Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Dave,
I have to confess that I rebed my original hatch to stop a leak and ended up 
through bolting it and used acorn nuts. Wish I hadn't. Looks bad and I do keep 
hitting my head. Wish I knew of butyl tape when I did the job.
Dave. Kaseler
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 26, 2017, at 2:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and 
> experiences here.
> 
> I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and 
> am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle 
> hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The 
> original hatch used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a 
> dope…) #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No 
> through-bolting. Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus 
> years
> 
> The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws 
> and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my 
> overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the 
> v-berth.
> 
> So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]



~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 10:08 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Most people who do get arrested…   :^)
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Sep 26, 2017, at 8:44 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  I could never live with exposed nuts.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Most people who do get arrested…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 26, 2017, at 8:44 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  I could never live with exposed nuts.

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Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I installed the Ocean 60 series hatches on Expresso (C 35 Mk II) and used
butyl tape and sheet metal screws.  They never leaked after 13 years.  I
could never live with exposed nuts.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 5:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and
> experiences here.
>
> I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year
> and am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the
> Atkins-Hoyle hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the
> decks. The original hatch used what are I believe (threw away all the
> originals like a dope…) #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into
> the deck. No through-bolting. Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well
> for 30-plus years
>
> The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine
> screws and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts
> through my overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking
> upwards in the v-berth.
>
> So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[Tom Jacobs via CnC-List]

Dave 

Did the same on our 37 Amazing Grace about five years ago. Used new screws, no 
bolts. Invested time in digging out the minor amount of open weak wood. There 
was no rot but around the screws has some gaps and would not have held the 
screws with out solid filling. After filling with epoxy leveled the surface 
better than original to allow a consistent fill of sealant. I think we used 
butyl rubber from a tube. Still working in San Diego, no leaks. 

Sent from my iPhone

972-849-4730



> On Sep 26, 2017, at 2:17 PM, Dave Godwin  wrote:
> 
> So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and 
> experiences here.
> 
> I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and 
> am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle 
> hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The 
> original hatch used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a 
> dope…) #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No 
> through-bolting. Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus 
> years
> 
> The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws 
> and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my 
> overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the 
> v-berth.
> 
> So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
> 
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Re: Stus-List How long do zinc last

[Vince Pietrantonio via CnC-List]

I purchased my first sailboat, C 24 built in 1984.  Looking for Bimini top, 
live in the Burlington On area.

Thanks,

Vince


Sent from my BlackBerry - the most secure mobile device - via the Bell Network
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: September 26, 2017 7:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-to: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dpcas...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How long do zinc last


My boat is in the marina at Port Angeles. Checked shaft anodes at 12 months and 
they were gone. Diver told me to expect 6 months max. I do have galvanic 
isolator.

On Mon, Sep 25, 2017 at 8:15 PM svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I hauled my new-to-me boat not long ago. Only to find the new zinc I had my 
diver put on 2 weeks prior were over 25% gone. Something deffintly amiss here. 
I checked for stray voltage between the neutral on the shore power cord and the 
water I had 0.65 volts. Is this high or about normal?

 To my knowledge I don't have a galvanic isolator. It is on the ever expanding 
list. I know that I have some wiring issues on the DC side. Mostly poor wiring 
techniques.
I also have what appears to be some sort of coil/transformer in line on the 
output cable from the alternator.  Just the alternator cables and a ground 
(black) wire. Anybody familiar with this?


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
POYC
Pegasus (for sale)
Lf38
Rebecca Leah LF39
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Excuse the brevity. Sent from my phone.
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Re: Stus-List How long do zinc last

[David Castor via CnC-List]

My boat is in the marina at Port Angeles. Checked shaft anodes at 12 months
and they were gone. Diver told me to expect 6 months max. I do have
galvanic isolator.

