Re: Stus-List Defender sale is live!

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Chuck, I can't make it in person, (obviously) but I've already bought two 
gallons of bottom paint!

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, mile 596

Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Sent: Wed, Mar 29, 2017 4:52 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender sale is live!

Anyone heading to Defenders sale this weekend, I'll be working in the cut 
goods/rope/dock lines/ mooring pendants area tomorrow through Sunday.  Stop by 
and introduce yourself and we can talk about our boats!
Chuck Gilchrest 
Novabraid USA
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 29, 2017, at 2:39 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The website sale prices went live at 2:00.
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Paint

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I have used Valspar Floor & Porch enamel, latex & satin finish.  I had it
custom mixed to match the existing light beige color.  Not elegant but no
fumes and so far it has held up for about a year.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bruce via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 4:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bruce
Subject: Stus-List Paint

 

Looking for a good quality paint to paint the inside of the sail lockers,
and other such areas.  Bright and Clean.  Ideas please.

 

 

Bruce

C 27 Mk III

Asterie 

Montreal, Quebec

 

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Re: Stus-List Sails for sale

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

If anyone was interested in seeing pictures of the sails I listed the other
day.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByfhZSW8NL8BLXZfcjhMYXZodms

On Mon, Mar 27, 2017, 9:54 PM Kevin Paxton  wrote:

> Thanks Chuck.
>
> If anyone is interested I am trying to get rid of 2 of the headsails of
> the 5 that I got with the purchase of our '81 34. I recently took them all
> to Bacons Sails in annapolis to help me sort out what I should keep and
> what I should consign or trash. These are the 2 that they said they could
> try to consign if I chose to do so.
>
> The first is a Mylar Racing #1 (~150% for an I of 14'). Very good
> condition. There is a little bit of moisture starting in some of the
> stitching and Bacons suggested that I try to get it cleaned and sealed if I
> were to keep it. I really liked this sail but it's a bit too large for the
> roller furling I have on board. I don't want to have to hank on a sail this
> large every time we go out either.
> Measurements: 43' 8" x 42' x 22' 4"
> 3/16" luff tape
> Bacons said they would probably consign it at ~950-1000.
>
> I also have a lightweight Genoa (~140% for an I of 14') that has writings
> on it suggesting it was new in '79. Bacons said it was approximately 4oz
> Dacron.
> Measurements: 43' 11"x 40' 4" x 22'
> 3/16" luff tape.
> No suncover.
> some stains, but still in decent shape.
> Bacons would consign for ~400-600.
>
> Like mentioned above, both have a 3/16" luff tape so they will work with a
> roller furling foil. However, they were too long to actually be used with
> mine, which is why I am parting ways with them.
>
> The previous owner definitely raced the boat before he got health issues.
> I could not tell you usage stats for either since I haven't really used
> them extensively. I did use the Mylar one a few times and I would keep it
> if I could, but I'd rather something that fits better that I can leave on
> all the time.
>
> Price wise, I'm up for offers. I did mention what Bacons would probably
> sell it for as a starting range. I don't mind passing on a deal, but please
> keep in mind, I'm also trying to offset the costs of a semi-new/new sail
> myself.
>
> Thanks everyone for your help! I'll definitely be looking to some of the
> donation options you all mentioned for the other ones.
>
> Kevin
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 27, 2017 at 4:00 PM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Kevin,
>
> To optimize your return, you may want to list what you have right here on
> the C email list.  Put together a list of what size, (luff, leech, foot),
> material and weight of the sailcloth, general condition, and any work that
> would be needed for the sail to be usable.  Also let folks know if the
> sails were designed to work with roller furling.   Perhaps another owner of
> a 34 (or 35 Mk 1) is lurking in background waiting for a good deal on one
> of your headsails. and weighing against what you may gain from selling it
> through Bacon’s (still not a bad option, certainly to someone not wanting
> to haggle or hassle with the shipping of a sail to heaven knows where..)
> price it accordingly to make it a “good deal” for all parties concerned.
>
>
>
> I just checked rig dimensions but it looks as if your “I” dimension is
> about 2’ too long for my boat…
>
> Cheers,
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 Landfall 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Paxton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, March 27, 2017 2:46 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton kpax...@paxdesigns.com,
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Options for getting rid of sails
>
>
>
> Thanks for the suggestions guys. The wife likes the idea of a new bag.
>
>
>
> Anyone fairly successful selling decent quality sails? Or is Consigning a
> better option?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin
>
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 8:34 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Re-sail in Annapolis will give you a duffel bag.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 7:02 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> www.seabags.com
>
> If your sails are large enough they will make you a tote bag for free.  We
> had a great experience with them
>
>
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
> Buscaglia via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 12:52 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia
> Subject: Stus-List Options for getting rid of sails
>
> Sailvation Army?
>
> Typoed from my iPhone
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> Alera 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> O 206.463.9200 <(206)%20463-9200>
> C 305.409.3660 <(305)%20409-3660>
> Skype - thombusc
>
>
>
> > On Mar 25, 2017, at 8:03 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 

Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

If you’re 30 miles offshore, maybe a PFD is prolonging the agony.

But I know of one person who went overboard in Tampa Bay with a lifejacket and 
no harness. He was glad to have it. It kept him afloat for the 20 minutes or so 
it took for the boat to turn around and fetch him.

In the nearshore/bay/lake/river conditions that many of us sail regularly, it’s 
very possible to get rescued by a passing boat as long as you can stay afloat 
for a time. When I was a newspaper reporter in South Florida, it happened 
periodically in Biscayne Bay.

If I were being dragged with my lifejacket/harness on, I would cut the line 
connecting me to the boat with the knife I always carry and take my chances on 
a passing boat.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.






From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 6:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Goodyear
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

Agreed (don't go over), but if you do fall in the water, don't wear a PFD that 
won't help...

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 7:36 AM, BillBinaList via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  If you are being dragged in the water, you are probably dead, or soon to be 
regardless of being face up or face down, or if the boat gets turned around and 
manages to even locate you. Set up your jacklines, etc, as if the water is 
really molten lava. Chances of recovery of someone who goes overboard with a 
full crew aboard are statistically VERY low no matter what, and if you are a 
single-hander, then your chances are essentially non-existent. Plan accordingly.


  Bill Bina




  On 3/29/2017 7:22 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List wrote:

Just a thought on the foam pfd's; if they are water ski/kayak activity 
vests, they probably won't keep you face up if you are unconscious (and not 
being dragged through the water by the jacklines).

Tim
Ex 35/3






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  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!






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---
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Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Agreed (don't go over), but if you do fall in the water, don't wear a PFD
that won't help...

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 7:36 AM, BillBinaList via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you are being dragged in the water, you are probably dead, or soon to
> be regardless of being face up or face down, or if the boat gets turned
> around and manages to even locate you. Set up your jacklines, etc, as if
> the water is really molten lava. Chances of recovery of someone who goes
> overboard with a full crew aboard are statistically VERY low no matter
> what, and if you are a single-hander, then your chances are essentially
> non-existent. Plan accordingly.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 3/29/2017 7:22 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Just a thought on the foam pfd's; if they are water ski/kayak activity
> vests, they probably won't keep you face up if you are unconscious (and not
> being dragged through the water by the jacklines).
>
> Tim
> Ex 35/3
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Paint

[Dave via CnC-List]

Others will surely disagree, but I Am not convinced that expensive marine stuff 
is needed for this application, and may actually be a disadvantage from a 
maintenance point of view.  I bought some valspar premium enamel, gloss white, 
#565000 and it's matching primer, from Home Depot or Canadian tire or similar, 
and used that to paint the inside of a dinghy.   it has stood up well, despite 
water, UV, etc.   Have also used to paint inside lockers etc where I did 
glassworks.   Clean and bright and seems to be tough.   

Paint tech has come a long way

Dave.   
33-2



Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 29, 2017, at 4:05 PM, bruce  wrote:
> 
> Looking for a good quality paint to paint the inside of the sail lockers, and 
> other such areas.  Bright and Clean.  Ideas please.
>  
>  
> Bruce
> C 27 Mk III
> Asterie
> Montreal, Quebec
>  
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Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights w/ VHB tape & Dow 795

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Amazon is my source for VHB. A little cheaper and no charge 2 day shipping
if you are a Prime member. McMaster-Carr is great for lots of other stuff
though!

