Stus-List Re: handrail

[General Gao via CnC-List]

thx everyone for the information. I wanted to check with experienced people
before I take on the job myself.

Bo

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 3:41 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Use a wood screw drilled into the wood plug.  As the screw bottoms out it
> will pull the plug.  Just replace with a new one.  Glue in place with wood
> glue.  Use a sharp knife/chisel to shape and then sand flush.
> Stain/seal/oil for finish.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Sun, Mar 28, 2021, 15:30 General Gao via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi, my C 35 Mk2 handrail seems to have a leak to the inside. I found
>> out this last year when there was rain and I found water inside the cabin
>> where the handrail was.
>>
>> This year I want to take care of it before the season starts. I took a
>> closer look at it from inside, there seems to be a wood  stud, do I just
>> use a knife to pop it off to access the screws?
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/155AB7tJdv5J1JWm-tAk4_hQpyv7MedlL/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> Thank you in advance.
>>
>> Bo
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
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Stus-List Re: handrail

[James Hesketh via CnC-List]

WILLIAM  wrote:

> snip >>
>
After the glue dries use a  Sharp chisel to level, a little sandpaper and
> the apply finish.
>

I'd always been told it's better to set bungs (the plugs) by dipping them
in varnish before tapping them into place. That way, the varnish will act
as a waterproofer and semi-adhesive, but then they can be removed easily
next time. With glue they would need to be drilled out.

Jim Hesketh
C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
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Stus-List Re: handrail

[WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List]

 Yes, it is just plug covering screw head.  Use point of knife or small 
screwdriver to split plug with the grain of wood.  You can buy a plug cutter 
for your drill at most big bo stores and find a teak scrap to cut new plug.  
Simple.When reinstall they will be proud of surface.  After the glue dries use 
a  Sharp chisel to level, a little sandpaper and the apply finish.Bill 
WalkerCnC 36Pentwater, Mi.
On Sunday, March 28, 2021, 03:30:31 PM EDT, General Gao via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Hi, my C 35 Mk2 handrail seems to have a leak to the inside. I found out 
this last year when there was rain and I found water inside the cabin where the 
handrail was. 
This year I want to take care of it before the season starts. I took a closer 
look at it from inside, there seems to be a wood  stud, do I just use a knife 
to pop it off to access the screws?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/155AB7tJdv5J1JWm-tAk4_hQpyv7MedlL/view?usp=sharing

Thank you in advance.
BoThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu  Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Danny via CnC-List]

Well, if you keep up with the Watco wax, you should never have to do it again.   I did mine 5 years ago and it still looks great! The original was 30 years old and not well cared for and only the areas near sinks, showers, leaking ports and the companion way were completely dry.   They came back nicely though.I took all the doors, drawers and removable pieces home the first winter and did them in the garage.  I was doing a couple of pieces a couple nights a week after work and got them all refinished.   All the bulkheads and cabinetry I finished up over one or two weekends.   It was a learning curve.  I tried doing it by hand sanding with a block at first.  Had i started with the palm sander, it would have gone much smoother and faster. DannyOn Mar 28, 2021 6:33 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List  wrote:
Hang your club burgee where the clock use to be.

Don Kern
Fireball, C Mk2
Bristol, RI 

On 3/28/2021 1:24 PM, Matthew via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
All this talk about interior teak reminds
  me of question I have for the group.  I removed a clock from
  an interior wall, and the teak ply that was behind the clock
  is a different shade than the rest of the wall.  I assume it’s
  from the wood not getting any light for 40 years.  Any tricks
  for this issue?
 
Matt Wolford
C 42 Custom
  
  
  
  Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


  
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Hang your club burgee where the clock use to be.

Don Kern
/Fireball, /C Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 3/28/2021 1:24 PM, Matthew via CnC-List wrote:


All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for 
the group.  I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply 
that was behind the clock is a different shade than the rest of the 
wall.  I assume it’s from the wood not getting any light for 40 
years.  Any tricks for this issue?


Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Remote vhf stereo speakers

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

My boat been around a long time.  I did install a speaker (1980s) in the 
side of the cubby at the front of the cockpit that was hard wired to 
double throw switch (DP-DT:  VHF in - Out to speaker - Radio in)  at the 
Nav Station, selectable: VHF or FM/AM/Tape.  Both radios are long gone.  
Now the AM/FM is bluetooth with a Bose Soundlink mini in a ziplock bag 
placed in the cubby and the installed cubby speaker always selected to 
VHF.  We also have a handheld at the helm pedestal, always on and a 
spare handheld down below.  Always able to communicate with the race 
committee and the heavy commercial shipping.


Don Kern
/Fireball, /C Mk2
Bristol, RI


On 3/28/2021 3:11 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List wrote:
Raymarine made a wired waterproof mono remote speaker with a volume 
control (as do many others). It’s about 4x4 inches. I have one close 
to the helm and it works great. It would be awful to have to choose 
between music and vhf!



Len Mitchell

S/V Crazy Legs

1989 C 37+

Midland On.



Sent from my mobile device.

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Remote stereo speakers

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

I remember someone installed speakers that attached to the inside of the 
cockpit seats and turned the whole panel into a speaker.  I forget the brand 

CThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Remote vhf stereo speakers

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

There were stereo speakers installed in the cockpit rear compartments when I 
bought Aries.  I found that there was a powerful field from their magnets that 
was easily detected (iPhone app) at the helm that seemed to be affecting the 
compass, so I removed them.  Something to consider.  Dave

> On Mar 28, 2021, at 3:11 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Raymarine made a wired waterproof mono remote speaker with a volume control 
> (as do many others). It’s about 4x4 inches. I have one close to the helm and 
> it works great. It would be awful to have to choose between music and vhf! 
> 
> Len Mitchell
> S/V Crazy Legs
> 1989 C 37+
> Midland On. 
> 
> <0bc0447c-d4bb-4fde-b0fb-4466dce61e83.tiff>
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my mobile device. 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List Re: RayMarine dealer

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Fred Street in Minnesota
f...@postaudio.net
(612) 839-6565

