Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Am also looking for the right tablet choice - i use two ipad airs today,
have played with a laptop, and my work machine - MS-surface pro4.

Will respectfully and gently disagree with Marek on suitability of a tablet
- IMO depending on the application a tablet is fine.   Not likely to take
Windstar 'round Cape Horn.  Am part way through integrating a tablet with
my instrumentation (with some great help from folks here) and for two
seasons have used an ipad, ram mount and lifeproof case.  Smashed one ipad
season 1, (it was in my backpack, which took a tumble belowdecks) bought
the case, then the mount.  None of it cheap, but it's good stuff.  Ram
mount means I can choose multiple locations.   Under the bimini, in the
case, and on the mount, many of the tablet's shortcomings are overcome, and
it's fine and reliable for Great Lakes daysailing and cruising.   I like
its portability, versatility,  being able to jump between apps, tether to
my phone, etc, and can update, upgrade or replace anything relatively
inexpensively.  (I have two ipads actually, and keep both onboard.  Have
also downloaded the chartplotter app to my iphone.)I like that I do not
need a large pod and upgraded rail at the helm - It's crowded and costly
enough.

Details, rambling discourses, and a few toned-down rants here:

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/09/electronics-what-to-do.html

Still issues to resolve with using the iPad.  It does many things well but
does not play 100% well with other applications.   Windows seems obvious
but I agree with Marek on the windows tablets, - if you get one, you
must get a good one.  Was ready to buy and after investigation I decided
against it.  (so far)   I have a surface pro 4 for work, works fine with a
few maddening quirks, but it is expensive, seems fragile, and the power
connection is definitely designed for on-the-desk use..  Also agree with
Marek on the smaller tablets - handier.   The ipad air especially the
MS-Surface are both very non-ergonomic in the hands, and easy to drop as
you know.   The lifeproof case helps this.   Whatever you get, make sure
you can also get a good case and mount.   Agreed also on the BT keyboard.
IF you want a weatherproof and rugged case you will not have an attached
keyboard.

Without a GPS receiver you can always get a dongle (fragile) or bluetooth
type.  Google "Bad elf" or Garmin GLO.  I have the latter and it works
fine.  Windstar has 3 GPS antennae...

By using bluetooth and possibly onboard GPS you will require more frequent
charging.   Have installed a blueseas dual USB charger at my nav station
(handy)  but a rugged connection to power at the helm is a resolvable
problem I have not yet resolved.

Dave


Message: 1
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 02:27:45 +
From: Marek Dziedzic 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use
Message-ID:


Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I do not believe that a tablet of any kind is a good enough navigation
instrument (I have a Garmin 720 and I trust it much more (I can see the
screen in full sunlight without problems, it is completely waterproof and I
can operate it with keys (not touch)), but I find that if you want a tablet
for anything you are much better off with a low cost ( I don't necessarily
mean cheap) tablet that you can use as disposable. I had very good success
with a Dell Venue Pro (Windows), an Acer (also Windows) and an ASUS Android
one. I also find that the 7-8 inch tablets are much less prone to shattering
problems (they are simply much easier to handle and they have a size that is
much better for keeping in one's hand). The cost can be as low as just
around $100 (8" Android) or around $200 for an 8" Windows. For that money
you can break 3 and buy the 4th and you just come about to the cost of the
Surface Pro or worse yet to the cost of a cheap iPad.

None of the generally available tablets is waterproof or even hardened, so I
would not use it in the cockpit where it might be subjected to water damage.


If you want a keyboard, you can easily buy a BT keyboard for under $30. Add
410 more an you have a complete system with a carrying case and keyboard.

I have a Surface at work and I don't find the screen any better than 1/4
price Dell Venue (or even 1/10 price Acer). It is only bigger. True, the
case is metal, but if you drop it a few times on the ground, the screen will
break.

A word of caution: If you buy a Windows tablet, spend more and get a 64 GB
version (or bigger). With 32 GB you will have a major juggling task if you
need to make a major system upgrade. This unfortunately means that the
majority of tablets that are available on sale are out.

Marek
2015 8" Dell Venue Pro (Win 10)
2012 7" Asus (Android)
2014 8" Acer Iconia (Android)
Ottawa, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
Doyle via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2016 17:40
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Do

Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Before I went on my cruise to the Bahamas I researched tablets for 
waterproofness.  Only Sony advertised their tablet as water.  I'm not naive, I 
do not believe it to be truly water proof but splash proof yes. So I mounted 
the Sony at the helm on a home made mount.  I also carry an IPad, laptop, and 
Raymarine radar/chart plotter.  It's amazing how many times the systems didn't 
agree on my position.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Nov 1, 2016, at 5:49 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Am also looking for the right tablet choice - i use two ipad airs today, have 
> played with a laptop, and my work machine - MS-surface pro4. 
> 
> Will respectfully and gently disagree with Marek on suitability of a tablet - 
> IMO depending on the application a tablet is fine.   Not likely to take 
> Windstar 'round Cape Horn.  Am part way through integrating a tablet with my 
> instrumentation (with some great help from folks here) and for two seasons 
> have used an ipad, ram mount and lifeproof case.  Smashed one ipad season 1, 
> (it was in my backpack, which took a tumble belowdecks) bought the case, then 
> the mount.  None of it cheap, but it's good stuff.  Ram mount means I can 
> choose multiple locations.   Under the bimini, in the case, and on the mount, 
> many of the tablet's shortcomings are overcome, and it's fine and reliable 
> for Great Lakes daysailing and cruising.   I like its portability, 
> versatility,  being able to jump between apps, tether to my phone, etc, and 
> can update, upgrade or replace anything relatively inexpensively.  (I have 
> two ipads actually, and keep both onboard.  Have also downloaded the 
> chartplotter app to my iphone.)I like that I do not need a large pod and 
> upgraded rail at the helm - It's crowded and costly enough. 
> 
> Details, rambling discourses, and a few toned-down rants here: 
> 
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/09/electronics-what-to-do.html
> 
> Still issues to resolve with using the iPad.  It does many things well but 
> does not play 100% well with other applications.   Windows seems obvious 
> but I agree with Marek on the windows tablets, - if you get one, you must 
> get a good one.  Was ready to buy and after investigation I decided against 
> it.  (so far)   I have a surface pro 4 for work, works fine with a few 
> maddening quirks, but it is expensive, seems fragile, and the power 
> connection is definitely designed for on-the-desk use..  Also agree with 
> Marek on the smaller tablets - handier.   The ipad air especially the 
> MS-Surface are both very non-ergonomic in the hands, and easy to drop as you 
> know.   The lifeproof case helps this.   Whatever you get, make sure you can 
> also get a good case and mount.   Agreed also on the BT keyboard.  IF you 
> want a weatherproof and rugged case you will not have an attached keyboard.
> 
> Without a GPS receiver you can always get a dongle (fragile) or bluetooth 
> type.  Google "Bad elf" or Garmin GLO.  I have the latter and it works fine.  
> Windstar has 3 GPS antennae...
> 
> By using bluetooth and possibly onboard GPS you will require more frequent 
> charging.   Have installed a blueseas dual USB charger at my nav station 
> (handy)  but a rugged connection to power at the helm is a resolvable problem 
> I have not yet resolved.
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 02:27:45 +
> From: Marek Dziedzic 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use
> Message-ID:
> 
> 
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I do not believe that a tablet of any kind is a good enough navigation
> instrument (I have a Garmin 720 and I trust it much more (I can see the
> screen in full sunlight without problems, it is completely waterproof and I
> can operate it with keys (not touch)), but I find that if you want a tablet
> for anything you are much better off with a low cost ( I don't necessarily
> mean cheap) tablet that you can use as disposable. I had very good success
> with a Dell Venue Pro (Windows), an Acer (also Windows) and an ASUS Android
> one. I also find that the 7-8 inch tablets are much less prone to shattering
> problems (they are simply much easier to handle and they have a size that is
> much better for keeping in one's hand). The cost can be as low as just
> around $100 (8" Android) or around $200 for an 8" Windows. For that money
> you can break 3 and buy the 4th and you just come about to the cost of the
> Surface Pro or worse yet to the cost of a cheap iPad.
> 
> None of the generally available tablets is waterproof or even hardened, so I
> would not use it in the cockpit where it might be subjected to water damage.
> 
> 
> If you want a keyboard, you can easily buy a BT keyboard for under $30. Add
> 410 more an you have a complete system with a carrying case and keyboard.
> 
> I have a Surface at work and I don't find the screen any better than 1/4
> price Dell Venue (or e

Re: Stus-List Force on the midship cleat

[Larry via CnC-List]

I have the folding toe rail cleat at midship, port and starboard and love it.

 

Larry

1986 CnC 38 mkIII

Freeland Wa

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2016 7:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph
Subject: Stus-List Force on the midship cleat

 

I'm keen on these toe rail midship cleats that CnCers have been recommending 
and thinking of ordering some:

 

http://www.csjohnson.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info 

 &products_id=23

 

They're rated for a load of 2,000lb.  Assuming my 10,000 displacement C&C is on 
a nylon spring line (with rubber snubbers) tied to this in a 40kn wind, will 
the cleat hold?

 

Thanks,

  Jeremy

 

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

We've cruised with an iPad .. well, on all our cruises. Two to three weeks
each time. We stow it when the weather is bad but we don't really do much
sailing when the weather is bad, we have that choice being lake sailors.

I also own a helm mounted chartplotter that we got at the start of this
year. I use both. But the iPad is better in a lot of ways to be honest.