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 10:00 AM Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi,
>
> A great source for VHB tape and Dow 795 is McMaster-Carr.  You can
> purchase VHB tape in rolls of length 5, 15 and 36 yds at great prices.
>
> Rather than VHB #4991, I suggest using VHB #5952 which is designed for
> adhering to hard-to-bond surfaces, such
> as nylon, rigid vinyl, polypropylene, polystyrene, ABS, and powder-coated
> surfaces.  VHB #4991 is recommended for stainless steel, aluminum, glass, and
> sealed wood surface, but does not list any plastics.
>
> I used VHB #5952 on my fixed ports, and it has worked out great.  Here is
> a link to write up:
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts
>
>
> One can also get 10oz tubes of Dow 795 for $9/tube at McMaster-Carr
> (McMaster # 7452A21)
>
> VHB tapes:
> https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/3505/=16ytix4
>
> VHB #4991 is listed on the page under:  3M Very-High-Bond Foam Tape with
> Adhesive on Both Sides
>
> VHB #5952 is listed on the page under:  3M Very-High-Bond Foam Tape with
> Adhesive on Both Sides for Hard-to-Bond Surfaces
>
>
>
> Dow 795:
> https://www.mcmaster.com/#dow-corning-795-adhesives/sealants/=16ytiq2
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> On Mar 29, 2017, at 12:21 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 09:05:46 -0700
> From: svpegasus38 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C
> 37/40+
> Message-ID: <6y2308qu05qo0iyl92gqee2w.1490803546...@email.android.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> You want the 3M VHB 4991 0.091 thick. Amazon has it for $70 a 15yd roll. I
> used the 1/2 inch wide for my port lights. Use a helper when installing,
> you get 1 chance at it. Don't ask how I know this.?
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy?POYC?Pegasus?Lf38?
>  Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 3/29/17  06:20  (GMT-08:00) To:
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Kevin Driscoll

Associate
Vallaster Corl Architects, Inc.
Direct: 503 875 3493

Main: 503.228.0311
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Re: Stus-List Windlass placement

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I always use a snubber/bridle line and then relax the chain.  With the chain 
relaxed, the locker lid easily opens.  In fact, initially I would open the 
locker lid and leave it open during the retrieval of the anchor.  I was 
concerned about chain pile up, and so I would watch it.  I haven’t had any 
troubles, so I don’t watch it anymore.  At the bow, I also have a short Dyneema 
line with a deck attachment and a clip for hooking the chain when the anchor is 
on the bow.  

I have a photo of my snubber at: 
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2016/08/ground-tackle.html 


Unfortunately, I don’t have a good photo of the snubber/bridle in action.



-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Mar 29, 2017, at 3:58 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 15:26:00 -0400
> From: Allen Miles >
> To: CNC >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass placement
> Message-ID:
>   

Re: Stus-List Defender sale is live!

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Anyone heading to Defenders sale this weekend, I'll be working in the cut 
goods/rope/dock lines/ mooring pendants area tomorrow through Sunday.  Stop by 
and introduce yourself and we can talk about our boats!
Chuck Gilchrest 
Novabraid USA
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 29, 2017, at 2:39 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The website sale prices went live at 2:00.
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Of course many of you know this, but modern tethers have a snap shackle
type connection at the lifejacket / harness for release under load (if
being dragged for example). This required for offshore racing. Also,
checkout Landfall Navigation  for
safety equipment. IMO their prices are consistently lower in this
department.

FWIW, Safety equipment gets better and/or cheaper every single season.
Safety procedures are also evolving every single season thanks to the
rigorous studies of accidents and fatalities through by our more
accomplished sailing peers. This is one area where I believe there is
little to gain and potentially a lot to lose, by not letting your equipment
and your practice of safety/good Seamanship evolve with the times.

