Re: Stus-List Hand crank vs Starter battery
Sent from my iPad On Feb 3, 2015, at 7:32 PM, D Harben via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On my CC29-1 A4 I had a crank handle... but the standard install restricted the swing to about 1/2 turn ... so I decided to give the handle away and keep my hands and arms in one piece... Don On Feb 3, 2015, at 11:34 AM, Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Today's discussion about a electrical batter connections and starting batteries reminded me that there is reference to a starting crank handle in my Atomic4 manual. I used to have a staring crank with my old Land Rover that was always entertaining to use, but surprisingly easy way to start the truck if the starter or battery failed. Does anyone have experience with hand cranking the Atomic4? Jay CC30-1 Lady Jane Oakville, Ontario ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rigging Question
As I understand, this system is to keep the collar (and deck) from rising due to the upward force of the halyard blocks which are attached to the collar. Without them the collar is free to slide up the mast. Is there a way to pass a bolt(s) through the collar and mast to keep the collar from rising? I seem to recall seeing that on a boat or two. Or perhaps a bolt or bolts into the mast immediately above the collar? Another option is to move the blocks to the mast from the collar. Touche's halyard turning blocks are all fastened to the mast. Neither the collar nor the deck carry any load. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rigging Question
Tim, I have a 1987 35-3 thruhull#231 and my hooks have 2 3/8ths bolts thru the hooks and mast, and there are no sleeves inside the mast. I presume some earlier boats were made with single bolts and that was not enough.The nuts are only snugged up so as to prevent any motion. So get out your long 3/8ths bit and go to it!!! Good luck. Lee -Original Message- From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tue, Feb 3, 2015 3:44 pm Subject: Stus-List Rigging Question There was mention recently of 'hooks that insert into the mast collar then bolt to the mast to hold the deck down when running rigging is under tension. On my 35-3, the bolt through the mast has started to tear at the mast column and elongate the holes. I could change the length of the hooks and create another hole somewhere else on the mast. In that case, has anyone used a sleeve to stop the relatively small bolt sawing at the mast tube? Does anyone have any other solutions out there (e.g. wire to the mast step each side)? Thanks, Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 3GM Transmission
Hi Dave, I had my transmission rebuilt two years ago. At $1,750 (including removal, reinstallation, shipping and rebuild) it was not something to do without some more troubleshooting. I had a 2-blade non-geared Martec on Mojito that was terrible at opening when moving even after a rebuild (sounding like your issues) - I swapped to a Flexofold and am very happy with the results. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Mon, Feb 2, 2015 at 9:46 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: *My 1984, 35 MKIII has its original Yanmar 3GM and a 1984 Martec folding prop. I was experiencing really bad vibration at the end of the season as if the prop wasn’t opening or as if only 1 of the 2 blades was unfolding. I’d put it in reverse (during which there was never any of the vibration) then put it into forward quickly and hard and after several attempts it would usually be OK until I slowed down like when approaching the mooring and then it would happen again.* *I sent the prop back to Martec to get it refurbished and when speaking to them they suggested that although the prop was in need of refurbishment that the vibration I was experiencing might be due to the engine clutch slipping. When I asked a Yanmar repair guy about that he said that might indeed be the issue. Apparently the only way I’m going to be able to tell if the refurbished prop was the cause is when its back on the shaft and the boat’s back in the water. Since I really don’t want to miss any of the short season, racing beginning just a few weeks after the boat’s back in the water and the cost and hassle of pulling the boat out again after it’s launched in the spring, I’m leaning towards taking prevent yanking the transmission out, bringing it to a shop and having it rebuilt.* *Have any of you had this experience? Has having the prop fixed/replaced always solved the issue? Or, is there a good possibility that it is indeed the transmission? Any experience and/or advice the group can provide would be greatly appreciated.* *Dave* *Saltaire* *Bristol, RI.* ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Helm seat / boarding ramp
Very Cool - A self-storing Med-Moor Ramp! Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via CnC-List Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 11:27 PM To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list Subject: Stus-List Helm seat / boarding ramp To see my new winter project, a helm seat / boarding ramp, go to: https://www.flickr.com/photos/119825754@N05/ Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 3GM Transmission
