Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: radiator cap replacement

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I doubt 7 or 8 PSI will make any difference you would ever notice.
You can look up how the boiling point of the coolant increases with pressure, 
but an engine running under 212 degrees (for water, 223 for 50/50 mix coolant) 
wouldn't be pressurizing the coolant anyway because it would not boil even at 0 
PSI.  You gain 3 degrees per 1 PSI, so there is not much to worry about between 
7 and 8.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2018 8:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List radiator cap replacement

I replaced mine with an 8 psi cap. Honestly, I am not sure if it the right one. 
But, two seasons later my Perkins  (M20) is still working fine. My high temp is 
more like 185 - 190 F.

If you find info on what the opening pressure should be, I would like to know.

Marek



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


 Original message 
From: Eric Frank via CnC-List 
Date: 2018-06-07 16:45 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Eric Frank 
Subject: Stus-List radiator cap replacement

The radiator cap on my Perkins diesel engine (Perkins Perma M30, installed by 
the PO around 1982) is badly rusted.  It's easy to find a replacement that fits 
physically, but what opening pressure rating should it have? At 2000-3000 rpm, 
the temperature gauge reads about 175 F degrees.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List radiator cap replacement

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks, Rick.  Very helpful. I downloaded the manual.
Eric

Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2018 20:09:17 -0400
From: "Rick Taillieu" mailto:rtailli...@cogeco.ca>>
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List radiator cap replacement
Message-ID: <000b01d3febc$f137a960$d3a6fc20$@ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Eric,
You can find a manual here 
https://www.manualslib.com/products/Perkins-Perama-M30-3618920.html 

It shows a 7 psi cap for your engine.
Rick Taillieu___

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Stus-List A2B Race

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Good luck to Joel Aronson (Atlantis, Hylas 44) and Jake Broderson (Midnight 
Mistress, C&C 35-III) of this list and their crew; they’ll be starting out in 
the Annapolis to Bermuda Race on Joel’s boat in a few hours.  You can follow 
their progress here: https://yachtscoring.com/race_tracking.cfm 
.

Good luck, guys — wish I were going along again this year!  Stay close to the 
rhumb line, and go north-about into St George’s this time…   :^)

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

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Re: Stus-List A2B Race

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Good luck, Joel!
Look for us on Masquerade if you're still there at the finish of the
Newport race.

Andy

On Fri, Jun 8, 2018 at 8:15 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good luck to Joel Aronson (*Atlantis*, Hylas 44) and Jake Broderson (*Midnight
> Mistress*, C&C 35-III) of this list and their crew; they’ll be starting
> out in the Annapolis to Bermuda Race on Joel’s boat in a few hours.  You
> can follow their progress here: https://yachtscoring.com/race_tracking.cfm
> .
>
> Good luck, guys — wish I were going along again this year!  Stay close to
> the rhumb line, and go north-about into St George’s this time…   :^)
>
> — Fred
>
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up

[Chuck Borge via CnC-List]

Josh, 
Thanks for jumping in. 

For reference, it looks like this diagram. 
The traveler is on the bridge deck. The problem is the purchase. I might add a 
triple at the top and move the double to the bottom. That will give me 3:1 
instead. But it doesn’t solve my wanting to trim the jib on the aft winches. 
Before I go buy a more traditional cascading set up like the Ronstan RP72900 
4:1/8:1, I want to think it out. 

