Re: Stus-List US to Canada shipping

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I shipped a 7-pound propeller to another lister in California, cheapest
possible shipping was $50 CAD delivered sometime in this century. I just
received a 10-lb jar of calcium chloride from Home Despot shipped from New
Jersey in 3 days for $3.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 30 March 2016 at 18:03, Don Harben via CnC-List 
wrote:

> US shipping to Canada argh expensive learning ...
>
> USPS coming to Canada Post is my only acceptable shipper.
>
> Divide the shipping items into smaller value packages can sometimes result
> in coming  through with no brokerage or sales taxes.  No duty has ever been
> due. Canada Post brokerage is typically only $5 compared to $25=>$50=>$100
> with the big name couriers.
>
> There are shipping addresses for couriers in most US border towns.  This
> works but always always always declare... Seizure of your car or boat, let
> alone the goods and fines are not unrealistic possibilities. A friend had
> to go to court in the Saulte .. Declaration at the border usually means
> paying the sales taxes.
>
> Did I say 35% to 45% exchange rates depending upon your credit card,
> Interac , or Paypal piece of the pie .
>
> Don
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Possible offer on a 86' C MKIII - with photos/video

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

My surveyor laughed when I said I was going to change out my 1984 rod.
"Nobody here changes their rig."
Strangely enough, there's a lot of truth in that in this part of the rain
forest.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 30 March 2016 at 17:56, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chris,
>
>
>
> The exposed core around the mast could be an issue, but it depends on how
> far it goes.  On my boat the core around the mast is plywood and has
> several inches of play.  That’s where mast wedges are normally placed.  You
> may be able to cut back the core to solid wood.  I used epoxy to seal the
> edges of my core and have had no issues.
>
>
>
> The boom hinge looks mostly cosmetic.  You could remove it, clean it up,
> and spray paint it with Krylon to make it look better.  It doesn’t appear
> to be functionally deficient.
>
>
>
> A little paint issue on the engine isn’t cause for much concern.  Yours
> looks much better than mine. What matters more is how well the inside of
> the engine has been taken care of, e.g. oil changes and such.
>
>
>
> Leaking portlights will need to be replaced.  Silicone is just a band aid
> fix.
>
>
>
> A few loose stanchions are to be expected, unless they are caused by deck
> issues.  The stanchions on your boat are all mounted to the toerail, so it
> shouldn’t be a deck problem.
>
>
>
> Standing rigging does have limitations.  I have replaced or reheaded all
> of my standing rigging.  Depending on condition, a rigger might be needed
> to recommend which is right for you.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *CHRIS
> HOBSON via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 30, 2016 18:38
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* CHRIS HOBSON 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Possible offer on a 86' C MKIII - with photos/video
>
>
>
> Hoping to get some perspective from the group on a boat I’m interested in. I’m
> not a surveyor but I took some photos and video (in the link below) of a
> 86’ C MKIII I'm considering making an offer on. And would really
> appreciate some thoughts on it to save me the hassle of paying a surveyor
> if something is obviously wrong with it. The possible areas of concern
> without a proper survey and my limited knowledge are:
>
>
>
> - water in the core of the deck around the mast (see photos) haven’t tested
>
> - corroded boom (hinge?)
>
> - some bubbling/corrosion under paint on engine
>
> - bad seal around two large side port-lights, interior I saw silicone
> around perimeter
>
> - few loose stanchions
>
> - original (I think) standing rigging
>
>
>
> Short story is owner bought it a year ago didn’t sail it much or from what
> I’ve seen, maintain it. Here is a link to view the photos/video I took. I
> did not do a correct test with a hammer or moisture reader on deck but did
> walk around quite a bit and there was nothing obvious in the way of soft
> spots.
>
>
>
> Anyway here is the link would love to hear what others think:
>
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bx6tzmnoism-Y2g1UERWXzZ6NXM=sharing
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Chuck,
In my experience U.S.P.S. works best overall for shipments to Canada. The 
upfront shipping cost is often higher than for other carriers, but there is 
less added cost over and above the sales taxes, and for lower value items, 
there is usually no added cost or sales tax at all. Some vendors chose U.S.P.S. 
shipping options that are more expensive than necessary, but that is usually 
just carelessness. There are limits to what U.S.P.S. is willing to carry, but 
they will handle some pretty big packages. A fellow lister just sent me a 
complete below decks autopilot system, and years ago I got a complete radar 
system through the mail.
   I also had good experiences with FedEx for shipments where U.S.P.S. was not 
a choice, but that was some time ago, and I have no recent experience with 
them. 
Defender's web site did not give me a U.S.P.S. option for shipping to Canada 
when I placed my order last year, but perhaps they would have if I had 
telephoned.
Best,
Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C
Merritt Island, FL

 Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  wrote: 
Steve,
As the US rep for a Canadian company, can you tell me what other currier 
service works better than others for shipments from the states?  It seems that 
UPS has limits to their geographic distribution and often transfers goods to 
secondary carriers  like Purolator for local deliveries.  We see this in 
freight originating in Canada as well.
I know Defender will ship via US Postal to international destinations so 
perhaps that may be a solution if it isn't a huge oversize item.
Since the Canadian dollar isn't going too far in the US, on top of all the 
various fees and brokerage costs, perhaps this is the year to throw some 
Loonies at the home town retailer and help him keep his doors open.
Which I'm sure you already do.
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 30, 2016, at 8:10 PM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> One note of caution for my fellow Canadians. 
> I ordered a few things from Defender that were on sale last year, totalling 
> less than $200 U.S., and they insisted on sending it via U.P.S. I paid the 
> shipping in advance, along with the rest of the order. 
> When the U.P.S. driver showed up on my front porch, he wanted a further $93 
> Canadian for "brokerage" fees. U.P.S. sucks when it comes to cross border 
> shipments. I refused to accept the shipment. 
> I have no doubt at all that Defender is a good outfit, but their choice of 
> shipping company for Canadian addresses is not. I purchase goods online from 
> the States all the time and that was my worst shipping experience so far. 
> Most of the bad ones have involved U.P.S.
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON


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Re: Stus-List US to Canada shipping

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

US shipping to Canada argh expensive learning ...

USPS coming to Canada Post is my only acceptable shipper.

Divide the shipping items into smaller value packages can sometimes result in 
coming  through with no brokerage or sales taxes.  No duty has ever been due. 
Canada Post brokerage is typically only $5 compared to $25=>$50=>$100 with the 
big name couriers. 

There are shipping addresses for couriers in most US border towns.  This works 
but always always always declare... Seizure of your car or boat, let alone the 
goods and fines are not unrealistic possibilities. A friend had to go to court 
in the Saulte .. Declaration at the border usually means paying the sales 
taxes.

Did I say 35% to 45% exchange rates depending upon your credit card, Interac , 
or Paypal piece of the pie .

Don

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Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Chuck,

The best, for sure, is the Canada Post. They have a system, where if you (as
a US shipper) sign up with them, they charge a flat $5 fee for any cross
border handling of an item. But for that you have to be big enough that it
is worth the effort to set it up.

The next best is USPS. It comes out on this end via Canada Post, as well
(with all issue associated with it, but it is still better then most).

Then comes FedEx.

Then there is a very long gap

And then comes UPS.

On some items (especially bulky or heavy), it is worth its while to make a
trip to the border. Often times you can save $100 or more on shipping. If
you do, suddenly UPS is the best option.