On Mon, Sep 25, 2017 at 8:15 PM svpegasus38 via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I hauled my new-to-me boat not long ago. Only to find the new zinc I had
> my diver put on 2 weeks prior were over 25% gone. Something deffintly amiss
> here. I checked for stray voltage between the neutral on the shore power
> cord and the water I had 0.65 volts. Is this high or about normal?
>
>  To my knowledge I don't have a galvanic isolator. It is on the ever
> expanding list. I know that I have some wiring issues on the DC side.
> Mostly poor wiring techniques.
> I also have what appears to be some sort of coil/transformer in line on
> the output cable from the alternator.  Just the alternator cables and a
> ground (black) wire. Anybody familiar with this?
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy
> POYC
> Pegasus (for sale)
> Lf38
> Rebecca Leah LF39
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Excuse the brevity. Sent from my phone.
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Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Dave, Is there no headliner?  I just replaced 6 hatches in my boat.  All the 
hatches are framed below with teak.  I made sure the bolts were sunk and the 
teak covered everything.  On my last boat I lived with the exposed nuts and 
washers.  I dressed them up a bit with cap nuts.  That also helps if you happen 
to hit your head around end of the bolts. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/26/17  5:17 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dave Godwin  Subject: Stus-List 
Hatch replacement experiences. 
So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and 
experiences here.
I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and am 
now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch 
that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch 
used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14 
stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. 
Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years
The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws 
and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my 
overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the 
v-berth.
So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit


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Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I replaced my hatch on Pegasus with the lewmar ocean hatch. None of the holes 
matched. I plugged and refilled new holes. Used #12 or 14 (can't remember)  
sheet metal screws and butyl tape. Like you I did not nuts hanging down to 
crack my head on. That's the way the original was installed, and it held for 
30+ years. Must be ok. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 Date: 9/26/17  14:49  (GMT-08:00) To: CnClist 
 Cc: "Dennis C."  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences. 
Dave,
I haven't done exactly what you describe but have done similar work.  If it was 
me, I'd fill the old holes with thickened epoxy and go with the #12 fasteners.
You didn't say if the new bolt pattern completely or partially overlaid the A 
hatch.  If it matches, overbore and fill.
In fact, if you overbored and filled regardless you'd probably end up with a 
strong bond.  My thinking is that the deck is only 1/4-3/8 inch or so.  So the 
fastener is only grabbing that much.  If you overbore carefully down to the top 
of the headliner and fill with thickened epoxy, you'll have a plug that is 
thicker than the original deck.  More material for the fastener to grab.  
Measure the depth of the hole before you fill so you'll have a good idea of 
what length fastener to use.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 wrote:
So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and 
experiences here.
I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and am 
now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch 
that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch 
used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14 
stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. 
Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years
The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws 
and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my 
overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the 
v-berth.
So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Dave,

I haven't done exactly what you describe but have done similar work.  If it
was me, I'd fill the old holes with thickened epoxy and go with the #12
fasteners.

You didn't say if the new bolt pattern completely or partially overlaid the
A hatch.  If it matches, overbore and fill.

In fact, if you overbored and filled regardless you'd probably end up with
a strong bond.  My thinking is that the deck is only 1/4-3/8 inch or so.
So the fastener is only grabbing that much.  If you overbore carefully down
to the top of the headliner and fill with thickened epoxy, you'll have a
plug that is thicker than the original deck.  More material for the
fastener to grab.  Measure the depth of the hole before you fill so you'll
have a good idea of what length fastener to use.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and
> experiences here.
>
> I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year
> and am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the
> Atkins-Hoyle hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the
> decks. The original hatch used what are I believe (threw away all the
> originals like a dope…) #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into
> the deck. No through-bolting. Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well
> for 30-plus years
>
> The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine
> screws and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts
> through my overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking
> upwards in the v-berth.
>
> So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and 
experiences here.

I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and am 
now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch 
that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch 
used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14 
stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. 
Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years

The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws 
and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my 
overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the 
v-berth.