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 2:37 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Do we have a RayMarine dealer on this list?
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!8rCACg-P4NfHhKuzAdincd_Mc9D4KE04HmoIhyO-i6aJlSRWr0GU9NF1WmwwLkqP0Gk$
>  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Defender last day

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

I think today is the last day for Defender's sale

Chuck SThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: handrail

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Let me add - check the direction of the grain of the plug to align with 
larger piece and to make sure it is going level or slightly upwards, 
otherwise the cut may end up lower on one side

Don Kern
/Fireball, /C Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 3/28/2021 3:41 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Use a wood screw drilled into the wood plug.  As the screw bottoms out 
it will pull the plug.  Just replace with a new one.  Glue in place 
with wood glue.  Use a sharp knife/chisel to shape and then sand 
flush.  Stain/seal/oil for finish.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021, 15:30 General Gao via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi, my C 35 Mk2 handrail seems to have a leak to the inside. I
found out this last year when there was rain and I found water
inside the cabin where the handrail was.

This year I want to take care of it before the season starts. I
took a closer look at it from inside, there seems to be a wood 
stud, do I just use a knife to pop it off to access the screws?


https://drive.google.com/file/d/155AB7tJdv5J1JWm-tAk4_hQpyv7MedlL/view?usp=sharing



Thank you in advance.

Bo
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to
help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: RayMarine dealer

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Fred Street, if he’s still around. 

All the best, 

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Mar 28, 2021, at 5:37 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Do we have a RayMarine dealer on this list?
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA
 
 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: handrail

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Remove the circular half inch plugs. Drill a hole in each and turn in a
screw until they release. The plugs are now garbage but you can buy
replacements. Under the plugs on mine a Robertson head screw about 4 inches
long. Remove those screws and the interior hand rail is free. Then there
are smaller screws 2 to each rise in the exterior handrail. Remove them all
to release the exterior hand rail. Clean up and refinish the handrails as
you need and clean the deck below them as well. Strongly recommend butyl
tape as a sealant when you replace them. It’s not a one person job really.
I did mine about 15 years ago still good. I hope

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 4:30 PM General Gao via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, my C 35 Mk2 handrail seems to have a leak to the inside. I found out
> this last year when there was rain and I found water inside the cabin where
> the handrail was.
>
> This year I want to take care of it before the season starts. I took a
> closer look at it from inside, there seems to be a wood  stud, do I just
> use a knife to pop it off to access the screws?
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/155AB7tJdv5J1JWm-tAk4_hQpyv7MedlL/view?usp=sharing
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> Bo
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Thanks Danny,

How often do you need to do this "three part treatment"? 

Thanks again.
Chuck S  

> On 03/28/2021 12:58 PM Danny via CnC-List  wrote:
>  
>  
> Hey Charles, 
> I was taking about the "Watco Danish finish"
>  
> There are basically 3 steps.  Use 320 grit wet/ dry sand paper to work 
> the Watco Danish finish into the wood, i recommend a vibrating palm sander 
> for this.   The key is to get some wood dust worked up and rub the whole 
> surface with the sander, let sit 30 minutes and wipe it down.  Do that again 
> with 400 grit,  wipe it all down again.  Then rub it all down with the Watco 
> wax, wipe it down again and you're done. 
>  
> Danny
> 
> On Mar 28, 2021 12:27 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > Interesting thread, and perhaps someday I will get to the 
> point where I can attend to our teak interior instead of fixing other stuff! 
> I have done a small amount of testing with teak oil (some marine brand I was 
> given), but the biggest problem I have is that someone in the past decided to 
> apply varnish or urethane to only certain parts of the interior, while others 
> look like original oil. I am afraid to attempt stripping the varnish and make 
> a mess, but I am also loathe to apply more varnish... So I just leave it. In 
> dim light it looks ok, but the shiny sections annoy me...
> > 
> > --
> > Shawn Wright
> > shawngwri...@gmail.com mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com
> > S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> > https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> > 
> > On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 9:02 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > Hi Danny,
> > > Interesting story.  What system are you sold on?  You never 
> > > said.
> > >  
> > > C
> > > 
> > > > > > > On 03/28/2021 8:22 AM Danny via 
> > > CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > >  
> > > >  
> > > > My current boat was finished with Watco Danish finish 
> > > > from the factory.  When i bought her at 30 years old, it seemed it had 
> > > > never been maintained and was looking kind of dry.  So, i did a little 
> > > > research and went to work.  I'm amazed at how well it came back.  When 
> > > > i was done, i had a beautiful had rubbed finish.  It was way less work 
> > > > than stripping and coating 8 times with varnish and it left a nice 
> > > > water repellent finish that just needs a quick wax to maintain.   
> > > >  
> > > > After refinishing the teak, the boat went into a paint 
> > > > shed and the idiots took it back out with all the ports open and left 
> > > > it in a heavy rain that way.  I freaked until i got below and saw the 
> > > > finish intact and water beading off! 
> > > >  
> > > > I'm sold on this system as better protection that just 
> > > > oil and much easier to apply than a proper varnish job. 
> > > >  
> > > > Danny
> > > > T40 Rum Runner IV
> > > > Mattapoisett, MA
> > > > Currently; Barrington, RI
> > > > 
> > > > On Mar 28, 2021 12:24 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List < 
> > > > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote
> > > > 
> > > > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that 
> > > > contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want 
> > > > to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> > > >  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > > 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List RayMarine dealer

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Do we have a RayMarine dealer on this list?

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Dean McNeill via CnC-List]

_
Matt,

My PO (or maybe the PPO) was similarly sloppy when applying Cetol throughout 
exterior and interior of boat. I tried a few things and the ABSOLUTE Best is 
gently scraping with the dull bottle opener end of my Swiss Army knife. So, I 
bet a big rounded-over flat-head screwdriver would wor kwell too. It beats any 
solvent I’ve tried. I just gently scape (or push) of Cetol off the gelcoat— 
works beautifully.Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: handrail

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Put a small blade screwdriver against it and tap with a hammer.  The plug 
should split and most of it will pop out.  You'll have to buy replacement teak 
plugs for when you put it back together.

