Stus-List Removing Teak oil stain

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

The folks my prior owner hired for re-oiling the interior teak did a good job 
of cleaning / bleaching the old stuff and a decent job of re-oiling (they may 
have used Cetol )

But they did an absolutely horrible job of keeping it on the teak and not 
around.. I'm taking about work that looked like a 6 year old did it . It was 
everywhere: cabinet doors, ceiling, cushions, ports, etc.  3 years later I 
still find and clean orangish stains in the less obvious areas that I had not 
seen in prior cleanings .

I tried several options I found that Bar Tender's Friend is the best.  It has 
some bleach and mild abrasives in it. That's the only stuff that could get the 
galley cabinet doors white again..  

Good luck, 

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA.
Sent from IBM Verse
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Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[William Walker via CnC-List]

That is exactly what happened.  However, my shaft is a tight fit, not slipping easily into coupler, this I am perplexed.   Having said this, I know prior owner and it has been at least 10 years since installed.  I think a periodic removal and inspection of set screws in order.  
Bill Walker
On Jun 30, 2016 6:27 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List  wrote:The guidance I received is that the shaft needs to be a tight fit inside the coupler.The matched prop shaft and coupler set I got back from the prop company wouldnot slide together by hand, needed light taps from a rubber mallet. The companysaid if there was much play and even a slight bit of misalignment causing vibrationthat overtime it would wear down any high point or possibly the set screw.So it may be that the previously tightened and seizing wired set screw is not backingoff, the end is wearing down until it appears to be loose.Michael BrownWindburnC 30-1Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2016 21:17:42 + (UTC)
From: Daniel Sheer 
To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners 
Subject: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes
Message-ID:
     <1554588852.4980586.1467321462816.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Just had my shaft slip out of the coupling as well. Zincs forward of the strut kept it from coming out of the boat. It was "lazy, hazy, crazy days of summer" getting the shaft back up so I could reattach it to the coupling. An hour and a half of "grunting and swearing and beer" before we were on our way again. Had holes in the shaft for the set screws. All on tight. Still came out. I put stop nuts on the set screws, and, since the key was moving as well, two hose clamps to hold the key in place. Also replaced the lock washers on the coupling bolts. We'll see. I'm checking it before each sail.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

The guidance I received is that the shaft needs to be a tight fit inside the 
coupler.
The matched prop shaft and coupler set I got back from the prop company would
not slide together by hand, needed light taps from a rubber mallet. The company
said if there was much play and even a slight bit of misalignment causing 
vibration
that overtime it would wear down any high point or possibly the set screw.

So it may be that the previously tightened and seizing wired set screw is not 
backing
off, the end is wearing down until it appears to be loose.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1



Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2016 21:17:42 + (UTC) 
From: Daniel Sheer  
To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners  
Subject: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes 
Message-ID: 
     <1554588852.4980586.1467321462816.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 
 
Just had my shaft slip out of the coupling as well. Zincs forward of the strut 
kept it from coming out of the boat. It was "lazy, hazy, crazy days of summer" 
getting the shaft back up so I could reattach it to the coupling. An hour and a 
half of "grunting and swearing and beer" before we were on our way again. Had 
holes in the shaft for the set screws. All on tight. Still came out. I put stop 
nuts on the set screws, and, since the key was moving as well, two hose clamps 
to hold the key in place. Also replaced the lock washers on the coupling bolts. 
We'll see. I'm checking it before each sail. 
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco 
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Just had my shaft slip out of the coupling as well. Zincs forward of the strut 
kept it from coming out of the boat. It was "lazy, hazy, crazy days of summer" 
getting the shaft back up so I could reattach it to the coupling. An hour and a 
half of "grunting and swearing and beer" before we were on our way again. Had 
holes in the shaft for the set screws. All on tight. Still came out. I put stop 
nuts on the set screws, and, since the key was moving as well, two hose clamps 
to hold the key in place. Also replaced the lock washers on the coupling bolts. 
We'll see. I'm checking it before each sail.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Window Replacement C-2

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Use 9mm.

On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 10:14 AM, Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:

> Not sure where you are located but Select Plastics in Norwalk CT is the
> "go to" guy in this part of the world.
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> On Jun 29, 2016, at 14:24, johnr via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Good discussions on this site re how to do this.  I believe someone posted
> a site for access to the window material, not the setting and sealing
> material and I though I had saved it, but do not find.
>
> Where did those of you who have replaced windows obtained the window
> material and did you cut and shape it yourself or how did you have it done?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John McLaughlin
> Falcon
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

When I think of shaft set screws, I think of cone tip set screws.  I think
that's what Touche' has.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 1:24 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Four years ago I put a new Universal M3-20B in our club launch, and new
> shaft as well.  Drilled pretty deep holes in the shaft for the set screws,
> tightened them and wired them in place.  After about two months the shaft
> slipped out, with no apparent damage to the shaft.  I think what happened
> was the threads on the end of the screws compressed in the holes allowing
> enough play to release the shaft.  I then put the set screws in a lathe and
> cut the bottom of the threads off, so it was just a solid tip, and tapered
> the end.  It's held since then.
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
>
> On 6/30/2016 2:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I believe you but that's a bit scary.  Shaft installed correctly using
> best practice and it still came out.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> actually there were.  I can't figure out how they got free, but over time
>> I suspect back and forth, forward reverse, wore down the bolts in the
>> detentes.  I have a good picture I could send.
>> Bill Walker
>>
>> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>> --
>> On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>> Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set screws?  Good
>> idea to drill some if not.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks all for replies.  On investigation this morning it seems the
>>> shaft pulled out of the connector to transmission.  The two "keeper" bolts
>>> were still in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose.  The key was in
>>> the bilge, mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny.  The zinc on
>>> shaft above the prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the
>>> boat.
>>> Boat in haul out well so we can make repair today.
>>> A reminder that the zinc is important even in fresh water ?
>>> Bill Walker
>>> CnC 36
>>> Evening Star
>>> Pentwater, Mi
>>>
>>> Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
>>>
>>> -- Original message--
>>> *From: *Frederick G Street via CnC-List
>>> *Date: *Thu, Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AM
>>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>>> *Cc: *Frederick G Street;
>>> *Subject:*Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes
>>>
>>> And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road
>>> before…   :^)
>>>
>>> If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870
>>> series, depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you *MAY* need
>>> to replace the entire pedestal riser as well.  On my 1979 Landfall 38, I
>>> had the older (300 series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and
>>> trying to fit engine control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very
>>> unpleasant task.  I finally bit the bullet and got a completely new
>>> pedestal; with the wider riser tube, it was a much better solution, and the
>>> new pedestal was a better fit for my wheel pilot, as well.
>>>
>>> — Fred
>>>
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>>
>>> On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Bill,
>>> To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by
>>> manually moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at
>>> the pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control
>>> related.  Depending on which control you have, there are several items to
>>> check:
>>> 1.  The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long
>>> brass clevis that looks like a tuning fork.  This is located beneath your
>>> compass which will need to come off to check.It is roughly 4.5” long.
>>> The end of your 33 series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is
>>> connected to the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter.  As cables get
>>> old and hard to move, I’ve seen many times where the threaded end of the
>>> cable breaks off in the clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable.
>>> The solution is a replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat)
>>> as well as a new clevis if the threaded end can’t be extracted.
>>> 2.  The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, you can move
>>> your throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the housing of the
>>> cable is no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the cable won’t
>>> move independently of the cable housing, which means the cable won’t do
>>> anything at the transmission end.Depending on the model of shifter you
>>> have, this can be easy or a bear to replace.  If you have a model 870 or
>>> 816 control 