Best,
Chuck


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 7, 2018, at 10:14 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Chuck,
> 
> Any chance you have some pictures?  I tried google and sailboatdata but can't 
> tell if your boat has a cabin top traveler or a cockpit traveler?
> 
> Just for clarity, are you having trouble trimming the traveler or the 
> mainsheet?
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
>> On Thu, Jun 7, 2018, 9:54 PM Chuck Borge via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi Listers,
>> 
>> Anyone with a C&C 41 have suggestions on a mainsheet set-up?
>> My new-to-me boat has a "German" mainsheet set-up that runs to the runner 
>> winches.  It's supposed to be the hot set-up but I'm not impressed. 
>> Since I'm using a 97% r/f jib, I find tacking that alone using the runner 
>> winches to be pretty easy, but what to do with the main?   Also the 2:1 
>> nature of the German set-up is not really that easy to trim, even with the 
>> winches.
>> I'm thinking I'd like a 4:1/8:1 more traditional set-up or a reasonable 
>> suggestion(?).
>> Thanks in advance for the help.
>> 
>> Chuck Borge
>> C&C 41 Tenacious
>> (formerly C&C 34 Elusive)
>> Somerset, MA
>> 508-642-3557
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

My boat came setup from the PO with a cabin top mainsheet control to a
cabin top winch.  It was painfully under powered even with the winch.  My
traveler is located in the cockpit on the aft edge of the forward bench.  I
had previously, on other boats, only ever used a 4:1 mainsheet which was
trimmed at the traveler.  A convenient setup for tacking with a limited
crew or singlehanded.

The PO had tried a 6:1 or 8:1 trimmed at the traveler but justifiably
complained that there was too much extra line to be tripped on and tangled
in the cockpit or thrown below in the cabin.

I had seen the stacked fiddle block setup that makes 3:1/6:1 or 4:1/8:1.
While innovative, I decided that the bulk of the line would still be under
foot in the cockpit 95% of the time.

I ended up designing a cascading system which gives me a 12:1 "tweaker"
which is readily available in the cockpit and a 3:1 which runs to the cabin
top winch for the deep down wind runs.  TBH the tweaker and the traveler
together usually give enough range for all but the deepest down wind runs.
Even though the 3:1 is terminated at a winch it is extremely rare that we
need to use it since the traveler and tweaker are available to make up for
that which the 3:1 cannot.

Based in your picture it appears that my setup may be useful on your boat.
Basically you would eliminate either the port or starboard control which
you currently have.  Install a 4:1 or 6:1 fiddle block between boom and
traveler, and have the free end now terminate with a cam cleat at the
traveler side.  With no other purchase changes it looks like a 4:1 could be
arranged to produce 5:1 compounded with the existing 2:1 and you would have
10:1.  With the compromise of more line on the deck you could push it to
12:1 or 14:1 with the application of a 6:1 instead.  Here is a link to some
pictures of my setup.  If you need more description or better pictures just
let me know.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yY3Qtbi1VSllwM3M

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Fri, Jun 8, 2018, 10:07 AM Chuck Borge via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh,
> Thanks for jumping in.
> [image: image1.gif]
> For reference, it looks like this diagram.
> The traveler is on the bridge deck. The problem is the purchase. I might
> add a triple at the top and move the double to the bottom. That will give
> me 3:1 instead. But it doesn’t solve my wanting to trim the jib on the aft
> winches.
> Before I go buy a more traditional cascading set up like the Ronstan
> RP72900 4:1/8:1, I want to think it out.
>
> Best,
> Chuck
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 7, 2018, at 10:14 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Chuck,
>
> Any chance you have some pictures?  I tried google and sailboatdata but
> can't tell if your boat has a cabin top traveler or a cockpit traveler?
>
> Just for clarity, are you having trouble trimming the traveler or the
> mainsheet?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Thu, Jun 7, 2018, 9:54 PM Chuck Borge via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Listers,
>>
>> Anyone with a C&C 41 have suggestions on a mainsheet set-up?
>> My new-to-me boat has a "German" mainsheet set-up that runs to the runner
>> winches.  It's supposed to be the hot set-up but I'm not impressed.
>> Since I'm using a 97% r/f jib, I find tacking that alone using the runner
>> winches to be pretty easy, but what to do with the main?   Also the 2:1
>> nature of the German set-up is not really that easy to trim, even with the
>> winches.
>> I'm thinking I'd like a 4:1/8:1 more traditional set-up or a reasonable
>> suggestion(?).
>> Thanks in advance for the help.
>>
>> *Chuck Borge*
>> *C&C 41 Tenacious*
>> *(formerly C&C 34 Elusive)*
>> *Somerset, MA*
>> *508-642-3557*
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck

I have seen your setup on a C&C 115.  The 115 typically has the main sheet on 
either side go directly from traveler to aft winches but on the 115 I mentioned 
it went along boom to mast and then down and back.

