Stus-List Fwd: Incision 1981 36 centre board.
Ok switching gears, does anyone want the two binder original owners manual for a 1981 C&C 36?It’s yours for the cost of postage from Ontario. Len Mitchell Sent from my iPad Begin forwarded message: > From: Len Mitchell > Date: May 23, 2021 at 10:04:28 PM EDT > To: CNC List > Subject: Incision 1981 36 centre board. > > Does anyone know the whereabouts of a 1981 C&C 36 KCB hull number 216? It > was called Incision and was Alaska Blue. I have the build file and original > owners manual. > Len Mitchell > > Sent from my iPad Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Incision 1981 36 centre board.
Does anyone know the whereabouts of a 1981 C&C 36 KCB hull number 216? It was called Incision and was Alaska Blue. I have the build file and original owners manual. Len Mitchell Sent from my iPad Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: 3HM35F oil capacity puzzle
Tom, we have the same experience 4-4.5 quarts max oil change. Ours is a universal 35 and it’s on the same angle. Considering we only use a half tank of diesel a year I can live with a short oil change. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List CnC44 Mast Height for Bridge Clearance
Friends with a Dufour 41 used a large bag they filled with water to heel their boat. It was a great solution because they could roll up and store the bag between uses. Youtube has quite a few videos if you need to see it done. Sounds like fun. Len Sent from my iPad Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Gmail filter now new member
San, just create a new email to Stu’s list. Use a subject. Trim messages so you don’t have a pile of extra data. Best if you put your name, boat model and location so we have what we need to help you. If you want to post pics you need to use a link and a site like dropbox. Welcome to the list! Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Emergency tiller on a 37
I guess I should correct this! but auto will only help if you have an auto pilot connected to your quadrant not the wheel! Len Sent from my iPad Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Emergency tiller on a 37
John, that looks like great leverage. I applaud you for testing it before you need it. Every C&C will be a little different. Mine is short and almost impossible to use in moderate wind without a winch. It’s worth trying before shit happens. Auto helm is your friend if something goes bad FYI. Len. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Emergency tiller on a 37
I have needed our emergency tiller in a squall before. Long story short, try it before you need it. Some boats need the wheel removed and some need you to use the primary winches. Spare steering cables are gold in a remote area. Len Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be free
I have a split backstay and dual hydraulic adjusters. I rebuilt both a couple years ago for about $26 in parts. Rebuilding it is nothing to be afraid of. Anything you need can be ordered from Hercules hydraulics through a hydraulics shop if necessary. A manual hydraulic adjuster is a pretty simple device. What you will find are an O ring or O rings and a seal usually with a sweep on the rod. I have no hydraulic experience or special tools but found it easy to work on. As they say: it’s not rocket science! Safety note: apparently hydraulic boom vangs are spring loaded! Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Fwd: Thru-hull removal
I think I would get a long blade in my sawzall and put a couple cuts in it from the outside or put a 18 or 24 inch pipe wrench on it inside and give it a twist or both. Good luck. Len Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List List from Richard, Now 37+ holding tank
Richard, I will send you pictures and a description of what you are facing to your email. It’s a big job but very possible. I haven’t heard of anyone else having to do this job and I believe most 37/40s have a poly tank rather than aluminum. I took it one step farther and converted the port side water tank to a holding tank for storage in the Great Lakes. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List 40 or 41?
Joe, Are you going to need a centre board keel? What about air draft, is that a factor? Going south and need tankage? Edd may have exactly what you need and you could eBay all the Star Trek action figures you find under the cushions! If you keep all the 7 of 9 Jeri Ryan ones we would understand! All kidding aside the 37/40 is a more modern layout than the 40 & 41 but there are exceptions. The 41 still catches my eye every time I see one, I just can’t help it! Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Remote vhf stereo speakers
Raymarine made a wired waterproof mono remote speaker with a volume control (as do many others). It’s about 4x4 inches. I have one close to the helm and it works great. It would be awful to have to choose between music and vhf! Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List C&C 40 rigging
I would be interested to know if salt vs fresh water changes the life span of stainless rigging and I suspect it does. My rig looks and functions like new but it has always been in fresh water. Additionally, boats are out of the water 6 months a year in the north.I had a 1981 C&C 36KCB that was dismasted due to the threads on the backstay bolt failing. It’s the double ended bolt. Someone told me it was made of antimony but I have no way of confirming that. I should write something about the dismasting because it didn’t play out as expected or as described by others. As long as the fittings aren’t seized and the hardware looks good inspect it, do a dye test on the fittings and worry about something else. Having had an issue with the backstay bolt replace it if there is any question! Mine was worn more than I knew. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List 12 volt tv
I am replacing a 10 year + Sharp Aquious flat screen tv with a laptop or a large tablet. The smallest television I can buy is too big. We use a 1TB Western Digital media player to watch movies but there are plenty of options now, you can use a portable hard drive, flash drives or even SD cards. If you have internet you can likely stream your home cable too. Josh has it figured out by charging underway or in advance. You can also watch something in the cockpit if conditions permit. Laptops will let you watch a couple hours without connecting to power if your battery is strong. Check to see if you can get reception with a portable digital antenna, I can’t so a tv isn’t my first choice. Look at the power draw to help you decide. If you have to buy a laptop look at a convertible style, the keyboard folds under like a tablet. 62 days until launch! Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Forestay tension
Agree the backstay tensions the forestay but you want to set your mast rake using forestay length and appropriate blocking at the mast base of course. Rake should be specified in your manual. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Smelly bilge water
Dave, I installed a garboard plug and the bilge is bone dry all winter on the hard. I am not sure you haul out in CT. But that’s a northern option. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Asymmetrical Spinnaker outside jibe
Chuck, the owners manual lists spinnaker sheets for a 37/40 as 7/16x65 feet. Not sure what length mine are but 65 may be a bit short for an outside gybe. It may be sized for a symmetrical spinnaker. I think I would add the foot dimension of your sail or at least consider it if you measure. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Bilge monitor