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

A prop shaft company I dealt with advised me to use steel cup point grub screws
centered in a slight dimple on the shaft.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1


 
Four years ago I put a new Universal M3-20B in our club launch, and new  
shaft as well.  Drilled pretty deep holes in the shaft for the set  
screws, tightened them and wired them in place.  After about two months  
the shaft slipped out, with no apparent damage to the shaft. I think  
what happened was the threads on the end of the screws compressed in the  
holes allowing enough play to release the shaft. I then put the set  
screws in a lathe and cut the bottom of the threads off, so it was just  
a solid tip, and tapered the end.  It's held since then. 
 
Neil Gallagher 
Weatherly, 35-1 
Glen Cove, NY 
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[Paul Baker via CnC-List]

I get round this by having the shaft firmly rusted into the coupling. Not ideal 
when it comes to removing it of course.
Cheers,
Paul. 

27mk2
Sidney BC. 

Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2016 13:06:47 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: capt...@gmail.com

I believe you but that's a bit scary.  Shaft installed correctly using best 
practice and it still came out.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
 wrote:
actually there were.  I can't figure out how they got free, but over time I 
suspect back and forth, forward reverse, wore down the bolts in the detentes.  
I have a good picture I could send. 

Bill Walker 
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:


Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set screws?  Good idea 
to drill some if not.

Dennis C.


On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com  
wrote:








Thanks all for replies.  On investigation this morning it seems the shaft 
pulled out of the connector to transmission.  The two "keeper" bolts were still 
in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose.  The key was in the bilge, 
mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny.  The zinc on shaft above the 
prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the boat.  Boat in haul 
out well so we can make repair today.  A reminder that the zinc is important 
even in fresh water Bill WalkerCnC 36Evening StarPentwater, Mi
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Date: Thu, 
Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Frederick G 
Street;Subject:Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes
And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road before…  
 :^)
If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870 series, 
depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you MAY need to replace the 
entire pedestal riser as well.  On my 1979 Landfall 38, I had the older (300 
series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and trying to fit engine 
control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very unpleasant task.  I 
finally bit the bullet and got a completely new pedestal; with the wider riser 
tube, it was a much better solution, and the new pedestal was a better fit for 
my wheel pilot, as well.
— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Bill,To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually 
moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the 
pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related.  
Depending on which control you have, there are several items to check:1.  
The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long brass clevis that 
looks like a tuning fork.  This is located beneath your compass which will need 
to come off to check.It is roughly 4.5” long.  The end of your 33 series 
cable threads into the end of the clevis which is connected to the shift lever 
via a clevis pin and cotter.  As cables get old and hard to move, I’ve seen 
many times where the threaded end of the cable breaks off in the clevis, 
rendering the shift mechanism unusable.  The solution is a replacement cable 
(not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat) as well as a new clevis if the threaded 
end can’t be extracted.2.  The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, 
you can move your throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the 
housing of the cable is no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the 
cable won’t move independently of the cable housing, which means the cable 
won’t do anything at the transmission end.Depending on the model of shifter 
you have, this can be easy or a bear to replace.  If you have a model 870 or 
816 control (shift and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below the 
compass), there will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the wheel 
shaft on the aft side of the pedestal.  Inside the pedestal at that point is a 
cable clamp, either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the age of the 
boat.  The plastic ones can break over time, especially if the cable is as old 
as the boat and is stiff to operate.  Instructions on replacing the cable clamp 
(along with the cables) can be found 
here:http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDFThe
 process is not intuitive so it is worth reading the instructions carefully 
before tearing into the project. If the engine control levers are set on port 
and starboard just aft of the pedestal between the pedestal column and the 
wheel and the control cables run inside their own 1” stainless steel tubes that 
sit 

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[William Walker via CnC-List]

hmm.  wish had seen this before finished repair. 
Bill Walker

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Neil Gallagher via CnC-List  
wrote:

Four years ago I put a new Universal M3-20B in our club launch, and new shaft 
as well.  Drilled pretty deep holes in the shaft for the set screws, tightened 
them and wired them in place.  After about two months the shaft slipped out, 
with no apparent damage to the shaft.  I think what happened was the threads on 
the end of the screws compressed in the holes allowing enough play to release 
the shaft.  I then put the set screws in a lathe and cut the bottom of the 
threads off, so it was just a solid tip, and tapered the end.  It's held since 
then.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 6/30/2016 2:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

I believe you but that's a bit scary.  Shaft installed correctly using best 
practice and it still came out.

Dennis C.


On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
 wrote:

actually there were.  I can't figure out how they got free, but over time I 
suspect back and forth, forward reverse, wore down the bolts in the detentes.  
I have a good picture I could send. 
Bill Walker 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set screws?  Good idea 
to drill some if not.

Dennis C.


On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com  
wrote:

Thanks all for replies.  On investigation this morning it seems the shaft 
pulled out of the connector to transmission.  The two "keeper" bolts were still 
in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose.  The key was in the bilge, 
mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny.  The zinc on shaft above the 
prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the boat.  