With your current setup could you not use the primaries for the main sheet when 
you wish to use the secondaries (aft winches) for your jib?

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Borge 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2018 11:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Borge
Subject: Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up

Josh,
Thanks for jumping in.
[image1.gif]
For reference, it looks like this diagram.
The traveler is on the bridge deck. The problem is the purchase. I might add a 
triple at the top and move the double to the bottom. That will give me 3:1 
instead. But it doesn’t solve my wanting to trim the jib on the aft winches.
Before I go buy a more traditional cascading set up like the Ronstan RP72900 
4:1/8:1, I want to think it out.

Best,
Chuck


Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 7, 2018, at 10:14 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Chuck,

Any chance you have some pictures?  I tried google and sailboatdata but can't 
tell if your boat has a cabin top traveler or a cockpit traveler?

Just for clarity, are you having trouble trimming the traveler or the mainsheet?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Jun 7, 2018, 9:54 PM Chuck Borge via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Listers,

Anyone with a C&C 41 have suggestions on a mainsheet set-up?
My new-to-me boat has a "German" mainsheet set-up that runs to the runner 
winches.  It's supposed to be the hot set-up but I'm not impressed.
Since I'm using a 97% r/f jib, I find tacking that alone using the runner 
winches to be pretty easy, but what to do with the main?   Also the 2:1 nature 
of the German set-up is not really that easy to trim, even with the winches.
I'm thinking I'd like a 4:1/8:1 more traditional set-up or a reasonable 
suggestion(?).
Thanks in advance for the help.

Chuck Borge
C&C 41 Tenacious
(formerly C&C 34 Elusive)
Somerset, MA
508-642-3557
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List mainsheet set-up

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

That's a great setup Josh.

Ours is a bear for similar reasons with even less leverage on the cabin-top
traveler.

So far we just grinned and beared it. I'll put something similar on the to
do list :-)

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia


My boat came setup from the PO with a cabin top mainsheet control to a
cabin top winch.  It was painfully under powered even with the winch.  My
traveler is located in the cockpit on the aft edge of the forward bench.  I
had previously, on other boats, only ever used a 4:1 mainsheet which was
trimmed at the traveler.  A convenient setup for tacking with a limited
crew or singlehanded.

The PO had tried a 6:1 or 8:1 trimmed at the traveler but justifiably
complained that there was too much extra line to be tripped on and tangled
in the cockpit or thrown below in the cabin.

I had seen the stacked fiddle block setup that makes 3:1/6:1 or 4:1/8:1.
While innovative, I decided that the bulk of the line would still be under
foot in the cockpit 95% of the time.

I ended up designing a cascading system which gives me a 12:1 "tweaker"
which is readily available in the cockpit and a 3:1 which runs to the cabin
top winch for the deep down wind runs.  TBH the tweaker and the traveler
together usually give enough range for all but the deepest down wind runs.
Even though the 3:1 is terminated at a winch it is extremely rare that we
need to use it since the traveler and tweaker are available to make up for
that which the 3:1 cannot.

