Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft
The only thing that fails the survey is the mortgage company saying, We're not going to finance because of the loan to value ratio. Every boat has comments and the insurance policy has a clause which dictates something to the effect of, You will get all of the critical comments in the survey repaired to industry standards before this policy is valid. Whether or not you do is up to you. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk On Apr 2, 2015 12:25 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Would the non fail-safe GI's pass a survey (or insurance claim for electrical injury)? Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Apr 2, 2015, at 11:35 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And Yandina's basic GI (not a Failsafe model) is $90 (Defender) or $100 (Yandina direct) ... and it is rated as ignition protected. Optional capacitor available for another $90 (Yandina direct). *From:* Jake Brodersen via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Thursday, April 02, 2015 2:46 AM *To:* 'Rick Brass' rickbr...@earthlink.net ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft Rick, I built my own GI with instructions and parts from Yandina. It was a quick and easy project, although the installation under the cockpit was a bit of a challenge. Jake *Jake Brodersen* *Midnight Mistress* *CC 35 Mk-III* *Hampton VA* *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick Brass via CnC-List *Sent:* Wednesday, April 01, 2015 9:17 PM *To:* 'Josh Muckley'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft Excellent summary, Josh. I recall the breakover voltage as .6 not .7, but the effect is the same. 1.2 or 1.4 volts of breakover from two diodes in series will stop the galvanic current. And for the frugal among us, and I think that covers most all sailors with boats under about 50 feet, the price of a 1000 volt, 50 amp diode at Radio Shack is about $2.99. Add a small project box, some wire, and a couple of stud terminals, and you've got a homemade galvanic isolator for about $20-25. Rick Brass Washington, NC -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft
It is a bit of a ‘grey area’ though, isn’t it? Typically an insurer will look at a surveyor’s report and make the surveyor’s recommendations a requirement of the insurance, with a timeline to complete the required work. I’m not sure what US Coast Guard regs say, but Transport Canada says that a pleasure craft, built to a previous standard, doesn’t have to comply with the Transport Canada current standard (but is encouraged to do so, as far as practical). But then there are clauses that state you must meet the standard when a vessel is ‘rebuilt’ or ‘imported’ or undergoes a ‘major modification’, which is defined as: “major modification” means a modification or repair or a series of modifications or repairs that substantially changes the capacity or size of a vessel or the nature of a system on board a vessel, that affects its watertight integrity or its stability, or, except in the case of the restoration of an antique wooden pleasure craft, that substantially increases its service life” So I expect if, for example, you were adding in a shorepower system where one never existed before? Or perhaps you are adding a propane-based stove/oven, BBQ, and cabin heater with propane tanks and a propane locker? Refrigeration system? Hot water system? Genset? A complete AC/DC re-wire? Same as, when do you need a building / electrical / plumbing permits for your home? Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet CC 27 MkIII From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 10:53 AM To: ed vanderkruk ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft I believe that ABYC only governs the practice of boat builders and boat repair contractors. I don't believe there is any requirement that our old boats have to be brought up to the current ABYC standards (which are always being improved). A survey done on your boat may recommend that something be changed to adhere to the current ABYC standards but that is the judgement of the marine surveyor. So, I think we need to think of ABYC standards with respect to our DIY projects as recommended guidelines when we are making changes--not as an absolute requirement. For example, ABYC recommends the use of tinned wire throughout a boat. Our old boats have mostly un-tinned wire throughout. Even though it's a good idea to replace the old un-tinned wire it is not a requirement for insurance purposes or safety purposes. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On Apr 2, 2015, at 1:28 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: For ABYC compliance it must be failsafe or with integral / external status monitoring for a failure. All DIY solutions would also not comply to the 'general requirements' of the GI ABYC section. Now whether this is highlighted during survey and any liabilities but noncompliance ... I leave to others. Ed ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft
Some do. There are mixed arguments for and against the capacitor. Stray AC is what is trying to be filtered out. Josh On Apr 2, 2015 6:04 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Commercial galvanic isolators have both capacitors AND diodes. Belt and suspenders. Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com Coquina CC 35 MK I *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Goodyear via CnC-List *Sent:* Thursday, April 02, 2015 12:25 PM *To:* Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft Would the non fail-safe GI's pass a survey (or insurance claim for electrical injury)? Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Apr 2, 2015, at 11:35 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And Yandina's basic GI (not a Failsafe model) is $90 (Defender) or $100 (Yandina direct) ... and it is rated as ignition protected. Optional capacitor available for another $90 (Yandina direct). *From:* Jake Brodersen via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Thursday, April 02, 2015 2:46 AM *To:* 'Rick Brass' rickbr...@earthlink.net ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft Rick, I built my own GI with instructions and parts from Yandina. It was a quick and easy project, although the installation under the cockpit was a bit of a challenge. Jake *Jake Brodersen* *Midnight Mistress* *CC 35 Mk-III* *Hampton VA* *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick Brass via CnC-List *Sent:* Wednesday, April 01, 2015 9:17 PM *To:* 'Josh Muckley'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft Excellent summary, Josh. I recall the breakover voltage as .6 not .7, but the effect is the same. 1.2 or 1.4 volts of breakover from two diodes in series will stop the galvanic current. And for the frugal among us, and I think that covers most all sailors with boats under about 50 feet, the price of a 1000 volt, 50 amp diode at Radio Shack is about $2.99. Add a small project box, some wire, and a couple of stud terminals, and you've got a homemade galvanic isolator for about $20-25. Rick Brass Washington, NC -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft
Commercial galvanic isolators have both capacitors AND diodes. Belt and suspenders. Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com mailto:j...@dellabarba.com Coquina CC 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 12:25 PM To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft Would the non fail-safe GI's pass a survey (or insurance claim for electrical injury)? Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Apr 2, 2015, at 11:35 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And Yandina’s basic GI (not a Failsafe model) is $90 (Defender) or $100 (Yandina direct) ... and it is rated as ignition protected. Optional capacitor available for another $90 (Yandina direct). From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 2:46 AM To: 'Rick Brass' mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft Rick, I built my own GI with instructions and parts from Yandina. It was a quick and easy project, although the installation under the cockpit was a bit of a challenge. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 9:17 PM To: 'Josh Muckley'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft Excellent summary, Josh. I recall the breakover voltage as .6 not .7, but the effect is the same. 1.2 or 1.4 volts of breakover from two diodes in series will stop the galvanic current. And for the frugal among us, and I think that covers most all sailors with boats under about 50 feet, the price of a 1000 volt, 50 amp diode at Radio Shack is about $2.99. Add a small project box, some wire, and a couple of stud terminals, and you’ve got a homemade galvanic isolator for about $20-25. Rick Brass Washington, NC _ ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 35-3 Keel Joint
Erik, The keel joint on the 35-3 can be a pain. The “CC Smile” as it is known, often appears as the hull to keel joint opens up. Many times this is only a cosmetic issue. I have removed and replaced the keel on my boat once in an attempt to cure this problem. It has worked well. The sources of my problem were many. The keel stub had cracks in it. The mast step had sunk a bit. I also had some water stagnating in the mast step. All of these problems were solved by removing the keel, reinforcing the keel stub, and reengineering the mast step. Cheap? No. But the boat is stronger for it. Your problem may not be as serious, but deserves some consideration. The forward keel bolt is under the mast. The only way to tighten it is to remove the mast. I have done that again this season. If the forward bolt stays tight, I think the keel will have less of a tendency to separate from the keel stub. Minor gaps can be filled and painted. Significant gaps should be addressed as I have done. One of the things to think about is how much backstay tension you use. Anything over 2,000# is going to turn the boat into a banana and start to separate the keel. I try to keep it under 1,500#. I have pics of my RR job. If you’d like to see them contact me off list. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 12:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 35-3 Keel Joint Anyone else have annual issues with the keel joint on this boat? I've owned the boat only three seasons, but it's been a source of frustration every year. I've never understood the design, especially the 4 foot long front bolt. The keel was rebed and the bolts tourqed two years ago, but still every fall when I haul out there is crack in the joint across the front 1/3 - 1/2 of the keel. The only semi-permanent solution the yard can think of is to encase the joint in glass, but admits with all the flexing that clearly goes on, it's probably not much of a solution. Should I resign myself to just filling and fairing with caulk every spring before the bottom paint goes on? The boat had only one owner before me and it's been at the same yard for all its 31 years, so they know it well, but thought I'd get an opinion from the group. Erik Chicago CC 35 MKIII Slapshot ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 35-3 Keel Joint
Thanks for the advice guys. A little history on the keel... I went on the
list serve with the original problem a few years ago. In the first year by mid
season I had a 20 gallon a day leak flooding up through the stringer behind the
aft most keel boat. I limped from Milwaukee back to Chicago and hauled out.