Boat in haul out well so we can make repair today.  

A reminder that the zinc is important even in fresh water ?

Bill Walker

CnC 36

Evening Star

Pentwater, Mi


Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet


-- Original message--

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 

Date: Thu, Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Cc: Frederick G Street;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes


And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road before…  
 :^) 


If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870 series, 
depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you MAY need to replace the 
entire pedestal riser as well.  On my 1979 Landfall 38, I had the older (300 
series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and trying to fit engine 
control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very unpleasant task.  I 
finally bit the bullet and got a completely new pedestal; with the wider riser 
tube, it was a much better solution, and the new pedestal was a better fit for 
my wheel pilot, as well.


— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Bill,

To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually 
moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the 
pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related.  
Depending on which control you have, there are several items to check:

1.  The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long brass 
clevis that looks like a tuning fork.  This is located beneath your compass 
which will need to come off to check.    It is roughly 4.5” long.  The end of 
your 33 series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is connected to 
the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter.  As cables get old and hard to 
move, I’ve seen many times where the threaded end of the cable breaks off in 
the clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable.  The solution is a 
replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat) as well as a new 
clevis if the threaded end can’t be extracted.

2.  The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, you can move your 
throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the housing of the cable is 
no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the cable won’t move 
independently of the cable housing, which means the cable won’t do anything at 
the transmission end.    Depending on the model of shifter you have, this can 
be easy or a bear to replace.  If you have a model 870 or 816 control (shift 
and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below the compass), there 
will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the wheel shaft on the aft 
side of the pedestal.  Inside the pedestal at that point is a cable clamp, 
either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the age of the boat.  The 
plastic ones can break over time, especially if 

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[William Walker via CnC-List]

all repaired.  ends of bolts were worn down, I suspect over years, little by 
little to shape of shaft.  shaft still smooth.  cleaned up the detentes with 
drill, cleaned key way with file and installed new key, Snug fit, and new 
keeper bolts.  all well that ends well.  good for another xx years I hope.  
Bill Walker

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

I believe you but that's a bit scary.  Shaft installed correctly using best 
practice and it still came out.

Dennis C.


On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
 wrote:

actually there were.  I can't figure out how they got free, but over time I 
suspect back and forth, forward reverse, wore down the bolts in the detentes.  
I have a good picture I could send. 
Bill Walker 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set screws?  Good idea 
to drill some if not.

Dennis C.


On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com  
wrote:

Thanks all for replies.  On investigation this morning it seems the shaft 
pulled out of the connector to transmission.  The two "keeper" bolts were still 
in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose.  The key was in the bilge, 
mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny.  The zinc on shaft above the 
prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the boat.  

Boat in haul out well so we can make repair today.  

A reminder that the zinc is important even in fresh water 

Bill Walker

CnC 36

Evening Star

Pentwater, Mi


Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet


-- Original message--

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 

Date: Thu, Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Cc: Frederick G Street;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes


And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road before…  
 :^)


If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870 series, 
depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you MAY need to replace the 
entire pedestal riser as well.  On my 1979 Landfall 38, I had the older (300 
series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and trying to fit engine 
control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very unpleasant task.  I 
finally bit the bullet and got a completely new pedestal; with the wider riser 
tube, it was a much better solution, and the new pedestal was a better fit for 
my wheel pilot, as well.


— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Bill,

To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually 
moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the 
pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related.  
Depending on which control you have, there are several items to check:

1.  The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long brass 
clevis that looks like a tuning fork.  This is located beneath your compass 
which will need to come off to check.    It is roughly 4.5” long.  The end of 
your 33 series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is connected to 
the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter.  As cables get old and hard to 
move, I’ve seen many times where the threaded end of the cable breaks off in 
the clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable.  The solution is a 
replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat) as well as a new 
clevis if the threaded end can’t be extracted.

2.  The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, you can move your 
throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the housing of the cable is 
no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the cable won’t move 
independently of the cable housing, which means the cable won’t do anything at 
the transmission end.    Depending on the model of shifter you have, this can 
be easy or a bear to replace.  If you have a model 870 or 816 control (shift 
and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below the compass), there 
will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the wheel shaft on the aft 
side of the pedestal.  Inside the pedestal at that point is a cable clamp, 
either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the age of the boat.  The 
plastic ones can break over time, especially if the cable is as old as the boat 
and is stiff to operate.  Instructions on replacing the cable clamp (along with 
the cables) can be found 
here:http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF

The process is not intuitive so it is worth reading the instructions carefully 
before tearing into the project.

 

If the engine control levers are set on port and starboard just 

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Four years ago I put a new Universal M3-20B in our club launch, and new 
shaft as well.  Drilled pretty deep holes in the shaft for the set 
screws, tightened them and wired them in place.  After about two months 
the shaft slipped out, with no apparent damage to the shaft. I think 
what happened was the threads on the end of the screws compressed in the 
holes allowing enough play to release the shaft. I then put the set 
screws in a lathe and cut the bottom of the threads off, so it was just 
a solid tip, and tapered the end.  It's held since then.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 6/30/2016 2:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I believe you but that's a bit scary.  Shaft installed correctly using 
best practice and it still came out.


Dennis C.

On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
> wrote:


actually there were.  I can't figure out how they got free, but
over time I suspect back and forth, forward reverse, wore down the
bolts in the detentes.  I have a good picture I could send.
Bill Walker

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List
> wrote:
Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set
screws?  Good idea to drill some if not.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com
 > wrote:

Thanks all for replies.  On investigation this morning it
seems the shaft pulled out of the connector to transmission. 
The two "keeper" bolts were still in place and wired so as to

not vibrate loose.  The key was in the bilge, mangled, under
the connection of shaft and tranny.  The zinc on shaft above
the prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the
boat.
Boat in haul out well so we can make repair today.
A reminder that the zinc is important even in fresh water ?
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from my LG G Pad F^(TM) 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet

-- Original message--
*From: *Frederick G Street via CnC-List
*Date: *Thu, Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AM
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;
*Cc: *Frederick G Street;
*Subject:*Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

And to amplify a bit on Chuck's answer, since I've been down
this road before...   :^)

If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816
or 870 series, depending on the age and size of your pedestal,
you /MAY/ need to replace the entire pedestal riser as well.
On my 1979 Landfall 38, I had the older (300 series?) pedestal
with the narrower riser tube; and trying to fit engine control
cables down inside that skinny tube was a very unpleasant
task.  I finally bit the bullet and got a completely new
pedestal; with the wider riser tube, it was a much better
solution, and the new pedestal was a better fit for my wheel
pilot, as well.

--- Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
> wrote:

Bill,
To echo Edd's suggestion, if your engine transmission
engages by manually moving the lever on the gearbox but
not using the shift control at the pedestal, I too believe
the problem to be cable or engine control related. 
Depending on which control you have, there are several

items to check:
1.The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a
long brass clevis that looks like a tuning fork.  This is
located beneath your compass which will need to come off
to check.   It is roughly 4.5" long.  The end of your 33
series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is
connected to the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter. 
As cables get old and hard to move, I've seen many times

where the threaded end of the cable breaks off in the
clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable.  The
solution is a replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+
year old boat) as well as a new clevis if the threaded end
can't be extracted.
2.The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, you can
move your throttle and shift levers up and down, but
because the housing of the cable is no longer being 

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I believe you but that's a bit scary.  Shaft installed correctly using best
practice and it still came out.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> actually there were.  I can't figure out how they got free, but over time
> I suspect back and forth, forward reverse, wore down the bolts in the
> detentes.  I have a good picture I could send.
> Bill Walker
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> --
> On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set screws?  Good
> idea to drill some if not.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com  > wrote:
>
>> Thanks all for replies.  On investigation this morning it seems the shaft
>> pulled out of the connector to transmission.  The two "keeper" bolts were
>> still in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose.  The key was in the
>> bilge, mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny.  The zinc on
>> shaft above the prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the
>> boat.
>> Boat in haul out well so we can make repair today.
>> A reminder that the zinc is important even in fresh water 
>> Bill Walker
>> CnC 36
>> Evening Star
>> Pentwater, Mi
>>
>> Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
>>
>> -- Original message--
>> *From: *Frederick G Street via CnC-List
>> *Date: *Thu, Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AM
>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>> *Cc: *Frederick G Street;
>> *Subject:*Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes
>>
>> And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road
>> before…   :^)
>>
>> If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870
>> series, depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you *MAY* need
>> to replace the entire pedestal riser as well.  On my 1979 Landfall 38, I
>> had the older (300 series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and
>> trying to fit engine control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very
>> unpleasant task.  I finally bit the bullet and got a completely new
>> pedestal; with the wider riser tube, it was a much better solution, and the
>> new pedestal was a better fit for my wheel pilot, as well.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>
>> On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Bill,
>> To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually
>> moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the
>> pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related.
>> Depending on which control you have, there are several items to check:
>> 1.  The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long
>> brass clevis that looks like a tuning fork.  This is located beneath your
>> compass which will need to come off to check.It is roughly 4.5” long.
>> The end of your 33 series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is
>> connected to the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter.  As cables get
>> old and hard to move, I’ve seen many times where the threaded end of the
>> cable breaks off in the clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable.
>> The solution is a replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat)
>> as well as a new clevis if the threaded end can’t be extracted.
>> 2.  The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, you can move
>> your throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the housing of the
>> cable is no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the cable won’t
>> move independently of the cable housing, which means the cable won’t do
>> anything at the transmission end.Depending on the model of shifter you
>> have, this can be easy or a bear to replace.  If you have a model 870 or
>> 816 control (shift and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below
>> the compass), there will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the
>> wheel shaft on the aft side of the pedestal.  Inside the pedestal at that
>> point is a cable clamp, either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the
>> age of the boat.  The plastic ones can break over time, especially if the
>> cable is as old as the boat and is stiff to operate.  Instructions on
>> replacing the cable clamp (along with the cables) can be found here:
>> http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF
>> The process is not intuitive so it is worth reading the instructions
>> carefully before tearing into the project.
>>
>> If the engine control levers are set on port and starboard just aft of
>> the pedestal between the pedestal column and the wheel and the control
>> cables run inside their own 1” stainless steel tubes that sit behind the
>> pedestal base, you have either a 727 or 747 control.If this 

Re: Stus-List How to remove teak oil stains?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Lorne,

I've had the same issue. PO did not color between the lines with the Teak
Oil. I tried 'Goof Off' on our molded headliner, but it did not work at
all. I used acetone with some light rubbing and it came off. I don't love
using acetone if I don't need to, but this is what worked for me. Others
may have other recommendations.

KD
30-2

On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 7:53 AM Lorne Serpa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The PO has teak oil all over the interior and roof,  etc.   What do you
> use to get it off?
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[William Walker via CnC-List]

actually there were.  I can't figure out how they got free, but over time I 
suspect back and forth, forward reverse, wore down the bolts in the detentes.  
I have a good picture I could send. 
Bill Walker 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set screws?  Good idea 
to drill some if not.

Dennis C.


On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com  
wrote:

Thanks all for replies.  On investigation this morning it seems the shaft 
pulled out of the connector to transmission.  The two "keeper" bolts were still 
in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose.  The key was in the bilge, 
mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny.  The zinc on shaft above the 
prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the boat.  

Boat in haul out well so we can make repair today.  

A reminder that the zinc is important even in fresh water 

Bill Walker

CnC 36

Evening Star

Pentwater, Mi


Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet


-- Original message--

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 

Date: Thu, Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Cc: Frederick G Street;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes


And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road before…  
 :^)


If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870 series, 
depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you MAY need to replace the 
entire pedestal riser as well.  On my 1979 Landfall 38, I had the older (300 
series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and trying to fit engine 
control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very unpleasant task.  I 
finally bit the bullet and got a completely new pedestal; with the wider riser 
tube, it was a much better solution, and the new pedestal was a better fit for 
my wheel pilot, as well.


— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Bill,

To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually 
moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the 
pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related.  
Depending on which control you have, there are several items to check:

1.  The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long brass 
clevis that looks like a tuning fork.  This is located beneath your compass 
which will need to come off to check.    It is roughly 4.5” long.  The end of 
your 33 series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is connected to 
the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter.  As cables get old and hard to 
move, I’ve seen many times where the threaded end of the cable breaks off in 
the clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable.  The solution is a 
replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat) as well as a new 
clevis if the threaded end can’t be extracted.