I like my Asus built "Google Nexus". It has built in GPS and it's 7". Like
Marek says, it's a nice size for handling and they are not expensive. The
only reason we use the iPad instead of it is because I cracked the screen
(boat related actually, but much more to do with my carelessness than
marine conditions). I think a Surface is overkill for your application. Use
the voice recognition for writing emails, forget about keyboards :)

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 8:22 AM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Before I went on my cruise to the Bahamas I researched tablets for
> waterproofness.  Only Sony advertised their tablet as water.  I'm not
> naive, I do not believe it to be truly water proof but splash proof yes. So
> I mounted the Sony at the helm on a home made mount.  I also carry an IPad,
> laptop, and Raymarine radar/chart plotter.  It's amazing how many times the
> systems didn't agree on my position.
>
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> On Nov 1, 2016, at 5:49 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Am also looking for the right tablet choice - i use two ipad airs today,
> have played with a laptop, and my work machine - MS-surface pro4.
>
> Will respectfully and gently disagree with Marek on suitability of a
> tablet - IMO depending on the application a tablet is fine.   Not likely to
> take Windstar 'round Cape Horn.  Am part way through integrating a tablet
> with my instrumentation (with some great help from folks here) and for two
> seasons have used an ipad, ram mount and lifeproof case.  Smashed one ipad
> season 1, (it was in my backpack, which took a tumble belowdecks) bought
> the case, then the mount.  None of it cheap, but it's good stuff.  Ram
> mount means I can choose multiple locations.   Under the bimini, in the
> case, and on the mount, many of the tablet's shortcomings are overcome, and
> it's fine and reliable for Great Lakes daysailing and cruising.   I like
> its portability, versatility,  being able to jump between apps, tether to
> my phone, etc, and can update, upgrade or replace anything relatively
> inexpensively.  (I have two ipads actually, and keep both onboard.  Have
> also downloaded the chartplotter app to my iphone.)I like that I do not
> need a large pod and upgraded rail at the helm - It's crowded and costly
> enough.
>
> Details, rambling discourses, and a few toned-down rants here:
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/09/electronics-what-to-do.html
>
> Still issues to resolve with using the iPad.  It does many things well but
> does not play 100% well with other applications.   Windows seems obvious
> but I agree with Marek on the windows tablets, - if you get one, you
> must get a good one.  Was ready to buy and after investigation I decided
> against it.  (so far)   I have a surface pro 4 for work, works fine with a
> few maddening quirks, but it is expensive, seems fragile, and the power
> connection is definitely designed for on-the-desk use..  Also agree with
> Marek on the smaller tablets - handier.   The ipad air especially the
> MS-Surface are both very non-ergonomic in the hands, and easy to drop as
> you know.   The lifeproof case helps this.   Whatever you get, make sure
> you can also get a good case and mount.   Agreed also on the BT keyboard.
> IF you want a weatherproof and rugged case you will not have an attached
> keyboard.
>
> Without a GPS receiver you can always get a dongle (fragile) or bluetooth
> type.  Google "Bad elf" or Garmin GLO.  I have the latter and it works
> fine.  Windstar has 3 GPS antennae...
>
> By using bluetooth and possibly onboard GPS you will require more frequent
> charging.   Have installed a blueseas dual USB charger at my nav station
> (handy)  but a rugged connection to power at the helm is a resolvable
> problem I have not yet resolved.
>
> Dave
>
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 02:27:45 +
> From: Marek Dziedzic 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use
> Message-ID:
>  17.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I do not believe that a tablet of any kind is a good enough navigation
> instrument (I have a Garmin 720 and I trust it much more (I can see the
> screen in full sunlight without problems, it is completely waterproof and I
> can operate it with keys (not touch)), but I find that if you want a tablet
> for anything you are much better off with a low cost ( I don't necessarily
> mean cheap) tablet that you can use as disposable. I had very good success
> with a Dell Venue

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Maybe it would work better for the candidates and their running mates to race 
each other on Lasers or the like…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 31, 2016, at 2:45 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I wish sailing season was as long as the election season.  We’d all be much 
> happier..
> Chuck Gilchrest
> 1983 Landfall 35
> C&C Marque
> Rob Ball  Design
> C&C Rhode Island built

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Of course, this discussion can easily go into what’s better: Christmas or 
Easter? (or Windows vs. Apple, which usually leads to holy wars).

I am not saying that I recommend against using tablets on-board. Rather, I 
don’t consider them Navigation Instruments (capitalisation intended).

I do understand why delivery skippers take their own tablets when they sail 
other people’s boats – their tablet is a given; what you find on-board is at 
best a question mark. They probably also have a portable GPS in their backpack 
as a backup. And potentially a paper chart, as a backup to the backup.

I fully agree on RAM mounts. They work great and you can easily move the device 
from place to place or turn it around to use from in front of the wheel.

I don’t necessarily buy the argument that “the iPad is cheaper than a 
chartplotter”. You can buy a decent chartplotter for a price of an iPad. Of 
course the argument assumes that you bought the iPad already (so it comes free) 
and you have to buy the chartplotter outright. And if you drop the tablet, it 
is probably gone (and you don’t drop a chartplotter, at least not often).

No question, upgrades to any tablet are infinitely easier (and cheaper) than to 
any chartplotter. You can’t even take the chartplotter home and upgrade it from 
the Internet. It is always a two step process (or is it a 4-step: download the 
upgrade, take it to the boat, swap the SD card, upgrade).

Another issue might be that if you use a tablet, it is much more prone to 
getting stolen (if you leave it on the boat). Someone on the list mentioned 
that his SD card was stolen from a chartplotter. But the chartplotter is at 
least difficult to remove. On the other hand, if you take the tablet with you 
each time, you have to rig it back each time you sail. What about if you forget 
it at home?

The good thing is that there are many choices and the cost of having a 
real-time map of where you are are dropping.

Btw. I usually sail on a lake where a wave over 1 m would be considered extreme 
(though we get a splash over the helm on occasion (like twice a season)), so 
waterproofing the navigation instruments is not really an issue. The problem of 
readability in the sun is much more of an issue. Am I arguing against myself?

Marek

Ottawa, ON


From: Dave S via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 1, 2016 05:50
To: C&c Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

Am also looking for the right tablet choice - i use two ipad airs today, have 
played with a laptop, and my work machine - MS-surface pro4.

Will respectfully and gently disagree with Marek on suitability of a tablet - 
IMO depending on the application a tablet is fine.   Not likely to take 
Windstar 'round Cape Horn.  Am part way through integrating a tablet with my 
instrumentation (with some great help from folks here) and for two seasons have 
used an ipad, ram mount and lifeproof case.  Smashed one ipad season 1, (it was 
in my backpack, which took a tumble belowdecks) bought the case, then the 
mount.  None of it cheap, but it's good stuff.  Ram mount means I can choose 
multiple locations.   Under the bimini, in the case, and on the mount, many of 
the tablet's shortcomings are overcome, and it's fine and reliable for Great 
Lakes daysailing and cruising.   I like its portability, versatility,  being 
able to jump between apps, tether to my phone, etc, and can update, upgrade or 
replace anything relatively inexpensively.  (I have two ipads actually, and 
keep both onboard.  Have also downloaded the chartplotter app to my iphone.)
I like that I do not need a large pod and upgraded rail at the helm - It's 
crowded and costly enough.

Details, rambling discourses, and a few toned-down rants here:

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/09/electronics-what-to-do.html

Still issues to resolve with using the iPad.  It does many things well but does 
not play 100% well with other applications.   Windows seems obvious but I 
agree with Marek on the windows tablets, - if you get one, you must get a good 
one.  Was ready to buy and after investigation I decided against it.  (so far)  
 I have a surface pro 4 for work, works fine with a few maddening quirks, but 
it is expensive, seems fragile, and the power connection is definitely designed 
for on-the-desk use..  Also agree with Marek on the smaller tablets - handier.  
 The ipad air especially the MS-Surface are both very non-ergonomic in the 
hands, and easy to drop as you know.   The lifeproof case helps this.   
Whatever you get, make sure you can also get a good case and mount.   Agreed 
also on the BT keyboard.  IF you want a weatherproof and rugged case you will 
not have an attached keyboard.

Without a GPS receiver you can always get a dongle (fragile) or bluetooth type. 
 Google "Bad elf" or Garmin GLO.  I have the latter and it works fine.  
Windstar has 3 GPS antennae...

By using bluetooth and possibly onboard GPS you will require more freq

Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I would not want a unit with a keyboard above deck unless it were a
ToughBook, but they are way overpriced.
A tablet in a case and BT keyboard would be a safer option.

Joel

On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 8:57 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We've cruised with an iPad .. well, on all our cruises. Two to three weeks
> each time. We stow it when the weather is bad but we don't really do much
> sailing when the weather is bad, we have that choice being lake sailors.
>
> I also own a helm mounted chartplotter that we got at the start of this
> year. I use both. But the iPad is better in a lot of ways to be honest.
>
> I like my Asus built "Google Nexus". It has built in GPS and it's 7". Like
> Marek says, it's a nice size for handling and they are not expensive. The
> only reason we use the iPad instead of it is because I cracked the screen
> (boat related actually, but much more to do with my carelessness than
> marine conditions). I think a Surface is overkill for your application. Use
> the voice recognition for writing emails, forget about keyboards :)
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 8:22 AM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Before I went on my cruise to the Bahamas I researched tablets for
>> waterproofness.  Only Sony advertised their tablet as water.  I'm not
>> naive, I do not believe it to be truly water proof but splash proof yes. So
>> I mounted the Sony at the helm on a home made mount.  I also carry an IPad,
>> laptop, and Raymarine radar/chart plotter.  It's amazing how many times the
>> systems didn't agree on my position.
>>
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C&C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>>
>> On Nov 1, 2016, at 5:49 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Am also looking for the right tablet choice - i use two ipad airs today,
>> have played with a laptop, and my work machine - MS-surface pro4.
>>
>> Will respectfully and gently disagree with Marek on suitability of a
>> tablet - IMO depending on the application a tablet is fine.   Not likely to
>> take Windstar 'round Cape Horn.  Am part way through integrating a tablet
>> with my instrumentation (with some great help from folks here) and for two
>> seasons have used an ipad, ram mount and lifeproof case.  Smashed one ipad
>> season 1, (it was in my backpack, which took a tumble belowdecks) bought
>> the case, then the mount.  None of it cheap, but it's good stuff.  Ram
>> mount means I can choose multiple locations.   Under the bimini, in the
>> case, and on the mount, many of the tablet's shortcomings are overcome, and
>> it's fine and reliable for Great Lakes daysailing and cruising.   I like
>> its portability, versatility,  being able to jump between apps, tether to
>> my phone, etc, and can update, upgrade or replace anything relatively
>> inexpensively.  (I have two ipads actually, and keep both onboard.  Have
>> also downloaded the chartplotter app to my iphone.)I like that I do not
>> need a large pod and upgraded rail at the helm - It's crowded and costly
>> enough.
>>
>> Details, rambling discourses, and a few toned-down rants here:
>>
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/09/electronics-what-to-do.html
>>
>> Still issues to resolve with using the iPad.  It does many things well
>> but does not play 100% well with other applications.   Windows seems
>> obvious but I agree with Marek on the windows tablets, - if you get
>> one, you must get a good one.  Was ready to buy and after investigation I
>> decided against it.  (so far)   I have a surface pro 4 for work, works fine
>> with a few maddening quirks, but it is expensive, seems fragile, and the
>> power connection is definitely designed for on-the-desk use..  Also agree
>> with Marek on the smaller tablets - handier.   The ipad air especially the
>> MS-Surface are both very non-ergonomic in the hands, and easy to drop as
>> you know.   The lifeproof case helps this.   Whatever you get, make sure
>> you can also get a good case and mount.   Agreed also on the BT keyboard.
>> IF you want a weatherproof and rugged case you will not have an attached
>> keyboard.
>>
>> Without a GPS receiver you can always get a dongle (fragile) or bluetooth
>> type.  Google "Bad elf" or Garmin GLO.  I have the latter and it works
>> fine.  Windstar has 3 GPS antennae...
>>
>> By using bluetooth and possibly onboard GPS you will require more
>> frequent charging.   Have installed a blueseas dual USB charger at my nav
>> station (handy)  but a rugged connection to power at the helm is a
>> resolvable problem I have not yet resolved.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 02:27:45 +
>> From: Marek Dziedzic 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use
>> Message-ID:
>> > 17.prod.outlook.com>
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>
>> I do not believe that a tablet of any kind is a good enough navigation
>> instrument (I have

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I am not trying to meddle in foreign elections... (:-)

But I would suggest O’pen BICs (Laser is to big).