My (Canadian) $0.02

Marek

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 20:47
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender sale

Steve,
As the US rep for a Canadian company, can you tell me what other currier
service works better than others for shipments from the states?  It seems
that UPS has limits to their geographic distribution and often transfers
goods to secondary carriers  like Purolator for local deliveries.  We see
this in freight originating in Canada as well.
I know Defender will ship via US Postal to international destinations so
perhaps that may be a solution if it isn't a huge oversize item.
Since the Canadian dollar isn't going too far in the US, on top of all the
various fees and brokerage costs, perhaps this is the year to throw some
Loonies at the home town retailer and help him keep his doors open.
Which I'm sure you already do.
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 30, 2016, at 8:10 PM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> 
> One note of caution for my fellow Canadians. 
> I ordered a few things from Defender that were on sale last year,
totalling less than $200 U.S., and they insisted on sending it via U.P.S. I
paid the shipping in advance, along with the rest of the order. 
> When the U.P.S. driver showed up on my front porch, he wanted a further
$93 Canadian for "brokerage" fees. U.P.S. sucks when it comes to cross
border shipments. I refused to accept the shipment. 
> I have no doubt at all that Defender is a good outfit, but their choice of
shipping company for Canadian addresses is not. I purchase goods online from
the States all the time and that was my worst shipping experience so far.
Most of the bad ones have involved U.P.S.
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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are greatly appreciated!

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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Possible offer on a 86' C MKIII - with photos/video

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Chris,

 

The exposed core around the mast could be an issue, but it depends on how far 
it goes.  On my boat the core around the mast is plywood and has several inches 
of play.  That’s where mast wedges are normally placed.  You may be able to cut 
back the core to solid wood.  I used epoxy to seal the edges of my core and 
have had no issues.

 

The boom hinge looks mostly cosmetic.  You could remove it, clean it up, and 
spray paint it with Krylon to make it look better.  It doesn’t appear to be 
functionally deficient.

 

A little paint issue on the engine isn’t cause for much concern.  Yours looks 
much better than mine. What matters more is how well the inside of the engine 
has been taken care of, e.g. oil changes and such.

 

Leaking portlights will need to be replaced.  Silicone is just a band aid fix.  

 

A few loose stanchions are to be expected, unless they are caused by deck 
issues.  The stanchions on your boat are all mounted to the toerail, so it 
shouldn’t be a deck problem.

 

Standing rigging does have limitations.  I have replaced or reheaded all of my 
standing rigging.  Depending on condition, a rigger might be needed to 
recommend which is right for you.

 

Cheers,

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of CHRIS HOBSON 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 18:38
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: CHRIS HOBSON 
Subject: Stus-List Possible offer on a 86' C MKIII - with photos/video

 

Hoping to get some perspective from the group on a boat I’m interested in. I’m 
not a surveyor but I took some photos and video (in the link below) of a 86’ 
C MKIII I'm considering making an offer on. And would really appreciate some 
thoughts on it to save me the hassle of paying a surveyor if something is 
obviously wrong with it. The possible areas of concern without a proper survey 
and my limited knowledge are:

 

- water in the core of the deck around the mast (see photos) haven’t tested

- corroded boom (hinge?) 

- some bubbling/corrosion under paint on engine

- bad seal around two large side port-lights, interior I saw silicone around 
perimeter 

- few loose stanchions 

- original (I think) standing rigging

 

Short story is owner bought it a year ago didn’t sail it much or from what I’ve 
seen, maintain it. Here is a link to view the photos/video I took. I did not do 
a correct test with a hammer or moisture reader on deck but did walk around 
quite a bit and there was nothing obvious in the way of soft spots. 

 

Anyway here is the link would love to hear what others think:





https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bx6tzmnoism-Y2g1UERWXzZ6NXM 

 =sharing





Cheers

Chris





 





 

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Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

This is an ongoing issue with UPS (if you cross-border shop). They always
charged an exorbitant fee for "brokerage fees". If you can try shipping to a
UPS store at the border (if it is feasible at the location you are at, but
for Port Stanley, you can make a trip, probably) or you can try convincing
the shipper that a USPS is better (sometimes it works).

Marek
In Ottawa, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
sthoma20--- via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 20:10
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender sale


One note of caution for my fellow Canadians. 
I ordered a few things from Defender that were on sale last year, totalling
less than $200 U.S., and they insisted on sending it via U.P.S. I paid the
shipping in advance, along with the rest of the order. 
When the U.P.S. driver showed up on my front porch, he wanted a further $93
Canadian for "brokerage" fees. U.P.S. sucks when it comes to cross border
shipments. I refused to accept the shipment. 
I have no doubt at all that Defender is a good outfit, but their choice of
shipping company for Canadian addresses is not. I purchase goods online from
the States all the time and that was my worst shipping experience so far.
Most of the bad ones have involved U.P.S.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON



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are greatly appreciated!

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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Steve,
As the US rep for a Canadian company, can you tell me what other currier 
service works better than others for shipments from the states?  It seems that 
UPS has limits to their geographic distribution and often transfers goods to 
secondary carriers  like Purolator for local deliveries.  We see this in 
freight originating in Canada as well.
I know Defender will ship via US Postal to international destinations so 
perhaps that may be a solution if it isn't a huge oversize item.
Since the Canadian dollar isn't going too far in the US, on top of all the 
various fees and brokerage costs, perhaps this is the year to throw some 
Loonies at the home town retailer and help him keep his doors open.
Which I'm sure you already do.
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 30, 2016, at 8:10 PM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> One note of caution for my fellow Canadians. 
> I ordered a few things from Defender that were on sale last year, totalling 
> less than $200 U.S., and they insisted on sending it via U.P.S. I paid the 
> shipping in advance, along with the rest of the order. 
> When the U.P.S. driver showed up on my front porch, he wanted a further $93 
> Canadian for "brokerage" fees. U.P.S. sucks when it comes to cross border 
> shipments. I refused to accept the shipment. 
> I have no doubt at all that Defender is a good outfit, but their choice of 
> shipping company for Canadian addresses is not. I purchase goods online from 
> the States all the time and that was my worst shipping experience so far. 
> Most of the bad ones have involved U.P.S.
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Possible offer on a 86' C MKIII - with photos/video

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

The floorboards in the main cabin are new, the small one in the V-berth is
the original. The interior has had a pretty good makeover, but I'd lose the
crooked wine rack.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 30 March 2016 at 17:32, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> OK, so the windows likely have to be replaced or re-bedded.  And the tarp
> over the foredeck makes me expect that hatch leaks.  Otherwise it doesn't
> look too bad.   The area around the mast is confusing, there should be a
> glass / gelcoat surface there.
>
> I do find it odd when people are selling a boat and can't be bothered to
> do the easy things like scrub mold off the deck.
>
> A good survey is a must though!
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2016-03-30 7:38 PM, CHRIS HOBSON via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hoping to get some perspective from the group on a boat I’m interested in. I’m
> not a surveyor but I took some photos and video (in the link below) of a
> 86’ C MKIII I'm considering making an offer on. And would really
> appreciate some thoughts on it to save me the hassle of paying a surveyor
> if something is obviously wrong with it. The possible areas of concern
> without a proper survey and my limited knowledge are:
>
> - water in the core of the deck around the mast (see photos) haven’t tested
> - corroded boom (hinge?)
> - some bubbling/corrosion under paint on engine
> - bad seal around two large side port-lights, interior I saw silicone
> around perimeter
> - few loose stanchions
> - original (I think) standing rigging
>
> Short story is owner bought it a year ago didn’t sail it much or from what
> I’ve seen, maintain it. Here is a link to view the photos/video I took. I
> did not do a correct test with a hammer or moisture reader on deck but did
> walk around quite a bit and there was nothing obvious in the way of soft
> spots.
>
> Anyway here is the link would love to hear what others think:
>
>
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bx6tzmnoism-Y2g1UERWXzZ6NXM=sharing
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine Compartment Noise Barrier

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Mine was badly decaying and making a huge mess.  I didn't do a lot of
shopping for new.  I just got the SoundDown kit from Jamestown Marine.  It
worked well enough. Certainly looks way better and doesn't make a mess
anymore.