I had the same problem. I bought a new cone, and installed it, but still had the same problem. Then I discovered that there was too much play in the shifting. In other words, when I disconnected the shaft, I could move the transmission coupling forward and back, which allowed the cone to slip. I corrected it by installing a shim in the transmission. Problem solved. You might try that first. When you disassemble the transmission, inspect the cone to see whether it still has grooves or whether it's smooth. If you need a new cone, I still have the one I bought for $285 plus $12 shipping from Georgia. You can have it for $250 including shipping. My transmission is a Kanzai KH-A. Engine is a 3GMF. Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR My 1984, 35 MKIII has its original Yanmar 3GM and a 1984 Martec folding prop. I was experiencing really bad vibration at the end of the season as if the prop wasn’t opening or as if only 1 of the 2 blades was unfolding. I’d put it in reverse (during which there was never any of the vibration) then put it into forward quickly and hard and after several attempts it would usually be OK until I slowed down like when approaching the mooring and then it would happen again. I sent the prop back to Martec to get it refurbished and when speaking to them they suggested that although the prop was in need of refurbishment that the vibration I was experiencing might be due to the engine clutch slipping. When I asked a Yanmar repair guy about that he said that might indeed be the issue. Apparently the only way I’m going to be able to tell if the refurbished prop was the cause is when its back on the shaft and the boat’s back in the water. Since I really don’t want to miss any of the short season, racing beginning just a few weeks after the boat’s back in the water and the cost and hassle of pulling the boat out again after it’s launched in the spring, I’m leaning towards taking prevent yanking the transmission out, bringing it to a shop and having it rebuilt. Have any of you had this experience? Has having the prop fixed/replaced always solved the issue? Or, is there a good possibility that it is indeed the transmission? Any experience and/or advice the group can provide would be greatly appreciated. Dave Saltaire Bristol, RI. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Mounting Outboard Bracket
I want to mount a Garelick bracket on my stearn to support a Yamaha 9.9 4 stroke. I've seen at least on CC 26' with an outboard; anyone have any experience mounting and anything unusual that I can expect? Probably better off having it done by a professional, any opinions? Dan Utinske CC 26' Only Time ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List State of the Battery
I previously posted about my Link Lite battery monitor, about which I am really satisfied. Adding to my earlier comments, recalibration is a built in process on the Link Pro and Link Lite. When the monitor senses that the battery bank has been fully charged, the display flashes Synchronize. You then press a couple of the buttons simultaneously, and the monitor recalibrates to determine the Amp Hours that are 100% capacity. So as the capacity reduces over time, the 100% value also reduces. There is some time variable in how often it does this, but I would need to read the manual to see what it is. I suppose they use Synchronize because it might be less confusing than reset or recalibrate. The display also flashes a warning as you approach 50% discharge. Does not mean that you will pay attention, or that you will not ignore the warning in a moment of being over served. There is provision for an audible alarm to get your attention, but I've never felt the need to install one. I don't see any Link Lite kits on EBay right now, but the Link Pro is available for $225. http://www.ebay.com/itm/XANTREX-LINK-PRO-BATTERY-MONITOR-/271762770509?pt=Bo at_Parts_Accessories_Gear http://www.ebay.com/itm/XANTREX-LINK-PRO-BATTERY-MONITOR-/271762770509?pt=B oat_Parts_Accessories_Gearhash=item3f4652ca4dvxp=mtr hash=item3f4652ca4dvxp=mtr Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 6:10 AM To: M Bod; CC List Subject: Re: Stus-List State of the Battery Mark, Just keep in mind that the voltage method is not very accurate...though neither are the A-hr meters if they are not periodically recalibrated. That being said, I believe that my method errors on the conservative side. Just in case I do forget (or lose my shore power) I installed a Priority Start device which will monitor battery voltage and then disconnect prior to dropping below the requisite voltage to start the engine. A low battery and difficulty starting can also be assisted by decompressing the engine. http://www.prioritystart.com/ Josh On Feb 2, 2015 1:57 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Josh, Thanks for the info on using voltage to gauge battery level. With my tiny bank and very limited loads it does not make sense to be wiring in a monitor or Balmar Smart Gauge (to the tune of $360 cdn). But I was thinking about adding a voltmeter so I could maintain some track on drain. Say something like http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltmeter-3-50-30-0V-Anti-reverse-Protection/dp/B 00DUTJXWO/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltmeter-3-50-30-0V-Anti-reverse-Protection/dp/ B00DUTJXWO/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotiveie=UTF8qid=1422902563sr=1-8keywords=vo ltage+meterpebp=1422902722997peasin=B00DUTJXWO ie=UTF8qid=1422902563sr=1-8keywords=voltage+meterpebp=1422902722997pea sin=B00DUTJXWO I have to hook up and figure out how to mount my solar panel this spring, and I will re-wire my 1-2-off switch as per MaineSail's instructions. Rather than going to a starting bank and a house bank - I'll likely stick with A bank and B bank - use them interchangeably for starting and house. Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 2015-02-02 1:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: What you are looking for is an amp-hour meter. Discharging a flooded deep cycle battery rated at 100 Ahrs below 50% should be avoided. This roughly equates to 50 Ahrs of use. 5amp for 10hours or 50 amps for 1 houryou get the jist. Discharging a flooded deep cycle below 50% will decrease its effective useful service life. Many batteries publish a the number of cycles and depth of discharge. One loose rating convention is that a deep cycle will survive 200 charge/discharge cycles of 50%. The cycle number increases when the depth of discharge is reduced. When using a voltage meter, it is important to take a no load voltage after the battery has had time to recover. The easy way to remember a capacity to voltage conversion is 0.1v per 10%. A fully charged battery will read 12.7v and a fully discharged one will read ~11.7v. By this convention one should avoid voltage readings below 12.2v. I have a total of 500Ahrs between 2 banks so when one gets to a loaded voltage of 12.2v I start considering a switch to the other battery. I can go about 2 days in the middle of summer with no charging source before I start to worry. The engine charges at 100amps so motoring on and of the hook keeps me pretty well topped up. I put one of these in my first sailboat. It is similar to the Link 2000 that Edd suggested. I have a Link 2000 installed on my current boat but it has never worked right. I believe the current shunt is bad or somehow bypassed on the charge or discharge circuit.I'll get to it...
Re: Stus-List Mounting Outboard Bracket
I have that setup on my 27-5 and it works wonderfully. I have the bracket model 71033. It has a nice long travel, and is rated for enough weight for the Yamaha 4-stroke. My boat came from the factory with an outboard. The 71033 allows the motor to be a couple inches out of the water when the bracket is full up, and the outboard tilted. It also allows it to get the shaft deeper in the water than many setups I've seen. That is important. I have a thick plywood plate with large metal washers on the inside, and a 1 inch thick mounting pad made of Starboard on the exterior. Bill Bina On 2/3/2015 10:43 AM, Dan Utinske via CnC-List wrote: I want to mount a Garelick bracket on my stearn to support a Yamaha 9.9 4 stroke. I've seen at least on CC 26' with an outboard; anyone have any experience mounting and anything unusual that I can expect? Probably better off having it done by a professional, any opinions? Dan Utinske CC 26' Only Time ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Helm seat / boarding ramp
Looks awesome, I'm also curious on what you used to make it and what the non-skid is. I hope you guys did not get hit too hard with the recent snow storms. My buddy in Boston is getting buried.. Stay warm, -Francois 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, Georgia From: Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Helm seat / boarding ramp Message-ID: 131237837.14904968.1422937641134.javamail.zim...@comcast.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 To see my new winter project, a helm seat / boarding ramp, go to: https://www.flickr.com/photos/119825754@N05/ Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boat Cover
Sorry, 25 cm. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 1:32 PM To: Kirkpatrick, Jay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Boat Cover I guess we now get to test the strength of my boat cover frame. Top Shop cover built for a CC99. I wonder how much snow these are designed to have on them? After a mess last night with 250cm or so of snow followed by ice we get more of the same cr@p again on Thursday. At least the skiing will be excellent Mike ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boat Cover
Not sure hoe that translates to inches but I know the Gary Z designed cover didn't last the 12 or so inches we got. I am so thankful for the engineers on the list because I am surly nit one. Good news is less than two months to spring !!! On Feb 3, 2015 12:33 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Sorry, 25 cm. *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List *Sent:* Tuesday, February 03, 2015 1:32 PM *To:* Kirkpatrick, Jay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List Boat Cover I guess we now get to test the strength of my boat cover frame. Top Shop cover built for a CC99. I wonder how much snow these are designed to have on them? After a mess last night with 250cm or so of snow followed by ice we get more of the same cr@p again on Thursday. At least the skiing will be excellent Mike ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Boat Cover