I am certain my bilge pump switch is more reliable than the wifi. In the winter I have a garboard plug so it’s not an issue then. I wanted to be able to monitor systems from anywhere and I have wifi. I get a little rain water in the bilge through the mast but it’s not usually a problem, cold beer isn’t a necessity either but it’s nice, I have a solar panel so battery power isn’t usually an issue either. And I live 20 minutes away from the boat. Do I need it? No. Would I use it? Yes absolutely! Realistically I can monitor our home from my cell phone too, I just enjoy the relatively inexpensive convenience and peace of mind. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadOn Mar 2, 2021, at 3:58 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:All this depends on a reliable WIFI connection, right? Do you think your bilge pump switch, for example, is more or less reliable than your onboard WIFI connection?BobBob Boyers/v Rainy DaysC&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)blog: dainyrays.blogspot.comemail: dainyr...@icloud.comOn Mar 2, 2021, at 1:43 PM, Riley Anderson via CnC-List wrote:Len, I'm installing a Victron Cerbo GX. It can do everything you're asking and will transmit data remotely to the Victron VRM app/website. It needs an internet connection. Either wifi or hardwired. Victron also sells a GSM device with a SIM card (~$12/month) if you don't want to rely on marina wifi.Here is the Victron Cerbo GX: https://amzn.to/2OfIPxc and technical data.It can do a lot. Just depends on how fancy you want to get. You can email me if you have more questions. You can also build your own with a raspberry pi and the open-source Venus OS from Victron. It's the same software they use on the Cerbo but you'll have to be pretty software savvy to make it do everything you want. Here is a link to the Venus OS GitHub page: https://github.com/victronenergy/venus/wikiHope this helps,CheersRileyOn Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 11:31 AM Len Mitchell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:With all this talk about bilge pumps I am looking at a way to monitor the boat when I am not there. Has anyone bought or built a monitor? It looks possible with a Raspberry Pi computer. I would like to monitor battery bank voltage, bilge pump cycles or bilge water level and refrigerator temperature. You could go farther and monitor tank levels or install a cctv camera too. I am interested in any experience on this. I am not opposed to using an old laptop, iPad or tablet if that is more robust. https://medium.com/initial-state/how-to-monitor-your-boat-during-the-winter-months-d89f7d76a88dLen MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu-- Fair winds and following seas,Charlotte Freeland & Riley AndersonSV Freight TrainMiddletown, CT USA Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Bilge monitor
With all this talk about bilge pumps I am looking at a way to monitor the boat when I am not there. Has anyone bought or built a monitor? It looks possible with a Raspberry Pi computer. I would like to monitor battery bank voltage, bilge pump cycles or bilge water level and refrigerator temperature. You could go farther and monitor tank levels or install a cctv camera too. I am interested in any experience on this. I am not opposed to using an old laptop, iPad or tablet if that is more robust. https://medium.com/initial-state/how-to-monitor-your-boat-during-the-winter-months-d89f7d76a88dLen MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: warped companionway sliding hatch
Just keep in mind acrylic is pretty inexpensive to buy and easy to find in all shades, shapes and sizes. I like a dark bronze to keep the heat out. I use regular wood shop tools to shape it like a table saw with a sharp carbide blade, a router table and pattern bit to make exact copies of ports and hatches just using double sided tape. The sheets come adhesive paper coated so scratching is less likely. Any rough or irregular edges can be sanded. Lexan works too but it scratches a little easier once installed. I have no intention of putting up with my warped sliding hatch come spring. It’s just too easy to swap out and I have a half sheet in my inventory. Just search plastics in your area to find a supplier. Toronto for example, has a few choices. Plasticworld.ca was where I got my last sheet of bronze acrylic. If you can shape a piece of plywood that size you certainly can cut your own acrylic! Just contact me if I can help at all. It’s not a project to shy away from. I fabricated the 3/8 thick side lights on Crazy Legs this summer and there are two ~8 foot and two ~4 foot port lights installed with VHB tape and Dow Corning 795. I just wish I did it sooner! Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: warped companionway sliding hatch
David, My slider is warped too and it has nothing to do with a solar panel on top. Mine sits under a dodger all summer. I believe the interior temperature of the boat when unattended is the cause but who knows. It’s an easy fix and I really like Chuck’s solution. I plan on using that Chuck. Thanks! Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Rigging bolt rope main loose footed?
Bruce, I used the 1989 original main in the stack pack until this fall when we hauled out.My new loose footed main arrives in May! I would ask your sail maker if it could be made loose footed if the bolt rope doesn’t work in your stack pack. It should be easy enough. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: diver frustration
Joe, Never tempt fate by saying “what’s winter”! That was you wasn’t it? Len Sent from my mobile device. > On Nov 27, 2020, at 12:16 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I guess I should have known, but the local diving company shut down for the > winter. I haven’t been able to do much sailing lately for various reasons and > now my prop is fouled. Normally I would have realized this a month ago L > I think the water now is in the 50s, not looking forward to the cleaning job. > Maybe at least the jellyfish are gone, I don’t think they like the cold. I > guess I should have sympathy for people with 50 something water in the summer! > > Joe > Coquina > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Solar power in ACR environment
Thanks Joe, I was trying to keep it simple. I guess I should have asked if the house bank increased in voltage would it activate the ACR? My “ACR” is not made by Blue Sea, it’s made by Heart or Xantrex and I didn’t want to assume Blue Sea. Technically they are actually a contactor but they do call them a relay! (That’s why I prefer the Blue Sea ACR over the Xantrex Echo Charger, contactor vs relay.) Contactors are generally designed to carry higher amps than relays. 100 years ago I selected relays and built contactors to suit different voltages loads and custom applications. The solution will be simple but we need all the pertinent details. There are just too many reasons the starting battery could be at 90%. Len Sent from my iPad > On Nov 24, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List > wrote: > > The ACR is a relay, not a diode. It conducts current either way. > What is variable is which battery it senses to make decisions. It could be > house, start, or both of them. All it does is connect at X voltage and > disconnect at Y voltage. X is probably about 13.8 and Y is probably about > 13.4 or so. > > > Joe Della Barba > Coquina > C&C 35 MK I > > > From: Len Mitchell > Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 10:49 AM > To: Stus-List > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Solar power in ACR environment > > If the house bank is getting charged it could just be about amp hours in and > amp hours out too! What size is the solar panel? Is there any load on the > house bank like refrigeration etc? Is the solar panel mounted in > uninterrupted sun? Is the panel performing, how many amps at peak? Has it > been cloudy? Does the ACR connect in both directions? What’s the age and > condition of the starting battery? The sun obviously isn’t as strong this > time of year either! My 250 watt panel needs blue sky all day after September > just to keep up but I am north too. > > Len Mitchell > S/V Crazy Legs > 1989 C&C 37+ > Midland On. > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to > this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Solar power in ACR environment
If the house bank is getting charged it could just be about amp hours in and amp hours out too! What size is the solar panel? Is there any load on the house bank like refrigeration etc? Is the solar panel mounted in uninterrupted sun? Is the panel performing, how many amps at peak? Has it been cloudy? Does the ACR connect in both directions? What’s the age and condition of the starting battery? The sun obviously isn’t as strong this time of year either! My 250 watt panel needs blue sky all day after September just to keep up but I am north too. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Draining coolant
David, that drain point isn’t as bad as the picture shows. I believe it’s the lowest and best point to drain from. It’s been a couple years since I changed mine but it wasn’t too bad as I recall but I have pretty good access in the 37+. If you use any other place you may not get enough coolant out. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 89 C&C 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Solar panel for battery charging.
