Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Nothing wrong with Paneltronics, I just could never find them on FleaBay. 
BlueSeas has *lighted* labels that I really like. I can’t recall if the others 
do.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul Wyand 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 1:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Wyand 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

 

I used Paneltronics, at least equal quality to Blue Seas. Customer service was 
excellent too, and will make up a custom panel as well for little extra cost. I 
asked a few questions before the panel was delivered and they gave me very 
accurate an rapid answers. I had such good service I will use them from now on. 
I am sure they use the same breakers as Blue Seas as I doubt either one makes 
there own. Panel thickness was very good, and wiring was neatly run. 

 

On Fri, Feb 17, 2017 at 1:23 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Mathew



Thanks,


Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com  
(416) 203-9858  


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 07:51:50 -0500
From: "Matthew L. Wolford"  >
To:  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions
Message-ID: <45ACD1AB55D6494CBCA1FF12A30A99B9@InternetPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

In response to one of your queries below: I like circuit breakers for both AC 
and DC; I like Blue Sea Systems; and I do not like panels that combine AC and 
DC.  I replaced the original fuse panel on my 34 with two BSS DC circuit 
breaker panels (one relatively large, and the second because I needed more 
breakers).  To get them to fit in the old fuse panel configuration, I had a 
fabricating shop make an aluminum frame the same size as the old panel (about 
$50), with cut-outs for installing the BSS panels.  I then sent the aluminum 
frame to BSS, and they painted or powder-coated it (or whatever they do) so 
that it matched their panels ? and they did this for free because I was using 
their circuit breaker panels.  I also replaced the clunky old AC breaker box 
with a small BSS circuit breaker with polarity indicator.  I also installed a 
BSS switch that keeps the house and engine batteries separate but can cross 
connect in the event of a problem with the engine battery.  Great sys!
 tem, which I?m considering for my ?new? boat (a 42).

From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 1:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Alex Giannelia
Subject: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

So, the old girl came off the hard, has a new electric motor and is now going 
to get new cabin wiring.



I have been reading about bonding, grounding, panels, etc. and my head is 
spinning, so thought I ?d turn to the list for some collective wisdom



Here?s a few:



What sort of panels do people recommend?  The spread is for a couple hundred 
bucks for a fuse panel to well over a grand for a combined AC/DC Blue Seas baby.



I am removing the old combined AC/DC panel above the companionway with one 6 
gang panel in the cockpit and a 12 position plus 3 AC at the Nav Station.



SHORE POWER



Ok, so who is using an isolation transformer?



Do you connect the DC Negative at the battery with the AC ground on your 
incoming?



BONDING/LIGHTNING PROTECTION



Who connects all the rig, prop shaft and keel in one electrical bundle also 
connected with battery ground?  Has anyone ever considered bonding the aluminum 
toe rails?



RFI shielding



What do you guys do to reduce RFI cross talk?



That?s it for now.



This will be a simple boat, VHF, GPS Simrad WP30 Wheelpilot and Standard 
Instruments.  The power supply for the electric motor was done already by a 
marine electrical guy and works extremely well.



Suggestions?



Let ?er roll!




Alex



Alex Giannelia

C 35-II (1974) no 282

a...@airsensing.com  



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

[Neil Schiller via CnC-List]

I completely rewired my Redwing 35 in 2006.  This link shows what I 
changed from (3rd photo) to the updated installation.  The original 
installation had no AC panel, only a hot tub breaker box.  The new 
installation has separate AC and DC panels.


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0TKNwrWoGJlUEtJMmtZVEJjYTQ

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
"Corsair"
White Lake, Michigan


On 2/17/2017 1:49 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List wrote:


So, the old girl came off the hard, has a new electric motor and is 
now going to get new cabin wiring.


I have been reading about bonding, grounding, panels, etc. and my head 
is spinning, so thought I ‘d turn to the list for some collective wisdom


Here’s a few:

What sort of panels do people recommend? The spread is for a couple 
hundred bucks for a fuse panel to well over a grand for a combined 
AC/DC Blue Seas baby.


I am removing the old combined AC/DC panel above the companionway with 
one 6 gang panel in the cockpit and a 12 position plus 3 AC at the Nav 
Station.


SHORE POWER

Ok, so who is using an isolation transformer?

Do you connect the DC Negative at the battery with the AC ground on 
your incoming?


BONDING/LIGHTNING PROTECTION

Who connects all the rig, prop shaft and keel in one electrical bundle 
also connected with battery ground?  Has anyone ever considered 
bonding the aluminum toe rails?


RFI shielding

What do you guys do to reduce RFI cross talk?

That’s it for now.

This will be a simple boat, VHF, GPS Simrad WP30 Wheelpilot and 
Standard Instruments.  The power supply for the electric motor was 
done already by a marine electrical guy and works extremely well.


Suggestions?

Let ‘er roll!

Alex

Alex Giannelia

C 35-II (1974) no 282

a...@airsensing.com



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

[John Rand via CnC-List]

Hi Alex,

I moved my batteries from under the quarter birth to under the port
settee.  The wires ran from the engine area under the galley sink or aft
along the port side from the bow.  I've used 2 AWG for this.

John
C 35 MkII

On Fri, Feb 17, 2017 at 1:40 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alex — remember that the fuse or breaker protects the *wire*, not the
> device.  A 15-amp breaker will be appropriate for any wire down to 18AWG in
> the engine space.  The only branch circuit devices that need specific fuse
> sizing are things with motors in them (pumps or blowers).
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Feb 17, 2017, at 9:51 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Joe,
>
> That is pretty comprehensive.  I am saving this to my folder where I store
> electrical wisdom.  Did you convert to breakers or kept a fuse based system?
>
> I ask because the standard BS panels are supplied with all 15 A breakers
> which is too much for a lot of my branch circuits, whereas their fuses vary.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
> a...@airsensing.com
> (416) 203-9858
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List draining water heater

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Dave,

If your water tank is 6 gal capacity and you don't drain or push out 
(compressed air) water, you would need more than 6 gal to displace the water 
(more like 10-12). If you are not doing it and if your water heater is still 
functioning, it only means that the temperatures are (were) not low enough to 
freeze whatever is left in the tank. One of the problem with the antifreeze is 
that if it is diluted, its antifreeze property very quickly deteriorate, so you 
don't want to have a diluted AF in your system. The fact that what comes out is 
pink does not mean that it is not diluted.

Since we do have low temperatures (below -20 °C; well below 0 °F), my procedure 
involves draining the water (if you can drain into the bilge, it is easier; 
otherwise you have to pump it out); using the compressed air to "flush" the 
water from the tank (and of course, from all the piping) and then filling the 
system with AF and again pushing the AF out using compressed air. One of the 
best additions that helps me with winterising the system is the water heater 
bypass (two Y valves and a connecting hose); you can get one on Amazon or from 
your local RV dealer. This allows me not to put any AF into the water heater.

One word of caution: as far as I know, if you leave any AF in the water heater 
and you heat it up (e.g. by running the motor); the AF may solidify into a pink 
cotton - it would be pretty impossible to remove it from the water heater.