We have a Harbour Master’s race each year. It is run inside the marina (in the 
fairways) as a series of match races in a cup system. I think you have to be 
over a certain age to register (i.e no children allowed). Always a lot of fun 
(especially to watch).

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 1, 2016 09:03
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C...not a C&C??

Maybe it would work better for the candidates and their running mates to race 
each other on Lasers or the like…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 31, 2016, at 2:45 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I wish sailing season was as long as the election season.  We’d all be much 
happier..
Chuck Gilchrest
1983 Landfall 35
C&C Marque
Rob Ball  Design
C&C Rhode Island built

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Radar mount

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Mike - for something removable and rarely used, you may want to consider 
self-fabricating a stern pole.  It’s a bit of work, but I’d suggest the type 
that drops into a fiberglass tube glassed in and supported with gussets below 
the stern deck.  If you design and install it well, you can get away with 
minimal lateral support above the deck, and you could arrange things so that 
you just pull the tube, disconnect the radar and cap the hole when you’re not 
using it.  The tube below-deck tube should extend as far down into the hull as 
you can get it, to provide support for the stern pole.

Here’s a guy who did a similar job on his Tartan: 
http://www.oceannavigator.com/January-February-2003/Installing-a-radar-set-on-an-older-vessel/

You wouldn’t need to use Edson (or ScanStrut, or…) hardware for the pole 
itself; get aluminum tubing of the correct diameter to mate with your top plate 
of choice, and have it powder-coated.  That’ll save some $$$.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 31, 2016, at 1:40 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> A question to this list about mounting a radar
>  
> I recently stumbled into a situation where a 5 year old Garmin radome that 
> was the exact correct model for our Garmin GPSMAP 740 chartplotter became 
> available for just under $500.  Given this great price and our recent night 
> trip up the coast in heavy fog we decided we should snatch this up.
>  
> We like to be able to do a bit of cruising on our boat but we also like to do 
> some racing.  As with all the other cruisy stuff (dodger, bimini, etc) I like 
> the option of being able to install it only for a cruise and leave it home 
> the rest of the time.  I do not wish to have the radome mounted on the mast 
> for this reason (and the wear and other issues on the jib).  Was thinking of 
> either a backstay mounted solution or a removable radar pole at the stern.  
> Something like the Scanstrut SC100 series.  The issue I have found is that 
> the backstay mount and removable pole mounts are extremely expensive and we 
> are not even certain how much we will use this. 
>  
> Any advice from others on this list or knowledge of a used pole or perhaps 
> info on how to manufacture my own?
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> HAlifax

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Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I'm replying from my "major brand remanufactured" tablet I got for $65
online.  When I peeled off the stickers it revealed an HP10 tablet.
Although I don't use it on the boat, Navionics and OpenCPN seem to work on
it.  Guess my point is buy a couple of cheap tablets rather than an
expensive one.

Also depending on the version Android tablets can be a bit quirky how they
handle data storage with regard to SD cards.  Make sure you can load charts
and point the programs to them.

Dennis C.

On Nov 1, 2016 7:58 AM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> We've cruised with an iPad .. well, on all our cruises. Two to three weeks
> each time. We stow it when the weather is bad but we don't really do much
> sailing when the weather is bad, we have that choice being lake sailors.
>
> I also own a helm mounted chartplotter that we got at the start of this
> year. I use both. But the iPad is better in a lot of ways to be honest.
>
> I like my Asus built "Google Nexus". It has built in GPS and it's 7". Like
> Marek says, it's a nice size for handling and they are not expensive. The
> only reason we use the iPad instead of it is because I cracked the screen
> (boat related actually, but much more to do with my carelessness than
> marine conditions). I think a Surface is overkill for your application. Use
> the voice recognition for writing emails, forget about keyboards :)
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 8:22 AM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Before I went on my cruise to the Bahamas I researched tablets for
>> waterproofness.  Only Sony advertised their tablet as water.  I'm not
>> naive, I do not believe it to be truly water proof but splash proof yes. So
>> I mounted the Sony at the helm on a home made mount.  I also carry an IPad,
>> laptop, and Raymarine radar/chart plotter.  It's amazing how many times the
>> systems didn't agree on my position.
>>
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C&C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>>
>> On Nov 1, 2016, at 5:49 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Am also looking for the right tablet choice - i use two ipad airs today,
>> have played with a laptop, and my work machine - MS-surface pro4.
>>
>> Will respectfully and gently disagree with Marek on suitability of a
>> tablet - IMO depending on the application a tablet is fine.   Not likely to
>> take Windstar 'round Cape Horn.  Am part way through integrating a tablet
>> with my instrumentation (with some great help from folks here) and for two
>> seasons have used an ipad, ram mount and lifeproof case.  Smashed one ipad
>> season 1, (it was in my backpack, which took a tumble belowdecks) bought
>> the case, then the mount.  None of it cheap, but it's good stuff.  Ram
>> mount means I can choose multiple locations.   Under the bimini, in the
>> case, and on the mount, many of the tablet's shortcomings are overcome, and
>> it's fine and reliable for Great Lakes daysailing and cruising.   I like
>> its portability, versatility,  being able to jump between apps, tether to
>> my phone, etc, and can update, upgrade or replace anything relatively
>> inexpensively.  (I have two ipads actually, and keep both onboard.  Have
>> also downloaded the chartplotter app to my iphone.)I like that I do not
>> need a large pod and upgraded rail at the helm - It's crowded and costly
>> enough.
>>
>> Details, rambling discourses, and a few toned-down rants here:
>>
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/09/electronics-what-to-do.html
>>
>> Still issues to resolve with using the iPad.  It does many things well
>> but does not play 100% well with other applications.   Windows seems
>> obvious but I agree with Marek on the windows tablets, - if you get
>> one, you must get a good one.  Was ready to buy and after investigation I
>> decided against it.  (so far)   I have a surface pro 4 for work, works fine
>> with a few maddening quirks, but it is expensive, seems fragile, and the
>> power connection is definitely designed for on-the-desk use..  Also agree
>> with Marek on the smaller tablets - handier.   The ipad air especially the
>> MS-Surface are both very non-ergonomic in the hands, and easy to drop as
>> you know.   The lifeproof case helps this.   Whatever you get, make sure
>> you can also get a good case and mount.   Agreed also on the BT keyboard.
>> IF you want a weatherproof and rugged case you will not have an attached
>> keyboard.
>>
>> Without a GPS receiver you can always get a dongle (fragile) or bluetooth
>> type.  Google "Bad elf" or Garmin GLO.  I have the latter and it works
>> fine.  Windstar has 3 GPS antennae...
>>
>> By using bluetooth and possibly onboard GPS you will require more
>> frequent charging.   Have installed a blueseas dual USB charger at my nav
>> station (handy)  but a rugged connection to power at the helm is a
>> resolvable problem I have not yet resolved.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 02:27:45 +
>> From: Marek Dziedzic 
>> T

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

The protest hearings would be excruciating and both would be banned for rule 69 
infractions..
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 1, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am not trying to meddle in foreign elections... (:-)
>  
> But I would suggest O’pen BICs (Laser is to big).
>  
> We have a Harbour Master’s race each year. It is run inside the marina (in 
> the fairways) as a series of match races in a cup system. I think you have to 
> be over a certain age to register (i.e no children allowed). Always a lot of 
> fun (especially to watch).
>  
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, November 1, 2016 09:03
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frederick G Street
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C...not a C&C??
>  
> Maybe it would work better for the candidates and their running mates to race 
> each other on Lasers or the like…   :^)
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>  
>> On Oct 31, 2016, at 2:45 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>>  
>> I wish sailing season was as long as the election season.  We’d all be much 
>> happier..
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> 1983 Landfall 35
>> C&C Marque
>> Rob Ball  Design
>> C&C Rhode Island built
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

[Larry via CnC-List]

I am in the middle of troubleshooting my auto pilot, but I believe it is a lost 
cause. The boat is relatively new to me. I have owned it just two seasons. I 
spent the first season just taking her out occasionally and going through her, 
cleaning, repairing and replacing items that did not meet my satisfaction. 

This season I took her out and enjoyed the season.  I have always left the 
st4000 in standby and it seemed to work fine. Then I decided to check out the 
st4000 out completely and ran into errors. It appears to be fine at first in 
the Auto mode, until I try to actually use it. It does not actually do anything 
and within 5 min the display will read “low Battery” and occasionally “no 
Data”.  I checked the voltage to the Unit and it is good. I know I have a 
little more work to do. Like actually check the drive unit and see if it works 
at all. I can purchase a control head for 500 dollars on eBay. But I need to 
determine if anything else is bad first.

 

Has anyone else replace the auto pilot system on their CnC and if so with what.

 

Larry

1986 CnC 38-ft MKIII

Freeland, WA

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Re: Stus-List VMG at the helm VMG vs WCV

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

OK, let's talk VMG wind vs WCV.  Both are the result of a vector addition.
Most GPS units show WCV as VMG.  Think of it as VMG waypoint or VMG GPS.

VMG wind is velocity made good directly upwind or directly downwind.  This
is useful for racers on windward/leeward race courses.  VMG wind requires
wind and boat speed through water inputs.  It is independent of GPS data.
You must have a good sailing instrument system to see VMG wind.

WCV is waypoint closure velocity.  It is the velocity at which you are
approaching the GPS waypoint.  It's nice for cruising and point to point
races but less useful for W/L races.  The issue with WCV or GPS VMG is
that, as you approach the layline, WCV tends to zero since you are sailing
90 degrees to your direct course to the mark.  So it works good at the
start of the leg but tends to fail at the end of the leg.  It also requires
you to reset the mark (waypoint) after each rounding.