Bob

> On 03/28/2021 3:30 PM General Gao via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Hi, my C 35 Mk2 handrail seems to have a leak to the inside. I found 
> out this last year when there was rain and I found water inside the cabin 
> where the handrail was. 
>  
> This year I want to take care of it before the season starts. I took a 
> closer look at it from inside, there seems to be a wood  stud, do I just use 
> a knife to pop it off to access the screws?
>  
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/155AB7tJdv5J1JWm-tAk4_hQpyv7MedlL/view?usp=sharing
>  
> Thank you in advance.
>  
> Bo
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: handrail

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Use a wood screw drilled into the wood plug.  As the screw bottoms out it
will pull the plug.  Just replace with a new one.  Glue in place with wood
glue.  Use a sharp knife/chisel to shape and then sand flush.
Stain/seal/oil for finish.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021, 15:30 General Gao via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi, my C 35 Mk2 handrail seems to have a leak to the inside. I found out
> this last year when there was rain and I found water inside the cabin where
> the handrail was.
>
> This year I want to take care of it before the season starts. I took a
> closer look at it from inside, there seems to be a wood  stud, do I just
> use a knife to pop it off to access the screws?
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/155AB7tJdv5J1JWm-tAk4_hQpyv7MedlL/view?usp=sharing
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> Bo
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List handrail

[General Gao via CnC-List]

Hi, my C 35 Mk2 handrail seems to have a leak to the inside. I found out
this last year when there was rain and I found water inside the cabin where
the handrail was.

This year I want to take care of it before the season starts. I took a
closer look at it from inside, there seems to be a wood  stud, do I just
use a knife to pop it off to access the screws?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/155AB7tJdv5J1JWm-tAk4_hQpyv7MedlL/view?usp=sharing

Thank you in advance.

Bo
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Remote vhf stereo speakers

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Raymarine made a wired waterproof mono remote speaker with a volume control (as do many others). It’s about 4x4 inches. I have one close to the helm and it works great. It would be awful to have to choose between music and vhf! Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C 37+Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Remote Vhf/Stereo Speakers

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I mounted a second vhf at the helm. I bought a Standard Horizon that has a AIS 
that I linked to my navigation system.  I use a common antenna for both radios. 
If you do so you will need a automatic switch to prevent you from blasting 25 
watts into the other VHF. 
It’s very convenient to have a fully functioning VHF at the helm. 

Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury
C
Portland Or 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 28, 2021, at 6:25 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Okay, it's morning, and I've calmed down. So, either hook up your speakers, 
> get a new portable, or install a ram, whatever. It's all good. 
> But I still like the RAM
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
>> On Sat, Mar 27, 2021, 8:33 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> To plagiarize the Vendee Globe entrant, Yes We CAM! 
>> JUST GET THE RAM!
>> 
>> I am trying to filter myself, after having several IPA's, but may have a 
>> hard time.
>> 
>> If you are counting on having a working portable next to you, when you need 
>> it most, it's not going to happen. The RAM is only a little over a hundred 
>> bucks, and if your current radio doesn't support that, then you need to 
>> upgrade. $250 will do it.  In 2000, I went on a delivery with a dockmate to 
>> Florida from Lake Erie, and he was really good on the radio (he was also a 
>> pilot) and when he was trying to tell a little blowboater ahead of us on the 
>> Canal that he was going to be passing on his left, 'Those damn sailboats 
>> never respond to any VHS calls.  I told him he probably didn't have anything 
>> in his cockpit. He looked a little incredulous, and I took note. Then a 
>> little later In Atlantic City, I was talking to a couple on a Swan I helped 
>> dock, and on my tour they showed me their new Standard Horizon RAM mic, and 
>> extolled all its virtues. I bought one within a month or returning home, and 
>> have gone through a few others since. One emergency will pay for it one 
>> hundredfold. 
>> 
>> The only thing you will regret is the hour or so trying to string the cable 
>> from the cockpit to the Nav Station, but after that you will be a happy 
>> camper.
>> 
>> 
>> Bill Coleman
>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Hello All,
>> 
>> Last season, my handheld VHF failed, and I find the nav station mounted 
>> radio is hard to hear from the helm unless it is very loud which doesn’t 
>> help kiddos napping on board.  
>> 
>> I have looked at upgrading the base station and adding a Ram mic, but that 
>> is a huge expense for something I don’t use all that much. A new handheld is 
>> also expensive and I find it a bit of a pain to always have to charge it. 
>> 
>> Seeing as we would like to add cockpit speakers to our stereo, I was 
>> thinking i could save a bunch of money and wire the speakers to both the VHF 
>> and the stereo and have a SPDT (on-off-on) switch on the circuit to choose 
>> between vhf to cockpit, stereo to cockpit, or cockpit speakers off. I have 0 
>> experience wiring speakers, so I’m wondering if this is something that could 
>> work?
>> 
>> Either way I want cockpit stereo speakers so I figure it’s worth a try to 
>> add the vhf since it won’t take much work or expense. The speakers do exceed 
>> the recommended minimum wattage and match the recommended impedance for an 
>> external speaker from the vhf manual. Any advice or ideas would be 
>> appreciated. 
>> 
>> Thanks, 
>> Cam 
>> C 38 mkII Checkmate
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

How about screwing some Interclub participation plaques over it.

Bill

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021, 1:59 PM Matthew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> On a more serious note, the problem is that the PO put the clock in an odd
> location, near the edge of the bulkhead up near the ceiling (or whatever we
> decided to call it).  Placing something in the same location won’t look
> right (like the old clock).  Thus my dilemma.
>
>
>
> *From:* Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, March 28, 2021 1:30 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Tom Buscaglia 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?
>
>
>
> Get a new clock.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
>
> S/V Alera
>
> 1990 C 37+/40
>
> Vashon WA
>
> P 206.463.9200
>
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 28, 2021, at 10:25 AM, Matthew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> 
>
> All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for the
> group.  I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply that was
> behind the clock is a different shade than the rest of the wall.  I assume
> it’s from the wood not getting any light for 40 years.  Any tricks for this
> issue?
>
>
>
> Matt Wolford
>
> C 42 Custom
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

It has been three or four already.