Marek
1994 C270 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 11:17
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List draining water heater



On Feb 17, 2017, at 10:42 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> wrote:

The water heater has a ~6 gallon capacity.  If you attempt to freeze protect it 
then you would need to flush out the water with glycol and probably end up 
using 3 or 4 gallons in the process.  Glycol isn't cheap and considering that 
you can eliminate the risk of freezing simply by draining, glycol in the water 
heater is a waste of money.

What Josh says makes perfect sense, but now I am really confused.  When I 
winterized the boat, I pumped all the water out of the tanks, then poured 
antifreeze into the tanks and pumped until pink came out the cold and hot lines 
at each faucet.  But it did not take anything like 3-4 gallons.  What am I 
missing?  Dave
Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:image001.png@01D28927.09583030]

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine new plotters and software (No SeaTalkng??)

[Paul E via CnC-List]

Fred,

It looks like these new Raymarine chart plotters do not have a SeaTalkng 
connector.   They do have a deviceNet NMEA2k connection.   Is Raymarine moving 
away from their version of N2K?


Paul

-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2017 14:02:49 -0600
From: Frederick G Street >
To: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" >
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine new plotters and software
Message-ID: <4f3c8010-b82f-4c4c-b6e3-01ced2905...@postaudio.net 
>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Raymarine has announced some new plotter hardware with faster processors, and 
upcoming software updates for existing plotters:

http://www.panbo.com/archives/2017/02/bam_raymarine_axiom_mfds_lighthouse_3_realvision_3d_sonar_flir_m100200_clearcruise.html
 
>

? Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Alex — remember that the fuse or breaker protects the wire, not the device.  A 
15-amp breaker will be appropriate for any wire down to 18AWG in the engine 
space.  The only branch circuit devices that need specific fuse sizing are 
things with motors in them (pumps or blowers).

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Feb 17, 2017, at 9:51 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Joe,
>  
> That is pretty comprehensive.  I am saving this to my folder where I store 
> electrical wisdom.  Did you convert to breakers or kept a fuse based system?
>  
> I ask because the standard BS panels are supplied with all 15 A breakers 
> which is too much for a lot of my branch circuits, whereas their fuses vary.
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> 
> Alex Giannelia
> a...@airsensing.com 
> (416) 203-9858

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

I used Paneltronics, at least equal quality to Blue Seas. Customer service
was excellent too, and will make up a custom panel as well for little extra
cost. I asked a few questions before the panel was delivered and they gave
me very accurate an rapid answers. I had such good service I will use them
from now on. I am sure they use the same breakers as Blue Seas as I doubt
either one makes there own. Panel thickness was very good, and wiring was
neatly run.

On Fri, Feb 17, 2017 at 1:23 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Mathew
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
> a...@airsensing.com
> (416) 203-9858
>
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 07:51:50 -0500
> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions
> Message-ID: <45ACD1AB55D6494CBCA1FF12A30A99B9@InternetPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> In response to one of your queries below: I like circuit breakers for both
> AC and DC; I like Blue Sea Systems; and I do not like panels that combine
> AC and DC.  I replaced the original fuse panel on my 34 with two BSS DC
> circuit breaker panels (one relatively large, and the second because I
> needed more breakers).  To get them to fit in the old fuse panel
> configuration, I had a fabricating shop make an aluminum frame the same
> size as the old panel (about $50), with cut-outs for installing the BSS
> panels.  I then sent the aluminum frame to BSS, and they painted or
> powder-coated it (or whatever they do) so that it matched their panels ?
> and they did this for free because I was using their circuit breaker
> panels.  I also replaced the clunky old AC breaker box with a small BSS
> circuit breaker with polarity indicator.  I also installed a BSS switch
> that keeps the house and engine batteries separate but can cross connect in
> the event of a problem with the engine battery.  Great sys!
>  tem, which I?m considering for my ?new? boat (a 42).
>
> From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 1:49 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Alex Giannelia
> Subject: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions
>
> So, the old girl came off the hard, has a new electric motor and is now
> going to get new cabin wiring.
>
>
>
> I have been reading about bonding, grounding, panels, etc. and my head is
> spinning, so thought I ?d turn to the list for some collective wisdom
>
>
>
> Here?s a few:
>
>
>
> What sort of panels do people recommend?  The spread is for a couple
> hundred bucks for a fuse panel to well over a grand for a combined AC/DC
> Blue Seas baby.
>
>
>
> I am removing the old combined AC/DC panel above the companionway with one
> 6 gang panel in the cockpit and a 12 position plus 3 AC at the Nav Station.
>
>
>
> SHORE POWER
>
>
>
> Ok, so who is using an isolation transformer?
>
>
>
> Do you connect the DC Negative at the battery with the AC ground on your
> incoming?
>
>
>
> BONDING/LIGHTNING PROTECTION
>
>
>
> Who connects all the rig, prop shaft and keel in one electrical bundle
> also connected with battery ground?  Has anyone ever considered bonding the
> aluminum toe rails?
>
>
>
> RFI shielding
>
>
>
> What do you guys do to reduce RFI cross talk?
>
>
>
> That?s it for now.
>
>
>
> This will be a simple boat, VHF, GPS Simrad WP30 Wheelpilot and Standard
> Instruments.  The power supply for the electric motor was done already by a
> marine electrical guy and works extremely well.
>
>
>
> Suggestions?
>
>
>
> Let ?er roll!
>
>
>
> Alex
>
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
>
> C 35-II (1974) no 282
>
> a...@airsensing.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

[Alex Giannelia via CnC-List]

Mathew 



Thanks,


Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
(416) 203-9858


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 07:51:50 -0500
From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions
Message-ID: <45ACD1AB55D6494CBCA1FF12A30A99B9@InternetPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

In response to one of your queries below: I like circuit breakers for both AC 
and DC; I like Blue Sea Systems; and I do not like panels that combine AC and 
DC.  I replaced the original fuse panel on my 34 with two BSS DC circuit 
breaker panels (one relatively large, and the second because I needed more 
breakers).  To get them to fit in the old fuse panel configuration, I had a 
fabricating shop make an aluminum frame the same size as the old panel (about 
$50), with cut-outs for installing the BSS panels.  I then sent the aluminum 
frame to BSS, and they painted or powder-coated it (or whatever they do) so 
that it matched their panels ? and they did this for free because I was using 
their circuit breaker panels.  I also replaced the clunky old AC breaker box 
with a small BSS circuit breaker with polarity indicator.  I also installed a 
BSS switch that keeps the house and engine batteries separate but can cross 
connect in the event of a problem with the engine battery.  Great sys!
 tem, which I?m considering for my ?new? boat (a 42).  

From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 1:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alex Giannelia
Subject: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

So, the old girl came off the hard, has a new electric motor and is now going 
to get new cabin wiring.

 

I have been reading about bonding, grounding, panels, etc. and my head is 
spinning, so thought I ?d turn to the list for some collective wisdom

 

Here?s a few:

 

What sort of panels do people recommend?  The spread is for a couple hundred 
bucks for a fuse panel to well over a grand for a combined AC/DC Blue Seas baby.