2.  The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, you can move your 
throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the housing of the cable is 
no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the cable won’t move 
independently of the cable housing, which means the cable won’t do anything at 
the transmission end.    Depending on the model of shifter you have, this can 
be easy or a bear to replace.  If you have a model 870 or 816 control (shift 
and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below the compass), there 
will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the wheel shaft on the aft 
side of the pedestal.  Inside the pedestal at that point is a cable clamp, 
either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the age of the boat.  The 
plastic ones can break over time, especially if the cable is as old as the boat 
and is stiff to operate.  Instructions on replacing the cable clamp (along with 
the cables) can be found 
here:http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF

The process is not intuitive so it is worth reading the instructions carefully 
before tearing into the project.

 

If the engine control levers are set on port and starboard just aft of the 
pedestal between the pedestal column and the wheel and the control cables run 
inside their own 1” stainless steel tubes that sit behind the pedestal base, 
you have either a 727 or 747 control.    If this is your set up there are going 
to be challenges with replacing a cable clamp.  I would typically recommend 
calling Edson and seeing if they still have any cable holders for a model 727 
engine control for a series 33 shift cable and also as them to send you the 
engineering bulletin that shows the breakdown of the controller (which was 
discontinued in the late 1980’s).   They will likely recommend selling you 
either the 

Re: Stus-List Window Replacement C-2

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

What thickness plexiglass did you use? The Plexiglas G spec. sheet shows 6mm 
(.236") then 9mm (.354") as the next step up. I'm getting ready to do this and 
am wondering "How thick?"

Cheers, Al


> On Jun 30, 2016, at 8:29 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Make sure you get cast acrylic, not extruded. The guy who cut my last windows 
> for me cheaped out and I think used extruded. Now I'm going to have to change 
> them out again in a year or two. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 29 June 2016 at 12:10, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> I replaced the windows on my 29-2.  Had the tinted acrylic laser cut and 
>> beveled.   Much discussion of glue but the trick I used was running a jib 
>> sheet from the port to starboard through the cars and onto each winch 
>> pressing a 2x4 across the windows and tightening with winch.  Jerry
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jun 29, 2016, at 2:24 PM, johnr via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Good discussions on this site re how to do this.  I believe someone posted 
>>> a site for access to the window material, not the setting and sealing 
>>> material and I though I had saved it, but do not find.
>>> 
>>> Where did those of you who have replaced windows obtained the window 
>>> material and did you cut and shape it yourself or how did you have it done?
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> John McLaughlin
>>> Falcon
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set screws?  Good
idea to drill some if not.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com 
wrote:

> Thanks all for replies.  On investigation this morning it seems the shaft
> pulled out of the connector to transmission.  The two "keeper" bolts were
> still in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose.  The key was in the
> bilge, mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny.  The zinc on
> shaft above the prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the
> boat.
> Boat in haul out well so we can make repair today.
> A reminder that the zinc is important even in fresh water 
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Evening Star
> Pentwater, Mi
>
> Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
>
> -- Original message--
> *From: *Frederick G Street via CnC-List
> *Date: *Thu, Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AM
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
> *Cc: *Frederick G Street;
> *Subject:*Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes
>
> And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road
> before…   :^)
>
> If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870
> series, depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you *MAY* need to
> replace the entire pedestal riser as well.  On my 1979 Landfall 38, I had
> the older (300 series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and trying
> to fit engine control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very
> unpleasant task.  I finally bit the bullet and got a completely new
> pedestal; with the wider riser tube, it was a much better solution, and the
> new pedestal was a better fit for my wheel pilot, as well.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Bill,
> To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually
> moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the
> pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related.
> Depending on which control you have, there are several items to check:
> 1.  The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long
> brass clevis that looks like a tuning fork.  This is located beneath your
> compass which will need to come off to check.It is roughly 4.5” long.
> The end of your 33 series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is
> connected to the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter.  As cables get
> old and hard to move, I’ve seen many times where the threaded end of the
> cable breaks off in the clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable.
> The solution is a replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat)
> as well as a new clevis if the threaded end can’t be extracted.
> 2.  The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, you can move your
> throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the housing of the cable
> is no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the cable won’t move
> independently of the cable housing, which means the cable won’t do anything
> at the transmission end.Depending on the model of shifter you have,
> this can be easy or a bear to replace.  If you have a model 870 or 816
> control (shift and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below the
> compass), there will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the
> wheel shaft on the aft side of the pedestal.  Inside the pedestal at that
> point is a cable clamp, either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the
> age of the boat.  The plastic ones can break over time, especially if the
> cable is as old as the boat and is stiff to operate.  Instructions on
> replacing the cable clamp (along with the cables) can be found here:
> http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF
> The process is not intuitive so it is worth reading the instructions
> carefully before tearing into the project.
>
> If the engine control levers are set on port and starboard just aft of the
> pedestal between the pedestal column and the wheel and the control cables
> run inside their own 1” stainless steel tubes that sit behind the pedestal
> base, you have either a 727 or 747 control.If this is your set up there
> are going to be challenges with replacing a cable clamp.  I would typically
> recommend calling Edson and seeing if they still have any cable holders for
> a model 727 engine control for a series 33 shift cable and also as them to
> send you the engineering bulletin that shows the breakdown of the
> controller (which was discontinued in the late 1980’s).   They will likely
> recommend selling you either the 870 or 816 control (depending whether your
> cable is pushed or pulled to engage the engine in forward).  If you can
> bite the bullet and take that approach, you’ll probably be a bit happier in
> the long run since the 727 control 

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[wwadjourn]