 

From: T Sutton via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 1:50 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: T Sutton 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

 

Or wait a few years.

 

Tom S

 

From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

On a more serious note, the problem is that the PO put the clock in an odd 
location, near the edge of the bulkhead up near the ceiling (or whatever we 
decided to call it).  Placing something in the same location won’t look right 
(like the old clock).  Thus my dilemma.

 

From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 1:30 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

 

Get a new clock.

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 





On Mar 28, 2021, at 10:25 AM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for the group.  
I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply that was behind the 
clock is a different shade than the rest of the wall.  I assume it’s from the 
wood not getting any light for 40 years.  Any tricks for this issue?

 

Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Remote Vhf/Stereo Speakers

[Cam Lubbock via CnC-List]

Dave,

I like that idea using the access hatch! I have one in nearly the identical 
spot in my boat. It is currently where I run my solar cables but I am changing 
up the solar a bit, and would rather drill a couple small holes for the cables 
than a large hole for the speaker. The whole reason the cables went through the 
hatch is because I couldn’t bring myself to drill a hole in the deck.

Thanks,

Cam

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 28, 2021, at 1:41 PM, Dave S  wrote:

 Cam -  I could not really find a satisfactory solution to a remote mic in my 
cockpit, so I wired a remote speaker into my icom m506 vhf as follows:

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2017/05/cockpit-vhf-speaker-without-butchery.html?m=1

If I need to communicate I use my handheld or sit in the companionway - my 
wired mic just reaches.

For music - I could never bring myself to install speakers in the cockpit, and 
today’s compact Bluetooth speakers seem to handle the job just fine.

Dave   33-2

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[T Sutton via CnC-List]

Or wait a few years.

Tom S

From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 11:30 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

Get a new clock.


Tom Buscaglia 
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660



  On Mar 28, 2021, at 10:25 AM, Matthew via CnC-List  
wrote:


   
  All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for the 
group.  I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply that was 
behind the clock is a different shade than the rest of the wall.  I assume it’s 
from the wood not getting any light for 40 years.  Any tricks for this issue?

   

  Matt Wolford

  C 42 Custom
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

That’s the problem, I did get a new clock and put it somewhere else (better).

 

Maybe a nice picture.

 

From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 1:30 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

 

Get a new clock.

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 





On Mar 28, 2021, at 10:25 AM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for the group.  
I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply that was behind the 
clock is a different shade than the rest of the wall.  I assume it’s from the 
wood not getting any light for 40 years.  Any tricks for this issue?

 

Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Remote Vhf/Stereo Speakers

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Cam -  I could not really find a satisfactory solution to a remote mic in my 
cockpit, so I wired a remote speaker into my icom m506 vhf as follows:

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2017/05/cockpit-vhf-speaker-without-butchery.html?m=1

If I need to communicate I use my handheld or sit in the companionway - my 
wired mic just reaches.

For music - I could never bring myself to install speakers in the cockpit, and 
today’s compact Bluetooth speakers seem to handle the job just fine.

Dave   33-2




Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 28, 2021, at 1:07 PM, Cam Lubbock via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks for all the reply’s! 
> 
> I think a new vhf and ram mic would be the best thing, but all said and done, 
> I’m looking at anywhere from $500-$1000 CAD or more. I have all Raymarine on 
> board and their radios are very expensive. That is on the wish list but I 
> think that money could go towards better things. I’m thinking for a few feet 
> of speaker wire and a $10 switch, trying to tie it into the stereo speakers 
> would make the most sense right now. 
> 
> Bill, a few IPA’s deep is the best way to shop for boat parts, that will be 
> needed if I do decide to buy a new radio and ram mic in the future. I too am 
> a pilot and am comfortable on the radio and understand the importance of good 
> communication. Maybe I should get dual comms lol. I find in my area, the 
> people I need to tell off don’t monitor the radio (or have taken full 
> ownership of a channel with their friends and don’t monitor 16), and mostly I 
> am listening for security calls from large commercial vessels before entering 
> narrows, and no response is generally needed as they give plenty of warning, 
> and I always give them way as they are on the clock and I’m just out for 
> pleasure. 
> 
> Thanks again. 
> 
> Cam 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Get a new clock.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Mar 28, 2021, at 10:25 AM, Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for the 
> group.  I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply that was 
> behind the clock is a different shade than the rest of the wall.  I assume 
> it’s from the wood not getting any light for 40 years.  Any tricks for this 
> issue?
>  
> Matt Wolford
> C 42 Custom
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for the group.  
I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply that was behind the 
clock is a different shade than the rest of the wall.  I assume it’s from the 
wood not getting any light for 40 years.  Any tricks for this issue?

 

Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Gordon Reid via CnC-List]

Greetings:
Following this discussion on interior teak.
Someone before my ownership put a shiny surface on all my interior teak,
but they left *lots* on the surrounding headliner and other fiberglass
surfaces.  As if they were blind.  Maybe they used a cloth to apply.Seems
to be more matt finish than shiny varnish.I have a C and C 30 Mk2, 1988.
This was some years ago
Question: Whatever they used, which I don't know, is there any product that
would remove the overspill from the the fiberglass, after all these years.