 

I am removing the old combined AC/DC panel above the companionway with one 6 
gang panel in the cockpit and a 12 position plus 3 AC at the Nav Station.

 

SHORE POWER

 

Ok, so who is using an isolation transformer?

 

Do you connect the DC Negative at the battery with the AC ground on your 
incoming?

 

BONDING/LIGHTNING PROTECTION

 

Who connects all the rig, prop shaft and keel in one electrical bundle also 
connected with battery ground?  Has anyone ever considered bonding the aluminum 
toe rails?

 

RFI shielding

 

What do you guys do to reduce RFI cross talk?

 

That?s it for now.

 

This will be a simple boat, VHF, GPS Simrad WP30 Wheelpilot and Standard 
Instruments.  The power supply for the electric motor was done already by a 
marine electrical guy and works extremely well.

 

Suggestions?

 

Let ?er roll!

 

Alex

 

Alex Giannelia

C 35-II (1974) no 282

a...@airsensing.com

 

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 133, Issue 55

[Alex Giannelia via CnC-List]

SO, where did you move your batteries from/to?  I believe the original 
configuration was under the quarter berth.  Mine had been moved by a previous 
owner.

Thanks,


Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
(416) 203-9858

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: February-17-17 7:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 133, Issue 55

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  C 37/40+ Universal M-35 heat exchanger (Della Barba, Joe)
   2. Re:  Re-wiring, looking for suggestions (John Rand)
   3. Re:  Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator
  (Josh Muckley)


--

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 12:12:37 +
From: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37/40+ Universal M-35 heat exchanger
Message-ID:
<58cefe94bbd34f8b8ad4249918a02...@nsc-dag3-06.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

You may be overthinking this. It might just look ugly.
You could always remove it and clean it up and/or find a local radiator shop to 
boil it out.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I with a clean heat exchanger - I let it sit in a bucket of vinegar 
with the end caps off

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
Baldridge via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2017 10:12
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark Baldridge <jmbaldri...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37/40+ Universal M-35 heat exchanger

Joe,

It does not leak nor overheat. However, I'm worried about electrolysis as the 
zincs have not been changed in the last two and a half years and there is lot 
of green coating on it at the ends and fittings.

I'm planning on taking the boat from Mobile Bay to Washington NC the end of 
March by water, so I have a little time to get it right. Just don't want a 
problem once I'm on the move.

I'll be back to the boat week after next. I'll pull the caps off and check the 
zinc and see what the condition looks like. Maybe I can find a shop that can 
give me a quick turn around if it looks bad.

All my previous boats are/were raw water cooled A4s. I'm just not familiar with 
exchangers and their possible failure issues.

Thanks,
Mark

On 2/16/2017 9:50 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
Does it leak or overheat?


Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com<mailto:j...@dellabarba.com>
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2017 1:02 PM
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com><mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com><mailto:capt...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37/40+ Universal M-35 heat exchanger

I'd take it to a local radiator shop and see what they think.  They might 
refurbish it for a lot less than $300.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, Feb 15, 2017 at 11:46 AM, Mark Baldridge via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
302631





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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 07:25:15 -0500
From: John Rand <john.e.r...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions
Message-ID:
<cah0ob6ewf3duqcvccua139ouhez2xwvcy2r_nvp2dnyysz3...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi Alex,

I also have a C 35-II (1974).  Just moved my batteries and am installing a 
windlass and solar panels.  Lots of electrical questions, AC and DC.
Thanks for posting this.  I'll be following it closely.

John
john.e.r...@gmail.com


On Fri, Feb 17, 2017 at 1:49 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So, the old girl came off the hard, has a new electric motor and is 
> now going to get new cabi

Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Alex,

When I re-wired Touche' in 1999, I made my own breaker panels from Ancor 8
gang blank panels.  I made 2 DC panels and 1 AC panel.  Figure 20 single
breakers @ $16, 2 double breakers at $50 plus 3 8 gang panels @ $20 and
you've spent nearly $500 at today's prices.

By the time I finished, I figure I had spent 50-60% of the price of a nice
Blue Sea System panel.  I didn't get the nice little indicator lights on
each circuit or any volt or amp meters.

The advantage of building your own is you get exactly the amperage breakers
you need.  The disadvantages are not getting the indicator lights, nice
buss bars, etc. on the back side.

Other than that, if I had it to do over again, I'd spend the extra $$ and
get a Blue Sea panel and move on.

You might investigate Blue Sea Systems newer design it yourself panels.  My
colleague installed a custom designed system for one of his clients last
year.  Very nice install.

I'm helping a buddy re-wire his boat.  He bought a nice large Blue Sea
panel.  It's the way to go.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Feb 17, 2017 at 12:49 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So, the old girl came off the hard, has a new electric motor and is now
> going to get new cabin wiring.
>
>
>
> I have been reading about bonding, grounding, panels, etc. and my head is
> spinning, so thought I ‘d turn to the list for some collective wisdom
>
>
>
> Here’s a few:
>
>
>
> What sort of panels do people recommend?  The spread is for a couple
> hundred bucks for a fuse panel to well over a grand for a combined AC/DC
> Blue Seas baby.
>
>
>
> I am removing the old combined AC/DC panel above the companionway with one
> 6 gang panel in the cockpit and a 12 position plus 3 AC at the Nav Station.
>
>
>
> SHORE POWER
>
>
>
> Ok, so who is using an isolation transformer?
>
>
>
> Do you connect the DC Negative at the battery with the AC ground on your
> incoming?
>
>
>
> BONDING/LIGHTNING PROTECTION
>
>
>
> Who connects all the rig, prop shaft and keel in one electrical bundle
> also connected with battery ground?  Has anyone ever considered bonding the
> aluminum toe rails?
>
>
>
> RFI shielding
>
>
>
> What do you guys do to reduce RFI cross talk?
>
>
>
> That’s it for now.
>
>
>
> This will be a simple boat, VHF, GPS Simrad WP30 Wheelpilot and Standard
> Instruments.  The power supply for the electric motor was done already by a
> marine electrical guy and works extremely well.
>
>
>
> Suggestions?
>
>
>
> Let ‘er roll!
>
>
>
> Alex
>
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
>
> C 35-II (1974) no 282
>
> a...@airsensing.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List draining water heater

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

> On Feb 17, 2017, at 10:42 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The water heater has a ~6 gallon capacity.  If you attempt to freeze protect 
> it then you would need to flush out the water with glycol and probably end up 
> using 3 or 4 gallons in the process.  Glycol isn't cheap and considering that 
> you can eliminate the risk of freezing simply by draining, glycol in the 
> water heater is a waste of money.

What Josh says makes perfect sense, but now I am really confused.  When I 
winterized the boat, I pumped all the water out of the tanks, then poured 
antifreeze into the tanks and pumped until pink came out the cold and hot lines 
at each faucet.  But it did not take anything like 3-4 gallons.  What am I 
missing?  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

[Alex Giannelia via CnC-List]

Thanks Joe,

That is pretty comprehensive.  I am saving this to my folder where I store 
electrical wisdom.  Did you convert to breakers or kept a fuse based system?