So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
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Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 2:07 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Boats I have seen cut into disposable pieces were cut with a sawzall.  I
> have seen this happen to a Ranger 26 and a Cal 29.  I don’t know why a 43
> would be much different – it would just take longer.  It’s a shame to see.
>
> My Custom 42 had extensive core wet core problems which took about two
> years to repair.  The 43 looks very similar to my boat.
>
> *From:* Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 26, 2017 10:47 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Violeta M Ivanova 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for
> free
>
> The MIT bluewater wiki was created and is maintained by MIT volunteers. I
> updated a lot of stuff last year, but have not touched it since last
> December. I have not seen XD this year. I don't know how much has changed
> on the boat and what was reflected on the wiki.
>
> More importantly, if people look at the wiki for reference, the following
> items will *not* be included with the boat:
>
> Handheld VHF radio
> Lifejackets and harnesses
> Dinghy
> MOB light and mount
> Storm jib
> Tools
> Ship's supplies (nuts, bolts, wire, tape, etc.)
> Jacklines
> Buckets
> One of the floating winch handles (one will stay on the boat)
> Foul weather gear
> AIS and splitter
> Radar reflector
> Laptop/iPads
> Chart plotting tools
> Canadian charts
> Garmin GPS
>
> Also, several people from the list have looked at the survey already. It
> seems XD is in worse shape than I'd thought. I am no expert on boat repairs
> -- I have never dealt with wet balsa core or anything like that. I am on
> this list because I am learning a lot from members with vastly more
> experience than I have. I very much appreciate people emailing me back with
> comments.
>
> Maybe someone on the list will acquire XD and we'll read more about it, or
> aybe someone else will acquire her, or maybe the boat will go to the
> cutter. Speaking of which ...
>
> How does one cut up a boat? Seriously, what do you do with a 43-foot boat,
> if you want to destroy it?
>
> I have started calling XD "it", not "she". I guess that's a goodbye.
>
> Violeta
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 23, 2017 at 1:20 PM, David via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> I know the donating owner.   Very much the engineer.  Not surprising.
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>>
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
>> Date: 9/22/17 8:28 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: CnC-List 
>> Cc: Lee Youngblood 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free
>>
>> Hi All,
>> I may be on the west coast, but check out the MIT/X Dimension wiki - as a
>> broker, I’ve never seen this much info, from an owner on their boat:
>> http://sailing.mit.edu/wiki/index.php/Systems_Descriptions#Anchors
>>
>> Wow, Lee
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>

After Katrina boats were pulled from the harbor, a back hoe or similar was
used to break them apart and then toss the pieces into a dumpster. Was very
fast and effective as the hulls and decks gave little resistance.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans, La
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Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Boats I have seen cut into disposable pieces were cut with a sawzall.  I have 
seen this happen to a Ranger 26 and a Cal 29.  I don’t know why a 43 would be 
much different – it would just take longer.  It’s a shame to see.

My Custom 42 had extensive core wet core problems which took about two years to 
repair.  The 43 looks very similar to my boat.

From: Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Violeta M Ivanova 
Subject: Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free

The MIT bluewater wiki was created and is maintained by MIT volunteers. I 
updated a lot of stuff last year, but have not touched it since last December. 
I have not seen XD this year. I don't know how much has changed on the boat and 
what was reflected on the wiki. 


More importantly, if people look at the wiki for reference, the following items 
will not be included with the boat: 

Handheld VHF radio
Lifejackets and harnesses
Dinghy
MOB light and mount
Storm jib
Tools
Ship's supplies (nuts, bolts, wire, tape, etc.)
Jacklines
Buckets
One of the floating winch handles (one will stay on the boat)
Foul weather gear
AIS and splitter
Radar reflector
Laptop/iPads
Chart plotting tools
Canadian charts
Garmin GPS


Also, several people from the list have looked at the survey already. It seems 
XD is in worse shape than I'd thought. I am no expert on boat repairs -- I have 
never dealt with wet balsa core or anything like that. I am on this list 
because I am learning a lot from members with vastly more experience than I 
have. I very much appreciate people emailing me back with comments. 

Maybe someone on the list will acquire XD and we'll read more about it, or aybe 
someone else will acquire her, or maybe the boat will go to the cutter. 
Speaking of which ...


How does one cut up a boat? Seriously, what do you do with a 43-foot boat, if 
you want to destroy it? 


I have started calling XD "it", not "she". I guess that's a goodbye. 


Violeta



On Sat, Sep 23, 2017 at 1:20 PM, David via CnC-List  
wrote:

  I know the donating owner.   Very much the engineer.  Not surprising.   



  Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


   Original message 
  From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List  
  Date: 9/22/17 8:28 PM (GMT-05:00) 
  To: CnC-List  
  Cc: Lee Youngblood  
  Subject: Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free 


  Hi All, 
  I may be on the west coast, but check out the MIT/X Dimension wiki - as a 
broker, I’ve never seen this much info, from an owner on their boat:  
http://sailing.mit.edu/wiki/index.php/Systems_Descriptions#Anchors

  Wow, Lee



  ___

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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!