On Sat, Mar 27, 2021 at 5:37 PM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Interesting do you have a picture of your interior rob
> On Sat, Mar 27, 2021 at 8:18 PM Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Another vote for Old English lemon oil. IMO teak is not intended to be
>> urethaned or any of the other. Just sets you up for more maintenance,
>> stripping, scraping, etc, which is contrary to using teak in the first
>> place.  Oil 2x each summer and looks like new. Wipe off excess and no dirt
>> problems.
>>
>> Jeff Laman
>> 1981 C
>> Harmony
>>
>> Get Outlook for Android
>>
>> Get Outlook for Android 
>>
>> --
>> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Saturday, March 27, 2021 7:50:53 PM
>> *To:* Stus-List 
>> *Cc:* Robert Abbott 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Leaving interior Teak natural?
>>
>> Dean
>> My 32 came with the C advertised 'teak package'...teak everywhere...the
>> V-birth, quarterberth, bulkheads, doors, head, dinette table teak veneer (I
>> think), etc.
>>
>> It is now 36 years old and has only ever been oiled. It still looks like
>> new.  I have tried the 'designer oils' from yacht shops but prefer the
>> stuff I buy at the grocery store Old English Lemon Oil
>>
>> Now it means I oil the teak 2 maybe 3 times a year but isn't that why I
>> own a 1984 C 32.
>>
>> old english oil lemon - Bing
>> 
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - #277
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>> On 2021-03-27 8:19 p.m., Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful teak 
>> interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m successfully 
>> removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light sand, I’m 
>> wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not a fan of 
>> oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be treating any 
>> exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or natural? Or 
>> something else?
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>>   Thanks - Stu
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Remote Vhf/Stereo Speakers

[Cam Lubbock via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the reply’s! 

I think a new vhf and ram mic would be the best thing, but all said and done, 
I’m looking at anywhere from $500-$1000 CAD or more. I have all Raymarine on 
board and their radios are very expensive. That is on the wish list but I think 
that money could go towards better things. I’m thinking for a few feet of 
speaker wire and a $10 switch, trying to tie it into the stereo speakers would 
make the most sense right now. 

Bill, a few IPA’s deep is the best way to shop for boat parts, that will be 
needed if I do decide to buy a new radio and ram mic in the future. I too am a 
pilot and am comfortable on the radio and understand the importance of good 
communication. Maybe I should get dual comms lol. I find in my area, the people 
I need to tell off don’t monitor the radio (or have taken full ownership of a 
channel with their friends and don’t monitor 16), and mostly I am listening for 
security calls from large commercial vessels before entering narrows, and no 
response is generally needed as they give plenty of warning, and I always give 
them way as they are on the clock and I’m just out for pleasure. 

Thanks again. 

Cam 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

I think a video seminar should be made

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 1:00 PM Danny via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hey Charles,
> I was taking about the "Watco Danish finish"
>
> There are basically 3 steps.  Use 320 grit wet/ dry sand paper to work the
> Watco Danish finish into the wood, i recommend a vibrating palm sander for
> this.   The key is to get some wood dust worked up and rub the whole
> surface with the sander, let sit 30 minutes and wipe it down.  Do that
> again with 400 grit,  wipe it all down again.  Then rub it all down with
> the Watco wax, wipe it down again and you're done.
>
> Danny
>
> On Mar 28, 2021 12:27 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Interesting thread, and perhaps someday I will get to the point where I
> can attend to our teak interior instead of fixing other stuff! I have done
> a small amount of testing with teak oil (some marine brand I was given),
> but the biggest problem I have is that someone in the past decided to apply
> varnish or urethane to only certain parts of the interior, while others
> look like original oil. I am afraid to attempt stripping the varnish and
> make a mess, but I am also loathe to apply more varnish... So I just leave
> it. In dim light it looks ok, but the shiny sections annoy me...
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 9:02 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Danny,
> Interesting story.  What system are you sold on?  You never said.
>
> C
>
> On 03/28/2021 8:22 AM Danny via CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> My current boat was finished with Watco Danish finish from the factory.
> When i bought her at 30 years old, it seemed it had never been maintained
> and was looking kind of dry.  So, i did a little research and went to
> work.  I'm amazed at how well it came back.  When i was done, i had a
> beautiful had rubbed finish.  It was way less work than stripping and
> coating 8 times with varnish and it left a nice water repellent finish that
> just needs a quick wax to maintain.
>
> After refinishing the teak, the boat went into a paint shed and the idiots
> took it back out with all the ports open and left it in a heavy rain that
> way.  I freaked until i got below and saw the finish intact and water
> beading off!
>
> I'm sold on this system as better protection that just oil and much easier
> to apply than a proper varnish job.
>
> Danny
> T40 Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
> Currently; Barrington, RI
>
> On Mar 28, 2021 12:24 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Danny via CnC-List]

Hey Charles, I was taking about the "Watco Danish finish"There are basically 3 steps.  Use 320 grit wet/ dry sand paper to work the Watco Danish finish into the wood, i recommend a vibrating palm sander for this.   The key is to get some wood dust worked up and rub the whole surface with the sander, let sit 30 minutes and wipe it down.  Do that again with 400 grit,  wipe it all down again.  Then rub it all down with the Watco wax, wipe it down again and you're done. DannyOn Mar 28, 2021 12:27 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List  wrote:Interesting thread, and perhaps someday I will get to the point where I can attend to our teak interior instead of fixing other stuff! I have done a small amount of testing with teak oil (some marine brand I was given), but the biggest problem I have is that someone in the past decided to apply varnish or urethane to only certain parts of the interior, while others look like original oil. I am afraid to attempt stripping the varnish and make a mess, but I am also loathe to apply more varnish... So I just leave it. In dim light it looks ok, but the shiny sections annoy me...--Shawn Wrightshawngwright@gmail.comS/V Callisto, 1974 C 35https://www.facebook.com/SVCallistoOn Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 9:02 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  wrote:

  
   
 
 
  
   Hi Danny,
   
  
   Interesting story.  What system are you sold on?  You never said.
   
  
    
   
  
   C
   
   
   
On 03/28/2021 8:22 AM Danny via CnC-List  wrote:

   
 

   
 

   
My current boat was finished with Watco Danish finish from the factory.  When i bought her at 30 years old, it seemed it had never been maintained and was looking kind of dry.  So, i did a little research and went to work.  I'm amazed at how well it came back.  When i was done, i had a beautiful had rubbed finish.  It was way less work than stripping and coating 8 times with varnish and it left a nice water repellent finish that just needs a quick wax to maintain.    

  
 

 After refinishing the teak, the boat went into a paint shed and the idiots took it back out with all the ports open and left it in a heavy rain that way.  I freaked until i got below and saw the finish intact and water beading off! 
 

  
 

 I'm sold on this system as better protection that just oil and much easier to apply than a proper varnish job. 
 