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017, 4:37 AM BillBinaList via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

If you are being dragged in the water, you are probably dead, or soon to be
regardless of being face up or face down, or if the boat gets turned around
and manages to even locate you. Set up your jacklines, etc, as if the water
is really molten lava. Chances of recovery of someone who goes overboard
with a full crew aboard are statistically VERY low no matter what, and if
you are a single-hander, then your chances are essentially non-existent.
Plan accordingly.

Bill Bina

On 3/29/2017 7:22 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List wrote:

Just a thought on the foam pfd's; if they are water ski/kayak activity
vests, they probably won't keep you face up if you are unconscious (and not
being dragged through the water by the jacklines).

Tim
Ex 35/3



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Re: Stus-List Paint

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I like Interlux Bilgecoat. Comes in gray or white.


Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 4:05 PM, bruce via CnC-List 
wrote:

> *Looking for a good quality paint to paint the inside of the sail lockers,
> and other such areas.  Bright and Clean.  Ideas please.*
>
>
>
>
>
> *Bruce*
>
> *C 27 Mk III*
>
> *Asterie *
>
> *Montreal, Quebec*
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Paint

[David Castor via CnC-List]

Don Casey recommends exterior house paint - alkyd enamel.

Dave

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 1:05 PM, bruce via CnC-List 
wrote:

> *Looking for a good quality paint to paint the inside of the sail lockers,
> and other such areas.  Bright and Clean.  Ideas please.*
>
>
>
>
>
> *Bruce*
>
> *C 27 Mk III*
>
> *Asterie *
>
> *Montreal, Quebec*
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Paint

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I used Interlux BilgeKote.  Holding up well.  BIG caveat.  Preparation is
90% of the job.  Clean the surfaces really well before applying.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 3:05 PM, bruce via CnC-List 
wrote:

> *Looking for a good quality paint to paint the inside of the sail lockers,
> and other such areas.  Bright and Clean.  Ideas please.*
>
>
>
>
>
> *Bruce*
>
> *C 27 Mk III*
>
> *Asterie *
>
> *Montreal, Quebec*
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Paint

[bruce via CnC-List]

Looking for a good quality paint to paint the inside of the sail lockers, and 
other such areas.  Bright and Clean.  Ideas please.


Bruce
C 27 Mk III
Asterie
Montreal, Quebec

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Re: Stus-List Defender sale is live!

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Great! The Defender Sale!! 

… or as my wife calls it: 



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 



> On Mar 29, 2017, at 2:39 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The website sale prices went live at 2:00.
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___

___

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Windlass placement

[Allen Miles via CnC-List]

I like the cleanliness of the installation, but is there a way to mount a
windlass that doesn't have the chain running over the locker and
effectively closing it off?  I normally store two anchor rodes in the
locker and want access to the second where the bottom dictates.

Allen Miles
S/v Septima 30-2
Hampton, VA

On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 3:30 PM, David Blair via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Excellent pics and step by step. I am thinking through the same process
> for my 34+. When I reviewed the build file for my boat I found that C had
> put some sort of high strength synthetic reinforcement in place of the
> balsa for about a foot back of the hatch, so hopefully sealing core will
> not be required.  Thanks.  Ciao
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dreuge
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, March 27, 2017 12:32 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Dreuge
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Windlass placement
>
>
>
> Sorry, here is the direct link:
>
>
>
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2016/08/windlass-installation.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
>
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
> On Mar 27, 2017, at 3:21 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>
>
> Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 12:51:46 -0500
> From: Frederick G Street 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass placement
> Message-ID: <765d7fd3-fb2d-43db-8715-b4965e1d9...@postaudio.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Paul ? I?d like to see your install photos; but the link below doesn?t let
> me in.
>
> ? Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Defender sale is live!

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

The website sale prices went live at 2:00.

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Beckson port gasket install wtf - never mind

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Found the manufacturer instructions.
Don't know why I didn't find them when I looked yesterday.

Steve

 Steve Thomas via CnC-List  wrote: 

What is the trick to installing a new gasket in a Beckson opening port?
I bought a new screen and gasket for the stock port in the head, and have so 
far been unsuccessful in getting the rubber "lip" into the groove. (The screen 
was a no brainer.) I read online about stretching it, and leaving it in the 
sun, and so on to make it long enough to go around, but I am having trouble 
getting it started. There has to be some method to this. 