Based in your picture it appears that my setup may be useful on your boat.
Basically you would eliminate either the port or starboard control which
you currently have.  Install a 4:1 or 6:1 fiddle block between boom and
traveler, and have the free end now terminate with a cam cleat at the
traveler side.  With no other purchase changes it looks like a 4:1 could be
arranged to produce 5:1 compounded with the existing 2:1 and you would have
10:1.  With the compromise of more line on the deck you could push it to
12:1 or 14:1 with the application of a 6:1 instead.  Here is a link to some
pictures of my setup.  If you need more description or better pictures just
let me know.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yY3Qtbi1VSllwM3M

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up

[Chuck Borge via CnC-List]

Josh,
That’s a cool setup. 
I may steal elements of that and as Mike noted, I can always trim main on the 
primaries. 
Not having a rats nest on the cockpit floor is a benefit. And mark roundings 
are easier with the 2:1, at least until we get to the last 20% or so. 
Next project will be making the traveler easier to adjust from the helm as 
well. 
It may be as simple as flopping the fiddle blocks. 
I’ll take some pix this weekend for input. 
Thanks,
Chuck

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 8, 2018, at 10:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Chuck
>  
> I have seen your setup on a C&C 115.  The 115 typically has the main sheet on 
> either side go directly from traveler to aft winches but on the 115 I 
> mentioned it went along boom to mast and then down and back. 
>  
> With your current setup could you not use the primaries for the main sheet 
> when you wish to use the secondaries (aft winches) for your jib?
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
> Borge via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, June 08, 2018 11:07 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chuck Borge
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up
>  
> Josh, 
> Thanks for jumping in. 
> 
> For reference, it looks like this diagram. 
> The traveler is on the bridge deck. The problem is the purchase. I might add 
> a triple at the top and move the double to the bottom. That will give me 3:1 
> instead. But it doesn’t solve my wanting to trim the jib on the aft winches. 
> Before I go buy a more traditional cascading set up like the Ronstan RP72900 
> 4:1/8:1, I want to think it out. 
>  
> Best,
> Chuck
>  
>  
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jun 7, 2018, at 10:14 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Chuck,
>  
> Any chance you have some pictures?  I tried google and sailboatdata but can't 
> tell if your boat has a cabin top traveler or a cockpit traveler?
>  
> Just for clarity, are you having trouble trimming the traveler or the 
> mainsheet?
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
>  
> On Thu, Jun 7, 2018, 9:54 PM Chuck Borge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>  
> Anyone with a C&C 41 have suggestions on a mainsheet set-up?
> My new-to-me boat has a "German" mainsheet set-up that runs to the runner 
> winches.  It's supposed to be the hot set-up but I'm not impressed. 
> Since I'm using a 97% r/f jib, I find tacking that alone using the runner 
> winches to be pretty easy, but what to do with the main?   Also the 2:1 
> nature of the German set-up is not really that easy to trim, even with the 
> winches.
> I'm thinking I'd like a 4:1/8:1 more traditional set-up or a reasonable 
> suggestion(?).
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>  
> Chuck Borge
> C&C 41 Tenacious
> (formerly C&C 34 Elusive)
> Somerset, MA
> 508-642-3557
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List C&C 36 Kite Rigging

[Matt Knighton via CnC-List]

Hey All,

Getting new running rigging on a recently purchased C&C 36.

What does the brain trust recommend for gybing: dip pole or end-to-end?

I.e. Can get away with only lite sheets or do we need guys as well?

Many thanks,

Matt

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Re: Stus-List C&C 36 Kite Rigging

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Matt

Our boat is a masthead 33 footer (almost identical to 33-2 sail plan).  We do 
end for end with just one set of sheets.  In any breeze it takes two good sized 
crew to manhandle the pole during a gybe.  Our friends 33-2 is rigged for dip 
pole (spin pole has different ends so can only do this).  In light winds they 
would prefer end-for-end.  We are contemplating running spate sheets and guys 
for anything much over 15 knots TWS in the future as that would make gybes much 
easier on foredeck crew.

Your 36 is masthead and would have a lot more sail area so I would think 
separate sheets and guys are likely a very good idea.  The 36 our family had 
growing up flew the spinnaker so rarely that I cannot recall how the pole was 
run but I would guess was dip pole.