I ask because the standard BS panels are supplied with all 15 A breakers which 
is too much for a lot of my branch circuits, whereas their fuses vary.

Thanks,


Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
(416) 203-9858

From: Della Barba, Joe [mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov]
Sent: February-17-17 10:43 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Alex Giannelia
Subject: RE: Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

I go Blue Seas for everything. It is very good gear and usually is all over 
Ebay.
For bonding/grounding, you want a nice big bus bar for ship's ground and run 
EVERY ground to that one spot. Bonding thru-hulls is a complicated subject. 
Mine are not bonded and I like it that way. Others do the opposite.
For shore power, an isolation transformer is the best, but somewhat big and 
heavy. I use a galvanic isolator. The green wire AC ground does connect to the 
ship's ground and the incoming green wire from shore goes through the galvanic 
isolator. This keeps cheap bastards in the other slips from using your zincs.
I use various ferrites on leads related to the SSB for RFI suppression. They 
are pretty cheap off Amazon or Fleabay.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex 
Giannelia via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 01:50
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alex Giannelia >
Subject: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

So, the old girl came off the hard, has a new electric motor and is now going 
to get new cabin wiring.

I have been reading about bonding, grounding, panels, etc. and my head is 
spinning, so thought I 'd turn to the list for some collective wisdom

Here's a few:

What sort of panels do people recommend?  The spread is for a couple hundred 
bucks for a fuse panel to well over a grand for a combined AC/DC Blue Seas baby.

I am removing the old combined AC/DC panel above the companionway with one 6 
gang panel in the cockpit and a 12 position plus 3 AC at the Nav Station.

SHORE POWER

Ok, so who is using an isolation transformer?

Do you connect the DC Negative at the battery with the AC ground on your 
incoming?

BONDING/LIGHTNING PROTECTION

Who connects all the rig, prop shaft and keel in one electrical bundle also 
connected with battery ground?  Has anyone ever considered bonding the aluminum 
toe rails?

RFI shielding

What do you guys do to reduce RFI cross talk?

That's it for now.

This will be a simple boat, VHF, GPS Simrad WP30 Wheelpilot and Standard 
Instruments.  The power supply for the electric motor was done already by a 
marine electrical guy and works extremely well.

Suggestions?

Let 'er roll!

Alex

Alex Giannelia
C 35-II (1974) no 282
a...@airsensing.com

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

ACR - combines battery banks for charging and separates them when not charging.
Regulator - controls the alternator.
You need both ;) (or a switch and a human for the ACR)
You still want to see the amps coming out of your alternator. I use this device 
for mine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DDQM6Z4/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8=1487346315=sr-1=hall+effect
It does not need a shunt, which is very nice. High side shunts are a PITA.
I wrote about it here:
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9835


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 10:27
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

Hi Josh- My plan at present is to not do quick and dirty.  I plan to eliminate 
the ammeter circuit, remove the internal alternator regulation (I have that 
conversion kit already), and then run the alternator directly to the batteries. 
 I am still unclear on the functionality of the multi-stage voltage regulators 
vs. ACR’s.  I would have to put in a voltage regulator of some sort if I remove 
the internal regulation, but I am not sure whether one also needs an ACR.  Dave
 
PS- no one has answered my question about the rationale for draining the water 
heater.

Dr. David Knecht
Professor , Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
U-3125
Storrs, CT 06269-3125
860-486-2200

> On Feb 17, 2017, at 7:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> David, 
> 
> It sounds like you got the "quick and dirty" answers you were looking for.  
> If you are going to be using an external regulator then the quick and dirty 
> method shouldn't be used.  As Fred said, a dedicated large gauge wire from 
> the alternator straight to the house battery bank.  You'll program your 
> regulator to match your house battery chemistry.
> 
> The solenoid I would use for the glow plugs looks like the one in the link 
> below.   They're cheap starter solenoids.  $10 or $20 is a good ballpark cost.
> 
> http://search.defender.com/?SI=ec6c8f2d-678f-4a95-87a1-354ee39a99a1=14=http%3a%2f%2fwww.defender.com%2fProductDisplay%3fprodnum%3d202096%7e202096%7eCole+Hersee+Continuous+Duty+Solenoid+12+Volt+DC%7e24.99
> 
> Rewiring your panel and eliminating the orange wire will render your ammeter 
> useless.  If you'd like, the safe way to add an ammeter is by installing a 
> shunt ON THE NEGATIVE BATTERY terminal.  The shunt has a linear voltage drop 
> (millivolts) to current ratio so with the shunt attached to the negative 
> battery terminal and all of the ground paths attached to the shunt, a voltage 
> reading (0-100mV) across the shunt will be proportional to the current 
> (0-100amps).  An inadvertent contact with the shunt or signal wire will 
> represent only millivolts more than ground so a fault would not be hazardous. 
>  Since the signal voltage is so low a very long run of signal wire could be 
> used to power your ammeter.  A new ammeter would need to be selected such 
> that it matches the shunt in order to read properly.  Placing the shunt on 
> the ground terminal also ensures that total charging and discharging currents 
> can be measured.  
> 
> https://www.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html?gclid=CK2Uq_GKl9ICFd6KswodJYkPhw
> 
> The original "orange" wire was designed for a low current alternator on a 
> tractor or skid loader application.  Once the engine was started the charge 
> current would quickly drop as the engine charged the battery to its full 
> capacity.  A 30amp alternator might only see 30amps for a few seconds after 
> start.  The orange wire carried the full supply of alternator power from the 
> engine to the control panel ammeter and then to the battery.  30 amps 
> momentarily on a short run of 10 gauge wire isn't a big deal in a tractor but 
> on a boat with the panel and batteries significantly further from the engine 
> and often in opposite directions of one another its a more significant 
> concern.  Add to that the fact that owners regularly upgrade their alternator 
> to 3 or 4 times the normal output and you have a recipe for disaster.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> On Feb 12, 2017 11:45 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> Siting here watching lots of snow come down makes my thoughts turn to boat 
> maintenance and I have been reading the very useful Mainecruising site.  
> 
> First question- Engine panel, alternator wiring and charge control
> I have a Universal diesel on my boat and the infamous trailer connectors 
> described here:  
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade=1. I 
> also have the panel pictured in this article with ammeter and tachometer.  I 
> have already replaced one of the trailer 

Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I go Blue Seas for everything. It is very good gear and usually is all over 
Ebay.
For bonding/grounding, you want a nice big bus bar for ship's ground and run 
EVERY ground to that one spot. Bonding thru-hulls is a complicated subject. 
Mine are not bonded and I like it that way. Others do the opposite.
For shore power, an isolation transformer is the best, but somewhat big and 
heavy. I use a galvanic isolator. The green wire AC ground does connect to the 
ship's ground and the incoming green wire from shore goes through the galvanic 
isolator. This keeps cheap bastards in the other slips from using your zincs.
I use various ferrites on leads related to the SSB for RFI suppression. They 
are pretty cheap off Amazon or Fleabay.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex 
Giannelia via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 01:50
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alex Giannelia 
Subject: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

So, the old girl came off the hard, has a new electric motor and is now going 
to get new cabin wiring.