However, there is a way to use GPS based VMG for W/L races.  Once the
course is announced by the race committee, proceed to the center of the
start line and set a waypoint 20-50 miles directly up the course.  Setting
a mark a long ways away will minimize the inaccuracy as you approach the
upwind mark, I.e. layline.  It will also work on the downwind leg but your
VMG GPS might show as a negative number.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Oct 31, 2016 2:01 PM, "Charlie Nelson via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hey all;

Although I have VMG (or at least its approximate equivalent) available from
my Garmin 746 Chart plotter and can display it on one of my 4 Garmin
displays above the companionway, I find it difficult to see it with crew in
the cockpit and I don't like putting my head into the boat looking down at
the chart-plotter mounted above the binnacle while I am trying my best to
go hard on the wind.

OK-OK--I know this hardly qualifies as a serious problem!!

Nonetheless, I am looking for the simplest solution that allows me to see
the VMG either on my iphone (hard to read with sunglasses on), or a 'smart
watch' which may have the same problem. I realize I could use
another battery powered GPS but I would need to mount it and operate it
while trying to get my head in to the race at the same time.

Ideally glasses with a heads-up display of it would have it in front of me
no matter what else was going on.

Any listers have solutions or ideas? My simpleminded thought is to put the
RC or starting line in as a MOB mark and then use either the
largest negative VMG upwind from it to guide me at the helm and the
largest positive VMG downwind from it find the best AWA. This would likely
give me the best course to steer no matter how true the course is to
windward.

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb 1995



cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Rodney Meryweather via CnC-List]

IMHO
  Tablets can be fine but I prefer an integrated chart-plotter. The one 
that I have chosen for now is the Garmin 74dv echomap chirp system. I like the 
fact that I can have two separate mounts for it, one at the helm that it snaps 
into when I am there that ties into everything and one down below when I want 
to lay out tracks waypoints etc. it also comes with a mini-SD card that can 
also be programmed or used for historical data. 
   I  presently using it with an in hull transducer just forward of the 
keel in the the V berth locker on my C&C 35-1. Works like a charm and no worry 
about water leaks. 
There are a great many features for it from setting up the view(s) you 
want and it accepts the nmea integrations also. 
I have mine set up to display 3D from above and behind, a regular 
chart, sounding graph and wind direction/speed. Along with this it also over 
lays numerical gps coord, speed, heading, on off course etc. 
  For those really interested in what the bottom looks like you can 
spend a few more scheckels and get the Side view (sv) or panoptic (i.e.  3D ) 
bottom view. 
  Either way it is a good mid to lower cost unit. 

Rod Meryweather

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 1, 2016, at 05:49, Dave S  wrote:
> 
> Am also looking for the right tablet choice - i use two ipad airs today, have 
> played with a laptop, and my work machine - MS-surface pro4. 
> 
> Will respectfully and gently disagree with Marek on suitability of a tablet - 
> IMO depending on the application a tablet is fine.   Not likely to take 
> Windstar 'round Cape Horn.  Am part way through integrating a tablet with my 
> instrumentation (with some great help from folks here) and for two seasons 
> have used an ipad, ram mount and lifeproof case.  Smashed one ipad season 1, 
> (it was in my backpack, which took a tumble belowdecks) bought the case, then 
> the mount.  None of it cheap, but it's good stuff.  Ram mount means I can 
> choose multiple locations.   Under the bimini, in the case, and on the mount, 
> many of the tablet's shortcomings are overcome, and it's fine and reliable 
> for Great Lakes daysailing and cruising.   I like its portability, 
> versatility,  being able to jump between apps, tether to my phone, etc, and 
> can update, upgrade or replace anything relatively inexpensively.  (I have 
> two ipads actually, and keep both onboard.  Have also downloaded the 
> chartplotter app to my iphone.)I like that I do not need a large pod and 
> upgraded rail at the helm - It's crowded and costly enough. 
> 
> Details, rambling discourses, and a few toned-down rants here: 
> 
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/09/electronics-what-to-do.html
> 
> Still issues to resolve with using the iPad.  It does many things well but 
> does not play 100% well with other applications.   Windows seems obvious 
> but I agree with Marek on the windows tablets, - if you get one, you must 
> get a good one.  Was ready to buy and after investigation I decided against 
> it.  (so far)   I have a surface pro 4 for work, works fine with a few 
> maddening quirks, but it is expensive, seems fragile, and the power 
> connection is definitely designed for on-the-desk use..  Also agree with 
> Marek on the smaller tablets - handier.   The ipad air especially the 
> MS-Surface are both very non-ergonomic in the hands, and easy to drop as you 
> know.   The lifeproof case helps this.   Whatever you get, make sure you can 
> also get a good case and mount.   Agreed also on the BT keyboard.  IF you 
> want a weatherproof and rugged case you will not have an attached keyboard.
> 
> Without a GPS receiver you can always get a dongle (fragile) or bluetooth 
> type.  Google "Bad elf" or Garmin GLO.  I have the latter and it works fine.  
> Windstar has 3 GPS antennae...
> 
> By using bluetooth and possibly onboard GPS you will require more frequent 
> charging.   Have installed a blueseas dual USB charger at my nav station 
> (handy)  but a rugged connection to power at the helm is a resolvable problem 
> I have not yet resolved.
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 02:27:45 +
> From: Marek Dziedzic 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use
> Message-ID:
> 
> 
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I do not believe that a tablet of any kind is a good enough navigation
> instrument (I have a Garmin 720 and I trust it much more (I can see the
> screen in full sunlight without problems, it is completely waterproof and I
> can operate it with keys (not touch)), but I find that if you want a tablet
> for anything you are much better off with a low cost ( I don't necessarily
> mean cheap) tablet that you can use as disposable. I had very good success
> with a Dell Venue Pro (Windows), an Acer (also Windows) and an ASUS Android
> one. I also find that the 7-8 inch tablets are much less prone to shattering
> problems 

Re: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The drive is a 12 volt motor with two wires. Connect it directly to 12 volts 
and the helm turns one way. Reverse the wires and it turns the other way.
Do that first and also REALLY check the power supply. I have gone nuts with bad 
connections that dropped the voltage when the drive motor turns and even worse, 
you can have an issue where the main power connection is bad and the autopilot 
is running off the +12 line on the Seatalk bus. That cannot support actually 
running the drive motor.

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Larry via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 09:39
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Larry 
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

I am in the middle of troubleshooting my auto pilot, but I believe it is a lost 
cause. The boat is relatively new to me. I have owned it just two seasons. I 
spent the first season just taking her out occasionally and going through her, 
cleaning, repairing and replacing items that did not meet my satisfaction.
This season I took her out and enjoyed the season.  I have always left the 
st4000 in standby and it seemed to work fine. Then I decided to check out the 
st4000 out completely and ran into errors. It appears to be fine at first in 
the Auto mode, until I try to actually use it. It does not actually do anything 
and within 5 min the display will read “low Battery” and occasionally “no 
Data”.  I checked the voltage to the Unit and it is good. I know I have a 
little more work to do. Like actually check the drive unit and see if it works 
at all. I can purchase a control head for 500 dollars on eBay. But I need to 
determine if anything else is bad first.

Has anyone else replace the auto pilot system on their CnC and if so with what.

Larry
1986 CnC 38-ft MKIII
Freeland, WA
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Radar mount

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Anyone ever hoisted a mount up attached to the spinnaker pole track???
J
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 09:26
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Radar mount

Mike - for something removable and rarely used, you may want to consider 
self-fabricating a stern pole.  It’s a bit of work, but I’d suggest the type 
that drops into a fiberglass tube glassed in and supported with gussets below 
the stern deck.  If you design and install it well, you can get away with 
minimal lateral support above the deck, and you could arrange things so that 
you just pull the tube, disconnect the radar and cap the hole when you’re not 
using it.  The tube below-deck tube should extend as far down into the hull as 
you can get it, to provide support for the stern pole.

Here’s a guy who did a similar job on his Tartan: 
http://www.oceannavigator.com/January-February-2003/Installing-a-radar-set-on-an-older-vessel/

You wouldn’t need to use Edson (or ScanStrut, or…) hardware for the pole 
itself; get aluminum tubing of the correct diameter to mate with your top plate 
of choice, and have it powder-coated.  That’ll save some $$$.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 31, 2016, at 1:40 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

A question to this list about mounting a radar

I recently stumbled into a situation where a 5 year old Garmin radome that was 
the exact correct model for our Garmin GPSMAP 740 chartplotter became available 
for just under $500.  Given this great price and our recent night trip up the 
coast in heavy fog we decided we should snatch this up.

We like to be able to do a bit of cruising on our boat but we also like to do 
some racing.  As with all the other cruisy stuff (dodger, bimini, etc) I like 
the option of being able to install it only for a cruise and leave it home the 
rest of the time.  I do not wish to have the radome mounted on the mast for 
this reason (and the wear and other issues on the jib).  Was thinking of either 
a backstay mounted solution or a removable radar pole at the stern.  Something 
like the Scanstrut SC100 series.  The issue I have found is that the backstay 
mount and removable pole mounts are extremely expensive and we are not even 
certain how much we will use this.

Any advice from others on this list or knowledge of a used pole or perhaps info 
on how to manufacture my own?

Thanks

Mike
Persistence
HAlifax

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Crane for spinnaker halyard on a 44?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I would like to add a crane to move the spinnaker halyard block forward of
the headstay about a foot.  Selden does not make a pre-fab crane for large
boats.

I was looking at a 5 inch aluminum channel:
http://www.speedymetals.com/p-2221-1885-x-0325-x-5-325-channel-6061-t6-aluminum-extruded.aspx

Any idea if this could handle the load?  Should I go for stainless?

Thanks.
Joel
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Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

With some $250 Chromebooks already supporting android apps, and the upcoming 
merging of ChromeOS and AndroidOS into AnromedaOS, I’m sure we’ll see 
Chromebooks running Navionics plus a plethora of other marine related apps real 
soon.   I think the the big issue right now is that most Chromebooks don’t have 
GPS but I have read online that this is about to change with the release of 
AnromedaOS as android app will drive hardware updates on new Chromebooks.

I’m not about to give up my chart plotter (big fan my of Raymarine e7d), but 
for planning, toying around, and even viewing and controlling the chart plotter 
remotely (i.e. RayViiew, RayControl, & RayRemote), the addition of a low priced 
Chromebook is looking like it will make a good addition. 