A friend had a 36 until two years ago.  I will ask him how the boat was set up 
and get back to you.  In fact he was the third owner of the same boat that we 
had new in 1981

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matt 
Knighton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2018 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matt Knighton
Subject: Stus-List C&C 36 Kite Rigging

Hey All,

Getting new running rigging on a recently purchased C&C 36.

What does the brain trust recommend for gybing: dip pole or end-to-end?

I.e. Can get away with only lite sheets or do we need guys as well?

Many thanks,

Matt

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Re: Stus-List mainsheet set-up

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Josh- How long does the mainsheet need to be for this setup with coarse, 
fine and winch?  Are all those stock blocks?  I am not sure what you would call 
the double fiddle with the offset becket.  Dave

> On Jun 8, 2018, at 10:37 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My boat came setup from the PO with a cabin top mainsheet control to a cabin 
> top winch.  It was painfully under powered even with the winch.  My traveler 
> is located in the cockpit on the aft edge of the forward bench.  I had 
> previously, on other boats, only ever used a 4:1 mainsheet which was trimmed 
> at the traveler.  A convenient setup for tacking with a limited crew or 
> singlehanded.
> 
> The PO had tried a 6:1 or 8:1 trimmed at the traveler but justifiably 
> complained that there was too much extra line to be tripped on and tangled in 
> the cockpit or thrown below in the cabin.
> 
> I had seen the stacked fiddle block setup that makes 3:1/6:1 or 4:1/8:1.  
> While innovative, I decided that the bulk of the line would still be under 
> foot in the cockpit 95% of the time.
> 
> I ended up designing a cascading system which gives me a 12:1 "tweaker" which 
> is readily available in the cockpit and a 3:1 which runs to the cabin top 
> winch for the deep down wind runs.  TBH the tweaker and the traveler together 
> usually give enough range for all but the deepest down wind runs.  Even 
> though the 3:1 is terminated at a winch it is extremely rare that we need to 
> use it since the traveler and tweaker are available to make up for that which 
> the 3:1 cannot.
> 
> Based in your picture it appears that my setup may be useful on your boat.  
> Basically you would eliminate either the port or starboard control which you 
> currently have.  Install a 4:1 or 6:1 fiddle block between boom and traveler, 
> and have the free end now terminate with a cam cleat at the traveler side.  
> With no other purchase changes it looks like a 4:1 could be arranged to 
> produce 5:1 compounded with the existing 2:1 and you would have 10:1.  With 
> the compromise of more line on the deck you could push it to 12:1 or 14:1 
> with the application of a 6:1 instead.  Here is a link to some pictures of my 
> setup.  If you need more description or better pictures just let me know. 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yY3Qtbi1VSllwM3M 
> 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
> On Fri, Jun 8, 2018, 10:07 AM Chuck Borge via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Josh, 
> Thanks for jumping in. 
> 
> For reference, it looks like this diagram. 
> The traveler is on the bridge deck. The problem is the purchase. I might add 
> a triple at the top and move the double to the bottom. That will give me 3:1 
> instead. But it doesn’t solve my wanting to trim the jib on the aft winches. 
> Before I go buy a more traditional cascading set up like the Ronstan RP72900 
> 4:1/8:1, I want to think it out. 
> 
> Best,
> Chuck
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jun 7, 2018, at 10:14 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> Chuck,
>> 
>> Any chance you have some pictures?  I tried google and sailboatdata but 
>> can't tell if your boat has a cabin top traveler or a cockpit traveler?
>> 
>> Just for clarity, are you having trouble trimming the traveler or the 
>> mainsheet?
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>> On Thu, Jun 7, 2018, 9:54 PM Chuck Borge via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> Hi Listers,
>> 
>> Anyone with a C&C 41 have suggestions on a mainsheet set-up?
>> My new-to-me boat has a "German" mainsheet set-up that runs to the runner 
>> winches.  It's supposed to be the hot set-up but I'm not impressed. 
>> Since I'm using a 97% r/f jib, I find tacking that alone using the runner 
>> winches to be pretty easy, but what to do with the main?   Also the 2:1 
>> nature of the German set-up is not really that easy to trim, even with the 
>> winches.
>> I'm thinking I'd like a 4:1/8:1 more traditional set-up or a reasonable 
>> suggestion(?).
>> Thanks in advance for the help.
>> 
>> Chuck Borge
>> C&C 41 Tenacious
>> (formerly C&C 34 Elusive)
>> Somerset, MA
>> 508-642-3557
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
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Stus-List C&C 36 Kite Rigging