Thanks all for replies.  On investigation this morning it seems the shaft 
pulled out of the connector to transmission.  The two "keeper" bolts were still 
in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose.  The key was in the bilge, 
mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny.  The zinc on shaft above the 
prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the boat.  Boat in haul 
out well so we can make repair today.  A reminder that the zinc is important 
even in fresh water Bill WalkerCnC 36Evening StarPentwater, Mi
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Date: Thu, 
Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Frederick G 
Street;Subject:Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes
And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road before…  
 :^)
If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870 series, 
depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you MAY need to replace the 
entire pedestal riser as well.  On my 1979 Landfall 38, I had the older (300 
series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and trying to fit engine 
control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very unpleasant task.  I 
finally bit the bullet and got a completely new pedestal; with the wider riser 
tube, it was a much better solution, and the new pedestal was a better fit for 
my wheel pilot, as well.
— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Bill,To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually 
moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the 
pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related.  
Depending on which control you have, there are several items to check:1.  
The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long brass clevis that 
looks like a tuning fork.  This is located beneath your compass which will need 
to come off to check.    It is roughly 4.5” long.  The end of your 33 series 
cable threads into the end of the clevis which is connected to the shift lever 
via a clevis pin and cotter.  As cables get old and hard to move, I’ve seen 
many times where the threaded end of the cable breaks off in the clevis, 
rendering the shift mechanism unusable.  The solution is a replacement cable 
(not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat) as well as a new clevis if the threaded 
end can’t be extracted.2.  The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, 
you can move your throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the 
housing of the cable is no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the 
cable won’t move independently of the cable housing, which means the cable 
won’t do anything at the transmission end.    Depending on the model of shifter 
you have, this can be easy or a bear to replace.  If you have a model 870 or 
816 control (shift and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below the 
compass), there will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the wheel 
shaft on the aft side of the pedestal.  Inside the pedestal at that point is a 
cable clamp, either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the age of the 
boat.  The plastic ones can break over time, especially if the cable is as old 
as the boat and is stiff to operate.  Instructions on replacing the cable clamp 
(along with the cables) can be found 
here:http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDFThe
 process is not intuitive so it is worth reading the instructions carefully 
before tearing into the project. If the engine control levers are set on port 
and starboard just aft of the pedestal between the pedestal column and the 
wheel and the control cables run inside their own 1” stainless steel tubes that 
sit behind the pedestal base, you have either a 727 or 747 control.    If this 
is your set up there are going to be challenges with replacing a cable clamp.  
I would typically recommend calling Edson and seeing if they still have any 
cable holders for a model 727 engine control for a series 33 shift cable and 
also as them to send you the engineering bulletin that shows the breakdown of 
the controller (which was discontinued in the late 1980’s).   They will likely 
recommend selling you either the 870 or 816 control (depending whether your 
cable is pushed or pulled to engage the engine in forward).  If you can bite 
the bullet and take that approach, you’ll probably be a bit happier in the long 
run since the 727 control is a PITA to work on.  If you’re married to the 
existing control, you’ll need to remove the compass, remove the pedestal top 
plate that covers the control’s internal cable attachments and then try to 
slide the cable up the tube to check that the cable clamp is still intact.  
Again, if Edson no longer has any more of the clamps, 

Re: Stus-List Window Replacement C-2

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Not sure where you are located but Select Plastics in Norwalk CT is the "go to" 
guy in this part of the world. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 29, 2016, at 14:24, johnr via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Good discussions on this site re how to do this.  I believe someone posted a 
> site for access to the window material, not the setting and sealing material 
> and I though I had saved it, but do not find.
> 
> Where did those of you who have replaced windows obtained the window material 
> and did you cut and shape it yourself or how did you have it done?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John McLaughlin
> Falcon
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Window Replacement C-2

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Jim is right about using cast acrylic, not extruded.  Cast is more
expensive, but also stronger.  I buy acrylic locally.  Attach the old
window to the acrylic with double sided tape.  Cut off the excess with a
saber saw.  Don't let the blade get hot, or it will melt the acrylic.  Then
use a router with a pattern bit to cut the new window.  Finally use a
forty-five degree chamfer bit to cut away part of the inside edge of the
window.  The chamfer makes room for any excess adhesive.  Very important to
make sure there are no nicks along the edge of the window, or it will
eventually crack there.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 8:29 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Make sure you get cast acrylic, not extruded. The guy who cut my last
> windows for me cheaped out and I think used extruded. Now I'm going to have
> to change them out again in a year or two.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 29 June 2016 at 12:10, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I replaced the windows on my 29-2.  Had the tinted acrylic laser cut and
>> beveled.   Much discussion of glue but the trick I used was running a jib
>> sheet from the port to starboard through the cars and onto each winch
>> pressing a 2x4 across the windows and tightening with winch.  Jerry
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jun 29, 2016, at 2:24 PM, johnr via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Good discussions on this site re how to do this.  I believe someone
>> posted a site for access to the window material, not the setting and
>> sealing material and I though I had saved it, but do not find.
>>
>> Where did those of you who have replaced windows obtained the window
>> material and did you cut and shape it yourself or how did you have it done?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> John McLaughlin
>> Falcon
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Window Replacement C-2

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Make sure you get cast acrylic, not extruded. The guy who cut my last
windows for me cheaped out and I think used extruded. Now I'm going to have
to change them out again in a year or two.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 29 June 2016 at 12:10, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I replaced the windows on my 29-2.  Had the tinted acrylic laser cut and
> beveled.   Much discussion of glue but the trick I used was running a jib
> sheet from the port to starboard through the cars and onto each winch
> pressing a 2x4 across the windows and tightening with winch.  Jerry
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 29, 2016, at 2:24 PM, johnr via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Good discussions on this site re how to do this.  I believe someone posted
> a site for access to the window material, not the setting and sealing
> material and I though I had saved it, but do not find.
>
> Where did those of you who have replaced windows obtained the window
> material and did you cut and shape it yourself or how did you have it done?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John McLaughlin
> Falcon
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List How to remove teak oil stains?

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

The PO has teak oil all over the interior and roof,  etc.   What do you use
to get it off?
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Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

+1 on building your own!  I do so on my Viking 33 and I was really happy 
with the result.  I even had to scribe them to the rounded splash guard 
and they came out great!



Danny


On 6/20/2016 6:22 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List wrote:


If you have a few wood working tools handy, they are easy to build 
yourself. I built my handrails on my 30-1 out of teak. All you need is 
a hole-saw, jig saw and a router to round the edges. You would build 
two at a time. I have a matching set down below.



This is the best picture I could find:


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDdm5rN0lZNTdqOU0/view?usp=sharing



IMG_2338.JPG 


drive.google.com

Cheers,

Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



*From:* CnC-List  on behalf of RANDY 
via CnC-List 

*Sent:* Sunday, June 19, 2016 10:39 PM
*To:* cnc-list
*Cc:* RANDY
*Subject:* Stus-List Replacement Handrails
Listers-

Can anyone recommend a source for replacement exterior (cabin top) 
handrails for a 30-1?  I would prefer teak, but would be willing to 
consider an estimate on stainless steel as well.  Thanks in advance.