Steve Thomas
C
C MKIII


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Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights w/ VHB tape & Dow 795

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

A great source for VHB tape and Dow 795 is McMaster-Carr.  You can purchase VHB 
tape in rolls of length 5, 15 and 36 yds at great prices.

Rather than VHB #4991, I suggest using VHB #5952 which is designed for adhering 
to hard-to-bond surfaces, such as nylon, rigid vinyl, polypropylene, 
polystyrene, ABS, and powder-coated surfaces.  VHB #4991 is recommended for 
stainless steel, aluminum, glass, and sealed wood surface, but does not list 
any plastics.

I used VHB #5952 on my fixed ports, and it has worked out great.  Here is a 
link to write up:
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts 



One can also get 10oz tubes of Dow 795 for $9/tube at McMaster-Carr (McMaster # 
7452A21)

VHB tapes:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/3505/=16ytix4 


VHB #4991 is listed on the page under:  3M Very-High-Bond Foam Tape with 
Adhesive on Both Sides

VHB #5952 is listed on the page under:  3M Very-High-Bond Foam Tape with 
Adhesive on Both Sides for Hard-to-Bond Surfaces



Dow 795:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#dow-corning-795-adhesives/sealants/=16ytiq2 




-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Mar 29, 2017, at 12:21 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 09:05:46 -0700
> From: svpegasus38 >
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C
>   37/40+
> Message-ID: <6y2308qu05qo0iyl92gqee2w.1490803546...@email.android.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> You want the 3M VHB 4991 0.091 thick. Amazon has it for $70 a 15yd roll. I 
> used the 1/2 inch wide for my port lights. Use a helper when installing, you 
> get 1 chance at it. Don't ask how I know this.?
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy?POYC?Pegasus?Lf38?
>  Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
> > Date: 3/29/17  06:20  
> (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  Cc: 
> "Matthew L. Wolford" > Subject: 
> Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+ 

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Stus-List Beckson port gasket install wtf

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

What is the trick to installing a new gasket in a Beckson opening port?
I bought a new screen and gasket for the stock port in the head, and have so 
far been unsuccessful in getting the rubber "lip" into the groove. (The screen 
was a no brainer.) I read online about stretching it, and leaving it in the 
sun, and so on to make it long enough to go around, but I am having trouble 
getting it started. There has to be some method to this. 

Steve Thomas
C
C MKIII


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Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed port lights 37/40+

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

RV'ers will know of this tape sealant product made by Dicor.
https://dicorproducts.com/product/diseal-patch-sealing-tape/#specs
I'm not suggesting this product as a permanent fix although it will last a
while on top of RV's where the external surfaces need complete and total
protection.  I have this product covering the seams of my Lance truck
camper.

If one were very handy with an exacto knife and cutting radii with a
template, it might be pretty nice.  If the offset (overlap) was uniform in
the profile, it would almost look like an intended trim.

Bill Dakin
25MKII
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine SeaTalk Cables

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Okay, Edd, I’ll bite…   :^)

The cable going from the backbone to the MFD is a “spur” cable; as long as the 
backbone is properly terminated (you were planning on properly putting 
terminators on each end of the SeaTalkNG backbone, right?), leaving a spur 
disconnected shouldn’t cause any issues.  Besides, the network most likely 
won’t be powered up with the MFD disconnected.  Just be sure to protect the 
connectors from rain, salt air, etc. when the MFD is below.  A Zip-Loc or the 
like would be a good idea.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 29, 2017, at 9:40 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> As soon as it warms up just a little more, I’ll be installing a Raymarine MFD 
> on the Enterprise and connect it to my Steering Under Linear Utility (You, 
> know — SULU) Raymarine Autopilot.
> 
> So here’s the thing: I don’t want to leave the MFD outdoors and connected 
> when off the boat (after all, it is the Bronx.) Instead, I’ll have the 
> power/data cable and the SeaTalk cable at the helm and then connect them to 
> the MFD (which I’ll store below) when I get on board. 
> 
> While I know there is no issue with the power/data cable, is there a problem 
> with having a cable connected to the SeaTalk network on one end without being 
> connected to anything on the other? 
> 
> I bet Fred Street knows — Always value his Street-Smarts. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Raymarine SeaTalk Cables

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

As soon as it warms up just a little more, I’ll be installing a Raymarine MFD 
on the Enterprise and connect it to my Steering Under Linear Utility (You, know 
— SULU) Raymarine Autopilot.