I guess we now get to test the strength of my boat cover frame. Top Shop cover built for a CC99. I wonder how much snow these are designed to have on them? After a mess last night with 250cm or so of snow followed by ice we get more of the same cr@p again on Thursday. At least the skiing will be excellent Mike ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 3GM Transmission
Sorry. That should have been $483 + $12 shipping. Alan I had the same problem. I bought a new cone, and installed it, but still had the same problem. Then I discovered that there was too much play in the shifting. In other words, when I disconnected the shaft, I could move the transmission coupling forward and back, which allowed the cone to slip. I corrected it by installing a shim in the transmission. Problem solved. You might try that first. When you disassemble the transmission, inspect the cone to see whether it still has grooves or whether it's smooth. If you need a new cone, I still have the one I bought for $285 plus $12 shipping from Georgia. You can have it for $250 including shipping. My transmission is a Kanzai KH-A. Engine is a 3GMF. Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR My 1984, 35 MKIII has its original Yanmar 3GM and a 1984 Martec folding prop. I was experiencing really bad vibration at the end of the season as if the prop wasn’t opening or as if only 1 of the 2 blades was unfolding. I’d put it in reverse (during which there was never any of the vibration) then put it into forward quickly and hard and after several attempts it would usually be OK until I slowed down like when approaching the mooring and then it would happen again. I sent the prop back to Martec to get it refurbished and when speaking to them they suggested that although the prop was in need of refurbishment that the vibration I was experiencing might be due to the engine clutch slipping. When I asked a Yanmar repair guy about that he said that might indeed be the issue. Apparently the only way I’m going to be able to tell if the refurbished prop was the cause is when its back on the shaft and the boat’s back in the water. Since I really don’t want to miss any of the short season, racing beginning just a few weeks after the boat’s back in the water and the cost and hassle of pulling the boat out again after it’s launched in the spring, I’m leaning towards taking prevent yanking the transmission out, bringing it to a shop and having it rebuilt. Have any of you had this experience? Has having the prop fixed/replaced always solved the issue? Or, is there a good possibility that it is indeed the transmission? Any experience and/or advice the group can provide would be greatly appreciated. Dave Saltaire Bristol, RI. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boat Cover
25 cm = 10 in. Normal covers should withstand 25 cm. However, I find that after each major storm, it is best to shake the snow off the cover. when it is fresh it is easy. If you wait a while, some of it always melts and becomes an unwieldy block of ice. That can be hard to shake. The best idea is to have the slopes steep enough that the snow drops away under its own weight. We had only 20 cm (8 in). Not so much. My heart goes out to people on the East Coast (Halifax!) Some places got around 1 m (3.3 ft) since the weekend. Marek (in Ottawa) From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List Sent: February-03-15 12:43 To: Hoyt, Mike; CC email list Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Cover Not sure hoe that translates to inches but I know the Gary Z designed cover didn't last the 12 or so inches we got. I am so thankful for the engineers on the list because I am surly nit one. Good news is less than two months to spring !!! On Feb 3, 2015 12:33 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Sorry, 25 cm. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 1:32 PM To: Kirkpatrick, Jay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Boat Cover I guess we now get to test the strength of my boat cover frame. Top Shop cover built for a CC99. I wonder how much snow these are designed to have on them? After a mess last night with 250cm or so of snow followed by ice we get more of the same cr@p again on Thursday. At least the skiing will be excellent Mike ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hand crank vs Starter battery
I've never tried (as my boat didn't come with the crank handle) but my CS 30 Volvo 2002 also has a hand crank option. I was advised that it wouldn't work easily --- but having watched the YouTube series on the yacht Teleport that sailed out of Halifax and through the Northwest passage they started their small diesel with a hand crank. I'd pick up a crank handle if I could find one Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 2015-02-03 12:34 PM, Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List wrote: Today's discussion about a electrical batter connections and starting batteries reminded me that there is reference to a starting crank handle in my Atomic4 manual. I used to have a staring crank with my old Land Rover that was always entertaining to use, but surprisingly easy way to start the truck if the starter or battery failed. Does anyone have experience with hand cranking the Atomic4? Jay CC30-1 Lady Jane Oakville, Ontario ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List CC cove stripe northern star