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

If the drive part of your autopilot is good, it will work fine with the older 
AH4000 as well as the newest Raymarine units. The drive has changed color and 
detail a bit since the 80s, but they all work the same. One motor that turns 
one way or the other ;)

Joe
Coquina
Original AH4000 from 1988 or so


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 10:09
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

The drive is a 12 volt motor with two wires. Connect it directly to 12 volts 
and the helm turns one way. Reverse the wires and it turns the other way.
Do that first and also REALLY check the power supply. I have gone nuts with bad 
connections that dropped the voltage when the drive motor turns and even worse, 
you can have an issue where the main power connection is bad and the autopilot 
is running off the +12 line on the Seatalk bus. That cannot support actually 
running the drive motor.

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Larry via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 09:39
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Larry mailto:ladoug...@comcast.net>>
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

I am in the middle of troubleshooting my auto pilot, but I believe it is a lost 
cause. The boat is relatively new to me. I have owned it just two seasons. I 
spent the first season just taking her out occasionally and going through her, 
cleaning, repairing and replacing items that did not meet my satisfaction.
This season I took her out and enjoyed the season.  I have always left the 
st4000 in standby and it seemed to work fine. Then I decided to check out the 
st4000 out completely and ran into errors. It appears to be fine at first in 
the Auto mode, until I try to actually use it. It does not actually do anything 
and within 5 min the display will read “low Battery” and occasionally “no 
Data”.  I checked the voltage to the Unit and it is good. I know I have a 
little more work to do. Like actually check the drive unit and see if it works 
at all. I can purchase a control head for 500 dollars on eBay. But I need to 
determine if anything else is bad first.

Has anyone else replace the auto pilot system on their CnC and if so with what.

Larry
1986 CnC 38-ft MKIII
Freeland, WA
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

[Larry via CnC-List]

Joe

What I believe you are stating is, all units output on two wires to control a 
drive unit, like the new electrical rotary drive unit. It is all a function of 
dc voltage to control the direction of turn. Just as long as the voltage out is 
the correct voltage and amperage any unit should be able to turn. But then 
there is the matter of compass input, rudder input and etc.

 

I will check into the AH4000.  The ST4000 is a complete unit in itself. I 
understand they are not all that water tight and are prone to corrosion.

There is also a bulletin from Raymarine that suggest soldering a diode across 
two point.

I used to electronics in the Military and including miniature repair 
(component). I no longer have the eyes, steady hands or tools to do that. I may 
just take the unit to an electronic repair shop and have them look at it. 
Assuming all else is functioning as designed.

Thanks

Larry

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 7:31 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

 

If the drive part of your autopilot is good, it will work fine with the older 
AH4000 as well as the newest Raymarine units. The drive has changed color and 
detail a bit since the 80s, but they all work the same. One motor that turns 
one way or the other ;)

 

Joe

Coquina

Original AH4000 from 1988 or so

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 10:09
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

 

The drive is a 12 volt motor with two wires. Connect it directly to 12 volts 
and the helm turns one way. Reverse the wires and it turns the other way.

Do that first and also REALLY check the power supply. I have gone nuts with bad 
connections that dropped the voltage when the drive motor turns and even worse, 
you can have an issue where the main power connection is bad and the autopilot 
is running off the +12 line on the Seatalk bus. That cannot support actually 
running the drive motor.

 

Joe

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Larry via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 09:39
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Larry 
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

 

I am in the middle of troubleshooting my auto pilot, but I believe it is a lost 
cause. The boat is relatively new to me. I have owned it just two seasons. I 
spent the first season just taking her out occasionally and going through her, 
cleaning, repairing and replacing items that did not meet my satisfaction. 

This season I took her out and enjoyed the season.  I have always left the 
st4000 in standby and it seemed to work fine. Then I decided to check out the 
st4000 out completely and ran into errors. It appears to be fine at first in 
the Auto mode, until I try to actually use it. It does not actually do anything 
and within 5 min the display will read “low Battery” and occasionally “no 
Data”.  I checked the voltage to the Unit and it is good. I know I have a 
little more work to do. Like actually check the drive unit and see if it works 
at all. I can purchase a control head for 500 dollars on eBay. But I need to 
determine if anything else is bad first.

 

Has anyone else replace the auto pilot system on their CnC and if so with what.

 

Larry

1986 CnC 38-ft MKIII

Freeland, WA

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

It's a little bit of a different angle here but I'm getting closer and
closer to an OpenPlotter install.  I've been assembling and burning in the
system for about a year now.  For me I've concluded that I want a below
decks system that handles all of the "heavy lifting" and runs headless to
reduce power consumption.  I'll be able to RDC/VNC in via WIFI from any
device on board.  Since the heavy lifting is done on the OpenPlotter, the
remote hardware (cell phone, laptop, ipad) won't need special
software/hardware or a lot of processing power.  The really cool part is
that any device that connects remotely will be able to create
routes/waypoints, review the track, and see all the instrument data.  As it
is now a tactician needs to work over/through the steering wheel while the
helmsman is driving.  With the new system the tactician can use a cell
phone/tablet while moving freely about the boat (navstation, dodger, helm,
bow) and control the plotter which is also being controlled and displayed
at the helm.  Since simple remote desktop software and TCP/IP is being
used, If one device is destroyed or the batteries die then any other device
is capable of immediately replacing it and upgrades are just as
non-invasive.  I plan on having an older laptop at the navstation which
will act as the normal control head with full sized screen and keyboard.
The laptop is a bit power hungry but will sleep 95% of the time.

Admittedly, its not a perfect system.  There are some clunky things about
remote desktop and interfacing a mouse/keyboard on a touchscreen device.
Additionally a couple of factors affect the response time of the remote
desktop connection.  I expect that these weaknesses will be overcome in the
next few years.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Nov 1, 2016, 10:23 AM Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

> With some $250 Chromebooks already supporting android apps, and the
> upcoming merging of ChromeOS and AndroidOS into AnromedaOS, I’m sure we’ll
> see Chromebooks running Navionics plus a plethora of other marine related
> apps real soon.   I think the the big issue right now is that most
> Chromebooks don’t have GPS but I have read online that this is about to
> change with the release of AnromedaOS as android app will drive hardware
> updates on new Chromebooks.
>
> I’m not about to give up my chart plotter (big fan my of Raymarine e7d),
> but for planning, toying around, and even viewing and controlling the chart
> plotter remotely (i.e. RayViiew, RayControl, & RayRemote), the addition of
> a low priced Chromebook is looking like it will make a good addition.
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tanks

[Allen Miles via CnC-List]

Is your tank shaped to fit the hull (like on my 30-2) or just rectangular?
If is shaped to fit an overflow pan that follows the hull shape I have a
recommendation.

Allen Miles
Hampton, VA

On Wed, Oct 26, 2016 at 7:20 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a leaky aluminum diesel tank on Penniless, my 30-1. I recall a
> thread about sources, but it like a bunch of other stuff went bye-bye when
> my hard drive failed.
>
>
>
> Any good sources?
>
>
>
> Thanks, Gary
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fuel tanks

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Nope, it is just a box. Sits on a piece of plywood. The major issue is the 
current tank has a filler fitting which is welded to the tank and is a 90 
degree elbow. So the filler hose goes out to the side. So far, the replacement 
tanks I have seen that are roughly the same size have vertical fillers which 
stick up nearly three inches, and I don’t have that much room. I have not found 
an elbow which I could put on one of these fillers to get the 90 degrees.

 

As I don’t motor long distances (or go long distances, period) I will probably 
go to a smaller tank which will fit on the shelf. If I decide to cruise, the 
storage on the 30-1 is very large and I could take an extra 5 or 10 gallons 
without any problem. Right now, we only use about 10 galloons of fuel a year, 
so that is not an issue.

 

Thanks. Gary 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Allen Miles 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 1, 2016 11:05 AM
To: CNC 
Cc: Allen Miles 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tanks

 

Is your tank shaped to fit the hull (like on my 30-2) or just rectangular?

If is shaped to fit an overflow pan that follows the hull shape I have a 
recommendation.

Allen Miles

Hampton, VA

 

On Wed, Oct 26, 2016 at 7:20 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have a leaky aluminum diesel tank on Penniless, my 30-1. I recall a thread 
about sources, but it like a bunch of other stuff went bye-bye when my hard 
drive failed.

 

Any good sources?

 

Thanks, Gary

 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Force on the midship cleat

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Mine's taken a lot of abuse and held fine on the 8000 lb 30-1

Nate

On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 7:49 AM, Larry via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have the folding toe rail cleat at midship, port and starboard and love
> it.
>
>
>
> Larry
>
> 1986 CnC 38 mkIII
>
> Freeland Wa
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jeremy
> Ralph via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, October 31, 2016 7:44 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jeremy Ralph
> *Subject:* Stus-List Force on the midship cleat
>
>
>
> I'm keen on these toe rail midship cleats that CnCers have been
> recommending and thinking of ordering some:
>
>
>
> http://www.csjohnson.com/store/index.php?main_page=
> product_info&products_id=23
>
>
>
> They're rated for a load of 2,000lb.  Assuming my 10,000 displacement C&C
> is on a nylon spring line (with rubber snubbers) tied to this in a 40kn
> wind, will the cleat hold?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>   Jeremy
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Almost all autopilots supply 12 volts to turn the boat one way and 12 volts 
with polarity reversed to turn the boat the other way.
*Specific to Autohelm/Raymarine wheel drive autopilots*, they have made some 
modifications to the wheel drive over the years, but the computer does not care 
about them. They are all about the same amperage and all use 2 wires. I would 
not go looking for an original AH 4000 unit at this point unless you find one 
very cheap. They are really old by now and mine has issues with the gaskets and 
connections I have to mess with every so often. They are close to 30 years old 
now in 2016.
If your drive unit is fine, you can use the old AH4000 computer, an ST4000, or 
the newer Raymarine wheelpilot computers. I would not try and use some other 
random kind of autopilot computer. The ones designed for the wheel drives have 
– IIRC – current limiting and they “know” there isn’t always a sensor to keep 
it from bumping up against the rudder stop.
Honestly the new ones have so much more capability I would be very tempted to 
get one. I am thinking about it while I fix my 1980s version for the 20th time 
or so….
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Larry via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 10:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Larry 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

Joe
What I believe you are stating is, all units output on two wires to control a 
drive unit, like the new electrical rotary drive unit. It is all a function of 
dc voltage to control the direction of turn. Just as long as the voltage out is 
the correct voltage and amperage any unit should be able to turn. But then 
there is the matter of compass input, rudder input and etc.