___

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Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

They are keeping one winch handle?
Well there goes the deal, they can keep their boat and I guess their buckets 
too LOL

Joe
Coquina
(if I ever donate my boat, I will include *2* winch handles)  ☺

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Violeta M 
Ivanova via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Violeta M Ivanova 
Subject: Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free

The MIT bluewater wiki was created and is maintained by MIT volunteers. I 
updated a lot of stuff last year, but have not touched it since last December. 
I have not seen XD this year. I don't know how much has changed on the boat and 
what was reflected on the wiki.
More importantly, if people look at the wiki for reference, the following items 
will not be included with the boat:

Handheld VHF radio
Lifejackets and harnesses
Dinghy
MOB light and mount
Storm jib
Tools
Ship's supplies (nuts, bolts, wire, tape, etc.)
Jacklines
Buckets
One of the floating winch handles (one will stay on the boat)
Foul weather gear
AIS and splitter
Radar reflector
Laptop/iPads
Chart plotting tools
Canadian charts
Garmin GPS

Also, several people from the list have looked at the survey already. It seems 
XD is in worse shape than I'd thought. I am no expert on boat repairs -- I have 
never dealt with wet balsa core or anything like that. I am on this list 
because I am learning a lot from members with vastly more experience than I 
have. I very much appreciate people emailing me back with comments.

Maybe someone on the list will acquire XD and we'll read more about it, or aybe 
someone else will acquire her, or maybe the boat will go to the cutter. 
Speaking of which ...
How does one cut up a boat? Seriously, what do you do with a 43-foot boat, if 
you want to destroy it?
I have started calling XD "it", not "she". I guess that's a goodbye.

Violeta


On Sat, Sep 23, 2017 at 1:20 PM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I know the donating owner.   Very much the engineer.  Not surprising.



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
>
Date: 9/22/17 8:28 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: CnC-List >
Cc: Lee Youngblood 
>
Subject: Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free
Hi All,
I may be on the west coast, but check out the MIT/X Dimension wiki - as a 
broker, I’ve never seen this much info, from an owner on their boat:  
http://sailing.mit.edu/wiki/index.php/Systems_Descriptions#Anchors

Wow, Lee



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Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free

[Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List]

The MIT bluewater wiki was created and is maintained by MIT volunteers. I
updated a lot of stuff last year, but have not touched it since last
December. I have not seen XD this year. I don't know how much has changed
on the boat and what was reflected on the wiki.

More importantly, if people look at the wiki for reference, the following
items will *not* be included with the boat:

Handheld VHF radio
Lifejackets and harnesses
Dinghy
MOB light and mount
Storm jib
Tools
Ship's supplies (nuts, bolts, wire, tape, etc.)
Jacklines
Buckets
One of the floating winch handles (one will stay on the boat)
Foul weather gear
AIS and splitter
Radar reflector
Laptop/iPads
Chart plotting tools
Canadian charts
Garmin GPS

Also, several people from the list have looked at the survey already. It
seems XD is in worse shape than I'd thought. I am no expert on boat repairs
-- I have never dealt with wet balsa core or anything like that. I am on
this list because I am learning a lot from members with vastly more
experience than I have. I very much appreciate people emailing me back with
comments.

Maybe someone on the list will acquire XD and we'll read more about it, or
aybe someone else will acquire her, or maybe the boat will go to the
cutter. Speaking of which ...

How does one cut up a boat? Seriously, what do you do with a 43-foot boat,
if you want to destroy it?

I have started calling XD "it", not "she". I guess that's a goodbye.

Violeta


On Sat, Sep 23, 2017 at 1:20 PM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I know the donating owner.   Very much the engineer.  Not surprising.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
> Date: 9/22/17 8:28 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: CnC-List 
> Cc: Lee Youngblood 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free
>
> Hi All,
> I may be on the west coast, but check out the MIT/X Dimension wiki - as a
> broker, I’ve never seen this much info, from an owner on their boat:
> http://sailing.mit.edu/wiki/index.php/Systems_Descriptions#Anchors
>
> Wow, Lee
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List update on 1987 c mkii - now dehumidifiers

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I keep two of these on Touche':

https://www.amazon.com/Caframo-Limited-Stor-Dry-Warm-Circulator/dp/B0009L675W

Run one during the warmer seasons and both during the colder seasons.
Weighs couple of pounds.  Easy to deal with.

Also have a night/day solar vent in head.  No mildew, musty odors, etc.

Touche' is on shore power year round.

The key is keeping the interior above the dew point.  When I arrive at the
boat and open it, the interior is always noticeably warmer than the ambient
temperature.