Does anyone have a photo or good drawing of the northern star on the ends of the CC cove stripe? Many thanks John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 CC 34 Noank, CT --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. http://www.avast.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rigging Question
Tim; Having the mast down twice over the last 12 years, and seeing how CC did the installation on my 38, it is hard to visualize how the holes in the mast would get elongated. On my 38 the cross bolt through the mast is actually a long 3/8 diameter cap screw or shoulder bolt, so there are no threads in contact with the mast extrusion. And the assembly is torqued down REALLY tight, so there seems no likelihood of motion between the bolt and the mast. My suggestion to your problem would be the following: Get a suitable shoulder bolt or cap screw to replace the bolt you have currently. Make a sleeve or bushing to go over the new cross bolt. ID of the sleeve should match the OD of the body of the bolt – i.e. 3/8 OD of bolt and 3/8 ID of bushing. Mark the mast with horizontal centerline of the holes in the hooks where they contact the mast, and carefully mark the vertical centerline of the original holes in the mast. Use this cross as the center point of the enlarged hole you will make in your mast with your handy dandy Dremel tool. The ID of this enlarged hole should match the OD of your bushing stock. The tighter the fit the better. Insert the bushing through the mast and, again using the handy dandy Dremel, match the length and curvature of the bushing so it matches the outside surface of the mast on each side. You might want to permanently mount the bushing into the mast with MarineTex or JB Weld. Reinstall the hooks and torque the cross bolt TIGHTLY, using a NyLok nut to keep it from loosening. Rick Brass Imzadi CC 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 3:44 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Rigging Question There was mention recently of 'hooks that insert into the mast collar then bolt to the mast to hold the deck down when running rigging is under tension. On my 35-3, the bolt through the mast has started to tear at the mast column and elongate the holes. I could change the length of the hooks and create another hole somewhere else on the mast. In that case, has anyone used a sleeve to stop the relatively small bolt sawing at the mast tube? Does anyone have any other solutions out there (e.g. wire to the mast step each side)? Thanks, Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mounting Outboard Bracket
Dan; You haven’t said where you sail, nor the reason that you want to put the outboard bracket on the transom. As someone else said, there are problems inherent in such an arrangement, depending on conditions where you sail. My 25 came with a long shaft 10HP Honda on the back. The early 80s vintage Honda was heavy, and the shaft wasn’t all that long. The weight on the aft end of the boat probably has some impact on trim of the boat, but the real drawback was in moderate to rough chop and larger waves. When the boat starts hobby-horsing the prop comes out of the water and starts cavitating while the motor races. The only solution is to throttle back the motor to stop the cavitation, and then power back up until it happens again. I sail in the Sounds and rivers of eastern North Carolina, where waves tend to be short and steep due to shallow water, and there have been a number of times when I shut the engine off, raised a small jib, and tacked into the weather in order to make any progress. And on a couple of occasions the waves at the mouth of a creek have trapped me in the creek, and I grabbed a ride home and came back for the boat when it was more calm. When the Honda died, I replaced it with an older 8hp Evinrude that was lighter and had a longer shaft. Same problem. I now have a 9.9 Taihatsu with a really long shaft, and relocated the motor bracket down as far as I could on the transom. I’ve not noticed the problem, but I basically only daysail the boat these days so I’m not out in crappy conditions. So my opinion would be that if you sail on a lake or someplace where you will not need to contend with weather and waves, the outboard will be OK. But if weather and waves are in your future, and you have an inboard that can be salvaged, spend your money on the inboard instead of getting the outboard. Get the longest shaft you can possibly buy on the Yamaha (and look at the Nissan/Mercury/Taihatsu motor, which I found had a longer shaft and cost several $100 less than the Yamaha I priced). And mount your bracket as low on the transom as practical. I have a ½ thick marine plywood backing plate inside my transom, and oversized stainless fender washers under the nuts on the mounting bolts for the motor bracket. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan Utinske via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 10:44 AM To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Mounting Outboard Bracket I want to mount a Garelick bracket on my stearn to support a Yamaha 9.9 4 stroke. I've seen at least on CC 26' with an outboard; anyone have any experience mounting and anything unusual that I can expect? Probably better off having it done by a professional, any opinions? Dan Utinske CC 26' Only Time ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Rigging Question