I leave my solar panel hooked up all year and as long as I keep the wet cells wet I actually get long battery life too. My last batteries lasted 9 years. Ymmv. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Boat cover question
Dean, I had a cover on our C&C 36 and have a cover on our 37+ made by Topshop in the Kingston/Quinte area. The ribs are aluminum conduit. I use zip ties to keep them in place with the snow load on the life lines and toe rail. The ribs can twist with the weight of heavy snow. They are built to allow water drainage but may need another set of ribs if you get pooling. On the 36 I had to use a piece of rope to bridge a gap in the conduit. You will need to monitor and see how it is. Best if the cover is tightly fastened from below. The 37+ had a new canvas last year and sheds water and snow very well. My advice is to check it often until you have a level of comfort and deal with any pooling. The new cover is a mast up version and fits well. I installed a garboard plug on the 37+ and have less to worry about. Good luck with yours. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my iPad October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: leaky head intake
Peter, No it’s not. I wouldn’t use 5200 for any reason. It’s pretty much permanent. You are better to fix it right than bandaid it anyway. Carefully find out what is actually leaking and you will have the solution. If it’s the barb fitting or hose just replace one or both and double ss clamp it. 5200 may seal it but you will likely regret using it. Len October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Engine oil drain hose
I also have an M30 with the same hose set up and the same engine angle. If I use that hose I can only remove 3 quarts of oil. The drain hose is on the high side of the oil pan! If I use the oil fill and a fluid vacuum I can get 4 quarts out. Either way it never gets completely drained. I change the oil every fall and seldom use a full tank of fuel in a season. If nothing else I would like to be able to monitor the base level of my oil before it becomes acidic so I don’t recycle the oil years too soon. It just seems like a waste but changing often is better than not changing oil at all. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Two questions
Matt, What model and year is your boat? Someone has probably already crossed that bridge and may have pictures to help you. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On Sent from my iPad > On Oct 7, 2020, at 11:38 AM, Matthew wrote: > > > Listers: > > I have two unrelated questions: > > One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small windows down > below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever you call it). > The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the cabin can be > screwed into. There is no coring around the windows, however; just > fiberglass (about ¼” thick). Any thoughts on how best to attach the planking > to the inside fiberglass? I suppose I could epoxy the planking in place, but > this seems like overkill and a lot of work. > > A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the deck around > the mast. I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without going crazy > and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed rope clutches. > To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height, I will need to > make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope clutch). I could > use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which does not; or something > else that does not require maintenance. Any suggestions? > > Thanks in advance. > > Matt > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Universal diesel
Compression fittings aren’t horrible if they were installed correctly with brass or plastic inserts to support the flexible hose. The vacuum on that fuel line is relatively low, less than 8 lbs, so they would have to be snug. The fittings on the tank valve are likely the same. If it takes you more than 15 minutes to find and fix the air leak its not expensive to just replace all the fuel lines and fittings! Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Universal diesel
Bo, you have an air leak between the fuel lift pump intake and the fuel. Check the fittings and hose. The only other possibility is high in the fuel pick up assembly. As a side note, is the reinforced clear hose rated for fuel? Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Re: Universal diesel
Bo, a couple of things. I believe maximum heel with the engine running is 15? degrees. I and that’s about oil circulation. How full was your fuel tank? Did you bleed it using the injector pump valve? There should be no air unless your fuel system has a leak. Some times the cap on the primary filter gets warped and allows air in. Is your lift pump clicking (working)? It sounds like a simple air leak in the fuel line to me. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On W/Universal M35. Sent from my mobile device. > On Oct 4, 2020, at 5:24 PM, General Gao wrote: > > > Hi everyone, > > Again, looking for advice from experienced sailors. > > Today on my trip, my Diesel engine stopped frequently. The last time it > stopped by itself was because air in the fuel line. I did do some more than > “usual” heeling today but the engine ran about 2 hours after that without > issue before this fuel line issue started. I checked the bleed valve, could > see that after a few seconds the fuel came out, so there was air. The problem > was that even after this, the engine still stopped working due to fuel supply > issue like every 5-30 minutes randomly. Each time I did the bleeding there > was air. > > How can this be? Where should I look? > > Thank you in advance. > > Bo > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Propane Stove not staying lit
Edd, What Josh said but try cleaning them first with a small brush. Something like an old tooth brush. The orifice is under the burner cap and should be clean and grease free too. They need direct flame contact and no carbon. They generate millivolts to prove there is a flame. You can get a millivolt tester but they are hardish to find and easier to just replace the flame sensor. It’s really unlikely two will go bad at the same time so maybe check the electrical connection to the valve too if cleaning them doesn’t work. If the air mix isn’t correct or the opening is dirty you will get carbon deposits so the flame should be blue not orange once the burner is hot. Regards, Len Mitchell Crazy Legs Midland On 1989 37+ Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Stanchion base.