In colder climes, more heat may be needed to minimize condensation on the
ports, etc.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 7:23 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Matthew
>
>
>
> I have an Eva Dry mini dehumidifier on Persistence which is on all season
> long.  It is extremely small and lightweight and does not use a
> dehumidifier.  I leave on the counter in the galley when at dock and simply
> put it in the sink while sailing.  It is rated at 1 cup water removal per
> day and seems to work reasonably well.  Once upon a time we used to lug a
> full sized home dehumidifier on and off our previous boat every time we
> went sailing.  That was not fun.  The Eva Dry was a nice compromise.
>
>
>
> Link here at the store where I bought it:
>
> https://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9793
>
>
>
> Hope this is of some interest and use
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List update on 1987 c mkii - now dehumidifiers

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Matthew

I have an Eva Dry mini dehumidifier on Persistence which is on all season long. 
 It is extremely small and lightweight and does not use a dehumidifier.  I 
leave on the counter in the galley when at dock and simply put it in the sink 
while sailing.  It is rated at 1 cup water removal per day and seems to work 
reasonably well.  Once upon a time we used to lug a full sized home 
dehumidifier on and off our previous boat every time we went sailing.  That was 
not fun.  The Eva Dry was a nice compromise.

Link here at the store where I bought it:
https://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9793

Hope this is of some interest and use

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2017 11:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List update on 1987 c mkii

Standing water in the bilge during warm summer months will definitely make the 
boat stink.  The worst of the smell will likely go with the water when the 
bilge is pumped out.  There may be other areas (like bins) with stinky standing 
water.

Some water in the bilge when the boat is on the hard is not a huge issue, 
especially if the mast is stepped down below (which provides a path for 
rainwater).  There are undoubtedly some deck fitting drips as well, and the 
windows may leak (a common C issue).  There is a lot of good information on 
this list about re-bedding windows.

The “old boat smell” is probably mold/mildew.  It sounds like the boat needs a 
good scrubbing.  The cushions may hold on to the smell, which may not be 
curable (short of replacement).

On my old boat, which also came with an old boat smell, we scrubbed every inch, 
used chlorine-based cleaners where needed (be careful with this around fabrics 
and wood), and greatly improved air circulation by adding solar-powered fans to 
the forward hatches.  I have the luxury of leaving the boat at a dock with 
electric service, so I keep a fan running down below.  I also leave a 
dehumidifier running most of the time (which is a bit of a pain to keep 
removing and replacing when I take the boat out, and adds to the heat down 
below on warm days at the dock), and I plug in one of those Glade air 
fresheners into an outlet in the main salon.  This combination of things got 
rid of the old boat smell, and the Boss no longer mentions this issue.

Wet rudders are also common, but I’d want to know how it was fixed.  Some boat 
owners with this issue drill a hole near the bottom, let it drain during the 
off-season, then fill the hole before spring launch.  I took more aggressive 
action and dried mine out completely.

Bilge blowers are an absolute must on gasoline powered boats; not so much on 
diesel powered boats.  Still a good idea.  Probably about $150 to get one 
installed.

The chain plates should be easy to inspect and must be inspected.

The surveyor will likely tell you that he/she will not do a partial inspection 
on a three-year-old survey, especially since you were not the person who 
ordered the 2014 survey.  Arguing this point is probably a lost cause.  Make 
sure the surveyor knows how to use and interpret a moisture meter.  Not all 
surveyors are competent in this “art.”

Good luck!

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Re: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Indigo via CnC-List]

A friend of mine uses one on his j/109 after an expensive experience with his 
sail-drive. He clips the zinc "fish" to his backstay which I presume is 
grounded to the engine block. 

His boat was never at a dock, and he has not had a problem since (3+ years) but 
I understand that there are so many factors involved in electrolysis that we 
don't know if it was the fish working or some other change - perhaps on other 
boats nearby in the mooring field (fore and aft moorings so other boats are 
close!)

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 25, 2017, at 14:08, Alan Liles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Where do you connect overboard zincs? I would think directly to the shaft or 
> engine but the ones I've seen don't have a cable long enough for that. 
> 
> Cheers, Al
> 
> 
>> On Sep 25, 2017, at 10:44 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Overboard zincs make a lot of sense.  Great surface area for consumption, 
>> fast inspection and stowed quickly before leaving dock.
>> Bill Dakin
>> S/V Tapestry
>> 25MKII
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

That sounds about right.  There are a lot of variables in the equation though.  
I’ve been in the water six months as well and my zinc is probably 70% or less.  
I’m in a brackish river off the Chesapeake.  I usually don’t have to replace 
the zinc during the season.  By the time I haul out it is over 50% gone.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2017 10:46
To: C List 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged 
in to shore power

 

Hello all,

 

I just wanted to check in with  you folks.  For those of you who are in 
saltwater, on a dock, and plugged into shore power, how long would you expect 
to see your shaft zinc last?  I get a regular report from our diver, who, after 
about 6 months, indicated that the zinc is down to about 70% of new.

 

Thanks for the input,

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  

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