Just don't think for a second that will make your old diesel pur like a
Prius.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
We're refinishing the sole on Alera and decided to also refinish the
steps.  The lower portion of the steps also serves as the aft engine
compartment hatch.  Since the screws fro the back of th steps are under the
soundproofing I am considering replacing the 20+year old soundproofing with
the latest "new and improved" soundproofing.

I ran across this nice blog post on the subject -
http://captnmike.com/2016/03/24/new-sound-insulation-sound-proofing-the-engine-compartment/

My questions for the list are:

1.  Have there been significant improvements in marine s9oundproofing
making the replacement of the old with new worth the expense and bother?

2.  Anyone done this recently?

3.  Smartassed remarks on this or any other unrelated subjects.

thx

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Erik,

 

I’ve done the cutless bearing on my boat twice.  I’ve removed the rudder both 
times.  It’s not that hard and it went quicker the second time around.  As 
others have said, removing the shaft from the coupling is usually the hardest 
part.  I had a friend that build a jig to push the shaft out.  Worked great.  
The first time I used sockets between the coupler faces to force the shaft out. 
 It was a slow painful process.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 17:05
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

 

It requires medium to reasonable skills, and some luck.

I doubt it that on a C 35 that the rudder would have to be removed.

Problem 1: Pulling the prop. Often, you need to heat up the prop in order to 
remove the prop

Problem 2: Remove old bearing. There are specific pullers that can be used to 
remove the old bearing. They work most of the time. If they don't it is likely 
that you would have to take out the shaft, and then cut the bearing with a 
hacksaw blade.

Removing the shaft may have its own problems, mostly getting the shaft off the 
transmission coupling, which is usually quite a task.

 

So the answer is: It depends.

I prefer to give it to the yard. They have specific tools, so the labor cost 
usually is reasonable.

Ahmet

Boston, MA

 

 

On Wed, Mar 30, 2016 at 12:45 PM, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Having only owned the boat 3 years I've never had to change this before, but I 
noticed while greasing my max prop that there is a lot of play in the prop 
shaft and the bearing definitely needs replaced.

 

How difficult of a job is this?  Does the rudder have to be removed to remove 
the prop shaft?  How likely is an amateur to make a very costly mistake in the 
course of removing the shaft from the coupling and removing the bearing from 
the strut?  The yard tells me this is a half day job at least, which means $$$ 
if I have them do it.  I'm weighing the cost-benefit of saving money by 
replacing this myself and the possible cost of a screwing up the job and 
needing them to come in anyway.  

 

Erik 

C 35-3


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Re: Stus-List Possible offer on a 86' C MKIII - with photos/video

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

OK, so the windows likely have to be replaced or re-bedded.  And the 
tarp over the foredeck makes me expect that hatch leaks.  Otherwise it 
doesn't look too bad.   The area around the mast is confusing, there 
should be a glass / gelcoat surface there.


I do find it odd when people are selling a boat and can't be bothered to 
do the easy things like scrub mold off the deck.


A good survey is a must though!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2016-03-30 7:38 PM, CHRIS HOBSON via CnC-List wrote:
Hoping to get some perspective from the group on a boat I’m interested 
in. I’m not a surveyor but I took some photos and video (in the link 
below) of a 86’ C MKIII I'm considering making an offer on. And 
would really appreciate some thoughts on it to save me the hassle of 
paying a surveyor if something is obviously wrong with it. The 
possible areas of concern without a proper survey and my limited 
knowledge are:


- water in the core of the deck around the mast (see photos) haven’t 
tested

- corroded boom (hinge?)
- some bubbling/corrosion under paint on engine
- bad seal around two large side port-lights, interior I saw silicone 
around perimeter

- few loose stanchions
- original (I think) standing rigging

Short story is owner bought it a year ago didn’t sail it much or from 
what I’ve seen, maintain it. Here is a link to view the photos/video I 
took. I did not do a correct test with a hammer or moisture reader on 
deck but did walk around quite a bit and there was nothing obvious in 
the way of soft spots.


Anyway here is the link would love to hear what others think:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bx6tzmnoism-Y2g1UERWXzZ6NXM=sharing

Cheers
Chris






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Re: Stus-List Possible offer on a 86' C MKIII - with photos/video

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

The biggest problem spot on the 35-3 is the mast step. If that is healthy,
everything else is gravy. (I jest). I took a small tapping hammer with me
when I went to look at our boat and did some basic sounding down in the
bilge.
It's not that hard to do a lot of the things that need doing, it just takes
time, money, patience, and a healthy dose of stupidity.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 30 March 2016 at 15:51, John Pennie via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Make no mistake this boat is going to be a project.  There are some areas
> that look lovingly restored.  Others, well, not so much.  I suspect
> everything, repeat everything leaks.  Whenever I see a tarp over a cabin I
> get nervous.  If the deck is sound it’s just a lot of removing fixtures,
> clean, caulk and rebed.  If the deck is wet, fasten your seat belt.
>
> Gooseneck (boom hinge) I didn’t see a picture of.  Worst case is a new
> fitting which isn’t terrible.
> Engine paint - probably not a concern but you want to know the cause
> Port lights - see comment above
> Loose stanchions - that’s a big question mark.  It could be a sign of a
> wet deck, it could be just a different definition of loose.  Investigate
> Original standing rigging - it should probably be replaced once every 30
> years if it needs it or not.
>
> If the price is right is could be a fun project and a rewarding boat.  You
> do have to ask yourself if you’re willing to take on the project and learn
> the skills required.  This lists a tremendous resource and others, far more
> knowledgeable, will chime in I’m sure.
>
> The  big plus is the newer engine.
>
> Good luck
>
> John
>
> On Mar 30, 2016, at 6:38 PM, CHRIS HOBSON via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hoping to get some perspective from the group on a boat I’m interested in. I’m
> not a surveyor but I took some photos and video (in the link below) of a
> 86’ C MKIII I'm considering making an offer on. And would really
> appreciate some thoughts on it to save me the hassle of paying a surveyor
> if something is obviously wrong with it. The possible areas of concern
> without a proper survey and my limited knowledge are:
>
> - water in the core of the deck around the mast (see photos) haven’t tested
> - corroded boom (hinge?)
> - some bubbling/corrosion under paint on engine
> - bad seal around two large side port-lights, interior I saw silicone
> around perimeter
> - few loose stanchions
> - original (I think) standing rigging
>
> Short story is owner bought it a year ago didn’t sail it much or from what
> I’ve seen, maintain it. Here is a link to view the photos/video I took. I
> did not do a correct test with a hammer or moisture reader on deck but did
> walk around quite a bit and there was nothing obvious in the way of soft
> spots.
>
> Anyway here is the link would love to hear what others think:
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bx6tzmnoism-Y2g1UERWXzZ6NXM=sharing
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
>
>
>
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>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

One note of caution for my fellow Canadians. 
I ordered a few things from Defender that were on sale last year, totalling 
less than $200 U.S., and they insisted on sending it via U.P.S. I paid the 
shipping in advance, along with the rest of the order. 
When the U.P.S. driver showed up on my front porch, he wanted a further $93 
Canadian for "brokerage" fees. U.P.S. sucks when it comes to cross border 
shipments. I refused to accept the shipment. 
I have no doubt at all that Defender is a good outfit, but their choice of 
shipping company for Canadian addresses is not. I purchase goods online from 
the States all the time and that was my worst shipping experience so far. Most 
of the bad ones have involved U.P.S.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON



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Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Chuck, are all the pre-made halyards listed online, or are three more 
variations in-store?