I have been reading about bonding, grounding, panels, etc. and my head is 
spinning, so thought I 'd turn to the list for some collective wisdom

Here's a few:

What sort of panels do people recommend?  The spread is for a couple hundred 
bucks for a fuse panel to well over a grand for a combined AC/DC Blue Seas baby.

I am removing the old combined AC/DC panel above the companionway with one 6 
gang panel in the cockpit and a 12 position plus 3 AC at the Nav Station.

SHORE POWER

Ok, so who is using an isolation transformer?

Do you connect the DC Negative at the battery with the AC ground on your 
incoming?

BONDING/LIGHTNING PROTECTION

Who connects all the rig, prop shaft and keel in one electrical bundle also 
connected with battery ground?  Has anyone ever considered bonding the aluminum 
toe rails?

RFI shielding

What do you guys do to reduce RFI cross talk?

That's it for now.

This will be a simple boat, VHF, GPS Simrad WP30 Wheelpilot and Standard 
Instruments.  The power supply for the electric motor was done already by a 
marine electrical guy and works extremely well.

Suggestions?

Let 'er roll!

Alex

Alex Giannelia
C 35-II (1974) no 282
a...@airsensing.com

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The water heater has a ~6 gallon capacity.  If you attempt to freeze
protect it then you would need to flush out the water with glycol and
probably end up using 3 or 4 gallons in the process.  Glycol isn't cheap
and considering that you can eliminate the risk of freezing simply by
draining, glycol in the water heater is a waste of money.

The ACR allows changing of a second bank once the first bank gets up to
near full charge.  A multi-stage regulator is what controls the alternator
output voltage to provide fast, efficient charging which also promotes
longer battery life.

Josh



On Feb 17, 2017 10:27 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Hi Josh- My plan at present is to not do quick and dirty.  I plan to
eliminate the ammeter circuit, remove the internal alternator regulation (I
have that conversion kit already), and then run the alternator directly to
the batteries.  I am still unclear on the functionality of the multi-stage
voltage regulators vs. ACR’s.  I would have to put in a voltage regulator
of some sort if I remove the internal regulation, but I am not sure whether
one also needs an ACR.  Dave

PS- no one has answered my question about the rationale for draining the
water heater.

Dr. David Knecht
Professor , Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
University of Connecticut
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
U-3125
Storrs, CT 06269-3125
860-486-2200

> On Feb 17, 2017, at 7:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> David,
>
> It sounds like you got the "quick and dirty" answers you were looking
for.  If you are going to be using an external regulator then the quick and
dirty method shouldn't be used.  As Fred said, a dedicated large gauge wire
from the alternator straight to the house battery bank.  You'll program
your regulator to match your house battery chemistry.
>
> The solenoid I would use for the glow plugs looks like the one in the
link below.   They're cheap starter solenoids.  $10 or $20 is a good
ballpark cost.
>
> http://search.defender.com/?SI=ec6c8f2d-678f-4a95-87a1-
354ee39a99a1=14=http%3a%2f%2fwww.defender.com%
2fProductDisplay%3fprodnum%3d202096%7e202096%7eCole+Hersee+Continuous+Duty+
Solenoid+12+Volt+DC%7e24.99
>
> Rewiring your panel and eliminating the orange wire will render your
ammeter useless.  If you'd like, the safe way to add an ammeter is by
installing a shunt ON THE NEGATIVE BATTERY terminal.  The shunt has a
linear voltage drop (millivolts) to current ratio so with the shunt
attached to the negative battery terminal and all of the ground paths
attached to the shunt, a voltage reading (0-100mV) across the shunt will be
proportional to the current (0-100amps).  An inadvertent contact with the
shunt or signal wire will represent only millivolts more than ground so a
fault would not be hazardous.  Since the signal voltage is so low a very
long run of signal wire could be used to power your ammeter.  A new ammeter
would need to be selected such that it matches the shunt in order to read
properly.  Placing the shunt on the ground terminal also ensures that total
charging and discharging currents can be measured.
>
> https://www.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html?gclid=
CK2Uq_GKl9ICFd6KswodJYkPhw
>
> The original "orange" wire was designed for a low current alternator on a
tractor or skid loader application.  Once the engine was started the charge
current would quickly drop as the engine charged the battery to its full
capacity.  A 30amp alternator might only see 30amps for a few seconds after
start.  The orange wire carried the full supply of alternator power from
the engine to the control panel ammeter and then to the battery.  30 amps
momentarily on a short run of 10 gauge wire isn't a big deal in a tractor
but on a boat with the panel and batteries significantly further from the
engine and often in opposite directions of one another its a more
significant concern.  Add to that the fact that owners regularly upgrade
their alternator to 3 or 4 times the normal output and you have a recipe
for disaster.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Feb 12, 2017 11:45 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Siting here watching lots of snow come down makes my thoughts turn to
boat maintenance and I have been reading the very useful Mainecruising site.
>
> First question- Engine panel, alternator wiring and charge control
> I have a Universal diesel on my boat and the infamous trailer connectors
described here:  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_
wiring_harness_upgrade=1. I also have the panel pictured in this
article with ammeter and tachometer.  I have already replaced one of the
trailer connectors (partially melted) by directly splicing all the wires to
their mates with butt connectors and will do the other in the spring.   I
have read the article a number of times now and am reasonably sure I should
also do the starter circuit upgrade as he recommends, but some of the

Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Josh- My plan at present is to not do quick and dirty.  I plan to eliminate 
the ammeter circuit, remove the internal alternator regulation (I have that 
conversion kit already), and then run the alternator directly to the batteries. 
 I am still unclear on the functionality of the multi-stage voltage regulators 
vs. ACR’s.  I would have to put in a voltage regulator of some sort if I remove 
the internal regulation, but I am not sure whether one also needs an ACR.  Dave
 
PS- no one has answered my question about the rationale for draining the water 
heater.