I will check into the AH4000.  The ST4000 is a complete unit in itself. I 
understand they are not all that water tight and are prone to corrosion.
There is also a bulletin from Raymarine that suggest soldering a diode across 
two point.
I used to electronics in the Military and including miniature repair 
(component). I no longer have the eyes, steady hands or tools to do that. I may 
just take the unit to an electronic repair shop and have them look at it. 
Assuming all else is functioning as designed.
Thanks
Larry

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 7:31 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

If the drive part of your autopilot is good, it will work fine with the older 
AH4000 as well as the newest Raymarine units. The drive has changed color and 
detail a bit since the 80s, but they all work the same. One motor that turns 
one way or the other ;)

Joe
Coquina
Original AH4000 from 1988 or so


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 10:09
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

The drive is a 12 volt motor with two wires. Connect it directly to 12 volts 
and the helm turns one way. Reverse the wires and it turns the other way.
Do that first and also REALLY check the power supply. I have gone nuts with bad 
connections that dropped the voltage when the drive motor turns and even worse, 
you can have an issue where the main power connection is bad and the autopilot 
is running off the +12 line on the Seatalk bus. That cannot support actually 
running the drive motor.

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Larry via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 09:39
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Larry mailto:ladoug...@comcast.net>>
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 AutoHelm

I am in the middle of troubleshooting my auto pilot, but I believe it is a lost 
cause. The boat is relatively new to me. I have owned it just two seasons. I 
spent the first season just taking her out occasionally and going through her, 
cleaning, repairing and replacing items that did not meet my satisfaction.
This season I took her out and enjoyed the season.  I have always left the 
st4000 in standby and it seemed to work fine. Then I decided to check out the 
st4000 out completely and ran into errors. It appears to be fine at first in 
the Auto mode, until I try to actually use it. It does not actually do anything 
and within 5 min the display will read “low Battery” and occasionally “no 
Data”.  I checked the voltage to the Unit and it is good. I know I have a 
little more work to do. Like actually check the drive unit and see if it works 
at all. I can purchase a control head for 500 dollars on eBay. But I need to 
determine if anything else is bad first.

Has anyone else replace the auto pilot system on their CnC and if so with what.

Larry
19

Stus-List Cockpit Grating Question

[Steve Staten via CnC-List]

Good Morning, Everyone. I’m not a sailor but I own a boat and impersonate a 
sailor on rare occasions. I have a problem with my wooden cockpit grating. If 
it has a nautical name, I’m unaware. A few of the runners that keep the grating 
up and out of the water have come loose. They were glued on so I used Elmer’s 
Wood Glue to re-glue them, thinking that would be the end of the matter. After 
a half-hour of actual use, I was a wiser, sadder man. Is there a better glue 
that you can recommend? I would surely appreciate it.

Steve Staten
“C’est La Vie”
26’ C&C
Langley, OK, USA
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Cockpit Grating Question

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Epoxy


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Staten 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 12:15
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Staten 
Subject: Stus-List Cockpit Grating Question

Good Morning, Everyone. I’m not a sailor but I own a boat and impersonate a 
sailor on rare occasions. I have a problem with my wooden cockpit grating. If 
it has a nautical name, I’m unaware. A few of the runners that keep the grating 
up and out of the water have come loose. They were glued on so I used Elmer’s 
Wood Glue to re-glue them, thinking that would be the end of the matter. After 
a half-hour of actual use, I was a wiser, sadder man. Is there a better glue 
that you can recommend? I would surely appreciate it.

Steve Staten
“C’est La Vie”
26’ C&C
Langley, OK, USA
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Re: Stus-List Cockpit Grating Question

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Titebond III is water based for easy cleanup, and is waterproof when 
cured. You could also use epoxy as long as the joint will not be exposed 
to sunlight.


Bill Bina



On 11/1/2016 12:14 PM, Steve Staten via CnC-List wrote:


Good Morning, Everyone. I’m not a sailor but I own a boat and 
impersonate a sailor on rare occasions. I have a problem with my 
wooden cockpit grating. If it has a nautical name, I’m unaware. A few 
of the runners that keep the grating up and out of the water have come 
loose. They were glued on so I used Elmer’s Wood Glue to re-glue them, 
thinking that would be the end of the matter. After a half-hour of 
actual use, I was a wiser, sadder man. Is there a better glue that you 
can recommend? I would surely appreciate it.


Steve Staten

“C’est La Vie”

26’ C&C

Langley, OK, USA



.
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Stus-List Cockpit grating

[Colin Binkley via CnC-List]

Ahoy Steve, I have had very good results with Titebond III, waterproof exterior 
glue. Rough up surface to get rid of old glue and clamp. Then if able screw 
with flat head brass or stainless screws. Screwed and glued. 
  I would like to encourage you to register your boat and yourself at the photo 
album. Way to few boats there.  Every body should. 
Colin Binkley
71 C&C 40C #3
US 547080
5th day on the hard
Western Lake Erie

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Cockpit Grating Question

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  ...and wipe the teak with acetone before you glue to get the oils out of the joint.sam :-)C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, November 1, 2016 10:24 AMTo: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Della Barba, JoeSubject: Re: Stus-List Cockpit Grating Question







Epoxy
 
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Staten via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 12:15
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Staten 
Subject: Stus-List Cockpit Grating Question


 
Good Morning, Everyone. I’m not a sailor but I own a boat and impersonate a sailor on rare occasions. I have a problem with my wooden cockpit grating. If it has a nautical name, I’m unaware. A few of the runners
 that keep the grating up and out of the water have come loose. They were glued on so I used Elmer’s Wood Glue to re-glue them, thinking that would be the end of the matter. After a half-hour of actual use, I was a wiser, sadder man. Is there a better glue
 that you can recommend? I would surely appreciate it.
 
Steve Staten
“C’est La Vie”

26’ C&C
Langley, OK, USA





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Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I took the alternator out of the boat last weekend so I could get it tested.  
Any suggestions on where to take it?  Would a good auto repair shop be able to 
do this, or do I need someone more specialized.  Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT


> On Oct 3, 2016, at 12:07 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If it's rf noise generated by the alternator it may be coming in through your 
> GPS antenna as well as data or power lines.  If it is rf noise you should be 
> able to hear it with a small AM radio held nearby (tune to around 1400 KHz).  
>  I still think your voltage regulator is suspect. When the battery reaches 
> its maximum charge of approximately 14.2 volts, the regulator will then limit 
> the alternator's output. The battery acts as a buffer so that may be what's 
> causing the problem to sometimes not show with the engine on..   If the 
> engine has been off for a while the battery voltage may fall in the 12's and 
> it may take a while for it to overcharge into the 14's where your chart 
> plotter may start to act erratically again.   When you turn off the engine it 
> may take a few minutes for the voltage to drop back into a safe level.   You 
> said you are measuring in the 14 volt range with the engine on.  If it is 
> above 14.2 that would be suspect. Jerry  J7J
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Sent: Mon, Oct 3, 2016 11:08 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem
> 
> You could try something like this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEWMAR-PC-25-Noise-Filter-Power-Conditioner-25-amps-/231859240381?hash=item35fbe33dbd:g:Zn0AAOSwPc9W0ftz&vxp=mtr
>  
> Oscilloscope (scope) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscilloscope FYI
> If you know any ham radio operators, they probably know where to find one to 
> borrow.
>  
> Your plotter also could just be nuts ;)
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
> Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, October 03, 2016 09:56
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem
>  
> Hi Joe and thanks for your input.  Some answers below.
>  
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Oct 3, 2016, at 9:11 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Some things to try:
> 1.   Run the plotter off its own battery. Little 6 ah AGM batteries are 
> cheap enough if you don’t have a spare battery sitting around.
> Given the intermittent nature of the problem, this would be challenging to do 
> long enough to be definitive.  I am also not sure it will identify the source 
> of the problem since it appears to be the power (see below).
> 
> 2.   Put a scope on the DC bus to see what, if any, AC/noise is on the 
> line. Include an engine start with this.
> I don’t have a scope and have not used one.  What kind of device would you do 
> this with?
> 
> 3.   Disconnect the NMEA interconnection and see what happens.
> As I said, when this happened last week, the NMEA input was disconnected from 
> the chart plotter, so this seems to be coming from the power connection.  
> What is frustrating is that yesterday, I started the engine twice, once 
> before and once after the race, and the chart plotter behaved perfectly and 
> never beeped once.  Nothing was obviously different??
>  
>  
>  
> 4.   Check the NMEA connection for configuration. Does the plotter send 
> and receive data or just send? No need to have the NMEA input line connected 
> if there is no data headed that way. 
> 5.   Put a laptop on the NMEA connection or run the diagnostic window on 
> the plotter, if it has one, and read the raw NMEA stream to see if it is 
> getting some odd data or any data at all if it should not be.
> 6.   Put ferrites on all incoming wiring.
> 7.   Check for ground loops and NMEA isolation*
> *
> This one is a bit tricky. First off, make sure the power supply and ground 
> connections are at exactly the same place as your other electronics. Ground 
> loops are bit complicated to explain and hard to find, but the short version 
> is this step will eliminate some of them. Second is check with the 
> manufacturer to see if your plotter NMEA connections are true marine standard 
> opto-isolated. It is very possible to use direct wiring to NMEA data and not 
> isolate it, my laptop/plotter does just that, but optical isolation prevents 
> various stray voltage and ground issues from messing up the data.  Equipment 
> is fairly resilient now, but back in the day an engine start could generate 
> noise that would totally screw up electronics. Even now I will start an 
> airplane with all radios and nav equipment off and then turn it on. I once 
> was delivering an airplane that had a screwy alternator I had to switch off 
> to use the radios and nav gear and then switch back on when the battery got 
> low.
> BTW – my boat is w

Stus-List Cockpit grating

[Colin Binkley via CnC-List]

Sam is absolutely correct! Correctly counter sink the correct screw in a pre 
drilled hole from the bottom up would perhaps be a way. Tightbond III is at any 
good hardware store. Avg pricing

Colin Binkley 
SV LindseyLayne

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Last sail

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  


Mike,
Did you sail out from SMSC towards Peggy's cove, then turn and
  head back to Shining Waters?
I only saw one other boat in the Bay (although near the end I did
  see another sail in the distance).  It must have been you --
  passed me right after I blew out the mainsheet shackle.  I arrived
  at 4:30.
Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2016-10-31 4:12 PM, mike amirault
  via CnC-List wrote:


  

  Had my last sail yesterday too, from SMSC to Shining
Waters.  Not sure if I was the boat that passed you or not,
I do have the original C&C emblem and sail # 73. We
arrived approx 4pm.
   