Thanks, I may see you on Saturday.  I've placed an order online, but may come 
in for line and batteries.

Thanks,

Tim
(Ex 35-3)

> On Mar 30, 2016, at 4:29 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I will be working at the sale all 4 days in the rope/ cut goods area.  
> Defender stocked up big time on Novabraid mooring pendants and pre-made 
> halyards so if you need either of these items, stop by and I'll help you.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 30, 2016, at 3:52 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Ah yes, the Defender sale. In other words, the time of year where my wife 
>> yells: “Red Alert! Shields Up!"
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mar 30, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> The annual Defender sale is on.  Already placed an order.
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Joel 
>>> 301 541 8551
>>> ___
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C 34

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

This guy (may be here) has a 34. See his video on lines led aft. Maybe
helpful.

https://youtu.be/zSCV6FlJY54

On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 12:01 PM Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey Patrick
>
> That would be awesome; so much of this stuff is definitely better thinking
> it out in person and with the materials at hand.
>
> What’s your schedule tomorrow or next week? I’m kind of hobbled right now
> after a bike wreck (rear-ended while waiting to turn left onto Wallingford
> from 34th) so I’ll probably be working from home tomorrow and could walk
> down to the boat from my place (36th and Wallingford). Next week I’m hoping
> to be at the office but maybe we could meet after work or something.
>
> Andrew
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> Sent with Airmail
>
> On March 24, 2016 at 11:49:13 AM, Patrick Davin (jda...@gmail.com) wrote:
>
> Hey Andrew,
>
> I'm in Seattle, work near the Fremont Bridge, and frequently bike by Lake
> Union on my way home. If we can find a time I'd be happy to drop by
> sometime - might be easier to get some ideas in person, and there's a lot
> to cover.
>
> Looks like you're at Affinity, just past Fremont Brewing, which I walk by
> almost every afternoon to get in a post-lunch walk (and window shop the
> boats at the Pacific Seacraft brokerage).
>
> External reef lines on the boom shouldn't be a problem - I have that, they
> run down to a block on the mast collar. If centered, there shouldn't be
> much stretch as the boom moves out.
>
> -Patrick
> C LF38
>
> On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 9:00 AM,  wrote:
>
>> Hi all - First time poster here, so let me know if I’m doing any of this
>> incorrectly. Brief introduction: my name is Andrew Means, I own the S.V.
>> Safari, a C 34 MKI moored on Lake Union in Seattle, WA, with three of my
>> friends. We sail the Safari—mostly casually—around the Puget Sound region.
>> You can see a pic of the Safari here: http://imgur.com/OdrC0Bk
>>
>> Now to the questions: I'm in the process of reworking my running rigging
>> and I'm curious to see how other C 34 owners run lines aft to the
>> cockpit. Which lines do you run? How do you get them aft? Which do you
>> consider the most important to have in the cockpit?
>>
>> I've been looking through pictures of C 34s online (mostly found in
>> for-sale listings) and trying to get a handle on the best way to run our
>> main sheet, vang (to be installed), reefing lines, topping lift, outhaul,
>> etc.. I think I have resigned myself to the fact that with our boom
>> (original to the boat) we probably aren't going to be able to have the
>> reefing lines run aft to the cockpit because they run externally on the
>> port side of the boom and a swinging boom would tigthen/loosen them if they
>> were run back to a turning block on the mast.
>>
>> *Priorities:*
>> We are generally casual cruisers, often with inexperienced crew. Safety
>> while reefing is a big priority, but as noted above I don't see how we can
>> run the lines back to the cockpit without a completely new boom with
>> internal reefing lines. Prove me wrong?
>>
>> Here's the state of the union:
>>
>> *Boom, Port Side - *http://i.imgur.com/yTDeEWR.jpg
>> The 1st and 2nd reefing lines terminate on the boom. Topping lift is
>> currently cleated mid-boom, which is super annoying. It would be nice to
>> have the topping lift  run aft. I’ve been told that the cam cleats are not
>> suitable for cleating reefing lines (and I agree, as they’ve slipped out
>> before).
>>
>> *Boom, Starboard Side* - http://i.imgur.com/ixYRPwy.jpg
>> Outhaul, flattening reef.
>>
>> *Mast Base, Port Side* - http://i.imgur.com/7kozeHd.jpg
>> Deck organizer currently has main halyard (red fleck) and main sheet
>> (blue fleck). Main halyard enters the mast just below the gooseneck.
>>
>> *Mast Base, Starboard Side* - http://i.imgur.com/XTkuphN.jpg
>> Our Jib Halyard is going to be replaced and we're going to get a haylard
>> bag on the mast. We'll also likely remove some of this deck hardware (that
>> aft winch will be moved to the starboard side of the companionway to handle
>> other lines.)
>>
>> *Cabintop cleats & winch (port)* - http://i.imgur.com/DHavs7p.jpg
>> I'm replacing these abominations with a proper triple rope clutch,
>> forward of the winch.
>>
>> Well, what do you folks think? For cruising around Puget Sound, San
>> Juans, etc. and a little bit of beer can racing, how would you set this up?
>> Pics of your own setup would be hugely appreciated, especially if you've
>> got a C 34 or something of similar vintage!
>>
>> Thanks in advance for the advice, looking forward to knowing other C
>> owners!
>>
>> Andrew
>>
>> --
>> Andrew Means
>>
>
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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This 

Re: Stus-List Possible offer on a 86' C MKIII - with photos/video

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Make no mistake this boat is going to be a project.  There are some areas that 
look lovingly restored.  Others, well, not so much.  I suspect everything, 
repeat everything leaks.  Whenever I see a tarp over a cabin I get nervous.  If 
the deck is sound it’s just a lot of removing fixtures, clean, caulk and rebed. 
 If the deck is wet, fasten your seat belt.

Gooseneck (boom hinge) I didn’t see a picture of.  Worst case is a new fitting 
which isn’t terrible.
Engine paint - probably not a concern but you want to know the cause
Port lights - see comment above
Loose stanchions - that’s a big question mark.  It could be a sign of a wet 
deck, it could be just a different definition of loose.  Investigate
Original standing rigging - it should probably be replaced once every 30 years 
if it needs it or not.

If the price is right is could be a fun project and a rewarding boat.  You do 
have to ask yourself if you’re willing to take on the project and learn the 
skills required.  This lists a tremendous resource and others, far more 
knowledgeable, will chime in I’m sure.

The  big plus is the newer engine.