  
 

 Danny
 

 T40 Rum Runner IV
 

 Mattapoisett, MA
 

 Currently; Barrington, RI
 

   
 

 On Mar 28, 2021 12:24 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  wrote
 

   
 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Interesting thread, and perhaps someday I will get to the point where I can
attend to our teak interior instead of fixing other stuff! I have done a
small amount of testing with teak oil (some marine brand I was given), but
the biggest problem I have is that someone in the past decided to apply
varnish or urethane to only certain parts of the interior, while others
look like original oil. I am afraid to attempt stripping the varnish and
make a mess, but I am also loathe to apply more varnish... So I just leave
it. In dim light it looks ok, but the shiny sections annoy me...

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 9:02 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Danny,
> Interesting story.  What system are you sold on?  You never said.
>
> C
>
> On 03/28/2021 8:22 AM Danny via CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> My current boat was finished with Watco Danish finish from the factory.
> When i bought her at 30 years old, it seemed it had never been maintained
> and was looking kind of dry.  So, i did a little research and went to
> work.  I'm amazed at how well it came back.  When i was done, i had a
> beautiful had rubbed finish.  It was way less work than stripping and
> coating 8 times with varnish and it left a nice water repellent finish that
> just needs a quick wax to maintain.
>
> After refinishing the teak, the boat went into a paint shed and the idiots
> took it back out with all the ports open and left it in a heavy rain that
> way.  I freaked until i got below and saw the finish intact and water
> beading off!
>
> I'm sold on this system as better protection that just oil and much easier
> to apply than a proper varnish job.
>
> Danny
> T40 Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
> Currently; Barrington, RI
>
> On Mar 28, 2021 12:24 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hi Danny,
Interesting story.  What system are you sold on?  You never said.

C

> On 03/28/2021 8:22 AM Danny via CnC-List  wrote:
>  
>  
> My current boat was finished with Watco Danish finish from the factory.  
> When i bought her at 30 years old, it seemed it had never been maintained and 
> was looking kind of dry.  So, i did a little research and went to work.  I'm 
> amazed at how well it came back.  When i was done, i had a beautiful had 
> rubbed finish.  It was way less work than stripping and coating 8 times with 
> varnish and it left a nice water repellent finish that just needs a quick wax 
> to maintain.   
>  
> After refinishing the teak, the boat went into a paint shed and the 
> idiots took it back out with all the ports open and left it in a heavy rain 
> that way.  I freaked until i got below and saw the finish intact and water 
> beading off! 
>  
> I'm sold on this system as better protection that just oil and much 
> easier to apply than a proper varnish job. 
>  
> Danny
> T40 Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
> Currently; Barrington, RI
> 
> On Mar 28, 2021 12:24 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Remote Vhf/Stereo Speakers

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Once you have a RAM you will be amazed at how much (2 way) you will use it.

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 9:24:25 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Remote Vhf/Stereo Speakers

Okay, it's morning, and I've calmed down. So, either hook up your speakers, get 
a new portable, or install a ram, whatever. It's all good.
But I still like the RAM

Bill Coleman

On Sat, Mar 27, 2021, 8:33 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

To plagiarize the Vendee Globe entrant, Yes We CAM!
JUST GET THE RAM!

I am trying to filter myself, after having several IPA's, but may have a hard 
time.

If you are counting on having a working portable next to you, when you need it 
most, it's not going to happen. The RAM is only a little over a hundred bucks, 
and if your current radio doesn't support that, then you need to upgrade. $250 
will do it.  In 2000, I went on a delivery with a dockmate to Florida from Lake 
Erie, and he was really good on the radio (he was also a pilot) and when he was 
trying to tell a little blowboater ahead of us on the Canal that he was going 
to be passing on his left, 'Those damn sailboats never respond to any VHS 
calls.  I told him he probably didn't have anything in his cockpit. He looked a 
little incredulous, and I took note. Then a little later In Atlantic City, I 
was talking to a couple on a Swan I helped dock, and on my tour they showed me 
their new Standard Horizon RAM mic, and extolled all its virtues. I bought one 
within a month or returning home, and have gone through a few others since. One 
emergency will pay for it one hundredfold.

The only thing you will regret is the hour or so trying to string the cable 
from the cockpit to the Nav Station, but after that you will be a happy camper.


Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA



Hello All,

Last season, my handheld VHF failed, and I find the nav station mounted radio 
is hard to hear from the helm unless it is very loud which doesn’t help kiddos 
napping on board.

I have looked at upgrading the base station and adding a Ram mic, but that is a 
huge expense for something I don’t use all that much. A new handheld is also 
expensive and I find it a bit of a pain to always have to charge it.

Seeing as we would like to add cockpit speakers to our stereo, I was thinking i 
could save a bunch of money and wire the speakers to both the VHF and the 
stereo and have a SPDT (on-off-on) switch on the circuit to choose between vhf 
to cockpit, stereo to cockpit, or cockpit speakers off. I have 0 experience 
wiring speakers, so I’m wondering if this is something that could work?

Either way I want cockpit stereo speakers so I figure it’s worth a try to add 
the vhf since it won’t take much work or expense. The speakers do exceed the 
recommended minimum wattage and match the recommended impedance for an external 
speaker from the vhf manual. Any advice or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Cam
C 38 mkII Checkmate

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Remote Vhf/Stereo Speakers

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Okay, it's morning, and I've calmed down. So, either hook up your speakers,
get a new portable, or install a ram, whatever. It's all good.
But I still like the RAM