They dropped the keel and found that there was almost no sealant left in the
joint and there was a vertical crack along the edge of the aft keel boat hole,
causing the leak. They filled the crack with epoxy, faired the mating
surfaces, caulked the hell out of it with 4200 and tourqed the bolts. They
also said it was some what wet under the mast in the filler where the long
forward bolt comes up. They repaired that as well. Last season bilge was dry,
no issues. I was surprised to see the joint opened back up this fall,
especially considering our short sailing season here. I usually don't exceed
1800 on the back stay but will try and get by with even less this season and
see if that makes a different.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net wrote:
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Erik,
The keel joint on the 35-3 can be a pain. The “CC Smile” as it is known,
often appears as the hull to keel joint opens up. Many times this is only a
cosmetic issue. I have removed and replaced the keel on my boat once in an
attempt to cure this problem. It has worked well. The sources of my problem
were many. The keel stub had cracks in it. The mast step had sunk a bit. I
also had some water stagnating in the mast step. All of these problems were
solved by removing the keel, reinforcing the keel stub, and reengineering the
mast step. Cheap? No. But the boat is stronger for it.
Your problem may not be as serious, but deserves some consideration. The
forward keel bolt is under the mast. The only way to tighten it is to remove
the mast. I have done that again this season. If the forward bolt stays
tight, I think the keel will have less of a tendency to separate from the keel
stub. Minor gaps can be filled and painted. Significant gaps should be
addressed as I have done.
One of the things to think about is how much backstay tension you use.
Anything over 2,000# is going to turn the boat into a banana and start to
separate the keel. I try to keep it under 1,500#.
I have pics of my RR job. If you’d like to see them contact me off list.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
“Midnight Mistress”
CC 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik
Hillenmeyer via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 12:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CC 35-3 Keel Joint
Anyone else have annual issues with the keel joint on this boat? I've owned
the boat only three seasons, but it's been a source of frustration every year.
I've never understood the design, especially the 4 foot long front bolt. The
keel was rebed and the bolts tourqed two years ago, but still every fall when
I haul out there is crack in the joint across the front 1/3 - 1/2 of the keel.
The only semi-permanent solution the yard can think of is to encase the joint
in glass, but admits with all the flexing that clearly goes on, it's probably
not much of a solution. Should I resign myself to just filling and fairing
with caulk every spring before the bottom paint goes on? The boat had only
one owner before me and it's been at the same yard for all its 31 years, so
they know it well, but thought I'd get an opinion from the group.
Erik
Chicago
CC 35 MKIII Slapshot
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Re: Stus-List bottom paint - Micron Extra, CSC 66 ?