Best Regards,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


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Re: Stus-List Leading Spinnaker Sheets on a 30-1

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

No expert, but…. I put rings on the side of the mast – about six inches above 
the deck – for the reaching strut, but don’t have one and never have used one. 
The Phrf rules don’t allow you to attach them to anywhere but the mast, by the 
way. I have not found a need for a strut, simply because we have rather short 
races. My spinnaker is large and round and high-shouldered, so it doesn’t reach 
all that well, but with the twings I can control where the sheet and guy rest 
against the stanchions. I believe the rules on reaching struts is they are not 
supposed to go outside the width of the boat. That’s why I don’t bother. If I 
did more long races I would want to explore a strut and put the rings a little 
higher.

 

As far as the turning blocks… mine are ratchet blocks - on the rail just in 
front of the attachment point of the pulpit. I put a small cam cleat on the 
flat part of the cockpit surround nearby, so we could have the spinnaker sheets 
held tightly against the side of the boat until we were ready to use them. I 
have a winches at the original location and others about a foot forward and use 
the forward ones for the genoa and the aft for the chute. Often we pull the 
sheets off of these winches and use the ones on top of the cabin. I upgraded 
those to Anderson 16’s.

 

I have twings which are attached about two feet ahead of the gates on each 
side. These have an opening block at the end of a line about six feet long 
(cute little snatch blocks from West) and a small turning block at the rail. 
The line leads back to cleats right behind the gates. I know some others have 
the cleat further forward, but I wanted someone from the cockpit to be able to 
pull them in or let them out while gybing.

 

I have a similar downhaul setup as you, except I run the line through fairleads 
on the sides of the dorade boxes and up to the cabin top – to a clutch.  It is 
next to the topping lift clutch, so a cockpit person can control the ups and 
downs of the pole.

 

Gary

#593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2016 1:35 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: RANDY 
Subject: Stus-List Leading Spinnaker Sheets on a 30-1

 

30-1 Owners and Experts-

 

Would you mind telling me how you lead spinnaker sheets on a 30-1?  
Specifically, where do you position your turning blocks, and where do you 
attach the inboard end of your reaching strut?

 

I'm getting ready to race in the spinnaker division of my club, so I'm trying 
to nail down my spinnaker rigging plans.  I've got snatch blocks to shackle to 
the rail as turning blocks for the spinnaker sheets, but don't know exactly 
where to position them fore and aft.  I assume aft of the aft lifeline gate 
brace, which would seem to necessitate a reaching strut for wind angles less 
than say 135 degrees, in order for the guy to lead fairly from the pole jaws 
around the beam / stanchions / etc. to the turning block.

 

That's fine, I have a reaching strut, but I don't know exactly how to rig it.  
Where does the inboard end attach?  Toe rail?  Same mast ring as the spin pole? 
 Elsewhere?  And am I correct to assume the inboard (jaw) end of the reaching 
strut should face jaw pin up?  That way, on the outboard end, the guard keeping 
the guy on the sheave is up, not down.  My reaching strut is of such a length 
that when I attach it to the mast ring, it doesn't seem long enough to push the 
guy clear of the beam.  I also worry about the height of it that way. It won't 
attach to the mast collar, and I don't want to move he turning blocks forward 
to eliminate the need for it.

 

Also how do you lead your spin sheets after the turning blocks?  Through 
ratchet blocks?  To winches?  Which ones?  And do you use twings?  I fashioned 
some makeshift twings using extra mast collar blocks (which may be too heavy 
for twing usage) with lines crudely running through the stanchion bases near 
the chainplates and cleating on the dorade boxes.  The twings may not be 
strictly necessary because I have a poe down line running through a snatch 
block shackled to a padeye on the foredeck then through fairleads to a cam 
cleat on the side of the cabin top.

 

Thanks in Advance,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

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Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road before…  
 :^)

If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870 series, 
depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you MAY need to replace the 
entire pedestal riser as well.  On my 1979 Landfall 38, I had the older (300 
series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and trying to fit engine 
control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very unpleasant task.  I 
finally bit the bullet and got a completely new pedestal; with the wider riser 
tube, it was a much better solution, and the new pedestal was a better fit for 
my wheel pilot, as well.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually 
> moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the 
> pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related.  
> Depending on which control you have, there are several items to check:
> 1.  The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long brass 
> clevis that looks like a tuning fork.  This is located beneath your compass 
> which will need to come off to check.It is roughly 4.5” long.  The end of 
> your 33 series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is connected to 
> the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter.  As cables get old and hard to 
> move, I’ve seen many times where the threaded end of the cable breaks off in 
> the clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable.  The solution is a 
> replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat) as well as a new 
> clevis if the threaded end can’t be extracted.
> 2.  The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, you can move your 
> throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the housing of the cable 
> is no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the cable won’t move 
> independently of the cable housing, which means the cable won’t do anything 
> at the transmission end.Depending on the model of shifter you have, this 
> can be easy or a bear to replace.  If you have a model 870 or 816 control 
> (shift and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below the compass), 
> there will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the wheel shaft on 
> the aft side of the pedestal.  Inside the pedestal at that point is a cable 
> clamp, either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the age of the boat.  
> The plastic ones can break over time, especially if the cable is as old as 
> the boat and is stiff to operate.  Instructions on replacing the cable clamp 
> (along with the cables) can be found 
> here:http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF
>  
> 
> The process is not intuitive so it is worth reading the instructions 
> carefully before tearing into the project.
>  
> If the engine control levers are set on port and starboard just aft of the 
> pedestal between the pedestal column and the wheel and the control cables run 
> inside their own 1” stainless steel tubes that sit behind the pedestal base, 
> you have either a 727 or 747 control.If this is your set up there are 
> going to be challenges with replacing a cable clamp.  I would typically 
> recommend calling Edson and seeing if they still have any cable holders for a 
> model 727 engine control for a series 33 shift cable and also as them to send 
> you the engineering bulletin that shows the breakdown of the controller 
> (which was discontinued in the late 1980’s).   They will likely recommend 
> selling you either the 870 or 816 control (depending whether your cable is 
> pushed or pulled to engage the engine in forward).  If you can bite the 
> bullet and take that approach, you’ll probably be a bit happier in the long 
> run since the 727 control is a PITA to work on.  If you’re married to the 
> existing control, you’ll need to remove the compass, remove the pedestal top 
> plate that covers the control’s internal cable attachments and then try to 
> slide the cable up the tube to check that the cable clamp is still intact.  
> Again, if Edson no longer has any more of the clamps, you may need to 
> fabricate your own from sheet metal stock…
> Good luck with this project and you can usually get someone on the phone at 
> Edson to walk you through some of it.  Bring your phone to the boat with you 
> and take pictures which you can send to their tech support staff as they help 
> you.
>  
> Best,
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA

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Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Bill,

To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually 
moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the 
pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related.  
Depending on which control you have, there are several items to check:

1.  The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long brass 
clevis that looks like a tuning fork.  This is located beneath your compass 
which will need to come off to check.It is roughly 4.5” long.  The end of 
your 33 series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is connected to 
the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter.  As cables get old and hard to 
move, I’ve seen many times where the threaded end of the cable breaks off in 
the clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable.  The solution is a 
replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat) as well as a new 
clevis if the threaded end can’t be extracted.