Good luck

John

> On Mar 30, 2016, at 6:38 PM, CHRIS HOBSON via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hoping to get some perspective from the group on a boat I’m interested in. 
> I’m not a surveyor but I took some photos and video (in the link below) of a 
> 86’ C MKIII I'm considering making an offer on. And would really appreciate 
> some thoughts on it to save me the hassle of paying a surveyor if something 
> is obviously wrong with it. The possible areas of concern without a proper 
> survey and my limited knowledge are:
> 
> - water in the core of the deck around the mast (see photos) haven’t tested
> - corroded boom (hinge?) 
> - some bubbling/corrosion under paint on engine
> - bad seal around two large side port-lights, interior I saw silicone around 
> perimeter 
> - few loose stanchions 
> - original (I think) standing rigging
> 
> Short story is owner bought it a year ago didn’t sail it much or from what 
> I’ve seen, maintain it. Here is a link to view the photos/video I took. I did 
> not do a correct test with a hammer or moisture reader on deck but did walk 
> around quite a bit and there was nothing obvious in the way of soft spots. 
> 
> Anyway here is the link would love to hear what others think:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bx6tzmnoism-Y2g1UERWXzZ6NXM=sharing
>  
> 
> 
> Cheers
> Chris
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List relocating MAIN-SHEET

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Dave,

For similar reasons I set up Calypso’s mainsheet “Admiral’s Cup” style and left 
the traveller in place. Harken’s web site has a good diagram of the Admiral’s 
Cup main sheet system which allows for trimming the main from either side of 
the cockpit.  Search their web site using “mainsheet systems”.

Calypso’s mainsheet is continuous with one tail on each side.  The tails run 
out from the gooseneck area of the boom to the front of the jib track, then aft 
along the track to the jib sheet turning block (the big a** cheek block bolted 
to the deck) then to the cockpit secondary winches.

When the Mrs. has assumed the cruising position (AKA sitting on a cushion, book 
and cold drink in hand, typically blocking my effen sailing instruments) I am 
able to trim the main without disturbing her.  The location also allows for 
easier trimming while single or double-handing both racing and cruising.  A 
drawback is when we are flying the spinnaker and we want to use lazy sheets and 
guys.  When sailing/racing shorthanded we run a dual purpose line as both sheet 
and guy to simplify dip pole gybes.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: Description: 
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pamela & 
David via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 3:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Pamela & David
Subject: Stus-List relocating MAIN-SHEET

Hello

I have a C with the mainsheet traveler on the cabin roof. Really need to 
move it infront of the steering wheel as my wife prefers to read during tacks.  
Does anyone have pictures in where/how to reposition the traveler system.  Any 
help is appreciated.

David
Mudpuddle out of QCYC
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Stus-List Possible offer on a 86' C MKIII - with photos/video

[CHRIS HOBSON via CnC-List]

Hoping to get some perspective from the group on a boat I’m interested in. I’m 
not a surveyor but I took some photos and video (in the link below) of a 86’ 
C MKIII I'm considering making an offer on. And would really appreciate some 
thoughts on it to save me the hassle of paying a surveyor if something is 
obviously wrong with it. The possible areas of concern without a proper survey 
and my limited knowledge are:

- water in the core of the deck around the mast (see photos) haven’t tested
- corroded boom (hinge?) 
- some bubbling/corrosion under paint on engine
- bad seal around two large side port-lights, interior I saw silicone around 
perimeter 
- few loose stanchions 
- original (I think) standing rigging

Short story is owner bought it a year ago didn’t sail it much or from what I’ve 
seen, maintain it. Here is a link to view the photos/video I took. I did not do 
a correct test with a hammer or moisture reader on deck but did walk around 
quite a bit and there was nothing obvious in the way of soft spots. 

Anyway here is the link would love to hear what others think:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bx6tzmnoism-Y2g1UERWXzZ6NXM=sharing

Cheers
Chris




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Re: Stus-List relocating MAIN-SHEET

[Chuck Borge via CnC-List]

Hi David, 

I have the same set up on my 34.  At first I hated not having all the controls 
at the helm but I must say I've come to appreciate the cockpit space. 
Plus, to windward, I tend to play the traveller more than the sheet, and with a 
Harken traveller with cam cleats on the ends, leaving enough length on the 
control lines gives me reach from the helm. 
Lastly, the best thing I did for the Admiral was upgrade the mainsheet 10ST 
winch to a Harken 40ST. Now she can sheet in easier in a breeze, or I can pop 
up there for a quick adjust myself. 
In cruise mode I set the mainsheet, lock the trav in the middle and tack single 
handedly. Wifey never spills a drop. 

Chuck B
C
Somerset, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 30, 2016, at 6:09 PM, Pamela & David via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello
> 
> I have a C with the mainsheet traveler on the cabin roof. Really need to 
> move it infront of the steering wheel as my wife prefers to read during 
> tacks.  Does anyone have pictures in where/how to reposition the traveler 
> system.  Any help is appreciated.
> 
> David
> Mudpuddle out of QCYC
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List relocating MAIN-SHEET

[Pamela & David via CnC-List]

Hello

I have a C with the mainsheet traveler on the cabin roof. Really need
to move it infront of the steering wheel as my wife prefers to read during
tacks.  Does anyone have pictures in where/how to reposition the traveler
system.  Any help is appreciated.

David
Mudpuddle out of QCYC
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Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Dave,
I think they can special order most anything from Harken, but the real deals at 
the sale are on the items they keep in stock.  If you are able to physically go 
to the sale , there will be a Harken rep at the event all 4 days so you can 
pick out the exact thing you need.  Or you can call Defender's call center but 
you may want to have the Harken part numbers you need and don't expect a ton of 
engineering expertise from the special orders desk.
You may also want to check APS as I saw they're running a Harken sale as well.
I don't work for Defender or Harken.  I'm an ex-Edson guy that now runs the US 
office for Novabraid Ropes from Canada.
Happy shopping!
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1983 35 LF
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 30, 2016, at 4:54 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Chuck,
> 
> I'm in the process of organizing/reorganizing/updating my deck hardware. I'm 
> looking for some Harken footblocks that are not listed online or in the 
> catalog. Question: would they be able to be ordered through Defender?
> 
> And typical of me, I just placed an order for a bunch of stuff. Last week...
> 
> Best,
> Dave
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 30, 2016, at 16:29, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I will be working at the sale all 4 days in the rope/ cut goods area.  
>> Defender stocked up big time on Novabraid mooring pendants and pre-made 
>> halyards so if you need either of these items, stop by and I'll help you.
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> S/V Half Magic
>> 1983 LF 35
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Mar 30, 2016, at 3:52 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Ah yes, the Defender sale. In other words, the time of year where my wife 
>>> yells: “Red Alert! Shields Up!"
>>> 
>>> 
>>> All the best,
>>> 
>>> Edd
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Edd M. Schillay
>>> Starship Enterprise
>>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>> City Island, NY 
>>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>>> 
>>> 
 On Mar 30, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 The annual Defender sale is on.  Already placed an order.
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 ___
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Good one! I am taking that as a no.

A friend who owns a Shock 35 dropped his last summer - in the water -  and 
insisted "it will be no problem" and that the rudder "will float" so don't have 
to worry about salvaging it off the bottom.

Pretty sure he is off his meds .





From: CnC-List  on behalf of Ron Ander via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 2:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ander
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder


The funny answer is that you can drop it once!



Sorry, I couldn’t resist that answer.



Ron Ander

C 29 Mk 2

E.Y.C.







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Pope 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 4:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Pope
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder



Hello.

I am looking for advice on the same topic for my 86 29-2 so anything that 
answers Bob's questions below will be greatly appreciated by myself as well.