Holland Marine is the place to go and they will mail it to you if necessary. Peter’s daughter and I think it’s his son are pretty knowledgeable. I had one eye opening experience and now I just say someone told me you can solve ANY boat problem. and now he treats me very well. The crusty outside has an ego. Some fellow boaters refuse to buy from him but he will surprise you with what he has in inventory and the prices are good. We should not have to do that but the difference is noticeable. Once you find common ground he will bend over backwards to help you and I speak from experience. Like Dave says he is quite a character just like his dad. Don’t give up! Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Re: HTML/XML code in messages
Yes I had Stu change me to individual email rather than The digest version because the self serve option is gone. It’s all good now. Len Sent from my mobile device. > On Sep 23, 2020, at 11:40 AM, Dreuge wrote: > > Hi, > > Has anyone found a solution to eliminate the html/xml code that is now coming > in on some digest messages? I am finding most of these messages are > unreadable. > > > > > > - > Paul E. > 1981 C&C Landfall 38 > S/V Johanna Rose > Fort Walton Beach, FL > > http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Re: Raymarine ST60+ Speed
Jeff, mine is temperamental and not always accurate. Usually it’s dirt or growth on the paddle wheel. I would check the electrical connection and don’t be afraid to remove the wheel, it will have a check valve on it so you shouldn’t get too much water but you will get some. There should be a plug too I keep mine in the bilge beside the transducer. Then you can take your time. Just remember to install the wheel with the arrow forward. Len Sent from my mobile device. > On Sep 23, 2020, at 11:35 AM, Jeffrey Brideau wrote: > > > We've got an Autohelm package on the boat we purchased in August with ST60+ > instruments. The speed sensor reported 0KTS during survey. I cleaned the > paddle and it turned free during survey haulout and the instrument worked > fine for several weeks after that. Then, the speed returned to 0KTS but the > temperature read fine. I casually brushed the paddle while in the water (not > brave enough to pull it out while floating yet, want to try in on the hard > first. No idea when the last time this was done) and it was no help. Last > weekend the temperature suddenly doubled reporting about 135F seawater. I > lifted the instrument and measured resistance across what appears to be a 10k > thermistor and it correlated well to a 10k chart suggesting water temp at the > marina was near the expected value. > > Am I jumping the gun to assume the display has gone bad given the temperature > sensor seems like it is working or should I check something else? > > Thanks, > Jeff > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Electric fuel pump question
For what its worth, the cylinder style pumps from Facet have a screen filter in the bottom. Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area
Dave, I equipped my last two boats with solar panels. Both had refrigeration and 4-6 volt golf cart batteries for the additional amp hours. I switched 99% of my lighting to LED and have an autopilot, inverter and chart plotter. I ran a 150 watt rigid panel on the first boat and 250 watt rigid panel on the current boat. I do not limit my use of power because I don’t have to. I will use the engine to charge on the second day of rain and in late September. Other than that it works very well. My load share relay usually has a green share light by my morning coffee. I didn’t find 150 watts as good as 250 watts but it depends on how much power you use. One more thing I should mention, I leave my batteries on board and solar panel hooked up all year and my battery bank lasts 9-10 years. I would recommend at least 200 watts and 250 is plenty for Georgian Bay. YMMV. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 89 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Garboard drain
Nate, I installed a drain last year. I used magnets too and drilled from outside. I also used a door drill kit and a drummel tool and installed the drain flush with the hull and faired it with epoxy. If you need pics or more information pm me. You can buy flush nylon plugs by sea dog? and don’t need to use the big awkward bronze plugs unless you want to. It’s peace of mind being on the hard for 6 months. My boat has never been dryer over the winter. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 89 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Amenities
Lewis, If you cruise or spend most of your time away from the dock. I would focus on adding the things to support that mindset. Refrigeration vs ice allows you to not have to get ice somewhere on a long cruise fwiw we mostly keep ice cubes in our freezer box. Stove with oven vs BBQ gives you cooking choices in the rain or spring and fall when it gets cooler inside. Some people never use the oven but it sure is nice when you do on a cool rainy day on the hook. We have a microwave and an inverter but seldom use either. I added 25 gallons of holding tank space (Great Lakes) to stay out longer and a solar panel too. All you have to do is look at why you return to a dock and it becomes clear. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Solar panels in ACR environment
Charlie, I like the house bank charge priority or wherever your automatic bilge pump or refrigerator is connected, whatever you find most important while you are away from the boat. Your post says small solar panel and a 50 amp fuse. Those two don’t match! If you over size the fuse the wire becomes the fuse if you see where I am going. The fuse needs to be appropriate for the output of the solar panel and the wire large enough to carry the current the distance so the fuse blows if there is a short rather than the wire lights up like a resistance heater. For example a 250 watt solar panel (not small) is fused at 20 or 25 amps. Check the output of the panel you buy and size the fuse then wire for the length of wire. If you have room a bigger panel is better than small depending on what you want it to do. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Lifting an outboard
Rock, in a pinch I have used the main halyard for my 76lb 15hp 2 stoke but it’s a 2 person job then, one on the winch. A 5hp 2 stroke is easy! If you aren’t sure tie a safety rope onto the motor, they sink fast. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Unidentified clunk when motoring - 1995 C&C 37/40+
Bruce, did you have Auto running? In the right conditions my Autopilot ram will clunk and it’s mounted below the propane locker. Calm conditions medium throttle with the stereo off. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Recognizing that prettiest is subjective and that I am partial to the 37/40, I have always loved the lines of a C&C 41 with the C&C 39 a close second. Simply beautiful boats! Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Fuel lift pump
Joe, I like the remote fuel pressure gauge! That looks like aviation or race car technology. Tom is trying to find out why he can’t get that last 15 gallons of fuel. I believe Josh has the same Yanmar and believe he posted his vacuum numbers so there is something to compare to. He can also shut off the fuel valve when running the engine and get a sense of what vacuum the fuel pump is drawing. If it won’t hold vacuum maybe there is an air leak somewhere. If the pump won’t make 1 inch of mercury he knows it’s probably a pump problem. That’s all I was trying to suggest before he gets into a new pump. And as a bonus for around 20$ he will also have a primary fuel filter monitor. Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Fuel lift pump
Tom, it’s your boat and wallet but an inexpensive vacuum gauge will tell the tale. I would hate to buy an expensive Yanmar pump and find out it’s something more simple unless you want a spare pump anyway. They are available on amazon or eBay and maybe 20$ https://www.generalfilters.com/products/general-fuel-oil-products/garber-filters/accessories/Filter-Restrictor-Indicator-Gauge_PT111.html Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Fuel polisher/fuel vacuum gauge
Thanks Josh you are right the gauge measure inches of mercury not atmospheres.( .489 vs 14.7 lbs) I did an experiment this morning and our Universal M35 uses an electric fuel pump made by Facet that runs at 6-8 psi. The gauge running shows 1 inch of mercury or just around .5 lbs and it will generate at least 7 inches of mercury vacuum with the fuel valve shut off or about 3.5 pounds of vacuum. I did not take it further into vacuum because that’s all I wanted to know. If the vacuum reads more than 1 inch of mercury there is a restriction somewhere, dirty primary fuel filter etc. Something else to consider, a Facet fuel pump has a screen filter in the bottom if it’s not pulling fuel, although the primary is supposed to catch any contamination first. Let us know how you make out Tom! Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List New-guy C&C 40 Shopping questions
Welcome Jeff, Looks like you are getting lots of replies. Folks have been sailing with a family of 4 in all sizes of boats. We went 25-36-40 and bigger is more comfortable for sure. My advice would be buy a C&C! Best condition, newest and most comfortable you can afford. You can figure out the cost to keep a boat in your area and if you are a DIY guy add 3-5 K per year for stuff. If you aren’t a DIY guy, triple that! Taken care of your boat will last for generations, just ask Joe. Whatever you do use a surveyor when you think you have the right boat. Good luck finding the right boat for your family, it’s a fun journey. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Fuel polisher
Tom, I think you have an issue with fuel lift. Either there is a hole in the fuel pick up at the 15 gallon gallon level in your tank or the lift pump for some reason isn’t able to pull fuel all the way from the bottom of the tank. If you had crud and your filters were getting clogged a fuel polisher would help that but there must be other issues. I would install a 25$ vacuum gauge and see what the pump is pulling. I forget which engine you have but if the fuel pick up line is good it’s maybe pump related. Mine is a universal and the pump is pretty inexpensive, available and easy to swap out. The electric lift pump on mine pulls 1 atmosphere of vacuum and Josh’s yanmar pulls 3 or 4 if memory serves. The gauge I used is made for an oil furnace filter so it’s pretty common. The other benefit to the gauge is you can tell when your filter needs to be changed by an increase in vacuum. Either way a fuel polish won’t hurt but it probably won’t help your issue. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Refrigerator/freezer 37/40
Has anyone modified their refrigerator to have a bigger freezer section? I have the original coated steel shelving with a retrofit freezer box and I am considering dividing the fridge to have a bigger freezer. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Propane connector
The thought process behind not using Teflon tape on natural gas or propane was that if a piece of tape was cut off by pipe threads it would end up in a gas orifice downstream and block a burner or alter a pressure regulator. Now to qualify that statement, it’s from trade school 100 years ago and north of the 49th. It may be the right thing to do elsewhere. Ymmv. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Propane connection
David, there is not supposed to be Teflon tape used on any propane lines. There should be an O ring on the left hand thread male connector that seals the tapered seat. With the corrosion on your connector I would suggest you go to a modern right hand thread connector like your BBQ tank or check for an O ring in the groove Buy some liquid pipe thread Sealant suitable for propane if you change the connector. When you are done using the tank you should shut it off and note the pressure in your system. It should not be empty when you go to open the tank next time it should be close to the same. The gauge is meant for you to do a pressure test every time you use the tank. If you suspect a leak use water with a little dish soap to wet the joints until you find that leak. If there is a leak it will generate bubbles. Propane detectors are great for peace of mind. Having a leaky propane system is like sailing a bomb. If you aren’t 100% positive, a licensed gas tech won’t cost you too much to check it out. Better safe than sorry. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List 2020 Rendezvous
Bob, I think cancelling the 2020 Mid Atlantic rendezvous is the right thing to do. Better now that at the last minute. It’s just not worth the risk. We attend from Ontario and I doubt the border will even be open by October. We are definitely going to miss it and the great friends we have made but the world has changed and we need to do what is necessary. Maybe plan to host in Baltimore in 2021? I am sure everyone gets it and everyone should understand your position. We are looking forward to the next rendezvous whenever and wherever it is!! Stay healthy. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List 37/40 forward sink drain valve
Bruce, I would cut a 6 inch marine access cover in the cabinetry under the sink before I drained the sink into the bilge. I have the same battery area you do and I had to install an in-line valve under the sink, (I had water in the sink when heeled over at hull speed). Your post has made me rethink it, thanks for that! I have ignored the valve location although I regularly lube and exercise the valve it could be a lot easier to access. It’s your boat but I like a clean dry bilge when possible and a mix of spit and toothpaste doesn’t do it for me. Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Lewmar Hatches
Ken, thanks, HMP in Toronto was my first stop. They have a good selection of C&C parts and coincidently they were the ones I used for the crazy high trim kit quote and I trust they don’t mark parts up that far. It’s a Lewmar parts pricing issue. I found a plastic 37+ holding tank at HMP when my aluminum tank was a problem so I have faith they know C&Cs and even the obscure parts. HMP had a Lewmar roller screen and trim kit in stock too but it was for the wrong hatch. Josh suggested I try a piece of plastic soda bottle under the rubber hinge piece to shim it up and I may try that option just for fun first, it’s worth a try. I still have a kit for each size ocean hatch and don’t really want to install them until I have exhausted the options. Len Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Lewmar Hatches
I sent email to Lewmar support about getting some spares. I was looking for the thin plastic trim kit for an Ocean 70 and it retails for 475$ cdn! That is an incredible cost for what it is IMHO. I also asked about the roll stop hinge kits. They are not available any longer. I asked if they would provide the dimensional drawings for the repair kits. The answer was “sorry no, it is intellectual property”. I can use the old plastic trim piece as a mould to make a new part with fibreglass if necessary. If anyone has a suggestion on replicating the hinge kit parts using 3D printing, let me know, I have one new kit of each size left in the Crazy Legs inventory and I need to use it soon. Len Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Lewmar Hatches
I sent email to Lewmar support about getting some spares. I was looking for the thin plastic trim kit for an Ocean 70 and it retails for 475$ cdn! That is an incredible cost for what it is IMHO. I also asked about the roll stop hinge kits. They are not available any longer. I asked if they would provide the dimensional drawings for the repair kits. The answer was “sorry no, it is intellectual property”. I can use the old plastic trim piece as a mould to make a new part with fibreglass if necessary. If anyone has a suggestion on replicating the hinge kit parts using 3D printing, let me know, I have one new kit of each size left in the Crazy Legs inventory and I need to use it soon. Len Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Installing plastic anchors in fibreglass
Chuck, be sure and let us know how it works. I am changing the plexi glass in the sea hood and slider next and the white silicone had me concerned that it was a bigger job than I thought. I wondered why it was there and core explains it. I would also over drill and use unthickened epoxy then thickened. And I may as well fix it as I go. I haven’t had my trim piece off yet but wonder if it could be sealed up using white epoxy or painted epoxy rather than covered with white silicone. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List 37/40 wine storage
Rob, love your design, great job! Wine storage is maybe the only area that needs improvement! Just another first world problem! We have been suffering so long too. Insert sarcastic grin here! X Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Safety Gear / First Aid / Flares
Edd, I use the hidden cupboard in the starboard side seating in front of the HWT. The first aid kit is over the V berth vanity and V berth sink. If you cut yourself that sink is handy for repairs! Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List 37+ cruise speed
I run at 2200 rpms and get 6.5 knots. That’s where she is smooth but working a little. It feels like the sweet spot. She will get 7+ if I add throttle but vibrates more and makes more noise. Every 37+ could be a little different depending on drive train. Universal M35 and a 2 blade max prop at 22 degrees here with a slippery VC17 bottom and zero barnacles in fresh water. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Batteries etc.
Charlie, I will add to Edd’s post. I have a different system and would suggest you find the closest place to connect to power. Battery, battery switch, ACR or other. You need to make sure the connection is solid, fused and that the wire is appropriately sized. I am running a power share relay/monitor system of 90s vintage that works like an ACR. I have a 250 watt panel on Davits. I never plug into shore power and have been running solar in two boats for more than 20 years without any problems. I have 4 deep cycle golf cart batteries and a 12 volt inverter only battery, (no dedicated start battery). The ice box fridge freezer runs May to September. There is probably a “best” location to connect but this works for me worry free. My battery bank is in the share mode before I make morning coffee unless it’s raining of course. There is an added bonus that batteries seem to last many years this way and mine are connected 24/7/365. As a side note anyone doing any wiring on a boat should also consider fusing the positive battery leads. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Batteries etc.
Charlie, I will add to Edd’s post. I have a different system and would suggest you find the closest place to connect to power. Battery, battery switch, ACR or other. You need to make sure the connection is solid, fused and that the wire is appropriately sized. I am running a power share relay/monitor system of 90s vintage that works like an ACR. I have a 250 watt panel on Davits. I never plug into shore power and have been running solar in two boats for more than 20 years without any problems. I have 4 deep cycle golf cart batteries and a 12 volt inverter only battery, (no dedicated start battery). The ice box fridge freezer runs May to September. There is probably a “best” location to connect but this works for me worry free. My battery bank is in the share mode before I make morning coffee unless it’s raining of course. There is an added bonus that batteries seem to last many years this way and mine are connected 24/7/365. As a side note anyone doing any wiring on a boat should also consider fusing the positive battery leads. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Forward hatch in a 30-2
I replied to Jim via PM with a page to help identify his hatch. I have one hinge left in my inventory but I also need it for an ocean 20 hatch. My question is this for you techies: can my hinge be replicated on a 3D printer? And if so what’s involved? Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List 37/40 hatch sizes.
Edd, what do you need to know. Lewmar 1x ocean 70 and 4x ocean 20. I am on the boat but can measure hatches or send you the specs for them. I have covers on the 70 and 2 20s. They are snap domed onto the aluminum frames. If you need a pic let me know and I will PM send it. It really makes a difference in the hot Ontario sun. Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List 37/40 wine storage
Chris, we do use the table but not for wine. Single malt doesn’t mind the heat. I am considering building something under the V. I am looking for storage for probably 12 bottles. I was just looking for ideas because someone has already done it I am sure! Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List 37/40 wine storage
Has anyone come up with an innovative solution for wine storage on a 37/40? It would be nice to have enough room in the coolish bilge but there isn’t room. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Cutlass bearing tool
Hi Joel, Welcome! You can find a few home built tools on YouTube or by searching online. Removing the bearing is easier with the shaft out imho. I believe my tool is a piece of 3/8 threaded rod and nuts with large flat washers and a 1/2 inch socket the appropriate size. There is also be a piece of pipe to press the bearing into. It’s an inexpensive tool to build. The challenge will be removing the coupling and shaft. The bearing is pretty easy. I didn’t have the patience to build a shaft on bearing removal tool but they are out there. Some marinas have a hydraulic shaft on kit but it looks expensive for a boat owner to purchase. If you give your location someone will be able to help direct you to a bearing source in your area. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Window epoxy
I am in the process of redoing my plexiglass ports, it’s the second boat I have done and the second time was way easier. If you are trying to remove the glass, try a small thin flexible scraper wherever the glass is loose and separate the glass from the plexus epoxy by pulling the scraper around the outside (from the outside). If you are trying to remove the epoxy, try heating the plexus with a heat gun until it starts to brown and bubble a bit and use a stiff sharp scraper, 95% will come off without damaging the gel coat underneath. After that a small triangle shaped sander will get the rest of the old glue off. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs C&C37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Mast wedges
Wedges can be easily made out of oak or a similar hard wood. I leave a lip on top so they don’t fall inside the boat and stay where you put them. Any wood shop can make them. I also use oak shims in a fat T pattern to keep the mast base in the appropriate spot at the bottom and help the mast keep the correct rake. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs C&C37+ Midland On Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Ground 37/40
Bruce, I doubt you will see two grounded the same but my shunt is as high as possible in the bilge at the bottom of the companionway steps beside the engine intake thru hull. You may just have to follow your wires. Crazy Legs is a 1989 and has an original link battery monitor with a charger inverter and a load share contactor. I would like to modernize my wiring but I am reluctant to change anything that works so well. Len Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Autopilot mounting 37/40
Ken, if it’s not too much trouble I would appreciate a pic from the inside of the lazarette. This is not for Crazy Legs, I shared pics of our factory installation a while back. Ours is connected to the rudder post. I am helping a boat buddy and his boat will not work with the rudder post install but the quadrant is exposed like a 37/40. It’s pretty much exactly like Kens. Ken having a rubber gasket is one of reasons I asked this group. Thank you! Len Mitchell Crazy Legs Midland On Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Auto pilot mounting 37/40
Does anyone have pictures of their Auto Pilot linear drive installation to the quadrant? So mounted in the port side lazarette. I have below deck pics. TIA Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shaft coupling removal
John, I have a puller too but was able to generate more force using the socket and bolts but to be honest my puller is a pretty low quality princess auto tool. I may have tapped the coupling with a small hammer when I had some pressure on it too. Len Sent from my iPad > On May 19, 2020, at 9:02 PM, John Christopher wrote: > > Wouldn’t a pulled work just the same? > > > /John > >>> On May 19, 2020, at 8:25 PM, Len Mitchell wrote: >>> >> John, I had to use a socket on the end of the prop shaft and pressed the >> coupling off using longer bolts and nuts of the same size. Some folks have >> actually cut theirs but with 2$ worth of bolts you can press it off quite >> easily if there is enough room. Check your cutlass bearing if you are going >> that far! >> Len Mitchell >> Crazy Legs >> 1989 37+ >> Midland On. >> Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Shaft coupling removal
John, I had to use a socket on the end of the prop shaft and pressed the coupling off using longer bolts and nuts of the same size. Some folks have actually cut theirs but with 2$ worth of bolts you can press it off quite easily if there is enough room. Check your cutlass bearing if you are going that far! Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Water fill hose question
When replacing the original ribbed hose or even drain hose I use the reinforced clear vinyl beverage hose. It’s strong, flexible enough and will be easier to source too. Len Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Masthead sheave
Tim, I had a 1981 C&C 36KCB a decade ago and I believe Klacko Marine in Ontario originally provided that spar. If Dan is still working he will likely be able to answer any question about it. If not his son is very knowledgeable too. I believe there is Klacko marine and Klacko spars. Try calling the spars company first. Klackospars.com. Good luck. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Emergency Tiller
I had to use the e tiller once on our 37+. The wheel had to be removed. Conditions were 45+ knots of wind and significant waves during a line squall coincidently between two major shoals. You will likely find the relatively short tiller too short for significant leverage. Removal of the pedestal is not practical or possible. If conditions were worse I would have had to use a line or lines to the primary winches. My advice service your steering to specs and try the e tiller before you need it in an emergency. If you can operate it on a 45 consider a piece of oak or something for additional leverage. Consider your auto pilot if it’s connected by a linear drive, not a wheel drive, and the conditions permit. If you need it once you will do anything to never need it twice! Len Mitchell Crazy Legs Midland On. Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List C&C 34- second propane locker
Dennis, I had a 1981 36 KCB and fabricated a second propane locker. The seat will be screw fastened from below. I used appropriate diameter and length cardboard sono tube as a template. I used glass and west system epoxy. I cut the hole with a jig saw if memory serves and used the cut out as a bottom for the locker. I also put a flange on top and a drain below to a small bronze thru hull above the water line. Then you just copy the SS piano hinge from the other locker. I did not pipe it, I would simply change tanks. The trick will be getting a big enough sono tube to fit your tanks, but it’s a really easy job! Long arms will allow you to reach the screws from the 6 inch plastic inspection ports. Let me know if you need more info. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List C&C 37+ -- Head Vented Loop?
My 37+ has a vented loop behind the vanity. I converted the port side water tank to holding for the Great Lakes. I installed a check valve in the aft sink but shut off the v birth sink when sailing using a 1/4 turn valve in the drain. It’s pretty easy to bury the rail in a blow. I try to reduce sail but it’s just too much fun. If you remove the stainless shower pole, plexi glass and the cabinetry you can access a few things but its unlikely you can get as far as the vented loop. The whole vanity is tabbed to the hull with 3 inch glass tape. Look over top of the vanity for the loop. It’s built in so you cannot service it easily. You can get to anything with a grinder and diamond blade if necessary. If you are ever up north I can show you what it looks like, changing out the aluminum holding tank for plastic was a real PIA. I recommend a shut off valve in every holding tank in case the joker valve fails and it will. Shitty job if it does. Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install 37+/40
Tom, I sent pics of the factory installed linear drive to you and or Gary more than a year ago. Let me see if I can find them again and you can verify. Len Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Masthead/anchor light
Bruce, the plastic tri light lens pretty much disintegrated but it was 5 years older than yours! I think the regs say an all round light installed where it can best be seen so there is some flexibility but remember a mast head light illuminates the top rigging too. At night in an anchorage where there aren’t other lights like a city background, there is no mistaking a yacht with a decent mast head light, even with a clear night sky and stars. I have seen solar garden lights mounted on spreaders before too but that isn’t a great solution on many levels. Maybe go up and see what yours looks like and then decide what you want to do or stand way back with some good binoculars. Do it once, do it right! Len Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Masthead/anchor light brand & model number?
Bruce, our 1989 37+ had an Aqua signal tri light with strobe. Last summer I replaced it with another aqua signal LED tri light, without the strobe. It works great and it’s visible from a great distance but there are many choices. Yours is probably an aqua signal but no guarantees. If it’s a light on a stick, it is probably the same as Ken’s. I would consider new rather than retrofitting an LED bulb, my plastic was brittle and crazed. I would also want to maximize visibility and minimize power draw which may be easier and more efficient going with a new fixture. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs Midland On. Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Garboard Plug
The way I have to look at it is based on being on the hard from October to May. If I was in the water like Josh 11/12 months or Bob 12/12, I wouldn’t even look at it. It wouldn’t make sense to me either and simply is not required. If you have ever checked on your boat and found water just under the floor boards or quite possibly just over the floor boards frozen solid you would understand why I have no problem properly installing one. It’s just peace of mind. I think this hull penetration is much less a risk than the others. Just count for yourself how many hull penetrations you have when you include instruments, stuffing box and traditional thru hulls. I believe stock I have 9 “holes” and the garboard plug is 10. It’s really a different mindset based on a northern climate. Anyway glad I finally did it after 20 years so we can travel where it’s warm without worry, that was the point of my original post lol. Len Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Garboard plug
Our bilge is shallow but not as shallow as a KCB model. I would install it low in the keel stub. It would be best as low as you can and mine may be 1/4-1/2 inch off the bottom and it works fine. I would normally vacuum and sponge out the bilge whenever it was above freezing but that was difficult to plan with a normal work schedule. I installed it with epoxy and faired the garboard drain so you would have to look hard to see it. I suppose you could use 5200 but I don’t like using it. I had epoxy cure (temperature) issues so it isn’t as smooth as it will be next April. I bought a nylon plug and kept the bronze plug as a spare. There is no downside to this project and that’s why I should have done it 20 years ago on our 1981 36 KCB too. Hopefully you can open the Dropbox photos. If not let me know. Len https://www.dropbox.com/s/5gwyjrpy2ee8xgo/Photo%202019-05-03%2C%204%2001%2020%20PM.jpg?dl=0 Sent from my iPad___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Winter storage & lingering decisions
I installed a garboard plug this fall after more than 20 years without. I have a dry bilge this winter and honestly regret not doing it sooner. It was only about $25 and it took about a half hour. Magnets were used to locate and I installed it flush with the keel stub. We are covered on the hard about 6 months a year up here! The Toronto boat show starts on Jan 17th, that’s half way to spring in the North. Len Mitchell 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Mechanical shaft seal
Josh, I kept my packing gland for future use but you need the 1-1/8 shaft brass packing gland, 4 clamps, a short piece of hose and appropriate sized and type packing. If you need a pic or a hose measurement let me know. I have self adhesive silicone tape and rigging tape on board as a possible repair kit for the bellows. I believe the life is longer in fresh water than salt but that may just be our shorter sailing season up north. I typically use less than half a tank of fuel in a year. When I need to replace my bellows or even the cutlass bearing I will go back to the OEM packing gland. It’s a great idea but it was unnecessary and relatively expensive considering the cost of 6 inches of rubber hose and some packing. And how long would you have to run the engine to get a gallon of water in your bilge from the packing gland dripping! Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Mechanical shaft seal options
Josh, Shawn is correct. The 6 inch or so piece of hose on the original packing gland. I would bet a high number of boats still have it in service. Mine was 20 years old when I replaced it and the outer rubber layer had cracks in it. There isn’t a lot of water pressure on it but it gets a little twisting force. Any original rubber hose should be gone by now. Len Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Force 10 battery holder.
I found a plastic battery holder online for my Force 10 stove. It was on amazon and a very inexpensive simple repair, good for another 30 years. Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Mechanical shaft seal options
How many boats still have the original $2 piece of rubber hose in service after 30 plus years? I bet the number is high. I haven’t heard of anyone sinking due to a shaft seal hose breakdown but why risk it for $2. Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List C&C37+ starboard tack / head
Bruce, the head valve and/or the anti siphon valve stop the flow of clear water into the head. Therefore both of them would have to fail. I would check your anti siphon valve if I were you. It may be plugged or not open far enough to let a little air in and stop the siphon effect. If you want to be sure, test it, take the sea water line off the head and if you only get a small amount of water it’s working correctly, if you get enough to fill the bowl and more it is not working correctly. The anti siphon valve isn’t easy to get to behind the vanity but it’s possible. Sometimes the little duck bill valve gets sticky and just needs some attention. I admit I do not shut the thru hulls when I leave the boat so I like the degree of redundancy. Len Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List C&C37+ starboard tack / head
Edd, BOTH the anti siphon valve and head check valve have to be malfunctioning as others have said to have the bowl fill with clear water. Black water would be a joker valve issue if you use your holding tank. We also have an issue with the V berth sink on a port tack filling with water so I installed a 1/4 turn drain valve because the thru hull valve is so difficult to access. It only happens 7.5-8.5 knots. All good now because she has been sitting on her steel cradle for a month!!! Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 89 C&C 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Great Lakes
Joe, while the whaler would work in the Erie Canal or the Trent Severn Canal system, it doesn’t give you much exposure to the Great Lakes. If you are on the Great Lakes and the weather picks up, it can get quite rough. The waves are close together and steep, without the large swells you get ocean sailing. Fortunately we usually get steady light winds in the summer. Georgian Bay, where we keep Crazy Legs is approx 120miles x 50miles. As a generalization, north is a mine field with shield rock and the south can be sandy beaches mostly covered in homes and cottages. I prefer the north. My invitation from the rendezvous has no expiry date. Pick a place you want to sail, I am sure you will find a C&C there. Use Google Earth and check it out, start with the North Chanel. You must have flown over the lakes at some point? Len Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Charger popping a breaker
One of the most useful diagnostic tools for me is a clamp on AC/DC ammeter. That may tell you what amperage it’s popping at. You put it on AC amps and just clamp it over one leg. Mine will hold the highest recorded amperage. I also use it to more accurately read how much DC the solar panel is pumping in so we rarely if ever plug into shore power. Hopefully it’s just a weak breaker, that’s pretty common. Len Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List 2020 Rendezvous
Josh, we will get to the rendezvous wherever the group decides it is. The only weekend we could not attend would be the weekend of Oct 3 due to our northern haul out. If you can find a location with a pavilion or building close by to get out of the weather, that would be a big plus as the rendezvous seems to be growing and rain can happen. Maybe we should look at a pot luck night so everyone could participate with something, the food was awesome again and well received. The gumbo, taco meatloaf and crab macaroni among other things were delicious. Gary was great in St Michaels for his local knowledge and the distillery tour was a big hit. Anyone within driving distance should consider it too. For Susanne and I, the people, boats and location make it worth a 10-12 hour drive. Thanks again to all who attended. Keep up the good work! Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Rendezvous
The rendezvous was another big success! Thanks to Josh and Carmelita for organizing and the rest of the attendees for contributing to the fun, refreshments, food etc. We really enjoyed the C&Cers and St Michaels and are already looking forward to next year! We had a blue crab picking, eating lesson and a tour of the Museum so we left a little late. I wanted to see the Bay Bridge and got further delayed by construction. So to Joe’s question ended up driving to the Alleghenys in Pa last night and grabbed a hotel room due to fog and number of deer on the hwy. we will be home tonight and it’s worth the long drive! Len & Susanne Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Smelly head
Blair, one thing worth mentioning is tank construction, some boats of that vintage including ours came with an aluminum holding tank. The PO used a chlorine odour product and the tank disintegrated along the bottom edge. If yours is plastic, that’s better than aluminum and I would check the inspection port because they can also crack. If the smell goes and comes back with the valve closed it’s probably not your tank. Sometimes a flashlight and small mirror are your best diagnostic tools. You should also have a vented loop you can check up high behind the head. Let us know how you make out. Len Mitchell Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