Dr. David Knecht
Professor , Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
U-3125
Storrs, CT 06269-3125
860-486-2200

> On Feb 17, 2017, at 7:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> David, 
> 
> It sounds like you got the "quick and dirty" answers you were looking for.  
> If you are going to be using an external regulator then the quick and dirty 
> method shouldn't be used.  As Fred said, a dedicated large gauge wire from 
> the alternator straight to the house battery bank.  You'll program your 
> regulator to match your house battery chemistry.
> 
> The solenoid I would use for the glow plugs looks like the one in the link 
> below.   They're cheap starter solenoids.  $10 or $20 is a good ballpark cost.
> 
> http://search.defender.com/?SI=ec6c8f2d-678f-4a95-87a1-354ee39a99a1=14=http%3a%2f%2fwww.defender.com%2fProductDisplay%3fprodnum%3d202096%7e202096%7eCole+Hersee+Continuous+Duty+Solenoid+12+Volt+DC%7e24.99
> 
> Rewiring your panel and eliminating the orange wire will render your ammeter 
> useless.  If you'd like, the safe way to add an ammeter is by installing a 
> shunt ON THE NEGATIVE BATTERY terminal.  The shunt has a linear voltage drop 
> (millivolts) to current ratio so with the shunt attached to the negative 
> battery terminal and all of the ground paths attached to the shunt, a voltage 
> reading (0-100mV) across the shunt will be proportional to the current 
> (0-100amps).  An inadvertent contact with the shunt or signal wire will 
> represent only millivolts more than ground so a fault would not be hazardous. 
>  Since the signal voltage is so low a very long run of signal wire could be 
> used to power your ammeter.  A new ammeter would need to be selected such 
> that it matches the shunt in order to read properly.  Placing the shunt on 
> the ground terminal also ensures that total charging and discharging currents 
> can be measured.  
> 
> https://www.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html?gclid=CK2Uq_GKl9ICFd6KswodJYkPhw
> 
> The original "orange" wire was designed for a low current alternator on a 
> tractor or skid loader application.  Once the engine was started the charge 
> current would quickly drop as the engine charged the battery to its full 
> capacity.  A 30amp alternator might only see 30amps for a few seconds after 
> start.  The orange wire carried the full supply of alternator power from the 
> engine to the control panel ammeter and then to the battery.  30 amps 
> momentarily on a short run of 10 gauge wire isn't a big deal in a tractor but 
> on a boat with the panel and batteries significantly further from the engine 
> and often in opposite directions of one another its a more significant 
> concern.  Add to that the fact that owners regularly upgrade their alternator 
> to 3 or 4 times the normal output and you have a recipe for disaster.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> On Feb 12, 2017 11:45 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> Siting here watching lots of snow come down makes my thoughts turn to boat 
> maintenance and I have been reading the very useful Mainecruising site.  
> 
> First question- Engine panel, alternator wiring and charge control
> I have a Universal diesel on my boat and the infamous trailer connectors 
> described here:  
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade=1. I 
> also have the panel pictured in this article with ammeter and tachometer.  I 
> have already replaced one of the trailer connectors (partially melted) by 
> directly splicing all the wires to their mates with butt connectors and will 
> do the other in the spring.   I have read the article a number of times now 
> and am reasonably sure I should also do the starter circuit upgrade as he 
> recommends, but some of the details are fuzzy to me.  I have a hard time 
> understanding the whole thing if I can’t look at a wiring diagram.   Has 
> anyone created a wiring diagram for the starter/alternator/switches/glow 
> plugs/panel on these Universals?  
> 
> More specifically- his first recommendation is the quick and dirty fix: 
> Simply jump the alternator output to the starter post and disconnect the 
> orange wire. With this jumper the alternator output bypasses the 20+/- feet 
> of teeny tiny 10GA wire and uses the large gauge starter wire to 

Re: Stus-List Are there Zincs I need to change ina Yanmar 3JH2E?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The 3HM35 and 3GM30 actually call for a different plate that will accept
the zinc.

Josh

On Feb 17, 2017 9:00 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Another boater at our club also has a 3GM30F.  He purchased the zinc for
> the engine.  When he went to install it he could find no place for it.  3
> boat owners crowding around his engine with both service manuals and we
> finally found a reference in the manual that stated there was no zinc for
> the fresh water cooled engine.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 3GM30F
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *robert
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, February 17, 2017 9:40 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* robert
> *Subject:* Stus-List Are there Zincs I need to change ina Yanmar 3JH2E?
>
>
>
> I have a Yanmar 2GMF and I have yet to find a zinc anywhere on that engine.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2017-02-17 7:40 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>
> The 2JH2E is freshwater cooled right?  Meaning it has a sealed glycol loop
> that recirculates AND an open seawater path that cools the glycol heat
> exchanger and goes on to cool the exhaust before editing the boat.  To the
> best of my knowledge these freshwater yanmars do not have zincs.  The need
> is eliminated because where the saltwater comes in limited contact with the
> engine parts (heat exchanger and salt water pump).  Those parts have been
> made of copper nickle alloys or siliconized bronze.  Neither of which
> readily corrode in salt water.  The non-freshwater cooled engines have to
> have zincs because of the cast iron engine block which readily corrodes in
> saltwater.
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Feb 16, 2017 2:14 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I don't remember seeing a reference to them in the manuals I read.
>
> Kindest Regards,
>
> Bruce
> 847.404.5092
>
> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Are there Zincs I need to change ina Yanmar 3JH2E?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Thanks guys!

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

> On Feb 17, 2017, at 8:39 AM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have a Yanmar 2GMF and I have yet to find a zinc anywhere on that engine.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
>> On 2017-02-17 7:40 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>> The 2JH2E is freshwater cooled right?  Meaning it has a sealed glycol loop 
>> that recirculates AND an open seawater path that cools the glycol heat 
>> exchanger and goes on to cool the exhaust before editing the boat.  To the 
>> best of my knowledge these freshwater yanmars do not have zincs.  The need 
>> is eliminated because where the saltwater comes in limited contact with the 
>> engine parts (heat exchanger and salt water pump).  Those parts have been 
>> made of copper nickle alloys or siliconized bronze.  Neither of which 
>> readily corrode in salt water.  The non-freshwater cooled engines have to 
>> have zincs because of the cast iron engine block which readily corrodes in 
>> saltwater.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>>> On Feb 16, 2017 2:14 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I don't remember seeing a reference to them in the manuals I read.
>>> 
>>> Kindest Regards,
>>> 
>>> Bruce
>>> 847.404.5092
>>> 
>>> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Are there Zincs I need to change ina Yanmar 3JH2E?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Another boater at our club also has a 3GM30F.  He purchased the zinc for the 
engine.  When he went to install it he could find no place for it.  3 boat 
owners crowding around his engine with both service manuals and we finally 
found a reference in the manual that stated there was no zinc for the fresh 
water cooled engine.

Mike
Persistence
3GM30F
Halifax, NS


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 9:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Are there Zincs I need to change ina Yanmar 3JH2E?

I have a Yanmar 2GMF and I have yet to find a zinc anywhere on that engine.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2017-02-17 7:40 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
The 2JH2E is freshwater cooled right?  Meaning it has a sealed glycol loop that 
recirculates AND an open seawater path that cools the glycol heat exchanger and 
goes on to cool the exhaust before editing the boat.  To the best of my 
knowledge these freshwater yanmars do not have zincs.  The need is eliminated 
because where the saltwater comes in limited contact with the engine parts 
(heat exchanger and salt water pump).  Those parts have been made of copper 
nickle alloys or siliconized bronze.  Neither of which readily corrode in salt 
water.  The non-freshwater cooled engines have to have zincs because of the 
cast iron engine block which readily corrodes in saltwater.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Feb 16, 2017 2:14 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
I don't remember seeing a reference to them in the manuals I read.

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Are there Zincs I need to change ina Yanmar 3JH2E?