I hauled after purchase a year ago and the rudder was badly blistered.   I only 
had a week to work with (and a gazillion things to do)  as I was transporting 
and launching the boat to get it off my buddies loaner trailer so I ground out 
the blisters letting them drain, built a tarp house around the rudder and ran a 
hair dryer around the clock (until hairdryer melted) hoping to dry out as much 
as possible.  At the end of the week I puttied/faired,  painted on a couple 
base coats, a couple coats of antifoul and launched it.

The rudder is also very stiff (wheel steering) and is in obvious need of a 
service.



I am thinking the best plan would be to drop the rudder and open it up a bit 
more to completely dry it and/or inspect?

Hope this isn't too dopey a question but can I drop the rudder while the boat 
is in the water?



Regards,



Bruce

s/v 'Gyrfalcon'

'86 C 29 MK II

Kootenay Lake, BC













From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bob Hickson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 10:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bob Hickson
Subject: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder



A couple of weeks ago, I noticed a hair line crack in the leading edge of the 
rudder on my 29-2 (1985 built in the US plant)

This weekend, I sanded back from the leading edge about 6 inches in preparation 
for 2 layers of fiberglass cloth to be epoxied over the leading edge.

When I sanded back along the sides of the rudder, I found 8 to 10 holes 3/8 
inch diameter drilled through the port side and a couple of holes on the 
starboard side.

The holes are randomly located different distances from the front edge and over 
the full height of the rudder.

I drilled these old holes out and I am puzzled at what seems to be inside the 
rudder.

The coring appears to be a mixture of deteriorated balsa (I don’t think balsa 
coring was ever put into a rudder by C), deteriorated / wet foam and dry foam 
in good condition.

There also seem to be voids behind some of the holes about 2 to 3 inches in 
diameter.

I believe that the rudder must have been repaired by the PO.

I would rather not do a total rebuild on the rudder this spring.

My thoughts are to go ahead with 2 layers of glass cloth (first layer 5 inches 
/ second layer 10 inches wide) epoxied over the leading edge.

I was wondering about filling the rudder with a low viscosity epoxy. I would 
fill the bottom 12 inches first through holes in the sides and then work my way 
to the top of the rudder in 12 inch sections as the lower sections cured.

Does this sound like a reasonable plan?

Has anyone done a similar repair? If so how long has it lasted?

Does anyone know how many tangs are located in the rudder and there 
approximately location?



Fair Winds,



Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com






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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Ahmet via CnC-List]

It requires medium to reasonable skills, and some luck.
I doubt it that on a C 35 that the rudder would have to be removed.
Problem 1: Pulling the prop. Often, you need to heat up the prop in order
to remove the prop
Problem 2: Remove old bearing. There are specific pullers that can be used
to remove the old bearing. They work most of the time. If they don't it is
likely that you would have to take out the shaft, and then cut the bearing
with a hacksaw blade.
Removing the shaft may have its own problems, mostly getting the shaft off
the transmission coupling, which is usually quite a task.

So the answer is: It depends.
I prefer to give it to the yard. They have specific tools, so the labor
cost usually is reasonable.
Ahmet
Boston, MA


On Wed, Mar 30, 2016 at 12:45 PM, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Having only owned the boat 3 years I've never had to change this before,
> but I noticed while greasing my max prop that there is a lot of play in the
> prop shaft and the bearing definitely needs replaced.
>
> How difficult of a job is this?  Does the rudder have to be removed to
> remove the prop shaft?  How likely is an amateur to make a very costly
> mistake in the course of removing the shaft from the coupling and removing
> the bearing from the strut?  The yard tells me this is a half day job at
> least, which means $$$ if I have them do it.  I'm weighing the cost-benefit
> of saving money by replacing this myself and the possible cost of a
> screwing up the job and needing them to come in anyway.
>
> Erik
> C 35-3
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder

[Ron Ander via CnC-List]

The funny answer is that you can drop it once!

 

Sorry, I couldn't resist that answer.

 

Ron Ander

C 29 Mk 2

E.Y.C.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
Pope via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 4:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Pope
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder

 

Hello.

I am looking for advice on the same topic for my 86 29-2 so anything that
answers Bob's questions below will be greatly appreciated by myself as well.

I hauled after purchase a year ago and the rudder was badly blistered.   I
only had a week to work with (and a gazillion things to do)  as I was
transporting and launching the boat to get it off my buddies loaner trailer
so I ground out the blisters letting them drain, built a tarp house around
the rudder and ran a hair dryer around the clock (until hairdryer melted)
hoping to dry out as much as possible.  At the end of the week I
puttied/faired,  painted on a couple base coats, a couple coats of antifoul
and launched it.  

The rudder is also very stiff (wheel steering) and is in obvious need of a
service.

 

I am thinking the best plan would be to drop the rudder and open it up a bit
more to completely dry it and/or inspect?

Hope this isn't too dopey a question but can I drop the rudder while the
boat is in the water?  

 

Regards,

 

Bruce 

s/v 'Gyrfalcon'

'86 C 29 MK II

Kootenay Lake, BC

 

 

 

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bob Hickson via
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 10:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bob Hickson
Subject: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder 

 

A couple of weeks ago, I noticed a hair line crack in the leading edge of
the rudder on my 29-2 (1985 built in the US plant)

This weekend, I sanded back from the leading edge about 6 inches in
preparation for 2 layers of fiberglass cloth to be epoxied over the leading
edge.

When I sanded back along the sides of the rudder, I found 8 to 10 holes 3/8
inch diameter drilled through the port side and a couple of holes on the
starboard side.

The holes are randomly located different distances from the front edge and
over the full height of the rudder.

I drilled these old holes out and I am puzzled at what seems to be inside
the rudder.

The coring appears to be a mixture of deteriorated balsa (I don't think
balsa coring was ever put into a rudder by C), deteriorated / wet foam and
dry foam in good condition.

There also seem to be voids behind some of the holes about 2 to 3 inches in
diameter.

I believe that the rudder must have been repaired by the PO.

I would rather not do a total rebuild on the rudder this spring.

My thoughts are to go ahead with 2 layers of glass cloth (first layer 5
inches / second layer 10 inches wide) epoxied over the leading edge.

I was wondering about filling the rudder with a low viscosity epoxy. I would
fill the bottom 12 inches first through holes in the sides and then work my
way to the top of the rudder in 12 inch sections as the lower sections
cured.

Does this sound like a reasonable plan?

Has anyone done a similar repair? If so how long has it lasted?

Does anyone know how many tangs are located in the rudder and there
approximately location?

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

  bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Chuck,

I'm in the process of organizing/reorganizing/updating my deck hardware. I'm 
looking for some Harken footblocks that are not listed online or in the 
catalog. Question: would they be able to be ordered through Defender?

And typical of me, I just placed an order for a bunch of stuff. Last week...

Best,
Dave

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 30, 2016, at 16:29, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I will be working at the sale all 4 days in the rope/ cut goods area.  
> Defender stocked up big time on Novabraid mooring pendants and pre-made 
> halyards so if you need either of these items, stop by and I'll help you.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 30, 2016, at 3:52 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Ah yes, the Defender sale. In other words, the time of year where my wife 
>> yells: “Red Alert! Shields Up!"
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mar 30, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> The annual Defender sale is on.  Already placed an order.
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Joel 
>>> 301 541 8551
>>> ___
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I want to go to the sale but, they are returning my boat after the paint job 
and I'm not sure I'll be able to drag myself away from looking at my reflection 
in the hull!!  LOL

-- Original Message --
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender sale
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2016 16:29:21 -0400


I will be working at the sale all 4 days in the rope/ cut goods area.  Defender 
stocked up big time on Novabraid mooring pendants and pre-made halyards so if 
you need either of these items, stop by and I'll help you.Chuck GilchrestS/V 
Half Magic1983 LF 35

Sent from my iPad
On Mar 30, 2016, at 3:52 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

Ah yes, the Defender sale. In other words, the time of year where my wife 
yells: Red Alert! Shields Up!" All the best, Edd  Edd M. 
SchillayStarship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  On Mar 30, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List  wrote:The annual Defender sale is on.  
Already placed an order. -- Joel 301 541 
8551__

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greatly appreciated!___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>Could bolts be bonded to the hull with 5200 directly without teak or would 
>that not have enough surface area?