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

On a 36?  Unless you have a carbon pole / The Incredible Hulk  / or both on
your foredeck: You gotta use Dip Pole and in anything more than a light
breeze a full complement of fore / after guys

As you know my boat is really a 36 footer and my spin is over 800 sq / ft.
In addition to having specific ends my pole is big / long / heavy, and the
loads are substantial.  No flipping this one around.

Have Fun!

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Stus-List C&C 36 Kite Rigging

[robert via CnC-List]

Matt,
I worked foredeck racing for +30 years on boats of sizes from 24' to 
40'in my opinion, some boats the end for end is the way to 
go.other boats the dip pole jybe is the way to go.some people 
feel the dip jybe is too complicated, however, once you and your crew 
get the process choreographed, it is actually simpler, easier and safer 
than an end-for-end especially on a 36 footer that is mast head rigged.


One tipmake sure the helmsman does not over-steer too quickly 
through the jybeso, if the pole is too far foreward before the guy 
is released/tripped we call it, , the jaw(s) are twisted on the guy and 
won't release easily before the actual jybe, bring the pole back 45 deg 
or more to make sure the trip of the pole goes smoothlythe jaw(s) 
won't be twisted on the guy, it will drop easilyhave the pit man 
pull it down or the foredeck person do it. I always pulled it down and 
towards me with the lazy guy...and I stayed in front of the forestay 
looking back..then have the helmsman steer until the chute is flying 
out directly in front of the boat..attached the lazy guytighten 
it up ...the jybe is made.now the helmsman can come up into the 
wind.    The big mistake I have found doing a dip pole jybe is the 
helmsman steers through the jybe too quickly..the more you practice, 
the quicker and more precise you get, especially in a heavier 
wind.as a foredeck person, I would much rather do a dip pole jybe in 
a heavier wind than end for end.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-06-08 3:36 PM, Matt Knighton via CnC-List wrote:

Hey All,
Getting new running rigging on a recently purchased C&C 36.

What does the brain trust recommend for gybing: dip pole or end-to-end?

I.e. Can get away with only lite sheets or do we need guys as well?

Many thanks,

Matt

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Re: Stus-List C&C 36 Kite Rigging

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I. too, am a recovering foredeck guy.  Bob is right.  The steersman is the
key.  It's important that the steersman, and the entire crew, thinking of
gybing as "turning the boat under the chute".  The chute simply flies it's
way down the course while the boat zig zags under it.

it's a subtle but significant difference as opposed to "bringing the chute
across the boat".

Dennis C.

On Fri, Jun 8, 2018 at 4:13 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Matt,
> I worked foredeck racing for +30 years on boats of sizes from 24' to
> 40'in my opinion, some boats the end for end is the way to go.
>


> One tipmake sure the helmsman does not over-steer too quickly through
> the jybeop5tk,
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Re: Stus-List C&C 36 Kite Rigging

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Matt

Our former 36 was rigged for dip pole.  Comment from last owner of the boat 

" yes it is dip pole for 2 reasons10 the pole is too heavy to end for end and 
2) the length is too much for end to end because the spinnaker size would make 
it nearly impossible to push it all the way out in anything over 5kts, although 
if you wore a hockey helmet with a face guard one might give it a try."

Enjoy.  The 36 is a nice boat.

Mike
Formerly (a very long time ago 1980-90)
Blue Horizon No.1
1981 C&C 36
Halifax, NS
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matt 
Knighton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2018 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matt Knighton
Subject: Stus-List C&C 36 Kite Rigging

Hey All,

Getting new running rigging on a recently purchased C&C 36.