So here’s the thing: I don’t want to leave the MFD outdoors and connected when 
off the boat (after all, it is the Bronx.) Instead, I’ll have the power/data 
cable and the SeaTalk cable at the helm and then connect them to the MFD (which 
I’ll store below) when I get on board. 

While I know there is no issue with the power/data cable, is there a problem 
with having a cable connected to the SeaTalk network on one end without being 
connected to anything on the other? 

I bet Fred Street knows — Always value his Street-Smarts. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 








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Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

That is true, many different options.  I would look for 1/8 or 3/16ths
thick and the highest PSI rating.  As I recall 140psi is the highest.  If I
had to choose, it would be higher psi over higher thickness.

One of the concerns which has to be dealt with if choosing only 795 sealant
is that the curvature of the window will push sealant out of the middle of
the glass and leave it thicker at the ends.  The use of spacers is required.

Whenever using the sealant, mask, mask, mask.  Contour and clean the
sealant in the joint.  Only then should you remove the mask.  Pull at an
acute angle and away from the joint.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mar 29, 2017 9:21 AM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks, Josh.
>
> According to Uline, which sells VHB tape, there many different varieties.
>
> https://www.uline.com/Grp_240/3M-VHB-Tapes?pricode=WL937;
> utm_source=Bing_medium=cpc_term=3m%20vhb%20tape&
> utm_campaign=3M%20Tapes=3m%20vhb%20tape&
> AdMatchtype=e=CKm76qbm-9ICFWqbMgod3KQJTw=ds
>
> Suggestions regarding the right one?
>
>
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 6:42 PM
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C
> 37/40+
>
> I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape
> of any type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final
> repair more difficult.  Silicone makes everything it touches nearly
> impervious to any other adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes
> will break down after a short period of time resulting in a messy residue
> which will necessitate the used of a goo remover which may, like silicone,
> make future adhesives ineffective.
>
> "Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip."
>
> The "right" way is generally accepted to be 3M VHB tape followed by Dow
> 795 to seal the edges.  Mechanical fasteners would seemingly improve the
> longevity of the seal but destroy the look and would likely prove to have
> unforseen disadvantages.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Mar 28, 2017 4:43 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?  Caulk/adhesive,
> mechanical fasteners, or both?
>
> *From:* Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Franklin Schenk 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C
> 37/40+
>
> Bruce,
>
> Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.
> Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.
> Later you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.
>
> Frank
>
>
> On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when
> the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous
> owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being
> said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work better
> than what the PO used.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello again everyone,
>
> Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
> windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many
> seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or
> similar).
>
> I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them
> for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually
> replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to
> stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.
>
> Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply
> attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and
> apply a bead of Dow 795?
>
> Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?
>
> Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> __ _
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/
> stumurray 
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, 

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Thanks.

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 9:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

Matthew — I used this: 

  1/2” gray 4991 from McMaster Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8127a77/=11qrjgk

It has held up well, and was easy to install; so long as get it in the right 
place before you stick it down…   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

  On Mar 29, 2017, at 8:20 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Thanks, Josh.

  According to Uline, which sells VHB tape, there many different varieties.

  
https://www.uline.com/Grp_240/3M-VHB-Tapes?pricode=WL937_source=Bing_medium=cpc_term=3m%20vhb%20tape_campaign=3M%20Tapes=3m%20vhb%20tape=e=CKm76qbm-9ICFWqbMgod3KQJTw=ds

  Suggestions regarding the right one?




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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Matthew — I used this:

> 1/2” gray 4991 from McMaster Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8127a77/=11qrjgk 
> 
It has held up well, and was easy to install; so long as get it in the right 
place before you stick it down…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 29, 2017, at 8:20 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks, Josh.
>  
> According to Uline, which sells VHB tape, there many different varieties.
>  
> https://www.uline.com/Grp_240/3M-VHB-Tapes?pricode=WL937_source=Bing_medium=cpc_term=3m%20vhb%20tape_campaign=3M%20Tapes=3m%20vhb%20tape=e=CKm76qbm-9ICFWqbMgod3KQJTw=ds
>  
> 
>  
> Suggestions regarding the right one?