I concur with Dennis on the T slot(s) in the wood strip. Insert a bolt (maybe 
with a washer if room allows) and bond that assembly to the fiberglass.  The 
wood strip provides the needed bonding surface.

>Martin - Not planning any offshore work at this time.  Will be family cruising 
>in the Straight of Georgia.

Back in 2001 I left the Gibson’s Landing area of Howe Sound to cross the 
Straits of Georgia headed for Active Pass.  We had been anchored in a nice 
quiet bay sheltering us from the much stronger winds in the southern straits.  
By the time we were well into it, turning around was not a viable option and 
the Mrs. voted to keep going while we were still a bit sheltered from the full 
wind and seas.  Out in the Straits, the winds were +- 30 knots with higher 
gusts.  The seas had a fetch from all the way up past Comox and had worked 
themselves into some pretty sporty sailing conditions.  My 11 year old son was 
seasick and asked my wife if this was what it was like in the ocean.  Her 
response (she has sailed back from Hawaii with me twice) was “no, but very 
close”.  My son (between calls to Ralph regarding his Buick) indicated 
something about never going to sea.

For my part, I was enjoying a great broad reach sail with 1 reef in the main 
and a  #3 headsail. It was difficult to hide my smile.  The occasional wave 
breaking onto the foredeck did make the boat more entertaining to drive but not 
beyond my preference for adventurous sailing conditions.  I had the good sense 
to slow the boat and drive off downwind when the Mrs. needed to go below but my 
attempts to calm the motion were not sufficient enough for her to offer to make 
me a ham sandwich or pass up anything better to drink than water.

It was a relatively quick passage to the entrance of Active Pass.  With the 
positive current our SOG was in the 8 to 10 knot range for most of the 
crossing.  Within 15 minutes of entering the calmer water in the lee of Galiano 
Island our son was hungry again and back to normal.  The wind dropped off and 
we motored through Active Pass to spend the night anchored at Ganges, 
Saltspring Island.

My long term family friendly sailing takeaway from this particular crossing of 
the Straits would be to ignore the schedule pressure when the family is onboard 
and the Straits are a rocking.  Out of my approx. 25 crossings of the Straits 
of Georgia, 50% were calm to nice sailing, 15% were in high enough winds and 
seas to be uncomfortable.  This group includes an afternoon caught just north 
of Nanaimo in a forecasted “Qualicum” wind that came on suddenly and blew a 
solid 20+ for 5 hours. (The other 35% were racing.)

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

Dennis - thanks for the 3M 5200 to bond teak to the fiberglass idea.

David, I agree that bolts are better than screws.

Could bolts be bonded to the hull with 5200 directly without teak or would that 
not have enough surface area?

Martin - Not planning any offshore work at this time.  Will be family cruising 
in the Straight of Georgia.


>>Looking to strap down 3 batteries (2 group 27s and 1 group 24 ) under the 
>>quarter berth of a 1978 C 34-1 for cruising. Looks like someone has screwed 
>>into the sole there before.  Not sure what I'd be screwing into and how long 
>>a screw to use. The sole looks like it may have been originally molded for 2 
>>group 24s.  Interested to hear the list's advice.

Thanks,
  Jeremy
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Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I will be working at the sale all 4 days in the rope/ cut goods area.  Defender 
stocked up big time on Novabraid mooring pendants and pre-made halyards so if 
you need either of these items, stop by and I'll help you.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 LF 35

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 30, 2016, at 3:52 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ah yes, the Defender sale. In other words, the time of year where my wife 
> yells: “Red Alert! Shields Up!"
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
>> On Mar 30, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> The annual Defender sale is on.  Already placed an order.
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> ___
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Ah yes, the Defender sale. In other words, the time of year where my wife 
yells: “Red Alert! Shields Up!"


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 


> On Mar 30, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The annual Defender sale is on.  Already placed an order.
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___

___

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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Bill Connon via CnC-List]

Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List wrote:
Having only owned the boat 3 years I've never had to change this 
before, but I noticed while greasing my max prop that there is a lot 
of play in the prop shaft and the bearing definitely needs replaced.


How difficult of a job is this?  Does the rudder have to be removed to 
remove the prop shaft?  How likely is an amateur to make a very costly 
mistake in the course of removing the shaft from the coupling and 
removing the bearing from the strut?  The yard tells me this is a half 
day job at least, which means $$$ if I have them do it.  I'm weighing 
the cost-benefit of saving money by replacing this myself and the 
possible cost of a screwing up the job and needing them to come in 
anyway.


Erik
C 35-3


  Erik,
Jim Watts and I did the job ourselves without removing anything except 
the prop. My boat is a 36 and Jim's is a 35 III I believe so the puller 
is for a 1" shaft. I'll send a couple of pictures to your e-mail address 
so that you can see how the puller is set up. Pics courtesy of Jim Watts.


Bill Connon
Caprice 1


  



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Re: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If you want bolts, recess and epoxy some T-slot bolts from the back side of
the teak before you glue the teak to the hull.

http://www.amazon.com/1-2-T-Slot-Bolt/dp/B001DT135S/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial=UTF8=1459366923=1-2

Dennis C.

On Wed, Mar 30, 2016 at 1:33 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis - thanks for the 3M 5200 to bond teak to the fiberglass idea.
>
> David, I agree that bolts are better than screws.
>
> Could bolts be bonded to the hull with 5200 directly without teak or would
> that not have enough surface area?
>
> Martin - Not planning any offshore work at this time.  Will be family
> cruising in the Straight of Georgia.
>
>
> >>Looking to strap down 3 batteries (2 group 27s and 1 group 24 ) under
> the quarter berth of a 1978 C 34-1 for cruising. Looks like someone has
> screwed into the sole there before.  Not sure what I'd be screwing into and
> how long a screw to use. The sole looks like it may have been originally
> molded for 2 group 24s.  Interested to hear the list's advice.
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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Stus-List Engine Compartment Noise Barrier

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

We're refinishing the sole on Alera and decided to also refinish the 
steps.  The lower portion of the steps also serves as the aft engine 
compartment hatch.  Since the screws fro the back of th steps are 
under the soundproofing I am considering replacing the 20+year old 
soundproofing with the latest "new and improved" soundproofing.


I ran across this nice blog post on the subject - 
http://captnmike.com/2016/03/24/new-sound-insulation-sound-proofing-the-engine-compartment/


My questions for the list are:

1.  Have there been significant improvements in marine 
s9oundproofing making the replacement of the old with new worth the 
expense and bother?


2.  Anyone done this recently?

3.  Smartassed remarks on this or any other unrelated subjects.

thx

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Stus-List Defender sale

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

The annual Defender sale is on.  Already placed an order.

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… to hit the shaft with the slide-hammer, while it is still attached to the 
>transmission (I hear that transmissions don’t like this).