There was mention recently of 'hooks that insert into the mast collar then bolt to the mast to hold the deck down when running rigging is under tension. On my 35-3, the bolt through the mast has started to tear at the mast column and elongate the holes. I could change the length of the hooks and create another hole somewhere else on the mast. In that case, has anyone used a sleeve to stop the relatively small bolt sawing at the mast tube? Does anyone have any other solutions out there (e.g. wire to the mast step each side)? Thanks, Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rigging Question
Tim, You could always drill the holes for a larger bolt. Doug Allardyce Bullet 1985 CC 35 MK III Detroit _/)~~~_/) -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 3:44 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Rigging Question There was mention recently of 'hooks that insert into the mast collar then bolt to the mast to hold the deck down when running rigging is under tension. On my 35-3, the bolt through the mast has started to tear at the mast column and elongate the holes. I could change the length of the hooks and create another hole somewhere else on the mast. In that case, has anyone used a sleeve to stop the relatively small bolt sawing at the mast tube? Does anyone have any other solutions out there (e.g. wire to the mast step each side)? Thanks, Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rigging Question
Tim, Have not seen your set up, but in a similar situation, the mainsheet bail on my boom was creating larger holes and the rigger attached reinforcing plates to the boom to take the load from the bail bolt. The plates are diamond shaped and are attached to the boom with short screws / bolts tapped into the aluminum of the boom. They look like the last plates pictured in this section, though obviously you would need to match +/- the curve of your mast: http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Boom_bails.html#Reinforcing_Plates_for_Standard_Boom_Bails The work was done by Chuck at Sound Rigging in Essex. Brian From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 3:44 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Rigging Question There was mention recently of 'hooks that insert into the mast collar then bolt to the mast to hold the deck down when running rigging is under tension. On my 35-3, the bolt through the mast has started to tear at the mast column and elongate the holes. I could change the length of the hooks and create another hole somewhere else on the mast. In that case, has anyone used a sleeve to stop the relatively small bolt sawing at the mast tube? Does anyone have any other solutions out there (e.g. wire to the mast step each side)? Thanks, Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boat Cover
We are well ahead of you. We had 20” last week and another 18” yesterday. Haven’t been to the boat yet, so fingers crossed. Dave On Feb 3, 2015, at 2:38 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: 25 cm = 10 in. Normal covers should withstand 25 cm. However, I find that after each major storm, it is best to shake the snow off the cover. when it is fresh it is easy. If you wait a while, some of it always melts and becomes an unwieldy block of ice. That can be hard to shake. The best idea is to have the slopes steep enough that the snow drops away under its own weight. We had only 20 cm (8 in). Not so much. My heart goes out to people on the East Coast (Halifax!) Some places got around 1 m (3.3 ft) since the weekend. Marek (in Ottawa) From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List Sent: February-03-15 12:43 To: Hoyt, Mike; CC email list Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Cover Not sure hoe that translates to inches but I know the Gary Z designed cover didn't last the 12 or so inches we got. I am so thankful for the engineers on the list because I am surly nit one. Good news is less than two months to spring !!! On Feb 3, 2015 12:33 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Sorry, 25 cm. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 1:32 PM To: Kirkpatrick, Jay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Boat Cover I guess we now get to test the strength of my boat cover frame. Top Shop cover built for a CC99. I wonder how much snow these are designed to have on them? After a mess last night with 250cm or so of snow followed by ice we get more of the same cr@p again on Thursday. At least the skiing will be excellent Mike ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List State of the Battery