  Mike Amirault
  C&C33ii  sail # 73 Lovely Cruise
  SMSC

  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Cockpit grating: other uses?

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 The cockpit grate question reminds me: I have a cockpit grate from a boat 
owned long ago, its about 6 ft long and 18-20 inches wide, built from teak; but 
it sits in the garage and I've always thought it might make a nice coffee table 
or something similar; any ideas? suggestions? What Would I use for the base?  
(My wife would appreciate it being out of the garage too!) 

 


Richard
S/V Bushmark4 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596.5


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Colin Binkley via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Colin Binkley 
Sent: Tue, Nov 1, 2016 3:25 pm
Subject: Stus-List Cockpit grating

Sam is absolutely correct! Correctly counter sink the correct screw in a pre 
drilled hole from the bottom up would perhaps be a way. Tightbond III is at any 
good hardware store. Avg pricing

Colin Binkley 
SV LindseyLayne

Sent from my iPhone
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___

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Re: Stus-List Cockpit grating: other uses?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Get  an old lobster pot as a base and a piece of glass for the man-cave.
Or it might fit my cockpit if you want to get rid of it.

Joel

On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 4:50 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The cockpit grate question reminds me: I have a cockpit grate from a boat
> owned long ago, its about 6 ft long and 18-20 inches wide, built from teak;
> but it sits in the garage and I've always thought it might make a nice
> coffee table or something similar; any ideas? suggestions? What Would I use
> for the base?  (My wife would appreciate it being out of the garage too!)
>
> Richard
> S/V Bushmark4 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596.5
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Colin Binkley via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Colin Binkley 
> Sent: Tue, Nov 1, 2016 3:25 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Cockpit grating
>
> Sam is absolutely correct! Correctly counter sink the correct screw in a
> pre drilled hole from the bottom up would perhaps be a way. Tightbond III
> is at any good hardware store. Avg pricing
>
> Colin Binkley
> SV LindseyLayne
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks to everyone for all for the responses.  And yes, this is not a
replacement for my dedicated Garmin plotter, but rather a
supplemental/multi-use unit.  I'm leaning towards buying an inexpensive
Android tablet like Acer or the Dell Marek runs... I just can't stomach
shelling out the cash for another ipad.  Maybe a really solid
military-grade case is in order as well...



Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 02:27:45 +
> From: Marek Dziedzic 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use
> Message-ID:
> 
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I do not believe that a tablet of any kind is a good enough navigation
> instrument (I have a Garmin 720 and I trust it much more (I can see the
> screen in full sunlight without problems, it is completely waterproof and
I
> can operate it with keys (not touch)), but I find that if you want a
tablet
> for anything you are much better off with a low cost ( I don't necessarily
> mean cheap) tablet that you can use as disposable. I had very good success
> with a Dell Venue Pro (Windows), an Acer (also Windows) and an ASUS
Android
> one. I also find that the 7-8 inch tablets are much less prone to
shattering
> problems (they are simply much easier to handle and they have a size that
is
> much better for keeping in one's hand). The cost can be as low as just
> around $100 (8" Android) or around $200 for an 8" Windows. For that money
> you can break 3 and buy the 4th and you just come about to the cost of the
> Surface Pro or worse yet to the cost of a cheap iPad.
>
> None of the generally available tablets is waterproof or even hardened,
so I
> would not use it in the cockpit where it might be subjected to water
damage.
>
>
> If you want a keyboard, you can easily buy a BT keyboard for under $30.
Add
> 410 more an you have a complete system with a carrying case and keyboard.
>
> I have a Surface at work and I don't find the screen any better than 1/4
> price Dell Venue (or even 1/10 price Acer). It is only bigger. True, the
> case is metal, but if you drop it a few times on the ground, the screen
will
> break.
>
> A word of caution: If you buy a Windows tablet, spend more and get a 64 GB
> version (or bigger). With 32 GB you will have a major juggling task if you
> need to make a major system upgrade. This unfortunately means that the
> majority of tablets that are available on sale are out.
>
> Marek
> 2015 8" Dell Venue Pro (Win 10)
> 2012 7" Asus (Android)
> 2014 8" Acer Iconia (Android)
> Ottawa, ON
>
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Stus-List OpenPlotter

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Hey folks,

The recent discussion about tablets as chart-plotters got me motivated to
share with y'all the progress I've made putting my system together.  I have
to deconstruct my existing (and quite functional) NMEA 0183 network in
order to install this system so I've been waiting until the off season.
I've already purchased the newest version of Raspberry Pi but am still
waiting for the newest UPSpico.  Once it arrives I'll be swapping it in.  I
was able to get it to all fit on a board 16"x11" and will mount the board
behind the navstation consol.  I arranged it so that the install will
simply require connecting the 12V and the NMEA 0183 inputs.  Here's a
picture of the arrangement.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yUUpXUENSS2JDSGc

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
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Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Josh,
just googled Openplotter, now that's way cool.   Powered brain and generic
wireless tablet repeaters is the way to go.
I have a neighbour at the marina, cool guy, owns an IT outsource company,
works remotely and has a nav-lab on his boat - raspberry pi tinkerer also,
currently for a weather station and old school video games IIRC.  He kinda
primed the pump for me on the whole open source thing (OpenCPN/Navigatrix)
and prodded me away from analog-instrument-think when approaching this
stuff, after I had spent some cash on Raymarine/STng unfortunately.
Gonna get my n2k network sorted in a familiar OS before exploring something
like linux or Openplotter.   Looks like openplotter does not yet support
nmea2000.
I have heard a logitech trackball makes a good interface at the nav station.
Please post updates as you progress!

Dave



Message: 1
Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2016 14:52:10 +
From: Josh Muckley 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

It's a little bit of a different angle here but I'm getting closer and
closer to an OpenPlotter install.  I've been assembling and burning in the
system for about a year now.  For me I've concluded that I want a below
decks system that handles all of the "heavy lifting" and runs headless to
reduce power consumption.  I'll be able to RDC/VNC in via WIFI from any
device on board.  Since the heavy lifting is done on the OpenPlotter, the
remote hardware (cell phone, laptop, ipad) won't need special
software/hardware or a lot of processing power.  The really cool part is
that any device that connects remotely will be able to create
routes/waypoints, review the track, and see all the instrument data.  As it
is now a tactician needs to work over/through the steering wheel while the
helmsman is driving.  With the new system the tactician can use a cell
phone/tablet while moving freely about the boat (navstation, dodger, helm,
bow) and control the plotter which is also being controlled and displayed
at the helm.  Since simple remote desktop software and TCP/IP is being
used, If one device is destroyed or the batteries die then any other device
is capable of immediately replacing it and upgrades are just as
non-invasive.  I plan on having an older laptop at the navstation which
will act as the normal control head with full sized screen and keyboard.
The laptop is a bit power hungry but will sleep 95% of the time.

Admittedly, its not a perfect system.  There are some clunky things about
remote desktop and interfacing a mouse/keyboard on a touchscreen device.
Additionally a couple of factors affect the response time of the remote
desktop connection.  I expect that these weaknesses will be overcome in the
next few years.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List Force on the midship cleat

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

FWIW, I installed midship cleats 12 years ago.  Think I paid $25 for 4 hole 
Schaefer stainless 8 inch.  I added big and thick aluminum backing plates under 
the deck.


http://www.shopsoundboatworks.com/sc6alcl.html?cmp=googleproducts&kw=sc6alcl&gclid=CO6i-JD-iNACFRdbhgodCUAFjQ
 
http://www.shopsoundboatworks.com/sc6alcl.html?cmp=googleproducts&kw=sc6alcl&gclid=CO6i-JD-iNACFRdbhgodCUAFjQ


If I did it again, I'd probably install fairleads instead: Better on your toes 
and doesn't snag lines.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/harken--grand-prix-big-boat-jib-lead--16023681?cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-Shopping_PLAs-_-16023681&adpos=1o3&creative=108421558804&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CLLqj9b-iNACFcJZhgodPP4GGg



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md




> On October 31, 2016 at 10:44 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm keen on these toe rail midship cleats that CnCers have been 
> recommending and thinking of ordering some:
> 
> 
> http://www.csjohnson.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23
>  
> http://www.csjohnson.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23
> 
> They're rated for a load of 2,000lb.  Assuming my 10,000 displacement C&C 
> is on a nylon spring line (with rubber snubbers) tied to this in a 40kn wind, 
> will the cleat hold?
> 
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
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Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Usually, there is a shop that specializes in alternator and starter repairs for 
cars somewhere nearby.  Google that for the best price.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On November 1, 2016 at 2:26 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I took the alternator out of the boat last weekend so I could get it 
> tested.  Any suggestions on where to take it?  Would a good auto repair shop 
> be able to do this, or do I need someone more specialized.  Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> > > On Oct 3, 2016, at 12:07 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > If it's rf noise generated by the alternator it may be coming in 
> > through your GPS antenna as well as data or power lines.  If it is rf noise 
> > you should be able to hear it with a small AM radio held nearby (tune to 
> > around 1400 KHz).   I still think your voltage regulator is suspect. When 
> > the battery reaches its maximum charge of approximately 14.2 volts, the 
> > regulator will then limit the alternator's output. The battery acts as a 
> > buffer so that may be what's causing the problem to sometimes not show with 
> > the engine on..   If the engine has been off for a while the battery 
> > voltage may fall in the 12's and it may take a while for it to overcharge 
> > into the 14's where your chart plotter may start to act erratically again.  
> >  When you turn off the engine it may take a few minutes for the voltage to 
> > drop back into a safe level.   You said you are measuring in the 14 volt 
> > range with the engine on.  If it is above 14.2 that would be suspect. Jerry 
> >  J7J
> > 
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> > Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> > Sent: Mon, Oct 3, 2016 11:08 am
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem
> > 
> > You could try something like this:
> > 
> > http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEWMAR-PC-25-Noise-Filter-Power-Conditioner-25-amps-/231859240381?hash=item35fbe33dbd:g:Zn0AAOSwPc9W0ftz&vxp=mtr
> >  
> > Oscilloscope (scope) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscilloscope FYI
> > If you know any ham radio operators, they probably know where to 
> > find one to borrow.
> >  
> > Your plotter also could just be nuts ;)
> > Joe
> > Coquina
> >  
> >  
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> > David Knecht via CnC-List
> > Sent: Monday, October 03, 2016 09:56
> > To: CnC CnC discussion list
> > Cc: David Knecht
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem
> >  
> > Hi Joe and thanks for your input.  Some answers below.
> >  
> > Aries
> > 1990 C&C 34+
> > New London, CT
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > On Oct 3, 2016, at 9:11 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > Some things to try:
> > 1.   Run the plotter off its own battery. Little 6 ah AGM 
> > batteries are cheap enough if you don’t have a spare battery sitting around.
> > Given the intermittent nature of the problem, this would be 
> > challenging to do long enough to be definitive.  I am also not sure it will 
> > identify the source of the problem since it appears to be the power (see 
> > below).
> > 
> > 2.   Put a scope on the DC bus to see what, if any, AC/noise is 
> > on the line. Include an engine start with this.
> > I don’t have a scope and have not used one.  What kind of device 
> > would you do this with?
> > 
> > 3.   Disconnect the NMEA interconnection and see what happens.
> > As I said, when this happened last week, the NMEA input was 
> > disconnected from the chart plotter, so this seems to be coming from the 
> > power connection.  What is frustrating is that yesterday, I started the 
> > engine twice, once before and once after the race, and the chart plotter 
> > behaved perfectly and never beeped once.  Nothing was obviously 
> > different??
> >  
> >  
> >  
> > 4.   Check the NMEA connection for configuration. Does the 
> > plotter send and receive data or just send? No need to have the NMEA input 
> > line connected if there is no data headed that way. 
> > 5.   Put a laptop on the NMEA connection or run the diagnostic 
> > window on the plotter, if it has one, and read the raw NMEA stream to see 
> > if it is getting some odd data or any data at all if it should not be.
> > 6.   Put ferrites on all incoming wiring.
> > 7.   Check for ground loops and NMEA isolation*
> > *
> > This one is a bit tricky. First off, make sure the power supply and 
> > ground connectio