2.  The cable clamp has broken.  When this happens, you can move your 
throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the housing of the cable is 
no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the cable won’t move 
independently of the cable housing, which means the cable won’t do anything at 
the transmission end.Depending on the model of shifter you have, this can 
be easy or a bear to replace.  If you have a model 870 or 816 control (shift 
and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below the compass), there 
will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the wheel shaft on the aft 
side of the pedestal.  Inside the pedestal at that point is a cable clamp, 
either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the age of the boat.  The 
plastic ones can break over time, especially if the cable is as old as the boat 
and is stiff to operate.  Instructions on replacing the cable clamp (along with 
the cables) can be found here: 
http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF

The process is not intuitive so it is worth reading the instructions carefully 
before tearing into the project.

 

If the engine control levers are set on port and starboard just aft of the 
pedestal between the pedestal column and the wheel and the control cables run 
inside their own 1” stainless steel tubes that sit behind the pedestal base, 
you have either a 727 or 747 control.If this is your set up there are going 
to be challenges with replacing a cable clamp.  I would typically recommend 
calling Edson and seeing if they still have any cable holders for a model 727 
engine control for a series 33 shift cable and also as them to send you the 
engineering bulletin that shows the breakdown of the controller (which was 
discontinued in the late 1980’s).   They will likely recommend selling you 
either the 870 or 816 control (depending whether your cable is pushed or pulled 
to engage the engine in forward).  If you can bite the bullet and take that 
approach, you’ll probably be a bit happier in the long run since the 727 
control is a PITA to work on.  If you’re married to the existing control, 
you’ll need to remove the compass, remove the pedestal top plate that covers 
the control’s internal cable attachments and then try to slide the cable up the 
tube to check that the cable clamp is still intact.  Again, if Edson no longer 
has any more of the clamps, you may need to fabricate your own from sheet metal 
stock…

Good luck with this project and you can usually get someone on the phone at 
Edson to walk you through some of it.  Bring your phone to the boat with you 
and take pictures which you can send to their tech support staff as they help 
you.

 

Best,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2016 7:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

 

Bill,

 

If it goes into gear by hand, I would think it's a cable issue. Might just need 
some tightening. 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

---

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

NCC-1701-B

C 37+ | City Island, NY

www.StarshipSailing.com  

---

914.332.4400  | Office

914.774.9767  | Mobile

---

Sent via iPhone 6

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:22 AM, wwadjo...@aol.com   via 
CnC-List  > wrote:

Good Morning,

I have yanmar 3gm30 with Kanzaki Birth KH18 gearbox. Two blade Max Prop.

Saturday after race when started engine and placed in gear no forward or 
reverse.  Went below and had someone shift neutral, forward, neutral, reverse.  
I could see prop shaft turning.  Buttoned up and worked fine rest of day 
through docking and later return 

Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Bill,

If it goes into gear by hand, I would think it's a cable issue. Might just need 
some tightening. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:22 AM, wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Good Morning,
I have yanmar 3gm30 with Kanzaki Birth KH18 gearbox. Two blade Max Prop.
Saturday after race when started engine and placed in gear no forward or 
reverse.  Went below and had someone shift neutral, forward, neutral, reverse.  
I could see prop shaft turning.  Buttoned up and worked fine rest of day 
through docking and later return to mooring.  
Yesterday, same symptoms trying to leave mooring for first time since Saturday. 
 Sailed back to mooring.  Going to troubleshoot this morning.
Thoughts to check:
Shift linkage. Make sure full travel.
Transmission fluid level.
Turn shaft by hand to feel geared prop reversing
Dive on prop to see if fouled with fishing line, etc?

Any thoughts welcome.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi


Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
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Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[wwadjourn]

Hurth, ugh.Bill Walker
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List Date: Thu, 
Jun 30, 2016 7:24 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: 
wwadjo...@aol.com;Subject:Stus-List Transmission/prop woes
Good Morning,I have yanmar 3gm30 with Kanzaki Birth KH18 gearbox. Two blade 
Max Prop.Saturday after race when started engine and placed in gear no forward 
or reverse.  Went below and had someone shift neutral, forward, neutral, 
reverse.  I could see prop shaft turning.  Buttoned up and worked fine rest of 
day through docking and later return to mooring.   Yesterday, same symptoms 
trying to leave mooring for first time since Saturday.  Sailed back to mooring. 
 Going to troubleshoot this morning.Thoughts to check:Shift linkage. Make sure 
full travel.Transmission fluid level.Turn shaft by hand to feel geared prop 
reversingDive on prop to see if fouled with fishing line, etc?
Any thoughts welcome.Bill WalkerCnC 36Pentwater, Mi

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greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[wwadjourn]

Good Morning,I have yanmar 3gm30 with Kanzaki Birth KH18 gearbox. Two blade Max 
Prop.Saturday after race when started engine and placed in gear no forward or 
reverse.  Went below and had someone shift neutral, forward, neutral, reverse.  
I could see prop shaft turning.  Buttoned up and worked fine rest of day 
through docking and later return to mooring.   Yesterday, same symptoms trying 
to leave mooring for first time since Saturday.  Sailed back to mooring.  Going 
to troubleshoot this morning.Thoughts to check:Shift linkage. Make sure full 
travel.Transmission fluid level.Turn shaft by hand to feel geared prop 
reversingDive on prop to see if fouled with fishing line, etc?
Any thoughts welcome.Bill WalkerCnC 36Pentwater, Mi

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