Mark, Just keep in mind that the voltage method is not very accurate...though neither are the A-hr meters if they are not periodically recalibrated. That being said, I believe that my method errors on the conservative side. Just in case I do forget (or lose my shore power) I installed a Priority Start device which will monitor battery voltage and then disconnect prior to dropping below the requisite voltage to start the engine. A low battery and difficulty starting can also be assisted by decompressing the engine. http://www.prioritystart.com/ Josh On Feb 2, 2015 1:57 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Josh, Thanks for the info on using voltage to gauge battery level. With my tiny bank and very limited loads it does not make sense to be wiring in a monitor or Balmar Smart Gauge (to the tune of $360 cdn). But I was thinking about adding a voltmeter so I could maintain some track on drain. Say something like http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltmeter-3-50-30-0V-Anti-reverse-Protection/dp/B00DUTJXWO/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotiveie=UTF8qid=1422902563sr=1-8keywords=voltage+meterpebp=1422902722997peasin=B00DUTJXWO I have to hook up and figure out how to mount my solar panel this spring, and I will re-wire my 1-2-off switch as per MaineSail's instructions. Rather than going to a starting bank and a house bank - I'll likely stick with A bank and B bank - use them interchangeably for starting and house. Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 2015-02-02 1:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: What you are looking for is an amp-hour meter. Discharging a flooded deep cycle battery rated at 100 Ahrs below 50% should be avoided. This roughly equates to 50 Ahrs of use. 5amp for 10hours or 50 amps for 1 houryou get the jist. Discharging a flooded deep cycle below 50% will decrease its effective useful service life. Many batteries publish a the number of cycles and depth of discharge. One loose rating convention is that a deep cycle will survive 200 charge/discharge cycles of 50%. The cycle number increases when the depth of discharge is reduced. When using a voltage meter, it is important to take a no load voltage after the battery has had time to recover. The easy way to remember a capacity to voltage conversion is 0.1v per 10%. A fully charged battery will read 12.7v and a fully discharged one will read ~11.7v. By this convention one should avoid voltage readings below 12.2v. I have a total of 500Ahrs between 2 banks so when one gets to a loaded voltage of 12.2v I start considering a switch to the other battery. I can go about 2 days in the middle of summer with no charging source before I start to worry. The engine charges at 100amps so motoring on and of the hook keeps me pretty well topped up. I put one of these in my first sailboat. It is similar to the Link 2000 that Edd suggested. I have a Link 2000 installed on my current boat but it has never worked right. I believe the current shunt is bad or somehow bypassed on the charge or discharge circuit.I'll get to it... http://www.altestore.com/store/Meters-Communications-Site-Analysis/Meters-Battery-Monitors/Ammeters-Voltmeters-Battery-Monitors/Bogart-Engineering-TM-2025-A-F-TriMetric-Meter-Includes-fuse-and-fuse-holder/p10112/ Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Feb 2, 2015 8:27 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Looking at the wiring diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this list can answer. I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do more in the future. One of the things I am unsure of is how people monitor the state of their batteries when you know shore power is not going to be available. I have a digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the batteries and a chart that translates voltage into percent charge and I have used that as a rough guide, but that seems crude for such an important function. My understanding is that you have let the batteries sit for a while if they have been charging to get an accurate reading. I am not sure if current draws also have to be off. For instance, how would I know if it is safe to run the refrigeration while sailing to the next destination? Can you get a meter that gives you hours of battery life remaining? What strategies to listers use to solve this problem? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page
Re: Stus-List Rigging Question
