEM for my Yanmar.  In lew of Amsoil, NAPA Gold, Wix, or 
Purolator Pure 1 are all competitively good.  I try to compare media type, 
square inches, end plate material and method of attachment, bypass valve 
pressure, valve spring design, drain back valve material and finally the burst 
pressure.

I would avoid at all costs a standard fram oil filter.  Period.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
I remember a discussion about which brands of oil filters were better (and 
worse).  In the days I changed the filter in my car myself, I always used Fram 
because it was easy to find, but I remember from this list that was not a good 
make.  Suggestions? This is for a 1980's Perkins 30 HP diesel, probably less 
than 20 hours per year.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List advice on oil filter brands

2014-11-08 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
I use KN filters.  I'd use them on my car and truck if I changed their oil
myself.

Dennis C
On Nov 8, 2014 2:51 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 I remember a discussion about which brands of oil filters were better (and
 worse).  In the days I changed the filter in my car myself, I always used
 Fram because it was easy to find, but I remember from this list that was
 not a good make.  Suggestions? This is for a 1980’s Perkins 30 HP diesel,
 probably less than 20 hours per year.

 Eric Frank
 Cat's Paw
 CC 35 Mk II
 Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Lions and tigers and bears, Oh MyWas Approved LED bulbs

2014-11-08 Thread Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
But where can you FIND a red over green?

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2014 1:22 PM
To: 'Ronald B. Frerker'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Lions and tigers and bears, Oh MyWas Approved LED bulbs

Yes. The COLREGS specify 12m (39.4') as the upper limit for using an
all-around light on a power boat. I suppose that makes sense because for a
boat of 12 meters or more, there is a difference in the required visibility
of the stern light and masthead light, vs the all-around white light used
for anchor, aground, and various other light patterns. To meet those
visibility requirement, the all-around white light you use for anchoring
would need to be one designed for a boat over 50 meters.

But remember, if you use your all-around white light when motoring, you need
a way to turn off the stern light that you need to show when sailing.

With all the discussion about LEDs and running lights and steaming lights
and tri-color lights (Oh My!), it occurs to me that one configuration that
might be attractive to several folks on the list has not been mentioned.

Rule 25A specifies sidelights and a stern light when sailing, and 25B
species a tri-color at the top of the mast in place of the deck level lights
for sailboats under 20 meters.

But rule 25C allows a red all-around light over a green all-around light at
the top of the mast IN ADDITION TO the deck level running lights for a
sailboat of any length. Hence the mnemonic Red over Green, I'm a sailing
machine. This configuration seems to be a solution which provides
visibility at longer range when near coastal or in sloppy waves, but still
keeps lights down low where those on small power boats are more apt to
notice them.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2014 3:13 PM
To: Edd Schillay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

He mentions 26ft as a cutoff in his narrative, but it's 12m in the
literature.  I'm presuming the 12m is correct for the single all around
white light for motoring.
Ron
Wild Cheri



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Re: Stus-List Lions and tigers and bears, Oh MyWas Approved LED bulbs

2014-11-08 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
I suppose you can just reverse the stack up of the lenses to get the proper
red over green.

But it is pretty obvious that the guy (or girl) who wrote the catalog copy
for this item was not a knowledgeable boater (though I guess that could
still mean he/she is a power boater). Certified for use on sail and Power
Driven vessels under 20 meters. 

Really? 

For a light combination designed to tell other boaters you are a sailboat?

Either my tolerance for stupidity is too low, or I've not had enough rum
this evening. Maybe I should follow Wally's example and switch to tequila.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2014 11:57 PM
To: 'Joe Della Barba'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lions and tigers and bears, Oh MyWas Approved LED
bulbs

I found these, but they seem to be upside down:
http://www.perko.com/catalog/navigation_lights_under_20_meters/895/green_red
_all-round_navigation_light/ 

Marek

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della
Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2014 11:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lions and tigers and bears, Oh MyWas Approved LED
bulbs

But where can you FIND a red over green?

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2014 1:22 PM
To: 'Ronald B. Frerker'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Lions and tigers and bears, Oh MyWas Approved LED bulbs

Yes. The COLREGS specify 12m (39.4') as the upper limit for using an
all-around light on a power boat. I suppose that makes sense because for a
boat of 12 meters or more, there is a difference in the required visibility
of the stern light and masthead light, vs the all-around white light used
for anchor, aground, and various other light patterns. To meet those
visibility requirement, the all-around white light you use for anchoring
would need to be one designed for a boat over 50 meters.

But remember, if you use your all-around white light when motoring, you need
a way to turn off the stern light that you need to show when sailing.

With all the discussion about LEDs and running lights and steaming lights
and tri-color lights (Oh My!), it occurs to me that one configuration that
might be attractive to several folks on the list has not been mentioned.

Rule 25A specifies sidelights and a stern light when sailing, and 25B
species a tri-color at the top of the mast in place of the deck level lights
for sailboats under 20 meters.

But rule 25C allows a red all-around light over a green all-around light at
the top of the mast IN ADDITION TO the deck level running lights for a
sailboat of any length. Hence the mnemonic Red over Green, I'm a sailing
machine. This configuration seems to be a solution which provides
visibility at longer range when near coastal or in sloppy waves, but still
keeps lights down low where those on small power boats are more apt to
notice them.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2014 3:13 PM
To: Edd Schillay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

He mentions 26ft as a cutoff in his narrative, but it's 12m in the
literature.  I'm presuming the 12m is correct for the single all around
white light for motoring.
Ron
Wild Cheri



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