Micron Extra is great for Chesapeake. I paint every other year, No growth between paints. Not sure how it would do in Halifax. Cheers, Aaron R. Admiral Maggie Annapolis, MD 30-1 On Mar 30, 2015, at 2:41 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I was in Maine skiing last week and took a morning off to drive to Hamilton Marine in Searsport to pick p a gallon of Micron 66. This mostly based on Bob Abbott’s experience on Azura which is moored near our boat. While there I was looking at the active ingredients on Micron 66 vs Micron Extra. The Micron Extra is considerably cheaper and it seemed the copper content not a whole lot less. Does anyone on this list have good experience with the two and what the big difference is between then and what the difference in their intended usage? For good measure perhaps throw in how these two compare to Micron CSC. The old email from Chuck below brought this back to my attention. Thanks Mike Hoyt Persistence Halifax, NS From: Chuck S [mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 8:04 PM To: Hoyt, Mike; CNC boat owners, cnc-list Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint Used Micron 66 after reading about it on this list. Great paint for salt water. Fast and stays clean compared to VC-Offshore which requires frequent scrubbing. I moved my boat to Chesapeake and now have to change. I'll probably go to Extra and burnish lightly. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Heat exchanger
Last weekend I managed to take the heat exchanger off my Universal M4-30 in order to figure out why it was leaking antifreeze. The trick that seemed to get the bolt I was having trouble with unstuck was heat from a grill lighter. Now that I have it home, I am going to replace the seals and O rings from the end caps. The zinc was completely gone, so doing that as well. I took the cap off the zinc but an inner threaded part stayed in place and nothing is sticking into the exchanger except the nub of zinc. 1. Am I right in presuming that nothing is holding it in there except gunk and corrosion and I can bang it out from the outside? This may be more obvious when I have the new part. 2. When I replace it, should I put something like Tefgel/Marelube on the threads or Loctite? 3. The larger problem is that several of the ports for tubing connections are seriously out of round as if they were mashed at some point (I don’t see how could have done it so I am blaming the proverbial PO). Should I worry about this and presume the clamp and flexibility of the tubing will seal (it seemed the end cap that was leaking, not the tubing ports) or is there some way to round the soft brass of the ports? Thanks as always- Dave . Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger
Only the threads on the cap hold the zinc in my M4-30 heat exchanger and the zinc pencil is treaded into the bronze cap so the cap is reusable. Despite that the engine is fresh water cooled and charged with a 50/50 water antifreeze mix I change the zinc pencil about every 2 years and I use teflon tape on the cap treads that meet up with the heat exchanger...the zincs are only partially eaten away after 2 years and could probably go longer but why try for longer, they are inexpensive to replace. I find it better to shorten the zinc pencils to about 1 inch or so showing above the treads, that makes installation from underneathe easier for me. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Thu, Apr 2, 2015 at 9:08 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Last weekend I managed to take the heat exchanger off my Universal M4-30 in order to figure out why it was leaking antifreeze. The trick that seemed to get the bolt I was having trouble with unstuck was heat from a grill lighter. Now that I have it home, I am going to replace the seals and O rings from the end caps. The zinc was completely gone, so doing that as well. I took the cap off the zinc but an inner threaded part stayed in place and nothing is sticking into the exchanger except the nub of zinc. 1. Am I right in presuming that nothing is holding it in there except gunk and corrosion and I can bang it out from the outside? This may be more obvious when I have the new part. 2. When I replace it, should I put something like Tefgel/Marelube on the threads or Loctite? 3. The larger problem is that several of the ports for tubing connections are seriously out of round as if they were mashed at some point (I don’t see how could have done it so I am blaming the proverbial PO). Should I worry about this and presume the clamp and flexibility of the tubing will seal (it seemed the end cap that was leaking, not the tubing ports) or is there some way to round the soft brass of the ports? Thanks as always- Dave . Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spot sat phone
Joel, Under the heading of Timing is Everything, I got an email from SPOT yesterday about getting free phone. When you buy the phone you get a rebate up to $499 if you sign up for a service plan. The lowest cost service plans are 100 minutes a month for $65, or 1200 minutes a year for $780 ( which they call a seasonal plan). Details are probably on the SPOT website. Rick Brass Sent from my iPad On Mar 28, 2015, at 13:24, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The used globalstar phones without Spot are cheap on eBay. Current model is around 200. Might have to pull the trigger! ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft
Jake I think I remember you having a drive saver too. Yours is made by globe but the electrical isolation is the same...unless you jumpered across the coupling. Isn't that enough to save your zincs? Do you worry about any other metals in the engine, through hulls, or water heater? Josh On Apr 2, 2015 5:47 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Rick, I built my own GI with instructions and parts from Yandina. It was a quick and easy project, although the installation under the cockpit was a bit of a challenge. Jake *Jake Brodersen* *Midnight Mistress* *CC 35 Mk-III* *Hampton VA* *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick Brass via CnC-List *Sent:* Wednesday, April 01, 2015 9:17 PM *To:* 'Josh Muckley'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft Excellent summary, Josh. I recall the breakover voltage as .6 not .7, but the effect is the same. 1.2 or 1.4 volts of breakover from two diodes in series will stop the galvanic current. And for the frugal among us, and I think that covers most all sailors with boats under about 50 feet, the price of a 1000 volt, 50 amp diode at Radio Shack is about $2.99. Add a small project box, some wire, and a couple of stud terminals, and you've got a homemade galvanic isolator for about $20-25. Rick Brass Washington, NC ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 35-3 Keel Joint
I've said this before and I'll say it again... It's only called the C$C smile because CC made so many boats, most of which are still active and sailing. Many boats with swept fin keels develop a crack on the leading edge for a few reasons. Hitting something. Storage with the weight on the trailing edge of the keel that makes the entire keel turn into a lever weakening the sealant around the leading bolts. Etcetera. Wal Jake wrote: snip The “CC Smile” as it is known, often appears as the hull to keel joint opens up. snip ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 35-3 Keel Joint
I had the keel dropped, a number of years ago. There was a huge void around the forward keel bolt, and terribly smelly water came out of the keel bolt hole. The yard ground the stub and the top of the keel, epoxied the two together, filled the void with epoxy and wrapped the joint with glass. No problems since. Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR Anyone else have annual issues with the keel joint on this boat? I've owned the boat only three seasons, but it's been a source of frustration every year. I've never understood the design, especially the 4 foot long front bolt. The keel was rebed and the bolts tourqed two years ago, but still every fall when I haul out there is crack in the joint across the front 1/3 - 1/2 of the keel. The only semi-permanent solution the yard can think of is to encase the joint in glass, but admits with all the flexing that clearly goes on, it's probably not much of a solution. Should I resign myself to just filling and fairing with caulk every spring before the bottom paint goes on? The boat had only one owner before me and it's been at the same yard for all its 31 years, so they know it well, but thought I'd get an opinion from the group. Erik Chicago CC 35 MKIII Slapshot ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger
Since your zinc was completely gone, I’d take it to a rad shop and have them replace the seals, boil it and pressure test it ... and I bet they’d replace the zinc too. Peace of mind! From: dwight veinot via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 6:01 AM To: David Knecht ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger Only the threads on the cap hold the zinc in my M4-30 heat exchanger and the zinc pencil is treaded into the bronze cap so the cap is reusable. Despite that the engine is fresh water cooled and charged with a 50/50 water antifreeze mix I change the zinc pencil about every 2 years and I use teflon tape on the cap treads that meet up with the heat exchanger...the zincs are only partially eaten away after 2 years and could probably go longer but why try for longer, they are inexpensive to replace. I find it better to shorten the zinc pencils to about 1 inch or so showing above the treads, that makes installation from underneathe easier for me. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Thu, Apr 2, 2015 at 9:08 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Last weekend I managed to take the heat exchanger off my Universal M4-30 in order to figure out why it was leaking antifreeze. The trick that seemed to get the bolt I was having trouble with unstuck was heat from a grill lighter. Now that I have it home, I am going to replace the seals and O rings from the end caps. The zinc was completely gone, so doing that as well. I took the cap off the zinc but an inner threaded part stayed in place and nothing is sticking into the exchanger except the nub of zinc. 1. Am I right in presuming that nothing is holding it in there except gunk and corrosion and I can bang it out from the outside? This may be more obvious when I have the new part. 2. When I replace it, should I put something like Tefgel/Marelube on the threads or Loctite? 3. The larger problem is that several of the ports for tubing connections are seriously out of round as if they were mashed at some point (I don’t see how could have done it so I am blaming the proverbial PO). Should I worry about this and presume the clamp and flexibility of the tubing will seal (it seemed the end cap that was leaking, not the tubing ports) or is there some way to round the soft brass of the ports? Thanks as always- Dave . Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spot sat phone