Brian, This sounds like the plan as the holes are pretty chewed up (there were bolt threads in contact with the mast wall unlike Rick's setup). I like Rick's option too, so maybe a belt and braces approach. I will need to check the clearance at the partners with the wedges removed to ensure any addition to the sides of the mast won't cause issues during removal / stepping. Your link to reinforcement plates led me to flange bushings http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Flange_bushings.htm Thanks! Tim On Tue, Feb 3, 2015 at 4:11 PM, Nauset Beach nausetbe...@optonline.net wrote: Tim, Have not seen your set up, but in a similar situation, the mainsheet bail on my boom was creating larger holes and the rigger attached reinforcing plates to the boom to take the load from the bail bolt. The plates are diamond shaped and are attached to the boom with short screws / bolts tapped into the aluminum of the boom. They look like the last plates pictured in this section, though obviously you would need to match +/- the curve of your mast: http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Boom_bails.html#Reinforcing_Plates_for_Standard_Boom_Bails The work was done by Chuck at Sound Rigging in Essex. Brian ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boat Cover
Drove by today. 10 inches wet then frozen crap has frame bowed. Have to clean it off tomorrow so can prepare for more of same Thursday From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of David Knecht via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: February 3, 2015 5:06 PM To: Marek Dziedzic; CnC CnC discussion list Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Cover We are well ahead of you. We had 20” last week and another 18” yesterday. Haven’t been to the boat yet, so fingers crossed. Dave On Feb 3, 2015, at 2:38 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: 25 cm = 10 in. Normal covers should withstand 25 cm. However, I find that after each major storm, it is best to shake the snow off the cover. when it is fresh it is easy. If you wait a while, some of it always melts and becomes an unwieldy block of ice. That can be hard to shake. The best idea is to have the slopes steep enough that the snow drops away under its own weight. We had only 20 cm (8 in). Not so much. My heart goes out to people on the East Coast (Halifax!) Some places got around 1 m (3.3 ft) since the weekend. Marek (in Ottawa) From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List Sent: February-03-15 12:43 To: Hoyt, Mike; CC email list Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Cover Not sure hoe that translates to inches but I know the Gary Z designed cover didn't last the 12 or so inches we got. I am so thankful for the engineers on the list because I am surly nit one. Good news is less than two months to spring !!! On Feb 3, 2015 12:33 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Sorry, 25 cm. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 1:32 PM To: Kirkpatrick, Jay; cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Boat Cover I guess we now get to test the strength of my boat cover frame. Top Shop cover built for a CC99. I wonder how much snow these are designed to have on them? After a mess last night with 250cm or so of snow followed by ice we get more of the same cr@p again on Thursday. At least the skiing will be excellent Mike ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hand crank vs Starter battery
On my CC29-1 A4 I had a crank handle... but the standard install restricted the swing to about 1/2 turn ... so I decided to give the handle away and keep my hands and arms in one piece... Don On Feb 3, 2015, at 11:34 AM, Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Today's discussion about a electrical batter connections and starting batteries reminded me that there is reference to a starting crank handle in my Atomic4 manual. I used to have a staring crank with my old Land Rover that was always entertaining to use, but surprisingly easy way to start the truck if the starter or battery failed. Does anyone have experience with hand cranking the Atomic4? Jay CC30-1 Lady Jane Oakville, Ontario ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC cove stripe northern star
Scroll to the bottom of this page: http://www.hollandmarine.com/CCfolder/CC001.html Ken H. On 3 February 2015 at 19:42, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Does anyone have a photo or good drawing of the northern star on the ends of the CC cove stripe? Many thanks John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 CC 34 Noank, CT -- http://www.avast.com/ This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rigging Question
Tim, This sounds like a very peculiar problem. I have had no issues with my hooks moving. One solution might be to weld some aluminum washers over the elongated holes to provide more area to support the load. A Gucci solution would be to have some nice stainless steel tie rods that connected the mast collar to the keel step. Now that would look cool! Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 3:44 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Rigging Question There was mention recently of 'hooks that insert into the mast collar then bolt to the mast to hold the deck down when running rigging is under tension. On my 35-3, the bolt through the mast has started to tear at the mast column and elongate the holes. I could change the length of the hooks and create another hole somewhere else on the mast. In that case, has anyone used a sleeve to stop the relatively small bolt sawing at the mast tube? Does anyone have any other solutions out there (e.g. wire to the mast step each side)? Thanks, Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