[robert via CnC-List]

I have a Yanmar 2GMF and I have yet to find a zinc anywhere on that engine.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-02-17 7:40 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
The 2JH2E is freshwater cooled right?  Meaning it has a sealed glycol 
loop that recirculates AND an open seawater path that cools the glycol 
heat exchanger and goes on to cool the exhaust before editing the 
boat.  To the best of my knowledge these freshwater yanmars do not 
have zincs.  The need is eliminated because where the saltwater comes 
in limited contact with the engine parts (heat exchanger and salt 
water pump).  Those parts have been made of copper nickle alloys or 
siliconized bronze.  Neither of which readily corrode in salt water.  
The non-freshwater cooled engines have to have zincs because of the 
cast iron engine block which readily corrodes in saltwater.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Feb 16, 2017 2:14 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


I don't remember seeing a reference to them in the manuals I read.

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092 

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

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If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go
to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

In response to one of your queries below: I like circuit breakers for both AC 
and DC; I like Blue Sea Systems; and I do not like panels that combine AC and 
DC.  I replaced the original fuse panel on my 34 with two BSS DC circuit 
breaker panels (one relatively large, and the second because I needed more 
breakers).  To get them to fit in the old fuse panel configuration, I had a 
fabricating shop make an aluminum frame the same size as the old panel (about 
$50), with cut-outs for installing the BSS panels.  I then sent the aluminum 
frame to BSS, and they painted or powder-coated it (or whatever they do) so 
that it matched their panels – and they did this for free because I was using 
their circuit breaker panels.  I also replaced the clunky old AC breaker box 
with a small BSS circuit breaker with polarity indicator.  I also installed a 
BSS switch that keeps the house and engine batteries separate but can cross 
connect in the event of a problem with the engine battery.  Great system, which 
I’m considering for my “new” boat (a 42).  

From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 1:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Alex Giannelia 
Subject: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

So, the old girl came off the hard, has a new electric motor and is now going 
to get new cabin wiring.

 

I have been reading about bonding, grounding, panels, etc. and my head is 
spinning, so thought I ‘d turn to the list for some collective wisdom

 

Here’s a few:

 

What sort of panels do people recommend?  The spread is for a couple hundred 
bucks for a fuse panel to well over a grand for a combined AC/DC Blue Seas baby.

 

I am removing the old combined AC/DC panel above the companionway with one 6 
gang panel in the cockpit and a 12 position plus 3 AC at the Nav Station.

 

SHORE POWER

 

Ok, so who is using an isolation transformer?

 

Do you connect the DC Negative at the battery with the AC ground on your 
incoming?

 

BONDING/LIGHTNING PROTECTION

 

Who connects all the rig, prop shaft and keel in one electrical bundle also 
connected with battery ground?  Has anyone ever considered bonding the aluminum 
toe rails?

 

RFI shielding

 

What do you guys do to reduce RFI cross talk?

 

That’s it for now.

 

This will be a simple boat, VHF, GPS Simrad WP30 Wheelpilot and Standard 
Instruments.  The power supply for the electric motor was done already by a 
marine electrical guy and works extremely well.

 

Suggestions?

 

Let ‘er roll!

 

Alex

 

Alex Giannelia

C 35-II (1974) no 282

a...@airsensing.com

 




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___

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Re: Stus-List C 37/40+ Universal M-35 heat exchanger

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The most likely failure is with the fittings that attach to the heat
exchanger.  A PO may have unknowingly used brass fittings instead of the
correct bronze ones.  I mentioned this in another reply but the heat
exchanger is most likely made of corrosion resistant materials specially
for saltwater environments.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Feb 16, 2017 10:13 AM, "Mark Baldridge via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joe,
>
> It does not leak nor overheat. However, I'm worried about electrolysis as
> the zincs have not been changed in the last two and a half years and there
> is lot of green coating on it at the ends and fittings.
>
> I'm planning on taking the boat from Mobile Bay to Washington NC the end
> of March by water, so I have a little time to get it right. Just don't want
> a problem once I'm on the move.
>
> I'll be back to the boat week after next. I'll pull the caps off and check
> the zinc and see what the condition looks like. Maybe I can find a shop
> that can give me a quick turn around if it looks bad.
>
> All my previous boats are/were raw water cooled A4s. I'm just not familiar
> with exchangers and their possible failure issues.
>
> Thanks,
> Mark
>
>
> On 2/16/2017 9:50 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Does it leak or overheat?
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> j...@dellabarba.com
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Dennis C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2017 1:02 PM
> *To:* CnClist  
> *Cc:* Dennis C.  
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C 37/40+ Universal M-35 heat exchanger
>
>
>
> I'd take it to a local radiator shop and see what they think.  They might
> refurbish it for a lot less than $300.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 15, 2017 at 11:46 AM, Mark Baldridge via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 302631
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

David,

It sounds like you got the "quick and dirty" answers you were looking for.
If you are going to be using an external regulator then the quick and dirty
method shouldn't be used.  As Fred said, a dedicated large gauge wire from
the alternator straight to the house battery bank.  You'll program your
regulator to match your house battery chemistry.

The solenoid I would use for the glow plugs looks like the one in the link
below.   They're cheap starter solenoids.  $10 or $20 is a good ballpark
cost.

http://search.defender.com/?SI=ec6c8f2d-678f-4a95-87a1-354ee39a99a1=14=http%3a%2f%2fwww.defender.com%2fProductDisplay%3fprodnum%3d202096%7e202096%7eCole+Hersee+Continuous+Duty+Solenoid+12+Volt+DC%7e24.99

Rewiring your panel and eliminating the orange wire will render your
ammeter useless.  If you'd like, the safe way to add an ammeter is by
installing a shunt ON THE NEGATIVE BATTERY terminal.  The shunt has a
linear voltage drop (millivolts) to current ratio so with the shunt
attached to the negative battery terminal and all of the ground paths
attached to the shunt, a voltage reading (0-100mV) across the shunt will be
proportional to the current (0-100amps).  An inadvertent contact with the
shunt or signal wire will represent only millivolts more than ground so a
fault would not be hazardous.  Since the signal voltage is so low a very
long run of signal wire could be used to power your ammeter.  A new ammeter
would need to be selected such that it matches the shunt in order to read
properly.  Placing the shunt on the ground terminal also ensures that total
charging and discharging currents can be measured.

https://www.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html?gclid=CK2Uq_GKl9ICFd6KswodJYkPhw

The original "orange" wire was designed for a low current alternator on a
tractor or skid loader application.  Once the engine was started the charge
current would quickly drop as the engine charged the battery to its full
capacity.  A 30amp alternator might only see 30amps for a few seconds after
start.  The orange wire carried the full supply of alternator power from
the engine to the control panel ammeter and then to the battery.  30 amps
momentarily on a short run of 10 gauge wire isn't a big deal in a tractor
but on a boat with the panel and batteries significantly further from the
engine and often in opposite directions of one another its a more
significant concern.  Add to that the fact that owners regularly upgrade
their alternator to 3 or 4 times the normal output and you have a recipe
for disaster.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Feb 12, 2017 11:45 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Siting here watching lots of snow come down makes my thoughts turn to boat
maintenance and I have been reading the very useful Mainecruising site.