Bill Coleman

On Sat, Mar 27, 2021, 8:33 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> To plagiarize the Vendee Globe entrant, Yes We CAM!
> JUST GET THE RAM!
>
> I am trying to filter myself, after having several IPA's, but may have a
> hard time.
>
> If you are counting on having a working portable next to you, when you
> need it most, it's not going to happen. The RAM is only a little over a
> hundred bucks, and if your current radio doesn't support that, then you
> need to upgrade. $250 will do it.  In 2000, I went on a delivery with a
> dockmate to Florida from Lake Erie, and he was really good on the radio (he
> was also a pilot) and when he was trying to tell a little blowboater ahead
> of us on the Canal that he was going to be passing on his left, 'Those damn
> sailboats never respond to any VHS calls.  I told him he probably didn't
> have anything in his cockpit. He looked a little incredulous, and I took
> note. Then a little later In Atlantic City, I was talking to a couple on a
> Swan I helped dock, and on my tour they showed me their new Standard
> Horizon RAM mic, and extolled all its virtues. I bought one within a month
> or returning home, and have gone through a few others since. One emergency
> will pay for it one hundredfold.
>
> The only thing you will regret is the hour or so trying to string the
> cable from the cockpit to the Nav Station, but after that you will be a
> happy camper.
>
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
> Hello All,
>
> Last season, my handheld VHF failed, and I find the nav station mounted
> radio is hard to hear from the helm unless it is very loud which doesn’t
> help kiddos napping on board.
>
> I have looked at upgrading the base station and adding a Ram mic, but that
> is a huge expense for something I don’t use all that much. A new handheld
> is also expensive and I find it a bit of a pain to always have to charge
> it.
>
> Seeing as we would like to add cockpit speakers to our stereo, I was
> thinking i could save a bunch of money and wire the speakers to both the
> VHF and the stereo and have a SPDT (on-off-on) switch on the circuit to
> choose between vhf to cockpit, stereo to cockpit, or cockpit speakers off.
> I have 0 experience wiring speakers, so I’m wondering if this is something
> that could work?
>
> Either way I want cockpit stereo speakers so I figure it’s worth a try to
> add the vhf since it won’t take much work or expense. The speakers do
> exceed the recommended minimum wattage and match the recommended impedance
> for an external speaker from the vhf manual. Any advice or ideas would be
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Cam
> C 38 mkII Checkmate
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have lots of info for you to consider.  However, I am by no means a
professional.

I found that without exception "lemon oils" are mineral oil with added
color and scent.  Double check me.  I use the SDS to see and compare the
"ingredients" in lots of products.  Pure mineral oil is what is recommended
for wooden cutting boards though some people recommend thickening it with
beeswax to make a cream or paste that will last through washing a little
better.  In their 100% pure form, both mineral oil and beeswax are "food
safe".  Neither mineral oil or bees wax will ever "dry".  They do not
naturally give off VOCs and will only ever simply be absorbed, or washed
away.  Warmer temps encourage more and faster absorption.  Some people have
reported mildew as a result of using "lemon oil".  I have not experienced
this at all and would suggest that the primary cause of the mildew is high
moisture.  You will most likely find that most "teak oils" are basically a
mineral oil though some may have additional UV stabilizers and blockers.
Teak oils are also often colored brown instead of yellow but this is
aesthetic more than anything.

Linseed oil is a common wood finishing product and comes in 2 variations.
Boiled and raw.  Similar to mineral oil, raw linseed has no (or low) VOCs
and will never dry thought I believe it is slightly thinner than mineral
oil and will get better absorption.  As I understand it raw linseed and
flaxseed oil are basically the same thing though unlike pure mineral oil
and supermarket flaxseed oil, linseed oil should not be consumed.  Probably
not an issue, but it is worth keeping in mind should you be looking for a
product to condition your cutting boards.  I use raw linseed thickened with
bees wax as a natural preservative on my bee hives.  It definitely seems to
make a difference over unprotected wood.

I seem to recall that boiled linseed oil is not linseed oil at all but
rather a chemical concoction that actually has VOCs and ultimately dries.
As a single application it will go on similar to raw linseed or mineral
oil.  It will quickly absorb like raw linseed but has the advantage of
ultimately giving off those VOCs and drying.  A second application can
result in a slight shiny or satin finish as the second layer is now
building up on the dry layer below instead of soaking in.  A third
application can give a semi-gloss finish.

Now on to Danish oil.  Danish oil is akin to a very very thin colored
polyurethane .  It can be applied with a rag in the same manner as the
above mentioned products.  It comes in a variety of colors.  It will dry.
I like to use Danish oil on fresh, raw, neglected, or weathered decorative
interior wood as a base coat.  I find that applying it with a foam brush
leaves enough to soak in.  It is thin enough that it will soak in quite
well.  While it is wet you can keep applying more to get better and better
penetration.  Per the directions you would come back a few hours after
application to wipe away any extra and then allow to dry thoroughly (24
hours-ish).  When wiped away it leaves a natural finish that will be
resistant to being washed away.  Since it comes in various colors you can
also add back some youthfulness to greyed out wood as well as more closely
match existing wood.  This product is also a good fit for traction surfaces
and high moisture surfaces such as the stairs and the shower bench.  Once
the base is established, maintaining it with an oil product from above is
much less involved and lasts longer.  Just keep in mind that if the oil
product does not dry then it will impact slip resistance.

Hope this adds some options for you.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C+
Solomons, MD

On Sat, Mar 27, 2021, 19:19 Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful teak
> interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m successfully
> removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light sand, I’m
> wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not a fan of
> oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be treating
> any exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or natural? Or
> something else?Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the
> list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to
> the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Ours has natural teak and only been oiled.  Use old English lemon oil buy at 
local grocery / hardware store.  Wipe on, let sit for a bit and wipe off.  Once 
a year in early spring before cover comes off.  Nice project and looks great!!

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Danny via CnC-List]

My current boat was finished with Watco Danish finish from the factory.  When i bought her at 30 years old, it seemed it had never been maintained and was looking kind of dry.  So, i did a little research and went to work.  I'm amazed at how well it came back.  When i was done, i had a beautiful had rubbed finish.  It was way less work than stripping and coating 8 times with varnish and it left a nice water repellent finish that just needs a quick wax to maintain.   After refinishing the teak, the boat went into a paint shed and the idiots took it back out with all the ports open and left it in a heavy rain that way.  I freaked until i got below and saw the finish intact and water beading off! I'm sold on this system as better protection that just oil and much easier to apply than a proper varnish job. DannyT40 Rum Runner IVMattapoisett, MACurrently; Barrington, RIOn Mar 28, 2021 12:24 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  wrote:We use Wax and Feed. https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Products-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner/dp/B001BKQYGWTom BuscagliaS/V Alera 1990 C 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200C 305.409.3660On Mar 27, 2021, at 6:15 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List  wrote:








I would agree with the vote for oil over polyurethane or varnish and certainly Cetol.  We used Watco teak oil for a while but did not like the smell, though it did give good results. For the last several years we have been using a product called Howard Feed
 n Wax that is beeswax and orange oil.  We typically get a season out of it with no dirt issues and a pleasant orange smell.  I just ordered another bottle on Amazon and would recommend it.




Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI




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From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 7:18:27 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?
 



Another vote for Old English lemon oil. IMO teak is not intended to be urethaned or any of the other. Just sets you up for more maintenance, stripping, scraping, etc, which is contrary to using teak in the first place.  Oil 2x each summer and looks like new.
 Wipe off excess and no dirt problems. 



Jeff Laman


1981 C


Harmony



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From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 7:50:53 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Leaving interior Teak natural?
 

Dean
My 32 came with the C advertised 'teak package'...teak everywhere...the V-birth, quarterberth, bulkheads, doors, head, dinette table teak veneer (I think), etc.

It is now 36 years old and has only ever been oiled. It still looks like new.  I have tried the 'designer oils' from yacht shops but prefer the stuff I buy at the grocery store Old English Lemon Oil

Now it means I oil the teak 2 maybe 3 times a year but isn't that why I own a 1984 C 32.

old
 english oil lemon - Bing

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S. 


On 2021-03-27 8:19 p.m., Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:


Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful teak interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m successfully removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light sand, I’m wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not a fan of oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be treating any exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or natural? Or something else?


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu






Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Great topic.

I use Watco Teak Oil.  I'm using the same can for nineteen years now.  I wipe 
down the whole interior with Pinesol to clean and prevent mold.  I keep a 64:1 
diluted spray bottle aboard.  It removes any mold and any surface dirt.  It 
also removes some of the oil so after it dries, I wipe down the wood with Watco 
Teak Oil and wipe off any excess.   I love the smell. 

I'll have to try the Old English Lemon Oil spray.

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R


> On 03/27/2021 7:47 PM Robert Abbott via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Dean
> My 32 came with the C advertised 'teak package'...teak everywhere...the 
> V-birth, quarterberth, bulkheads, doors, head, dinette table teak veneer (I 
> think), etc.
> 
> It is now 36 years old and has only ever been oiled. It still looks like 
> new.  I have tried the 'designer oils' from yacht shops but prefer the stuff 
> I buy at the grocery store Old English Lemon Oil
> 
> Now it means I oil the teak 2 maybe 3 times a year but isn't that why I 
> own a 1984 C 32.
> 
> old english oil lemon - Bing 
> https://www.bing.com/search?q=old+english+oil+lemon=ANSPH1=c5a6c1d1a0974c488104caef1d01fd8f=U531=3=UT=old+english+oil+=PRES1UT2=8-16=c5a6c1d1a0974c488104caef1d01fd8f
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> On 2021-03-27 8:19 p.m., Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful 
> > teak interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m 
> > successfully removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light 
> > sand, I’m wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not 
> > a fan of oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be 
> > treating any exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or 
> > natural? Or something else?
> > 
> > 
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Remote Vhf/Stereo Speakers

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Maybe the paste did not work. The poly planar external VHF speaker has
worked well for me for over 15 years.

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 8:08 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If your just want to hear the vhf traffic this little speaker works well.
> It is wire connected but lightweight and can be attached with adhesive
> backed loop and hook (velcro).
>
> On Sat, Mar 27, 2021 at 8:50 PM Cam Lubbock via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello All,
>>
>> Last season, my handheld VHF failed, and I find the nav station mounted
>> radio is hard to hear from the helm unless it is very loud which doesn’t
>> help kiddos napping on board.
>>
>> I have looked at upgrading the base station and adding a Ram mic, but
>> that is a huge expense for something I don’t use all that much. A new
>> handheld is also expensive and I find it a bit of a pain to always have to
>> charge it.
>>
>> Seeing as we would like to add cockpit speakers to our stereo, I was
>> thinking i could save a bunch of money and wire the speakers to both the
>> VHF and the stereo and have a SPDT (on-off-on) switch on the circuit to
>> choose between vhf to cockpit, stereo to cockpit, or cockpit speakers off.
>> I have 0 experience wiring speakers, so I’m wondering if this is something
>> that could work?
>>
>> Either way I want cockpit stereo speakers so I figure it’s worth a try to
>> add the vhf since it won’t take much work or expense. The speakers do
>> exceed the recommended minimum wattage and match the recommended impedance
>> for an external speaker from the vhf manual. Any advice or ideas would be
>> appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Cam
>> C 38 mkII Checkmate
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Remote Vhf/Stereo Speakers

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

If your just want to hear the vhf traffic this little speaker works well.
It is wire connected but lightweight and can be attached with adhesive
backed loop and hook (velcro).

On Sat, Mar 27, 2021 at 8:50 PM Cam Lubbock via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello All,
>
> Last season, my handheld VHF failed, and I find the nav station mounted
> radio is hard to hear from the helm unless it is very loud which doesn’t
> help kiddos napping on board.
>
> I have looked at upgrading the base station and adding a Ram mic, but that
> is a huge expense for something I don’t use all that much. A new handheld
> is also expensive and I find it a bit of a pain to always have to charge
> it.
>
> Seeing as we would like to add cockpit speakers to our stereo, I was
> thinking i could save a bunch of money and wire the speakers to both the
> VHF and the stereo and have a SPDT (on-off-on) switch on the circuit to
> choose between vhf to cockpit, stereo to cockpit, or cockpit speakers off.
> I have 0 experience wiring speakers, so I’m wondering if this is something
> that could work?
>
> Either way I want cockpit stereo speakers so I figure it’s worth a try to
> add the vhf since it won’t take much work or expense. The speakers do
> exceed the recommended minimum wattage and match the recommended impedance
> for an external speaker from the vhf manual. Any advice or ideas would be
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Cam
> C 38 mkII Checkmate
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu