Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Mantus M2 anchor
Interesting. Previously, I used a Delta 22# that worked fairly well. It always oriented itself to the bow roller and was easy to clean. 22# was a little too small for my 35 ft boat especially in higher winds and would drag unless I added a kellet and extended the scope. The M2 seems a better design overall. Mantus and a lister both suggested I add their $105 swivel so I will try that. It's expensive but easily worth it if it saves my back over time. It's very well made. Chuck S > On 06/28/2024 8:06 AM EDT Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > My Bruce anchor has the exact same problem. It is actually a large pain to > handle, but it is such a good anchor I can’t imagine going back to a Danforth. > > > > Joe Della Barba Coquina > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Mantus M2 anchor
Thanks Rick. Got the Mantus swivel and it's smartly engineered and nicely finished. I'll try it next time at the boat. I also contacted Mantus and they suggested the swivel also. They answered next day and followed up. Nice service. Thanks, Chuck > On 06/21/2024 9:24 PM EDT Rick Brass via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > Pretty much. When cranking in the chain we stopped with the end of the chain > and the swivel on the roller and the weight of the flukes tended to roll the > anchor so teh shank was on top. Might take a bit of ractice but worked on > that boat pretty well. > > -Original Message- > From: Stus-List > Sent: Jun 15, 2024 10:30 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: Rick Brass , CHARLES SCHEAFFER > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Mantus M2 anchor > > > > Thanks Rick, > > Might try that. ($105 on Amazon.) > > Did that swivel then work everytime to align the anchor? > > > Chuck > > > On 06/15/2024 8:04 AM EDT Rick Brass via CnC-List > > wrote: > > > > > > > > Had a similar problem on a catamaran I was delivering last year. Not a > > Mantus M2, but one of the Mantus anchors with a metal arch above the > > "fluke". It usually seemed to come up with the anchor oriented backwards > > to go over the roller, which was an annoying PITA. > > > > > > > > The owner and I put a swivel between the end of the chain and the shank of > > the anchor, and found that if you stopped cranking the anchor in briefly > > when the swivel got onto the bow roller the anchor would reorient itself > > with the heavy fluke on the bottom. YMMV. > > > > > > > > IIRC, the owner bought the swivel from Mantus, and it was pretty > > substantial. > > > > > > > > Rick Brass > > > > Imzadi C&C 38 > > > > Washington, NC > > > > -Original Message- > > From: Stus-List > > Sent: Jun 14, 2024 7:01 PM > > To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list > > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER > > Subject: Stus-List Mantus M2 anchor > > > > > > > > Anybody else with a Mantus M2 anchor out there? > > > > I just got a 35# M2 and used it a couple times. It sets quick and holds > > great. My problem is that the retrieval is harder than my old anchor > > because this one is heavier and it always orients backwards to the roller. > > I wind up having to manually turn it 180 degrees so it can make the turn > > onto the roller. It fits my bow roller fine, and deploys fine, but the > > retrieval has been a pain. Looking for solutions. > > > > > > Thanks, > > Chuck Scheaffer > > > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Mantus M2 anchor
Anybody else with a Mantus M2 anchor out there? I just got a 35# M2 and used it a couple times. It sets quick and holds great. My problem is that the retrieval is harder than my old anchor because this one is heavier and it always orients backwards to the roller. I wind up having to manually turn it 180 degrees so it can make the turn onto the roller. It fits my bow roller fine, and deploys fine, but the retrieval has been a pain. Looking for solutions. Thanks, Chuck Scheaffer Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Material choice & Sources for clear hatch boards
To reduce maintenance I removed the teak drop boards and made a single board from 1/2" King Starboard. I later made swinging doors from 3/4" PVC sheet from Home Depot with stainless take apart hinges. They look great and are easy to use. Made a storage shelf from thinner PVC material for the drop board and the doors so they can both be stowed below. Replaced the companionway slider with acrylic from Annapolis Maritime Plastics, 410-263-4424. He's pretty expensive but does quality work. Acrylic has doubled in price since Covid, but you can save money by using thinner material for everyday use and make a thicker, solid board for offshore voyaging. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis > On 05/29/2024 9:53 AM EDT Karl Kuzis via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Good day all, > > FIREFLY is in need of a hatch board upgrade from her one piece solid wood > slab. > Looking to move back to a 3 part style with (at least) 1 part made of a > clear(ish) plastic. > > The question to the group is who has used what type of plastic and how have > they held up. > (Plexiglass vs lexan vs ?) > > And associated, who has a good source for the material ? > > I have the ability to shape / cut / etc so I don't need a finished product, > simply raw stock material. > Thanks in advance for the input! > > Respectfully, Karl > > Karl Kuzis > FIREFLY - C&C 29 Mk 1 > karl.ku...@gmail.com mailto:karl.ku...@gmail.com > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Outhaul
Our C&C 34R came with a short wire outhaul that we added a 4:1 purchase that lives inside the boom. A 3/8" line exits the goosneck and is run back to a clutch next to the companionway. You can tension the outhaul by hand instead of using a winch, this way. Harken shows a diagram of this setup on their website. Chuck S > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Non Starting Universal / Westerbeke 5416
Got a Universal M4-30 on my 1989 C&C 34R. It has glow plugs and an electric fuel booster pump. It needs the glow plugs energized for a full minute before starting the engine when it's cold. I wait even longer when it's the first start of the season and the entire engine is cold. I'm pretty sure that's stated in the manual. You can feel each of the cylinders where the glow plugs are located, to check they are all working heating the cylinders. Ours usually starts on the first try if I have kept the glow plugs on long enough. The electric booster pump if you have one, makes a ticking sound (like a bomb timer) when we turn the key on. When the pump went bad, we were still able to start the engine and run her half speed, for hours until we fixed the bad ground and got the electric pump running again. An engine guy told me, "Rule of thumb is, don't try to start more than three times with the water intake open, as water may flood the lift muffler and back up into the engine." I think that's too cautious but be careful. You can try starting the engine with the intake valve closed, and risk damaging the water pump impellor, but they are cheap compared to other engine parts. You can open the valve once the engine starts. Good luck. Let us know what works. Chuck S > On 05/17/2024 10:18 PM EDT Todd Williams via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Looking for some input on my non starting Universal / Westerbeke diesel 5416 > on my 1980 C& C 34. It was running great at the end of last year but no go > from the start this year. > > It turns over great but no sounds of combustion. Battery is brand new. Oil > and transmission fluids are at proper levels and fresh. It sounds like the > glow plugs are working because the blower changes pitch with the increased > current draw. Fuel looks good, checked pickup for debris, changed fuel > filter, bled lines. I did have some electrical work done at the wiring > harness but I don’t think that would affect it. > > I am thinking either I need to look at the injectors and injector pump or I > need to do a compression test. I’ve read about both in online forums but > haven’t had the “opportunity” to dig this far into engine troubles. Any input > from the group on other diagnostic tests or possible sources of the issue? > Thanks in advance. > > TODD > Indigo Out We Go > 1980 C&C 34 > Saco, ME > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Draft question
Hey Chuck, Measuring draft can be tricky as the ground may slope to one side so a trick you can use is to place a long level under the keel and extend that out to the waterline, measure down to that. You can extend the level with a straight board or a ladder, and lay the level on it, to get the reference out to the waterline beam. A laser level or string level could also serve. Measure down from the scum line. I expect you have a fin keel, not a wing. They did offer a high performance fin keel of 8' 2" draft. The deeper draft keel allows the builder to reduce the weight, so the boat moves easier in lighter air. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis > On 05/06/2024 10:10 PM EDT Chuck Saur via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Hey guys...help me out? Trying to get my PHRF numbers correct, and since Lake > Michigan is getting thinner, how much water I have under my keel. So...I've > been using a 5'11" figure for our 1990 37/40+ Daydream, hull 51. I found > this, and other rig measures listed on the Sailboatdata.com website. I just > saw another measurement on the CNC listserv in the 37/40+ site, and it is > 5'6". In fact, all the wingy 37/40+ boats listed here have the 5'6" draft > listed. > > So. I went out and measured my waterline to the floor (86"), and subtracted > the height of the block under my keel (-6"). My final measurement is > 80"...or last I did the math...a whopping draft of 6'8". What the heck? Am I > missing something? > > I wonder what my PHRF oughta be...and better stay outa shallow-er areas now!! > > I asked our ex-C&C dealer here, and they guessed it might be a custom thing. > Anyone heard of this? Or have variations of the 5'6" or 5'11"? > > > > Chuck Saur > > 517 490-5926 Cell > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Hints on swapping winches?
Hey David, That's cool. You made an adapter plate, so you didn't change the holes through the deck. That's a cool trick. Thanks, Chuck S > On 03/23/2024 2:33 PM EDT David Knecht via CnC-List > wrote: > > > When I swapped an old non-self tailing winch with a new Harken winch, I > decided I wanted to re-use the holes from the previous winch. So I bought a > circular aluminum plate the size of the winch base, drilled holes through it > in the pattern of the original winch, then drilled and tapped holes to match > the new winch base to secure the new winch base. I am happy with the result. > Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > > > > On Mar 22, 2024, at 8:23 PM, Dean McNeill via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > I'm about to finally replace my old 2 speed Barient 25 primary winches on > > my C&C 34, with Harken 46 Self tailing winches. > > Anyone have experience doing a similar swap? I fully expect I’ll need to > > fill old holes and drill new ones. And probably glass in aluminum or > > plywood backing plates. > > > > Any other hints and tips? > > > > Thanks, Dean > > BarraWind > > 1980 C&C 34 > > Halifax, NS > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Hints on swapping winches?
When I relocated our winches, I used a trick from the West System manual to get a nice flat surface for the winch on a crowned coachtop. I epoxied 1/4" piece of G-10, cut to the size of the winch base and epoxied that to the coach roof. Before glassing it down, I located the holes in the plate and on the coachroof. To seal the core, I drilled those holes to 3/4", dug out the balsa a further 1/4 back taped underneath, and primed with neat epoxy, and filled the whole cavity with thickened epoxy. I epoxied the plate on to the coachtop and after it was cured, drilled the proper sized holes and countersunk them for bedding. I added the original aluminum backing backing plate, underneath and bedded, using Butyl. I've used that trick several times since to add Solar Fans to the crowned drck, and raise deckfills, and deck hardware. It's not as complicated as it sounds. I made my own 1/4" thick backing plates, but G-10 is much more convenient. It has a smooth finished surface and is available in so many thicknesses. Chuck S > On 03/22/2024 8:23 PM EDT Dean McNeill via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I'm about to finally replace my old 2 speed Barient 25 primary winches on my > C&C 34, with Harken 46 Self tailing winches. > Anyone have experience doing a similar swap? I fully expect I’ll need to fill > old holes and drill new ones. And probably glass in aluminum or plywood > backing plates. > > Any other hints and tips? > > Thanks, Dean > BarraWind > 1980 C&C 34 > Halifax, NS > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Propeller Strut
I have a different boat, but the strut is through bolted to a very thick backing plate with four very large bolts, maybe 3/8". I also believe the hull is about an inch thick at that point. I encourage you to look further. You may have to remove the floor and/or box. Chuck S > On 03/03/2024 8:08 PM EST Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Does any know how the strut on an 84 Landfall 35 is affixed. I'm wondering > if there is a backing plate because if so there is no access to that part of > the hull as they installed the floor and box over it. Or is it just screwed > in? > > That part of the hull doesnt seem partcularly thick or strong. I'm wondering > if glassing over it to re-enforce it is a possibility?? > > Thanks in advance! > > Peter Cowenhoven > 1984 Landfall 35 > Clinton, CT > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > https://mail.onelink.me/107872968?pid=nativeplacement&c=Global_Acquisition_YMktg_315_Internal_EmailSignature&af_sub1=Acquisition&af_sub2=Global_YMktg&af_sub3=&af_sub4=10604&af_sub5=EmailSignature__Static_ > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Does anyone know if Winchmate is still in business?
Amazon has the Wincher by Barton Marine: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=barton+marine+winchers&language=en_US&adgrpid=1229254346477780&hvadid=76828564597116&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=90118&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-76828674595515%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=17789_13577536&tag=txtstdbgdt-20&ref=pd_sl_6d21nr1pho_p > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium vs AGM
Just reporting back that I changed my two AGM group 31s yesterday with two new AGM group 31s. I thought 31's were a little bit bigger than 27's. Either size fits in my OEM battery boxes. I still have the original battery switch, "off, one, both, two" so either battery can start or power the house loads. It's not state of the art, but works. I can't justify the cost to upgrade to lithium. The batteries are very close to AGMs now, but the extra controllers needed to do a proper install push this upgrade to $2500 to $3000. I'll probably sell my boat in a few years, so I won't give in to the lithium temptation. I added a $120 Victron "smart shunt" which I recommend to others when replacing batteries. This device reads the amps going through the negative back to the battery, which wirelessly sends battery info to any smart phone, no display needed. Just for fun, I recorded all the loads in my boat, so I can better plan. It verified that my fridge only uses 48 watts when it runs and the LED lights and Canframo fans are super efficient. I still need to change a couple of flourescent light fixtures that draw the highest amps, to LEDs. Summary: If I lived on my boat, or planned to keep her for more than five years, I'd upgrade to a Lithium system and add solar. Otherwise, I will use my AGM batteries and might add a third AGM for more amphours when cruising. The new batteries were 72# each, ugh. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, AnnapolisPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Lithium vs AGM
Hi Brian, I watched hundreds of videos installing lithium battery systems in sailboats and also in RVs. I found MarineHowTo.com had a link to Victron diagrams and there are many many videos describing each Victron module on YouTube. I didn't go very deep into solar panels, which is probably where I'd start if our boat was on a mooring. My situation is different. Our boat is in a slip with 30amp power available and we enjoy air conditioning, no extra charge. I couldn't build a lithium/solar system large enough to support air conditioning so it lost a lot of attraction. We mostly daysail and return to the slip. When we cruise, my wife prefers a marina over anchoring out, where they have a pool, so we take a slip at a marina and plug in. We enjoy walking strange towns and learning the history and finding good restaurants and live music and meeting new people. It's all part of the adventure of cruising. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R Annapolis > On 02/16/2024 6:03 AM EST nausetbeach--- via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > Chuck, Bill and any others: > > > > I am in a similar position; my batteries are on their last legs. Was hoping > to make another season with them but need to dive into LFP batteries as a > potential replacement. Some people really like AGM, but my understanding is > they need to be brought back to 100% SOC and I am on a mooring so cannot just > plug in at the end of the day. > > > > Where / what sites have you been using to learn about LFP batteries? So far > I have looked [but need to spend more time at] Rod Collins “Marine How To” > site, and Ocean Planet. > > > > I also need to get up to speed as best as I can on solar – so any suggestions > there as well. Have spent some time on the “alltestore . com” site. > > > > Thanks, > > Brian > > > > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2024 6:15 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER > Subject: Stus-List Lithium vs AGM > > > > Hey Bill, > > > > I am replacing my 12 and 13 year old AGM batteries with AGMs. I spent at > least 40 hours this winter learning about Lithium, because decent lithium > batteries can be found for a few dollars more than AGMs. But I don't have > room on my boat for the inverter/charger and all the costs of that and all > the modules and cables, required to complete a system like that, pushes a > lithium project way over my budget. I am installing a Victron shunt to read > my power useage and monitor various loads, and I'm adding some fuses at each > battery, so I can always upgrade the system later, if it's warranted. > > > > I'll be adding a cheap 1000watt pure sine wave inverter to power my TV, DVD, > chargers and coffee maker. > > > > Curious about your project. > > > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis > > > > > > > > > On 02/15/2024 4:27 PM EST Bill Coleman via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I'm a little surprised, I would have expected a progressive fellow such as > > yourself to be jumping into lithium. I am wasting an inordinate amount of > > time researching charger inverters, and I think although the lithium > > batteries may come down more in the future, I think because I need new > > batteries the time is now. > > > > > > > > Bill Coleman > > > > > > > > On Thu, Feb 15, 2024, 12:34 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > I recently got a big AGM battery that needs a big charger. I have a > > > > ProNautic 15 amp charger with a battery temperature probe that is > > > > necessary for correct charging of any lead-acid battery. It can charge > > > > 1, 2, or 3 batteries and has a lot of settings for various charge > > > > profiles. > > > > > > > > It works fine, it is only being removed because I got a bigger charger. > > > > They sell for $350-$400 new, I will send this one to any USA address > > > > for $150 shipped. Canada might be more, I would have to check. > > > > > > > > (Odyssey battery company told me they want their battery charged with > > > > at least a 30 amp charger and ideally a lot more, apparently they need > > > > to be hit hard to stay good) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > &
Stus-List Re: Lithium vs AGM
Hey Dave, Your work looks very professional and the write up is great. Thanks for sharing. Chuck S > On 02/16/2024 7:30 AM EST Dave S via CnC-List wrote: > > > C&C 33 mark ii Windstar > http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/search/label/Solar%20and%20Batteries?m=1 > cncwindstar.blogspot.com > http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/search/label/Solar%20and%20Batteries?m=1 > [favicon.ico] > http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/search/label/Solar%20and%20Batteries?m=1 > > Here are a series of posts documenting my experience with exactly the same > upgrade. > In a nutshell, 175w of solar and 200ah of lithium house bank allowed me to > be off the grid May and September. (Toronto area, fridge running). I > think this is a perfect size for a 32-37’ boat, similarly equipped.I sold > windstar last year and the new owner told me that her marine electrician > checked the installation and told her it was ‘done right’. I’ve upgraded my > new boat to LiFePo and wouldn’t think twice about it, unless perhaps I had a > requirement to charge the bank in freezing cold. > The loads and use cases I considered are all documented on that blog. > > Dave > Ex- 33-2 Windstar > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Feb 16, 2024, at 6:04 AM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > Chuck, Bill and any others: > > > > > > > > I am in a similar position; my batteries are on their last legs. Was > > hoping to make another season with them but need to dive into LFP batteries > > as a potential replacement. Some people really like AGM, but my > > understanding is they need to be brought back to 100% SOC and I am on a > > mooring so cannot just plug in at the end of the day. > > > > > > > > Where / what sites have you been using to learn about LFP batteries? So > > far I have looked [but need to spend more time at] Rod Collins “Marine How > > To” site, and Ocean Planet. > > > > > > > > I also need to get up to speed as best as I can on solar – so any > > suggestions there as well. Have spent some time on the “alltestore . com” > > site. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Brian > > > > > > > > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > > Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2024 6:15 PM > > To: Stus-List > > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER > > Subject: Stus-List Lithium vs AGM > > > > > > > > Hey Bill, > > > > > > > > I am replacing my 12 and 13 year old AGM batteries with AGMs. I spent at > > least 40 hours this winter learning about Lithium, because decent lithium > > batteries can be found for a few dollars more than AGMs. But I don't have > > room on my boat for the inverter/charger and all the costs of that and all > > the modules and cables, required to complete a system like that, pushes a > > lithium project way over my budget. I am installing a Victron shunt to > > read my power useage and monitor various loads, and I'm adding some fuses > > at each battery, so I can always upgrade the system later, if it's > > warranted. > > > > > > > > I'll be adding a cheap 1000watt pure sine wave inverter to power my TV, > > DVD, chargers and coffee maker. > > > > > > > > Curious about your project. > > > > > > > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 02/15/2024 4:27 PM EST Bill Coleman via CnC-List > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'm a little surprised, I would have expected a progressive fellow such > > > as yourself to be jumping into lithium. I am wasting an inordinate amount > > > of time researching charger inverters, and I think although the lithium > > > batteries may come down more in the future, I think because I need new > > > batteries the time is now. > > > > > > > > > > > > Bill Coleman > > > > > > > > > > > > On Thu, Feb 15, 2024, 12:34 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I recently got a big AGM battery that needs a big charger. I have a > > > > > ProNautic 15 amp charger with a battery temperature probe that is &g
Stus-List Lithium vs AGM
Hey Bill, I am replacing my 12 and 13 year old AGM batteries with AGMs. I spent at least 40 hours this winter learning about Lithium, because decent lithium batteries can be found for a few dollars more than AGMs. But I don't have room on my boat for the inverter/charger and all the costs of that and all the modules and cables, required to complete a system like that, pushes a lithium project way over my budget. I am installing a Victron shunt to read my power useage and monitor various loads, and I'm adding some fuses at each battery, so I can always upgrade the system later, if it's warranted. I'll be adding a cheap 1000watt pure sine wave inverter to power my TV, DVD, chargers and coffee maker. Curious about your project. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis > On 02/15/2024 4:27 PM EST Bill Coleman via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I'm a little surprised, I would have expected a progressive fellow such as > yourself to be jumping into lithium. I am wasting an inordinate amount of > time researching charger inverters, and I think although the lithium > batteries may come down more in the future, I think because I need new > batteries the time is now. > > Bill Coleman > > On Thu, Feb 15, 2024, 12:34 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > I recently got a big AGM battery that needs a big charger. I have a > > > ProNautic 15 amp charger with a battery temperature probe that is > > > necessary for correct charging of any lead-acid battery. It can charge 1, > > > 2, or 3 batteries and has a lot of settings for various charge profiles. > > > > > > It works fine, it is only being removed because I got a bigger charger. > > > They sell for $350-$400 new, I will send this one to any USA address for > > > $150 shipped. Canada might be more, I would have to check. > > > > > > (Odyssey battery company told me they want their battery charged with at > > > least a 30 amp charger and ideally a lot more, apparently they need to be > > > hit hard to stay good) > > > > > > > > > > > Joe Della Barba > > > > Coquina C&C 35 MK I > > > > Kent Island MD USA > > > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Seacock elbows and tees
Consider elbows and tees on seacocks. Our boat came with elbows on all the seacocks and the hoses were routed to lay along the inside of the hull and that gave good access to lockers. I read a tip from Don Casey on the engine raw water intakes and changed the elbow to a tee with a plug so I can more easily winterize the engine or unclog the thruhull from inside during the sailing season. The tee also provides a place to connect a hose to run the engine when the boat is on the hard, something I always do before launching. The tee normally has a bronze plug on top and gets a hose-to-pipe adapter when using a hose. Chuck SPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C 35 mk3 shaft line questions
Gotta do the same project. I think you are over thinking this. The OD of the hose is irrelevant. The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary between models and years. Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right. I look forward to the replies. Chuck S > On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Hey folks, I'm hoping the C&C community will help me out. > > Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard. > > Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the > cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the > length is 4", but what is the OD?? > > Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the > shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove > the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've heard) > is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it has a > nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but once you > get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very good > interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing > transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather than > the nice "hug" of an interference fit. > Q1: is this a real thing? > Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems? > > Thanks a bunch!! > > -Keith M > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C 66
Beautiful boat but she's priced pretty high. I'd like to see her keel, probably a big shark fin. 10 foot draft, eight steps down the companionway ladder, the sails must be huge and the number of crew needed to take her sailing need to be pretty fit to handle the loads. Probably need a team to carry one sail from the car to the boat. The view from inside the boat is probably dark and only cabinetry. You can't see the deck or the water from inside the boat. Chuck S > On 01/16/2024 6:16 PM EST Joel Delamirande via CnC-List > wrote: > > > It been for sale for a long time > > Joel Delamirandehttp://www.jdroofing.ca > > > > On Tue, Jan 16, 2024 at 6:01 PM John McCrea via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > An amazing boat! > > > > https://www.berthoninternational.com/yacht-sales-brokerage/yachts-for-sale/c-c-66-classic-cruiser-racer-phantom/?fbclid=IwAR1irExXpYusoRn5xUBQHiDEmqzmyrERCsB4M3Tio6KGWC9tYToEP0AdsVg_aem_Ac9padFR6qIGBFwMyRwnXMEsNd-DB6fTpAkFP5eGOOlJIZ0SJjYDKZvigftdzZHKy9w > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Offshore global races - anybody watching?
Hey Dennis, I try to follow all the races. The start and finish of the Sydney Hobart Race was spectacular with so many drones giving the perspective from different angles. I watched the start of the OGR Leg 3 this morning on YouTube. So great to see the boats sailing. I've been a fan of Francois Gabart on the ultimate SVR, since he won the Vendee Globe a while back. Thanks for the links, gotta get back to replumbing a sink at the house. I was just checking for parts online. Chuck > On 01/14/2024 11:55 AM EST Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Anybody watching the global races right now? > > Ocean Globe Race Leg 3 just started - https://oceangloberace.com/livetracker/ > > Global Solo Challenge - https://globalsolochallenge.com/tracking/ > > Arkea Ultim Challenge - > https://www.arkeaultimchallengebrest.com/en/classement (expand live map at > bottom left) > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Navtec hydraulic backstay - discouraging amateur rebuild
Hey Dennis, No worries. Your ram sounds good to go. My long story, longer: It's been two years since my Navtec adventure. At the time, I watched many YouTube videos on rebuilding hydraulic rams, and thought "I can do that". The two seals on the piston are made of a very hard rubber and sit in a deep square groove. Videos show running a thin strap through the hole to stretch the seal around the piston. I think I used a string, but it was very challenging. I then ran into the hurdle of getting the piston back into the cylinder with new seals. On the bottom end of the cylinder, the inner walls are sloped to safely compress the seals during reassembly. But there are threads that make this challenging and my new seal caught on those threads. I believe the shop has a special ring compressor they use for assembly. It happened in June and I missed three weeks of sailing, taking it off and waiting for the shop, then ordering parts and failing to fix it and getting new parts and finally getting the ram shop to fix it. So now is a good time to check your hydraulics so you don't miss any sailing. Chuck S > On 01/09/2024 10:16 AM EST Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Chuck, > > Don't disagree with anything you said. The seals I replaced were probably > the simplest ones in the unit requiring no special tools. As I alluded to in > my post, it was a simple rebuild with no mitigating issues. > > I chose to not replace the main piston seals. Fortunately, they seem to be > doing well. The unit is still holding about 500-600 psi after over 48 hours. > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Mon, Jan 8, 2024 at 12:50 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > FWIW, I tried to rebuild my backstay ram two summers ago and learned the > > hard way, I didn't have the proper tools to do it myself. I wound up > > taking the thing to a local shop and they finished it for me. I got a > > rebuild kit from Offshore Spars and followed the detailed instructions that > > Dennis shared and got all the specific seals on the rod and piston but > > couldn't get the piston back into the cylinder. A new seal jambed on the > > inside threads of the cylinder. Desperate, I took it to the shop and they > > looked at it, ordered a new $15 seal which took a few days and installed it > > while I waited, the next Saturday. > > > > IIRC, the parts were $120 and the guy charged me $50 for ten minutes work. > > Plus, I gave him $20 to look at it. Not bad. > > > > I'd rather use my local shop that has all the tools and ram expertise. I > > only tried to rebuild it myself that time, because the front office said > > they couldn't get to it for a month and I would have missed a month of > > sailing. > > > > I learned that at my local hydraulics shop, during the week, the women in > > the front office schedule the jobs and everything waits for months. On > > Saturday, the front office is closed and the workers in the back, are happy > > to help people in distress. > > > > Another thought, the O-ring seal at the top of the ram is an easy DIY > > project because that seal lives in the top cap that unscrews from the > > cylinder. You still have to follow the instructions to work on it, to be > > safe, but it is a simpler job than rebuilding the whole unit which has > > multiple seals inside. My local shop repaced that seal fifteen years back > > for $35 and then bench tested the unit to #4000 for me, to prove that was > > the only thing needed. This time around, I thought I should rebuild the > > whole unit for peace of mind. > > > > Tip: This is the best time of year to check your hydraulic rams and get > > them fixed. Don't wait, like I did, till Spring. > > > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Navtec hydraulic backstay - discouraging amateur rebuild
FWIW, I tried to rebuild my backstay ram two summers ago and learned the hard way, I didn't have the proper tools to do it myself. I wound up taking the thing to a local shop and they finished it for me. I got a rebuild kit from Offshore Spars and followed the detailed instructions that Dennis shared and got all the specific seals on the rod and piston but couldn't get the piston back into the cylinder. A new seal jambed on the inside threads of the cylinder. Desperate, I took it to the shop and they looked at it, ordered a new $15 seal which took a few days and installed it while I waited, the next Saturday. IIRC, the parts were $120 and the guy charged me $50 for ten minutes work. Plus, I gave him $20 to look at it. Not bad. I'd rather use my local shop that has all the tools and ram expertise. I only tried to rebuild it myself that time, because the front office said they couldn't get to it for a month and I would have missed a month of sailing. I learned that at my local hydraulics shop, during the week, the women in the front office schedule the jobs and everything waits for months. On Saturday, the front office is closed and the workers in the back, are happy to help people in distress. Another thought, the O-ring seal at the top of the ram is an easy DIY project because that seal lives in the top cap that unscrews from the cylinder. You still have to follow the instructions to work on it, to be safe, but it is a simpler job than rebuilding the whole unit which has multiple seals inside. My local shop repaced that seal fifteen years back for $35 and then bench tested the unit to #4000 for me, to prove that was the only thing needed. This time around, I thought I should rebuild the whole unit for peace of mind. Tip: This is the best time of year to check your hydraulic rams and get them fixed. Don't wait, like I did, till Spring. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C 37 Rudder post assembly
Maybe take the damaged part to a stainless fabricator and get his advice. C > On 12/11/2023 3:53 PM EST Richard Bush via CnC-List > wrote: > > > To follow Up; I called Rob at South Shore; he was very patient and listened > to my tale of woe; he said that there was no "off the shelf" part for this > collar and that my best bet would be to have a local machine shop fabricate > one; I have looked at the list on McMaster-Carr (sent by Chris Reidinger) and > I am not sure if any of those would be a replacement or not, but dsurely > something in there should be a place to start...any thought ? Thanks again > > Richard > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > (502) 584-7255 > > > On Saturday, December 9, 2023 at 09:53:00 AM EST, Matthew Wolford via > CnC-List wrote: > > > I suggest starting there. If Rob doesn’t have one, he may be able to suggest > an alternate source. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Dec 9, 2023, at 9:47 AM, Barry McKee via CnC-List > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Yes they are. > > > > Barry McKee > > > > C&C 29 “Discovery II” > > Bronte, ON > > > > From: Matthew Wolford via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] > Sent: 9-Dec-23 8:24 AM > To: Richard Bush > Cc: Stus-List; Matthew Wolford > Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 37 Rudder post assembly > > > > Is South Shore Yachts still in business? > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Dec 8, 2023, at 3:00 PM, Richard Bush wrote: > > > > > > > > > Hi all; Bill is the winner for long distance diagnosing...; there is a > > chrome "collar" or "nut' which is threaded and the the top of the rudder > > post which is also threaded; the collar is tightened down over the rudder > > post and sits on a delrin "washer" which is about 1/8 inch thick. There are > > two set screws in the collar to keep it tight n the rudder post. The > > rudder pivots on this assembly when steering the boat. > > > > > > > > In my case, these set screws apparently loosened up to allow the collar to > > loosen which caused play in the rudder post. The result was to strip the > > threads on the collar allowing the rudder to drop. The fix is to get a new > > collar, which I hope someone here can help my in identifying; there are no > > markings or part numbers on the collar. Of course, I have lots of photos. > > > > > > > > For a quick fix, we were able to invert the collar and use the remaining > > threads ( about 1/2" to 5/8") to hold the rudder in place. I am confident > > that this will work until I can identify and order the new collar. > > > > > > > > So it seems I have been lucky and my situation fits under Mike Hoyt's "good > > case" scenario rather than the whole assembly failing, which is the "bad > > case" scenario. I feel a lot better than I did 24 hours ago, but will > > report back on progress. I would have thought the C&C used the same > > assembly for all of the rudders regardless of the model of the boat, but > > maybe not...; > > > > > > > > If anyone ha any experience or suggestions in locating the "collar, please > > send them on...Thank you to everyone! > > > > > > > > Richard > > > > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > > > > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > > > > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > > > > (502) 584-7255 > > > > > > > > > > > > On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 03:37:58 PM EST, Bill Coleman via CnC-List > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I thought there was a nut on the top of the post. If so, it may have come > > off and it slipped down till the quadrant hit the hull. Obviously you are > > going to have to go down an look, and all things shall be revealed unto you > > > > > > > > Bill Coleman > > > > Erie PA > > > > > > > > > > > > On Thu, Dec 7, 2023 at 3:15 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi all; I am in need the collective wisdom of the group for a rudder > > > issue; my boat (1985 C&C 37 CB) has been sitting on a trailer since early > > > September for repairs to the hull, not rudder related; sometime in the > > > past week the rudder has dropped a full two plus inches and no one knows > > > how this happened; the hull has been painted and the painters said they > > > moved the rudder by moving the steering wheel and had no issues; does > > > anyone have any ideas or suggests about what could have occurred? and > > > more importantly, what needs to be done to make the rudder usable? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > We were hoping to relaunch in the next week or so...I'll be happy to > > > provide more information if anyone has questions...Thanks! > > > > > > > > > > > > Richard > > > > > > 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > > > > > > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > > > > > > Loui
Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for backstay
Hey Paul, The hydraulic shop was very adamant about changing the fluid, but I forget why. Maybe the 10 weight has a higher viscosity than power steering fluid? The Navtec owner's manual states the same fluid. I'll send it to you in a separate email. My system has a single -10 Navtec cylinder, a remote hand pump, and reservoir and one guart was more than enough to fill the system, so it was an easy change, IIRC. Chuck > On 11/21/2023 10:03 PM EST Paul Hood via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > Hey Chuck, what were the reasons for the fluid change? > > > > Paul Hood > > REFUGE – 1981 C&C34 on Georgian Bay /) > > > > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2023 7:31 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: Paul Fountain ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for > backstay > > > > Used a local NJ hydraulic shop twice in 21 years owning my boat. > > I typically leave 500# pressure at the slip and keep a SS washer on the rod > above the cylinder to protect that O-ring seal from UVs. The pressure holds > for months. > > > > Fluid: The hydraulic shop advised me to change the original fluid that > looked like transmission fluid or power steering fluid to 10 weight > non-detergent fluid. Easily found at auto stores like NAPA. > > > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R Annapolis > > > > > On 11/17/2023 8:44 PM EST Paul Fountain via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I always bring mine home, think the extreme cold and dry weather when > > combined with the lack of use are bad for the seals. > > > > > > > > Get Outlook for iOS https://aka.ms/o0ukef > > > > > > - > > > > From: paul.hood via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > Sent: Friday, November 17, 2023 6:48:48 PM > > To: David Risch via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > Cc: paul.hood mailto:paul.h...@rogers.com> > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for > > backstay > > > > > > > > Went to a specialty hydralics shop to get mine fixed. They couldn't don't. > > Went elsewhere and they did fine. Still wasn't cheap. Done work on the 2 > > hydralics and the pump. > > > > > > > > Seems I do have periodic failures in the backstay and pump (seals) too > > often and usually experienced after the winter. Not sure if the winters up > > here play havoc with the seals but I've taken them off now in the fall. > > They're now stored indoors for the winter. Hoping to avoid the expensive > > and time consuming spring fixes. > > > > > > > > > > > > Paul Hood > > > > 416.799.5549 > > > > > > > > > > > > Original message > > > > From: David Risch via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > > > Date: 2023-11-17 6:27 p.m. (GMT-05:00) > > > > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > > > Cc: David Risch mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com> > > > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for > > backstay > > > > > > > > Just go to a local hydraulic shop. Sorry as a Navtech “technician” ripped > > me off for two “re-builds” in two years at $500 an incompetent rebuild. > > Construction guys don’t tolerate that crap. $100 once and done. It is > > just a pump. > > > > > > > > From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > Sent: Friday, November 17, 2023 2:12 PM > > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > Cc: Matthew L. Wolford mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for > > backstay > > > > > > > > I also like Lew, whom I contacted based on recommendations from this list. > > That said, he’s not from NJ (far from it), and shipping cost almost as much > > as the work. Also, the rebuild work I had done was prophylactic, and my > > unit now has a very minor leak that it didn’t have before. I’m sure he’d > > fix it if I sent it back. Bottom line: as much as I like Lew, I suggest > > finding someone local. > > > > Sent from my iPhone &
Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for backstay
Used a local NJ hydraulic shop twice in 21 years owning my boat. I typically leave 500# pressure at the slip and keep a SS washer on the rod above the cylinder to protect that O-ring seal from UVs. The pressure holds for months. Fluid: The hydraulic shop advised me to change the original fluid that looked like transmission fluid or power steering fluid to 10 weight non-detergent fluid. Easily found at auto stores like NAPA. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R Annapolis > On 11/17/2023 8:44 PM EST Paul Fountain via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I always bring mine home, think the extreme cold and dry weather when > combined with the lack of use are bad for the seals. > > Get Outlook for iOS https://aka.ms/o0ukef > > - > From: paul.hood via CnC-List > Sent: Friday, November 17, 2023 6:48:48 PM > To: David Risch via CnC-List > Cc: paul.hood > Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for > backstay > > Went to a specialty hydralics shop to get mine fixed. They couldn't don't. > Went elsewhere and they did fine. Still wasn't cheap. Done work on the 2 > hydralics and the pump. > > Seems I do have periodic failures in the backstay and pump (seals) too often > and usually experienced after the winter. Not sure if the winters up here > play havoc with the seals but I've taken them off now in the fall. They're > now stored indoors for the winter. Hoping to avoid the expensive and time > consuming spring fixes. > > > Paul Hood > 416.799.5549 > > > Original message > From: David Risch via CnC-List > Date: 2023-11-17 6:27 p.m. (GMT-05:00) > To: Stus-List > Cc: David Risch > Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for > backstay > > > Just go to a local hydraulic shop. Sorry as a Navtech “technician” ripped me > off for two “re-builds” in two years at $500 an incompetent rebuild. > Construction guys don’t tolerate that crap. $100 once and done. It is > just a pump. > > > > From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List > Sent: Friday, November 17, 2023 2:12 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: Matthew L. Wolford > Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for > backstay > > > > I also like Lew, whom I contacted based on recommendations from this list. > That said, he’s not from NJ (far from it), and shipping cost almost as much > as the work. Also, the rebuild work I had done was prophylactic, and my unit > now has a very minor leak that it didn’t have before. I’m sure he’d fix it > if I sent it back. Bottom line: as much as I like Lew, I suggest finding > someone local. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > On Nov 17, 2023, at 1:37 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Second Lew Townsend. He rebuilt mine after another Navtec rebuilder > > botched it. Excellent to work with. > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Dennis C. > > > > Touche' 35-1 #83 > > > > Mandeville, LA > > > > > > > > On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 8:55 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > Lew Townsend did all my Navtec hydraulic repairs. Don't know whether he > > > does Sailtec, but you can call him at (206) 498-7282. He does quality > > > work. Others on the list have also used him. > > > > > > > > > > > > Alan Bergen > > > > > > 35 Mk III Thirsty > > > > > > Rose City YC > > > > > > Portland, OR > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 6:36 AM Allen Miles via CnC-List > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Good morning All, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Septima has moved from Hampton Roads, VA to Bayville, NJ. Upon arrival > > > > we noticed that the hydraulic cylinders for the backstay were leaking. > > > > Does anyone have recommendations on a reputable service to rebuild them > > > > in the NJ area? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > They are Sailtec branded. However, the marina we are in refuses to do > > > > business with them based on previous bad experiences. Love to support > > > > local businesses but also want a quality job. Any suggestions > > > > appreciated. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks and have a great weekend, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Allen Miles > > > > > > > > 30 Mk II, Septima > > > > > > > > Bayville, NJ > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site > > > > and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!qs2Qvcff0x2r9Xu484Io53CdPY1cNhT0tOLx9hjHxOpx03avqPpvzczr7rQ5cI-zSB2xudbFXoqRejPEBjRfjcI$ > > > > Thanks for your help. > > > > Stu > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > > help me pay the associated
Stus-List Re: winter storage cradle
Hey Bill, I'd like to see pictures of cradles that impressed you. Thanks, Chuck > On 10/28/2023 6:44 PM EDT Bill Coleman via CnC-List > wrote: > > > As Matt mentioned, after a couple boats blew over at our club, they came out > with an edict that any boats with masts up will have to be on a cradle. That > is not to say that a boat can't blow over in a cradle, there are tons of > poorly designed cradles, or poorly maintained cradles around. I have made > several over the years, and just this fall got roped into revamping a > Catalina 36 cradle. He gave me the original drawings for the cradle, I > couldn't believe it was an original design by Catalina - the whole thing, > even the longitudinal stringers were only 4" channel, which, after being > picked up by the ends, which is how they move cradles here, it sagged down > about 6". So it got two new 8" I beams longitudinally and two crosswise under > the keel. I would have made it more than 8 feet wide, but the dockmaster told > me it couldn't be more than that. The point here, I guess is to get a good > cradle. There are a few down at our club that are an amazing design. They > are made by Viking Trailers, in Butler, PA, Unfortunately , they don't > have any pictures on their site of them, if anyone is interested I can send a > picture. There are four uprights per side, all adjustable in, out, and up, > and also have fold down flaps to stabilize it up to 12' wide. Really well > thought out. > > Bill Coleman > Erie PA Entrada > > On Wed, Oct 18, 2023 at 10:19 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > Re mast up. A friend stored his C&C 33-2 with mast up and it blew over in > > a winter storm. He now has no mast. > > > > > > > > With mast down possibly the reduced windage would have prevented the boat > > from blowing over but certainly would have not resulted in a mast broken in > > three areas. The boat was on a cradle. > > > > > > > > Food for thought > > > > > > > > Mike Hoyt > > > > Persistence > > > > Halifax, NS > > > > > > > > From: Bob Mann via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 10:45 AM > > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > Cc: Bob Mann mailto:sailrm...@comcast.net> > > Subject: Stus-List winter storage > > > > > > > > Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For those > > who store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or > > do you loosen the shrouds for the winter? Bob Mann Mystic > > > > > > > > > > Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For those > > who store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or > > do you loosen the shrouds for the winter? > > > > > > > > Bob Mann > > > > Mystic > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Fundraising time
Sorry for your loss. Thanks for all you do. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R AnnapolisPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Mac Navigation options?
I've always been a PC and android guy. I find my android S22 has such a great screen, I run Navionics. I got a clamp from Amazon meant to hold the phone to bicycle handlbars and it holds the cell phone to the pedestal guard to navigate. Navionics has a free one week trial, $25/year. Price just rose to $50/year but I think it's worth it. I'm still learning how to use it but I love how it plans routes automatically, once you enter your boat's draft, speed, etc. It includes tide, weather, current and other info also. I use free aaps; "Marinetraffic.com" to see AIS targets, and "Igetwind" for weather forecasting at mutilple locations by the hour, out to ten days. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis On 10/22/2023 1:46 PM EDT Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote: > > > Dean, I have to admit that I find my iPads almost indispensable. I recommend > getting one. Make sure you get a cellular capable one—you don’t have to > activate the cell service but you need to be cellular capable in order to get > the GPS. > Andy > > Andrew Burton > 26 Beacon Hill > Newport, RI > USA 02840 > > +401 965 5260 > https://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > > > > > > On Oct 22, 2023, at 12:23, Dean McNeill via CnC-List > > wrote: > > > > > > > Thanks guys, I checked out both Active Captain and Aquamaps and they only > > run on iPhone or iPad. Really hoping to find something that works on a Mac > > laptop. Have found both OpenCPN and MacENC64 but nautical maps of > > NovaScotia Canada are either unavailable or crazy expensive. > > > > Perhaps I have to break down and buy an iPad and use either Navionics, > > ActiveCaptian or AquaMaps. > > > > Dean > > > > BarraWind > > C&C34 > > Halifax, Nova Scotia > > > > > > > > > On Oct 22, 2023, at 1:02 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > > > wrote: > > > > > > I love my Aquamap 😊 > > > > > > > > > Joe Della Barba > > > Coquina C&C 35 MK I > > > Kent Island MD USA > > > > > > > > > > > > From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > > Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2023 9:51 PM > > > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > > Cc: Andrew Burton > > mailto:a.burton.sai...@gmail.com> > > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Mac Navigation options? > > > > > > I've become a fan of Aquamap, which has Active Captain and Waterway Guide > > > info integrated with the charts, which themselves are very good. > > > Andy > > > Masquerade (Baltic 47) > > > > > > Andrew Burton > > > 26 Beacon Hill > > > Newport, RI > > > USA 02840 > > > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > > > > > > phone +401 965 5260 > > > > > > > > > On Sat, Oct 21, 2023 at 7:37 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > You might look into downloading Active Captain to your Mac, so long as > > > > the Mac has the ability to determine your position by some sort of > > > > connections to a GPS. > > > > > > > > I run the Active Captain Community app on my old IPad that is with me > > > > during deliveries, and also have it on my Dell laptop. (when on a boat > > > > the laptop gets position info through a link to my android phone) > > > > > > > > I have a Garmin chart plotter on Imzadi and have downloaded the Garmin > > > > G2 charts (which is a personal preference because they use the same > > > > color patterns and symbols as NOAA charts) to both of my other devices. > > > > It all works off-line; I can download new areas of the charts I have to > > > > the IPad if I will be in an area that is not already saved there > > > > because of somewhat limited memory on the IPad. The laptop has access > > > > to the entire North American chart set that came with my last chart > > > > plotter update. > > > > > > > > Garmin also owns Navionics, IIRC, and I seem to recall the choice of > > > > Navionics or Blue Chart charts is an option for the newer Garmin Chart > > > > plotters. You might call them and see if since you have the Navionics > > > > app and charts on your phone you can share it to the Active Captain > > > > Community app on your Mac. > > > > > > > > Rick Brass > > > > Washington, NC > > > > > > > > -Original Message- > > > > From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] > > > > Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2023 7:42 PM > > > > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > > > Cc: Dean McNeill mailto:d...@deanmc.ca> > > > > Subject: Stus-List Mac Navigation options? > > > > > > > > I have an on-deck ChartPlotter at the helm and while I’m a fan of > > > > Navionics on an iPhone… it’s so small! > > > > > > > > I don’t have an iPad or tablet but I do have a great Mac laptop I don’t > > > > use — it would make a great on-board navigation station. What software > > > > and charts are good? Navionics on a laptop runs through the web so > > > > that’s n
Stus-List Re: winter storage, boatstands
Agree,our yards always use plywood pads, but 1/2" plywood seems too thin, too weak and I always find pads with the leg penetrating several wood layers, or through and many pads are reused while the show cracks through several layers. I'd rather supply solid 3/4" pads for my stands and end the worry and avoid any drama. C > On 10/19/2023 12:44 PM EDT wolf...@erie.net wrote: > > > > Placement of jackstand legs on plywood pieces is mandatory at my Club. > > > > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER > Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2023 12:31 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: wolf...@erie.net > Subject: Re: Stus-List Re:winter storage, boatstands > > > > One problem with jackstands is settling. The legs dig a hole in the ground. > > Many boatyards don't check their stands after they block the boat. > > > > When my boat is on the hard, I make it a point to visit the boat regularly > and tighten up the jackscrews, before climbing aboard. I usually find that > one or two need tighening, but it is important to not overdo it. The keel is > supposed to support 90% of the boat weight and the jackstands carry only 10%. >Brownell has a few videos that explain how their jackstands should be > placed and how the chain is tensioned. https://boatstands.com/proper-use/ > https://linkprotect.cudasvc.com/url?a=https%3a%2f%2fboatstands.com%2fproper-use%2f&c=E,1,fRaOFpS31u_-NGuJYMC2SSmgXI3zUxO5oAgkFoVRM6wTHXFYm3zvWLhAjYr6R2-E_X_W8vLpa5xpGtJY20fL0veGM5mzL2bMgJjq_v-9GcYPDQ,,&typo=1&ancr_add=1 > > > > I occasionally check the boats around me to be assured they are safe. If I > find they need adjusting, I ask the yard workers to check them. They usually > thank me, and if the manager is decent, he will have his guys check all the > stands across the yard. > > > > In my area, the boatyards are mostly gravel or loose stone and the legs of > the typical jackstand are placed onto 4" plywood squares cut from 1/2" > plywood. I made a set of pads for my boat's stands from 3/4" plywood and cut > them 6" square to spread the load better. > > > > Boatyards don't allow owners to move stands, so any stand work has to be done > discreetly, and quietly. > > > > C > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 10/19/2023 11:00 AM EDT Matt Wolford via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > FWIW, cradles are usually better than jack stands. My club in Erie > > considered eliminating cradles a number of years ago (to save space), then > > reversed course because cradles are typically more stable than jack stands. > > > > > > > > A related consideration is how the cradle is constructed. I modified my > > cradle by having two pieces of steel beam welded to the cradle on each side > > of the keel. The steel pieces were modified to hold pads which push > > against the sides of the keel to prevent keel movement. I did this because > > – according to yard personnel -- when a sailboat is pushed off a cradle due > > to high winds, the movement usually starts at the base of the keel. > > > > > > > > From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 10:19 AM > > To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > Cc: Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com> > > Subject: Stus-List Re: winter storage > > > > > > > > Re mast up. A friend stored his C&C 33-2 with mast up and it blew over in > > a winter storm. He now has no mast. > > > > > > > > With mast down possibly the reduced windage would have prevented the boat > > from blowing over but certainly would have not resulted in a mast broken in > > three areas. The boat was on a cradle. > > > > > > > > Food for thought > > > > > > > > Mike Hoyt > > > > Persistence > > > > Halifax, NS > > > > > > > > From: Bob Mann via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 10:45 AM > > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > Cc: Bob Mann mailto:sailrm...@comcast.net> > > Subject: Stus-List winter storage > > > > > > > > Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For those > > who store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or > > do you loosen the shrouds for the winter? Bob Mann Mystic > > > > > > > > > > Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For those > > who store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or > > do you loosen the shrouds for the winter? > > > > > > > > Bob Mann > > > > Mystic > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make
Stus-List Re: winter storage, boatstands
One problem with jackstands is settling. The legs dig a hole in the ground. Many boatyards don't check their stands after they block the boat. When my boat is on the hard, I make it a point to visit the boat regularly and tighten up the jackscrews, before climbing aboard. I usually find that one or two need tighening, but it is important to not overdo it. The keel is supposed to support 90% of the boat weight and the jackstands carry only 10%. Brownell has a few videos that explain how their jackstands should be placed and how the chain is tensioned. https://boatstands.com/proper-use/ I occasionally check the boats around me to be assured they are safe. If I find they need adjusting, I ask the yard workers to check them. They usually thank me, and if the manager is decent, he will have his guys check all the stands across the yard. In my area, the boatyards are mostly gravel or loose stone and the legs of the typical jackstand are placed onto 4" plywood squares cut from 1/2" plywood. I made a set of pads for my boat's stands from 3/4" plywood and cut them 6" square to spread the load better. Boatyards don't allow owners to move stands, so any stand work has to be done discreetly, and quietly. C > On 10/19/2023 11:00 AM EDT Matt Wolford via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > FWIW, cradles are usually better than jack stands. My club in Erie > considered eliminating cradles a number of years ago (to save space), then > reversed course because cradles are typically more stable than jack stands. > > > > A related consideration is how the cradle is constructed. I modified my > cradle by having two pieces of steel beam welded to the cradle on each side > of the keel. The steel pieces were modified to hold pads which push against > the sides of the keel to prevent keel movement. I did this because – > according to yard personnel -- when a sailboat is pushed off a cradle due to > high winds, the movement usually starts at the base of the keel. > > > > From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 10:19 AM > To: 'Stus-List' > Cc: Hoyt, Mike > Subject: Stus-List Re: winter storage > > > > Re mast up. A friend stored his C&C 33-2 with mast up and it blew over in a > winter storm. He now has no mast. > > > > With mast down possibly the reduced windage would have prevented the boat > from blowing over but certainly would have not resulted in a mast broken in > three areas. The boat was on a cradle. > > > > Food for thought > > > > Mike Hoyt > > Persistence > > Halifax, NS > > > > From: Bob Mann via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 10:45 AM > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Bob Mann mailto:sailrm...@comcast.net> > Subject: Stus-List winter storage > > > > Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For those who > store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or do > you loosen the shrouds for the winter? Bob Mann Mystic > > > > > Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For those who > store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or do > you loosen the shrouds for the winter? > > > > Bob Mann > > Mystic > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: winter storage
Well said, Jeff. > On 10/18/2023 7:12 PM EDT Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Aluminum coefficient of thermal expansion is about 13e-6 and SS about 6.5e-6. > If the mast from keel to head is 50 ft, and temp change is 100 degrees F mast > contracts about 3/4" and stays, which are shorter but angled, contract about > 5/16". So, effectively, the temperature loosens the stays for you. If that's > a concern for some reason. > Jeff Laman > 81 C&C34 > > Get Outlook for Android https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg > > - > From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 3:52:18 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: Hoyt, Mike ; Robert Abbott > > Subject: Stus-List winter storage > > The key to keeping mast up during winter is the cradlethe boats with > inadequate or damaged cradles are at risk. I have seen several boats at my > club where the boats have toppled and it was the cradle that failed in every > instance. > > And for loosening the rigging in winterno need if the rig is properly > tuned at storagebesides, as someone here mentioned, the aluminum mast > shrinks first in extreme cold. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C&C 32- #277 > halifax, N.S. > > On 2023-10-18 11:19 a.m., Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: > > > > > Re mast up. A friend stored his C&C 33-2 with mast up and it blew over in > > a winter storm. He now has no mast. > > > > > > > > With mast down possibly the reduced windage would have prevented the boat > > from blowing over but certainly would have not resulted in a mast broken in > > three areas. The boat was on a cradle. > > > > > > > > Food for thought > > > > > > > > Mike Hoyt > > > > Persistence > > > > Halifax, NS > > > > > > > > From: Bob Mann via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 10:45 AM > > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > Cc: Bob Mann mailto:sailrm...@comcast.net > > Subject: Stus-List winter storage > > > > > > > > Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For those > > who store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or > > do you loosen the shrouds for the winter? Bob Mann Mystic > > > > > > > > > > Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For those > > who store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or > > do you loosen the shrouds for the winter? > > > > > > > > Bob Mann > > > > Mystic > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Sizing an inverter
Hey Josh, Good ideas as always. I'd really prefer to run AC off the batteries while on the hook. It doesn't run continuous all night, but cycles and most nights, I turn off the AC for the night after it's cooled down the cabin. Usually around 11pm. I would invest in Lithium to a point. Two lithium 200ah batteries weigh almost the same weight as two 100 Ah AGMs. tMy goal is to determine the best way to build a reliable system, identify all the components needed, price those and consider all the wiring issues. if it's too expensive, it will justify staying at a marina on hot nights, and plugging in. Chuck Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Sizing an inverter
Very helpful. What is the proper math to determine battery bank size needed to run our AC unit for twelve hours? I know a softstart would make it possible, and the rated amp draw is 12.5 amps at 120vac. I'm considering getting a lithium 200 ah and keeping a 100 ah AGM as a start battery.Solar panels are being considered also. Thanks, Chuck > On 10/18/2023 12:50 PM EDT Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > If it helps, think of the inverter as a special kind of extension cord. It > passes power from Point A to Point B. It does not create or store power. It > needs to be bigger than the expected load put on it. > > The batteries need to be up to the task, but they do not create any power, > they store it. If you want to use a lot of power, you have to generate a lot > of power somehow. > > A huge battery bank, say big enough to run an air conditioner overnight, on a > C&C with a stock charging system would work one night and then you would need > to motor about 8-10 hours if you wanted to do it again. > > Joe > > Coquina > > > > From: Dreuge via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 12:06 PM > To: Richard Bush > Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Dreuge > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Sizing an inverter > > > > Richard, > > > > My point is that one should not size an inverter relative a battery, but size > it to ones expected needs.Folks often mix up or misuse terminology.If > the maximum power consumed from an electric coffee pot is 1000 Watts. Then > one would need at least a 1kW inverter, but should get something larger to > avoid maxing the operating limits. Now the question is what battery can > provide a constant 1000W for the 5 minutes to brew coffee. Of course battery > needs are greater than brewing coffee and an energy audit would give a better > estimate, but for the sake of simplicity, let’s only consider coffee needs. > > > > For a 12V battery system (12.5V lead acid), the 1000W of power (P = voltage* > current) is provided by a battery current of 1000W/12.5V = 80A. So one > would need a battery that can provide 80A of current for 5 minutes. A single > 100A*hr lead acid type battery would be a poor choice as it would end up > nearly depleted. Relative to a 100 A*hr LiFePO4 battery, the LiFePO4 > battery would brew about 10 times more coffee! > > > > > > > > > > - > Paul E. > > 1981 C&C Landfall 38 > S/V Johanna Rose > Fort Walton Beach, FL > > > > http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ > > > > > > > On Oct 18, 2023, at 8:55 AM, Richard Bush > mailto:bushma...@aol.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > Paul, If I understand your point, it is that we shouldn't be relying on > > battery power for any appliances or coffee pots...etc.; is there any > > alternative that doesn't involve solar? thanks! > > > > > > > > Richard > > > > 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584: > > > > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > > > > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > > > > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > > > > (502) 584-7255 > > > > > > > > > > > > On Wednesday, October 18, 2023 at 07:12:19 AM EDT, Dreuge via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Chuck, > > > > > > > > First off, 12V * 100 A*hr = 1200 W*hr. But keep in mind that A*hr battery > > ratings for a 100 A*hr battery is tested typical at 5 amps(or 0.05C). That > > is your 100 A*hr is 5A * 20hr. At this rate the battery is only providing > > 12.5V * 5A = 63 Watts.At higher current loads, your effective battery > > capacity will be much much less due to Peuket Effect losses. In fact, a > > 100 A*hr rated lead-acid battery at 100 amp load would only provide about > > 20 A*hr of energy(and lots of heat). To add to the insult, lead acid based > > batteries like AGM should not be depleted below 50% capacity to limit > > damage, so reserving 1 battery for start leaves only 50 A*hr for your house > > bank at loads of about 5 amps.At a 20A load, the 100 A*hr (50 A*hr > > effective) only provides 60 A*hr (30 A*hr effective). That’s about 30 A*hr > > / 20A = 1.5 hrs of use. > > > > > > > > A 1000 W inverter could draw a max of 1000W / 12.5V = 80 Amps (but likely > > higher due to a voltage drop). This would drain your battery in 6 - 10 > > minutes. > > > > > > > > I gave a talk to some local Hams about Solar Off-Grid Systems. I posted > > the slides on my blog (see link below).On slides 5 & 6, I discuss > > battery discharge capacity and bank sizes. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/10/solar-off-grid-system.html > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Johanna Rose, I have a 2000W inverter charger. When I run my > > microwave, it draws about 100A from a 560 A*hr LiFePO4 battery. Like > > Dennis, I have my inverter connected to my panel powering all AC loads > > except for my A/C unit and water hea
Stus-List Re: Cruising Gulf Coast
That's inspiring. I am considering racing to Baltimore this Saturday, but the weather looks shitty; winds on the nose, 14 to 25 knots, and rainy, temps 57 to 65 for a four to five hour long race. I'll probably work inside the cabin on projects and daysail if the sun comes out. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Magothy River, near Annapolis > On 10/18/2023 11:16 AM EDT Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Getting underway in the morning for 11 days of cruising to Pensacola and > back. Weather looks good. Initial itinerary is: > > Gulfport, MS > Pelican Cove on south side of Dauphin Island, AL > Big Lagoon near Pensacola, FL > Navarre Beach, FL > Pensacola area for 2-4 days > Head home > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: winter storage
Good question. Should you loosen the rig for winter storage? I've been advised to leave the rig tension alone unless you cranked it up to banjo tight and can play tunes on it. If you tensioned the rig for racing, you might want to remove any excessive tension, a turn, but unless it's bar tight, live it alone. The reason given is that the aluminum mast will shrink more than the stainless rod during the colder temperatures. Chuck S > On 10/18/2023 9:49 AM EDT Korbey Hunt via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I keep my boat in Ketchikan Alaska all winter with a dehumidifier running. I > remive the foresail and store in the cabin, cover main. I have not adjusted > rigging. I'm interested in seeing replys to this topic. > > Get Outlook for Android https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg > > - > From: Bob Mann via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 6:45:04 AM > To: Stus-List > Cc: Bob Mann > Subject: Stus-List winter storage > > Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For those who > store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or do > you loosen the shrouds for the winter? > > Bob Mann > Mystic > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Wet Vac
I think I've stated before that my all-time favorite tool out of all my battery tools and corded tools is a small corded wet/vac. It has a small, all plastic tank and large and strong motor. I took off the castors and glued a piece of carpet to the bottom, so it dosn't scratch the varnished sole, or the paint on deck. I think it has a five gallon tank and a 5hp motor and an 18 ft long 1 1/2" hose, so it can really reach everywhere in the boat. I keep it in a dock box and use it all the time and lend it out to others. I'd love to have it mounted aboard, but my boat is just too small. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, AnnapolisPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: best coffee making setup on a boat
For me, coffee is a personal taste you get used to. The french press flavor, is great, but too much to clean up for me. (I'll have to check the newer model press suggested by Josh.) I keep a $12) 12 cup electric Mr Coffee on the boat for when we have shorepower. Bought during my refit while on the hard, I've had it for four years now. For off grid, we boil water on the propane stove and use instant coffee. There are some pretty good instant coffee's available now, but you have to try a few to find one you like. We prefer the packets from Nescafe. There are several blends. It's great to boil water in the kettle and then have choices of coffee, tea, or hot chocolate. I'm considering a stainless coffee perculator I can sit on the stovetop and brew 8 or 9 cups. That would make four mugs of coffee and could be reheated in the same container. I'd also like to have is a good carafe to keep it hot longer while underway. Chuck SPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List best coffee making setup on a boat
I appreciate all the responses but it might be better to capture your great coffee making ideas under a proper subject title so future coffee nerds can find them. Chuck S > On 10/17/2023 4:34 PM EDT Rick Brass via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > Another caffeine addict/coffee snob here who uses a french press on the boat. > (I dropped and broke the one from home during a boat delivery this spring.) I > also have a high quality hand grinder from Japan on the boat, so no > electricity required. (I do have a Krupps grinder plugged in here at home.) I > got the impression when shopping for the coffee grinder that the Japanese > seem to be a nation of coffee snobs. > > > > Rick Brass > > Imzadi > > C&C 38 mk2 > > Washington, NC > > -Original Message- > From: Stus-List > Sent: Oct 17, 2023 9:54 AM > To: Stus-List > Cc: j...@dellabarba.com , Korbey Hunt > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Jackery solar system > > > > I am also a coffee snob from Seattle. 500 watts of electricity is needed for > coffee grinder. > > Get Outlook for Android https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg > > - > From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2023 6:48:16 AM > To: 'Stus-List' > Cc: j...@dellabarba.com > Subject: Stus-List Re: Jackery solar system > > > Its French Press for us, no electricity needed. > > Joe > > Coquina > > > > From: David Knecht via CnC-List > Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2023 9:18 AM > To: CnC CnC discussion list > Cc: David Knecht > Subject: Stus-List Re: Jackery solar system > > > > And then of course there are the French Press or Pour Over devices that use > hot water from the stove, no electric power, and make a much superior cup of > coffee (yes, I am a coffee snob). Dave > > > > S/V Aries > > 1990 C&C 34+ > > New London, CT > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Sizing an inverter
OK, an DC/AC Pure Sine Wave inverter looks attractive I've heard some boats have 1000 watt, some 2000watt and some 3000 or more. What size inverter is right for a boat equipped with two 100Ah AGM batteries? One battery provides 12v x 100ah: 1200watts. My system can provide 2400 watts but I usually reserve one battery to restart the engine and run on the other battery. Does the inverter get fed from a bus common to both batteries, or to the selector switch marked, "Off, 1, both, 2"? Thanks, Chuck S Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Jackery solar system
Thanks Neil and Joe. Much to consider. I like the invertor with auto switch built in. You are right Joe. I setup my boat as a man-cave at the dock, and racer away from the dock. I installed a 120V system with breaker panel and all circuits on Shorepower only. I figured I didn't want to add enough batteries to power the AC, so kept it shorepower only. The loads are 16000 Btu AC, Battery charger, and two receptacle circuits with TV, refrigerator, laptops, and boom box and cell charging stations. During the hot Chesapeake summer, It is very comfortable at the dock or in a marina slip. I usually drive down, start the AC, go out for dinner and the cabin is cooled down enough to get a good night's sleep. I have two) ten year old 100Ah AGMS. They will need to be replaced soon. I think September and October are the best sailing months as the days aren't so hot and the nights aren't too cool. We recently anchored out a few nights, enjoying the cooler weather and I worried about battery management and restarting the engine the next day. I do have a jump start on board as a backup, but haven't tried it. I'd like to add solar as another power source and the Jackery is plug and play and includes a 2000 Ah battery, and two briefcase style solar panels and is portable so can be used at home also. Thanks for the inverter suggestion. I'll have to look at the ventilation requirements. Thanks, Chuck > On 10/17/2023 1:38 PM EDT Neil Andersen via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I bought a 2000 watt pure sine wave: > > https://www.westmarine.com/promariner-truepower-plus-series-inverter-2000ps-19125384.html > > Neil Andersen, W3NEA > Rock Hall, MD 21661 > 484-354-8800 > > - > From: Neil Andersen > Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2023 1:35:27 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: j...@dellabarba.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Re: Jackery solar system > > > If you are looking at inverters, keep in mind that wattage isn’t all there is > to an inverter. Consider what you are plugging in. Coffee makers and > toasters are not particular about the quality of the output. Computers and > other devices are. The need a true sine wave, versus a modified sine wave. > An Inverter with true sine wave are more expensive, but will save your other > electronics in the long term. > > Neil Andersen, W3NEA > Former C&C 32 owner > Rock Hall, MD 21661 > 484-354-8800 > > - > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Jackery solar system
Exploring Korbey's suggestion: a Blue Sea 3 way 120v 30amp switch = $160. A 2000 watt inverter costs $200, two 200watt solar panels cost $400 Mounting panels cost Wiring to go between these cost $100 Battleborn Lithium battery cost $925 Total cost $1785 > On 10/16/2023 5:00 PM EDT Korbey Hunt via CnC-List > wrote: > > > No experience, but easy to replace your 3 way AC switch with a 4 way Blue > Sea, 4th position for inverter. Add solar system and 200camp lithium battery. > > Get Outlook for Android https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg > > - > From: Kevin Wright via CnC-List > Sent: Monday, October 16, 2023 1:12:23 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: Kevin Wright > Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Jackery solar system > > Hi Jo, > I would agree if it's just for TV. We run everything. Laptops, Keurig, > fridge, ice maker, TV, fire stick, starlink ect. from our box. > 100% worth the money for us. > Kevin > > On Mon, Oct 16, 2023 at 3:11 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > I have a 300 watt and 1200 inverter hard-wired to the boat systems as well > > as solar. > > > > I keep thinking there must be a better way to watch TV then spend $1800. If > > it were me, I would probably spend the money on improving the boat systems > > overall vs. a dedicated TV battery. > > > > Joe > > > > Coquina > > > > > > > > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > Sent: Monday, October 16, 2023 1:45 PM > > To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> > > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Jackery solar system > > > > > > > > Looking for a way to power my TV and DVD and 120v sockets while at anchor. > > > > I'm looking at getting a Jackery solar system for my boat. > > > > I like the "2000 plus" cause it has a 30amp socket that accepts my > > shorepower cord and comes with two 200Watt folding solar panels. $1800 but > > cheaper and less labor than installing a Lithium battery system with solar > > panels. > > > > > > > > Anybody have experience with these devices? > > > > > > > > Chuck Resolute 1989 C&C34R, Annapolis > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Jackery solar system
I appreciate the feedback. We still enjoy TV at the dock and it's built in DVD player allows us to borrow movies from the library or rewatch old favorites like Hornblower, Wackiest Ship in the Army, Houseboat, Two For the Road, Wind, etc. The attraction of the Jackery is portability and it plugs right into my shore power inlet so all the 120v outlets can be powered. It's easily removed from the boat and could backup my house during hurricane season, or taken camping. If you price out a 2000 watt invertor and batteries for it and 400 watt solar panels and a battery monitoring system, I would think it would get more expensive and more labor intensive, wiring all that together. I would prefer a stand alone system that can be used when needed, and not something permanently mounted. $1700 may seem like a lot of money, but the system would allow me to run a microwave or a hair dryer and provides another way to charge batteries when on the hook. It would be removed from the boat for racing, removing all that weight. I haven't bought one yet. I'm still considering options. Chuck S > On 10/16/2023 4:04 PM EDT Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > We watch TV on the laptop, or if I somehow forget to bring it then the iPad > from the chart table. I cannot recall using a physical DVD in years, but my > laptop can play them if needed. > > As far an actual TV goes, there are two issues: > > 1. Powering it. Inverters are not all that expensive. > 2. Storing power – I would add batteries for the whole boat instead of just > for a TV. > > > > > > > > Joe Della Barba > > Coquina C&C 35 MK I > > Kent Island MD USA > > > > > > > > From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List > Sent: Monday, October 16, 2023 3:41 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: Marek Dziedzic > Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Jackery solar system > > > > There are, out there, 12 V TVs. They might be more expensive than the normal > (120 V) ones, but not $1000 more expensive. Also, do you need a TV or just a > screen (monitor)? They are even easier to get in 12 V version. > > > > Marek > > > > From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Sent: Monday, October 16, 2023 9:07 PM > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> > Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Jackery solar system > > > > I have a 300 watt and 1200 inverter hard-wired to the boat systems as well as > solar. > > I keep thinking there must be a better way to watch TV then spend $1800. If > it were me, I would probably spend the money on improving the boat systems > overall vs. a dedicated TV battery. > > Joe > > Coquina > > > > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Sent: Monday, October 16, 2023 1:45 PM > To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Jackery solar system > > > > Looking for a way to power my TV and DVD and 120v sockets while at anchor. > > I'm looking at getting a Jackery solar system for my boat. > > I like the "2000 plus" cause it has a 30amp socket that accepts my shorepower > cord and comes with two 200Watt folding solar panels. $1800 but cheaper and > less labor than installing a Lithium battery system with solar panels. > > > > Anybody have experience with these devices? > > > > Chuck Resolute 1989 C&C34R, Annapolis > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Jackery solar system
Looking for a way to power my TV and DVD and 120v sockets while at anchor. I'm looking at getting a Jackery solar system for my boat. I like the "2000 plus" cause it has a 30amp socket that accepts my shorepower cord and comes with two 200Watt folding solar panels. $1800 but cheaper and less labor than installing a Lithium battery system with solar panels. Anybody have experience with these devices? Chuck Resolute 1989 C&C34R, AnnapolisPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Sail Paint
Hey Bill, That paint test is amazing. Please try it amd report back. Thanks, Chuck S > On 09/22/2023 4:40 PM EDT Bill Coleman via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Awhile ago there was discussion about solar leech protection, and sail > graphics and the inflatable boat paint came up. > I just sawr this demonstration on Hamilton Marine website for their lobster > buoy paint, and the video on it pretty much sold me. Now I want to remove the > sticky stuff on my leech and try some of this! > https://hamiltonmarine.com/hmbuoypaint/ > > > Bill Coleman > Erie PA > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: late release / footblock
Yeah Don,it Had a similar incident when a crewmember stood on the genoa sheet while being released (footblock) and the lower spreader punched through my beautiful 150. We almost hove-to, before tackin back to clear it, sorting it all out. Got second in that race and spent $$$ to patch the sail. My 34R cockpit has a lot of spaghetti in the cockpit, so I ordered RED sheets for racing afterward. The red sheets worked better and I later added Edson leather spreader boots which are overkill for racing. Possibly more windage than protection added. Have to forgive that crewmember as he's a dear friend and a great guy who is always helping people in the community and just didn't feel the line under his feet. I think the red line helps, but now I'm racing solo or daysailing or cruising. He's still a good friend and I hope to do a doublehanded race together some day, but maybe put him on the helm. Chuck S > On 09/12/2023 6:15 PM EDT Donald Kern via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Caution on a late release of a genoa. The boat has a 155% North 3Di, which > has been raced 13 times. The last race, on the last tack, leeward crew did a > late release, resulting in the spreader punching a hole just above the > spreader patch. Yes, North is going to add a little more height to the > spreader patch. > > Don Kern > Fireball, C&C 35 Mk2 > Bristol, RI > > > On 9/12/2023 5:46 PM, Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote: > > > On my C&C35 mark I, I replaced the primary winches with Lewmar 42's. I > > used to sail/race with a 170 but now our class has limited the largest sail > > to 155. 62 yo and still occasionally single-hand in races. > > > > Letting the jib/genoa backwind so the wind is pushing the bow into the turn > > before releasing the sheet helps, as well as then slowing the turn so the > > jib can be brought in quickly while not under as much pressure. Not much > > boat speed should be lost doing this. > > > > Bob Mann > > Mystic > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Servicing winches is very worthwhile. Can't believe you race and don't service your winches at least annually. A skipper must take steps to ensure the boat is properly prepared for the crew. You will learn on the first one, and kick yourself after, because of how easy it is to do. Take your time. Clean the old grease using diesle fuel or mineral spirits, lightly oil the pawls, and lightly grease the gears with a brush. If done every two years they will last forever. Skipping for 12 years? I don't know. Chuck S > On 09/12/2023 7:20 PM EDT Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Mike and others who have provided valuable input, > > This information on electric is very useful. I wasn't intending to purchase > electric in any case due to cost. > > I went to boat this afternoon. Ashamed to say I did not even know what size > the existing winches are. They are Lewmar/England 42ST, likely original to > boat, therefore 42 years old. From what I am hearing from everyone, a Lewmar > 42ST should be adequate for a C&C34. But man, even in 12 knts wind it takes > the full strength of two crew to get the last 2 feet in. I was sensing that > the winch handle was about to break. > > After reading more this afternoon, I am sure the winches are way past due for > servicing. Lewmar recommends 2 to 3 times a season! This may be part, if > not all, of the problem. I suspect the winches were disassembled and greased > about 10 to 12 years ago. Before that, who knows. > > Is a set of 42 year old winches worth disassembling, cleaning, greasing, and > reassembling? Will this result in a significant improvement? What parts of > the winch typically need to be replaced and can those Lewmar parts be > obtained for such an old winch? > > Thanks again for all the very helpful advice on winch sizes. > > Jeff Laman > 1981 C&C34 Harmony > Ludington, MI > > > > - > From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List > Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2023 2:43 PM > To: 'Stus-List' > Cc: Hoyt, Mike > Subject: Stus-List Electric Winches - Winch Size for C&C34 > > Persistence came to us with Electric Lewmar 43ST winches for the primaries. > There were no secondaries. For cruising ease the primaries had been located > where secondaries normally would be and the mounting locations for the > original primaries were faired and painted over. The second set of manual > Lewmar 43ST winches were mounted on the cabin top for use as halyard winches. > THIS WAS WAY OVERKILL! > > ST43 as halyard winches way larger than necessary. Jib trimmers facing > backward to trim genoa was awkward to say the least. So we moved the cabin > top Lewmar 43ST back to the original primary location and replaced cabin top > halyard winches with Lewmar 30ST (Ocean series I believe) > > This still left us with electric Lewmar 43 ST. First of all an electric > winch can be nasty. An inexperienced trimmer can damage the headsail using > one. We always had the switches turned off and used as a manual winch. > Secondly these were AWFUL to maintain. To service the winches the motor has > to be dropped from beneath before the drums can come off to clean and > lubricate the gears, pawls, etc … Due to this and due to the lack of > accessibility from beneath to do this these winches were rarely serviced and > never properly. When running the spinnaker on these secondaries they were > stiff and made spin handling more problematic than it should be (due to the > lack of east servicing). > > In the end we traded these to someone with a pilothouse 44 foot boat for a > set of new Lewmar 40 ST that are far superior for our purposes. On top of > the ease of servicing and better sizing for the boat removing the motors took > away a LOT of unnecessary weight > > Just a story I thought I would share > > We are very happy with all of our Lewmar winches BTW > > Mike Hoyt > Persistence > Halifax, NS > > From: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List > Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2023 3:23 PM > To: 'Stus-List' > Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net > Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C&C34 > > Some other thoughts: For whatever you decide, believe both WM and Defender > have BOGO days on winches during the year which could help reduce the wallet > pain. Electric winches are more than a little $ more. Have heard / read good > things about > > Some other thoughts: > > For whatever you decide, believe both WM and Defender have BOGO days on > winches during the year which could help reduce the wallet pain. > > Electric winches are more than a little $ more. Have heard / read good > things about the “eWincher” as a viable alternative for people who do not > want to make the investment in electric winches. > > Brian > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.p
Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C&C34/now speed of tack turn
Tacking advice: Always remove any slack from the lazy sheet after each tack. When you turn the boat, the release is more important than the sheeting in. Start your tack, turning the boat ready to release, then wait till about a third of the genoa is backwinded, release that side and slow your turn so the sail is blown across the deck but the crew has little more time to sheet the genoa home. If you are solo and using Autotack, it's still possible, it's all timing and practice. Chuck S > On 09/12/2023 2:28 PM EDT David Knecht via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I am glad the subject of tacking a large genoa came up. I have a great deal > of trouble with my 145 genoa trying to get it so it does not require > extensive winching. What tends to happen is that the clew of the genoa folds > back on itself at the mast as you come head to wind and then gets trapped > against the new leeward shrouds with the clew on the inside of the fold > (between the rest of the sail and the shrouds). There is no way to pull it > by hand to unfold it and we have to wait until the wind unfolds it once there > is pressure and by then, the sheet is out too far, so I have to head up to > take some pressure off to bring it in. SLO!! Turning slower seems to > exacerbate the problem, and the only thing that has helped is to wait until > the sail is fully backwinded before releasing, as it comes across faster that > way and is less likely to be trapped. Anyone have a hint as to what (if > anything) we are doing wrong? Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > > > > On Sep 12, 2023, at 12:59 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > I second Charlie's points about the timing; it took my a while to learn to > > turn the wheel more slowly to allow the trimmers to get the line in! > > > > 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584; > > Richard > > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > > (502) 584-7255 > > > > > > On Tuesday, September 12, 2023 at 11:39:43 AM EDT, cenelson--- via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > I still have the original headsail winches on my 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb--Lewmar > > 50s self-tailing 2 speed IIRC--although I moved them forward for my local > > racing needs. I also added a set of Lewmar 44s to make kite handling more > > reasonable. If this combination of 'power' is not enough, I need to get > > drop my sails and get into port somewhere!! > > > > However, even these winches for the genoa can seem to be underpowered if > > the helm is not in tune with the headsail as it crosses the boat. I find it > > especially important to not turn the boat too fast during the tack. The > > helm needs to turn the wheel slowly, especially within say +/- 10-15 > > degrees of head to wind, before the genoa begins to fill on the new tack. > > > > This will allow most of the new active sheet to be brought in hand over > > hand with very little pressure on it so that when it fills, there is only a > > few feet to winch in with a handle. > > > > I have found that with a 155% headsail, a 'quick' tack is usually a bad one > > since the grinders have to seriously grind in too much line with the genoa > > filled. This is a good example of using better 'timing' during the tack to > > reduce the serious winching required otherwise. If you are racing, climbing > > back to close-hauled from a tack that was too fast with the genoa too far > > out loses a lot of ground to windward to your competitors on every 'fast' > > tack. > > > > BTW, if you add/replace any winches be mindful of where you mount them. My > > cockpit was originally set up more for cruising so the headsail winches > > were aft in the cockpit. As I did more club racing, in order to have room > > in the cockpit for flying a masthead symmetrical kite, I had to move them > > forward and add a set (44s) to handle the kite. I think the original > > thought was to fly the kite from winches on the cockpit bulkhead either > > side of the companionway which were Lewmar 30s. This turned out to be > > totally underpowered for my kite AND it concentrated too many bodies > > together at the companionway in each other's way most of the time. Further, > > even when I moved the 30s to the cockpit coaming aft of the headsail > > winches, I found the 30s to be underpowered for my kite--thus I replaced > > them with the 44s. > > > > Until I added the 44s, we tried to use the headsail winches for the kite > > which had plenty of power--however, moving the kite and genoa sheets during > > racing was much too confusing and time consuming. > > > > FWIW > > > > Charlie Nelson > > Water Phantom > > 1995 C&C 36XL/kcb > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contributi
Stus-List Re: No Traffic
I like to think everyone else is out sailing or cruising beyond internet. Instead, I've been going to the beach, or to the lake, cause my engine coolant pump hasn't come in, to fix my engine. Maybe tomorrow. Chuck S > On 09/07/2023 1:05 PM EDT Jeff Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Ok. Seems like everyone is out sailing. I'll stop worrying. > > Cheers, > Jeff Nelson > Muir Caileag > C&C 30 - 549 > Armdale Y.C. > > On 2023-09-07 14:03, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote: > > > I received one on 8/30, but nothing since until your email. > > Ron > > Wild Cheri > > C&C 30-1 > > STL > > > > > > On Thursday, September 7, 2023, 11:31:15 AM CDT, Jeff Nelson via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: > > > > > > I've not seen an email on this list since Aug 29th. Nothing in my spam > > foldersI'm guessing some new > > GMail setting perhaps...anyone have any suggestions? > > > > Cheers, > > Jeff Nelson > > Muir Caileag > > C&C 30 - 549 > > Armdale Y.C. > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Diesel idle speed
Anybody out there with a Universal M4-30 diesel, Can you state your idle speed in RPM? Thanks, ChuckPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Hurth Transmission follow-up
Just wanted to share that I finally finished the transmission install after it was professionally rebuilt. My engine is a Universal M4-30 and the transmission is a Hurth 50. FWIW, I paid a shop in South Amboy, NJ, $1700, to rebuild the transmission and reinstalled the unit myself after painting the engine and upgrading several components like new motor mounts and hoses. I spent $2500 including buying some new battery powered tools, but it worked out well and she looks like a new engine in the boat. I started writing up a "Lessons Learned" article to capture what I learned fi anyone is interested, let me know. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C34R, AnnapolisPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: 37+ Steering Cable
I replaced the idler on my 34R using the Edson aluminum product and learned the hard way what was needed. I wrote up my journey for my 34/36 group and can share it with anyone interested. If your idler pulley sheaves are in good condition, I would recommend you send the old idler plate to Garhauer and have them fabricate a new plate in stainless steel with new stainless towers and reuse your sheaves. It will probably cost half what Edson charges and not require any alterations to the deck or binnicle. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 34R, Annapolis > On 08/02/2023 11:21 AM EDT Chris Riedinger via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Jenna found our steering cable only attached by one bunch of the (?11)-strand > cable a few years ago while I was seining in AK. > > She and friends reswaged a new piece of cable to our old chain and I have > kept an eye on it since, periodically lubing. > > I find the grease port in the rudder post is not enough when driving hard > downwind for many miles, we often get a squeak that starts near/just under > the quadrant > > Shift and throttle cables are a must-do, in my opinion, if they haven't been > done on a boat of our vintage. > > > > > > > > On Wed, Aug 2, 2023, 5:31 AM Rob Hamlin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Thanks Josh glad I’m waiting till off season, recall any part number from > > Edson..sounds like some fabrication in order as well. > > > > -Rob > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > On Aug 2, 2023, at 3:04 AM, Josh Muckley > > mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > You're in for a treat! This might help. > > > > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/115qLR3c13N2THCRpsOF-7UGGJBweFXfd/view?usp=drivesdk > > > > > > Edson made the plate to which the turning sheeves are attached out of > > > carbon steel. They never expected the OEMs to install them in a wet or > > > exposed location. The sheeves are attached with 3/4 inch diameter > > > sleeves that have been hydraulically pressed to full over top and bottom > > > rim. This makes a type of "pass through rivet". The hole in the center > > > of the "rivet" is where the cable passes. The rivet clamps the bronze > > > sheeve body to the plate. The body uses the rivet as a pivot and has > > > bolts to hold it in position as needed to fairlead the cable back to the > > > quadrant. The sheeve are bronze as well and they pivot on a stainless > > > pin. Edson reengineered this plate and used both aluminum and bronze. > > > Sounds like and upgrade right? Well it would be if it would fit our > > > boats but it won't. Besides the thickness of the new plate being the > > > main problem the sheeve can not articulate close enough together to allow > > > the cables to lead properly. So it would be nice if edson just stuck > > > with a carbon steel version as well but they didn't. When I replaced > > > mine I learned all of the aforementioned details over multiple weeks and > > > phone calls and shipping returns. Ultimately the associate I was working > > > with was able to paw around in the warehouse and found what he thought > > > might very well be the last carbon steel plate in existence. They > > > re-rivetted my sheeves to the new plate. It was the only option. If > > > you're in fresh water I've heard the damage is considerably less but if > > > you're in salt water you may find yourself with a bigger than expected > > > project. > > > > > > > > > > > > The cable replacement is actually pretty straight forward as long as you > > > figure out a way to attach the new cable to the old and the the old to > > > lead the new through the sheeves and pedestal. If anything comes undone > > > you may have to unmount the pedestal. The cable can be bought from edson > > > or manufactured by reusing the chain and reswaging new cable. Its more > > > expensive to use but only $30 or $40 bucks more. Using theirs ensures > > > that you get new chain. You'd also be able to leave the olds cable in > > > place and use it to lead the new as described above. New from edson is > > > my vote. They come in different lengths and our boats use one of if not > > > the longest available. You can narrow it down to the available options > > > by measuring from the pedestal hub to the deck and add the distance from > > > the pedestal base to the quadrant. Then add half the circumstance too. > > > As I recall the cable wraps halfway around but maybe its a full 360°. > > > Double check when your measuring and adjust the math as needed. > > > > > > If you are taking time to rebuilt the pedestal reach back out and let me > > > know. There are some tricks. I had mine completely sand blasted and > > > repainted. All the internals were completely rebuilt. > > > > > > Josh Muckley > > > S/V Sea Hawk > > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > > Solomons, MD > > > > > > > > > > > > Aug 1, 2023 15:55:33 Rob Hamlin via CnC
Stus-List Re: Fastnet tracker
Dennis, thanks for the tracker. The videos of the starts were amazing to watch on Youtube. Seeing the boats from Herse Castle as they pounded into the big swell. So many different boats with 2nd and 3rd reefs and storm jib, racing. Chuck S > On 07/22/2023 9:00 PM EDT John Irvin via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Fascinating! Also scary! > > Get Outlook for iOS https://aka.ms/o0ukef > > - > From: Dennis C. via CnC-List > Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2023 8:58:59 PM > To: CnClist > Cc: Dennis C. > Subject: Stus-List Fastnet tracker > > Anybody watching the Fastnet Race? Here's the tracker: > > https://cf.yb.tl/fastnet2023 > > Blowing low-mid 20's on the nose for next few hours. > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Insurance
You guys are smarter than me, but I got a Progressive policy 15 years ago and the premium has dropped every year, I don't have a claim. No surveys is my reason. $40,000 value and $500 liabilty and the premium is now under $600. Not sure if they will ever react to a decent claim. No idea. BTW, I believe my boat is worth $55K based on the market but might sell for $35K. Go figure. Chuck S > On 07/21/2023 6:00 PM EDT Neil Andersen via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Amen! > > Neil Andersen, W3NEA > Rock Hall, MD 21661 > 484-354-8800 > > - > From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List > Sent: Friday, July 21, 2023 4:15:59 PM > To: 'Stus-List' > Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net ; wolf...@erie.net > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance > > > I don’t understand why Boat US first endorsed GEICO, then essentially > partnered with them (or are owned by them) given how GEICO treats Boat US > members with older boats. > > > > From: John McCrea via CnC-List > Sent: Friday, July 21, 2023 3:59 PM > To: 'Stus-List' > Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net > Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance > > > > Thanks Bill. I had Gieco up until May. They fired all US agents and will only > go direct and when I tried they denied. They do not want boats older than 20 > years now. > > > > My agent, Gowrie in CT is one of the best and they found me a new similar > policy at progressive. For the same $$ as well. > > > > From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Sent: Friday, July 21, 2023 3:49 PM > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com> > Subject: Stus-List Insurance > > > > Just got this in a newsletter from the local broker, it does a little more > Plain 'Splainin on the subject of boat insurance. > > > > << At the YBAAU, we had an excellent presentation by Bob Peck of Triton > Marine Insurance. If you currently own a boat, you almost certainly noticed a > sizable increase in your premium this year. That said, marine insurance is > not as expensive as most people expect it to be, but the rub is obtaining > coverage in the first place. The whole insurance industry took an > $118,000,000,000 loss due to Hurricane Ian, and this catastrophic loss had a > wide ranging impact across the industry. Four large companies failed, and > there are fewer markets for your agent to place your coverage with. > > Four main areas the underwriters look for when a customer is looking for > insurance are location of use, age of vessel, owner experience, and the > “10-foot rule.” > > * Florida has become a very difficult place to obtain coverage, and so has > the Caribbean. If you can get coverage at all you need a storm plan, along > with other stipulations. > * The age of the vessel is also a key criterion, the older the boat the more > difficult it is to obtain insurance. > * Owner experience was always an issue, but until recently it was rarely an > obstacle to coverage; it was more a pricing factor. Now brokers need to work > with their agents to develop a plan to cover new owners who have little to no > prior boating experience. A package containing training is usually required. > * Finally the “10-foot rule” means the companies normally do not want an > owner to move to a larger boat that is more than 10 feet larger that the one > they currently own. A customer who currently has a 17-foot center console > runabout is unlikely to get coverage for a 40-foot boat for example. Often > they are requiring that a captain be aboard for a specified period of time > while the owners gain the requisite skill and experience. > * Other problem insurance risks are liveaboards and houseboats. The larger > and more expensive the boat, the more these rules come into play. > * Here at RCR we have been fortunate, through long-established relationships > with marine insurance specialists, to get our customers covered but it has > not always been quick and easy. Our suggestion is that if you presently have > coverage, don’t think of moving to another carrier to save a few bucks, be > satisfied that you have a policy. > > << > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Chuck's Exhaust Elbow
Hi David, In my case, The exhaust was working fine, no leaks. But I had to remove it to get the bell housing off to access the transmission bolts to remove the transmission which was slipping. The transmission is being rebuilt by a pro. The exhaust riser had some questionable looking fittings that were original and I wanted to replace what I could while waiting for the transmission. The water injector elbow was a street elbow and missing some meat where the hose gets clamped on. It should be a barb fitting and it must have been installed before the flange was screwed on, so the flange needed to be removed to remove the injector elbow. I put it in a vice and soaked it in PB Blaster for a week, spraying the joints every day, and then tried a pipe wrench on the flange. It turned easily but the 1 1/4" nipple sheared right off leaving some portion of threads inside the flange neck. We had to cut the part of the nipple in the riser using a sawzall and chisel it in on itself making a spiral we turned using a couple large pliers. We were going to do the same for the barb fitting but instead tried to heat the casting and use a pipe wrench to turn it. Since we had three guys, one held the torch while I had the pipe wrench, and the third guy tapped the casting with a ballpeen hammer. Before the barb fitting turned, the casting cracked where it was thinnest. Oh shit. The most experienced guy tried to braze the crack but it just opened up more and more. Where the casting cracked was right below the hex molded into it. We discussed our problem and re-evaluated what we did and methods used and all agreed we did things right. The casting was paper thin at the crack and it was a blessing to find this now instead of it eroding through and failing at sea. Or you could say I should have left it alone and not messed with it. I could get a pipe nipple welded on the flange and I could fix the crack in the riser using an epoxy, but I chose to order new parts. My Barr riser was aluminum and I found it available online. The iron version is cheaper but out of stock. A new flange costs about the same as what a welder would charge to add a nipple to the old one. I looked at SS models but they look like they may not fit in my engine box, so I will replace with the same parts and the new exhaust should last longer than the engine. Chuck > On 07/16/2023 9:01 PM EDT David Knecht via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Hi chuck. What made you decide to replace it? Problems or trying to prevent > them? Dave > > Sent from my iPhone > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C34 Yanmar 3GM 20hp Exhaust Elbow
That SS kit looks really nice if it matches your engine. FWIW, it wouldn't match my Universal M4-30. So I'm replacing the exhaust riser mixing elbow with the same thing that lasted for 34 years. It has an iron 3 bolt flange at the engine, iron pipe nipples and aluminum casting for the elbow made by Barr. It's much more compact than a SS aftermarket elbow would be. Parts should arrive in a few days. I may get some SS nipples for it, if they're not too pricey. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis > On 07/16/2023 7:12 PM EDT Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Hello Yanmar 3GM owners, > I need to replace the U-type mixing elbow and exhaust elbow assembly on my > 3GM 20hp. If this topic has been discussed here previously, my apologies -- > I attempted a search of the archives but not sure I am conducting the search > correctly. > There seems to be debate about stainless steel vs cast iron and welded SS vs > cast SS. There is a complete SS kit at https://hdimarine.net/product/gm-kit/ > that appears to be high quality and reasonably priced (for a boat part...). > I will be grateful for any advice on source for the exhaust elbow/mixing > elbow and cast iron vs SS vs cast SS. Also, advice regarding the replacement > job as I will do this myself. Thanks. > Jeff Laman > 1981 C&C34 Harmony > Ludington, MI > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: pipe dope for Exhaust Riser
Found Permatex Muffler Repair rated to 2000 degrees, but it looks rather permanent. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-muffler-tailpipe-sealer-3-oz-80335/7020007-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=7020007-P&adtype=&product_channel=Online&store_code=&&&&&msclkid=8d8d1fbd400312ef30ed7b0e4220e961&gclsrc=ds Chuck S > On 07/15/2023 3:48 PM EDT Korbey Hunt via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Permatex high heat > > Get Outlook for Android https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg > > --------- > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2023 6:30:20 AM > To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER > Subject: Stus-List pipe dope for Exhaust Riser > > Here's a question for the mechanics in the group. > > I am replacing the engine's exhaust riser or mixing elbow and associated > threaded 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" nipples, and want to use the right pipe dope that > can handle the heat and make a good seal and hopefully make it easier to take > apart for the next person. > > I've been adised to use Never-Sieze on the bolts holding the flange and want > to use Megaloc by Hercules on the pipe threads, but don't see any temperature > stats on the can. > > Any suggestions? > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R Annapolis > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: pipe dope for Exhaust Riser
Permatex High Heat looks to be only rated to 400 degrees. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59235-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B000AAJTYS/ref=asc_df_B000AAJTYS?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80814222102116&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413749590749&th=1 C > On 07/15/2023 3:48 PM EDT Korbey Hunt via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Permatex high heat > > Get Outlook for Android https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg > > --------- > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2023 6:30:20 AM > To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER > Subject: Stus-List pipe dope for Exhaust Riser > > Here's a question for the mechanics in the group. > > I am replacing the engine's exhaust riser or mixing elbow and associated > threaded 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" nipples, and want to use the right pipe dope that > can handle the heat and make a good seal and hopefully make it easier to take > apart for the next person. > > I've been adised to use Never-Sieze on the bolts holding the flange and want > to use Megaloc by Hercules on the pipe threads, but don't see any temperature > stats on the can. > > Any suggestions? > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R Annapolis > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: pipe dope for Exhaust Riser
Gasoila looks like a good product, and it is rated for heat up to 600 degrees. I think Megaloc is superior. Diesel exhaust can be 1000 to 1200 degrees so I'm still looking. Thanks, Chuck S > On 07/15/2023 4:01 PM EDT Matt Wolford via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > FYI, the link below is to Gasoila technical information. > > > > https://www.jmesales.com/content/docs/Gasoila/TDS-soft-set.pdf > > > > > > > > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER > Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2023 11:18 AM > To: Stus-List > Cc: wolf...@erie.net > Subject: Re: Stus-List Re: pipe dope for Exhaust Riser > > > > Found Megaloc rated to 400 degrees. That's the normal temperature of a > diesel exhaust but it can get up to 1000 degrees when stressed or when there > is a problem, so I might look for something else. > > https://www.firstsupply.com/Product/HCCMEGALOC > https://linkprotect.cudasvc.com/url?a=https%3a%2f%2fwww.firstsupply.com%2fProduct%2fHCCMEGALOC&c=E,1,TA10JgQMBUudqWN5w6mDVysyfki1LK70XQgXsS9d5D848zCMF8VFDbzjbWOdmlaRHi6YJpIqZ-pGBBYGx4h8ij16JQ1xUHs5ebfdhrbUW7lHPKTY0KYb2DtAycgT&typo=1 > > > > C > > > > > On 07/15/2023 10:58 AM EDT Matt Wolford via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I’m not a mechanic and have not played one on TV. Based on the > > recommendation of a very good mechanic, I stopped using Teflon tape and now > > use Gasoila on everything with a pipe thread connection (hot or cold). > > > > > > > > Matt > > > > C&C 42 Custom > > > > > > > > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2023 9:30 AM > > To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> > > Subject: Stus-List pipe dope for Exhaust Riser > > > > > > > > Here's a question for the mechanics in the group. > > > > > > > > I am replacing the engine's exhaust riser or mixing elbow and associated > > threaded 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" nipples, and want to use the right pipe dope > > that can handle the heat and make a good seal and hopefully make it easier > > to take apart for the next person. > > > > > > > > I've been adised to use Never-Sieze on the bolts holding the flange and > > want to use Megaloc by Hercules on the pipe threads, but don't see any > > temperature stats on the can. > > > > > > > > Any suggestions? > > > > > > > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R Annapolis > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: pipe dope for Exhaust Riser
Found Megaloc rated to 400 degrees. That's the normal temperature of a diesel exhaust but it can get up to 1000 degrees when stressed or when there is a problem, so I might look for something else. https://www.firstsupply.com/Product/HCCMEGALOC C > On 07/15/2023 10:58 AM EDT Matt Wolford via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > I’m not a mechanic and have not played one on TV. Based on the > recommendation of a very good mechanic, I stopped using Teflon tape and now > use Gasoila on everything with a pipe thread connection (hot or cold). > > > > Matt > > C&C 42 Custom > > > > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2023 9:30 AM > To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER > Subject: Stus-List pipe dope for Exhaust Riser > > > > Here's a question for the mechanics in the group. > > > > I am replacing the engine's exhaust riser or mixing elbow and associated > threaded 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" nipples, and want to use the right pipe dope that > can handle the heat and make a good seal and hopefully make it easier to take > apart for the next person. > > > > I've been adised to use Never-Sieze on the bolts holding the flange and want > to use Megaloc by Hercules on the pipe threads, but don't see any temperature > stats on the can. > > > > Any suggestions? > > > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R Annapolis > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: pipe dope for Exhaust Riser
FWIW, I worked as an HVAC mechanic and know there are teflon tapes rated specifically for Gas. But the only time I used teflon tape is when threads were damaged and I followed up with Megaloc on top of it. I never like using tape as threads of tape can wind up clogging valves downstream. I never liked using teflon as tape or paste as I found leaks later. Megaloc works on everything including fuel, water, gas, gasoline, oxygen, acids, etc. My company wound up specifying it for all situations and it paid off in the long run. It's good stuff. C > On 07/15/2023 10:08 AM EDT Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I will be very interested in this discussion as I plan to replace my exhaust > riser assembly soon. I recently had a propane gas line installed in my house > and the technician cringed at the telfon tape used on the existing pipe. Not > the same thing of course, but never would have expected teflon tape does not > meet building code! > > Also, if anyone reading this thread has a source recommendation for an > exhaust riser/mixing elbow supplier, I would be grateful. Engine is a 1981 > Yanmar 3GM 20 hp (not the 30 hp as in many boats). > > Jeff Laman > 1981 C&C34 Harmony > Ludington, MI > > > - > From: Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List > Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2023 10:01 AM > To: Stus-List > Cc: Doug Mountjoy > Subject: Stus-List Re: pipe dope for Exhaust Riser > > I use Teflon tape on the pipe threads. A couple of wraps is good. > > Douglas Mountjoy > 1988 LF 39 > Mexico at large > 1984 Sabre 34 > Port Orchard, WA > > > On Sat, Jul 15, 2023, 06:30 CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Here's a question for the mechanics in the group. > > > > I am replacing the engine's exhaust riser or mixing elbow and associated > > threaded 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" nipples, and want to use the right pipe dope > > that can handle the heat and make a good seal and hopefully make it easier > > to take apart for the next person. > > > > I've been adised to use Never-Sieze on the bolts holding the flange and > > want to use Megaloc by Hercules on the pipe threads, but don't see any > > temperature stats on the can. > > > > Any suggestions? > > > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R Annapolis > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List pipe dope for Exhaust Riser
Here's a question for the mechanics in the group. I am replacing the engine's exhaust riser or mixing elbow and associated threaded 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" nipples, and want to use the right pipe dope that can handle the heat and make a good seal and hopefully make it easier to take apart for the next person. I've been adised to use Never-Sieze on the bolts holding the flange and want to use Megaloc by Hercules on the pipe threads, but don't see any temperature stats on the can. Any suggestions? Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R AnnapolisPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List keeping the bilge dry
Agree with Bill. Keeping the bilge dry is the best way to avoid "boat smell" and after 22 years owning my 34R, I found the easiest. laziest way to do that is using a wet vac. I keep a small one with a strong motor ready, in a dock box with a long hose and find it very handy. Mine is only 5 gallon and 5Hp so it is powerful and instead of adding antifreeze to the bilge in winter, I pump it dry. I added a piece of carpet to the bottom of the tank and threw away the casters so I can set it on the cabin floor or on the deck and it won't scratch it. You could also use a sponge, but I'm lazy and these things go on sale for less than $50. Chuck S > On 07/03/2023 12:04 PM EDT Bill Coleman via CnC-List > wrote: > > > My mast drains out a half inch tube from the mast. In the winter I have a > vinyl hose that goes out through a transducer hole and keeps the bilge dry. I > have a felt wick inside that tube to pull it uphill where need be. > > In the summer it drains into a plastic pan, and I try to get down there after > heavy rain and drain the pan to keep the bilge dry. Works great! > > Bill Coleman > Entrada, Erie PA > > On Sun, Jul 2, 2023, 21:33 Dean McNeill via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Thanks all… some great ideas! > > Dean > > > > > > > On Jul 2, 2023, at 9:58 PM, John Read via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > On my 34 while the mast was out I drilled 2 small holes in the aft “wall” > > > and forced in 2 small plastic tubes so the water dripped into the bilge. > > > Also drilled a small hole in the bottom aft of the mast so the water > > > could easily get into the box. I clean each tube with grass trimmer line > > > as part of annual maintenance. Works well. > > > > > > John Read > > > Legacy III > > > 1982 C&C 34 > > > Noank, CT > > > > > > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Water in mast step
On the 1989 34R, the maststep is a deep welded aluminum box with wooden spacer blocks in front and behind. The box originally had one 1/2" drain hole but the wooden blocks always looked wet. I added two 3/8" drain holes and also scallopped the bottoms of the wooden blocks so they left a path for water to find those holes. Chuck S > On 07/02/2023 2:57 PM EDT cenelson--- via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > My 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb had a hole as well--I found it as I was cleaning out > the mast step to drill a hole! > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > > On Sunday, July 2, 2023, 02:27:26 PM EDT, Matt Wolford via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > My 1978 C&C 34 had a small hole drilled in it, presumably for that purpose. > Never had a problem. > > > > From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List > Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2023 1:30 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: Dean McNeill > Subject: Stus-List Water in mast step > > > > I have a 1980 C&C 34. Keel stepped mast step gets water (from mast) and I’m > wondering if it’s okay / advisable to drill a small hole in the metal step so > the the water will drain into the bilge? > > > > Dean > > BarraWind > > C&C34, Halifax NS > > _ > > From Dean’s mobile > > 902 489 8556 > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness
Agree with Dave. Keep things simple. FWIW, The fuel pump on the M4-30 is original design. Says right in the manual that it eliminates the need to bleed air, as it pumps more volume than the engine requires and the excess returns to the tank, so it also polishes the fuel when running. When my fuel tank started leaking, I stuck the return line from the tank, into jerry cans and ran the pump by simply turning the key and was able to pump the majority of fuel out. Three cans of fuel I donated to a friend's heating oil tank. Replaced the tank in the boat, added new fuel, and ran the pump again for about fifteen minutes. Engine started right up without any bleeding. It's similar to glow plugs. Many engines don't have them and can be hard to start. A friend told me he uses a hair drier to preheat his Yanmar when it's cold out. It really comes down to learning your particular engine and what it likes. And these discussions help that process along. Chuck S > On 06/29/2023 10:26 AM EDT Dave S via CnC-List wrote: > > > Hadn’t thought of it before but even with a diesel this is a good reason to > stick with a stock mechanical fuel pump if so equipped. I’ve mused about > ‘improving’ my yanmar 2GMF20 but in stock form it has been very reliable. > Its fuel pump lived a long life and started seeping as a warning. (I ignored > that for too long but that’s another story) it was dead simple to replace, > bleed and get rolling again. Sometimes less is more. > > Dave 33-2 Windstar (for sale) > Alubat OVNI 435 (for sail) > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Jun 29, 2023, at 10:13 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > On a gasoline powered engine the oil pressure switch is a vital safety > > device, if you don’t have it and the engine stalls or you just leave the > > key on, a leaky float valve will have your entire fuel tank pumped into the > > bilge. I suspect it carried over in some ABYC reg into diesels. > > > > I have solved a couple frustrating issues on my boat with a fuel pressure > > gauge. I would think about installing a pressure gauge on the output side > > of the lift/low pressure pump on any engine, gas or diesel. Mine is > > electric and is mounted in the cockpit, it lights up a red alarm light when > > the fuel pressure is below 1 PSI. > > > > > > > > > > > > Joe Della Barba > > > > Coquina C&C 35 MK I > > > > Kent Island MD USA > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > > Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2023 12:00 AM > > To: Stus-List > > Cc: Neil Gallagher ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER > > > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness > > > > > > > > On my Universal M4-30, things work differently. The fuel pump is energized > > when you turn on the key switch, so that ticking starts before starting the > > engine and doesn't stop until you turn off the key switch. I think this is > > a better way to operate the system and I don't understand why anyone would > > interlock a fuel pump to the glowplug button and the oil pressure switch. > > Too complicated and unecessary. > > > > > > > > > > > > Chuck Scheaffer Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R Annapolis > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 06/28/2023 8:53 PM EDT Neil Gallagher via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness
On my Universal M4-30, things work differently. The fuel pump is energized when you turn on the key switch, so that ticking starts before starting the engine and doesn't stop until you turn off the key switch. I think this is a better way to operate the system and I don't understand why anyone would interlock a fuel pump to the glowplug button and the oil pressure switch. Too complicated and unecessary. Chuck Scheaffer Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R Annapolis On 06/28/2023 8:53 PM EDT Neil Gallagher via CnC-List wrote: > > > David, > > This may be a long shot, but on a Universal M3-20B that I installed on a club > launch, and I think all Universals, the fuel pump gets its power under normal > running conditions via an oil pressure switch. When starting the engine, the > glow plug switch energizes the electric fuel pump in addition to the glow > plugs (you can hear it clicking when you press the glow plug switch), but > once the oil pressure rises it closes the oil pressure switch and keeps the > fuel pump running when you let up on the glow plug switch. Incidentally the > reason you hear the pump running after you shut the engine off is that it > takes a few seconds for the oil pressure to drop to the point where the > switch opens. > > I ran in to a problem with that engine when sludge got in to the connection > to the oil pressure switch and kept it from closing properly, and thus the > fuel pump intermittently stopped running and stalled the engine. Until I > found the real problem I put a relay powered by the engine on/off key switch > that powered the fuel pump directly, but when I flushed the oil switch a few > times it cured the problem. > > Not sure how relevant this may be to your issues, but may be of interest. > > Neil Gallagher > Weatherly, 35-1 > Glen Cove, NY > > On 6/27/2023 12:45 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: > > > So I am back to my engine problem hoping someone can help clarify things. > > I have had the engine quit several more times, but with no consistency as > > to when or why it happens. We were on a cruise recently and used it often > > and for long periods going in and out of harbors. Mostly it worked fine > > but had it stall several times: start and run for a few minutes, then > > stall, restart then stall, restart then stall, then run fine for 20 min or > > more. This happened in two separate situations a few days apart but no > > stall several other times. In all cases, it has eventually restarted and > > ran for extended periods. These intermittent problems are the hardest to > > diagnose in my experience. This seems most likely to be a fuel related > > issue so now I am trying to fully understand the fuel system. > > > > I installed a Racor 500 unit last summer with a T-handle vacuum gauge on > > top. Fuel goes from the tank, through the shutoff lever to the Racor, then > > to the fuel pump, then to the secondary and on to the engine. If I > > understand this correctly, the gauge on the Racor unit will measure > > restriction in the fuel flow upstream of the gauge, ie the primary (30 µm > > in my case). I know the gauge works because if you partially shut off > > the fuel lever, you see the gauge gradually increase in vacuum reading. > > But it seems that it will not tell you if the secondary is plugged. > > > > 1. I don’t see how the secondary (10 µm in my case) could be plugged if the > > primary is fine but I guess not impossible. My temptation is to replace > > the secondary since the primary is not showing any sign of being plugged > > (from the gauge), but I don’t see how this could lead to an infrequent > > intermittent stall. > > 2. Fuel pump problem (loose wire etc.)? You can hear the fuel pump > > running when the engine is off and I have never heard it stop or pause. > > Can fuel pumps fail like this? Can that lead to an intermittent stall? > > 3. Air getting into fuel line- seems possible, but I don’t see how that > > can be the cause if the engine runs for an hour continuously once restarted. > > > > Any ideas welcome! Dave > > > > S/V Aries > > 1990 C&C 34+ > > New London, CT > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness king of drama
Hey Dave, Thanks for the drama. It was a fun thread. You are definitely the "king of drama" based on so many earlier threads. Thanks, Chuck S > On 06/10/2023 3:47 PM EDT David Knecht via CnC-List > wrote: > > > So the problem has not recurred in several hours of motoring over a few days > so i am going to write it off as launch day blues. No water in separator. > Fuel pressure gauge normal. I cant see that i can do anything about it > unless it keeps happening. Thanks for the ideas. Dave > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Jun 9, 2023, at 11:41 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List > > wrote: > > > > > > > I once had a similar engine issue. It would run fine one day (or half) and > > constant stall upon or shortly after restarts. It turned out that my Racor > > was not full tightened. Easy fix once found. > > > > - > > Paul E. > > 1981 C&C Landfall 38 > > S/V Johanna Rose > > Fort Walton Beach, FL > > > > http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ > > > > > > > On Jun 9, 2023, at 11:27 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > On Fri, Jun 9, 2023 at 7:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-List > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > I am out for the first time this season. Engine started right up. > > > > Motored out of harbor for two hours. Turned engine off for a while > > > > waiting for wind. Started back up. Ran for 15-30 sec and died. Started > > > > up and ran for a bit longer then died. Pulled bed to get access and > > > > fuel pressure and level in racor look fine. Started up and ran fine for > > > > 40 min. WTF? Dave > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness
Ah, vacuum leak. Hey Dave, didn't you redo the water seperator and fuel lines recently? WTF? C > On 06/09/2023 9:14 PM EDT John Christopher via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Had the exact same problem. It ended up being my secondary fuel filter at the > engine loosened. I didn't take any chances, so I changed the filter along > with the o-rings tightened it back up, and voila! > > /John > > > > On Jun 9, 2023, at 10:22 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List > > wrote: > > > > > > > I am out for the first time this season. Engine started right up. Motored > > out of harbor for two hours. Turned engine off for a while waiting for > > wind. Started back up. Ran for 15-30 sec and died. Started up and ran for a > > bit longer then died. Pulled bed to get access and fuel pressure and level > > in racor look fine. Started up and ran fine for 40 min. WTF? Dave > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness
Loose wire or bad terminal? My Universal M4-30 has an electric fuel booster pump. A dirty ground connection caused a problem called; speed up and die, or lack of fuel. Ours always restarted however and then cut out above half throttle. The wire terminal was green. Cleaned it with emery cloth and she ran fine for the next 12 hours. Once home, I changed the pump and hoses and remounted the water separater to it was easier to work on. Chuck S > On 06/09/2023 12:43 PM EDT Neil Andersen via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > My similar issue was due to a fuel pump issue. > > Neil Andersen, W3NEA > Formerly 1982 C&C 32, FoxFire > Rock Hall, MD 21661 > 484-354-8800 > > - > From: Dreuge via CnC-List > Sent: Friday, June 9, 2023 11:40:17 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Dreuge > Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness > > I once had a similar engine issue. It would run fine one day (or half) and > constant stall upon or shortly after restarts. It turned out that my Racor > was not full tightened. Easy fix once found. > > - > Paul E. > 1981 C&C Landfall 38 > S/V Johanna Rose > Fort Walton Beach, FL > > http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ > > > > On Jun 9, 2023, at 11:27 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List > > wrote: > > > > > > On Fri, Jun 9, 2023 at 7:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > I am out for the first time this season. Engine started right up. Motored > > > out of harbor for two hours. Turned engine off for a while waiting for > > > wind. Started back up. Ran for 15-30 sec and died. Started up and ran for > > > a bit longer then died. Pulled bed to get access and fuel pressure and > > > level in racor look fine. Started up and ran fine for 40 min. WTF? Dave > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Boat for Sale
Hi Tom, https://boatmax.com/boats/1990-cc-34/ Don't know much about Savage. Never saw her but do know she is hull 22 of 94 hulls built. Documented as No. 96637 and her HIN is ZCC34+22A090, started January 1990. Might be worth taking a trip to see some sights in NYC. Looks like the deep draft keel, 7' 4". Best sailing performance if you can sail in deep water. These boats are rare. They only made 94 hulls and they are spread out across the US and Canada. https://boatmax.com/boats/1990-cc-34/ Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis > On 06/09/2023 10:20 AM EDT htomsutton--- via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > I have been watching an ad for a 34+ named Savage that is with BoatMax in > Bronx, New York. It’s been for sale for awhile so I suspect it might be in > need of some TLC. Wondering if anyone is familiar with the boat and could > comment on it. It’s a 10 hour drive to go see it and it might save a lot of > time if it is too far past it’s best before date. > > Cheers, > > Tom S > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Therapy - Annapolis to NYC
Annapolis to Buffalo is one hell of an achievement and I hope a very rewarding experience. Chuck S On Jun 7, 2023, at 22:02, Thomas Perison via CnC-List wrote: Todd/all - Delayed response. Super great to meet-up to Todd ! What a great time and reinforces all of his and the group’s encouragement to do the trip. Passed the 600nm mark late today doing a 15.5 hr, 80nm move west. Should make Buffalo on Saturday. Tom Therapy 29-2 Sent from my iPhone Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Intake Hose
Be sure to google the internet for a better price on hose. West Marine is usually the highest price. Pick the best material for the job, but get the best price for it online. I saved 30% to 50% buying from internet suppliers when I replaced my engine's exhaust hose which costs $40/ft. Chuck S > On 06/07/2023 8:32 PM EDT Brian Morrison via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Thanks David, > > Went to West Marine today to check out some hoses. That stuff ain’t cheap. I > figure I’ll need at least 14ft. at $6-$9/ft. > > Brian C. Morrison > > > > On Jun 7, 2023, at 6:09 PM, David Risch via CnC-List > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > FYI…any resistance, whether head (rise) of discharge or corrugation of > > inner will increase friction and thereby reduce the outflow and the > > capacity of the pump. Smooth walled hoses for discharge are recommended. > > > > > > > > From: Todd Williams via CnC-List > > Sent: Wednesday, June 7, 2023 2:20 PM > > To: Stus-List > > Cc: Todd Williams > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Intake Hose > > > > > > > > Brian, > > > > > > > > Are you referring to the hose for the manual bilge pump “Gusher” that is in > > the cockpit? > > > > > > > > On my 1980 C&C34 the electric bilge pump outlet hose (3/4”) runs through > > the cabinetry in the head to the outlet just below the toe rail. The manual > > bilge pump outlet hose (1.5”) runs under the engine and loops up to the > > Gusher in the cockpit on the starboard side. > > > > > > > > I replaced my manual bilge pump hose this spring. The previous owner had > > used sanitary waste line, which was really stiff and had cracked. I just > > used corrugated sump pump drainage hose from a hardware store. > > > > > > > > I am happy to send photos if that helps. > > > > > > > > TODD > > > > Indigo Out We Go > > > > > > > > On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 1:59 PM Trevor Parry via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > Brian, > > > > > > > > > > > > Before doing that have you tried cleaning the outlet of any potential > > > debris or blockage? Mine did the same thing before I launched this year > > > and I managed to clear it out with a wire after a few jabs then it worked > > > fine. > > > > > > > > > > > > Regards > > > > > > > > > > > > Trevor > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Wed, Jun 7, 2023, 5:00 p.m. Brian Morrison via CnC-List > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Hello Mates, > > > > > > > > Can anyone tell me the specific type of hose used for the intake on a > > > > bilge pump? The pump in my CnC34 stopped pumping out. I checked the > > > > suction on the pump by temporarily disconnecting the existing hose and > > > > attaching a temporary. I put it in a bucket of water and the pump > > > > worked fine. I followed the hose in the bilge as far back as I could > > > > see but cannot see where it goes under the floor through the > > > > companionway. I’m not sure if it is actually two hoses that connect and > > > > the connection has come loose or if it’s one long hose that has been > > > > compromised. I plan to just run another hose. Any suggestions on the > > > > best hose to use? > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > Brian C. Morrison > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site > > > > and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > Thanks for your help. > > > > Stu > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > Thanks for your help. > > > Stu > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: checklists
I have an Android and the app is a free one. I think it's called "check off", but there were many others I haven't tried. You can make new lists. You can delete any item or the whole list. I like to arrange the task list in an order that makes it more convenient. Chuck S > On 06/07/2023 11:31 AM EDT Jeff Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > > > What is the app you are using? > I use Groceries shopping list for remembering things to take to the > boat/cottage/trip/lumber store/etc > > Cheers, > Jeff Nelson > Muir Caileag > C&C 30 - 549 > Armdale Y.C. > > On 2023-06-07 12:28, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote: > > > Does anyone else use checklists on their phone? I find them great for > > building better sailing habits and eliminating drama. > > > > I keep my boat 2.5 hrs away from home and I used to get halfway home before > > remembering I forgot to close a window or the thruhull for the air > > conditioner, or turn off a battery switch. Embarrassed, I would have to > > call my friend at the dock to check it for me. > > > > Last year, I found a free app for my phone that let's me make lists. And I > > made a list called, "Before leaving boat" and it has about twenty five > > items on it so nothing is missed including stowing the flag and closing > > thruhulls and wiping down the fridge and leaving the lid open (to prevent > > mildew). It helps build better habits and now I usually perform all the > > tasks from memory and just check them off afterward. It's great to ensure > > everything is done and not have to worry about it on the drive home. I > > also made a list, "Take to Boat" so I don't forget critical parts or tools > > needed for projects. The phone is always with me, so the list is too, and > > the app is free and so easy to use. > > > > > > Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis > > > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List checklists
Does anyone else use checklists on their phone? I find them great for building better sailing habits and eliminating drama. I keep my boat 2.5 hrs away from home and I used to get halfway home before remembering I forgot to close a window or the thruhull for the air conditioner, or turn off a battery switch. Embarrassed, I would have to call my friend at the dock to check it for me. Last year, I found a free app for my phone that let's me make lists. And I made a list called, "Before leaving boat" and it has about twenty five items on it so nothing is missed including stowing the flag and closing thruhulls and wiping down the fridge and leaving the lid open (to prevent mildew). It helps build better habits and now I usually perform all the tasks from memory and just check them off afterward. It's great to ensure everything is done and not have to worry about it on the drive home. I also made a list, "Take to Boat" so I don't forget critical parts or tools needed for projects. The phone is always with me, so the list is too, and the app is free and so easy to use. Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Rebuilding a Hurth transmission
Anybody ever rebuild a Hurth transmission? I believe the clutch discs on mine have worn to the point they need to be replaced. There are a few YouTube videos online that show the process. Very challenging and parts alone are $537. I think I can remove the unit from the engine and take it to a machine shop with a press, and have them rebuild it using my parts. Chuck Scheaffer 1989 C&C 34R, AnnapolisPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Chainplate bedding
The round headed bolts might be carriage bolts with a square shank that sits in a square hole. I would try a hydraulic jack or a screw jack, below deck and gently add pressure on one bolt at a time, pressing it out. I don't have your boat, so be very careful with my advice. Just offering ideas to help, Chuck S > On 06/03/2023 3:44 PM EDT Adrian C Humphreys via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Thanks, Dave and Doug. I'll go down to the boat tomorrow, and try wedging and > maybe hammering. > > I've added a sketch of how I think this thing works: the rod below is headed > over like rod rigging, captured in the cabin fitting, and held to the deck > fitting with the 4 bolts. I think all the parts must be SS for this to work > (30+ years). Dave, you've seen it all apart, please correct me. > > Unless the round-headed bolts are welded to the deck fitting, I don't get how > they resist turning when the nuts are backed off or tightened. > > https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateSketch.jpg > > Adrian Humphreys > Telamon Technologies, Inc. > POB 396, Rockport, ME 04856 > 207-763-4691, mobile: 207-542-2312 > adri...@telamontech.com > > > > > On Jun 3, 2023, at 10:30 AM, Dave S via CnC-List > > wrote: > > > > The design on the 33-2 chainplates is pretty good- actually I haven’t seen > > better - imho. I won’t try to describe it but you remove the bolts, the > > top plate (and bottom if you wish) clean both up, (I polished mine, > > couldn’t help myself) clean up the deck and rebed with butyl. > > It was done with butyl from the factory, so maintenance is a breeze, and it > > should be easy to remove the bolts by tapping from below with a mallet. I > > do not believe they are welded to the plate - 99% sure. > > You can also separate the deck fitting from the deck by tapping in a thin > > wedge a small amount - then wait - then tap again. Then wait. I use a > > thin, sharp putty knife to start. Then switch sides, then wait. The > > butyl is elastic and comes apart slowly, give it time. Patience is your > > friend. > > If more force is require to tap the bolts, reinstall the nuts in reverse > > but don’t tighten them. Tap on the nut not the bolt. Be careful though- > > if you really go to town you’ll learn about cold welding of stainless. > > (Shouldn’t require that in this case). > > Good luck. If no wise guy used 5200 or similar in the past it should be > > an easy job. > > Dave > > (33-2 with one chainplate re-bedded a few years ago.) > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > >> On Jun 3, 2023, at 10:16 AM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List > >> wrote: > >> > >> Looking at your pictures. I think you have corrosion between the bolts > >> and the aluminum backing plate. At least I'm guessing the backing plate is > >> aluminum. You might try penetrating oil for several days. Good luck. > >> > >> Douglas Mountjoy > >> 1988 LF 39 > >> Mexico at large > >> 1984 Sabre 34 > >> Port Orchard, WA > >> > >> On Sat, Jun 3, 2023, 06:43 Adrian C Humphreys via CnC-List > >> wrote: > >> I want to re-bed the chainplate covers on my C&C 33-2. > >> > >> Please help me understand how they are fastened. I have undone the > >> cabin-side nuts on the 4 bolts, but they are resisting my efforts to > >> withdraw the bolts from the deck-side, where the bolts have round heads. > >> > >> A socket wrench on the cabin-side nuts unscrewed them easily without > >> needing a wrench on the deck-side. > >> Are the bolts welded to the covers? > >> > >> To lift the cover without damage to cover or boat: > >> Do you hammer on the bolts from below? > >> Do you lever the covers up from the deck side? > >> > >> Images here: > >> https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateCabin.jpg > >> > >> https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateDeck.jpg > >> > >> Thanks, > >> > >> Adrian Humphreys > >> Epilogue, Rockport ME > >> C&C 33-2 > >> adri...@telamontech.com > >> > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Ritchie Compass Repair
FWIW, had a bubble in my Ritchie compass in 2002, twenty years ago and a local guy (in NJ) who works on those, cleaned it, topped off the fluid and replaced the seal for $75. Still good, no bubble. I would google "Ritchie repair near me" or "compass repair near me" to see if someone may be at hand. Chuck S > On 05/30/2023 1:48 PM EDT Shawn Wright via CnC-List > wrote: > > > How much did they charge? Mine has been sitting in a box for a few years due > to a cracked dome and slow leak. > > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com > S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35 > https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto > > On Tue, May 30, 2023 at 9:40 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > The good news: Not only is my leak fixed, I think they just sent me a new > > compass. I cannot identify any part that doesn’t look brand new. If it > > lasts another 50 years I will be happy. > > > > The ??? news: The light is green instead of red. I am not sure I like this, > > I will have to see how it goes. > > > > The bad news: I am not 100% sure it will mount without some effort, It is > > not obvious if it has the same screw holes. > > > > > > > > > > > > Joe Della Barba > > > > Coquina C&C 35 MK I > > > > Kent Island MD USA > > > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Underway diesel fix - long read
Hey Dennis, Had the electric fuel booster pump quit on me in East River, NY. We learned we could run the engine up to about half throttle to get to a marina where we could work on it. Universal M4-30. We motored to Atlantic Highlands and took a mooring to work on the engine. We didn't know we had an electric pump having just bought the boat and the thing was all black and looked like a manifold. Went to town and bought new filters and belts. We spent half a day, changed all the filters and belt and bled the injectors before realizing a little black wire had a green coroded terminal going that manifold. Cleaned the terminal with some WD40 and 400 grit sand paper and when we turned on the key, heard what we thought was a manifold going "tic-tic-tic". Engine started right up. We didn't need the engine much after we fixed it, as a front blowing 25 to 30 off the land, blew us all the way down the Jersey coast on flat water with main and small jib to Atlantic City. I replaced the pump with one from NAPA after we got the boat home, and she's run fine since. Chuck Scheaffer, 1989 C&C 34R, boat is presently near Annapolis > On 05/27/2023 9:47 PM EDT Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I brought Touche' back from Pensacola to its home slip on Lake Pontchartrain > this week. Overall a nice sail with fair winds and weather. > > Had one glitch. Here's an excerpt from the trip report I sent some of my > sailing buddies. > > Thursday we were motor sailing past Petit Bois Island, Mississippi. We'd > just crossed the Pascagoula Ship Channel. Touche's engine quit. Just quit. > No slowing down or whatever. Just died. WTF? The engine is a Universal > 25XPB with about 2000 hours on it. > > First thing I did was open the cockpit locker and look at the vacuum gauge on > the Racor 500MA fuel filter. It was still in the yellow where it normally > runs. I pulled the top and checked the filter element anyway. I looked > fairly clean. Next I investigated if the filter might have an air leak and > the level had dropped below the discharge. The filter was only about half > full. I keep a small jug of diesel for topping off the filter if need be. I > topped it off and put the filter element back in. I inspected the filter lid > o-ring and gasket. The gasket is square and can get twisted. Both looked > normal. Buttoned up the filter and tried to start the engine. It would > barely idle and died. > > The engine has an electric fuel pump. Okay, next we checked the pump. I put > my finger on the pump. My buddy turned on the ignition and pressed the > preheat button. Normally an electric fuel pump goes "click, click, > click". Only one click. Aha! Dead fuel pump. > > The wind was good and we were still carrying 5 knots or so. Fortunately, I > had a spare fuel pump on board. I spent about 1.5-2 hours changing it. > Before I installed it, I checked it for operation by powering it up. Yep. > It went "click, click, click". > > Got the new pump installed and we're ready to fire it up. My buddy turns on > the ignition and hits the preheat button. Nothing, zip, nada. Even the > audible alarm was silent. Big WTF?? He notices that even the engine gauges > aren't moving. Hmmm. No power to the panel?? He says his Yanmar has a fuse > on the engine and he thinks Westerbeke/Universals may have a circuit breaker. > I grab the engine manual, pull up the wiring diagram. It shows a 20 amp > breaker. Who knew? But...where the heck is it? After a bit of searching, I > found it on the bracket where the fuel pump and some miscellaneous engine > electrical components are. I reach behind the panel, find the reset button > and hear a click when I press it. Okay. We try the engine again and it > fires right up. Yay! Good to go. > > That lasts about a minute. It immediately dies again. Crap! I start the > investigation again. Open the cockpit locker to look at the vacuum gauge. > Oh, what a dumbass! I'd shut off the fuel valve to change the pump. I > opened the valve. The engine fired up and away we went. > > All told, we only lost about an hour on our arrival time and avoided a large > tow bill. > > A bit of internet research later revealed that the $256 Westerbeke 39275 fuel > pump is really a Facet 40185N. I found one on eBay for $76. Same pump. > > This mimics the tachometer/hourmeter replacement from a couple weeks ago. > The Westerbeke part was $350. I found the identical part made by Datcon from > a hot rod shop for $150. When I looked at the old one, it had the Datcon > name and part number on it. > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for th
Stus-List Re: v-belt tensioning tool
That's just what I was decribing Ken. Beautiful. While we are on the subject, too much tension can ruin the alternator bearings, so be careful. Proper tension should be just tight enough there is no slippage. Usually that means you can still grab the longest part of the belt and give it a quarter turn. Chuck S > On 05/14/2023 4:39 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List > wrote: > > > This looks like an easy to make tool. Just a turnbuckle from the > hardware store and a little grinding. > > https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=10338.0 > > Ken H. > > On Sun, May 14, 2023 at 4:53 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > > > Hello, > > > > > > > > A while ago someone on this list talked about a simple (and > > inexpensive) tool that could be used as the third hand when tensioning the > > V-belt. > > > > > > > > The normal problem is that you need, really, three hands: two to > > hold the alternator in position, preferable with help of some lever, and > > the third to tighten the bolt that holds it. That tool was supposed to > > allow the procedure to be completed single-handedly. > > > > > > > > I think that the tool was from McMaster-Carr, or Harbor Freight, or > > some similar outlet. > > > > > > > > I tried to find it searching through Google, but to no avail. In > > the end, I used the 3rd and 4th hand (of a helpful friend), but I’d like to > > be able to do it on my own. > > > > > > > > Could someone point me to this implement? > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > Marek > > > > > > > > 1994 c270 ”Legato” > > > > Ottawa, ON > > > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album > > site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album > > site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: v-belt tensioning tool
I think if the belt is 3/8", you could fashion the tool from a turnbuckle with 1/4" or 3/8" eyes and grind the eyes so you're left with a Y on each end vee'd to match the belt, to properly fit the pulley grooves. An aluminum turnbuckle from any hardware store could be used. Chuck S > On 05/14/2023 4:32 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I've seen a tool made from a turnbuckle. It has to be shorter than the > distance between the engine block pulley and the alternator pulley. The tool > has ends that match the belt shape and sits in the grooves of the pulleys. > You place the ends in the pulleys and turn the turnbuckle barrel to tension > the belt, tighten the bolt and remove the turnbuckle. > > On my Universal M4-30, I found a simpler way was to use an adjustable > wrench as a lever. I loosen the alternator hinge bolt a little and loosen > the adjustment bolt using a 1/2" box wrench. Then I stick the handle of the > adjustable between the engine block and the alternator body and gently > tension the belt with my left hand, back on the jaws part, feel the belt, > when it feels right, I tighten the alternator adjustment bolt with the box > wrench. Then I retighten the mounting bolt back up. Easy-peasy. > > You can find tools from Graingers or McMaster-Carr > > Chuck S > > > > On 05/14/2023 3:53 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > > > > > Hello, > > > > > > A while ago someone on this list talked about a simple (and > > inexpensive) tool that could be used as the third hand when tensioning the > > V-belt. > > > > > > The normal problem is that you need, really, three hands: two to > > hold the alternator in position, preferable with help of some lever, and > > the third to tighten the bolt that holds it. That tool was supposed to > > allow the procedure to be completed single-handedly. > > > > > > I think that the tool was from McMaster-Carr, or Harbor Freight, or > > some similar outlet. > > > > > > I tried to find it searching through Google, but to no avail. In > > the end, I used the 3rd and 4th hand (of a helpful friend), but I’d like to > > be able to do it on my own. > > > > > > Could someone point me to this implement? > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > Marek > > > > > > 1994 c270 ”Legato” > > > > Ottawa, ON > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album > > site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site > > and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: v-belt tensioning tool
I've seen a tool made from a turnbuckle. It has to be shorter than the distance between the engine block pulley and the alternator pulley. The tool has ends that match the belt shape and sits in the grooves of the pulleys. You place the ends in the pulleys and turn the turnbuckle barrel to tension the belt, tighten the bolt and remove the turnbuckle. On my Universal M4-30, I found a simpler way was to use an adjustable wrench as a lever. I loosen the alternator hinge bolt a little and loosen the adjustment bolt using a 1/2" box wrench. Then I stick the handle of the adjustable between the engine block and the alternator body and gently tension the belt with my left hand, back on the jaws part, feel the belt, when it feels right, I tighten the alternator adjustment bolt with the box wrench. Then I retighten the mounting bolt back up. Easy-peasy. You can find tools from Graingers or McMaster-Carr Chuck S > On 05/14/2023 3:53 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > Hello, > > > A while ago someone on this list talked about a simple (and inexpensive) > tool that could be used as the third hand when tensioning the V-belt. > > > The normal problem is that you need, really, three hands: two to hold the > alternator in position, preferable with help of some lever, and the third to > tighten the bolt that holds it. That tool was supposed to allow the procedure > to be completed single-handedly. > > > I think that the tool was from McMaster-Carr, or Harbor Freight, or some > similar outlet. > > > I tried to find it searching through Google, but to no avail. In the end, > I used the 3rd and 4th hand (of a helpful friend), but I’d like to be able to > do it on my own. > > > Could someone point me to this implement? > > > Thanks > > > Marek > > > 1994 c270 ”Legato” > > Ottawa, ON > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Question and Report
Moeller Marine makes many different sized fuel tanks. I would measure the area in the boat and pick a tank model that fits and then research the web for the best price. All the marine suppliers sell them, West Marine, Defender, Go2Marine, etc. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=moeller+marine+plastic+permanent+fuel+tank&t=newext&atb=v316-1&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images Chuck S > On 05/08/2023 11:30 PM EDT Matt Wolford via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > Listers: > > > > Hope all is well. > > > > First, I have a question. A friend of mine who owns a C&C 41 > (probably ‘80s vintage) discovered that his aluminum diesel tank is leaking. > He plans to pull it tomorrow to confirm. I talked briefly with Bill Coleman > on this list, and he suggested replacing the aluminum tank with a plastic > tank. Does anyone know a source for a plastic replacement diesel tank that > will fit this boat? (I assume it’s about 20 gallons.) Please advise. > Thanks. > > > > Second, I thought I’d report on a recent discovery you may > find interesting. As most of you know, my boat is a C&C 42 Custom, “Custom” > meaning that it was not a production run boat and was built in the Bruckmann > shop. Six of these “stick boats” were built in the mid ‘70s. Every year > about this time of year, I get annoyed by a stubborn crack that appears near > the top of the forward edge of the keel, near the top where it meets the > hull. As most of you understand, this is the front of the so-called C&C > smile. On my boat, the C&C smile crack runs along the bottom of the hull > where the keel is mated, more or less parallel to the bottom of the hull (the > “main smile”). However, I have a second C&C smile that starts at the forward > edge of the keel about four of five inches below the forward edge of the main > smile, then tapers up toward the bottom of the hull, eventually meeting the > main smile about 2/3 of the way back to the aft edge of the keel. I never > understood why I get this “second smile.” > > > > A few weeks ago some water was seeping out of the stubborn crack at the front > edge of the main smile, and I asked my guru to find out what the heck is > going on. After some grinding and drilling, he informed me that my keel was > probably not made to fit my boat. Instead, the keel from another boat was > adapted to fit my boat by creating a lead “wedge” piece (sort of like a big > shim) that is widest at the forward edge of the keel and tapers going aft. > This wedge fits between the top of the original keel and the hull, giving me > two mating seams and thus two C&C smiles. Apparently, my boat is very happy. > > > > Matt > > > > Matt Wolford > > C&C 42 Custom > > Erie, PA > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Now Repairing Awlcraft
Very good looking paint job that must make you proud. The boat looks shipshape, happy, and ready to go. > On 04/27/2023 5:00 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Promised pics of the Awlcraft repair. Launched Touche' yesterday. The > scuff marks were repaired. Again, the paint was Awlcraft 2000 Sunfast Red. > > Before repair: > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FQt41lVzJan53DjasgmSXMALKRj7IwaJ/view?usp=share_link > > After repair: > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EnrZpVRYDwe5EH9bfv79bJeAuRaPFuFb/view?usp=share_link > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Pedestal brand
Most likely it's an Edson, but another possibility is Whitlock. They were strong with Canadian yachts back when. https://www.whitlocksteering.com/ Don't mean to badmouth Edson, but their service is 10% of what is was ten years ago. Then, you could find every boat's drawings for how the steering is designed; every brand and every different C&C was represented. Sadly, they claim they lost all the files and stopped supporting the website. Chuck S > On 04/27/2023 2:09 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Could it be Cinkel? (not sure bout spelling) > > Richard > s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596 > > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > (502) 584-7255 > > > -Original Message- > From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List > To: Stus-List > Cc: Chuck Gilchrest > Sent: Thu, Apr 27, 2023 1:28 pm > Subject: Stus-List Re: Pedestal brand > > It might be a Morch pedestal which appeared on several C&C yachts in the > early years. Take a picture and post a link to that photo and I can probably > identify it. For the record, parts for a Morch pedestal are pretty much > unicorns at this point. > Chuck Gilchrest > Former Edson guy > Landfall 35 > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > On Apr 27, 2023, at 10:57 AM, Don Kern via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Reminder: The Ocean Race Leg 4 is underway
Yeah, big fan here. I've been following Malizia's daily video reports, Boris Herrman's boat and very impressed by there teamwork, onshore coaching and their photo journalist is a true cheerleader. Very strong team. The boat is impressive too, with standing headroom lacking in the others. Can't watch the race till later. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis > On 04/23/2023 4:15 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Leg 4 of the Ocean Race started a couple hours ago. Itajai, Brazil to > Newport. Track it here: > > https://www.theoceanrace.com/en/racing/tracker > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List rudder grease fittings
My 1989 34R had delrin bearings and back in 2004, I fixed the slight bit of play and hum by dropping the rudder, drilling the shaftlog and installing zerk fittings. I grease these bearings using a food grade synthetic grease. Major improvement and has worked for twenty plus years. Chuck S Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble
Thanks for reminding me. I have to take the grease gun to the boat and grease the rudder bearings, next time. Chuck S > On 04/20/2023 10:46 PM John Read via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > I dropped my rudder for repairs some 10 years ago and to my recollection, > the 34 system does not have a lower bushing or bearing. Rather is just a > close tolerance fiberglass tube. The outside of the tube is braced by > fiberglass struts to the interior of the hull. Top of the tube ends about a > foot or so from underside of cockpit floor to provide space for steering > quadrant and be well above water line. Shaft continues up through cockpit > floor square cast bronze fitting held in place by 4 bolts. Fitting hole for > rudder shaft is also close tolerance so threads for donut ride on hole edges. > This is the real issue as over time the threads enlarge the fitting hole > allowing the rudder post to wobble. Hence the solution to remove the fitting > and insert a new bushing. > > > On a related note, the tube should have a threaded hole for a grease cup. > Ensure that is working so you can insert grease as part of normal > maintenance. I replace the cup with a hydraulic hose with fittings so I > could insert grease from the locker and not have to crawl back there > > > Best of luck > > > John Read > > 1982 C&C 34 > > > From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List > Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2023 1:45 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: Hoyt, Mike ; Korbey Hunt > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble > > > Thank you. It would be difficult to access anything in the space below > the cockpit. Where can I purchase a replacement bearing? Are there two that > need replacement? > > > Get Outlook for Android https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg > > > - > > From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2023 10:41:35 AM > To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > Cc: Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble > > > On Persistence websitehttp://www.hoytsailing.com/ at the bottom of the > page is a link to the rudder bearing replacement project that we undertook > two years ago. Different boat but much of it will be similar. > > > At least you will not have to deal with a steering quadrant and a bunch > of cables so access should be better. We found that the lower bearing (was > in fact a bushing) had screws holding it in place that we did not find until > we cut out the old bearing. Look closely for these screws while you are > enjoying all the comforts of crawling around in your cockpit locker! > > > Mike Hoyt > > Persistence > > Halifax, NShttp://www.hoytsailing.com > > > > From: John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > Sent: April 20, 2023 2:35 PM > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > Cc: John Read mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble > > > Check bearing where rudder post comes through cockpit floor just under > tiller fitting. It wears over time allowing wobble. Had issue with my 82 34. > Fix was done on the hard. Support rudder. Remove bearing. Machine shop > inserted bronze bearing. Reinstall. John Read > > > On Thu, Apr 20, 2023, 1:23 PM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > > > I have a 1980 34 C&C that has developed a profound tiller wobble > > while under power . Has anyone else had this experience? What is the > > remedy. I plan to haul out in June to inspect. > > > > > > Get Outlook for Android https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album > > site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album > > site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: AC/DC Distribution panel upgrade
Thought your email would draw a larger response. Maybe people missed it? Anyway, I recently installed shorepower to my boat, power inlet, 120v breaker panel w meters and nine receptacles and found excellent advice on terminals and tools and tips from https://marinehowto.com/ Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R Annapolis > On 04/18/2023 1:14 PM Kevin Wright via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Hi All, > I'm getting ready to replace the electrical panel on our boat with a Blue > Seas 8408. Has anyone done this? I would love to see some installation > pictures and see how/what others have done and used for bus bars and terminal > blocks? > Any other insight is more than welcome! > If you are brave, this is a link to a few pictures I took on the weekend. > > https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/4y45cij1k400lslqcztab/h?dl=0&rlkey=djc1c03vkuwhc4sl8dwrorn9v > > Thanks > Kevin > 1985 Landfall 43 > Raven > Midland ON > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Listers in North Carolina?