First question- Engine panel, alternator wiring and charge control
I have a Universal diesel on my boat and the infamous trailer connectors
described here:  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_
wiring_harness_upgrade=1. I also have the panel pictured in this
article with ammeter and tachometer.  I have already replaced one of the
trailer connectors (partially melted) by directly splicing all the wires to
their mates with butt connectors and will do the other in the spring.   I
have read the article a number of times now and am reasonably sure I should
also do the starter circuit upgrade as he recommends, but some of the
details are fuzzy to me.  I have a hard time understanding the whole thing
if I can’t look at a wiring diagram.   Has anyone created a wiring diagram
for the starter/alternator/switches/glow plugs/panel on these Universals?

More specifically- his first recommendation is the quick and dirty fix: *Simply
jump the alternator output to the starter post and disconnect the orange
wire. With this jumper the alternator output bypasses the 20+/- feet of
teeny tiny 10GA wire and uses the large gauge starter wire to make its way
back to the battery switch and then to the battery banks.*
I presume this eliminates the ammeter completely (no big loss in my book as
I never look at it).   I am fuzzy on the reason this is important since the
alternator does not drive the starter, so without a circuit diagram I am
having trouble seeing what this accomplishes.

Also- If I go for more than the quick and dirty- I think I have two
options.  First would be running the alternator to the house bank and an
ACR to the starter battery.  Second would be a charge controller (Balmar
614) between the alternator and the battery banks.  Am I right that it is
one or the other?  What I read from the same site makes me think the charge
controller is the much better option since I have AGM batteries and he
discusses extensively the problems of Motorola alternators, temperature
compensation and charge control http://www.pbase.com/
mainecruising/automotive_alternators_vs_deep_cycle_batteries.

Also, If I add a glow plug solenoid as he discusses, 

Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

[John Rand via CnC-List]

Hi Alex,

I also have a C 35-II (1974).  Just moved my batteries and am installing
a windlass and solar panels.  Lots of electrical questions, AC and DC.
Thanks for posting this.  I'll be following it closely.

John
john.e.r...@gmail.com


On Fri, Feb 17, 2017 at 1:49 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So, the old girl came off the hard, has a new electric motor and is now
> going to get new cabin wiring.
>
>
>
> I have been reading about bonding, grounding, panels, etc. and my head is
> spinning, so thought I ‘d turn to the list for some collective wisdom
>
>
>
> Here’s a few:
>
>
>
> What sort of panels do people recommend?  The spread is for a couple
> hundred bucks for a fuse panel to well over a grand for a combined AC/DC
> Blue Seas baby.
>
>
>
> I am removing the old combined AC/DC panel above the companionway with one
> 6 gang panel in the cockpit and a 12 position plus 3 AC at the Nav Station.
>
>
>
> SHORE POWER
>
>
>
> Ok, so who is using an isolation transformer?
>
>
>
> Do you connect the DC Negative at the battery with the AC ground on your
> incoming?
>
>
>
> BONDING/LIGHTNING PROTECTION
>
>
>
> Who connects all the rig, prop shaft and keel in one electrical bundle
> also connected with battery ground?  Has anyone ever considered bonding the
> aluminum toe rails?
>
>
>
> RFI shielding
>
>
>
> What do you guys do to reduce RFI cross talk?
>
>
>
> That’s it for now.
>
>
>
> This will be a simple boat, VHF, GPS Simrad WP30 Wheelpilot and Standard
> Instruments.  The power supply for the electric motor was done already by a
> marine electrical guy and works extremely well.
>
>
>
> Suggestions?
>
>
>
> Let ‘er roll!
>
>
>
> Alex
>
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
>
> C 35-II (1974) no 282
>
> a...@airsensing.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 37/40+ Universal M-35 heat exchanger

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

You may be overthinking this. It might just look ugly.
You could always remove it and clean it up and/or find a local radiator shop to 
boil it out.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I with a clean heat exchanger - I let it sit in a bucket of vinegar 
with the end caps off

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
Baldridge via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2017 10:12
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark Baldridge 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37/40+ Universal M-35 heat exchanger

Joe,

It does not leak nor overheat. However, I'm worried about electrolysis as the 
zincs have not been changed in the last two and a half years and there is lot 
of green coating on it at the ends and fittings.

I'm planning on taking the boat from Mobile Bay to Washington NC the end of 
March by water, so I have a little time to get it right. Just don't want a 
problem once I'm on the move.

I'll be back to the boat week after next. I'll pull the caps off and check the 
zinc and see what the condition looks like. Maybe I can find a shop that can 
give me a quick turn around if it looks bad.

All my previous boats are/were raw water cooled A4s. I'm just not familiar with 
exchangers and their possible failure issues.

Thanks,
Mark

On 2/16/2017 9:50 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
Does it leak or overheat?


Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2017 1:02 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37/40+ Universal M-35 heat exchanger

I'd take it to a local radiator shop and see what they think.  They might 
refurbish it for a lot less than $300.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, Feb 15, 2017 at 11:46 AM, Mark Baldridge via CnC-List 
> wrote:
302631





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Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I get water down my mast - inside and outside. I need to redo the mast seal :(
The water that goes down the outside can sometimes land on the corner of the 
port settee and get in that locker. If you have water in the outboard lockers, 
it is from somewhere else.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil 
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 22:35
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Gallagher 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

Tom,

FWIW, I get a similar amount of water in the boat as you're finding, most comes 
down the mast.  However, water under the settee is most likely from hull/deck 
joint.  My boat had also been on the hard for three years before my purchase, 
and the lockers under the port settees were all getting some water.  It's not a 
big deal to tighten all the screws in the toe rail, as that's probably the 
source of the water.  Takes two people of course, one above to hold the screw, 
the other below to tighten the nut.  Don't overdo it, as you don't want to 
squeeze the sealant out, just snug them up.  It took care of it for me.

Sad to hear of Art's passing, he made the 35-1 look really fast.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 2/12/2017 9:13 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List wrote:
Randy, Neil, Bill,

Thank you all for the advice. I've marked the hull with a washable marker and 
will check for water next weekend. The mast is in, and it hadn't crossed my 
mind that the water was coming through it. I'll add replacing the mast boot and 
installing a garboard drain to my list of projects.

Thanks again,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY




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Re: Stus-List Are there Zincs I need to change ina Yanmar 3JH2E?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The 2JH2E is freshwater cooled right?  Meaning it has a sealed glycol loop
that recirculates AND an open seawater path that cools the glycol heat
exchanger and goes on to cool the exhaust before editing the boat.  To the
best of my knowledge these freshwater yanmars do not have zincs.  The need
is eliminated because where the saltwater comes in limited contact with the
engine parts (heat exchanger and salt water pump).  Those parts have been
made of copper nickle alloys or siliconized bronze.  Neither of which
readily corrode in salt water.  The non-freshwater cooled engines have to
have zincs because of the cast iron engine block which readily corrodes in
saltwater.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Feb 16, 2017 2:14 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I don't remember seeing a reference to them in the manuals I read.
>
> Kindest Regards,
>
> Bruce
> 847.404.5092
>
> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>
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> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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