Thanks. I'm go going to go with a used phone and no plan. The deal works out to about the same cost as buying a phone and the minutes I need. On Thursday, April 2, 2015, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: Joel, Under the heading of Timing is Everything, I got an email from SPOT yesterday about getting free phone. When you buy the phone you get a rebate up to $499 if you sign up for a service plan. The lowest cost service plans are 100 minutes a month for $65, or 1200 minutes a year for $780 ( which they call a seasonal plan). Details are probably on the SPOT website. Rick Brass Sent from my iPad On Mar 28, 2015, at 13:24, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); wrote: The used globalstar phones without Spot are cheap on eBay. Current model is around 200. Might have to pull the *trigger!* -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List CC 35-3 Keel Joint
Anyone else have annual issues with the keel joint on this boat? I've owned the boat only three seasons, but it's been a source of frustration every year. I've never understood the design, especially the 4 foot long front bolt. The keel was rebed and the bolts tourqed two years ago, but still every fall when I haul out there is crack in the joint across the front 1/3 - 1/2 of the keel. The only semi-permanent solution the yard can think of is to encase the joint in glass, but admits with all the flexing that clearly goes on, it's probably not much of a solution. Should I resign myself to just filling and fairing with caulk every spring before the bottom paint goes on? The boat had only one owner before me and it's been at the same yard for all its 31 years, so they know it well, but thought I'd get an opinion from the group. ErikChicagoCC 35 MKIII Slapshot___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story
I'm sharing an electrical problem right now in the hope that someone here on this list has had a similar problem and solved it... Over the winter I added an auxiliary 19-gallon diesel tank under the nav station seat. I decided to buy 2 new fuel gauges, one for the new auxiliary fuel tank and the other a replacement of a 30-year old fuel gauge for the primary diesel tank. Both (Sierra-brand) gauges are mounted in the cockpit coaming on the port side with nice labels. My 30-year old fuel gauge was working fine but it was mounted in the engine panel and didn't match the color and style of the other gauges--this is primarily why I replaced it. I made a nice teak pad (located inside near the gauges) on which I mounted terminals and bus bars to properly organize the new wiring for all the gauges. I completely wired up the new fuel gauges in accordance with the instructions. (I rewired so that I could get rid of a lot of old un-tinned wire.) When I turned on the ignition to check the gauges function, the needles on both gauges moved to below empty. This usually means an open circuit on the sender side. I've thoroughly checked all the wiring and the gauges and I can't find any problem with the wiring or the gauges. I've checked the resistance across the sender on the new auxiliary tank and it measures 230 ohms--since that tank is empty, the resistance sounds about right. The primary tank's sender is more difficult to access, so I couldn't measure it. Last night, I checked the tank's grounding by running some extra temporary ground wires--no difference. What's weird is that the problem is affecting both gauges the same way. Any ideas as to what the problem may be? Its almost like the polarity of the power input is reversed, but it isn't. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 1981 30 MK1 2GM20F HELP
I think these originally came from Keith M... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n8ws96JB_Us/VR13nne0iiI/DAg/xgWqV0TbMuo/w1299-h813-no/yanmarB_type_wiring.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I2Jm_D2DPW0/VR13n-e8cWI/DAk/JYRPj2t7gRg/w1367-h813-no/yanmarA_type_wiring.jpg Have fun! Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 2 April 2015 at 09:37, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Does anybody have a photo of the back side of the insturment panel on a Yanmar 2GM20F? If I lift the test switch on the front panle the buzzer will sound, However when I turn the key on to start the engine the oil pressure buzzer is not sounding? What is suspose happen when I stick the key in and turn it to the on position it should Buzz untill I push the start button, the engine starts and builds oil pressure there by turning the switch off? right? then I pulled the wire off the top of the buzzer and tuched it to grounded iron in the etempt to make the buzzer sound no luck. Same thing with the temp with same results? I think when I installed this engine I wired it incorrectly? I'm at a loss and need help. I may have to hire someone to fix it? So a photo would be great or a dirogram thanks -- *Best regards,* *Curtis McDaniel, * *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady* Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. -Mark Twain http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/ *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com* * __/) * . ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft
Would the non fail-safe GI's pass a survey (or insurance claim for electrical injury)? Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Apr 2, 2015, at 11:35 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And Yandina’s basic GI (not a Failsafe model) is $90 (Defender) or $100 (Yandina direct) ... and it is rated as ignition protected. Optional capacitor available for another $90 (Yandina direct). From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 2:46 AM To: 'Rick Brass' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft Rick, I built my own GI with instructions and parts from Yandina. It was a quick and easy project, although the installation under the cockpit was a bit of a challenge. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 9:17 PM To: 'Josh Muckley'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft Excellent summary, Josh. I recall the breakover voltage as .6 not .7, but the effect is the same. 1.2 or 1.4 volts of breakover from two diodes in series will stop the galvanic current. And for the frugal among us, and I think that covers most all sailors with boats under about 50 feet, the price of a 1000 volt, 50 amp diode at Radio Shack is about $2.99. Add a small project box, some wire, and a couple of stud terminals, and you’ve got a homemade galvanic isolator for about $20-25. Rick Brass Washington, NC ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 35-3 Keel Joint
No issues with my 35-3 after six years. There are two other 35-3's in the yard I'm in. One looks fine like ours and the other is a bulging, splitting mess. We have had work done to replace tabbing in the keel sump - have a look around the sump to determine if there's anything flexing there. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Apr 2, 2015, at 12:19 PM, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Anyone else have annual issues with the keel joint on this boat? I've owned the boat only three seasons, but it's been a source of frustration every year. I've never understood the design, especially the 4 foot long front bolt. The keel was rebed and the bolts tourqed two years ago, but still every fall when I haul out there is crack in the joint across the front 1/3 - 1/2 of the keel. The only semi-permanent solution the yard can think of is to encase the joint in glass, but admits with all the flexing that clearly goes on, it's probably not much of a solution. Should I resign myself to just filling and fairing with caulk every spring before the bottom paint goes on? The boat had only one owner before me and it's been at the same yard for all its 31 years, so they know it well, but thought I'd get an opinion from the group. Erik Chicago CC 35 MKIII Slapshot ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Heat exchanger
Dave, if you try to round out the fittings, I believe it's called a swagging tool that should work for you. Hvac tools or maybe plumber or a rad shop. Maybe Harbour Freight or whatever that tool chain store is called will have one. Good luck. Len Mitchell CC 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft
For ABYC compliance it must be failsafe or with integral / external status monitoring for a failure. All DIY solutions would also not comply to the 'general requirements' of the GI ABYC section. Now whether this is highlighted during survey and any liabilities but noncompliance ... I leave to others. Ed ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft
I believe that ABYC only governs the practice of boat builders and boat repair contractors. I don't believe there is any requirement that our old boats have to be brought up to the current ABYC standards (which are always being improved). A survey done on your boat may recommend that something be changed to adhere to the current ABYC standards but that is the judgement of the marine surveyor. So, I think we need to think of ABYC standards with respect to our DIY projects as recommended guidelines when we are making changes--not as an absolute requirement. For example, ABYC recommends the use of tinned wire throughout a boat. Our old boats have mostly un-tinned wire throughout. Even though it's a good idea to replace the old un-tinned wire it is not a requirement for insurance purposes or safety purposes. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On Apr 2, 2015, at 1:28 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: For ABYC compliance it must be failsafe or with integral / external status monitoring for a failure. All DIY solutions would also not comply to the 'general requirements' of the GI ABYC section. Now whether this is highlighted during survey and any liabilities but noncompliance ... I leave to others. Ed ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