Re: Stus-List Radar mount

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Saw some nice pole installs on newer boats using a SS bracket that has a rubber 
ball.  The radar pole sits on the ball and needs minimal support by the stern 
rail.  Two guys used these to add an outboard engine davit with purchase.  
Looked like Edson fittings.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md



> On November 1, 2016 at 10:10 AM "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Anyone ever hoisted a mount up attached to the spinnaker pole track???
> 
> J
> 
> Coquina
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Frederick G Street via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 09:26
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frederick G Street 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Radar mount
> 
>  
> 
> Mike - for something removable and rarely used, you may want to consider 
> self-fabricating a stern pole.  It’s a bit of work, but I’d suggest the type 
> that drops into a fiberglass tube glassed in and supported with gussets below 
> the stern deck.  If you design and install it well, you can get away with 
> minimal lateral support above the deck, and you could arrange things so that 
> you just pull the tube, disconnect the radar and cap the hole when you’re not 
> using it.  The tube below-deck tube should extend as far down into the hull 
> as you can get it, to provide support for the stern pole.
> 
>  
> 
> Here’s a guy who did a similar job on his Tartan: 
> http://www.oceannavigator.com/January-February-2003/Installing-a-radar-set-on-an-older-vessel/
> 
>  
> 
> You wouldn’t need to use Edson (or ScanStrut, or…) hardware for the pole 
> itself; get aluminum tubing of the correct diameter to mate with your top 
> plate of choice, and have it powder-coated.  That’ll save some $$$.
> 
>  
> 
> — Fred
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>  
> 
> > > 
> > On Oct 31, 2016, at 1:40 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > A question to this list about mounting a radar
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I recently stumbled into a situation where a 5 year old Garmin 
> > radome that was the exact correct model for our Garmin GPSMAP 740 
> > chartplotter became available for just under $500.  Given this great price 
> > and our recent night trip up the coast in heavy fog we decided we should 
> > snatch this up.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > We like to be able to do a bit of cruising on our boat but we also 
> > like to do some racing.  As with all the other cruisy stuff (dodger, 
> > bimini, etc) I like the option of being able to install it only for a 
> > cruise and leave it home the rest of the time.  I do not wish to have the 
> > radome mounted on the mast for this reason (and the wear and other issues 
> > on the jib).  Was thinking of either a backstay mounted solution or a 
> > removable radar pole at the stern.  Something like the Scanstrut SC100 
> > series.  The issue I have found is that the backstay mount and removable 
> > pole mounts are extremely expensive and we are not even certain how much we 
> > will use this. 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Any advice from others on this list or knowledge of a used pole or 
> > perhaps info on how to manufacture my own?
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Thanks
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Mike
> > 
> > Persistence
> > 
> > HAlifax
> > 
> > > 
>  
> 


 

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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
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Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Openplotter does have provisions for NMEA-2000

Josh

On Nov 1, 2016 8:43 PM, "Dave S via CnC-List"  wrote:

> Josh,
> just googled Openplotter, now that's way cool.   Powered brain and generic
> wireless tablet repeaters is the way to go.
> I have a neighbour at the marina, cool guy, owns an IT outsource company,
> works remotely and has a nav-lab on his boat - raspberry pi tinkerer also,
> currently for a weather station and old school video games IIRC.  He kinda
> primed the pump for me on the whole open source thing (OpenCPN/Navigatrix)
> and prodded me away from analog-instrument-think when approaching this
> stuff, after I had spent some cash on Raymarine/STng unfortunately.
> Gonna get my n2k network sorted in a familiar OS before exploring
> something like linux or Openplotter.   Looks like openplotter does not yet
> support nmea2000.
> I have heard a logitech trackball makes a good interface at the nav
> station.
> Please post updates as you progress!
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2016 14:52:10 +
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use
> Message-ID:
>  gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> It's a little bit of a different angle here but I'm getting closer and
> closer to an OpenPlotter install.  I've been assembling and burning in the
> system for about a year now.  For me I've concluded that I want a below
> decks system that handles all of the "heavy lifting" and runs headless to
> reduce power consumption.  I'll be able to RDC/VNC in via WIFI from any
> device on board.  Since the heavy lifting is done on the OpenPlotter, the
> remote hardware (cell phone, laptop, ipad) won't need special
> software/hardware or a lot of processing power.  The really cool part is
> that any device that connects remotely will be able to create
> routes/waypoints, review the track, and see all the instrument data.  As it
> is now a tactician needs to work over/through the steering wheel while the
> helmsman is driving.  With the new system the tactician can use a cell
> phone/tablet while moving freely about the boat (navstation, dodger, helm,
> bow) and control the plotter which is also being controlled and displayed
> at the helm.  Since simple remote desktop software and TCP/IP is being
> used, If one device is destroyed or the batteries die then any other device
> is capable of immediately replacing it and upgrades are just as
> non-invasive.  I plan on having an older laptop at the navstation which
> will act as the normal control head with full sized screen and keyboard.
> The laptop is a bit power hungry but will sleep 95% of the time.
>
> Admittedly, its not a perfect system.  There are some clunky things about
> remote desktop and interfacing a mouse/keyboard on a touchscreen device.
> Additionally a couple of factors affect the response time of the remote
> desktop connection.  I expect that these weaknesses will be overcome in the
> next few years.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Google that for the best rating. I was hosed by one shop, treated like a
king by another. The good shop was cheaper, but I wouldn't count on it.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 1 November 2016 at 19:24, Chuck S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Usually, there is a shop that specializes in alternator and starter
> repairs for cars somewhere nearby.  Google that for the best price.
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> On November 1, 2016 at 2:26 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I took the alternator out of the boat last weekend so I could get it
> tested.  Any suggestions on where to take it?  Would a good auto repair
> shop be able to do this, or do I need someone more specialized.  Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Oct 3, 2016, at 12:07 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> If it's rf noise generated by the alternator it may be coming in through
> your GPS antenna as well as data or power lines.  If it is rf noise
> you should be able to hear it with a small AM radio held nearby (tune to
> around 1400 KHz).   I still think your voltage regulator is suspect. When
> the battery reaches its maximum charge of approximately 14.2 volts, the
> regulator will then limit the alternator's output. The battery acts as a
> buffer so that may be what's causing the problem to sometimes not show with
> the engine on..   If the engine has been off for a while the
> battery voltage may fall in the 12's and it may take a while for it to
> overcharge into the 14's where your chart plotter may start to act
> erratically again.   When you turn off the engine it may take a few minutes
> for the voltage to drop back into a safe level.   You said you are
> measuring in the 14 volt range with the engine on.  If it is above 14.2
> that would be suspect. Jerry  J7J
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Sent: Mon, Oct 3, 2016 11:08 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem
>
> You could try something like this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEWMAR-PC-25-Noise-Filter-
> Power-Conditioner-25-amps-/231859240381?hash=item35fbe33dbd:g:
> Zn0AAOSwPc9W0ftz&vxp=mtr
>
> Oscilloscope (scope) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscilloscope FYI
> If you know any ham radio operators, they probably know where to find one
> to borrow.
>
> Your plotter also could just be nuts ;)
> Joe
> Coquina
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
> Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, October 03, 2016 09:56
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem
>
> Hi Joe and thanks for your input.  Some answers below.
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
>
> On Oct 3, 2016, at 9:11 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Some things to try:
> 1.   Run the plotter off its own battery. Little 6 ah AGM batteries
> are cheap enough if you don’t have a spare battery sitting around.
> Given the intermittent nature of the problem, this would be challenging to
> do long enough to be definitive.  I am also not sure it will identify the
> source of the problem since it appears to be the power (see below).
>
> 2.   Put a scope on the DC bus to see what, if any, AC/noise is on the
> line. Include an engine start with this.
> I don’t have a scope and have not used one.  What kind of device would you
> do this with?
>
> 3.   Disconnect the NMEA interconnection and see what happens.
> As I said, when this happened last week, the NMEA input was disconnected
> from the chart plotter, so this seems to be coming from the power
> connection.  What is frustrating is that yesterday, I started the engine
> twice, once before and once after the race, and the chart plotter behaved
> perfectly and never beeped once.  Nothing was obviously different??
>
>
>
> 4.   Check the NMEA connection for configuration. Does the plotter
> send and receive data or just send? No need to have the NMEA input line
> connected if there is no data headed that way.
> 5.   Put a laptop on the NMEA connection or run the diagnostic window
> on the plotter, if it has one, and read the raw NMEA stream to see if it is
> getting some odd data or any data at all if it should not be.
> 6.   Put ferrites on all incoming wiring.
> 7.   Check for ground loops and NMEA isolation*
> *
> This one is a bit tricky. First off, make sure the power supply and ground
> connections are at exactly the same place as your other electronics. Ground
> loops are bit complicated to explain and hard to find, but the short
> version is this step will eliminate some of them. Second is check with the
> manufacturer to see if your plotter NMEA connections are true marine
> standard opto-isolated. It is very possible to use direct wiring to NMEA
> data and not isol