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Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Thanks, Josh.

According to Uline, which sells VHB tape, there many different varieties.

https://www.uline.com/Grp_240/3M-VHB-Tapes?pricode=WL937_source=Bing_medium=cpc_term=3m%20vhb%20tape_campaign=3M%20Tapes=3m%20vhb%20tape=e=CKm76qbm-9ICFWqbMgod3KQJTw=ds

Suggestions regarding the right one?


From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 6:42 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape of any 
type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final repair more 
difficult.  Silicone makes everything it touches nearly impervious to any other 
adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes will break down after a short 
period of time resulting in a messy residue which will necessitate the used of 
a goo remover which may, like silicone, make future adhesives ineffective. 

"Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip."


The "right" way is generally accepted to be 3M VHB tape followed by Dow 795 to 
seal the edges.  Mechanical fasteners would seemingly improve the longevity of 
the seal but destroy the look and would likely prove to have unforseen 
disadvantages.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mar 28, 2017 4:43 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

  Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?  Caulk/adhesive, 
mechanical fasteners, or both?

  From: Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Franklin Schenk 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

  Bruce,


  Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.  
Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.  Later 
you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.


  Frank



  On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 wrote:




  I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when 
the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous owner 
tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being said, DOW 795 
is much better than the typical silicone and may work better than what the PO 
used. 

  Gary
  S/V Kaylarah
  '90 C 37+
  East Greenwich, RI, USA

  ~~~_/)~~



  On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello again everyone,

Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights 
windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many 
seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar).  

I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them 
for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually 
replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop 
all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.  

Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply 
attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply 
a bead of Dow 795?  

Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?  

Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?  

Thanks! 


Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


__ _

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wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



  ___

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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





--

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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!






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Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

If you are being dragged in the water, you are probably dead, or soon to 
be regardless of being face up or face down, or if the boat gets turned 
around and manages to even locate you. Set up your jacklines, etc, as if 
the water is really molten lava. Chances of recovery of someone who goes 
overboard with a full crew aboard are statistically VERY low no matter 
what, and if you are a single-hander, then your chances are essentially 
non-existent. Plan accordingly.


Bill Bina


On 3/29/2017 7:22 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List wrote:
Just a thought on the foam pfd's; if they are water ski/kayak activity 
vests, they probably won't keep you face up if you are unconscious 
(and not being dragged through the water by the jacklines).


Tim
Ex 35/3




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Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Just a thought on the foam pfd's; if they are water ski/kayak 
activity vests, they probably won't keep you face up if you are unconscious 
(and not being dragged through the water by the jacklines).
TimEx 35/3









On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 6:46 AM -0400, "Graham Young via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.  Your sharing of your 
experience and expertise is much appreciated.  I know it's what we do here but 
thanks just the same :) 

On Monday, March 27, 2017 3:48 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:
  

 

 




+ 1 on what Joe said.
 
If you read on the topic, most people (at least those who have some experience) 
agree that you should treat the toe rail as a 200 m cliff. The idea is not how 
to get back to the boat, but how to make sure that you never leave it.
 
Marek


 









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Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[Graham Young via CnC-List]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.  Your sharing of your 
experience and expertise is much appreciated.  I know it's what we do here but 
thanks just the same :) 

On Monday, March 27, 2017 3:48 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

  + 1 on what Joe said. If you read on the topic, most people (at least those 
who have some experience) agree that you should treat the toe rail as a 200 m 
cliff. The idea is not how to get back to the boat, but how to make sure that 
you never leave it. Marek ___

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
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Re: Stus-List Emergency tiller refinement

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Final tweaks of captive tool stowage (wrenches) complete for those
interested.

On 26 March 2017 at 15:33, Dave S  wrote:

> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2017/03/c-33ii-emergency-
> tiller-refinements.html
>
> Dave
> 33ii windstar
>
>
>
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