Yes, most if not all transmissions / reduction gears are not designed for that 
type of shock load on the output shaft.  I braced the coupling independent of 
the output shaft.

Other softer surfaces to protect include the shaft log or seal.  Good hard 
points to pull against include the engine mount beds/bolts.  Calypso has a lot 
of space under the cockpit making much of this type of work more straight 
forward.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 10:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic (hotmail)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

Erik,

the biggest mistake you can make is to hit the shaft with the slide-hammer, 
while it is still attached to the transmission (I hear that transmissions don’t 
like this).

Depending on your abilities, the second biggest mistake might be to do it 
yourself. I think that the task is reasonably straight forward, but this does 
not mean easy.

Marek
C270, Legato
Ottawa
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Stus-List cutlass bearing

[Al Goodman via CnC-List]

I just did this it took a total of about 3 hrs to take the old one out and
put the new one in.  If the yard will let you use the cutlass bearing puller
it's a piece of cake.

 

Al Goodman

Skylark

C 35 MKII

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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Erik,

the biggest mistake you can make is to hit the shaft with the slide-hammer, 
while it is still attached to the transmission (I hear that transmissions don’t 
like this).

Depending on your abilities, the second biggest mistake might be to do it 
yourself. I think that the task is reasonably straight forward, but this does 
not mean easy.

Marek
C270, Legato
Ottawa

From: Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 12:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Erik Hillenmeyer 
Subject: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

Having only owned the boat 3 years I've never had to change this before, but I 
noticed while greasing my max prop that there is a lot of play in the prop 
shaft and the bearing definitely needs replaced.

How difficult of a job is this?  Does the rudder have to be removed to remove 
the prop shaft?  How likely is an amateur to make a very costly mistake in the 
course of removing the shaft from the coupling and removing the bearing from 
the strut?  The yard tells me this is a half day job at least, which means $$$ 
if I have them do it.  I'm weighing the cost-benefit of saving money by 
replacing this myself and the possible cost of a screwing up the job and 
needing them to come in anyway.  

Erik 
C 35-3___

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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Erik,

When we replaced Calypso’s cutlass bearing a few years ago we did the easy work 
and paid the yard specialist to remove and replace the bearing.  Calypso’s 
rudder was already out for repairs from a log strike making removal of the prop 
shaft straight forward.

Removing the rudder was not as difficult as it looked however Calypso has good 
access to the steering quadrant and the rudder shaft bearings.  Many C’s do 
not have adequate clearance in this area.  Pulling the prop shaft out of the 
coupling was the only difficult part.  I ended up borrowing a slide 
hammer/shaft puller from the yard.

If you are mechanically inclined and have the time this type of project is a 
good way to get up close and personable with your boat’s mechanical gear.  If 
you are short of time and not familiar with this type of boat maintenance I 
recommend using the yard guy.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik 
Hillenmeyer via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 9:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Erik Hillenmeyer
Subject: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

Having only owned the boat 3 years I've never had to change this before, but I 
noticed while greasing my max prop that there is a lot of play in the prop 
shaft and the bearing definitely needs replaced.

How difficult of a job is this?  Does the rudder have to be removed to remove 
the prop shaft?  How likely is an amateur to make a very costly mistake in the 
course of removing the shaft from the coupling and removing the bearing from 
the strut?  The yard tells me this is a half day job at least, which means $$$ 
if I have them do it.  I'm weighing the cost-benefit of saving money by 
replacing this myself and the possible cost of a screwing up the job and 
needing them to come in anyway.

Erik
C 35-3
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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Erik,

I tried to do it with the rudder in place by pressing out the bearing.  The
thing almost worked.  I asked my mechanic to do it.  He removed the tranny
and slid the shaft forward - he said it was easier than dropping the
rudder, and he got out all of the old transmission oil.
I don't think you can screw it up, but you can waste a lot of time.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Wed, Mar 30, 2016 at 12:45 PM, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Having only owned the boat 3 years I've never had to change this before,
> but I noticed while greasing my max prop that there is a lot of play in the
> prop shaft and the bearing definitely needs replaced.
>
> How difficult of a job is this?  Does the rudder have to be removed to
> remove the prop shaft?  How likely is an amateur to make a very costly
> mistake in the course of removing the shaft from the coupling and removing
> the bearing from the strut?  The yard tells me this is a half day job at
> least, which means $$$ if I have them do it.  I'm weighing the cost-benefit
> of saving money by replacing this myself and the possible cost of a
> screwing up the job and needing them to come in anyway.
>
> Erik
> C 35-3
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List]

Having only owned the boat 3 years I've never had to change this before, but I 
noticed while greasing my max prop that there is a lot of play in the prop 
shaft and the bearing definitely needs replaced.
How difficult of a job is this?  Does the rudder have to be removed to remove 
the prop shaft?  How likely is an amateur to make a very costly mistake in the 
course of removing the shaft from the coupling and removing the bearing from 
the strut?  The yard tells me this is a half day job at least, which means $$$ 
if I have them do it.  I'm weighing the cost-benefit of saving money by 
replacing this myself and the possible cost of a screwing up the job and 
needing them to come in anyway.  
Erik C 35-3___

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Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry: Mike Hoyt Photos

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Richard

Yes Shawn Dunlop of Baddeck Photo takes great shots.  I purchased a digital 
copy of every shot that included our boat.

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 3:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry: Mike Hoyt Photos

Mike, what an awesome set of photos! I like every one of them! Thank you for 
sharing these...I'm ready to go sailing today!

Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>
To: cnc-list >
Cc: Hoyt, Mike >
Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 12:59 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry
… and the argument for Dark hulls???

http://baddeckphotos.com/regatta2015-yachts/#/view/ID256888



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Re: Stus-List 2017 Worldwide C Rendezvous location

[Ahmet via CnC-List]

It is amazing that they would have this kind of places in Mongolia. And it
is open until 4 am :)
Ahmet
Boston, MA

On Wed, Mar 30, 2016 at 8:38 AM, Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> they offer at least three kinds of steak on the menu (from what I could
> tell)
>
> Marek
>
> *From:* Jim Watts via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 30, 2016 00:10
> *To:* 1 CnC List 
> *Cc:* Jim Watts 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 2017 Worldwide C Rendezvous location
>
> Looks like a nicely stocked bar. I wonder how many flavours of fermented
> yak milk they have.
> http://candclounge.mn/upload/images/thumb/d5682af23df70c59dcdfb475ecc5862f.jpg
> Tough sailing for the last few hundred miles.
> On the bright side, they have English comedy night once a month.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 29 March 2016 at 20:12, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> That's awesome!
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Aaron
>> 79 30-1
>> Annapolis, MD
>>
>> On Mar 29, 2016, at 9:37 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Enough of the regional C rendezvous's. I suggest we have one big
>> worldwide C rendezvous and I've found just the place to host it.
>>
>> Where? What better place than The C Lounge, of course. Here's the
>> website: 
>>
>> Oh, did I mention you might need to translate the page? It's in
>> Ulaanbataar, Mongolia. Also, it's a little short on dockside facilities.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 2017 Worldwide C Rendezvous location

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Maybe we can get Wal to show up to this one…   :^)   He’s a pretty funny guy.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 29, 2016, at 11:09 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Looks like a nicely stocked bar. I wonder how many flavours of fermented yak 
> milk they have. 
> http://candclounge.mn/upload/images/thumb/d5682af23df70c59dcdfb475ecc5862f.jpg
>  
> 
> Tough sailing for the last few hundred miles. 
> On the bright side, they have English comedy night once a month. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC

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