What does the brain trust recommend for gybing: dip pole or end-to-end?

I.e. Can get away with only lite sheets or do we need guys as well?

Many thanks,

Matt

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Stus-List Autopilot Installation is complete

[schiller via CnC-List]

We went up to the boat today and completed the autopilot installation.  
Pulled the drive motor cable through a cable clamp on the floor snugged 
between the pedestal guard and the wheel pedestal.  Pulled a GPS 
power/data cable through the pedestal guard and spliced the Garmin cable 
under the instrument shelf.  Nothing else is fitting down the pedestal 
guard tubes, the fit with the gps cable was tight.


Installed the Seatalkng to Seatalk converter (Thanks again, Fred) and 
fired it up.  everything is there.  Seatalkng network (wind, depth, 
speed, etc.) is working.  Garmin pages are working. Engaged it and 
commanded +10 and -10 degree course changes and the wheel turns the 
correct direction.  Centered up the rudder sensor.


Now the only remaining task is to go out and calibrate through the sea 
trials.


It's nice to have Otto back.  We rely on it while dealing with flaking 
the main (until I finish the lazy jacks).


Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #28
"Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
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Re: Stus-List Mainsheet cleat and jibes

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

The mainsheet is 7/16.  But I did not think it would pull out under shock load 
any more than under continuous tension.  The free end is not moving since the 
traveller was pinned in the middle.  Garhauer has no clue either so far.  The 
only thing I notice is that the block tilts as the tension comes off as the 
boom reaches the midline and then it snaps up again as the boom hits the other 
side.  It is that shock load at the end that pops it out of the cam.  Dave

> On Jun 4, 2018, at 12:00 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> David,
> 
> I had a Garhauer triple with cam on my 35/3.  Traveller is on the 
> companionway.  I used a 7/16 sheet and don't recall any trouble, but the cam 
> block was on the bottom and the line could not fall out.
> Could the sheet be catching on something or someone or is the sheet is too 
> small?
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Mon, Jun 4, 2018 at 9:30 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I had a problem for the last two seasons with my main sheet handling system.  
> I have a double ended system, with a 5:1 on the traveler with a Garhauet 
> triple block with cam cleat  then led forward to the mast and back to a winch 
> on the cabin roof.  The advantage is that I can quickly adjust in lighter 
> airs with the traveller system and winch the main in heavy airs at the other 
> end.  It works fine except I had a problem that many times (not always) when 
> I jibe, the main sheet pulled out of the cleat on the triple and the line ran 
> out until it hit the stop knot.  It happens so fast that I really could not 
> see why this was causing this.  It would happen even when the traveller car 
> was stopped on both sides and there was loss of tension on the sheet prior to 
> the jibe.  The only thing I could see that might be an issue is that the 
> block has the cam cleat on the underside so perhaps it was “falling out” of 
> the cam during the jibe.  We tried to make sure the sheet was not dangling 
> down into the cabin, but it still seemed to happen.  As a last resort, I 
> ordered a triple from Garhauer with the cam on the upper side and installed 
> it recently.  I was in a race yesterday in heavy air, and it happened again 
> with the new version of the block and cleat.  Does anyone have any insights 
> on what is causing this and how to stop it?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269-3125



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Re: Stus-List C&C 36 Kite Rigging

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I've been doing dip pole gybes for years.  On my present boat and on the
Ericson 30 I had before this one.  (That's almost forty-five years.) I use
separate sheets and guys.  Once you get your crew trained to do dip pose
gybes, you'll be happy with how fast, and safe they are.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Jun 8, 2018 at 11:36 AM, Matt Knighton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey All,
>
> Getting new running rigging on a recently purchased C&C 36.
>
> What does the brain trust recommend for gybing: dip pole or end-to-end?
>
> I.e. Can get away with only lite sheets or do we need guys as well?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Matt
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
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