Hey shipmate, Sorry we couldn't reconnect, but I'll keep the offer open. Wishing you a great trip. Chuck S > On 04/05/2023 5:32 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Hi Chuck, > > Yes, we saw a bunch of kiteboarders and windsurfers on the sound side of > Hatteras near Avon. We were there during a gale warning - the ferries even > shut down. > > Regarding the boom, I looked on Selden’s website for dealers in the US and > contacted a half-dozen of them. I learned that shipping a new boom to > Colorado was going to cost me $1K (yes, seriously). Meanwhile I already had > a three-week trip planned with my travel trailer to the Florida panhandle > (St. George Island State Park, fantastic place), St. Augustine where a race > week was happening coincidentally, Charleston, the Outer Banks, and home via > Nashville and Lake of the Ozarks. Omar Sails in New Bern, NC is a Selden > dealer and was one of the half-dozen I contacted. Craig Beavers there was by > far the most responsive and helpful of all the dealers I contacted. He told > me there is a Selden manufacturing site in Charleston, and confirmed I could > pick up the boom there myself and transport it home in my travel trailer > (which has 24’ finished space). So I ordered the boom from Craig, and > stopped at Selden about a week ago and met the guys who built it, and we > stuffed it into my trailer. It was an obvious and easy way to save $1K in > shipping. > > Annapolis was not on the itinerary for this trip, but thanks for the offer! > > Cheers, > Randy > > > On Apr 4, 2023, at 9:53 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER > > wrote: > > > > Hey Randy, > > Agree, Ocracoke is very charming. It has a cute little harbor and marina > > and a wonderfully long beach where I used to drive my Subaru loaded with > > windsurfers about twenty years ago. My wife and I made a windsurf trip in > > 2020 to Hatteras and sailed the sound side behind Avon for a week. > > Incredible seafood restaurants. "Apple Uglys" from the bakery in Buxton > > are a must. > > > > Curious how you discovered a sailmaker in NC? > > > > I imagine you are driving around with that boom, sightseeing your way back > > to Colorado? Let me know if you plan to get close to Annapolis. I'd love > > to get you out on my boat. > > > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Magothy River > > > > > > > >> On 04/04/2023 8:45 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List > >> wrote: > >> > >> > >> Hello Listers, > >> > >> I remember seeing posts in this forum about C&C owners in North Carolina. > >> This weekend I visited Ocracoke and was smitten. Charming place. On the > >> way to OBX I stopped in Charleston, SC and picked up a new Selden boom for > >> Grenadine. I ordered it through Omar Sails in New Bern, NC, and got great > >> service from Craig Beavers there. Great part of the country! > >> > >> Cheers, > >> Randy > >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >> Thanks for your help. > >> Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Listers in North Carolina?
Hey Randy, Agree, Ocracoke is very charming. It has a cute little harbor and marina and a wonderfully long beach where I used to drive my Subaru loaded with windsurfers about twenty years ago. My wife and I made a windsurf trip in 2020 to Hatteras and sailed the sound side behind Avon for a week. Incredible seafood restaurants. "Apple Uglys" from the bakery in Buxton are a must. Curious how you discovered a sailmaker in NC? I imagine you are driving around with that boom, sightseeing your way back to Colorado? Let me know if you plan to get close to Annapolis. I'd love to get you out on my boat. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Magothy River > On 04/04/2023 8:45 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Hello Listers, > > I remember seeing posts in this forum about C&C owners in North Carolina. > This weekend I visited Ocracoke and was smitten. Charming place. On the way > to OBX I stopped in Charleston, SC and picked up a new Selden boom for > Grenadine. I ordered it through Omar Sails in New Bern, NC, and got great > service from Craig Beavers there. Great part of the country! > > Cheers, > Randy > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Lifeline safety netting
Interesting project. As much as I like Amsteel and dyneema, I think the lifeline netting is better suited for less expensive line, like paracord or lashing cord. Still, I appreciate the group's opinions and look forward to simple, leass expensive solutions. Thanks, Chuck S > On 04/02/2023 2:53 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > Mine has never chafed through, I replace it when it looks scroungy. > > > > Joe Della Barba > > Coquina C&C 35 MK I > > Kent Island MD USA > > > > > From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List > Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2023 12:43 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: Bruno Lachance > Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Lifeline safety netting > > > Dave, I have the same vintage more square shape toe rail profile . But > with cow hitch around it there is not a lot of movement/friction. I don’t use > my netting as a hammock! > > > Dyneema would sure be nice and durable, more slippery so the knots will > slip a bit more. I have redone my lifeline with gray dyneema and love it so > far after 3 seasons. I do my best to prevent chafe. > > Bruno Lachance > > > > > > > > Le 2 avr. 2023 à 11:08, David Knecht via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > a écrit : > > > > > > > > > > On the 34+, the perforated aluminum toe rail has relatively sharp > > edges. It cuts through my cover ties every winter, so I suspect it would > > do the same to nylon line wrapped through it. That is why I am looking > > into dyneema netting. I am surprised yours has lasted 10 years with > > paracord. What are you wrapping around at deck level? Dave > > > > > > S/V Aries > > > > 1990 C&C 34+ > > > > New London, CT > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Apr 2, 2023, at 8:24 AM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > > > > > > I have used black paracord. Looks like new after 10 years. > > > Northern climate. > > > > > > > > > Bruno Lachance > > > > > > Bécassine 33-2 > > > > > > New-Richmond, Qc > > > > > > Envoyé de mon iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Le 2 avr. 2023 à 06:48, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > a écrit : > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > What line would you suggest would be best for a > > > > lifeline net? Leechline? Lashing cord? Paracord? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Chuck S > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 03/31/2023 10:14 AM Joe Della Barba via > > > > > CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Here is what mine looks like: > > > > > > > > > > http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/net.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Joe Della Barba > > > > > > > > > > Coquina C&C 35 MK I > > > > > > > > > > Kent Island MD USA > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and > > > > > the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a > > > > > contribution at: > > > > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > > Thanks for your help. > > > > > Stu > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the > > > > Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Lifeline safety netting
What line would you suggest would be best for a lifeline net? Leechline? Lashing cord? Paracord? Chuck S > On 03/31/2023 10:14 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > Here is what mine looks like: > > http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/net.jpg > > > > Joe Della Barba > > Coquina C&C 35 MK I > > Kent Island MD USA > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Bringing lines back to Cockpit.
I've crewed on several boats where things were hard to operate due to the friction caused by pour installation and zero maintenance. Some tips I remember: layout the clutches so the heavily loaded lines line up with the right side (looking forward) of the winch drum, so the winch has the highest leverage and the line has the least friction. The main halyard and genoa halyard are the highest loads and it's easy to route one halyard to starboard and the other to port so the highest loads are taken care of. My Barient winches (manuals on Stu's cncphotoalbum.com) are best oriented so the final driving cog is mated to the outside drum where the line meets the drum. The line then presses the drum against the gear and this helps mesh the gears together in an efficient manor. You may be able to position the winches close to the companionway so the handles clear the dodger frame. I used a sheet of thin G-10 and some thickend epoxy to create a flat surface to mount my winches on the cur ved cabintop. West Systems has illustrations in their manual which I think is free online. Recommend you read the online installation tips from your clutch and winch manufacturers as the distance between clutch and winch are crucial too. It's all about getting the best performance and longest life from your equipment. Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis > On 03/30/2023 3:49 PM Dave S via CnC-List wrote: > > > Double check the orientation and total operating footprint consumed by > the line clutches before you proceed, especially if they will live under a > dodger. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > On Mar 30, 2023, at 2:11 PM, Bob Mann via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > I did this on my 35-1 (called Mystic). I used Garhauer > too but this one: Deck Organizer 30-DO-QBI | Garhauer (garhauermarine.com) > https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/deck-blocks-hardware-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/deck-organizers/deck-organizer-30-do-qbi/ > . I chose a location about even with the front of the mid-boat hatch and > angled them so the angle to mast was the same as the angle to the clutch. > Check coach roof to make sure there's nothing in the way for where the bolts > come through the deck. I ended up with one bolt half on a molded edge. I > have the plastics caps for hiding the holes, if you want some. > > > > Halyard length needs to be twice deck-to-masthead height + distance > > back to cockpit + about 6 feet. > > > > Bob > > > > > > > On 03/30/2023 1:52 PM John McCrea via > > CnC-List wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Hello. In the process of moving all my lines from the mast > > > back to the cockpit and wanted to see what others have done. All old > > > winches and deck gear is off. Also, I am going to replace my jib halyards > > > (main, spin and topping lift were already back to the cockpit on old > > > blocks etc) if anyone has an any measurements for the 36-1 halyards to > > > the cockpit please let me know. > > > > > > > > > > > > For the new deck hardware. > > > > > > > > > > > > I am thinking about using the following: > > > > > > > > > > > > Deck Organizer 40-DO-QB | Garhauer (garhauermarine.com) > > > https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/deck-blocks-hardware-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/deck-organizers/deck-organizer-40-do-qb/ > > > > > > > > > Spinlock Mid-Size Boat Deck Organizer | Defender > > > https://defender.com/en_us/spinlock-mid-size-boat-deck-organizer > > > > > > > > > Still looking at clutches, want quads and > > > Spinlock/Lewmar/Garhauer have them. > > > > > > > > > > > > Bought two used Lewmar 30 ST for each clutch. > > > > > > > > > > > > I am thinking I need to get both the deck organizers up near > > > the mast where the winches used to be and the clutch organizers to make > > > sure that the lines are not hitting up against the traveler base. > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks! > > > > > > > > > > > > John McCrea > > > > > > Talisman > > > > > > 1979 36-1 > > > > > > Mystic, CT > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo > > > Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > Thanks for your help. > > > Stu > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo > > > Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > >
Stus-List Re: Defender Annual Sale
Wow, I worried Defender might drop the free shipping because bottom paint is HazMat and ships ground only. Good for you. C > On 03/30/2023 3:00 PM Mike Rose via CnC-List > wrote: > > > FWIW.. > > I ordered my bottom paint @ 9:30am today, paint was 15% off, my Defender > 1 discount was added, and over $99 free shipping. > I was notified @ 11:30 from UPS it had shipped. > The Website/checkout experience was nice, bummed that my past order > history was missing. > > Mike R > > On Thu, Mar 30, 2023 at 2:23 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > FWIW, the Defender sale started today. I see some good > prices on bottom paint compared to other sites but not sure of the shipping > charges. > > > > Chuck S > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album > > site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album > > site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Defender Annual Sale
FWIW, the Defender sale started today. I see some good prices on bottom paint compared to other sites but not sure of the shipping charges. Chuck S Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Bomar hatch refurb update
Hey David, I used a company called Annapolis Maritime Plastics to make new cast acrylic panels for my windows several years ago. They are a little pricey but do quality work and do what the say. Cost me $1000 to make all my side windows to template in 1/4" thick 2074. Limosene dark. I more recently had the cabintop slider and window pane made and that cost me $500 for 3/8" thick 2074. Thicker because people stand on it. The company used to have a large storefront for years but lost people during COVID and was taken over by a guy who works out of his home workshop. I would highly recommend them for their work, but you might find a better bargain, elsewhere. https://maritimefabrication.com/ 410-263-4424 Dave S does some beautiful work, but considering all the time and money, I'd buy new hatches and upgrade to one of the newer style, lower profile, venting models. New frame, new hardware, new hinges, new lever locks, etc. But that's just my two cents. Chuck S > On 03/26/2023 6:29 AM David Swensen via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Dave, Where did you source your 3/8 acrylic? Is it cast and is it 2074? > Thanks, > David Swensen > Freya 35MK3 > Beverly, MA > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > On Mar 25, 2023, at 9:11 PM, Dave S via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html?m=1 > > > > Dave - 33-2 > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album > > site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album > > site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Bed it Butyl Tape
That's great news, you ordered Bed-It. Please let us know when it actually arrives. Thanks, Chuck S > On 03/22/2023 6:11 PM Leeward Rail via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Awhile back there was a list discussion on where to buy Bed-it Butyl > Tape. > > As mentioned at that time, sailboatowners.com has worked with Rod to get > it made again after Rod had a stroke. > > They now have it in stock and ships in 1 business day. > > 4 rolls for me and my marina buddies are inbound. I was getting worried > that their stock would arrive in time for spring ! > > https://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?55717 > > > Cheers > Roy > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Cored hulls feedback wanted
Balsa Core: I'm pretty sure balsa coring was used by almost every manufacturer from the 70's, 80's and 90's to save weight, add stiffness, and problems can be detected by a decent survey. C&C used Balsa but so did Pearson, O'Day, Columbia, Ericson, Swan, Baltic, Beneteau, Jeanneau, Peterson, Morgan, Hunter, Catalina, Columbia, on and on. If you held a piece of balsa cored deck and compared it's lightness and stiffness to a solid laminate, you'd understand why a cored hull is so amazing and highly desirable. I'd say 90% of the boats in the average boatyard are balsa cored boats, sailboats and powerboats. I've done some balsa core replacement and can share photos, but the end result is faired and painted and the repairs are undetectable, so my boat now looks better than when I bought her twenty years ago. Plus, all of my deck penetrations are now overdrilled, filled with thickened epoxy, and redrilled for the fasteners, so the balsa is sealed from moisture, which wasn't done when my boat was built. If a deck fastener leaks over time, the water will pass the balsa core and drip into the boat, alerting the owner to rebed the fitting. Many balsa cored boats are sailing offshore and around the world. Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis > On 03/20/2023 7:06 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List > wrote: > > > As we once again consider a boat with cored hull (LF43 or LF38), I am > reminded of why we eventually chose our current 35 four years ago. I couldn't > be sure of the hull integrity without an expensive survey, and at the low > price range we could afford, avoiding a cored hull just removed this concern. > > But as I understand it, most C&Cs over 35' have been cored since the late > 60s or early 70s depending on the model, so that includes a lot of boats, > most of which are probably still sailing, albeit mainly coastal cruising or > racing. Now as we consider the next boat for our long term offshore boat, > things like potential hull damage from a reef or a collision in a remote part > of the world are a concern. > > So I am interested in hearing about experiences with cored C&Cs, problem > which have occurred under both normal use and as a result of damage from > impact, and how effectively they could be repaired. > > I guess an additional question is how C&C's balsa coring compares with > modern day foam coring, either with or without vacuum bagging. I assume foam > has some advantages in not absorbing water. > > Thanks. > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com > S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35 > https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List catching a drone on Malizia
Hey Tom, They must have heard you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPUCNK2Q5fU C > On 03/18/2023 6:07 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I wish they had shown the catch... > > Tom Buscaglia > S/V Alera > 1990 C&C 37+/40 > Vashon WA > P 206.463.9200 > C 305.409.3660 > > > > > > On Mar 18, 2023, at 2:22 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > That is freaking incredible. My resistance to purchasing > a drone is waning. > > > > Bill Coleman > > Erie PA > > > > On Sat, Mar 18, 2023 at 3:05 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > > > > Hi, > > > I've been following the IMOCA foilers every day. The coverage > > > has been spectaculare because each boat has a photo/journalist aboard to > > > cover the experience in video. My favorite is Malizia with Boris > > > Herrmann. The recent drone footage has been amazing of cruising at 25 to > > > 29knots boatspeed, nobody touching a sheet. > > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SZgT-FwyU0 > > > > > > I also follow the GGR race, where the sailors are sailing > > > solo around the world, in older 35 footers without GPS or any computers. > > > A woman named Kirsten is leading as they have rounded the Horn and > > > approach the equator headed back to the finish in France. > > > > > > Chuck S > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 03/18/2023 2:04 PM Dennis C. > > > via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > After racing for 20+ days, the 4 boats are within 20 nm > > > > of each other. > > > > > > > > https://www.theoceanrace.com/en/racing/tracker > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Dennis C. > > > > Touche' 35-1 #83 > > > > Mandeville, LA > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the > > > > Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a > > > > contribution at: > > > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > Thanks for your help. > > > > Stu > > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this > > > > list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. > > > > Make a contribution at: > > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > Thanks for your help. > > > Stu > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the > > > Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a > > > contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site > > and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Who's following Ocean Race?
As you probably know, a drone has cameras/sensors that look to avoid obstacles. When the drone returns to the boat, it gets very wary of approaching the sail, the rig, etc, so it's hard to catch. The drone being used on Malizia has a handle hanging down and they do show the operator on the transom flying the drone toward him, or toward the controller, and he grabs it from underneath, turns it upside down, which stops the rotors and he hands it to a crewman. Watch the video again. C > n 03/18/2023 6:07 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I wish they had shown the catch... > > Tom Buscaglia > S/V Alera > 1990 C&C 37+/40 > Vashon WA > P 206.463.9200 > C 305.409.3660 > > > > > > On Mar 18, 2023, at 2:22 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > That is freaking incredible. My resistance to purchasing > a drone is waning. > > > > Bill Coleman > > Erie PA > > > > On Sat, Mar 18, 2023 at 3:05 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > > > > Hi, > > > I've been following the IMOCA foilers every day. The coverage > > > has been spectaculare because each boat has a photo/journalist aboard to > > > cover the experience in video. My favorite is Malizia with Boris > > > Herrmann. The recent drone footage has been amazing of cruising at 25 to > > > 29knots boatspeed, nobody touching a sheet. > > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SZgT-FwyU0 > > > > > > I also follow the GGR race, where the sailors are sailing > > > solo around the world, in older 35 footers without GPS or any computers. > > > A woman named Kirsten is leading as they have rounded the Horn and > > > approach the equator headed back to the finish in France. > > > > > > Chuck S > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 03/18/2023 2:04 PM Dennis C. > > > via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > After racing for 20+ days, the 4 boats are within 20 nm > > > > of each other. > > > > > > > > https://www.theoceanrace.com/en/racing/tracker > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Dennis C. > > > > Touche' 35-1 #83 > > > > Mandeville, LA > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the > > > > Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a > > > > contribution at: > > > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > Thanks for your help. > > > > Stu > > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this > > > > list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. > > > > Make a contribution at: > > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > Thanks for your help. > > > Stu > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the > > > Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a > > > contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site > > and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Who's following Ocean Race?
Hi, I've been following the IMOCA foilers every day. The coverage has been spectaculare because each boat has a photo/journalist aboard to cover the experience in video. My favorite is Malizia with Boris Herrmann. The recent drone footage has been amazing of cruising at 25 to 29knots boatspeed, nobody touching a sheet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SZgT-FwyU0 I also follow the GGR race, where the sailors are sailing solo around the world, in older 35 footers without GPS or any computers. A woman named Kirsten is leading as they have rounded the Horn and approach the equator headed back to the finish in France. Chuck S > On 03/18/2023 2:04 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > > After racing for 20+ days, the 4 boats are within 20 nm of each other. > > https://www.theoceanrace.com/en/racing/tracker > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Sail costs
Sounds like a good price but six years ago. What loft? C > On 03/18/2023 12:00 PM Danny Haughey via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I paid about $3600, in 2016, for a 135% heavy duty off shore with, > sunbrella sun protection, foam to help with shape when furled, extra > stitching blah blah blah, for a 40 tartan. > > Danny > Currently Boatless > > On Mar 18, 2023 9:54 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > Sail costs: A new light air genoa was quoted at $5200 > for my 36 footer, so I decided instead to have repairs made to my old sails. > They repaired my #2 for $700. They will alter my #3 for a little more. > They are removing horizontal battens and installing vertical battens, and > adding UV, so it can be furled. I've chosen to use Chesapeake Sailmakers > because they are service oriented, came out and measured my rig before I > spent any money, and they took time to evaluate my sails and offer options. > > > > Wonder what others are paying for new sails and/or repairs. > > > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
